Grinding wheel adaptors - Part 2

okay Grover the shaper and I'm cutting the the key way into the washers here you can see the overall setup I have my angle plate at the end of the table and I have a rise of block down here which this is just a ground piece of steel hardened it's one of those set up box I have and I have two stops just clamped to the angle plate left and right and to do the slotting I take just one of the waters and drop it in and it's registered it's aligned by those two stop blocks on the outside and by the rifle block down here it can move side to side and up or down and also not in this direction because there is the angle plate now just take to sink lamps which are plenty strong enough because the cutting force is all or directed intimately the C clamps are only there so the water does not fall out okay you're looking at the slotting tool in here this is the waterer helped by the two C clamps and the tool clears through the slot in the angle plate so we're good to go just double-checking what I look if the tool takes a cut on both sides and if that's the case it's centered okay I took a very very light pass by moving the RAM by hand and you see - with me with witness marks down here verda where the edges of the tool touch the bore and that's these two witness lines are pretty much the same way if my tool is on center that's my way or that's pretty much way pretty much everybody centers a slubbing tool in a bore because it's just fast and convenient and 99% of the time it's accurate enough okay and I'm just feeding down by hand leaving the hand on the hand wheel and going down about to hundreds of no meter per stroke [Applause] [Music] another one done taking off these C clamps removing the part and plugging in a new part and just clamping it with the C clamps building such a simple fixture for production can speed up work very good okay I had a machine a piece of 6x6 mamita hot rolled steel down to four millimeter square or in fact four by four point five so it's a snug fit into a bird snug fit indeed slack bear very snug fit might have to chamfer the corners bit because it doesn't go down all the way but what will cut this up into sections will cut them a bit longer than we're going to silver solder them into the washers and then we're good to go that and as you can see this just slips over the over the axle quite nice or over the adapter and you can't rotate the washer anymore that's exactly what I wanted so let's cut this up so I had the washers and the keys and ultrasonic cleaner just get rid of all the cutting oil now I'm using some flux I print high-temperature flux for silver soldering and I'm pressing in the keys for silver soldering just like this and give them a bite with the goodnight X pliers so they are nice and flush i ground a fairly big chamfer on the ends of the keyway so the solder the silver sorter has a place to go okay I'm taking a facing cuts to clean up the brazing and get rid of the scaling of a tube starting with the side and later I will do the inside too so braising doesn't preclude about surface [Music] there we go the visible surface finish okay I've changed to my small sweet child Chuck so I can machine the other diameter of these washers to give them a skin cut and as I can see I can then cut from the inside with the outside stepped jaws and this show was pretty okay now special needs and precision they're just skimming down the diameter and machining on a nice chamfer [Music] we turn it on the other gun little change into a champion cool like banking speeds [Music] there we go nice nice chamfers on the outside cleaned up deltas are diameter good to go okay where i milled the fluff into the did adaptors of course I have a lot of burr thrown up into the thread and also the edges are super sharp so I'm using my die grinder small approximate yeah I call it the I grind but it's a it's a dremel without power but it's it's nice and compact I like it the Kaulitz do actually run true otherwise a steed rattles cut it's made from pop metal these are hardened steel so these are real ground hardened steel comets so this thing is actually not that bad I have this four this is pretty much 15 years old I think this was my first part tool I had a vault and I'm using one of the smaller cut of this Suzu the deeper now I've changed to some small files and then I give it a cleanup with a stainless steel brush unfortunately I cannot get small steel brush or bristle brushes with steel brushes that's small I can get only stainless which doesn't really matter because doesn't matter okay I get the this is the last one I got your washer to fit nicely over the the Huq I removed all the excess service order and I'm quite happy about the fit and this will pretend protect the wheel from coming loose in future and the thread is nice and Deibert from that would be cut off disc so there we go and that's current state of all the wheel ops as you can see I fit it all the washers to them this will loosen over time yeah next that will be I can't put it off long or to machine I have to machine taper the internal taper that fits my grinder my surface grinder and my single copper grinder so let's see how we do that okay now for the taper training I took the original grinding wheel adapter that came with my single op cutter grinder I indicated it in the spindle of the lathe drum some what's true that's about one hundredths of a millimeter half a tenth and then I indicated the taper with the top slide you can see there is also pretty much no movement 5107 or me to indicator the final fit up will be done by bluing the taper so that's good now we can take this indicator off pull up the part change to one of our new hubs and turn the first taper okay I got the part in the three check first we'll take a skin the unfettered chamfered reactions so that's done too [Music] now we've changed to a tempering tool time for both sides off of this flange okay before I start boring the taper I'm drilling not as much material as possible and on the original will help this the taper is 21 millimeters deep so I'm going to bore to drill 21 oh yes starting from the tip chest I don't have to bore out as much material with the boring wall yeah okay and now we are boring the taper and checking you run out on the machine surface down here with the indicator and as you can see I'm down to one needles with roughly on a 100 millimeter dial