ROBRENZ TOOLROOM TIP #2

today's tool room tips are going to be making a special lock nut with set screw locking such that you can indicate in the super abrasive wheels and be able to tight them without having them move when you go to tighten them up as you indicate them in and a means of putting a little protective strip on your indicator your DTI so that you can indicate on these wheels with a little better ability to see what's going on because as it wears little spot it bridges multiple particles and gives a smoother reading and also it doesn't damage the probe tip and also some tips on dressing these wheels with a m---eleven em stick or a piece of cold rolled steel so let's get to it I'm taking this up to cherry red to temper it back to make it drillable it's pretty hard to begin with so I will slowly back away from the flame once I get this fairly hot and so it doesn't chill off too quick the collet mounted stop as I've shown in previous video when adjustable Chuck stops is really handy this is held by the collet in the Harding nose and just allow you putting disc-shaped things like this in really quick getting them lined up square without having problems and it's very easy to just change the length to whatever you need just refree grab with a collet the back and you're ready to go and I was making a spacer set here one to go behind the wheel I wanted to be a thick washer to take the loads of the set screws and the gap here for the wheel it's always good to space the wheels in my opinion off as much as possible where the lock nuts just flush because there's hardly ever a case where you wish that we always way back here but there's lots of cases where you wish the wheel was closer to this they didn't run into your fixture or your index or whatever like he's sitting on parallels I'm going to drill the six hole pattern one two three four five six so I've got these lined up to straddle and tapping this down with a hardened steel block grasp each find that really works real well there's a few indicating techniques that I find very helpful for getting on something like this quickly number one make sure your sweep your indicator is a little bit larger than your part so that you know you're gonna have room I come down get on the part here I move over with the table until I get a reading on the indicator and then I look and see how it's behaving which which size dropping off quicker this sides dropping off a little quicker so I try to get the balance where that's the same roughly on both sides right here I'm gonna zero my indicator I'm going to zero my x-axis [Applause] I'm jogging up get up I'll fit around the part I wouldn't have to jog up if this was a part that was sticking above now I'll come down won't touch anything and I crank over until I get up with my indicator until I'm reading zero I read what my indicator says on X zero 59 five I divide that in half so I'm going to back away - oh we're just go do Oh 30 right there Reiser the indicator now sweep over to the other side now I should be darn close after I jog up back down you see I'm within the half thousand ther this is real fast way to get on there and then this 4-part like this where it's not critical you can just combine compare these two sides as far as you can get with the indicator and it's plenty close enough so I'm just making these equal on both sides should be pretty close to zero the parts being squashed out around a little bit but for what we're doing here that's plenty good enough but that trick of touching on one side zeroing sweeping over the other that's why we made sure the indicator was in big enough sweep first move see what the actual distance is and then you know didn't move exactly half save some time spot drilling the six hole full circle it's still pretty tough stuff throwing taps drill for the m5 that screws that are going in there obviously you don't need a CNC to do this both matter but if you know it's a quick way to get the six hole pattern in there champ for the backsides first before tapping he's my SP be tapping head here to tap these it's a real beauty of a tapping head and I just have that mounted in a cheap craftsman drill press dedicated to tapping so now I put this together we have our spacer sits on there still pilot nice and snug on the untorn diameter then we have our wheel and we've got a little plane now which is what we want we need to be able to bump this around to indicate it in our washer our nut just goes on snug and now we're gonna put our set screws in now we have all the set screws in just snug the plate just touch 467 MP adhesive my favorite I have a little piece on this spring steel here degrease this with alcohol decrease the indicator with alcohol it might duckbill little tweezers here and I will set this on like thus squeeze that down tight hold that for a few seconds bring the indicator up until it's actually leaning on this on this a little bit still got our action I think I want to be careful of is you want to make sure that you're actually touching at the tangent point you don't want to be like a contact point I'll exaggerate you don't want to be over here where you're not getting a direct transfer or the wheel movement integrate over the tip all this is is a protector to not abrade the the ball and to spread multiple contact points out over the whole contact area and then we can just spin this and we'll come up here and see what our run-out is so I'm going to load this till we're over here where it's easy to see and through this and we'll give this a spin okay so our high is right about there I'm just gonna move over where I can tap it gently and that's a little bit too snug so I'm gonna back off a little bit on these screws one thing that helps a little bit initially is to actually put a little pressure on the probe tip to actually wear and rub all the loose particles off the wheel and to wear a little contact patch on the spring steel and that can give you a little smoother readings gets rid of some of the noise on the indicator then