THE MAGIC SANDING PLATE TRT#3

hello everyone welcome to my shop I'm Robin and today's tool groom tip is going to be on the magic sanding plate I'd show this a lot the videos and I thought it was worth giving a little details on how I use it everything I'm doing here might not be the absolute perfect but everything I'm doing here is working well for us and would be a good starting point for you this is just a means of having a big flat replaceable surface lap that works great for a bunch of things I'm going to describe the video so let's get to it here's the plate with a boring piece of paper on and we're going to attempt to remove you need to give the the adhesive time don't be in a rush get it moving slowly and if it if it needs time to release let it do that get impatient pull it's going to tear and then you're gonna have a lot harder time to get it off this also is your feedback on your dry time how much you let the 3m 77 spray dry off before you put it on the plate so we're not going to bore you with watching that go the whole distance as you can see there a slow and steady wins the race this has minor amounts of adhesive beef since we've sprayed the paper with the adhesive it sticks mainly there and just leaves a few particles here a little little peppering of spots that are left on here believe it or not wd-40 is the ideal solvent for that 3m 77 spray one of the things that helps immensely is use a little piece of scotch brite use a paper towel the wd-40 sucks into the paper towel instead of emulsifying you want to just emulsify and this just adds a little mechanical action to it this loosens up the little spots almost instantly it's amazing you try to use the acetone or alcohol or whatever and you just struggle struggle struggle and hit it with wd-40 and it just melts so you get that all loosened up everything emulsified you see here none of that wd-40 is getting sucked into a paper towel we did that with a paper towel paper towel just keeps absorbing it and it's not there to emulsify the the adhesive now we wipe off the wd-40 with alcohol a couple passes we're not worried about the thing getting dead dead dead clean as if you were doing you know bonding that mattered in reality here we don't want this 3m 77 spray to stick to well it's a couple passes with alcohol and clean up the edges also and you're good to go to get ready to put the paper on around your fingers over here you'll feel any places that maybe you didn't emulsify it's good to check and the Kwik Trip with precision ground stone or any decent stones it's not going to choose the plate up to make sure you have any dingleberries on there that are going to poke up through the paper and cause a high spot final alcohol wipe to decrease the surface I pre-cut my piece of paper to have some overhang it is already the width of the plate 3m 77 spray shaking well a couple nice even passes just want a nice even coverage you don't want a huge buildup on that's it one thing I found very important if you want it to spray nice and clean like you saw it spray on that paper is to take a little tall you lean on the nozzle even after turning the can upside down and spraying it it still leaves enough friends to do on there that when you go to spray the next time you're going to get droplets and spots instead of that nice misty spray okay what I'm looking for here is where I can touch and I'm not getting any strings it's tacky but not not too tacky and we line up our one edge here making sure I'm in good shape just a trifle of overhang on the one edge because I trim it to be able to do sharp into the corners then you want to grab a large block I just use a non-functional face of this angle plate here to press down make sure there's no bubbles make sure it actually engages with the plate it'll take something you know some practice and experience to get that tack just right you take a straight razor and just use it to shear basically turning the surface plate into one leg of a scissor and you trim the edges off like that on the long edges where it's got more body there it's just a matter of same technique but now you can cut something to hold on to and you just solve this off by shearing the paper [Music] if you're using pre-cut paper on a smaller plate where it's already done obviously you don't have to do any of this pull the bozo move like I just did where I cut off the little flap that I leave on the back to be able to pull it off easily as you saw when we remove the paper now I'm gonna have to pick this edge up depending on the grade of paper use I've had to 20 from two different manufacturers one worked well wet with wd-40 and this paper doesn't like to work with wd-40 but just wetting it using a piece of shipping foam like this as a tool to just clear the things before you into the surface I'm just wetting the paper enough that it has some a little bit of lubrication on the particle I'm actually purposely going to get a little too much or too wet and then I do this technique with paper towel where you put it down and a little pressure on but with the sponge and suck some up out of it pick a new spot on the paper and that little bit of residue of wd-40 that's on there it gives you enough Lube that it gives a much nicer cut than