indicator in my mind that's good enough by the way if you want a good small scale indicator stand look up these guys fissile Swiss company they make incredible well indicator stance [Music] [Music] okay let's pull off the bride and reaffirm my some lip cup of reinder to remove the screw and then the other end of this wrench has an m8 just like this then you have your taper with the tapered end let's see if our taper actually fits okay that feels rather good and I think the fit is not terrible bad for a first try at least first we'll check if we get some reason we run out let's lock it in please carefully cause I don't have to thread to pull it off in there see if we can get a dial indicator mounted on this guy okay indicator one hundredth of a millimeter let's let's get it to sear actually okay that's a bit less than one hundredths of a millimeter on the first try normally when I turn tapers I need about ten ten approaches to get it right but this time that's spot on okay let's get some spotting blue on there just that's a bit much just a very thin film of it yeah that's the technique the pros use now we get our tape around there try to get it off and as you can see by the bluing we are carrying pretty much all the way down to the end and almost it's almost a bit wide on this end but as it pulls on that's fine I don't what I'm not going to change the settings on my on the top slide this is this is good enough for me okay I turned the not soft camera because it was pretty much the same as with the flange itself they were turned and drilled out of a road approach then shred it twenty by one no me define stress so they screw on to the wheel adapters rather nice just when it's almost bit no just and I'm drilling these four holes for this face spanner I think that's the term for to tighten them down this is the high quality Chinese spanner wrench that came with my new post grinder but uh I rather like this this has the right dimension so I'm over at the middle drilling these holes I made a threaded Oliver or deez nutz go on for drilling that just been done on and they were not going anywhere so I can drill them I also use this arbor to drill the edge sheeni are some of these maps there we go spin the spinning it off don't drop it there we go I take my cordless just gift it holds a very light Eber normally I would use a hand and deburring tool but I can't find it there we go another one the last thing I'm going to make are two stabilizers for cutoff discs I have these 125 millimeter 1 millimeter SiC unreinforced cutoff discs for a surface grinder and I want to use them but you cannot really use them without some way to stabilize them otherwise they will tend to drift off the cut so I took some pieces of 80 millimeter alone and machined to spacers that go on the side of the wheel so the Milla's the sling wheel is clamped between the two stabilizers I'm just roughing down the aluminum diameter and growing out the center with with virile approach taking a facing cut [Music] I read the central bore to 20 millimeters so it fits over the wheel I was going a bit fast on the spindle speed there and then I'm undercutting the face this is the face very cut off this will be clamped and I wanted to contact the ground view only on the outer diameter not on the whole surface so that's the reason for the undercut deburring the board with the scraper cleaning the street retractor some compressed air be careful not to blow the chips into the slide ways and setting up the the other side after stabilizer clamping on the machined side and as you saw I have my truck backstop in place knocking it down with a hammer so it's nicely seated and removing the remaining material this cop was almost bit too heavy it you can hear a straightening over and taking a final cut to get it to thickness [Music] and putting a big chamfer on the edge [Music] and again deburring the bore with scraper and we're done so to wrap this up I'm going to cult blue DS this is the cult blue solution it's yeah it's not it's not new normally the stuff is blue right now it's this stuff but I think it's all the same it's all this dies selenium disulfide blah blah blah that you shouldn't drink I have my ultrasonic cleaner back here to clean the parts have some water to rinse the parts and then I'm going to drop them into the solution yeah [Music] okay it just saw me cold bluing the part and it's still a mess the parts are all oily and they have to soak the oil quite a bit to make the finish curable the solution I'm using is obviously used up and contaminated with oil or some other crap I can't use that anymore so the finish didn't come out too great but it will work it will give a porous surface that holds a bit of oil to give it at least a little bit of rust prevention and as you already saw in the beginning after after video this is how the flange just look with a grinding wheel mounted after flange itself after washer whiskey with the key in it that's actually the washer with the key that doesn't transfer any torque from the wheel to the nut so shouldn't have a runaway grinding wheel anymore on the surface grinder which is slightly scary and you also saw me make these to stabilize the disks out of aluminium so I can use these one millimeter to relate cut off wheels on my surface grinder should be useful at all yeah and those have of course same flange and now with all the grinding wheel adapters I made so far and the one I had already I have hmm ten ten grinding will adapt as I can leave my main wheel on a forty six great J hardness I think aluminum oxide I can leave on the the cutoff wheel all the time I can leave my diamond cut wheel for the tool grinder on all the time my 80 grit cup wheel which is yeah me toward a new one this is use this for tool grinding all the time narrow diamond wheel for my for the cutter grinder and narrow grinding wheel grunts lots and surface grinder those are that's the wheels that I use most of the time now I need to build a rack on the wall so I can hang them so I hope this was interesting I hope some of the techniques I showed where interesting to you thank you all for watching and see you next time [Music]

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 37,776

Rating: 4.984334 out of 5

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Id: dLEbaRqk9RU

Length: 28min 45sec (1725 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 01 2016