BONJOUR,
I'M RICK STEVES, BACK WITH MORE
OF THE BEST OF EUROPE. THIS TIME, IT'S YACHTS,
CASINOS, AND FANCY VILLAS. FUN IN THE SUN
ON THE FRENCH RIVIERA. THANKS FOR JOINING US. IN EUROPE IS HERE
ON THE COTE d'AZUR, OR THE FRENCH RIVIERA. AND AFTER SOAKING UP MORE THAN
OUR SHARE OF SUN, WE'LL SEE HOW THIS GLITTERING STRETCH
OF FRANCE'S MEDITERRANEAN COAST OFFERS MORE THAN JUST
A FIRST-CLASS BEACH BREAK. BUT DON'T GET ME WRONG. WE WILL ENJOY THE BEACH,
FROM HIGH-END RESORTS TO HIDDEN JEWELS
OF THE COTE d'AZUR. WE'LL WANDER THE GARDENS
OF A 19th-CENTURY VILLA, ZIP UP THE CORNICHE TO SEE A TROPHY
OF THE CONQUERING ROMANS, REFLECT ON THE LIGHT AND COLOR
OF MODERN MASTERS, GO POSH WITH THE GLAMOUR SET, RELAX IN ANTIBES AND THEN FEAST
ON BOUILLABAISSE. WHEN EUROPE HEADS
FOR THE BEACH, IT OFTEN ENDS UP
ON THE SOUTH COAST OF FRANCE, THE COTE d'AZUR. WE'LL START IN NICE, CHECK OUT VILLEFRANCHE
AND CAP FERRAT, RACE OVER TO MONACO, VISIT CANNES AND FINISH IN ANTIBES. IN THE 19th CENTURY, ARISTOCRATS
FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW FLOCKED TO FRANCE'S SUNNY
COTE d'AZUR, OR BLUE COAST. MUCH LOVED FOR ITS BLUE SEAS
AND BLUE SKIES, THIS WAS THE PLACE
FOR NORTHERN EUROPEANS TO SOCIALIZE, GAMBLE
AND ESCAPE THEIR DREARY WEATHER. WHETHER YOU'RE RICH
OR NOT, NICE, WITH ITS ETERNALLY ENTERTAINING
SEAFRONT PROMENADE AND FINE MUSEUMS,
IS THE ENJOYABLE BIG-CITY HIGHLIGHT
OF THE RIVIERA. IN ITS TRAFFIC-FREE OLD CITY,
ITALIAN AND FRENCH FLAVORS MIX TO CREATE A SPICY
MEDITERRANEAN DRESSING. NICE MAY BE NICE, BUT IT'S HOT AND JAMMED
IN JULY AND AUGUST. WE'RE HERE IN EARLY JUNE, BEATING THE SERIOUS HEAT
AND CROWDS. THE BROAD
PROMENADE des ANGLAIS, LITERALLY, THE "WALKWAY
OF THE ENGLISH," WAS PAVED IN MARBLE FOR BLUE-BLOODED 19th-CENTURY
ENGLISH TOURISTS WHO WANTED A SAFE PLACE
TO STROLL AND ADMIRE THE VIEW WITHOUT GETTING
THEIR SHOES DIRTY OR SMELLING THAT FISHY GRAVEL. TODAY, IT'S A FUN
PEOPLE'S SCENE WITH A BIKE
AND ROLLER BLADE PATH THAT LEADS ALL THE WAY
TO THE AIRPORT. THE BEACH, WHILE PEBBLY,
IS POPULAR. WHETHER YOU'RE LOOKING
FOR AN ADRENALINE RUSH OR JUST WORKING ON YOUR SUNTAN,
THIS BEACH HAS IT ALL. TAN LINES CAN BE HARD TO FIND AS EUROPEANS ARE RELAXED
ABOUT TOPLESS SUNBATHING. WHILE MAJOR STRETCHES
OF THE BEACH ARE PUBLIC, MUCH OF IT IS PRIVATE,
WHERE YOU PAY TO RENT A SPOT, COMPLETE WITH MATTRESS,
LOUNGE CHAIR AND UMBRELLA. FOR A PARTICULARLY
SCENIC LUNCH, YOU CAN EAT ON THE BEACH. I'M HAVING A salade niçoise,
THE HEARTY LOCAL STANDARD WITH ANCHOVIES, TUNA,
HARD-BOILED EGGS AND TASTY LITTLE
niçoise OLIVES. GRACEFUL BUILDINGS FROM