dry and the paper holds up better or not and then this is used all the time for cleaning off your debris and if the paper loads up you can wet it well with wd-40 scrub it with this and then pull everything off of the paper like I just showed you I've glued rubber feet onto the three-point contact of this surface plate so then it has a little grip on the counter top over there where it sits so that when you're sliding stuff on here it's got enough traction that it's not skidding all over Sears mill finish aluminum okay [Music] that quick you go to that kind of finish that was milled here's as mill finish on the aluminum extrusion same thing move over it knows full-length strokes and use the whole plate firm down pressure that quick I've removed 90% of it it would go a little bit more to get rid of this but you get that kind of finish so you can see it's very easy to quickly take what would normally look like a you know just average grade project piece and put this kind of finish on it this lay and then hit it with yeah scratch break and I'll show you what that does it's a piece of scotch brite on here and we'll hit the milled side that we did and it's just a little bit of wd-40 on that helps also and now you've got that that quickly so it's it's really is the magic plate the aluminum residue there and then this is where you come back with these the foam piece packing foam piece and basically erasing that off you get a heavy build up like I said hit it with wd-40 massage it circular and then pull it off with the paper towel and you're good to go okay here's an example I'm trying to explain about this being good for surface grinding relative to identifying what your part is like so this is just a piece of cold-rolled as is I'm gonna put it on here and Stroke this enough to get a pattern remember always work the entire plate [Music] then I'm gonna look at the pattern that I see you in here and what do I see okay rub here but it's heavy diminishing to nothing not even touching over here heavy diminishing to nothing these two corners are high okay so if I put that on the magnet sucked it down and that twist would stay in the plate so these plates can remove some material so I would just come on here and I would just watch this hard like this until you start to get enough bearing that it starts to hit everywhere and say okay I'm all the way across here I'm almost all the way across here I'd go a little more until this was touching this still has a gully like this but this won't be rocking and it won't be twisting so I can just use like magnet amount of magnet force don't turn the chuckling all the way so that this doesn't suck down and I've eliminated the twist that would have happened if I hadn't done this so that's one of the beauties of this is using it for this this this is what it gets used for a lot about using these plates or any lap human tendency right here in the center rub rub rub do that you wear a hole in the plate it's higher on the outsides as soon as this becomes concave because the abrasive does wear and you can wear a hole in it where it's lower here you can't get a flat surface on a concave plate but you can get a flat surface on a convex plate so I always work the outsides all the time and work full length strokes and not just full like here because as you stop you don't do as much abrasion at the ends as you do in the middle where you got more motion so then I'll use the plate this way and use it more on the ends and that way you can wear it the whole thing uniformly and keep it in good shape another thing is that if you have a part of unknown condition to only go in here with its own weight if you have a big dingleberry a dent on here you can tear the paper you press down hard right off the bat you can gouge it and rip a hole in this and it doesn't mean you're done one of the advantages of the cast iron surface plate over a granite plate is that the edge is actually sharp and that's why you saw me cutting off the paper actually dead flush is it will let you do something like this with a shoulder you can actually ride the shoulder like this and get a nice uniform finish on an inside edge like this that was milled like this see the little swirl marks in the air okay and now just that little bit magic little bit still left here but you can see that comes off instantly so that that edge is very handy for that kind of shoulder work another thing aesthetics wise it's very important to have the orientation of your part relative to your stroke direction aligned even five degrees off angle looks like a nitwit did it having that lay perfectly aligned with the part is extremely important for it look you're right so come back on here get lined up perfectly straight we're back to looking good technique wise on on handling the block or a piece on the plate of any height is the the normal tendency for this when you put pressure on is is it's grabbing here frictional it wants to roll up like that pull the other way it was it wants to do that I'm not lifting I'm just pushing it wants to roll so when you're lapping you need to get into the habit of counteracting those things inherently right off the bat I know I'm going to be pushing that way I know the blocks going to want to roll up