Portable Power Actuated Rim-driven Annular Saw [Restoration]

welcome back to another episode of hand tool  once again we are delighted by the presence of what i like to call maximum danger this thing is a sally saw from at earliest uh probably 1946 or 47  and only for a few years after that into the early 50s were these ever really made and  produced because they're so ridiculously stupid now by stupid i mean i love this and i have always  loved this since the first time i saw it which was only a few years ago it just struck my eye as just  something so ridiculous a circular saw on a stick with an engine at the other end of the stick  is just too perfect of a hilarious attempt at chopping down wood now to give you a little bit of  reference of of the time that this was made this is just after world war ii all of a sudden there's  a bunch of aluminum available because we're not making planes anymore so this entire thing is  aluminum the engine which was made by lawson which no longer exists was specifically  made only in aluminum for the sally saw which was made by cummins machine works by  the way so with all this excess aluminum um the chainsaw at least the modern chainsaw as we  know it started to get uh closer uh to reality and this was just one hilarious step in in that  process to end up uh to where we are now honestly this is a four stroke engine and it is a float  bowl carburetor meaning that if you tilted this in any direction other than nicely straight up  the engine would cease to function because the gas would no longer flow so to accommodate for that  chainsaws at the time including this quote-unquote chainsaw um basically had some sort of mechanism  where you either tilt the carburetor itself separately from the saw or you tilt the saw  blade and keep the engine going at its normal vertical position which is the case for this  specific saw so the circular saw blade can switch from vertical to horizontal for when you're  cutting down a tree versus when you're bucking up a tree now that we kind of understand at the time  the history um there were chainsaws okay at the time they weren't you know the lightest chainsaws  in the world but um this was an attractive option to a certain group of people apparently  enough that a few thousand of these were sold my uh specific serial number is in the 1600s  and i've seen some cereals up to 3000 i believe this was around 300 back in the late 1940s which  is about 3 000 currently so in my personal opinion incredibly incredibly expensive for the time what  possible woodworking are you doing where you need to cut down a tree in a portable fashion that a  cheaper known more available chainsaw couldn't do i don't know but that's why there's uh only  so few of these and millions of chainsaws now i just checked very quickly for spark and it  didn't have any so i just cleaned the points and now we're just gonna attempt to fire  it off and if it fires then i know we're pretty good and i can continue  with the rest of the restoration and there we go so that's always my first check  with anything that has a an engine give it some life and if it turns over and fires on its own  then you can continue if not you have a whole list of problems that you would have to solve so  luckily that's not the case for this specific saw engine now all the gaskets as usual are  maximum as best as containing most likely all the paint is maximum lead containing  most likely just due to the era so i keep things drenched in some penetrating oil just for  safety don't need to die of mesothelioma today now the outside of the saw is horrible in my  opinion it's nice that it's aluminum so it will clean up well but the outside is not the greatest  looking it's definitely been used to some extent but the inside is glorious probably due to the  insane amounts of oil the like 16 to 1 kind of mix that ends up being used even though it's a  four stroke uh you just it's an insane amount of oil that this thing uses according to the internet  but that's that came in handy in the sense that i don't need to you know restore an entire engine  and grind crankshafts or something insane for this so that at least is nice now with the magneto off  and i know it functions that is a great relief i'm not going to be able to ever fix a magneto  like that so that would be something that i'd have to find a replacement for which  is obviously would be kind of difficult so because this thing is entirely aluminum um i'm  being a little more delicate than i would normally be yes there's an impact for disassembly here but  i just mean in terms of prying and poking with a flat blade screwdrivers i don't really  want to dent or break or crack the aluminum it's not an ideal situation  for anyone at this point so i just be a little more careful than than what  i usually do at least there's oil in it and obviously it fired and turned over it's not seized  or anything so it is potentially delicious though now this thing comes with a weird tripod-ish  stand attached to it uh i don't really know why it seems superfluous but whatever um in  some of the literature this stand could be accessorized to have wheels and you could  wheel this thing around because it weighs like 80 pounds or something even though it's  all aluminum so that would be neat along with a an accessory that turns this into some sort of  table saw which again is amazing and hilarious and so dangerous at the same time maybe i'll find  that one day but there isn't even a mention of it other than