-Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more
of the best of Europe -- and this time, we're filling up
on some unforgettable culture. Holy cannoli! We're in Sicily. Thanks for joining us. ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ To better understand
what you see here in Sicily, you need to understand
its story. Over the last 2,500 years,
the island of Sicily has been ruled by Greeks,
Romans, Arabs, Normans and Spaniards
before becoming part of Italy. The island's complicated past
makes it distinct from Italy. It's got its own cuisine,
a more festive lifestyle, people who are Sicilian first
and Italians second. In this episode filled
with Sicilian delights, we'll go backstage for
some traditional puppetry, stay on a farmhouse B&B
and enjoy a gourmet local feast. We'll explore an ancient quarry
and venture to the Isle of Mozia with its ancient
Carthaginian ruins. We'll ponder the meaning of life
in an unforgettable crypt before sipping cappuccino
with a Capuchin. The island of Sicily is
the southernmost part of Italy. We start in Siracusa,
visit Cefalù, stop in Palermo, sail to the tiny isle of Mozia,
before finishing in Trapani. Like so much of Sicily, Syracuse
has ancient Greek origins. The great city-states
of Greece were expansive, searching the Mediterranean
for more fertile lands. Athens and Sparta dominated,
but lots of other Greek cities, like Corinth, were
establishing colonies as well. These new settlements created
a broader Greek culture known as Magna Graecia,
or "Greater Greece." Greek culture flourished here
in Syracuse. Founded in 732 B.C.
by the Corinthians, it grew to become
an even greater, more important city than Athens. In fact, Syracuse eventually
defeated the Athenians in battle in this very bay. The Temple of Apollo, marking
the center of old Syracuse, was the first stone
Greek temple in Sicily. It dates from 600 B.C. And Syracuse nurtured
the brightest minds of the ancient world,
like Archimedes. The inventions of this scientist-physicist-
philosopher-genius from the 3rd century B.C. helped his hometown
defend itself from invasions. Modern Siracusa
sprawls across the mainland, but the city was born on
the fortified island of Ortygia. That's where you'll find
many of the ancient sites and most of the medieval charm. With its shabby-chic vibe, delightful back lanes and breezy
sea views, old Siracusa is, for me, the most enjoyable urban
environment anywhere in Sicily. Just a generation ago, Ortygia was a rough
and unwelcoming zone, almost empty of commerce, and today, stoked by
its influx of tourism, it has a bohemian energy
that fills it with a joyful and relaxed ambiance. The long and narrow side lanes
are part of a street plan dating way back
to ancient times. Balconies festooned with laundry
are reminders that this is still
a real neighborhood. I always say, "If you like
Italy, you'll love Sicily," and I especially feel that
in its markets. -[ Speaking Italian ] -Each morning, this street hosts a lively fish
and produce market. -[ Speaking Italian ]
-This shop is jam-packed for its beloved specialty --
jam-packed panini. -[ Speaking Italian ] -To be sure we maximize the delights
of our Sicilian experience, I'm joined by my friend and
fellow tour guide Alfio Di Maro, and Alfio is expert at connecting
with the local characters. -[ Speaking Italian ]
-Nice. -Buongiorno, Angelo.
-Ciao! Ciao! Come stai? -[ Speaking Italian ]
The swordfish... Angelo always has
the best swordfish. -[ Speaking Italian ]
-He just caught it. This was used until not long ago to make needles
to mend the nets. -Oh, for knitting
the nets together? -Yeah.
And even to do knitting needle. -This is really remarkable.
-It's very resistant. -Look at that.
-Very resistant. -Ancora. Wow. -When you have a fresh fish
like this, the meat is delicious. -Fantastic.
Angelo. -Si?
-Buon lavoro. -[ Conversing in Italian ] -Sicily is brutally hot
in the summer. I like to visit
in spring or fall, and even in April --
when we're here -- a stop for a drink at the kiosk
can be really refreshing. What's this?
-It's a specialty...Ciao! Ciao.
-Ciao. Buonasera. -Due seltz limone e sale. -So what is the name again?
-It's a refreshing drink. It's seltzer, lemon, and salt. -Okay.
Good. -Ideal in the summer.
-Molto rinfrescante -- very refreshing. Then, with a spoon, salt. -Rinfrescante. -Rinfrescante.
