Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of
the best of Europe. The artichokes are in season
and I'm working up an appetite in the north of Italy. It's Verona, Padova,
and Ravenna. Thanks for joining us. I'm not in Venice,
but it feels like Venice, just without the canals. In its heyday,
the island of Venice ruled a huge empire,
and that included a good part of
the Italian mainland, a region called the "Veneto." With much of the charm
and far fewer crowds, you could call this part of
Italy "sotto-estimato..." under-estimated. We'll marvel at precious
Giotto frescoes, join pilgrims at the tomb
of Saint Anthony, and celebrate an irreverent
university graduation. We'll see an ancient Roman arena
in a modern urban setting, admire exquisite
Byzantine mosaics, and make friends over
a little grappa. [Singing] STEVES: Italy stretches
like Europe's boot into the Mediterranean Sea. Venice sits near the top
of the Adriatic Sea. Exploring a region
called the Veneto, we'll visit Padova and Verona before finishing in Ravenna. We're starting here in Padova. Like the rest of the Veneto,
Padova was ruled by Venice from the 15th century
until Napoleon came, about 1800. Chafing under Venetian rule
for four centuries seemed only to sharpen
Padova's independent spirit. And that spirit survives at
its prestigious university. Nicknamed
"the brain of the Veneto," it was founded in 1222,
one of the first in Europe. Renowned in its day,
it was a haven for free thinking and attracted intellectuals
from far and wide. 400 years ago,
the great scientist Galileo, notorious for disagreeing with
the Church's views on science, enjoyed that academic freedom. He called the 18 years
spent on the faculty here the best years of his life. Everywhere you look
there are memories of illustrious
alumni and professors, and within these
historic lecture halls is Europe's oldest surviving
anatomy theater, from the late 1500s. Back then, medical students
would pack these steep balconies to watch professors
dissect human cadavers. This was allowed by
the government and the Church as long as the cadavers were
convicted foreign criminals. This remarkable theater is
an example of the importance placed on science
during the Renaissance. With 60,000 students, Padova's university
is always lively, and you're likely
to stumble onto some kind of
spirited school event. A unique ritual is
the post-graduation roast. Friends gather around the new
grad and the pranks begin. The gang presents a giant poster
with a generally crude caricature of the graduate
and a list of embarrassing personal stories
for all to see. [Singing in Italian] Then friends sing
the catchy but obscene local university anthem,
reminding their newly esteemed friend
not to get too stuffy. Loosely translated,
♪ You may be a doctor ♪ ♪ A doctor ♪ ♪ But you're still
just a... ♪ ♪ Go... yourself,
go... yourself ♪ Finally,
there's the playful send-off, like a rude birthing
into the real world. Padova's old town,
even when crowded with today's students, has a colonnaded
Old World elegance. Its charming lanes
are lined with 17 miles of porticos, which come in
a variety of styles. The main drag leads to one of the most important
pilgrimage churches in all of Europe...
the Basilica of Saint Anthony. For nearly 800 years,
pilgrims have flocked here to venerate the tomb of
Saint Anthony of Padova. One of Christianity's
most popular shrines to one of the most
popular saints, the basilica was begun a year after Anthony died,
in 1232, and is filled with
magnificent art. Gracing the high altar
are a group of bronze statues by the Renaissance Master
Donatello... the Crucifixion and Mary,
with Padova's favorite saints. The church feels alive
with pilgrims from all corners. The former Polish Chapel
was recently renamed for Saint John Paul II, canonized in 2014, and the side chapel,
containing Saint Anthony's tomb, is a Renaissance masterpiece
from 1500. The pilgrims believe Anthony
is their protector, confidant, and intercessor. Votives from the faithful
ask for help or give thanks for miracles they believe he's performed. By placing their hand
on his tomb while saying a silent prayer, pilgrims show devotion
to Anthony and feel the saint's presence. Behind the high altar, pilgrims visit
the relics of the saint -- considered miraculously
preserved... his vocal chords,
tongue, and jawbone. These relics befit the saint who couldn't stop teaching,
preaching, and praying. Padova's vast 14th century
Palazzo della Ragione, once the town's
medieval law court, now hosts a sprawling market. The scene has changed little
over the centuries, as merchants artfully
display their goods. Since medieval times
shoppers have come here for the best Veneto produce. It's known for
having the freshest and greatest selection of herbs,
fruits, and vegetables. As you wander, appreciate the Italian passion
for good food. Merchants share
recipe tips with shoppers. Locals can tell the month
by the seasonal selections. Strawberries and white asparagus? It's April. And in springtime,
there's lots of work for the man who
preps the artichokes. The indoor market,
featuring various butchers and cheese shops, is a sensuous experience
as well. Stalls and shops
are often family-run, and the lineage of
some of these merchants stretches back centuries. Town squares take on
different personalities as the day goes on. Early in the evening
the stalls are gone and the piazzas become
community gathering places. This is the time
when, traditionally, students gather to enjoy
the ritual of the aperitivo, lubricated by a spritz or three. This is the perfect opportunity
for a traveler to grab a drink, strike up a conversation,
and become part of the scene. Aperitivo, you know? It's just to relax after
your long day at work or at university. STEVES: You come to the piazza and you know you're
going to find friends. WOMAN: Yes, it's always like,
you know, you're going back home and you
come here and you look around and you always see your friends, and you stop and say, "Oh,
let's have a drink together," and that's just normal. MAN: You always see somebody.
