Sierra GameChanger 165gr in 308 Winchester

welcome back folks I've got a 308 video planned for today and this is one I'm pretty excited about because Sierra has released a new hunting bullet called the Sierra game-changer the 308 diameter option is 165 grains and as far as I know these are the first like big game hunting bullets that are tipped that Sierra has put out I think they've got some varmint bullets that are tipped but they're game king line of bullets are generally soft points or hollow points so I'm excited to see how these guys shoot now in the hundred and sixty-five grain weight Sierra's got the spitzer soft point that i've got some videos on for 308 they've also got a hollow point boat tail that unfortunately I don't have any on hand to show you lined up against the the new game changer but what you can see in the picture here is this 165 grain game changer is nowhere close to the profile of the hundred sixty five grain spitzer game king right those are incredibly different bullet designs and reading the write-up over on their website they say that sierra re-engineered their legendary match king bullet into a hollow-point design for quick expansion and fitted it with a transparent green tip for ballistic uniformity inside the game changer features a unique construction that utilizes a special Leto alloys surrounded by a tough copper jacket that delivers excellent penetration and expansion at a variety of ranges and someone down in the comments of that blog post asked the questions are they bonded or just game kings with a polymer tip and the answer was they are not bonded but they are not standard game kings either they incorporate much heavier jackets and tougher cores so the reason I'm reading all this crap I guess the point I'm trying to get to get to here is I think this 165 grain game-changer is going to be closer to the 168 grain match King than it is to its game King brothers either the spitzer which we've already seen is a radically different bullet or the hollow point motel which i don't really have on hand to compare so the plan for today's video is to load up some of these guys and i want to shoot them in both my tikka bolt-action rifle and also my arrow precision ar10 we haven't seen the the tikka on the channel here in quite some time but I figured a new hunting bullet from Sierra is a good reason to bring it mothballs and get it back here on the channel so we're gonna shoot some groups and then I also want to shoot some of these guys into some ballistic gel to get you know some idea of how these guys are gonna expand so the powder for today has been a tough choice I've gone back and forth I've thought about 10 different powders for this video but I want to go with AR comp my final decision came down to AR comp and Margit I think both would be great choices for this application there are lots of great powders for this application I decided on AR comp because this is the beginnings of a load that I might actually hunt with sometimes the tests I do here on my channel are just for the fun of it I don't really have a an application in mind or a purpose that I'm going to use it for but this is a load that I might use I've got a bunch of AR comp back a few years ago when powder was extremely hard to find I really stockpiled this stuff so I'm thinking that if I find a good load at least for the next few years I've got plenty of powder on hand I won't have to worry about switching lot numbers and that sort of stuff so that was one good reason another this is an extremely temperature insensitive powder it's temperature stable from everything I've read so I thought it would be a decent choice this isn't really a super high velocity option the numbers are respectable probably pretty close to varga but if you really need maximum energy or a little bit flatter shooting load a slower powder might be a good a good choice on Sierra's load data for their 165 grain bullets Vitter vory in 550 gave them the the best velocities that might be a good choice and they had several spherical powders with good velocity like real Winchester 760 or H 414 H 380 those might help you squeak out a little bit more velocity ok so load data brand new bullet it's not listed on any of ceará sheets yet but I'm sure this bullet will either drop into the 165 group or maybe the 168 group because if this is based on the 168 grain match King and it has the same bearing surface as the as the 168 match king that might be the the safer way to think about it as you're out trying to get you're trying to figure out your load data right slightly heavier bullets your charge weights are generally generally gonna be just a touch lower so if you're nervous about loading for a bullet with no official load data then picking numbers for the 168 Sierra's might be a better choice now sierra doesn't have a or comp listed anyway so my source of load data for this was the Alliant website they've got the 175 green match King the 168 grain match King and the 155 green match King along with a whole bunch of other bullets so the way I went about it was I put all of their max charges onto a little chart here for 155 up to 180 grain bullets just to kind of get an idea of about where I should be the red dot is what I've chosen for my max charge we're a little bit below the trend line so I'm hoping we won't run into any pressure science today and should be keeping things pretty safe but still at the same time getting up there pretty close so 42.0 grains is going to be our max charge for this test the primers we're using are the CCI number 200 large rifle primers and four brass I'm going to