Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the
Best of Europe. This time we're navigating the Adriatic and a lot more. It's Croatia.
Thanks for joining us. Croatia is a fascinating land with a hard-fought
history in a complex corner of Europe. And as travelers are rediscovering its charms,
it's emerging as one of Europe's top destinations. Exploring Croatia, we'll see the Pearl of
the Adriatic, sample some island charm, wander Roman ruins, and hike through a watery wonderland.
We'll enjoy its thriving capital city, the Italian-like charm of Istria, and that peninsula's
enchanting port town. Yugoslavia filled much of Europe's Balkan
Peninsula during most of the 20th century. When Yugoslavia broke up into separate countries
in the 1990s, Croatia wound up with most of its coastline. We start south in Dubrovnik,
sail along the Dalmatian Coast, stopping at Korcula and Hvar en route to Split. After
exploring Plitvice Lakes National Park and the capital city of Zagreb, we travel to the
Istrian peninsula, to Rovinj. Spectacularly set Dubrovnik is both historic
and a hit with tourists. It's understandably Croatia's top draw. Whether surveying its stout walls, joining
the promenade along its main drag, or appreciating its former glory, it's clear this city was
a major power in the past and is a major draw today. Exploring its evocative back lanes,
relaxing on its pebbly beaches, or just pondering its majestic setting...Dubrovnik is simply
delightful. Dubrovnik is the Pearl of the Adriatic. In
fact, we'll cover it in more detail in another episode. For this program, we'll leave the
crowds of Dubrovnik and explore the less-appreciated corners of Croatia. Boats, big and small, connect Dubrovnik to
the rest of Croatia. We're setting sail along the scenic Dalmatian Coast with its countless
islands. They're all variations on the same theme - rugged limestone features with historic
port towns and sparsely populated interiors. The rocky soil and persistent sun are good
for grapes. And the pebbly beaches with crystal clear water are both pristine and inviting. We're visiting two islands and first up is
Korčula. Visitors enjoy its "mini-Dubrovnik" vibe. You'll find a fortified peninsula under
a striking mountain backdrop. In the Old Town, narrow lanes come with an easygoing charm. Like other Croatian coastal towns, Korčula
has two parts: The functional, practical side - where most people park, eat, and sleep - and
the time-warp old town. Rather than stay in a big resort hotel, I'm
staying in a sobe - that's a room rented in a private home. I called ahead and my hosts,
Lenni and Peter, met me at the boat. They rent six rooms in their house buried deep
in Korcula's old town. A 500 year old building can be tight. This room may be small, but it's comfortable,
air-conditioned, and half the price of a hotel. And a great location...they claim Marco Polo
lived just up the street. The town's charms are all within a few steps.
The historic gate is a reminder that Korcula was once a mighty little place. Façades recall
its 14th century trading heyday. Each lane contributes to the evocative medieval townscape,
dripping with drying laundry and local character. You can savor it all over a cup of coffee. If you want to enjoy the Croatian café scene,
it helps to know a few words. For a latte, it's "bejila kava." That's white coffee. We're setting sail again. Both lumbering car
ferries and sleek cruise ships carry Dalmatia's many visitors efficiently from port to port. In ancient times Greeks and Romans sailed
up and down this coastline - establishing many trade settlements. The island of Hvar
was settled and named by the Greeks in the 4th century BC. The island's main town, also named Hvar, nestles
under its formidable fortress. Its handy boat connections make this a popular stop. While
mobbed with tourists in peak season, we're here in late May and it's more sleepy than
chic. Like most major towns along the Adriatic coastline,
the fortified harbor of Hvar was a strategic link in a vast 16th century Venetian trading
Empire. Its fortress, walls, tower, and palaces all built by and for the Venetians. Activities are low energy. Expertly enjoying
this town, seemingly made for relaxing, yachters stern tie into the good life. Visitors nurse
drinks on the main square. Stroll the back lanes...where you may come upon a musical
surprise. Local a cappella choirs perform Klapa music
- the quintessential Dalmatian folk music. Every town has their all male Klapa choir.