THE TURN OF THE LAST CENTURY LEAD IN FROM THE BEACH,
REMINDERS OF THE Belle Epoque, LITERALLY, "THE BEAUTIFUL AGE," WHEN THE WORLD SEEMED TO
REVOLVE AROUND THE UPPER CLASS AND INDULGENCE WITH ABANDON
WAS A LIFE-STYLE. NICE'S GRAND OPERA HOUSE ILLUSTRATES THE BEAUTIFUL
EXTRAVAGANCE OF THIS ERA. IMAGINE THIS OPULENT JEWEL BURIED DEEP IN THE OLD TOWN
OF NICE WAY BACK THEN. WITH EUROPE'S ELITE
WINTERING HERE, THE ROUGH-EDGED TOWN NEEDED
SOME HIGH-CLASS ENTERTAINMENT. A PRIME EXAMPLE
OF Belle Epoque LUXURY IS THE MAJESTIC
HOTEL NEGRESCO. IT OFFERS SOME OF THE CITY'S
MOST EXPENSIVE BEDS AND A CHANCE TO STEP BACK INTO THAT AGE
OF EXTREME REFINEMENT. THE EXQUISITE ROYAL SALON
COMBINES Belle Epoque GRACE WITH ENGINEERING BY THE GREAT
FRENCH ARCHITECT GUSTAV EIFFEL. THE CHANDELIER IS MADE
OF 16,000 PIECES OF CRYSTAL. IT WAS BUILT IN FRANCE FOR THE
RUSSIAN CZAR'S MOSCOW PALACE; BUT, BECAUSE OF THE BOLSHEVIK
REVOLUTION, HE COULDN'T TAKE DELIVERY. MANY OF NICE'S EARLY VISITORS
WERE RUSSIANS, AND THE CITY'S RUSSIAN ORTHODOX
CHURCH CLAIMS TO BE THE FINEST THIS SIDE OF THE VOLGA. FIVE HUNDRED RICH RUSSIAN
FAMILIES WINTERED IN NICE AND NEEDED A WORTHY
ORTHODOX HOUSE OF WORSHIP. CZAR NICHOLAS THE SECOND
GAVE THIS CHURCH TO THE RUSSIAN COMMUNITY HERE
IN 1912. A FEW YEARS LATER,
RUSSIAN COMRADES, WHO DIDN'T WINTER
ON THE RIVIERA, SHOT HIM. HERE IN THE LAND
OF OLIVES AND ANCHOVIES, THE CHURCH'S PROUD ONION DOMES
SEEM OUT OF PLACE. BUT, I IMAGINE,
SO DID THOSE RUSSIANS. [ Orthodox choir singing ] THE INTERIOR IS FILLED
WITH ICONS AND CANDLES. THE ICON WALL DIVIDES THE TEMPORAL WORLD
OF THE WORSHIPPERS FROM THE SPIRITUAL WORLD
BEHIND IT. THE ANGEL, WITH RED BOOTS
AND WINGS, IS THE PROTECTOR OF RUSSIA'S
RULING ROMANOV FAMILY. THE HAMMERED-COPPER CROSS
COMMEMORATES THE MASSACRE OF THE CZAR AND HIS FAMILY
IN 1918. THE ICON OF THE VIRGIN
AND CHILD IS DECORATED WITH SILVER
AND SEMI-PRECIOUS STONES. A PRIEST HERE TOLD ME THAT,
AS THE WORSHIPPER MEDITATES, STARING DEEP INTO THE EYES
OF AN ICON, HE ENTERS A LAKE,
WHERE HE FINDS HIS SOUL. NICE WAS BORN
ON ITS EASY-TO-FORTIFY HILL. FROM THERE,
AND INLAND FROM THE BEACH, SPREADS ITS COLORFUL
OLD TOWN. THE OLD TOWN SQUARES FEEL MORE
ITALIAN THAN FRENCH BECAUSE, UNTIL 1860, NICE WAS RULED
BY AN ITALIAN KING. UNTIL THE MID-1800s, THE PEOPLE
HERE SPOKE AN ITALIAN DIALECT. STREET SIGNS ARE STILL
IN TWO LANGUAGES AND PASTA IS STILL
A FAVORITE. NICE'S ITALIAN RULERS LIVED
IN THIS PALACE. AS THE MODERN NATION OF ITALY
WAS BEING CREATED, THIS REGION WAS GIVEN A CHOICE: JOIN THE CHAOTIC NEW COUNTRY
OF ITALY, OR JOIN WEALTHY FRANCE,
WHICH WAS ENJOYING GOOD TIMES UNDER THE RULE