in the literature online i haven't seen  one photo of the table saw sally saw attachment the biggest worry i have about this engine  currently is the governor has been disassembled for some reason and just left dangling it's  missing parts uh and on top of that i don't know the position it's supposed to go on this  shaft it obviously rotates around this shaft and locks into place and that's not uh something  that you want to kind of lose track of so it has been lost to time and i will have to do something  to solve that because that's just unfortunate maybe i can find some documentation only thing that was mega stuck on this engine  was the excessively pitted and corroded muffler which i'm most likely going  to replace uh it's just beyond salvageable and for whatever reason this  was the most stuck thing i'll never know why i tried to use my hot glue jaws of life on it  but uh to no avail especially after finding out that the uh the pipe i'm grabbing right now is  actually brass don't know why there are a lot of expensive design choices in this saw let's let's  just leave it at that you'll see oh you'll see crusty now i need to get to the crankcase i need to see  what's going on i need its secrets revealed to me because if something is horrendous i must fix it now this is where i start to  do slightly sketchier things so i get to pull the gear puller out and start  working on stuff and this stresses me out every single time i use this because it just applies so  much force that you don't even notice if you're absolutely destroying something and this just  came right off even though it looks like there's supposed to be a retaining ring holding that  gear on so i'm glad that didn't just fly off now what i want to see in here is nothing  but basically dark oil and nice metal any rust would be horrendous to see in any other  corrosion or damage would also not be good to see this was the highest of stress moments  i'm putting excessive pressure on this like thin aluminum casting here and pulling  it off i thought i would snap it in half but luckily it wasn't too bad  and this thing is super clean like dangerously clean i'm gonna check uh for like massive leaks in  the piston or valves and i'm not really seeing anything uh but i'll i'll probably lap  the valves just because i want to it's fun for some reason i just i don't know  so satisfying anyways let's move on to the carburetor which is mega disgusting it has this  film of i don't i don't honestly i don't even know sand varnish shellac like i have no idea what that  is uh the little float here i'll throw in some liquid and see if it floats and if it doesn't then  we can braze it together or solder it i guess back together you want a float ball  that floats did you know that now as of this point i don't have  any documentation on the engine itself um so i'm kind of trying to keep track of  how many turns these jets on the carburetor are set at not that they're you know correct anyways  but just whatever arrived in my shop i'm gonna use as assuming that it works so i'm trying to  keep track of that and and it's it's fine for the most part this i think just is the gas flow so  that's not as stressful but who knows maybe it is now this carburetor is another super unique  and frustrating carburetor to deal with in the sense that there is not a carb kit for  this that i could find there's a lot of carb kits out there for a lot of old carburetors  but unfortunately this isn't one of them it would have been nice of course but what  can you do so i'm gonna have to make do with what i have here and just clean up this and  hope that it'll actually work because that's that's the sadness that that could happen  here if i can't salvage the carburetor it's either it's either replace it  or just give up and jump at a river now the little uh check valve pin is stuck  which obviously was not going to be good that wouldn't have allowed the gas to flow  through anything so i'm glad we cleaned that now the float bowl or sorry the sediment  bowl needs maximum cleaning as well so i'm gonna end up dumping all  of these in the ultrasonic cleaner for as long as it can with stain uh you  do need to use special aluminum safe soap or cleaner solution you can't just use  any cleaner solution with aluminum parts because it will start to corrode and oxidize so  you just need to remember that if you ever have some cleaning to do on aluminum especially the  ultrasonic cleaner where it's nice and warm and it stays there for a fairly long time the gas tank doesn't look too dented honestly  which makes me happy that would be something that's really not a lot of fun to do  especially with like this super thick uh kind of gas tank steel like thicker than you  would imagine so we'll just uh hope it's all fine that would be the gas shut off is  what i'm assuming for the gas line and then we have the gross gaskets that  all need replacing and a brass filter thing in they go with the special solution crank  the heat up to max crank the time up to max and uh just come back in like an hour i was very impressed with how well this actually  worked and maybe it's because uh everything was aluminum or brass i guess in there and  uh i don't know it just came off like all even most of the paint and stuff  like it was very nice almost too nice very suspiciously nice someone  came in here and did something so with all of the cleanse parts  uh cleansed i can take at least the steel parts and go de-rust those  separately and probably lose them