Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more
of the best of Europe. This time, we're in Greece,
climbing 999 steps to bring you the best of
the Peloponnesian Peninsula. Thanks for joining us. ♪ Peloponnesia was the heartland
of ancient Greece. Its wild and mountainous
landscape has hosted the interminable rise and fall
of cultures, which makes for
fascinating sightseeing today. The peninsula is dotted
with striking ruins, from ancient Mycenaen domes to Golden Age temples to opposing
Venetian fortresses. And we'll also see
stunning seaside scenery, a Greek Orthodox service, and the breathtaking remains
of a Byzantine citadel. In the extreme south of Europe
is Greece, and in the south of Greece, a short drive from Athens, is the Peloponnese, a peninsula barely hanging
from the mainland. Our tour includes Mycenae,
Nafplion, Epidavros, Olympia,
Kardamyli, the rugged Mani Peninsula,
and Monemvasia. Peloponnesian history
is Greece's history. Warring tribes,
pan-Hellenic games, Golden Age Greeks,
Roman rule, centuries of Byzantine rule. Then, with the fall
of Constantinople to the Ottoman Turks
in the 15th century, the Peloponnesian Peninsula
became part of the Ottoman Empire. Finally, in the 19th century,
after 400 years, the Greeks threw out
their Turkish overlords and established
an independent modern nation. Greece, with a relatively
sparse population and a fine road system, is easy to cover by bus or car. We've rented a car in Athens, and in 90 minutes, we're crossing
the Corinth Canal. The Corinth Canal cuts
the Peloponnesian Peninsula off from the rest of Greece. 2,000 years ago, the Roman Emperor Nero
broke ground for this canal. But the four-mile-long ditch
wasn't actually dug until about a century ago
by modern Greeks. Our first stop
is ancient Mycenae, the oldest site
you're likely to see in this land
dotted by so many ruins. The Mycenaens,
who dominated the greek world between 1600 and 1200 BC, were the first
Bronze Age society to emerge
on the European mainland. As the torch of civilization
moved westward, they picked it up
from the Minoans, an even earlier civilization
that thrived on the Greek island
of Crete. While the Minoans enjoyed
the luxury of peace on their remote island,
the Mycenaens were a militaristic society
surrounded by enemies. Their capital
was heavily fortified and stood on
an easy-to-defend hill flanked by steep ravines
with views all the way to the sea. Mycenae flourished
because it was ideally situated for trade by both sea and land. In its day,
the mighty Lion Gate would have been awe-inspiring. Standing strong here
for over 3,000 years, it was the symbol
of Mycenaen power. These were the early Greeks
Homer wrote of in the Iliad
and The Odyssey. Keep in mind,
these people lived 1,000 years before
the rise of Athens. They were as ancient
and mysterious to Socrates and Plato as those Golden Age Greeks
are to us. While the ruins
are stark and scant, with a little imagination,
you can envision life here. For example, to fetch water,
residents would descend into this
cleverly constructed mine-like shaft
and climb way, way, way down. I'm 60 feet below the surface. This is the cistern
where the water was collected, piped in from a spring
that was 500 yards
outside the walls. Even back then,
you couldn't have a good fortress
without water. Mycenae was at
the peak of its power around 1300 BC,
after which it and its empire
seemed to disappear virtually overnight. A circular wall of stones
defined the cemetery. Mycenae lay unappreciated
until the 19th century, when a treasure trove of gold was unearthed
in this necropolis. Today, those treasures
are the star attractions back in Athens
at the National Archaeological Museum. This discovery affirmed
the archaeologists' theory that Mycenae was Homer's
fabled city rich in gold, and the elaborate detail makes the sophistication
of the Mycenaens clear. These golden cups
are exquisite. The so-called mask of agamemnon
was a death mask placed on the face of
a dead king in his coffin. The Mycenaens took
good care of their dead -- at least their important dead. This passageway leads to
an underground royal tomb. The corbelled stone work
was an engineering feat. Designed like a stone igloo,
this tholos -- tomb -- was the biggest dome
of its day. This remarkable structure