OF NAPOLEON THE THIRD. THE VAST MAJORITY OF THE PEOPLE
VOTED TO GO FRENCH, AND voilà. THE OLD TOWN OFFERS A CULTURAL SCAVENGER HUNT
OF OPPORTUNITIES. FROM ITS MEDIEVAL MARKET SQUARE
WITH FRESH SEASONAL PRODUCE, TO A PASTA SHOP SHOWING NICE'S
ITALIAN ROOTS, TO THE NEARBY
PATISSERIE AUER. ITS Belle Epoque STOREFRONT
BRAGS THAT IT'S BEEN RUN FROM FATHER TO SON SINCE 1820. QUEEN VICTORIA SATISFIED
HER SWEET TOOTH RIGHT HERE. Socca, A THIN CHICKPEA CREPE, SEASONED WITH PEPPER
AND OLIVE OIL, IS A PEASANT'S STAPLE
PREDATING TOURISM THAT'S STILL DEAR
TO LOCAL HEARTS. AT THIS BUSY STAND, THE socca
ARRIVES BY MOTOR BIKE, HOT OUT OF THE OVEN, AND IT'S
SOLD AND GOBBLED UP AS QUICKLY
AS THEY CAN SLICE IT. FLOWERS SEEM TO GROW
EFFORTLESSLY AND EVERYWHERE IN THIS IDEAL CLIMATE. THIS HAS LONG BEEN THE RIVIERA'S
BIGGEST FLOWER MARKET. FRESH FLOWERS ARE A FINE VALUE
IN THIS OTHERWISE PRICEY CITY. AND WITH SUCH AN ABUNDANCE
OF FLOWERS, IT'S NO WONDER PERFUME
IS A LOCAL INDUSTRY. THE MOLINARD FAMILY
HAS BEEN MAKING PERFUME FROM COTE d'AZUR FLOWERS
FOR A CENTURY. PERFUME IS DISTILLED
LIKE COGNAC AND THEN AGED LIKE WINE. IT TAKES MORE THAN 400 POUNDS
OF LAVENDER TO PRODUCE JUST ONE QUART
OF PURE ESSENCE. FOR THE FRENCH, FINDING JUST THE RIGHT PERFUME
IS A PERSONAL QUEST. BECAUSE SO MANY GREAT
20th-CENTURY ARTISTS CHOSE TO LIVE AND WORK HERE,
THE RIVIERA IS STUDDED WITH WORLD-CLASS
MODERN ART MUSEUMS. HENRI MATISSE, MARC CHAGALL,
PABLO PICASSO AND MANY OTHERS RAVED ABOUT THE REGION'S LIGHT
AND VIVID COLORS. THEY WERE CHARMED
BY THE SIMPLE LIFE-STYLES OF FISHERMEN AND VILLAGERS. THE ARTISTS' COLORFUL
AND SEMI-ABSTRACT WORKS REFLECT THE SLEEPY,
MORE DREAMY RIVIERA BEFORE ALL THE DEVELOPMENT HIT. THEY SETTLED HERE IN THE SUN AND PAINTED
WITH WIDE-EYED WONDER. THE MATISSE MUSEUM OFFERS
A FASCINATING INTRODUCTION TO MODERN ART INSPIRED
BY THE FRENCH RIVIERA. HENRI MATISSE OPENED A WINDOW
ONTO PARADISE. ARMED WITH THE BRIGHT COLORS
OF THE IMPRESSIONISTS, MATISSE CAPTURED THE RADIANT
RIVIERA OF THE 1920s: SEASCAPES, FRUIT, FLOWERS
AND CURVACEOUS WOMEN. MATISSE WAS THE MASTER
OF LEAVING THINGS OUT, LETTING US FILL IN THE REST. MATISSE PAINTED
THE THREE-DIMENSIONAL WORLD AS A TWO-DIMENSIONAL PATTERN
OF VIBRANT COLORS. YOU DON'T LOOK THROUGH MATISSE
ART LIKE A WINDOW; YOU LOOK AT IT. YOU CAN TRACE HIS WORK
AS IT EVOLVES. IT BECAME SIMPLER WITH TIME,
FROM DETAILED REALISM, TO A COLORFUL
IMPRESSIONISTIC STYLE, TO BOLD BLOCKS
OF BRIGHT COLORS, TO EVER SIMPLER FORMS, PARING IMAGES DOWN
TO TWO BASIC ELEMENTS: LINE AND COLOR. HIS SERIES CALLED JAZZ,
LIKE THE MUSIC, CELEBRATES ARTISTIC SPONTANEITY AND THE OTHERWORLDLY BEAUTY