be breaking in a new set of brass here one of my supporters over at patreon Eric bought a big huge batch of a thousand pieces of this IMI match brass and was kind enough to send me a hundred of them I am I is an Israeli military weapons company and I've always heard very good things about their about the IMI brass kind of like Lake City so I'm looking forward to giving this stuff a try I've tried a little bit of AI on my brass here and there but I've never really had kind of a pristine set to use like this Eric who sent it to me said it holds up better in his gas gun than anything else he's tried so that's good news because so far my ar10 has been a little bit tough on brass so hopefully this stuff will be resilient now in 308 when you're talking about military brass you've always got to keep case capacity in mind because the difference is between you know something like Lake City and commercial cases federal Winchester whoever the difference can be big and it can affect your charges a lot and get you into trouble as far as like seeing pressure signs early and that sort of stuff the good news is that the Alliant data that we're using as our baseline several of their loads use IMI brass so I'm hoping our 42 grain max charge will still be good even if this brass is on the lower end of case capacity once we get these things fired probably in our next video we'll we'll go ahead and measure the case capacity and compare it to some others but that's the brass reason for today so if we condense all this ramble I've been doing into some load data here's what we're shooting the overall length I'm going with is 2.8 to 0 as I mentioned I'm evaluating this as a potential hunting load so I want to be able to magazine feed these guys these are the tikka magazines they are not very generous when it comes to overall length like 2.8 to 5 is about all you can squeeze in here on the ar-10 side of things I'm using Magpul pmags they're the same way just a little bit over 2.8 and things started getting a little bit tight so I was checking an earlier 2.8 2-0 can squeeze into both so that's what I've decided to go with I hope these bullets are pretty tolerant when it comes to jump because they're jumping a bunch in both of the guns a 2.8 to 0 inch overall length results in 185 thousandths of jump to the lands in my JP ar10 308 barrel and in the tika it's two hundred thousandths of jump that actually ends up it ends up being two point one inches cartridge-based ogive when I used my Hornady bullet comparator so two point one inches cartridge-based ogive two point eight to zero ish on the overall length measured to the tip I was a little bit surprised the length of these bullets varies a pretty decent amount like I just measured six or eight of them and got numbers from one point four zero or two inches up to one point four zero eight inches if I measured more that might grow a little bit I don't know but it looks like there's gonna be six or eight thousands of difference and that's going to directly affect that overall length when I'm measuring to the tip the good news though is I measured a bunch of them from bullet base to ogive and they all measure point six eight point six eight six so bullet based ogive very consistent but the tips not so much the reason I found that a little bit surprising is like the Hornady bullets even their older SSTs or the newer al DX bullets I found to be extremely consistent I don't really think that's a critical thing like I this doesn't make me think these are gonna be inaccurate bullets we always shoot hollow point match bullets with weird me Platts that measure a whole bunch of difference so it's not something I'm freaked out about it's just that I wanted to bring up so step one of this process is gonna be to go ahead and run this brass through a fooling sizing die so let's do that now one thing I did notice was at least a couple of the flash holes had a little bit of a booger I tried to get a picture of one hopefully I'm showing it to you on the screen now so each one of these pieces here before I run them through the sizing die I'm going to take my Lyman flash hold deburring tool just just a twist or two and that's and that's enough not really taking off any material just hitting any burrs that might be present some people yell at me like the way this tool is supposed to be used is you adjust this stop so that you know it's up at the case mouth and you do them all to the same depth and stuff but I just go in with a very light touch and if I don't feel any burrs there I call it good enough one thing I'm noticing is that apparently this eye on my brass has got small flash holes the tip of this tool is just barely just barely fitting through the flash hold tell you what this is one that definitely has a little bit of a booger let me see what it feels like yeah it was very light and very small like it that came right out I'm like I bet that would have come out on its own the next time I tumbled this brass with with some steel pins but yeah black back to the flash hole size this tool is barely fitting through there it is fitting through there but it's just barely fitting through there and I don't think I've ever seen that on any other brand of brass you grab something else and we'll compare the flash holes here tell you what decap this piece of Lapua yeah so I've got a piece of Lapua a piece of federal and this I am I and it definitely has got a slightly smaller flash hole I'll try and get a picture and show you here not by much I'm hoping that like the the decapping pins in the yeah see the decapping pin fits right through there no problem so