and i'll leave essentially the rest fully assembled because there's  absolutely no need whatsoever to go any further in this respect it should be  clean in and out with that ultrasonic cleaner this finally came out too the little valve seat  which is awesome and would be part of a kit and a carb kit but i guess i'm not  cool enough to ever have one of those i need more time in the cleaning solution but i'll deal with that when i need to so the air intake the filter for whatever reason  is just this don't know if this is original um it's just a bunch of wire mesh that's great  but it was also upside down for some reason don't know who reassembled that  carburetor but it's in the upside down position so we will correct that  and then this heat shield needs excessive amount of time uh spent straightening all  the bends and it's just smashed to hell so i'll strip this and repaint this as well it's just  a weird odd piece i guess it's there so you just don't burn your leg when you're using it as the  motor is going 4 billion rpm right by your nuts now we can switch away from the engine and  go straight into the death part the blade is so cool and amazing and i just want  to have more of these i believe there are a few other blades at least one other  that i've seen that are blades for maybe one seems to be for cross cutting and  one seems to be for ripping uh i would say that as a massive amount of teeth on one  and on the other there's much fewer teeth and they're probably like a lot of saws at  the time there's probably a meat or an ice saw blade but i haven't seen any mentions  of those so i do not know for sure now since this blade is open  in the center it spins through i guess a kind of geared system and you've  seen those square holes within the blade that's where the teeth of the gears that are  powered by this motor go in and spin the blade and what i'm taking apart here are the rollers  that are on the other side of those gears that help keep the blade in position and  deal with side force is what i'm assuming their function is for it's still a  very crude and kind of loose blade attachment design if that's how you  want to call it it just kind of sits there and if it wasn't for those geared  teeth there in the background you would just fly the saw out at high speed it  seems way more dangerous than a chain these have large bronze bushings on either side that don't seem like they're massively worn or  anything i honestly don't think any of these sally saws were ever used for an extended period of  time uh after restoring one of these there's just there's no way there's no way it's insane by the  way this sally saw there says patton applied for that's because the patent wasn't issued till  1949 and these were sold earlier than that so this one is earlier than that at least you could  see also just the amount of aluminum this handles aluminum the main part that this pattern applied  for is attached to this shaft which extends all the way back to where i'm touching now  and it's all one giant aluminum casting it's it's just beyond anything you would  ever see today period it's just not made at this point i literally have no idea what is in  this box what this handle does why this whole end of the saw looks the way it does i i don't  get it and i only slowly discover over time how this thing actually functions  which is i i don't want to say smart because it's definitely not a smart idea but  it's uh it's highly imaginative let's say that just this part here a square broached with another square behind it and a circle in  bronze is just beyond something you would ever see it's just it's just too expensive also this smell just fantastic what does this screw do we'll never know now i finally get to use the massive  screwdrivers it was actually too massive and i had to demassify it in order  to make it fit here but it literally worked perfectly once i did that which  is fantastic with the wrench grip come on now what do we have here what is this secret why  can i adjust this externally what is the point what does it all mean basil so with that collar removed i'm trying to  go further into the depths of the shaft we all love deep shafts and they're mysteries  okay so i removed that kind of lock nut thing and i have to figure out how  in the world to get this bronze crazy once again part that is  a billion dollars in today's uh cost and the only way i seem to be able to do  it because i can't get in behind with gear pullers or anything is just shoving stuff in through that  hole behind it and kind of twisting the wide and what's going on and slowly and surely  like literally millimeters at a time i finally get it off because it's also keyed  in and my god what it exposes is in my opinion the most insane part i have  seen since the fractal vice if possibly ever in the history of anything i've  ever seen this right here this is a threaded externally threaded gear this doesn't  exist anywhere i i've never seen anything like this at all why why is it threaded what  does it do why does it need to thread in and out somebody explained this to me  now i just expose the internals and it's even more complicated than i even  ever imagined okay so this is the main shaft and there's a nice bearing everything's mega  greased to the max congratulations to that but this right here is a clutch  it's a slip disc clutch are you are you serious this exists within a  wood cutting tool um highly highly complicated unnecessarily expensive but does do the job  so if