remained the king of domes
until the Romans built their Pantheon
about 1,400 years later. One way to judge a society's
architectural finesse is by the distance it can span
with no internal supports. By today's standards,
this structure's not much, but back then,
it was a wonder. Nearby on the coast, the city of Nafplio
is the perfect base for exploring
the northeast corner of the Peloponnesian Peninsula. Nafplio is a striking reminder that this part of Greece was,
for centuries, an outpost of Venice. The island in the harbor was
the first line of local defense. The second line was
the Palamidi Fortress capping the hilltop high above. Climb 999 steps above Nafplio
and you reach this early-18th century
fortress. Your reward,
along with a great view, is a chance to appreciate
the far-reaching power of the Venetian empire
in its day. The Palamidi Fortress,
regarded as the best example of Venetian
military architecture, saw plenty of action. It fell to the Ottomans in 1715,
played a role in the Greek War of Independence
in the 1820s, and was occupied by the Nazis
during World War II. Nafplio is one of Greece's
prettiest towns. Its narrow streets are lined
by elegant Venetian houses and graceful
neoclassical mansions. Like the big square
in Athens, Nafplio's main square
is called Syntagma -- or "constitution" -- Square. A constitution was
the dream of many in the 1820s as the Greeks were creating
their newly independent nation. As this town was one of
the first liberated from the Ottoman Turks in 1822,
Nafplio became the new country's
first capital city. This square is a delightful
mix of architecture revealing the many layers
of local history. The old Venetian arsenal
still sports the symbol of Venice --
the winged lion of St. Mark. The domed mosques
are a reminder of centuries
of Muslim Ottoman rule. This mosque
was converted to house independent Greece's
first parliament. At the top of the town,
our hotel's stony courtyard fits right in. The breakfast room
comes with friendly service and a commanding view. And the bedrooms are
a tasteful mix of stone and wood. The harborfront promenade
features inviting bars
and couch-filled cafes which attract a relaxed crowd. The sofas encourage
locals and visitors alike to stay a while, and, if you stay long enough,
nearby tavernas, as rustic restaurants
are called here, serve the fish dish
of your dreams. An hour's drive east is the sanctuary at Epidavros with the best-preserved theater
in the ancient world surrounded by the scant remains
of its city. In 400 BC, Epidavros,
with a sprawling complex of hospitals and sick wards, was the most famous
healing center in the Greek world. It was a place
of miraculous cures and comfortable benches
where the sick came to be treated by doctor priests
doing the work of Asklepios,
the Greek god of medicine. The highlight of Epidavros
is its fine theater, which provided entertainment
for those who made the pilgrimage here
from all over Greece. It continued to operate
until 426 AD, when Emperor Theodosius II,
who was a Christian, closed it down along with
all other pagan sanctuaries. Given its size,
over 12,000 seats, and obvious lack
of modern amplification, the acoustics
needed to be perfect, and they still are. Friends, Greeks, wayfarers. In these times of discord, fear is rampant in our society. I contend that
the flip side of fear is understanding,
and those who travel will reap great understanding
by meeting people who find other truths
to be self-evident and God-given. [ cheers and applause ] The rugged,
sparsely populated terrain of the Peloponnese
evokes ancient times when Greeks considered this a mysterious
and frightening land -- a mythic world
of terrifying creatures. No wonder it was here
that Hercules was sent to perform most
of his daunting labors. Ancient athletes
were tested here, as well. The Sanctuary of olympia was the birthplace
of the Olympic Games. Despite the tourist crowds,
it remains an evocative place
nestled among shady trees. Wandering its extensive ruins,
its clear Olympia was much more
than a stadium. Yes, Zeus. Local tour guide Niki Vlachou
helps explain. So, it's called
the "sanctuary" of Olympia. Yes, but it was primarily
a religious place dedicated to Zeus
and the rest of the gods with temples all over,
and it was only open to people
during the games... Okay.