I don't think it gonna be an issue it's just a little bit smaller than I've seen another brass all right let's get the let's get the resizing guy in here now with brand new brass like this all I want to do is just make sure the necks are sized the way I want so if they got dinged up in shipping or maybe they're not consistent just trying to make them a little bit uniform so I'm screwed my sizing died down until it touches the shell holder I'm gonna back it out a little bit cuz I definitely don't want to both the shoulder any I did take a piece of this brass and put it in each of my guns and it goes right in the chamber no problem so we don't we don't need to do any sizing to the body or bump the shoulder and usually in situations like this the the body of the case isn't really going to touch the die very much anyway so what that means is I can use a dry neck Lube like this is Redding Imperial dry neck Lube put that guy down in there a little bit and that should be all the Lube we need now first piece here I want to get a headspace measurement so I can make sure we're not bumping the shoulder one point six to zero let's go ahead and run through that did go in a little tough you can actually see with the dry neck Lube that the dye the neck portion of the dye didn't quite make it down all the way to that neck that neck shoulder Junction or whatever yep same headspace number so we definitely didn't hit the shoulder but I want to go down just a little bit more because I want to hit that whole neck if it's possible this guy he's going up in there pretty tough but I think it's okay so we're a little bit we're getting a little bit lower on that neck now which is good and I guess if we wipe that away we could actually see it properly see the dye just didn't quite make it all the way go down a little bit more okay let's try that shoulders still not getting touched and still didn't quite get down as low as I'd like alright this should do it we're pretty close and I'm switching to a different piece of brass every time I make an adjustment you don't want to take one piece of brass and resize it 14 times while you're screwing around with your die because every time that neck is getting is getting worked so yep we're still not perfect but I think this is good enough pretty darn close yeah I'm liking that one now the advantage of the dry neck Lube is that it'll it just wipes right off pretty easy and paranoid people like myself who are always worried about contaminating their powder with a greasy wet Lube or whatever don't have to worry about it dry stuffs no big deal wipe a little bit off tap out a little bit that might be inside and you're ready to load now just because I'm paranoid and I know my tika has the tighter of the two chambers just gonna double check and make sure that this brass seems to be chambering okay and it is yep fitting no problem in the tea coat so that's it I just need to go through and flash hold deburr then resize the other 45 and we'll be ready for priming so when I try to get that picture of the flash holes being smaller in this brass it's not coming across on cameraman I feel like I'm taking crazy pills but I promise flash holes and this stuff a little bit smaller but I grabbed so the biggest medias yeah the medias decapping pin I know of is the Li this is a spare decapping pin for the Li universal and it goes over no problem and it goes through there absolutely no if I can find it there it is yep see no problem no problem whatsoever so the flash holes won't be an issue there are some cases like in 6.5 Creedmoor Lapua makes a small primer brass in that cartridge where the flash holes are so small that some decapping pins won't fit I don't know if that's a problem with any 308 brass but at least none that I've used so I'm just putting a little chamfer on the case mouth here with my Lyman chamfer tool and the next step will be priming so I did check the length of this brass and it is perfect it's right between trim length and max length most of them right at 2.00 eight to two point zero one zero and our max length is two point zero one five so this is just about how I how I like it because after a firing or two it's going to be long enough so that we get to trim it and get them all exactly where we want the last new batch of 308 I used was Starline and those came very short and it was annoying like I wanted them a little bit longer so I could trim them all just the way I wanted and it took a bunch of firings to get them to that point shouldn't be a problem here with the IMI alright next step will be primers so I'm installing the primers with my RCBS hand priming tool not much to show you here pretty straightforward stuff other than to say that these the IMI brass the primer pockets feel great they seat in there nice and tight and every single piece has felt very consistent so far so it's all good man it's time to weigh some powder so I'm making progress here getting our charges weighed out I decided to just use my RCBS Uniflow powder measure throwing the charges just a little bit light and then trickling them right up a lot of times with an extruded powder I'll use the the Lyman Gen 6 powder dispenser but a our comp is a very short cut extruded powder here's a pan full of it next to some bargain bargain is on the right and a our comp is on the left you can see it's a little bit it's a little bit smaller cut than Margit but var gets not really a particularly long cut powder either but in this case powder measure works just as quick as the Lyman Gen 6 I'm pleasantly surprised by our case Phil here I thought 42 grains of this stuff might