this thing has that type of clutch that's what that lever does that i was taking  off it engages and disengages the clutch and i think that worm screw potentially  could be for adjusting that tightness of the clutch but i will not know until i put it back together and actually test what  the hell is going on here because this is completely lost to time now for some reason  sally saw manuals don't exist it's gone i only have seen one photo of one that sold years  ago on ebay and it's just the cover and somebody has it and won't share it and i'd love to know  but nobody else has one so this is an entirely discovery based restoration process so i'm  just hoping honestly for the best if i mess up during reassembly or disassembly i'll never  know until i go to use it and explodes and i die now vaporus is doing its amazing thing that i  love every single time i put this fully in not even massively paint removed yet just so i can  get a nice uh idea of where paint was and wasn't but after cleaning up as much of the  paint i can on the aluminum parts i'll just go on and start sandblasting as usual it's really hard to do now i had an idea one night that maybe i can  clean the inside of this with like a super long chimney brush or like a pipeline this  was a uh i believe a sort of duck cleaning brush for your washing machine or something but  this did a exquisite job okay it is disgusting that was all in there and i checked this for  any ball bearing since the bunch already flew out and there wasn't anything in there so i'm  pretty sure i got everything but my god that was just the worst smell of all time regardless  um after i ate that for dinner i decided to do some water on the base that stand that tripod  thing and it's just toast it's completely completely corroded beyond function so i will have  to entirely make a new one unfortunately this i know i can buy a replacement i've seen that online  so i don't have to make a muffler which is great but maybe it would have been fun now after sandblasting some of the parts  uh they're exposed i guess a hole that was there the whole time or just a casting defect  i don't really know they're on two separate parts so i'll fill that in with steel based epoxy and  sand it and shape it afterwards once it dries now the external components of the engine  are now wire wheeled and cleaned i'm not going to sand blast this obviously but the  internal engine components need to come apart because i demand it so okay the hand tool rescue  rule and laws state that i must take apart as much as i humanly can for documentation purposes  since each video i like to think of as a somewhat living breathing video patent so if anybody ever  wants to do full restoration on something they got literally every shot of everything that was taken  apart okay so uh we're gonna get the piston out we're gonna get the governor out have a look  why and what and how we also need to make sure it hasn't moved in what position  it needs to be in because i don't know what i do know at this point is that there  are manuals available for this specific engine um but the cast iron version not  the sally saw version of which there are a few differences but not enough to be useless and  non-informative so i've ordered those manuals and when they do arrive i have a look and finally  figure out how everything is supposed to run as well as all the timing and specs in terms of  tolerances for everything that should be going on in this engine and uh luckily after checking  all of those things it's fine it's actually not beyond any uh specification so i don't need to  you know grind the valves or replace the valves uh or you know get a new piston or the sleeve  is worn or blah blah blah so very exciting news that would have been probably something  i would have enjoyed doing but it would have been difficult to source new parts  and obviously my lathe is not up to task to machine things at a high accuracy at the very  least it's like plus or minus an inch on my lathe now we got to get the valve down with this  highly technical double screwdriver method which by the way is actually mentioned directly in  the manual as the proper technique and they look fine honestly maybe a little spot right there  that wasn't touching i'm not sure i'm gonna lap them let's get serious it's too much fun lapping  valves it's just such a grindy grinding noise luckily the valves are marked intake  and exhaust so i don't have to be incredibly cautious about which direction they  go in be highly unlikely to put them in backwards now that's it it's all out empty crank case  we're done we win now that these are aluminum we are using self etching primer and  only self etching primer if you use any other non etching primer on aluminum you're a  garbage human being and deserve nothing in life oh well that's drying i'll grind these so good  you have no idea by grind i mean lap of course because i don't have an actual valve grinder  per se but i just make the spinny spin and the lappy laugh and not like it's gonna hurt at this  point uh they were probably fine honestly i just i just really need to lap more valves in my  life and it seems to make contact everywhere so i didn't ruin it or anything i'd ruin it if  i didn't clean this compound out of it though and then we sand in between all the coats so i spent a lot of time off camera trying to  get a beautifully matched color not that we really know originally what the exact color  is but you know we're getting close here and i ended up