I'M RICK STEVES,
AND WE'RE EXPLORING MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE. THIS TIME WE'RE IN ITALY AND IT'S ALL ABOUT
LA DOLCE VITA. IT'S THE SWEET LIFE IN TUSCANY. THANKS FOR JOINING US. [ MUSIC PLAYS ] WHEN TRAVEL DREAMS
TAKE PEOPLE TO ITALY, TUSCANY IS OFTEN
THEIR FIRST STOP. THERE'S SOMETHING CHARMING,
ALMOST SEDUCTIVELY CHARMING ABOUT THIS REGION
AND ITS RUSTIC GOOD LIVING. TUSCANY OFFERS
A DOLCE VITA MIX OF HEARTY CUISINE, FASCINATING HISTORY, AND GENTLE BEAUTY. FIRST, WE'LL LEARN
ABOUT THE ORIGINAL TUSCANS -- THE ANCIENT ETRUSCANS. WE'LL TOUR A HILL TOWN
THAT WAS IMPORTANT TO BOTH THE ETRUSCANS AND THE ROMANS, HEAD INTO THE WOODS
FOR A TRUFFLE HUNT, WE'LL EAT SLOW FOOD
ITALIAN STYLE DURING A SUNDAY LUNCH, AND FINISH IN ANOTHER HILL TOWN WHERE WE'LL GET PASSIONATE
ABOUT THE LOCAL WINE. ITALY IS THE SIZE OF CALIFORNIA AND THE REGION OF TUSCANY
GRABS THE CENTER. WE'LL VISIT VOLTERRA BEFORE CHECKING OUT PIENZA AND MONTEPULCIANO. TUSCANY IS NAMED
AFTER THE ETRUSCAN PEOPLE WHO LIVED HERE CENTURIES BEFORE THIS REGION WAS CONQUERED
BY ANCIENT ROME. OVER 2,500 YEARS AGO, LONG BEFORE ANYBODY
HAD HEARD OF JULIUS CAESAR, AND BACK WHEN ROME
WAS STILL JUST A SMALL TOWN, THE ETRUSCAN CIVILIZATION FLOURISHED
IN THIS PART OF ITALY. ETRUSCAN TOMBS ARE SCATTERED
ALL OVER THE COUNTRYSIDE, LOCATED BOTH ON GOOD MAPS
AND ON SIGNPOSTS. WE'RE DROPPING IN ON A FARM TO VISIT THE TOMB
OF THE HESCANAS FAMILY. THIS TOMB,
CUT OUT OF SOLID TUFF ROCK, WAS DISCOVERED
BY THE FARMER'S GRANDFATHER. WHAT LITTLE WE KNOW
ABOUT THE ETRUSCANS WE'VE LEARNED MOSTLY FROM THEIR FRESCO-COVERED TOMBS. [ SPEAKING ITALIAN ] THE FARMER TELLS ME
THAT THIS TOMB DATES BACK TO ABOUT 350 B.C. [ SPEAKING ITALIAN ] THE ENTIRE FAMILY WAS BURIED IN SEVERAL SARCOPHAGI
IN THIS TOMB. [ SPEAKING ITALIAN ] WE CAN READ THE FAMILY NAME, SPELLED WHAT WE WOULD
CALL BACKWARDS -- "HESCANAS." THE FAINT
BUT STILL READABLE FRESCOS TAKE US BACK
TO THE FUNERAL RITUAL. SIGNOR HESCANAS RIDES THE CHARIOT INTO THE AFTERLIFE. IT'S A PRE-CHRISTIAN
JUDGMENT DAY AS A DIVINE MAGISTRATE
DELIBERATES HIS CASE. A HEAVENLY CHAMBER ORCHESTRA
PROVIDES MUSIC AS WOMEN IN FINE GOWNS
AND JEWELRY DANCE. THE MOTION AND REALISM CAPTURED BY THE 4th CENTURY B.C.