These songs of seafaring life, of loves lost and loves found, stir the souls of Croatians
and visitors alike. (A capella choir singing.)
Rick: Bravo. Yeah. When it comes to mealtime, here on the coast,
it's gotta be seafood. Hardworking restaurants seem to abide by the local creed: eating meat
is food...eating fish, that's pleasure. Our waiter reminded us that a fish should swim
three times: first in the sea, then in olive oil, and finally in wine. After a little island-hopping, approaching
urban Split - Croatia's "second city" - feels like a return to civilization. So many Dalmatian
Coast towns feel tailor made for tourism, Split is a serious port. It's vibrant with
or without its visitors. Split feels modern. But, a close look at the
surviving façade of a Roman palace fronting its harbor reveals the city's ancient roots.
Today's residents are literally living in a Roman emperor's palace. In the fourth century
a.d., when Roman Emperor Diocletian retired, he built a vast residence for his golden years
here in his native Dalmatia. When Rome fell, Diocletian's palace was abandoned. Eventually,
a medieval town sprouted from its abandoned shell. And, to this day, the maze of narrow
alleys - once literally Diocletian's hallways - makes up the core of Split. Local guide Maya Benzon is joining us to help
explain the story behind her hometown. Maya: The palace was huge, 200 meters on each
side and these were just the basements so you can imagine what was on the upper floor.
Roman engineers could build anything. Rick: So they had concrete, they had bricks
round arches, they had the technology. Maya: Yes, they had the technology and they
had the slaves. Rick: Cheap labor.
Maya: Yes. Nearby a grand underground hallway now used
as a shopping arcade leads to Diocletian's vestibule. Maya: This is the grand entryway towards Diocletian's
private area, private quarters. Roman emperors called themselves the gods. And Diocletian
called himself Jovius, son of the god Jupiter. People worship him so they were kissing his
robe. They treated him like a god on earth. Diocletian's mausoleum dominated the center
of the palace complex. Much of the original Roman building survives - the impressive dome,
columns and capitals, and fine carved reliefs. Diocletian was notorious for persecuting Christians.
But centuries later, in the Middle Ages his mausoleum was converted into a cathedral.
And so, ironically, what Diocletian built to glorify his memory is used instead to remember
his victims - Christian martyrs...like this one who was tied to a mill stone and tossed
into the sea. A few steps away is a temple dedicated to
Jupiter. Rick: This is all part of Diocletian's Palace
complex? Maya: Yes, we are still walking in the area
of Diocletian's palace and you know Diocletian was Jovius. And here in the middle of the
palace he erected the house for his father, this is Jupiter's temple and for a Roman building
it's very rare that it's completely preserved with the ceiling, with the roof. So on the
ceiling you can see really nice Roman carvings. You can see some faces, some flowers. Later
on during the history of the Middle Ages this was converted into the church so this was
the medieval baptistery. We have St. John the Baptist and here we have the baptismal
font. And we have this curious panel here in the front. We have Croatian king from the
11th century. We have a bishop standing just next to him and underneath his feet we have
a citizen. Rick: So you've got the secular power, the
religious power and the people respecting the power.
Maya: That would be it. Because this is a baptistery, here we have a statue of St. John
the Baptist. This is a modern work of the 20th century made by the greatest Croatian
sculpturist ever, Ivan Musturich. A highlight for me is simply people watching.