using the 2k clear coat so it's  completely gasoline resistant over the entire saw which is something i love applying and using and you could too if you're doing like a  chainsaw so the powder coating is also good we're on to remaking the little tripod stand and  i'm getting kind of fancy here with my uh milling machine it's somewhat unnecessary but my god does  it make a beautiful joint of pipe and i'm just trying to find all the right angles to recreate  this in this in its entirety as perfectly as i can and some of this is a little sketchy but  i'm still alive so i guess that's good now i'm just going to sweat braise  these i'm not really going to do the sensual tig braising laying fat dimes i'm just  going to let this flow into the cracks where the pipes meet each other and then call  it a day very low profile almost seamless brazing because i will be painting  over this and i don't need to do much sanding or clean up after a braise like this it's also applicable in the sense that this  carries very little load uh the it's only just that engine is maybe 30 pounds like  it's really not a lot so these joints are still more than strong enough for that type of  weight and if it breaks then i make it the fix this is the only area where i really  need to fill it up with berets but everywhere else is really sweaty let's see  now for some reason this thing it wasn't dirt but it's some sort of foam was was in  the pipe maybe to prevent it from collapsing i made this out of a much thicker gauge steel  pipe anyways to prevent the kind of buckling or or denting of the thin steel tube but we'll fill it  with foam again just because that's what they did and uh they're gonna have to deal with it now the  tensioner on the collar that turns the saw from horizontal to vertical is bent and excessively  pitted beyond uh what i would i don't know deem acceptable uh to prepare or sand away so i'm  gonna unbraise this by getting it very melty and then just wrench it off but it keeps looking  like changing sizes as i squish it as it's hot but anyways i could have just used  another nut and remade the whole thing but if we're melting bronze i'm interested now this is just a newly threaded part  uh all i did was tap the end of it and screw on the original screw that we just took  off and i'll lightly brace this on this literally doesn't need the amount of grays that it had on  originally i have no idea what it's so excessively globbed on i think the guy who was doing the tig  welding or sorry the bronze braising had like a quarter inch bronze rod and was just stabbing  bronze everywhere but uh what are you gonna do it's just the way she goes see it's like  just barely visible just enough to hold it on now we've got to make the tea for the tea handle  obviously so i'm not going to buff up the milling machine for this i'll just use a carpet burr  that i have that matches fairly well with the diameter of the rod and just do  the same type of brazing once again with my little pistol grip okay  settling torch and call it a day looking pretty good that's one replacement  part done and here's the next one so this is the handle that locks the spear  looking part at the end of the saw which prevents the saw from flying up into your  face during some sort of like kickback scenario and i took the original collar off of the old part  and threaded it onto this noodle threaded part and um i'm just going to bend it in the right  angle that it that it was originally and then we're done also slightly beefed it up as  usual i just have to i feel bad not doing it i need to cut 400 000 gaskets for  this thing and i'm just using one 32nd normal gasket paper nothing fancy that i  happen to have on hand and hopefully it's good enough it looked like the originals might  have been not paper but this should be sufficient now we're finally on to reassembly  i'll always start with a carburetor because if this doesn't function  i'm just going to stop and cry and once again jump in a river which are  quite bountiful where i am so it's very easy look at that new amazing cask and only  the most intricate gaskets on this channel now carver is looking good is it not come  on and you can even see that this disc says run and choke now actual useful pieces of  information are shining through after restoration this to me looks like an idle set screw uh  so the further i push that in the higher it will run on idle um so obviously very  important don't know the correct position for that but we'll find out soon enough don't you worry i wasn't able to get like the  main jet that's deepened down the inside there out unfortunately but i'm just hoping  it's okay so uh if it's not i'm sorry i'm garbage the final piece is the floatable  drain plug as i would call it i did uh find some new little red gaskets and things for for this so didn't have to reuse those luckily  but i'm not sure they were even an issue anyways i'm also going to put the air intake where  the air filter goes in the correct orientation and i made a new rubber cork gasket for  this um just because the old one broke into a million pieces and is super  dry and probably completely useless the sediment bowl will be very good especially  after restoration there's always something kind of in there that ends up just flowing out of a  nicely restored gas tank i don't know what it ends up being but it's always something now we  got to put the valves in watch the eyes with the valve springs and just spend 19 hours finishing  with this because i