we'll come up here and get where we can read properly and maybe get anywhere you can see me tapping at the same time there we go and what I'll do is then now I'm gonna spin this around I look for my high okay it's pretty high right there alright so I'm going to put my thumb where that is and then come over and move over working tap and just give a little little nudge some of this you have to interpret how round the wheel as period I would say I'm not seeing any possibly yeah I say it's pretty good because we're going to dress them off in this now the whole purpose is you see what the general run-out is on that right now let's say what roughly a thousandth now you're going to see that it normally what would happen is you try to tighten this lock nut by spinning it with a wrench and the drag force is on the nut just end up pushing the wheel around and driving you crazy you just can't do it now you see here I haven't moved anything I can just I just gently put a little bit on each one a little bit more I'm just being very careful to not nudge it and I'm just putting finger pressure there on these and you see that thing sitting dead still where it was that's the mess now that you have all this gently tweaked now will come and will tighten these up firmly in each position and that puts an a really really tight grip on here do not do this with a normal vitrified aluminum oxide wheel or any wheel that's a vitrified wheel this will crush the wheel and is no good and even with these make sure you have this washer you need this washer so that these set screw rotational forces where it hits is not on the wheel which would make it dance around so that that's really important it's now we can take a look at where that was actually bearing on the on the Springs deal and how it's how it stood little spot which is fine and actually that bridging that curvature bridging that it gets is what enables it to get rid of some of the the hop that you would normally see with an indicator not to mention ruining the indicator point but you'd get rid of all that Rumble a lot of it to the point where you can indicate in within a thousand whole purpose of Turing these wheels to Ann Arbor and leaving them on an arbor is so that they run true so that you get a nice grind continuous grind without any wheel hop from eccentricity of the wheel my particular grinder has a key way in the wheel because it's a three horsepower spindle but any reference mark that you could mark on your spindle to line up and put a mark on your wheels to know to put them on each way even though it only me your spindle might run perfect which is fine then you don't need this perfect meeting you know sub tenth sub fifty millions but any run-out that your that your spindle has if you line it up like this each time then the OD of the wheel is going to repeat and run through each time so just a good point is my pure molybdenum stick in here this I think creates diameter 10 milliliters pretty close and I have my dressing block here just a fine grit wheel or frankwit stick and this is to open the wheel up this is in my opinion this is very important in getting a decent dress using the Molly stick or sometimes even a piece of just plain cold roll can do a pretty good job on these the secret here is keeping the resin really exposed back eroded that's what this does this these sticking foot work were actually cleaning out the wheel we are opening it up where we're taking the resin back from being flushed with the diamonds and exposing the diamonds they poke out and have less the resin has less of a hold on them such that when the Molly stick comes over here which is very tenacious and grippy it's kind of a really likes to think of it as like a material that once the gall so there's particles come they really tend to like tear in and grab and get ripped out that's the whole purpose of this rip out the particles that are violating with running through so another thing that works real well another fourth point is having a stop when your tables can't suck through I'm a little bit ahead and center here if it doesn't matter to that my stop one I like to actually run the spindle up let it coast take these touch it Louis I'm taking about five tenths of the shot here shouldn't take much now I'm gonna run this regular speed you go be very careful with these sticks tonight cut a groove and get caught sideways you only wanna get a little arm out but when this is opened up enough it should use that reel like nobody's business really just dive in it and chew it up you don't want to go sideways you're in roll corners on your wheel you want to just go straight up in don't go surcease you have attention you can't get caught and good question so let's see how this thing runs after that quick dress you can see here there's still old wheel we haven't just enough off yet we've got about a thousand and a half thousand pull and that wheel boy these little more it opens up and now you can see that wheel is running true that's what you're after and it didn't take long they're like I say again is those low spindle speed helps a lot coasting down to almost zero and keeping that wheel really opened up with the dressing stick there's the surface that wheel you can see the particles are exposed nice and even so I hope you found this useful I think you'll really like this nut trick that really really makes indicating wheels in and having them stay still work real well and not needing any special wrenches the spring steel on the indicator is a big help the mottely stick or even a piece of soft cold rolled works for that remember this is a way to dress a wheel not the way to dress the wheel this is just one of many ways to dress it not implying that this is the best it is a way that works well requires very little investment and done properly works very fast [Music]

Channel: ROBRENZ

Views: 26,346

Rating: 4.990099 out of 5

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Id: 7LkLJ8AT9uU

Length: 16min 4sec (964 seconds)

Published: Mon May 11 2020