not really fill the case very well and we'd have a whole bunch of excess case capacity but doesn't look like that's going to be the case this 42 grain charge our max charge is coming right up to the bottom of the neck and with our 2.8 to 0 overall length it's gonna be just about perfect all right let's get our bullets eating die dialed in here and we can hurry up and get to the range I'm using Hornady custom grade dies these are they're inexpensive die sets that I've been having a lot of good luck with lately in 6.5 Creedmoor and 2 to 4 Valkyrie and this is actually my first time using this set in 308 so I've got a piece of brass in the shell holder we raise the RAM and then you screw the die down until you feel it touch these do include a crimp so that's what you feel is the the crimp hitting the case mouth and then we back it out by a full turn and tighten down the lock ring we're not going to be doing any crimping today so this will be the the setting where it stays so let me back out the seeding stem I am using the their micro just seeding stem which is about an additional 25 bucks and then turns it into a micro adjust dye and makes it really easy to use so what I did is I just bought one of them and then I switch them between the different dyes so let's see that barely touched it let's go ahead and seat it down in there a little bit more okay that got us started so my goal is to point one inches with the Hornady bullet comparator so got this guy started and it looks like we are exactly 250 thousandths too long right now so let's try and go 240,000 s that'll still leave us 10 thousandths long 50 100 150 240 so let's see how accurate the micro just stim is on an adjustment that long yep two point one one nine so we're 19,000 s'long rather than two point one one zero so nine thousandths on and adjustment that big I can live with that so let's go ahead and seat another one and make sure our numbers are lining up I am hearing just a little bit of crunch as I'm seating so these are just a little bit compressed which can be good for accuracy right a nice full case is a good thing but they're not super crunchy two point one one eight two point one one seven that's the same number we had before right so let's go ahead and go down 17 there's ten fifteen okay it's still mm long now the nine thousandths of error we saw on the big adjustment was probably due to the charge getting compressed once you start compressing loads it can start messing with your numbers just a touch okay looks like we're just right on the money with that guy here's the other one it is also perfect go ahead and seat the other three in this first row okay these are coming out just about perfect there's a two point one zero zero five so it's just a half a thousands long two point one zero one and yeah this one's also as kind of bouncing back and forth between two point one 0:05 and 2.10 one perfect now if we measure out to the tip there's a two point eight two three two point eight one eight two point eight two six you can see quite a bit of variation here with these bullets but we've already looked at the cartridge-based ogive number and they're all extremely close so all of this variation is coming from the tips now it's coming a little bit worried like that guys two point eight to nine will that fit in my magazine that's what we need to check start with the tikka magazine yeah it looks like it will I tell you what I'll just go ahead and throw all five of them in here yep totally good to go with the tikka they went in no problem now the PMAG yeah I think we're good definitely wouldn't want to go any longer but I think we're okay there so that really covers it folks I've got some more charges to weigh out and it's more bullets to see if anything exciting comes up I'll turn the camera back on but otherwise I'll just see you guys out on the range all right folks we are starting out with my tikka t3 light bolt-action rifle it's been so long since I've shot it that I don't even remember its specs so I'll put them up here on the screen for you as the t3 light name suggests this is a very light rifle and it kicks like a mule even in little old 308 so I'm shooting off a cheap little generic bipod and this guy's a handful so you're gonna see it bouncing all over the place during recoil so if you want to leave comments about how I'm flinching you can do so down in the comment section below we're shooting at 100 yards I've got my caldwell ballistic precision cronograph out there I'm hoping it's going to give us some good readings it is pretty close to dark I'm shooting after work and it's the middle of September the days are getting shorter so we're a little bit short on time but I think I've got enough time to make sure the barrel stays cool speaking of that I did shoot a couple ciders I shot three ciders through the gun just to warm up the barrel a little bit double-check my zero this is a 24 power Viper vortex PST scope we're shooting at 100 yards so let's see if these guys will group all right so I'm pretty darn happy with that group to start out with so I loaded up a fair number of ciders cuz I was mounting this scope on here needed to zero this guy and same thing with the ar-10 so I've already shot a few of these all the way up to 42 grains and didn't see any pressure problem so I don't expect any problems alright moving up to 41 point 1 grains okay so according to my caldwell cronograph we just lost like 20 feet per second I don't trust it I'll tell you what I'll do later on I'm gonna load up some more of these shoot them off-camera with my magneto speed credit graph and those are the