don't have the proper tooling now you see how those say intake and  exhaust remember how i was just mentioning about only a dumb person would put those in  incorrectly because they're already labeled for you well guess what i put them in the most  incorrectly you can possibly put them in which is exactly opposite of what you're supposed to do  so congrats to me on that i don't figure this out for a very long time because guess what i also put  this part it upside down i'm just amazing amazing by the way this is this is the second four-stroke  engine i've ever dealt with um the only other one being the steam engine which doesn't even really  count uh so i'm just not i'm not that four-stroke guy rarely do i come across you know the mega four  stroke implements let's say in my uh in my work now it will hammer bearings in because  bearings love to be hammered in as we all know but still function i didn't replacing the  bearings they sounded fine but i could order some if we needed to and i keep everything very  lightly oiled just to make assembly easier and in case the oil doesn't get everywhere it needs to be  and the timing marks are there and if you remember i also put this in backwards so i'm just amazing  so there's those lines there's the dot on one gear and the line on the other gear they're supposed  to be opposite uh each other not touching um so yay for me i'm a genius great job eric this was one of those problems where i was  just sitting on the couch thinking about how much of a garbage person i am and then immediately  getting up from the couch and thinking oh my god you put it backwards didn't you it just like came  to me as an epiphany that's how offensive it was and there they are just staring  me in the face where the intake is where the exhaust is and the exhaust  valves where the intake is oh my god at least the piston was put in  correctly and nicely with rings positioned accordingly and everything moving  nice and freely and no damage so yay for that now in case you weren't aware this  little fin that sticks out at the end that i'm touching right now that literally  touches the oil and flings it up into the motor as this thing spins at maximum rpms  and that's how the crankcase is lubricated now what i'm going to do here that was  missing was attach this little clip this ring it didn't exist before it's probably  waiting to cause massive injury or death so we will apply that and we will  not forget and do it incorrectly so i have to take the bearing off the shaft  that i just put on and then like stab it into this part so that it would go on  nice and square and center and not put excessive force on this thin aluminum  casting which was stressing me out so i ended up using the impact to slowly go in a ring  to press this on because i couldn't think of a better way to press this on safely all the  tools i had would have damaged the paint regardless i eventually caught myself and had  to take the entire engine apart and redo all the way up until this point in time which  luckily you don't have to see or deal with now if you recall i made little punch marks  where the existing screw positions were on the magneto here and this is obviously useful  for timing if the magnets are not positioned exactly where they need to be then the spark will  not occur at the right moment when the piston is near the top of the cylinder and blah blah blah  so just adjusting these little screw positions is entirely critical to the function of this motor  so you cannot mess that up luckily i have the documentation now for this but if i didn't that's  why it'd be a good idea to keep track of that now this is the little bleeder valve  thing the vacuum so it can breathe it's filled with all these weird  hair things i'm not really sure i've seen them just be like brass balls kind  of stuck together but whatever it is it is now there is a paper gasket  that you saw me place under here unfortunately it didn't  survive and i ended up using a liquid copper gasket material to replace that  because i literally blew that maybe i just didn't tighten the bolt heads down enough but the part  of the gasket blew out so it's just a little paper gasket so maybe i should have been a little better  with that regardless that's that's on there now and i'll fill this with appropriate four-cycle  engine oil not two-stroke which i almost did and seal it up that spark plug is looking kind of old it did  work as you saw at the start of the video but um if the saw doesn't run well  off camera or something i'll i'll go and find a direct compatible  replacement of the modern era my delicateness if i scratch this paint  i'd literally cry at this point and find yet another river to jump in so  many river options these days and i switch these to brass because i  can't help myself and i have a problem and i have to brassify things uh it just needs  to happen sometimes it's like a mental disorder and i cleaned up the fuel line i love the  little loop that it has i don't know why it has it that's why i love it you could have just  made a shorter gas line did they think of that no they were just like hey bob just add  a twist to it screw the company out of a dollar of aluminum every  time or copper i should say now by the way don't don't assemble things with a  drill that are attached to the flywheel with the spark plug wire attached and accidentally  start this and injure yourself greatly i'm using the fantastic non-ethanol based fuel for  just whatever reason um i like to use that