For over 1,000 years. Steves: The temple of Zeus
was magnificent in the 5th century BC,
and reminds us that the games were held
in honor of the supreme deity of the Greek pantheon,
or "world of gods." Inside this temple was
that amazing statue of Zeus which was considered
to be one of the Seven Wonders
of the Ancient World. Gold and ivory
towering in the temple that made the Greeks
lose their minds by seeing Zeus
alive in front of them. This was one of
their chances to meet the god in person,
as they thought. Steves: Six centuries
after Christ, earthquakes sent its columns
tumbling. Today, they lie here, as if to illustrate
how Greek columns were stacks
of fluted limestone drums held together
with square pegs. The popularity of the games
grew rapidly, attracting athletes
from throughout the Greek world to compete in an ever-increasing
number of events. There was javelin,
discus, boxing. There was a sprint
of one stadium length, the two-stadium sprint,
even two-stadium sprint naked with all your armor. The last of the ancient games
were held in 393 AD, not to be started again
for 1,500 years. So, why the games? Vlachou: To unify the Greeks,
to strengthen the Greek culture, and to also teach
all these young boys the military skills
they needed. Plus, they had
all these classrooms here to teach them
the Greek philosophy. So the Olympic Games
actually made the Greek culture stronger. The idea was that
if the Greeks are to fight, they better fight
in the stadium and be united against
the rest of the world. It's brilliant, and this
worked for 1,200 years. Yes. Steves: The most vivid remnant
of the games is this -- the original Olympic stadium. Visitors just can't resist
the chance to line up on the marble starting blocks
and imagine athletes from around the Greek world
doing the same thing at those first games
back in 776 BC. While most visitors get to
the four Peloponnesian sites we've seen so far,
a three-hour drive gets us off the beaten path
and to the south coast. This is where
the rugged charm of this remote corner of Greece
is most apparent. The town Kardamyli,
gateway to the Mani Peninsula, is one the oldest names
in the annals of Greek history, even mentioned
in Homer's Iliad. This unassuming
little seaside getaway is a fine spot to relax
and settle into the pace of Greek country life. The remains of
the tiny fortified old town are a reminder that Kardamyli
was deserted in the middle ages when pirates
forced the inhabitants to retreat up into the hills. Most remained there
until the 18th century when tower houses like these
allowed a safe return. Yiannis Demetrios
runs a delightful little shop that showcases
the organic riches of this corner of Greece. You know,
this room, to me, is just a celebration
of everything you can find in the hills here
in the Peloponnese. Well, that's how
we feel about it, actually, and that's why we're running
this little store. So you find everything here,
essentially, up in the hills. Up in the hills next door. Well, should I show you
what I picked now, Rick? Well, this is it. This is chamomile,
or camomile. This is
a beautiful camomile as you can see,
white and yellow flower. It is the flower
that we are after. All the good stuff
is in the flower, right? The good stuff
inside the flower that make you rest,
sleep easily at night, calm down your stomach,
if you got a cold, soothes down your
sore throat and everything. Doctors recommend it. This is like a pharmacy. You've got it. Let me show you
the olives now. We have many different
types of olives, but what it is about olives
is the way we make them. You don't go off the tree, of course, and pick them like you pick any other fruit
and you eat it. They have to be picked
and then go through a process of being marinated,
cleaned up, washed, and after a certain time,
they'll be ready. They will be ready to eat. What do we have here? These are
the kalamata olives. Kalamata. There's the town,
Kalamata -- that's the name
of the olives. You know,
this is made very simply. This is made with sea salt, wine vinegar,
and olive oil. As simple as that. Now, what's in this one? Well, this is kalamata
and green ones mixed together and marinated
with more herbs. Sea salt, wine vinegar, six herbs, olive oil,
and garlic. I have to try one. Of course.
It's my pleasure. This is the herb version. These are the same
kind of olives as these and these
but with more herbs. With more herbs. That's good. And all of those herbs
were found in the hills. On the hillsides. By you?
By me. Really?
Absolutely. You must feel very personal
about these olives. I...