The sea of Croatian humanity laps at the walls of Diocletian's Palace along the pedestrian
promenade or Riva. As on similar promenades throughout the Mediterranean world, the cars
have made way for the people. Strolling locals finish their days in good style...just enjoying
life's simple pleasures in a city made friendly for its residents. While the coast is Croatia's main draw, some
of its best attractions are inland. We're delving into the Croatian heartland. One of Europe's top natural wonders is Plitvice
Lakes National Park. Imagine Niagara Falls sliced and diced and sprinkled over a vast
and heavily forested canyon. It's a lush and unforgettable valley of 16 terraced lakes,
laced together by waterfalls and miles of pleasant plank walks. Boats glide visitors into the heart of the
park. Countless cascades and water that's strangely clear yet full of vibrant colors
make Plitvice a misty natural wonderland. Fish seem to know there's not a hook for miles.
Carefully maintained trails and boardwalks let you get intimate with the wonder of the
place. Observant nature lovers can choose from hundreds of flower types to assemble
a photographic bouquet. The stony formations drip down like the foliage
because the grass and moss both direct the flow of the water and provide a kind of scaffolding
for the slow and steady calcification process. Naturalists call Plitvice a "perfect storm"
of geological, climatic, and biological features. The magic ingredient: calcium carbonate, a
mineral deposit from the limestone that gets dissolved into the water, then re-deposited
- continually breaking down natural travertine dams...and building up new ones. Tranquil as this park is, it was here, in
1991, that the first shots of Croatia's war with Yugoslavia were fired. And, if you know
where to look, evidence of the war survives. When Croatia declared its independence from
Yugoslavia in 1991, its Serb minority - about 10 percent of the population - was concerned
about its rights. So they broke away from the new state of Croatia, which plunged the
region into four years of war. While the war barely touched the coastline,
here in the interior - which had a sizable Serb minority - the fighting was devastating. In towns like Otocac bullet holes still mar
facades. These scars reflect the brutal house-to-house fighting that characterized the war. Seeing
bomb-damaged homes rebuilt, makes you ponder loss, resilience and hope. The Croats' Catholic
Church, once shelled and now repaired, has a poignant memorial in its garden: Christ
crucified on a cross of artillery shells. Taking a little extra time to wander through
town gives an insight into people moving on with their lives. While a few Serbs are returning, the reality
is the war changed the ethnic make-up of Croatia forever. As disturbing as these reminders
of war are, it is uplifting to be here and to actually see how well the country's putting
itself back together. Our next stop: the capital city...Zagreb.
You can't get a complete picture of modern Croatia without a visit here. This lively
and livable city is home to one out of every six Croatians. Jelačić Square - the "Times Square" of Zagreb
- is boisterous with modern commerce and local life. The statue depicts the square's namesake,
Josip Jelačić - the 19th-century national hero who still inspires Croatians today. Seeing the city buzz with activity, you feel
the energy of urban Croatia. Night or day, the streets are a parade of stylish locals
- confident and looking good. The people-friendly business zone comes with the energy and bustle
you'd expect to find in any prosperous European capital. Whether you're enjoying an outdoor
café, window-shopping, or just lounging in one of the city's many inviting parks, Zagreb
makes you wonder "where are all the tourists." Zagreb's historic upper town blankets a hill.
Its main square is home to Croatia's government. The national parliament building flies both
the Croatian and European flags. Dominating the square is the Church of St. Mark - with
the colorfully tiled roof depicting both the coat of arms of Croatia and the city seal
of Zagreb. Nearby is the Croatian Museum of Naive Art.