ARTIST IS IMPRESSIVE. LOOKING AT THIS EVIDENCE OF SUCH
AN ADVANCED CIVILIZATION, IT'S AMAZING
THAT THESE EARLIEST TUSCANS ARE STILL LARGELY A MYSTERY. WITH THE RISE OF ROME,
ETRUSCAN CIVILIZATION VANISHED, STEAMROLLED AND ABSORBED
INTO THAT MIGHTY EMPIRE. NOW, WITH EACH TOMB EXCAVATED, ARCHEOLOGISTS
ARE PIECING TOGETHER THE MYSTERIOUS PUZZLE
OF ETRUSCAN CULTURE. LIKE MANY POPULAR TUSCAN TOWNS, VOLTERRA SITS
ON AN ETRUSCAN FOUNDATION. 2,500 YEARS AGO,
VOLTERRA WAS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT
ETRUSCAN CITIES. IT WAS A KEY TRADING CENTER PROTECTED BY
A FOUR-MILE LONG WALL. ITS MIGHTY ETRUSCAN GATE, BUILT OF MASSIVE TUFF STONES,
SURVIVES. THE THREE SERIOUSLY ERODED HEADS DATE FROM THE 2nd CENTURY B.C. AND SHOW WHAT CAN HAPPEN WHEN YOU LEAVE SOMETHING OUTSIDE
FOR 2,000 YEARS. THE SMALLER STONES ARE PART
OF THE MEDIEVAL CITY WALL WHICH INCORPORATED PARTS OF THE MUCH OLDER ETRUSCAN WALL. UNLIKE OTHER FAMOUS TOWNS
IN TUSCANY, VOLTERRA FEELS NOT CUTESY AND TOURISTIC,
BUT REAL, VIBRANT, AND ALMOST OBLIVIOUS
TO THE ALLURE OF THE TOURIST DOLLAR. A REFRESHING BREAK FROM
ITS MORE COMMERCIAL NEIGHBORS, IT'S MY FAVORITE SMALL TOWN
IN TUSCANY. VOLTERRA'S ETRUSCAN MUSEUM
IS FILLED TOP TO BOTTOM WITH PRECIOUS ARTIFACTS
FROM CENTURIES BEFORE CHRIST. THE ARTIFACTS WERE MOSTLY EXCAVATED FROM TOMBS. YOU'LL SEE ETCHED MIRRORS, STYLIZED BRONZE BUCKLES, INTRICATELY DECORATED
POT HANDLES, AND EXQUISITELY CRAFTED JEWELRY. THE EXHIBIT HELPS US APPRECIATE
THE SOPHISTICATION OF THIS PRE-ROMAN SOCIETY. THE FORTE OF THIS MUSEUM IS ITS MANY FINELY CARVED
FUNERARY URNS -- STONE BOXES
CONTAINING ASHES OF THE DEAD. THEY SUGGEST THE ETRUSCANS
WERE INFLUENCED BY THEIR ANCIENT
GREEK CONTEMPORARIES. BUT WHILE GREEK ARTISTS FOCUSED
ON THE IDEALIZED HUMAN FORM, THE ETRUSCANS REPRESENTED PEOPLE
AS UNIQUE INDIVIDUALS -- PORTRAYED REALISTICALLY, WITH WRINKLES, CROOKED NOSES, AND FUNNY HAIRCUTS. THE MUSEUM'S EXTENSIVE
COLLECTION OF URNS -- WITH SUBJECTS LOUNGING
AS IF MUNCHING GRAPES WITH THE GODS
AT SOME HEAVENLY BANQUET -- IS A REMINDER
THAT THE ETRUSCANS BELIEVED YOU'D HAVE FUN IN THE AFTERLIFE. VOLTERRA'S
700-YEAR-OLD CITY HALL CLAIMS TO BE THE OLDEST
IN TUSCANY. CIVIC PALACES LIKE THESE
WERE EMBLEMS OF AN ERA WHEN CITY STATES WERE STRONG. THEY WERE
ARCHITECTURAL EXCLAMATION POINTS DECLARING THAT TOWNSPEOPLE,
RATHER THAN POPES AND EMPERORS, WERE CALLING THE SHOTS. TOWNS LIKE VOLTERRA
WERE TRULY CITY STATES. THEY WERE FIERCELY INDEPENDENT
AND RELATIVELY DEMOCRATIC. THEY HAD THEIR OWN ARMIES,
RAISED THEIR OWN TAXES, EVEN HAD THEIR OWN SYSTEMS
OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. A CHALLENGE FOR ME
IN MY GUIDEBOOK WRITING IS TO TAKE A SLICE OF A TOWN -- LIKE VOLTERRA'S MAIN DRAG --
AND WITH HELP FROM LOCAL GUIDES, GIVE TRAVELERS A PEEK
INTO THE CULTURE. THERE'S SO MUCH
TO SEE AND LEARN, IF YOU KNOW WHERE TO LOOK. ANNIE ADAIR, AN AMERICAN WHO
FELL IN LOVE WITH VOLTERRA -- AND ONE OF ITS MEN -- WORKS HERE AS A GUIDE, AND SHE'S
JOINING US TO HELP OUT. Adair: SO EVERY SATURDAY MORNING
WHEN THE TOWN MARKET IS HELD, THIS LITTLE CORNER IS WHERE ALL
OF THE FARMERS MEET TO DISCUSS HOW THEY'RE GOING
TO SELL THEIR WHEAT, WHAT FERTILIZER
THEY'RE GOING TO USE OR WHATEVER THEY NEED -- Steves: SO IT'S A TRADITION,
THEY GATHER RIGHT THERE. Adair: EVERY SATURDAY MORNING
YOU CAN SEE THE FARMERS, USUALLY WITH A WOOL VEST,
A NICE OLD HAT. "HOW ARE YOUR
FAVA BEANS DOING?"