THAT ART CAN CREATE. MATISSE ENJOYED A LONG
AND CONTINUALLY EVOLVING CAREER. IN HIS 70s, FIGHTING CANCER
AND CONFINED TO A WHEELCHAIR, HE TRADED EASEL PAINTING
FOR A NEW MEDIUM: PAPER CUT-OUTS. THE CUT-OUTS ARE A SINGLE COLOR
WITH A STRONG OUTLINE. SCISSORS IN HAND,
MATISSE SAID, "I CUT STRAIGHT
INTO THE COLOR." THE CHAGALL MUSEUM IS NEARBY. STARTING IN THE 1950s, MARC CHAGALL PAINTED
A CYCLE OF CANVASSES DESIGNED FOR THIS BUILDING. EVEN IF YOU'RE SUSPICIOUS
OF MODERN ART, THIS MUSEUM, WITH THE LARGEST COLLECTION
OF CHAGALL'S WORK IN CAPTIVITY, IS A DELIGHT. SEVENTEEN BIBLICAL SCENES
MAKE UP THE NAVE, OR CORE, OF WHAT CHAGALL CALLED
"THE HOUSE OF BROTHERHOOD." EACH PAINTING IS
A LIGHTER-THAN-AIR COLLAGE OF IMAGES INSPIRED BY CHAGALL'S
RUSSIAN FOLK VILLAGE YOUTH, HIS JEWISH HERITAGE,
BIBLICAL THEMES AND HIS FEELING THAT HE EXISTED SOMEWHERE
BETWEEN HEAVEN AND EARTH. CHAGALL PAINTS A WORLD
THAT'S HIDDEN TO THE EYE: THE MAGICAL, MYSTICAL WORLD
BELOW THE SURFACE. HE BLENDS PERSONAL IMAGERY, PARTICULARLY FROM HIS CHILDHOOD
IN RUSSIA; THE HASIDIC JEWISH PERSPECTIVE
HE ABSORBED AS A CHILD -- THAT'S THE IDEA
THAT GOD'S EVERYWHERE, IN NATURE, ANIMALS
AND EVERYDAY THINGS; GRAVITY-DEFYING COMPOSITIONS, WITH LOVERS, ANIMALS AND ANGELS
TWIRLING BLISSFULLY IN MIDAIR; AND CHILDLIKE SIMPLICITY --
SIMPLE, HEAVY OUTLINES, OFTEN SPILLING OVER
WITH CRAYOLA COLORS. CHAGALL SAW THE BIBLE
AS A SYNONYM FOR NATURE. HIS BRILLIANT BLUES AND REDS CELEBRATE NATURE
AND ITS CREATOR. HIS COUPLES ARE ENCHANTING. TO CHAGALL,
HUMANS LOVING EACH OTHER MIRRORED GOD'S LOVE
OF CREATION. HE WROTE, "IN ART
AS WELL AS IN LIFE, ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE,
PROVIDED THERE IS LOVE." THE SNUG PORT OF VILLEFRANCHE, IN SPITE OF THE LUXURY YACHTS
GLISTENING IN ITS BAY, OFFERS TRAVELERS
AN EASYGOING SLICE OF SMALL-TOWN
MEDITERRANEAN LIFE JUST MINUTES FROM THE BUSTLE
OF NICE AND JET-SETTY MONACO. THIS TOWN FEELS ITALIAN,
WITH SOFT ORANGE BUILDINGS, STEEP, NARROW STREETS AND ITS PASTEL HARBOR. WHEN THE ORIGINAL ANCIENT PORT
WAS OVERTAKEN BY PIRATES, ITS VILLAGERS
FLED INTO THE HILLS. LATER, IN THE 13th CENTURY,
THE KING WANTED TO REINHABIT AND THEREFORE
STRENGTHEN HIS COASTLINE. TO ENCOURAGE THE VILLAGERS, HE GRANTED THE TOWN TAX-FREE
STATUS AND THIS PLACE BECAME "VILLE," TOWN,
"FRANCHE," WITHOUT TAXES... VILLEFRANCHE. VILLEFRANCHE WAS PROTECTED
BY AN IMMENSE CITADEL. TODAY, BECAUSE MOST
OF ITS 8,000 PEOPLE CALL THIS THEIR PRIMARY RESIDENCE, VILLEFRANCHE FEELS MORE
LIKE A REAL COMMUNITY THAN NEIGHBORING RIVIERA TOWNS. ONLY A FEW FAMILIES