You don't say, "Oh, my god, we're going to
go have an aperitivo, it's going to be a fun night,"
we're just like, "Hey, I'm in Piazza dei Signori. Do you want to drop by before I
go home and have a bite to eat?" STEVES: So, now, spritz. That's very trendy, I think. WOMAN: Well, there's two
different kinds of spritz. You see the color is different,
so it's basically... this is with Aperol,
which is lighter. And that one is with Campari, and then you put
a slice of orange, usually ice and white wine
or sparkling wine and a bit of water also. STEVES: Whatever
your favorite drink, everyone, including tourists, is welcome to enjoy
this convivial Italian ritual. Padova's Scrovegni Chapel, with its precious 14th century
Giotto frescoes, is one of Italy's most beloved
art treasures. Considered too fragile to be
seen by huge numbers of people, sights like this are open
only to a limited number of visitors who make
a reservation in advance. Wallpapered with Giotto's
beautifully preserved cycle of frescoes,
the glorious chapel, painted in about the year 1300, depicts the lives
of Jesus and Mary. Giotto, considered
the first modern painter, painted scenes that were
more realistic and human than anything that had been done
for a thousand years. Moving beyond medieval 2-D
and gold leaf backgrounds, with these realistic
groundbreaking frescoes, Giotto introduces nature...
rocks, trees, animals... as a backdrop
for religious scenes. His people,
with their voluminous, deeply creased robes, are as sturdy and massive
as Greek statues. Their gestures are simple
but expressive. Arm raised shows anger. Head titled down says dejection. Arms flung out indicate anguish. And a tender kiss, caring love. Giotto's storytelling style
is straightforward, and anyone with
a knowledge of the Bible can read the chapel
like a picture book. In the "Betrayal of Christ,
" amid the crowded chaos of Jesus' arrest,
Giotto skillfully creates a focus upon
the central action... Judas embraces Jesus,
looks him straight in the eyes, and kisses him. In "The Deposition," Jesus has been taken down
off the cross, and his followers weep and wail
over his lifeless body. John the Evangelist spreads his arms wide
and shrieks, his cries echoed by
anguished angels above. Each face is a study in grief. Giotto emphasizes
the human vulnerability of these figures. And, like a centerpiece
on the far wall, is "The Last Judgment." Christ oversees the action as the saved,
on his right, emerge grateful from their graves, and the damned, on his left, are just kicking off
a hellish eternity. Satan is a grotesque ogre munching on sinners. Around him,
demons torture the damned in a scene right out of
"The Inferno" by Dante, who happened to be
Giotto's friend. Calmly isolated from the action
is Enrico Scrovegni, who paid for all this art in
an attempt to gain forgiveness for the sins of his wealthy
and greedy father. These frescoes are
considered by many to be a precursor of
the Renaissance to come. With this masterpiece,
created 200 years before Leonardo
and Michelangelo, Giotto seems to be
making it clear... Europe was breaking out
of the Middle Ages. Getting around this part
of Italy is easy. Padova and Verona
are just minutes apart on the main Venice-to-Milan
train line. Next stop, Verona. Verona, at the base of the Alps and nestled in a bend
of the Adige River, is another leading city
in the Veneto. Its main attractions are
its wealth of Roman ruins, like this bridge, dating from
the first century BC, remnants of its
14th century boom time... And its 21st century quiet,
pedestrian-only ambiance. Ancient Romans considered Verona
an ideal last stop before heading north
over the Alps. This well-preserved arena,
the fourth-largest in the Roman world,
is a popular venue for events even today. Over the centuries,
crowds of up to 25,000 spectators
have filled this place -- cheering Roman
gladiator battles, medieval executions,
and modern plays, including Verona's popular
summer opera festival. Climb to the top
and imagine the spectacles this arena has hosted
for over 2,000 years. Verona's market square
is Piazza Erbe. People have gathered here