EXACTLY. SO TUSCAN TOWNS ARE FILLED WITH
THESE LITTLE SPECIALTY STORES WHERE YOU CAN FIND MEATS
AND CHEESES. OH, THERE YOU'VE GOT -- THE KING OF THE TUSCAN FOREST,
THE WILD BOAR. IT'S MADE INTO GREAT SAUSAGES
AND HAM HOCKS. AND THIS IS ITS LEG. HAIRY ON THE OUTSIDE,
BUT PROSCIUTTO IN THE INSIDE. DELICIOSO. Adair: SO IF THE CITY
SEEMS CROWDED TODAY JUST IMAGINE IN THE MIDDLE AGES WHEN THERE WERE
FOUR TIMES AS MANY PEOPLE LIVING WITHIN THE CITY WALLS. AND THEY'D HAVE TO BUILD
WOODEN ADDITIONS AND BALCONIES
HANGING OUT OVER THE STREET, SO IT WAS A TANGLED MESS
OF BALCONIES AND ROOFS. SO THESE LITTLE NUBS SUPPORTED
WOODEN ADD-ONS BASICALLY? EXACTLY. NOW, THAT'S ONE STOUT TOWER. IT WAS ACTUALLY THE HOUSE
TOWER OR THE HOME OF A NOBLE FAMILY
IN THE 13th CENTURY. SO IT WAS A PRIVATE HOME? IT WAS A PRIVATE HOME, BUT IT ALSO SERVED
A DEFENSIVE FUNCTION. YOU CAN SEE
ON THE GROUND FLOOR -- THIS WOULD HAVE BEEN WHERE
THEY WOULD HAVE HAD A STORE, BUT THERE WAS
NO INTERIOR STAIRCASE, SO TO GET INSIDE THE HOUSE
THEY'D HAVE TO USE A LADDER UP TO THAT DOOR ABOVE
THAT'S VERY NARROW. SO THAT'S THE FRONT DOOR
OF THE HOUSE? THAT WAS THE FRONT DOOR
TO GET INSIDE THE HOUSE. AND IT WAS MADE SO NARROW
SO THAT YOU COULDN'T POSSIBLY GET INSIDE WEARING ARMOR. Steves: IT TURNS OUT
THAT QUAINT LITTLE VOLTERRA WAS A SIGNIFICANT PLAYER IN BOTH ANCIENT ETRUSCAN
AND ROMAN TIMES. Adair: BY ANCIENT STANDARDS,
VOLTERRA WAS HUGE. UNDER THE ETRUSCANS,
THERE WERE 25,000 INHABITANTS. 25,000, WOW. AND ABOUT FIVE CENTURIES LATER,
UNDER THE ROMANS, THERE WERE JUST AS MANY PEOPLE. AND THEY BUILT
THIS THEATER DOWN HERE TO SEAT UP TO 2,000 SPECTATORS. SO UNDER ALL OF THIS
THERE'S ROMAN RUINS? JUST ABOUT ANYWHERE YOU DIG YOU CAN FIND SOMETHING
THAT'S ROMAN. Steves: ALABASTER HAS
TRADITIONALLY BEEN A SPECIALTY HERE. FINE GALLERIES SHOW OFF THE EXPERTISE OF LOCAL ARTISTS. TO SEE SCULPTORS IN ACTION, DROP BY THE POWDERY
ALAB'ARTE WORKSHOP WHERE ROBERTO AND GIORGIO
TURN ROCK INTO ART. ALABASTER, QUARRIED NEARBY, HAS LONG BEEN A BIG INDUSTRY
HERE IN VOLTERRA. ALABASTER IS SOFTER AND EASIER TO WORK THAN MARBLE. LONG APPRECIATED