STILL FISH FOR A LIVING. BUT HUGE YACHTS
CALL THIS BAY HOME. THIS STRETCH OF COAST IS STUDDED WITH THE FLOATING
TOYS OF MULTIMILLIONAIRES. LOCALS KEEP TRACK
OF THE WORLD'S BIGGEST YACHTS AND TALK ABOUT THEM LIKE THEY'RE PART
OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD. YOU NEVER KNOW WHOSE STERN LINE
YOU MAY BE CATCHING. HERE'S THE LADY MOURA. MOURA IS AN EX-WIFE
OF SAUDI ARABIA'S KING FAHD. SOME OF THE RIVIERA'S
PRICIEST REAL ESTATE STRETCHES FROM VILLEFRANCHE
TO MONACO. CAP FERRAT,
AN EXTREMELY EXCLUSIVE, LARGELY RESIDENTIAL COMMUNITY,
FILLS A PARK-LIKE PENINSULA. WHILE YOU'LL NEVER GET PAST
ANY OF THESE GATES, YOU CAN SPEND A DELIGHTFUL DAY
HERE JUST STROLLING, AND THIS AIN'T YOUR AVERAGE
JOGGING TRAIL. FOLLOWING ITS
WELL-GROOMED PATH, YOU CAN STUMBLE
UPON A HIDDEN LITTLE BEACH... GET A GLIMPSE
OF DAVID NIVEN'S HOME... WANDER THE RITZY PORT
OF ST. JEAN-CAP-FERRAT, AND TOUR THE ULTIMATE
RIVIERA MANSION AND GARDENS: THE ROTHSCHILD EPHRUSSI VILLA. THE EXTRAVAGANCE OF VENICE,
VERSAILLES AND THE COTE d'AZUR ALL COME TOGETHER
IN THIS VILLA. ITS LAVISH Belle Epoque
INTERIOR OFFERS A PEEK INTO THE LIFE OF THE RICH
AND ECCENTRIC BARONESS de ROTHSCHILD. BUILDING THIS PALACE, THE BARONESS
WENT THROUGH TEN ARCHITECTS. HER FURNISHINGS
WERE FIT FOR A QUEEN. IMAGINE THE CORRESPONDENCE
COMPOSED AT HER PERSONAL
LETTER-WRITING DESK. LADY ROTHSCHILD'S
SENSE OF STYLE SPILLED INTO HER BACKYARD,
A MANY-FACETED GARDEN. SHE DREW INSPIRATION
FROM HER TRAVELS ABROAD: A FRAGRANT ENGLISH ROSE GARDEN, AN EXOTIC FANTASY OF CACTUS, A MYSTERIOUS GOTHIC
STONE GARDEN, AND A TRANQUIL JAPANESE GARDEN. OVERLOOKING EVERYTHING: "THE TEMPLE OF LOVE." THIS REGION'S
BREATHTAKING COASTLINE IS TRAVERSED
BY THREE COASTAL ROUTES: THE LOW, MIDDLE
AND HIGH CORNICHE. THE LOW CORNICHE STRINGS PORTS,
BEACHES AND VILLAGES TOGETHER. IT WAS BUILT IN THE 1860s,
ALONG WITH THE TRAIN LINE, TO BRING PEOPLE TO THE CASINO
IN NEARBY MONTE CARLO. THE MIDDLE CORNICHE COMES
WITH VIEWS OF IMPRESSIVE VILLAS AND THE GRAND CORNICHE
CAPS THE CLIFFS WITH STAGGERING
MEDITERRANEAN VISTAS. WHILE HAILED AS NAPOLEON'S CROWNING ROAD CONSTRUCTION
ACHIEVEMENT, IT ACTUALLY SITS
UPON THE VIA AURELIA, A ROAD BUILT
BY THE ANCIENT ROMANS AS THEY CONQUERED THE WEST. A TOWERING ROMAN RUIN
CELEBRATES THAT CONQUEST. CAESAR AUGUSTUS BUILT
"THE TROPHY OF THE ALPES" TO COMMEMORATE HIS DEFEAT OF THE REGION'S
MANY HOSTILE TRIBES. WITH THIS VICTORY, THE
COMPLETION OF THE MAIN ARTERY CONNECTING ITALY AND SPAIN
WAS MADE POSSIBLE. THIS OPENED THE WAY
FOR THE CONTINUED EXPANSION OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE. THE INSCRIPTION