velocity numbers I'll give you there this Caldwell chronograph it gives me weird readings right at dark and that really sucks because it screws up my videos when I need to shoot them after work tell you it's been a while since I've shot Atika I really missed this trigger man these teeka's have awesome triggers this is an amazing deer hunting rifle and I'd recommend one to anybody but I've got too many amazing deer rifles right now so I'm thinking I really should reburial this guy put a nice heavy barrel on it that's threaded so I can shoot with my suppressor and get it into a nice stock that'll be easier to shoot off of bags but I don't think I would change the darn thing about the trigger adding a trigger to this setup just seems like it would be a big old waste all right next up 41.4 grains all right so that group opened up a good bit so it's taken me over 30 minutes to shoot these first 15 shots but even still the barrel is getting a little bit warm I'm trying to be careful about barrel heat here okay a little bit of time to cool down so let's get back to it helps to put the magazine in there now let's get to it man this stupid barrel heats up so fast I got a reburial a stupid gun but it seems to be wanting to throw them a little bit high maybe our last charge here 42.0 grains things will settle down maybe it'll group a little bit high I don't know let's shoot him and find out all right that's a good way to finish things off right definitely our best group and our highest charge at that outstanding stuff good good stuff this is look like a good shooting bullet so far to me all right let's switch over to the ar-10 I hope we've got enough daylight left all right so we're just going to brighten up the camera and pretend that we've got enough daylight left hopefully the target camera is still showing you what you need to see the good news though is that we can shoot a little bit faster here with our JP ar-10 barrel it's a nice heavy barrel it's pretty resilient when it comes to barrel heat so far in my testing the biggest problem so far is that it is a brass destroyer I've had a lot of problems so far getting the gas settings just right so that it won't destroy brass all right let's see if it'll shoot now one thing I should mention I haven't warm this gun up at all and I don't really even have time to do so so totally cold barrel tell you what I'm pretty happy with that for a completely cold barrel not too bad all right moving on 41.1 so that group was pretty ugly and it didn't lock the bolt back I've been screwed around with the gas before we started shooting groups here trying to get this thing to stop tearing up brass so I don't know why that one didn't lock the bolt back but the first group did but I've got the gas set to where it just barely locks it back so not a huge surprise but what was a surprise was that super crappy group like that was ugly yeah our barrel is barely getting warmed at this point so can't really blame it on barrel heat I don't know that's weird so moving right along 41.4 grains is next okay next up 41.7 all right don't screw it up don't screw it up holy crap that felt like a good shot man that is insane four of them right there together and then one like an inch out okay last up is 42 grains I'll tell you one thing this 24 power vortex Strike Eagle scope is really doing well here right at dark like it is extremely dark but I'm seeing my dots really really well okay 42 grains all right finished off with a pretty crappy group hey at least I got them all shot before dark so tomorrow evening we're going to shoot through ballistic gel and I need to load up some more rounds because now I need to get velocity data with my magneto speed tomorrow evening as well so normally I would say let's get back to the bench but let's get back to tomorrow evening and look at some ballistic gel all right so my gel testing was a bit of a fiasco I didn't shoot these at short range some of my previous gel tests I actually put the gel downrange but this was I was about ten yards from the blocks I shot him with my tikka which means our velocity was about twenty seven hundred and thirty five feet per second with these guys two of the shots exited the block just because I wasn't aligned very well but the I was able to recover three of them and they look beautiful really nice expansion and looks to be very nice weight retention none of the cores separated from the jacket at all they just mushroomed out beautifully so I'm extremely happy with the expansion of these guys this is exactly what I was hoping to see let me weigh them really quick this one is 136 grains that one's 129 grains and that guy is 135 grains so they shed about 30 grains that is really good stuff now I was using the synthetic gel from clear ballistics the penetration numbers I showed you between 25 and 31 inches I don't know if that's good or bad I just most of the high-velocity rifle rounds that I shoot seem to penetrate a similar depth into that gel they generally go halfway to three-quarters of the way through that second block at least you know bullets that hold together like this generally go about that far so it's all good man I'm gonna feel extremely confident hit in the woods with these should get the job done okay next let's have a look at some brass these are the 42 grain maximum charge and these were fired in the tikka so these look outstanding nice round primers definitely no pressure signs to speak of they look excellent so I would feel okay maybe going a little bit hotter but we are we're already a little bit compressed but there's definitely room for a little bit more powder