FOR ITS TRANSLUCENT QUALITY, IT WAS SLICED THIN
TO PROVIDE WINDOWS FOR ITALY'S MEDIEVAL CHURCHES. JUST UP THE STREET,
AT LA VENA DI VINO WINE BAR, BRUNO AND LUCIO
DEVOTE THEMSELVES TO THE WONDERS OF WINE. THEY SHARE THEIR VINO
AND THEIR LOVE OF MUSIC WITH A FUN-LOVING PASSION. EACH DAY THIS WINE-SIPPING DUO OPEN SIX OR EIGHT BOTTLES OF THE BEST LOCAL WINE
AND SERVE IT TO THE LOCAL GANG WITH A CHARISMATIC FLAIR. THIS IS YOUR CHANCE TO COMPARE
TWO FAVORITE TUSCAN REDS -- BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
AND SUPER TUSCAN WITH THE HELP OF A GOOD TEACHER. BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
IS TRADITIONAL WINE IN TUSCANY. IT'S SANGIOVESE GRAPES, IT'S ONLY SANGIOVESE GRAPES. SANGIOVESE GROSSO
FROM MONTALCINO, AND TRADITIONAL, AGED FIVE YEARS. SO THE BRUNELLO
IS ALL SANGIOVESE? ONLY SANGIOVESE. SO EXPLAIN TO ME
THE SUPER TUSCAN. SUPER TUSCAN
IS A TUSCAN WINE BUT WITH
INTERNATIONAL GRAPES. CABERNET, MERLOT, SYRAH. IT'S POSSIBLE
WITH SANGIOVESE GRAPES. SO IT'S OPEN FOR CREATIVITY,
A LITTLE TUSCAN, A LITTLE FRENCH, SPANISH,
WHO KNOWS? [ ITALIAN MUSIC PLAYS ] TUSCAN WINES
ARE SOME OF THE TASTIEST AND MOST FAMOUS IN ITALY. WINES ARE PARTICULAR
TO THEIR VILLAGE. THE CHARACTERISTICS OF THE SOIL, TEMPERATURE, AND EXPOSURE TO SUN
MAKE EACH WINE -- EVEN IF MADE FROM THE SAME
SANGIOVESE GRAPE -- UNIQUE. TO CONNECT WITH THE RURAL CHARM THAT'S SO MUCH A PART
OF OUR IMAGE OF TUSCANY, WE'RE EXPLORING BY CAR
AND STAYING NOT IN TOWNS BUT IN FARM HOUSES, LIKE THE AGRITURISMO TERRAPILLE. THIS RELAXING HIDEAWAY
CROWNS A BLUFF JUST BELOW THE HILL TOWN
OF PIENZA. SURROUNDED BY 360 DEGREES OF DREAMY TUSCAN SCENERY, IT'S PRIVATE AND RUSTIC, YET COMFY AND ROMANTIC. IN THE SPRING,
THE FERTILE TUSCAN COUNTRYSIDE BECOMES A GREEN MOSAIC OF FARMS. MANY OF THESE ARE AGRITURISMOS, OFFERING GOOD VALUE
ACCOMMODATIONS TO TRAVELERS. SOME ARE LUXURIOUS,
WITH PLUSH ROOMS AND OFFERING AMENITIES SUCH AS RIDING STABLES
AND SWIMMING POOLS. OTHERS ARE SIMPLE AND RUSTIC, OFFERING CASUAL
FARMHOUSE HOSPITALITY AND THE SMELL
OF WHATEVER IS BEING PRODUCED. A PEACEFUL HOME BASE