This charming collection features lyrical landscapes and village scenes painted in the
mid-20th-century by self-taught peasant artists. While some are on canvas, most are painted
on glass - a cheap and readily available material that was easier to work on. Naïve art is created by untrained artists
isolated from the artistic mainstream. They painted in a figurative way while the rest
of the artistic world was embracing an increasingly abstract style. Generalic, shown here in a self-portrait,
was the father of the Croatian Naive art movement. In 1953, he took his art to a show in Paris
as a relative unknown. He was a huge hit, sold everything, and came home rich and famous. These Croatian Naïve artists were outsiders
- sought out by art world insiders to validate their notion that artistic ability was more
than a learned skill, it was an inborn talent. In places such as rural Croatia, medieval
lifestyles survived well into the 20th century. You see a lot of winter scenes because these
artists were farmers first...busy tending their fields through the growing season. They
painted their village world...isolated from the modern world. In a complex age, many urbanites
found this art refreshing for its brute simplicity. Tucked inside Zagreb's only surviving town
gate is an evocative chapel. The focal point is a painting of Mary that miraculously survived
a fire in 1731. People, young and old, passing through, stop here briefly to worship. Pausing
reverently, the faithful bring their concerns to Mary. The many candles represent Zagrebian
prayers. Smoke-stained plaques on the wall give thanks - hvala - for prayers answered. Just down the road, is a thriving pedestrian
zone - Zagreb's main café street and urban promenade. Comfy seating encourages people
to slow down and enjoy each other's company. Sitting here, it's clear...Zagrebians love
their city. Thanks to new freeways, the Istrian Peninsula,
in Croatia's northwest corner, is just a couple hours drive from the capital. In the Istrian interior you'll find a thickly
forested landscape of rolling hills and family farms. Istria is dotted with picturesque hill
towns, striped with vineyards, and busy with hard-working farmers. Dramatically situated high above the vineyards,
Motovun is Istria's most popular hill town. Its modest main square is the only flat place
in town - ideal for budding soccer stars. The church's crenellated tower is a reminder
that these towns were built on hilltops not for the view but for protection. But today,
strolling the ramparts, it's clear: the panorama is a big part of the town's appeal. As the
day ends, the square is made to order for al fresco dining. I find that, sometimes, the best experiences
don't come to you...you need to find them. An after dinner stroll with a sense of curiosity
gets me a seat at the rehearsal of the local klapa group. (A capella choir singing.) A short drive to the coast takes us to Rovinj
- my favorite stop between Dubrovnik and Venice. The town rises dramatically from the Adriatic
- as if being pulled up to heaven by its grand bell tower. The church that crowns Rovinj is dedicated
to the 4th century martyr St. Euphemia - her statue functions as a weather vane. Scaling
the church bell tower's creaky wooden stairway requires an enduring faith in the reliability
of wood. From the top is a commanding view...and, if you're here at high noon, an ear-splitting
memory. The town's history created its current shape:
Medieval Rovinj was a walled island. Because it offered safe harbor from both pirates and
the plague, Rovinj became extremely crowded. That explains today's pleasantly claustrophobic
Old Town. Like the rest of the Croatian coast, Rovinj
was part of the Venetian Empire for centuries. And Istria remained part of Italy until after
WWII. That's why this region is enthusiastically bi-lingual an engaging mix of Croatia and
Italy. Rovinj's vibrant market is a fun place to
shop for a picnic and snack on free samples. Rick: Ora? Ora.
Saleswoman: Ora. Rick: ...Nice, thank you. It also has a gifty corner where salesmen
tempt visiting tourists with the local specialties. Rick: So white truffle paste.
Salesman: Yes, white truffle, yes Rick: Very nice. Dobro.
Salesman: Thank you. Rick: No souvenir, eat it, okay?
Salesman: Alright thank you. The twisting back lanes of crumbling old Rovinj
seem designed for a photo safari: arches span narrow alleys which open into hidden courtyards.
The "main drag" leading up to the top of the island is lined with art galleries. Understandably,
artists love Rovinj. And so do romantics. At the Valentino Bar
the Old Town tumbles right into the sea. It's a memorable place to cap your Rovinj day.
Grab a cushion and settle into a cozy stone nook. Enjoy a drink, your travel partner...and
the Adriatic sunset. Croatia is clearly coming into its own. With
each visit I'm impressed by its complexity, its natural wonders, and its vibrant spirit.
Thanks for joining us. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time, keep on travelin'. Credits: This time we're trying to figure out how to
eat the scampi in Croatia. They painted in a figurative style. They pained in a figurative way while the
rest of the art world was embracing an increasingly abstract style [laugh].