TELLS THE STORY: IT WAS ERECTED BY THE SENATE
AND THE PEOPLE TO HONOR THE EMPEROR. CARVED BELOW IS AN INVENTORY OF
ALL THE FEISTY BARBARIAN TRIBES THAT PUT UP SUCH A FIGHT. AND ON EITHER SIDE
ARE THE VANQUISHED IN CHAINS AT THE FEET OF THEIR CONQUEROR, A REMINDER TO ANY WHO WOULD
CHALLENGE THE EMPIRE. NEARBY, STANDING HIGH
ABOVE THE SEA, IS TOURISTY
BUT MAGNIFICENT EZE. THE ONCE-FORMIDABLE TOWN GATE, DESIGNED TO KEEP
RAMPAGING PIRATES OUT, LEADS INTO THE MEDIEVAL
VILLAGE. THIS SELF-PROCLAIMED VILLAGE
OF ART AND gastronomie MIXES PERFUME OUTLETS, UPSCALE
BOUTIQUES, COBBLED LANES AND SCENIC PERCHES
PERFECT FOR SAVORING A DRINK. THE MORE ADVENTUROUS
CAN CLIMB EVEN FURTHER UP TO THE SCANT RUINS
OF THE EZE CHATEAU. THE PATHS LEADING THERE
HOST A PRICKLY FESTIVAL OF OVER A HUNDRED VARIETIES
OF CACTI. LOOKING BEYOND THE FLOWERS, YOU'LL ENJOY A COMMANDING
RIVIERA VIEW. JUST BELOW SITS MONACO. WITH BARELY ONE SQUARE MILE
OF TERRITORY, IT'S ONE OF THE WORLD'S
SMALLEST COUNTRIES. OF ITS 30,000 RESIDENTS,
LESS THAN 10,000 ARE TRUE monegasques,
AS LOCALS ARE CALLED. MANY OF THE REST
CALL MONACO HOME BECAUSE THERE'S NO INCOME TAX. DESPITE OVERDEVELOPMENT, HIGH
PRICES AND MOBS OF TOURISTS, A VISIT HERE IS A RIVIERA MUST. AND MONACO IS A WORK
IN PROGRESS. THE DISTRICT OF FONTVIEILLE
WAS RECLAIMED FROM THE SEA. IT BRISTLES WITH LUXURY
HIGH-RISE CONDOS. THE NEW BREAKWATER, CONSTRUCTED
ELSEWHERE AND TOWED IN, ENABLES CRUISE SHIPS TO DOCK. AND CARS STILL RACE,
AS THEY HAVE SINCE 1929, AROUND THE PRINCIPALITY IN ONE OF THE WORLD'S
MOST FAMOUS AUTO RACES, THE GRAND PRIX OF MONACO. THE MINISCULE PRINCIPALITY
HAS ALWAYS BEEN TINY, BUT IT USED TO BE LESS TINY. IN THE 1860s, IT LOST MOST
OF ITS TERRITORY TO FRANCE. BUT THE PRINCE BUILT A CASINO
AND MANAGED TO CONNECT HIS DOMAIN TO THE REST
OF THE RIVIERA WITH A NEW ROAD
AND A TRAIN LINE. HUMBLE MONACO WAS SUDDENLY
ON THE GRAND TOUR MAP, THE PLACE FOR THE VACATIONING
ARISTOCRACY TO PLAY. TODAY, THE PEOPLE OF MONACO
HAVE ABOUT THE WORLD'S HIGHEST PER CAPITA INCOME,
WITH PLUSH APARTMENTS TO MATCH. ITS FAMOUS CASINO
ALLOWS THE WEALTHY TO ENJOY LOSING MONEY
IN EXTREME COMFORT. IF MONACO IS A BUSINESS,
THE PRINCE IS ITS CEO. WHILE THE CASINO GENERATES
ONLY A SMALL PART OF THE STATE'S REVENUE,
ITS MANY BANKS, WHICH PROVIDE AN ATTRACTIVE WAY TO PROTECT
YOUR MONEY FROM THE TAX MAN, EARN MUCH MORE. THERE IS NO INCOME TAX HERE,
BUT THE PRINCE COLLECTS PLENTY OF MONEY IN VALUE-ADDED
TAXES, REAL ESTATE TAXES AND CORPORATE TAXES. NEARLY ALL OF MONACO'S SIGHTS
ARE PACKED IN A CINDERELLA NEIGHBORHOOD
ATOP ITS FORTIFIED HILL. ITS IMPRESSIVE AQUARIUM, WHICH PROUDLY CROWNS THE CLIFF