FOR EXPLORING THE REGION, THESE RURAL ITALIAN B&Bs ARE FAMILY-FRIENDLY AND IDEAL FOR THOSE
TRAVELING BY CAR. AGRITURISMOS ARE SUBSIDIZED, PART OF A GOVERNMENT EFFORT
TO HELP SMALL, FAMILY-RUN FARMS SURVIVE IN THIS AGE OF
LARGE-SCALE CORPORATE FARMING. TO QUALIFY AS AN AGRITURISMO, THE PLACE MUST STILL BE
A WORKING FARM. IF THIS SOUNDS GOOD TO YOU,
CHOOSE A PLACE THAT ADVERTISES ITSELF
SPECIFICALLY AS AN AGRITURISMO. WHEN IN TUSCANY, I TEAM UP WITH MY FRIEND AND FELLOW
TOUR GUIDE, ROBERTO BECHI. HE ALWAYS HAS SOME CREATIVE WAYS
TO GET OFF THE BEATEN PATH AND CLOSER TO THE CULTURE. THIS TIME IT'S TRUFFLES. WE'RE MEETING FABIO AND HIS
PRIZED DOGS NICK AND SUZY TO HUNT THE BELOVED TRUFFLES, ONE OF THIS REGION'S
SPECIALTIES. SO BASICALLY,
WHAT ARE TRUFFLES? TRUFFLES ARE MUSHROOMS
THAT LIVE UNDERGROUND. OKAY, AND WHERE
DO YOU FIND THEM? YOU FIND THEM
NEAR THE OAK TREES. LIKE HERE? YEAH, A PERFECT ENVIRONMENT. SO, WHAT KIND OF ENVIRONMENT
DO THEY LIKE? THEY NEED
A LOT OF MOISTURE. TELL ME ABOUT THESE DOGS. THESE DOGS
ARE TRAINED FOR YEARS BEFORE THEY CAN FIND
THE MUSHROOM. THEY SMELL IT OUT?
THEY SMELL IT OUT. DOVE? Steves: THE DOGS
ARE GIVEN TWO COMMANDS -- "DOVE?"MEANS
"WHERE IS IT?" AND "C'E?" -- "IS
THERE ONE?" C'E? C'E? DID HE FIND SOMETHING? YEAH. DOVE. NOW HE'S GOT THIS TOOL HERE -- IT'S CALLED A VANGHINO,
IT'S TO DIG OUT THE TRUFFLE. I SEE ONE. OH, THERE IT IS! SO THIS
IS THE PRECIOUS TRUFFLE? THE FAMOUS TRUFFLE. IN ITALIAN "TARTUFO"?
TARTUFO, CORRECT. PEOPLE PAY A LOT OF MONEY
FOR THIS? $100 A POUND. AH, SMELL THAT. IT'S WONDERFUL, WITH PASTA. AH,PRANZO. [ LAUGHTER ] JUST DOWN THE ROAD,
THE VILLAGE OF CHIUSURE IS CELEBRATING
ITS ANNUAL ARTICHOKE FESTIVAL. PEOPLE FROM ALL AROUND GATHER TO CELEBRATE THE PEAK
OF THE ARTICHOKE SEASON. YOUNG AND OLD GATHER TO PREPARE THESE BRISTLY TREATS. [ SPEAKING ITALIAN ] AH, THEY LOVE
THEIR ARTICHOKES HERE. I CAN SEE WHY,
IT'S TASTY. MM, WHAT IS IT ABOUT
THESE ARTICHOKES? WELL, THIS COMMUNITY
BROUGHT BACK THIS ARTICHOKE
FROM EXTINCTION. THIS PARTICULAR SPECIES? THIS PARTICULAR SPECIES HERE. SO THEY HAVE A FESTIVAL
EVERY YEAR?