-Perfetto! -All right. Grazie. Mmm. Nearby, the facade
of the cathedral provides quite a contrast. Built in the 18th century, it was inspired by the great
baroque churches of Rome but amped up with a Sicilian
architectural razzle-dazzle. The apostles Peter and Paul
greet you at street level, while Mary blesses
all from above. Stepping inside, you see
the church is a lot like Sicily itself --
a layer cake of civilizations. It was built into an ancient
Greek temple. The temple's 2,500-year-old
colonnade survives as part of the church's walls, and because a pagan temple
had no transepts, neither does this church. The fine workmanship
of the capitals survives from ancient times. ♪♪ In Sicily, you hear the same
basic story of the parade of civilizations
over and over -- ancient temple, church,
mosque, church. Here in Syracuse, this was
originally a Greek temple built to honor Athena. Then, 1,000 years later
with Byzantine rule, the temple was made
into a church. Next, in the 9th century, the Arabs sweep in from
just over there, North Africa -- Christians out,
Muslims in, and it became a mosque. Then it's a church again
as the Normans from France conquer Sicily
in the 11th century. After a huge earthquake
hit in 1693, the cathedral was rebuilt in today's supercharged
baroque style. Whew. The Cathedral Square,
or Piazza Duomo, is a mishmash
of architectural styles. It serves as a delightful stage upon which the story
of this community plays out. Its graceful, semicircular
design is a baroque trick, designed to give the feeling that this is a theater
for life in this community. It's the gathering place
of the town, a magnet for all generations. ♪♪ On one of the nearby
narrow streets, Alfio is treating me
to something I haven't seen since I was a kid. Puppetry is a strong tradition
here in Sicily. This theater company puts on
nearly nightly performances. Its young troupe of puppeteers
takes their art seriously. The marionettes are lovingly
made and true to tradition. -[ Speaking Italian ] -The puppeteers skillfully
bring the characters to life
as the plot unfolds. -[ Speaking Italian ] -The melodrama of an old
Sicilian tale fills the theater, captivating its audience
as this folkloric art form has for centuries. The ancient Greek city
of Syracuse is long gone, but wandering through
its scant remains in the city's
archaeological park, you pick up hints
of its former power. At its peak,
around the 5th century B.C., Greek Syracuse had roughly
the same population it has today --
over 100,000 people. It was the dominant military
and economic power in this corner
of the Greek world. With a commanding harbor view, the ancient Greek theater
originally sat 15,000. While it dates from 500 B.C.,
it's still in use today. The terrace above the theater
functioned as a grand lobby covered by a wooden roof
and decorated with fine statues. The waterfall
is part of an aqueduct -- a man-made, underground river
carved out of the rock -- allowing freshwater
to flow 15 miles from a mountain
spring into the city. The stone that built ancient
Syracuse was quarried on-site by enslaved prisoners of war. Today, that quarry is overgrown
with lush vegetation, and, while it's called
the "Garden of Paradise," it's filled
with tragic memories. ♪♪ It's easy to forget
when marveling at these ancient theaters and temples
that slave labor quarried and carried the stones
that made it all possible. Back then, many soldiers
willingly fought to the death because they knew that life
as a prisoner of war -- or slave -- was even worse. The quarry was like a huge
underground concentration camp, a hellish place where slaves lived out their miserable
lives cutting stone. Gazing at the one tower of stone
still standing, imagine that this was a pillar
helping support the roof of a giant man-made cavern. That roof collapsed
with an earthquake in 1693. A surviving quarry cavern is
nicknamed "the Ear of Dionysus." Venturing in, you can still see
the chisel lines showing how it was cut over the
generations from the top down. ♪♪ A car is handy for exploring
Sicily. Once in the countryside,
traffic is sparse. Autostratas are top quality
and make getting around faster and less stressful
than smaller roads. While most of Italy's
super freeways come with tolls, Sicily's are generally
toll-free -- one of many economic subsidies from the more
prosperous northern Italy. We're heading across the island,
and we're breaking our journey near the south coast
at an agriturismo -- an upscale B&B nestled in
an olive and almond orchard. Here in Italy, working farms
with rooms to rent are called "agriturismo." Across Europe, small farms
supplement their income by renting rooms to travelers seeking a rural refuge
from fast-paced urban scenes. The Mandranova estate comes with
a rustic-but-elegant dinner, offering a great chance