LIKE A PALACE, WAS DIRECTED BY JACQUES
COUSTEAU FOR 17 YEARS. A MEDIEVAL CASTLE SAT WHERE
MONACO'S PALACE SITS TODAY. THE PALACE GUARDS PROTECT
THE RULING GRIMALDI FAMILY 24/7 AND THEY CHANGE
WITH THE PAGEANTRY OF AN IMPORTANT NATION. EVERY DAY AT ABOUT NOON, TOURISTS PACK THE SQUARE
TO WITNESS THE SPECTACLE. [ Marching music playing ] THE PALACE SQUARE FEATURES
A STATUE OF FRANCOIS GRIMALDI, A RENEGADE ITALIAN
WHO CAPTURED MONACO DISGUISED AS A MONK IN 1297. THIS FIRST RULER OF MONACO
ESTABLISHED THE DYNASTY THAT STILL RULES
THE PRINCIPALITY. TODAY, OVER 700 YEARS LATER, THE CURRENT PRINCE
IS HIS DIRECT DESCENDANT. MONACO'S CATHEDRAL
HOLDS THE TOMBS OF CENTURIES OF GRIMALDIS,
THE MOST-VISITED ONE: THAT OF PRINCESS GRACE. THE GLAMOROUS ROMANCE
AND MARRIAGE OF THE AMERICAN ACTRESS
GRACE KELLY TO PRINCE RAINIER ADDED TO MONACO'S
FAIRY-TALE MYSTIQUE. GRACE KELLY CAME TO MONACO
IN THE 1950s TO STAR IN A MOVIE. SHE FELL IN LOVE
WITH THE PRINCE, MARRIED HIM
AND ADOPTED THE COUNTRY. TRAGICALLY, MONACO'S MUCH-LOVED
PRINCESS GRACE DIED IN A CAR ACCIDENT
ON THE CORNICHE IN 1982. EXPLORING THE RIVIERA
BY TRAIN IS FASTER, LESS EXPENSIVE AND SAFER
THAN BY CAR. WHILE TRAFFIC IS EXASPERATING
AND PARKING IS COSTLY, THE REGION SEEMS DESIGNED
TO BE EXPLORED BY TRAIN, FREQUENT TRAINS LINKING NEARLY
EVERYTHING WE'RE SEEING IN A SCENIC SNAP. WE'RE CONNECTING THE EAST
AND WEST EXTREMES OF OUR VISIT, MONACO AND CANNES,
IN JUST OVER AN HOUR. CANNES IS FAMOUS FOR ITS
INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL. ITS SISTER CITY, NOT
SURPRISINGLY, IS BEVERLY HILLS. THIS CITY HAS HOSTED
THE FAMOUS CANNES FILM FESTIVAL ANNUALLY SINCE 1946. EACH MAY, AS THE WORLD LOOKS ON,
THE CITY'S PACKED WITH FILM PRODUCERS,
CELEBRITIES AND PAPARAZZI. WITH EXCLUSIVE HOTELS LINING
MOSTLY PRIVATE STRETCHES OF SANDY BEACH,
CANNES IS FOR STROLLING, DREAMING OF MEETING
A MOVIE STAR AND LOUNGING ON THE SEAFRONT. DON'T LOOK FOR ANY
ACTUAL SIGHTS TO TOUR. IF YOU MISSED
THE FILM FESTIVAL, THERE'S LITTLE TO DO
OTHER THAN SHOP... AND ENJOY THE BEACH. WHILE THERE IS A PUBLIC BEACH, THE MAJORITY OF ITS BEACHES
COME WITH A FEE. THE REAL CANNES EXPERIENCE
SEEMS TO BE PAYING TO SUNBATHE WITHOUT COMMONERS
MUCKING UP YOUR SPACE. WHILE THOSE ENAMORED WITH LIFE-STYLES
OF THE RICH AND FAMOUS FLOCK TO RESORTS LIKE CANNES OR THE INSUFFERABLY CHIC
SAINT TROPEZ, I PREFER ANTIBES. NESTLED BETWEEN NICE
AND CANNES, ANTIBES HAS A DOWN-TO-EARTH
AMBIANCE RARE FOR THIS AREA. ITS OLD-TOWN CHARMS ARE WRAPPED IN A RAMPART AND WATCHED OVER BY TWIN MEDIEVAL TOWERS. ANTIBES WAS "DISCOVERED"