EVERY YEAR. TELL ME ABOUT THIS SLOW FOOD. THIS IS RELATED
TO THE SLOW FOOD MOVEMENT RIGHT? ABSOLUTELY, IT'S THE IDEA THAT YOU HAVE TO EAT QUALITY
AND NOT QUANTITY. AND THAT YOU HAVE TO PRESERVE
THE VARIETY OF FOODS. SO NO CHEMICALS? NO CHEMICALS FIRST,
BUT ALSO THE VARIETIES. MORE VARIETIES -- BETTER. AND EAT IN THE SEASON. ABSOLUTELY,
ALWAYS IN SEASON. WOW, I'LL BE BACK NEXT YEAR
FOR THE ARTICHOKE FESTIVAL. ABSOLUTELY. Steves:
AND FOOD JUST DOESN'T GET MUCH SLOWER
THAN CHEESE-MAKING. IN THE NEARBY HILLS,
A FLOCK OF FREE RANGE SHEEP AND A FEW NOBLE GOATS HEAD BACK TO MUNCH SPRING GRASS
AFTER BEING MILKED. VICTORIA, WITH A LITTLE HELP, HAULS THEIR FRESH MILK
INTO HER CHEESE WORKSHOP. SHE STARTS BY POURING THE MILK INTO A BIG KETTLE TO WARM. WHEN IT GETS
TO THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE, SHE MIXES IN
A THISTLE FLOWER SOLUTION, INSTEAD OF RENNET,
TO GET IT TO CURDLE. THEN WHEN IT REACHES
THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY SHE STIRS IT
AND SEPARATES THE CURDS AND WHEY, OR LIQUID, SHE PRESSES THE CURDS INTO FORMS
MADE OF BEECHWOOD, GENTLY SQUEEZING
THE MOISTURE OUT. AFTERWARDS,
VICTORIA LOVINGLY TENDS HER AGING ROUNDS OF CHEESE. FARMS LIKE THIS
ARE PART OF ITALY'S GROWING "SLOW FOOD" MOVEMENT, WHERE PRODUCERS MAINTAIN
THE LABOR INTENSIVE TRADITIONS, AND CONSUMERS ARE WILLING
TO PAY EXTRA FOR THE QUALITY. MEANWHILE,
BACK AT THE AGRITURISMO, THE CATTLE,
OBLIVIOUS TO THEIR FATE, ARE RAISED IN FREE RANGE BLISS. THESE CHIANINA COWS
ARE CELEBRATED THROUGHOUT TUSCANY
FOR THEIR LEAN AND TASTY BEEF. IT'S SUNDAY, AND ROBERTO'S
SLOW FOOD GROUP IS ENJOYING A CONVIVIAL LUNCH
ON THE FARM. OUR MEAL COULDN'T BE MORE FRESH. LOCAL WINE, VICTORIA'S CHEESE,
TODAY'S CRUNCHY BREAD. WE'RE GRATING SOME OF THOSE
EXQUISITELY PUNGENT TRUFFLES ON OUR PASTA. THE ARTICHOKES ARE GOBBLED DOWN
RAW BY YOUNG AND OLD -- A LEAFY DELICACY. AND OUR FLORENTINE-CUT STEAK
IS COOKED JUST THE WAY LOCALS LIKE IT --
RARE -- AND SLICED THIN, GOOD ENOUGH FOR A MEDICI PRINCE. LUNCH IS THE MAIN EVENT
ON THIS TIMELESS TUSCAN SUNDAY. OUR NEXT STOP, PIENZA, IS A SMALL TOWN THAT PACKS
A LOT OF RENAISSANCE PUNCH. IN THE 1400s, POPE PIUS II
OF THE PICCOLOMINI FAMILY DECIDED TO REMODEL HIS HOMETOWN IN A STYLE THAT WAS
ALL THE RAGE -- RENAISSANCE. WITH CONSTRUCTION FAST-TRACKED
BY PAPAL CLOUT, THE TOWN WAS TRANSFORMED
IN JUST FOUR YEARS FROM A MEDIEVAL JUMBLE TO A JEWEL
OF RENAISSANCE ARCHITECTURE. AND THE TOWN
THAT WAS NAMED CORSIGNANO WAS RENAMED PIENZA,
AFTER POPE PIUS II. PIENZA'S CLASSIC MAIN SQUARE IS FAMOUS FOR ITS ELEGANCE
AND ARTISTIC UNITY -- THE CITY HALL... TWO PALACES... AND THE CATHEDRAL. WITH ITS BOLD
RENAISSANCE FACADE, THE PICCOLOMINI FAMILY
COAT OF ARMS IMMODESTLY FRONT AND CENTER -- THE CHURCH DOMINATES PIAZZA. POPE PIUS II'S PALACE,
WHICH WELCOMES THE PUBLIC, REMAINED THE HOME
OF THE PICCOLOMINI FAMILY UNTIL 1962. PIENZA, WHILE PLENTY TOURISTY, IS A DELIGHT TO EXPLORE. IT DOESN'T TAKE LONG TO WALK