for travelers to share stories from the road. And we cap our day enjoying
a convivial atmosphere where, under
palm trees and stars, our host enjoys sharing
his olives and almonds while getting to know
his guests. Our next stop is Cefalù, beautifully situated
on the north coast. Cefalù is Sicily's
most romantic port town. With a golden crescent beach and sitting safely
under its dramatic rocks -- still capped by a fortress -- Cefalù cradles its past
in a way that's easy to enjoy. Since the town was founded,
its streets have lined up with the prevailing wind
to catch the cooling breeze, and to this day,
laundry flaps in that breeze. And for a thousand years --
whether ruled by Arabs, Normans, French, or Spanish -- the women of the town
gathered here on these very stones
to scrub their laundry. In Sicily, there's history
everywhere. In the 11th century, Sicily's Arab rulers were booted
out by the Normans from France. This cathedral is Norman. Built to double as a fortress,
it's crenulated like a castle, and it comes complete with slits
for shooting arrows. Inside, columns that
2,000 years ago supported a pagan Roman temple
now support Norman arches. They lead to a serene mosaic
portrayal of an Orthodox Christ. During this complicated age, it was intentionally Eastern
in style to help make Norman rule easier
for locals to accept. Here in Cefalù, like anywhere
in the Mediterranean, early evenings
bring out a parade of people. It's like cruising without cars, a multigenerational scene
from families to grandparents. Old-timers remain part
of the action. And anyone's attention
can be hijacked by tempting window displays. All this strolling stokes
my appetite, and we're ready
for some Sicilian cuisine. Here, surrounded
by the Mediterranean, menus are rich in seafood,
and courses come in waves. Thank you. After the appetizers,
or antipasti, the first course,
or primi piatto, is generally pasta. We're having spaghetti
with clams, risotto with mussels
on flatbread and the Sicilian favorite --
pasta with sardines. The second course,
secondo, is our entrée, and no surprise,
it's more seafood -- fresh local shrimp, calamari, and swordfish rolls, and, while I'm certainly
enjoying my calamari, I'm not above
a little shrimp thievery to make sure I enjoy
everything Cefalù has to offer. One of Sicily's quirkiest
charms -- nearby in the city
of Palermo -- is in a crypt below
its Capuchin monastery. The Capuchins, a branch
of the Franciscan order, have a passion for reminding
people of their mortality. Historically,
when their brothers died, their bones were saved
and put on display. The Capuchins of Palermo took
this tradition a step further: Rather
than just saving bones, they preserved the bodies
in their entirety. Back in the 16th century, the monks here found
that this particular crypt preserved bodies
almost miraculously. They later realized
that they could actually charge wealthy parishioners
for the privilege of being mummified here
with their brothers, and this helped raise money
to support their monastery. This maze of corridors contains
thousands of skeletons and mummies dressed in
the clothing of their choice. Each area features
a different group: monks in their brown robes, women with their favorite
dresses, priests with their vestments, soldiers still in uniform,
and children looking almost as
if taking a long nap. The oldest body --
Brother Sylvester -- has been hanging here
since 1599. One of the brothers gave me
a lovely little sermon. He explained that our time
on Earth is short and what really matters
is what comes next. These "bodies without souls,"
as they call them, are a reminder
that we're all mortal. For this monk, being with all
these bodies brought him great joy and peace, as it caused him to focus
not on our earthly existence but on eternity. Today, the public is welcome
to wander thoughtfully through these halls
of haunting faces, which seem determined
to tell us a truth that perhaps we've yet to learn. I'm not quite ready
for a Capuchin crypt, but I could go for a Capu-ccino, and I'm joined
by my Capuchin friend -- who, in good Franciscan style, enjoys embracing
the moment as well. -[ Speaking Italian ]
-So, we have the same colors? -Yes, same color.
This... -Brown...
-Brown. -...and the white in the robe.
-Yes. -So, we got the white
and the brown. Enjoy. Sicily comes with dramatic
coastal scenery, and we're heading west. Distances are short, and the island is dotted
with fascinations. The shallow lagoon surrounding
the island of Mozia is ideal for extracting salt
from the sea, and for thousands of years, locals have labored
in salt pools like these as part of
this essential industry. A short boat ride
gives us a closer look. -So, Alfio,
this is, like, a mountain of salt with tile
to protect it from the wind. -It is.