in there now here's the problem child over here in the ar-10 these are actually a couple of the lower loads and that one looks mostly okay but this guy right here you'll see a raised up burn a little bit of smear at the extractor a lot of the brass did this and this is just you know my a r10 doing its thing there you go there's a couple more that got banged up a touch so the next video with the r10 we're gonna be using my JP silent captured spring i ordered the parts to convert it for AR 10 use so by the time i make the next video with the ar-10 i'll have those parts and will be able to try a heavier buffer maybe that will help with the brass damage because i've been all over the map with gas settings and it just isn't helping at all okay now let's have a look at the groups I'm pretty happy with the performance out of the tikka these are what good 308 groups look like on my channel I have always struggled with 308 I've always struggled with this tikka and now I'm struggling with my a r10 308 is just my Achilles heel and we just cannot seem to get the precision out of 308 that we get out of other cartridges here on my channel so while these groups may not be incredibly good they're pretty good for around here the best group was the last 142 grains that was the point 8 9 5 inch group I definitely want to shoot this load again and verify it and go a little bit higher maybe get a little bit more velocity 20 750 feet per second should certainly be attainable with this combination you know with this powder but overall I'm pretty pleased here with the tikka I'll tell you what we need to do with the tikka is when I do the video on this dude the limb saver barrel D resonator this might be the perfect gun to play around with this guy on never really shot as good as I'd like and we might see some huge benefits from a little bit of tuning I bet we would so moving on to the ar-10 groups things were a bit of a mess I mean we started out okay that first group was a 1.0 9 2 inch group and that 4th group you know it tried to put 4 shots through the same hole and then through that one way down low we're just struggling with this gun so far it's still a new barrel a new upper that we put together and our accuracy has been disappointing tearing up brass has been very disappointing so this is just more of the same for this gun so I'm not gonna dwell too much here on the groups out of this gun velocity was a little bit lower about 2700 what did I 2705 is what I called it I didn't shoot enough rounds over the magneto speed to give you any data on standard deviation and stuff an extreme spread I only shot enough to get just basically give you an idea of what sort of velocities we were looking at because well I just didn't have enough bullets to to waste them shooting over the chronograph so two and a half inch shorter barrel and about 30 feet per second difference that didn't seem too bad now one really good thing is we're not done with the game changers I also picked up two boxes of the six point five millimeter these are 130 grain errs so I want to shoot some of these in 6.5 Creedmoor and in the 6.5 Grindle so if you're disappointed by the accuracy in this video and you don't believe me that yeah these are these are actually pretty decent 308 groups for my guns well come back for the six point five millimeter videos and I I think the group's probably gonna be a good bit tighter or at least that's what I'm hoping now on top of this 30 caliber and six point five millimeter that we've seen here they've also got a six millimeter that is 90 grains 277 that is 140 grains a 284 a 7 millimeter that is 165 grains and I think that's about it I'll tell you what I'm hoping they'll do is if they if they would make a 22 caliber start off with the 95 grain match King chopped the tip off of that guy and turn it into a game changer that would make for a pretty cool hunting bullet for the 2 to 4 Valkyrie we'll just have to see what else they come up with as time goes on so that's about it folks pretty good first impression here with the game changer I absolutely love the way these bullets expanded in the gel I'll be gel testing the six point five millimeter as well once I get to those videos and over in that caliber we'll be able to do high velocity tests with the with the 6.5 Creedmoor and then maybe see how it does at low velocity out of the Grindle as well because that was another question that I saw answered over on the Sierra bullets blog when they announced this bullet someone asked what the minimum expansion velocity is and they said it was 1800 feet per second so these guys are tough you got to push them to get them to expand properly so maybe if you're a 300 blackout shooter or something like that yeah this this bullets not for you and I suspect it may be the same story out of the Grendel or maybe with the Grendel we won't get you know nearly as much expansion I don't know we'll see I'm looking forward to finding out and those videos should be coming pretty soon here over the next couple weeks speaking of videos man it has been a huge challenge to get videos put out over the last couple just because of rain like last weekend it rained Saturday and Sunday and lots of evenings and it's been raining so I apologize for the pretty big gap between my last video in this video but I'm blaming the weather so that's it folks thanks for joining me today and I'll see you next time

Channel: Johnny's Reloading Bench

Views: 164,281

Rating: 4.89644 out of 5

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Id: 3UnmfK_w9yI

Length: 40min 27sec (2427 seconds)

Published: Sun Sep 16 2018