since Roman times, when this was a forum,
or market. And it remains a market
to this day. The 16th century frescoes -- characteristic of this region --
earned Verona a nickname... "the painted city." The Venetian lion has hovered
over this square since 1405, when it reminded locals
that they were ruled by Venice. During medieval times,
this stone canopy held the scales
used by merchants. A fountain has bubbled here
for 2,000 years. This statue, originally Roman,
lost its head and arms. After a sculptor replaced them, locals dubbed her
"Verona's Madonna." And what's with
this whale's rib? It's been hanging here
for four centuries, likely a souvenir brought home from the Orient
by spice traders. I'm popping into a wine bar
to learn about grappa. North Italy is grappa country,
and Oreste, who runs this bar, introduces the local firewater
with a passion clearly shared by
a couple of his regulars. [Speaking Italian] [Singing] Once she can break free
of Giancarlo's perhaps over-friendly embrace, my friend Valeria
helps translate Oreste's grappa wisdom. The more the aging,
the smoother it gets. STEVES: So wine is made
out of grape juice. What's grappa made out of? Grappa's made out of seeds,
skins, and stems of the vine. So it's the leftover material
after the wine process. Exactly, exactly. Extreme wine. Yes, yes. Do you like it? A little bit. - Not too much.
- Not too much. - Yes.
- In Italian, how do you say, "Grappa helps you
make friends?" "La grappa aiuta
faca de amici." Exactly, of course, of course. Oreste helps you make friends. [Speaking Italian] Medieval Italian cities
were often dominated by a single powerful family. Just as the Medici family
ruled Florence, this castle is a reminder that
the Scaligeri family ran the city of Verona
back in the 14th century. The Scaligeri castle
evokes Verona's Golden Age, when the city was one of
Europe's great economic powers. If these ornate family tombs
are any indication, the Scaligeri had no problem
with self-esteem. And, by building
their tombs on pillars, they made sure
they'd be looked up to even in death. Sooner or later,
those wandering Verona's streets will be flushed into
a very crowded courtyard. Shakespeare's
"Romeo and Juliet" made Verona a household word, and this is supposedly
Juliet's balcony, but, alas,
a visit here has nothing to do with those two
star-crossed lovers, and Juliet never
lived in this house. Still, busloads of tourists gaze at the almost-believable
balcony, scribble a valentine
on the walls, and take part in the tradition of rubbing the breast
of Juliet's statue. Why? For a better love life. It's fun to observe the scene
knowing that all this commotion was started by a clever
tour guide back in the '70s as a way to attract visitors
to Verona. The wall of padlocks
is a popular fad, enabling lovers to prove
that their hearts are eternally locked up. Fans of "Romeo and Juliet"
will be happy to note that Shakespeare's
inspiration for the Montagues and the Capulets
was two real feuding families from here in Verona,
the Montecchi and the Capellos, and if Romeo and Juliet had
existed and were still alive, they'd recognize
much of their hometown. Right now, my love story
is all about food, and I'm joining
local friends for dinner at Enoteca Cangrande. This is a classic little
mom-and-pop restaurant, with Giuliano helping diners
match fine Italian wines with just the right
local dishes, while stylish Corrina's
in the tiny kitchen, making sure every dish
is just right. My favorite way to eat in Italy
is to trust the chef and just say,
"Bring it on!" Giuliano is serving us
an array of plates. Each celebrates fine ingredients
of this region, and Giuliano,
along with Franklin and Marina, are helping us appreciate what
we're eating and drinking. This is such beautiful food
and it's such beautiful wine. Can you imagine having
the beautiful food with no beautiful wine? FRANKLIN: Not really. It would be like being at
La Fenice, the opera, first row,
and being in bad company, someone who doesn't
appreciate opera music and would prefer rock music,
let's say. It wouldn't be the right thing. STEVES: Next up,