so I'm going to be counteracting that with torque this way I'm going to literally be pressing down with my thumbs lifting with my fingers as I stroke like this and that keeps that from happening the same thing is opposite on the return stroke I know that this block wants it's going to want to roll up therefore I press down with my fingers lift with my thumb's as I stroke okay keeps it engaged nicely that will become second nature as you do this a lot same way with diamond lapping on widths free abrasives on a cast-iron lap very important on being able to get you know optically flat surfaces there's a lot of hand finesse that goes into how you how you handle these things and and have them behave and also the same thing applying with making sure that you wear your lap or in this case the sanding block in a con cave or skewing the convex situation you you almost need a slightly convex lap to get flat parts and I want to do a video on laughing I'll show some of that where I'll show you that with Optical flat on the scotch brite which is the icing on the cake after you've done this this is even more important but in this case it's more of a thing of not tearing the scotch break so here you really do the lift you can see me literally rocking the part like this and what that does is he keeps the corners of the part from digging in I'm actually floating motorboating you know like this to get that front edge to not be biting into the scotch brite and like I say it's just a little bit of wd-40 on the scotch brite gives you that just insanely nice uniform finish is just something really soothing and nice about that finish this also improves surface ground finish like a lot of precision ground flatstock the finish isn't all that good some of us got grind hop in it and you know coarse and fine just isn't you know isn't all that spectacular so this I'm short stroking here just to stay state in view and that chatter is for me not putting enough to work on the part like I just showed you as soon as I started putting some heavier torque on that part you can see here magic so that's that's it's good for that also this can take a mediocre service grind obviously if you know precision of the surfaces high precision of the surfaces isn't a requirement then you can lay on here this this does behave pretty nicely if your techniques good you can just clean up a finish without removing much material not you know single tenth type work but if you're doing ordinary just work where the finish is more for appearance than anything else this can save you from having to re grind this little scratches and things from it getting beat around you can stand them out real quick and this is just a way of taking something that was milled like this and in very short order probably you know less than five minutes you can have every surface on here gleaming like it was service ground on an awesome surface grinder and change the appearance of that part to you just looking spectacular I'm just using this as an example of a part that you would be doing operations on an annoying machine you know in soft state the plates very handy for okay you just got done you know spotting and drilling all these holes this is a very easy way to just deeper and know that you've removed everything to a uniform plane got rid of anything sticking up that would keep you from seating properly on your next operation so it's very handy to have that's why it sitting it right here at the mill do a bunch of holes drilling it or whatever and we'll just or we're going into the vise we'll give this thing a swipe on the two surfaces that we're going to sit it's faster than stoning and a little bit more aggressive for where you've got dents and things so once you put one of these in your shop I think you'll you'll say man that that thing that thing's worth its weight in gold now this is a surface plate as you well know surface plates of this size can be hard to find but remember that you can get a 12 by 12 or a 12 by 18 surface plate for 12 by 12 you can get for 40 bucks 12 by 18 you get for 50 bucks which would be an excellent starting point the only thing you're not getting is the sharp edge but that's not really the end of the world that's still very useful this comes in handy once in a while but not all that often and the 12 inch wide paper that you see me having here that's a role that is metallographic paper used for specimen preparation and I will have a in the video notes I will have a listing of where you can get this paper and the approximate price of it just so that I don't get a gazillion comments on hey where do you get that paper look in the notes because I'm gonna ignore your comment if that's your question so go in the notes look it up and I've already talked these people told them they might see some activity I'm not getting any kickbacks I'm not trying to be an influencer I just knew that it'd be preemptive strike to have me tell you where paper is available because if you don't know where to look it's very difficult to find

Channel: ROBRENZ

Views: 33,896

Rating: 4.9878998 out of 5

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Id: 0PzCie9pgPk

Length: 18min 41sec (1121 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 05 2020