AFTER WORLD WAR I. IT ENJOYED A PARTICULARLY
ROARING '20s, WITH THE HELP OF PARTY ANIMALS
LIKE RUDOLF VALENTINO AND THE ROWDY, YET EVER-SILENT
CHARLIE CHAPLIN. THEY SAY FUN SEEKERS
EVEN INVENTED WATER-SKIING RIGHT HERE IN THE 1920s. BEFORE 1860, WHEN NICE
WAS UNDER ITALIAN RULE, ANTIBES WAS FRANCE'S LAST FORT
BEFORE THE ITALIAN BORDER. THE FRENCH KING MADE SURE
THE RAMPARTS WERE STRONG AND WELL-DEFENDED. TODAY, THE FORT PROTECTS A PRICELESS COLLECTION
OF PICASSOS. IN 1946, 65-YEAR-OLD
PABLO PICASSO WAS REBORN. WORLD WAR II WAS OVER
AND PICASSO COULD FINALLY ESCAPE THE GRAY SKIES AND GRAY UNIFORMS
OF NAZI-OCCUPIED PARIS. ENJOYING WORLDWIDE FAME AND THE LOVE OF 23-YEAR-OLD
FRANCOISE GILOT, PICASSO MOVED TO ANTIBES. HE LIVED AND WORKED IN THIS
CASTLE AND ON THIS TERRACE. HE PAINTED LIKE A MADMAN, SWAM IN THE MEDITERRANEAN
IN THE MORNING, PARTIED WITH HIS FRIENDS
IN THE EVENING AND PAINTED AGAIN
LATE INTO THE NIGHT. EVER RESTLESS,
PICASSO HAD FINALLY FOUND HIS GARDEN OF EDEN,
HIS JOY OF LIFE, AND HE PAINTED IT. IN HIS JOIE DE VIVRE, WE SEE HIS FLOWER CHILD,
FRANCOISE. SHE KICKS UP HER HEELS AND
DANCES ACROSS A RIVIERA BEACH. FLUTE-PLAYING SATYRS,
CENTAURS AND FAUNS ANNOUNCE THE NEWFOUND FREEDOM
OF A NEWLY LIBERATED FRANCE AND A NEWLY LIBERATED PICASSO. AFTER DECADES IN THE CITY, PICASSO REDISCOVERED THE JOYS
OF VILLAGE LIFE. SHOPPING IN THE ANTIBES MARKET, HE'D RETURN HOME AND TURN
GROCERIES INTO MASTERPIECES. WITH HIS DISTINCT CUBIST STYLE,
HE CAPTURED SUNBATHERS AND MUNCHING LOCALS. HE WAS FASCINATED WITH
THE SIMPLE LIFE OF FISHERMEN. PICASSO PAINTED
A PAGAN PARADISE, WHERE CIVILIZED PEOPLE
COULD LET THEIR HAIR DOWN AND INDULGE IN SIMPLE,
ANIMAL PLEASURES. FOR AN EDIBLE JOIE DE VIVRE, WE'RE FINISHING BACK
IN VILLEFRANCHE WITH BOUILLABAISSE,
THE RIVIERA'S MOST FAMOUS DISH. THIS SPICY FISH STEW
IS BASED ON RECIPES HANDED DOWN FROM SAILORS
IN NEARBY MARSEILLE. A TRUE BOUILLABAISSE
MUST CONTAIN AT LEAST FOUR TYPES
OF FRESH FISH, THOUGH MOST HAVE MORE. THE FISH IS COOKED
IN A TOMATO-BASED STOCK, FLAVORED WITH SAFFRON
AND WHITE WINE. THE BOUILLABAISSE IS TOPPED
WITH A DOLLOP OF GARLICKY SAUCE AND CRUNCHY CROUTONS. TRAVEL, LIKE A FINE
BOUILLABAISSE, IS THE HAPPY RESULT OF GOOD
THINGS COMING TOGETHER. FOR THE FRENCH RIVIERA,
TAKE A VARIETY OF BEACH TOWNS, SPICE WITH MODERN ART, TOSS IN A PINCH OF HISTORY, SPRINKLE IN SOME GLAMOUR AND LET SIMMER
UNDER THE MEDITERRANEAN SUN. ALL THESE TASTY EXPERIENCES
COMING TOGETHER MAKE THE COTE d'AZUR
A CORNER OF FRANCE ANY TRAVELER CAN ENJOY. I'M RICK STEVES. UNTIL NEXT TIME,
KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.