I'm in -- I'm almost
in love with it. I love doing it. Steves: The charm of Kardamyli
is its low-key atmosphere, especially lunch or dinnertime
overlooking the coast. We're here before
the tourist season hits, and it's mostly locals
enjoying the scene. It's Sunday and two goats
are roasting on the spit as we settle in for a taste
of the local cuisine. Starting with ouzo,
the Greek anise-based aperitif. Then a fresh Greek salad, stuffed peppers,
and tzatziki, the yogurt dip
that accompanies most meals. And when goat's on the spit,
why choose anything else? Kardamyli
is a good springboard for exploring
the Mani Peninsula. This southeastern tip
of the European mainland feels as wild as its history. In the 17th
and 18th centuries, this godforsaken
corner of Greece was known to travelers as
"the land of evil counsel." That's because of its reputation
for robbery and piracy, a more reliable way
to survive here than trying to eke out
an honest living by farming this barren land. The town of Vathia
is one of the region's characteristic
tower settlements. The best-preserved
of all the Mani villages, its deserted,
fortified houses are a poignant reminder
that these harsh conditions forced the population
to seek protection in clans. In its day,
the population was swollen by an influx of refugees
fleeing whatever crisis was gripping Greece
further to the north. Looking around
at the stark landscape of the Mani Peninsula, which barely supports
5,000 people today, it's hard to believe
that 200 years ago, it sustained a population
of almost 60,000. Just up the coast,
wedged in a ravine, the village of Kastania
is more inviting, and offers a rare opportunity to explore
a traditional Mani village. While it feels
pretty sleepy today, Kastania was once
a local powerhouse. During the 19th century
Greek War of Independence, it boasted no less
than 400 "guns," as Mani people
called their menfolk. They were gathered
under a warlord whose imposing family tower still stands
over the town square. Along with many guns,
the town had many churches. The tiny Church of St. Peter, thought to have been built
during the 12th century, is a fine example
of Byzantine church architecture
of the time. The inside is richly adorned
with frescoes that have told
bible stories to this community
for centuries. While it feels unkept
and ramshackle, and a destructive mold
has hastened the aging
of its precious art, the spiritual wonder
of the place remains intact. Its amazing to think
that in our age there are still
remote corners where centuries-old art
is tucked away where virtually
no tourist goes... And where the curious traveler
can be alone with a fragile yet surviving bit
of a bygone age. Neglected as this chapel seems,
when a local drops by to light a candle
and say a prayer, you realize this is
still very much a living place of worship. [ bells ringing ] Back down
on the town square, the local priest
calls his flock to worship. [ chanting ] Whether 30
or just three show up, he performs the service
with the same enthusiasm. Like people in Russia,
Serbia, and some other Balkan countries, most Greek Christians
are Eastern Orthodox. Orthodox churches follow
the earliest traditions of the Christian faith from a time
before reforms created today's Roman Catholic
and Protestant traditions. The iconostasis,
the icon-covered screen in the middle of the room,
separates the material world, where the worshippers stand,
from the heavenly one. [ speaking koine Greek ] Orthodox priests
do the religious "heavy lifting" behind this screen
where the bible's kept. Orthodox icons,
stylized paintings of saints, are packed
with intricate symbolism. Cast against a gold
or a silver background, they're meant
to remind viewers of the spiritual nature
of Jesus and the saints, rather than
their physical form. Traditional
Orthodox worshippers stand through the service
as a sign of respect. Orthodox worship
generally involves chanting, and the church is filled
with the evocative aroma of incense. Through these the elements,
the mass attempts to create an actual religious experience,
to help the worshipper transcend the physical world
and enter into communion with the spiritual one. A short drive eastward
through the mountains takes us to the magnificent island fortress of Monemvasia. Often referred to as
the "Gibraltar of Greece," this is a virtual showcase
of Byzantine, Ottoman, and Venetian history,
dating back to the 13th century. Its historic causeway
is still the only way on or off this
burly chunk of land. The town's fortified gate
opens onto Monemvasia's narrow cobbled main street, which meanders uphill
past an assortment of tourist shops and cafes with terraces overlooking
the mediterranean sea. In the 14th century,
the fortress of Monemvasia was also
a prosperous trading center. In its day,
it was one of the great commercial centers
of the Byzantine world, with a population
of about 40,000. A key strategic holding,
it was occupied back-and-forth
between the Venetians and the Turks
until modern times. Monemvasia then
slipped into a decline that lasted until tourists rediscovered the place
in the 1970s. Many of the town's houses
have been restored and are used as weekend retreats
by wealthy Athenians. A steep zig-zag path
leads up and up out of the lower town. Passing through
the old town gate, you enter
the fortified upper town. Its ruins sprawl across
the broad summit of the rock. In its day,
Monemvasia was considered the mightiest fortress in Byzantine Greece. Not surprisingly,
it was never taken in battle, but it was
susceptible to siege. Its greatest weakness
was its reliance on the mainland
for food and water. The fortress'
only surviving building is the 13th-century
Byzantine Church of St. Sophia, hanging precariously to the edge
of a sheer cliff, it strikes me as a metaphor for the resilience
of traditional culture in our modern world. A multifaceted history,
welcoming people, delicious food,
and dramatic vistas. The Peloponnesian Peninsula
has it all. Thanks for joining us. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time,
keep on travelin'.