eggplant parmigiana and burrata from Puglia. Do you talk about
the food as you eat it? FRANKLIN: Yes, absolutely,
constantly. - [Laughter]
- Any age without getting bored. We might get drunk, but... [Laughter] Not bored. Italians love
to talk about food. It's in their DNA. STEVES: As the cannelloni
with fontina and duck ravioli with Amarone arrive,
we learn that even in a fine
restaurant like this, diners have a higher standard
than you'd expect... "la mamma." FRANKLIN: Italian men
who adore cooking will always refer to "la mamma,"
their mother. That's... that's
the answer to everything. So it goes back to
your childhood. Absolutely, yes, sure. To go to a restaurant
is wonderful, but how "la mamma" cooked, no one,
nobody can equal that. STEVES: And finally,
beef cheeks, stewed in Amarone with polenta, just as "la mamma"
made it. Rick, "salute", cheers. STEVES: "Salute!" To mamma. "La mamma," okay. A two-hour train ride
takes us through the lush Po River valley,
just south of the Veneto, to Ravenna. Ravenna is a charming if
underwhelming town of 140,000, with a fascinating history
and some of Italy's most amazing art treasures. Ravenna is on the tourist map
for one reason... its 1,500 year old churches
decorated with best-in-the-West
Byzantine mosaics. Imagine it's the year 500 AD. The Roman Empire
has fallen in the West, barbarians have sacked
the city of Rome, and Europe is falling into
the Dark Ages, yet the Eastern half
of the empire, ruled from dazzling
Constantinople, present-day Istanbul,
has morphed into Byzantium and becomes the pinnacle
of civilization. The Byzantine Emperor Justinian
then brings order and stability to this part of Europe,
making Ravenna the westernmost pillar
of his realm. His church of San Vitale
stands as a sanctuary of order in the midst of all that chaos. Its interior is decorated
with lavish mosaics -- countless vibrantly
colored chips the size of your fingernail --
that served as propaganda for an alliance between
the Church and the Emperor. High above the altar,
Christ is in heaven, sitting on a celestial orb
overseeing creation, symbolized by the green earth
below his feet. And running things here on earth
is Emperor Justinian, sporting both a halo and a crown
to show he's leader of both the Church
and the state. Justinian brings together both
military and church leaders, all united by the same vision. Facing the emperor is his wife
Theodora and her entourage. The former dancer
who became his mistress, then empress, is decked out
in jewels and pearls and carries a chalice to
consecrate the new church. As pilgrims have done
for centuries, visitors marvel. Appreciate the symmetry. At the top of the arch, the circle with
the monogram of Christ... "I" for Jesus
and "X" for Christ... symbolizes perfection
and eternity. Floating above the arch,
two angels hold rays of sun. The ceiling above is a festive
celebration of God's creation, with 80 different birds
from the sixth century, most still flying around
Ravenna today. All creation swirls around
Christ as this sacrificial lamb, supported by four angels. Everything sparkles
with colorful Bible scenes told with a sixth-century
exuberance. This was a time of transition,
and many considered these mosaics both
the last ancient Roman and the first
medieval European works of art. For instance,
this image of Christ is beardless,
the style of the ancient Romans, and nearby is the standard
medieval portrayal of a bearded Jesus. Yet each were created by artists
of the same generation. So much sightseeing greatness
awaits discovery in Europe's second-tier cities. While you'll probably
see Venice first, don't overlook the gems of
the mainland nearby... its distinctive cuisine, its history and sumptuous art, and its people, embracing today with
classic Italian flair. I hope you've enjoyed our look
at three delightful cities in the north of Italy...
Ravenna, Padova, and Verona. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time,
keep on travelin'. "Ciao." [Shouting in Italian] Ha ha! [Singing in Italian] [Laughter] [Speaking Italian] What does Giancarlo say
about grappa? "Cosa dici Giancarlo
la grappa?" "È buono!"