EACH LANE IN THE TINY TOWN. VIEWS FROM THE TERRACE
INCLUDE THE TUSCAN COUNTRYSIDE, AND SOMEWHERE IN THE DISTANCE,
ON ANOTHER HILLTOP, STANDS MONTEPULCIANO. CROWNING YET ANOTHER RIDGE, MONTEPULCIANO WELCOMES VISITORS WITH VIEWS, VILLAS, AND VINO. STREETS ARE LINED
WITH NOBLE PALAZZOS BECAUSE FLORENTINE NOBILITY
FAVORED MONTEPULCIANO AS A BREEZY AND RELAXED PLACE
FOR A SUMMER RESIDENCE. ARISTOCRATIC EGOS
MEANT EACH PALACE WAS BUILT TO OUTDO ITS NEIGHBOR. PIAZZA GRANDE
IS DOMINATED BY THE CITY HALL. IT LOOKS LIKE
THE PALAZZO VECCHIO IN FLORENCE BECAUSE IT WAS BUILT UNDER FLORENTINE DOMINANCE
FIVE CENTURIES AGO. THE CRENELLATIONS ALONG THE ROOF
WERE NEVER INTENDED TO HIDE SOLDIERS,
JUST TO SYMBOLIZE POWER. THE UNFINISHED DUOMO
GLUMLY LOOKS ON, WISHING THE CITY HADN'T
RUN OUT OF MONEY FOR ITS FACADE. IT'S NOT UNCOMMON
TO FIND CHURCHES THAT WERE BUILT UNTIL THEY WERE
FUNCTIONAL ON THE INSIDE, AND THEN FOR VARIOUS REASONS, THE FACADES
WERE LEFT UNFINISHED. THIS INTENTIONALLY
ROUGH BRICK WORK PATIENTLY WAITS
FOR ITS FINAL MARBLE VENEER, WHICH WILL LIKELY NEVER ARRIVE. ALSO FACING THE MAIN SQUARE IS THE CONTUCCI PALACE, WHERE THE CONTUCCI FAMILY
STILL LIVES, PRODUCES,
AND SELLS THEIR WINE. IN THEIR CANTINA
THEY WELCOME VISITORS TO APPRECIATE THEIR WINE
AND HOW IT'S MADE. SINCE 1953,
YOUR WINE TASTING HOST AND VERY PASSIONATE TOUR GUIDE
HAS BEEN ADAMO. [ SPEAKING ITALIAN ] AND YOU DON'T HAVE
TO SPEAK ITALIAN TO UNDERSTAND THAT ADAMO
BELIEVES THEY MAKE EXCELLENT NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO
RIGHT HERE. [ SPEAKING ITALIAN ] ADAMO EXPLAINS THEIR WINE AGES
FROM TWO TO FOUR YEARS IN OAK FROM FRANCE,
SLOVENIA, AND ITALY, AND THAT EACH WOOD HAS ITS OWN
DISTINCT CHARACTERISTICS. [ SPEAKING ITALIAN ] IF HE GETS THIS EXCITED
ABOUT WOOD, I CAN HARDLY WAIT
FOR THE TASTING. ADAMO EXPLAINS THAT THIS NOBILE
HAS ONLY AGED TWO OF ITS REQUIRED FOUR YEARS,
AND IT'S PERFECT. TO GO BEYOND PERFECTION WE'LL TRY SOME FROM A BOTTLE
IN THEIR TASTING ROOM. SALUTE. WITH ADAMO'S
PASSION AND GUIDANCE, WINE CAN BE ENJOYED BY ANYBODY
VISITING MONTEPULCIANO WE HAVE AN APPROPRIATELY
ARISTOCRATIC GUESTHOUSE TO CALL HOME IN TOWN, AND THANKFULLY
IT'S JUST AROUND THE CORNER. MEUBLE IL RICCIO
COMES WITH MEDIEVAL ELEGANCE, COMFY ROOMS --
MINE HAS A VIEW... AND AN EXPANSIVE
AND MEMORABLE BREAKFAST ROOM. THE OWNER, GIORGIO, IS HAPPY TO HELP HIS GUESTS
WITH SIGHTSEEING TIPS. AND EVEN BETTER,
GIORGIO'S TAKING ME FOR A SPIN IN ONE OF
HIS CLASSIC ITALIAN CARS. TUSCANY LOOKS GREAT
WITH THE TOP DOWN. THE MANY CHARMS OF THIS REGION REWARD THE TRAVELER
WITH A FASCINATING INSIGHT INTO A LAND
THAT MAKES LIVING WELL A TIME-HONORED ART. LIFE CAN BE, OH, SO SWEET,
ESPECIALLY HERE IN TUSCANY. AND IT DOESN'T HURT
TO HAVE GIORGIO FOR A DRIVER. THANKS FOR JOINING US
FOR A LITTLEDOLCE VITA. I'M RICK STEVES. UNTIL NEXT TIME,
KEEP ON TRAVELING. AVANTI, GEORGIO.