It is. -Salt must have been
a very important industry. -It was a vital industry. In ancient times, if you
didn't have salt, you'd die. There was no refrigeration, and the food was preserved
mainly by salt. -How long did they have
salt pools here? -The Carthaginians,
when they came here, they established this salt
flats in the 8th century B.C. -Until today --
they're still getting the salt. -Yeah, as we can see. -We're heading for
the tiny island of Mozia. Along with salt, this lagoon
provided a safe haven for ancient mariners. In fact, 800 years
before Christ, Carthaginians settled here. Today, this island is strewn
with the scant but evocative ruins of
a once-powerful trading outpost. Why is Mozia so historic? -Mozia was the base of the
Carthaginians in western Sicily. They came in
the 8th century B.C. and did many trading posts
around the Mediterranean, and Sicily sits in the middle. Sicily is the stepping stone. -Perfect place to establish
a trade center. -Yes. -Now the Carthaginians came
about 800 years before Christ. How long did they stay here? -They stayed for 400 years and eventually were destroyed
by the Greeks. -We don't know very much
about Carthage -- why? Because they lost all the wars? -They lost the important wars. We often say, "the winners
write history." In this case, if you lose a war,
you lose your right to say your side of the story. -Nearby, the town of Trapani,
with its fortified promontory, marks the westernmost point
of Sicily. Its port is a shipping
and transportation hub. The old town is a salty,
pedestrian-friendly delight with plenty
of handy accommodations and fun places to eat. Trapani offers a chance
to get to know a workaday Sicilian town with
a charming historic quarter. The town's main streets,
lined with elegant facades, provide a showcase
for today's urban scene. In the evening, locals enjoy
a lazy passeggiata, which culminates with a sunset
on the ramparts. A gondola carries us above Trapani to the mountaintop
fortress town of Erice. This stony town was protected
by an imposing fortress, recalling a time
when its strategic location was worth the climb. The stout medieval gate leads into
a remarkably preserved old town. While a touristy shell today,
the town is fun to explore. The church,
like everything else here, is a stony gray,
but as we step inside, a late-19th-century
interior dazzles visitors with the over-the-top frilliness so typical
of neo-Gothic architecture. The main street leads
to a humble main square, and hiding deep in Erice
is the venerable pastry shop of Signora Grammatico. Her display case tempts all
who enter with its vast array of Sicilian sweets,
including, of course, enticing cannoli and colorfully
painted marzipan treats, but hold on,
let's not ruin our appetite. Signora Grammatico has prepared
a banquet designed so we can enjoy an unforgettable
education in Sicilian cuisine. Indimenticabile. Milli grazie,
Signora Grammatico. -Prego.
-And complimenti. -Grazie.
-So beautiful. Alfio,
what are we eating here? Give me a quick tour. -The most beautiful things
we have in Sicily. Bruschetta...
-Oh, okay. -...with tomatoes
and the good olive oil that we grow in Sicily. Rice balls -- arancini,
filled with meat, deep-fried, a specialty from Palermo. Tabbouleh, a reminder of
the Arabs that once were here. Pomodori secchi -- sun-dried
tomatoes, a local specialty. Plenty of sun in Trapani. Stuffed red peppers... -Ooh. This looks good.
-...with breadcrumbs, pine nuts and Pecorino
and Parmesan cheese. Local tuna,
fished in the islands out here. This is one of my favorite --
caponata, diced and fried eggplant. In Trapani only, they put
toasted almonds on it. Caprese salad -- red,
white, and green, the colors of the flag --
a reminder we're Italians. -This is Sicily,
and you even remember. -Even in Sicily.
Sometimes we forget. -Sono molto felice.
-Grazie. [ Speaking Italian ]
Mangia. -Mangia. Enjoying this feast with Alfio
is a great way to celebrate all we've experienced here
in Sicily, and there's so much more. With its Greek temples,
boisterous markets, Roman mosaics and glorious churches, all capped by an active volcano -- Sicily richly rewards those
who venture this far south. I hope you've enjoyed our look at the endearing
charms of Sicily. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time,
keep on traveling. Ciao. -Is it delizioso? -[ Speaking Italian ]
-Si. -[ Speaking Italian ] -♪ Mozia ♪ -♪ Mozia ♪ ♪ Oh, Mozia ♪ ♪ Why does it matter? ♪ Calamari,
delizioso. Arancini.
Arancini. -Arancini.
-Buon appetito. -Grazie.