since older carburetors seem to not do well with that  and then open the gas line up and see that this leaks no matter how hard i tighten it it leaks  so we are doing a full replace on it with nice little thread sealant tape looking much cleaner  now and better and most importantly not leaking now this is where personally some sort of assembly  instructions would have been really useful because there's a collar and i'm putting it on the engine  and maybe it needs to thread into the saw shaft part and not screwed into the engine crankcase  part first i don't know what's first and all the missing governor pieces i think i have back  together and i think i positioned it all correctly so we're just going to kind of hope for the best  and also i ordered a nice pancake muffler online larger more mufflage which is always  important this gets finally put on in the correct orientation and filters  what i consider to be basically nothing because of the massive holes but whatever  so be it now there was this little weird steel piece that you was near the carburetor  and it took me forever to figure out i talked with other people who had sally saws  they all had it what is the point of this okay and let me explain this saw does not  have a trigger throttle like you see on a modern chainsaw so there's no way to increase or  decrease or set something to idle it just turns on and the governor kind of adjusts it to  whatever speed it wants to run at okay so that little bent piece of steel  locks the throttle into an idle position and when you want to start using the saw  you kind of pull it out of that bent piece and now you have access to somewhat of a near  full throttle but still not at maximum throttle which apparently you can never achieve on  this it's not meant to run at maximum insanity it's just meant to run somewhere close to that  i guess but not at a low idle so very very odd very weird out of all the weird expensive parts  including the one i'm currently touching why why is it such a weird simple not very useful design for how the throttle works  it would be nice to somehow like you could have included that on the the clutch arm that you're  already holding just seems seems very odd very odd anyways the other insane story that we have to discuss here is the function of the externally  threaded bronze gear and it's worm gear companion here so when you spin this you adjust the tension of  the clutch that bronze gears threads inwards or outwards putting more pressure on the slip  discs or less pressure so if your saw is on but the clutch is not engaged and the blade is still  spinning for some reason then you have this too tight and you would loosen unthread the bronze  gear thing and then you would get an idle where the chain or sorry the actual saw blade isn't  moving that's how this clutch adjustment mechanism functions okay which is mind-blowingly insane for  something like this it makes just it's just beyond beyond insanity that also plays into the  fact that this thing doesn't have a throttle uh that is attached to anywhere that you can use  while you're using the saw so you can't just set it to idle and then it won't spin the chain  like in a modern chainsaw you have to set it to idle so it doesn't spin the weird circular  blade at a proper clutch tension which is just another thing you would just never  even imagine in your wildest dreams now after assembling all of this i realize i  must disassemble parts of it in order to get the clutch activation handle let's call it on  and then once that slides on you slide that square rod through both sides of the handle  again and then you tighten these screws down to prevent that square rod from ever moving  from its position and now you can see how the clutch will lock and snap into position  and stay there obviously very useful feature here we have wonderfully cassellated  nuts of which i will not add little cotter pins to just to trigger  people as much as humanly possible but i will add cotter pins to this since this  is more of a functional and safety concern so i hold these lightly once again and they'll get  more oiled as i use it because just dump oil on it and i'm making sure the bronze bushings are  stacked enough to take up any slack and there's also extra paint there now that wasn't there  to pick up even more slack not that that's a good or bad thing really but i don't plan on  using this excessively in my future so it's fine now these cotter pins were the other way so they  were bent over on the other side of this part originally and i don't like the way that looks um  and yeah these cotter pins might catch the blade and then make me die but i'll just trim them and  bend them enough that it probably won't happen now this little clam shell  design if you want to call it when you put this rod on that connects  the two and makes them hinge together it it doesn't allow the closing to happen as  nicely as i thought it would uh maybe it's just my sally saw and the and the specific rougher  casting in one spot that makes it messed up but it doesn't close very well without excessive  obviously i need to sharpen all seven trillion teeth on this thing because i'm not gonna be  wasting my time with a dull a dull saw blade especially holding this incredibly heavy saw and  with its maximum danger sharper is probably better and you can see how it actually  spins so that drive gear indexes into these little square holes that i  assume get worn over time but i'm not sure and uh it drives this thing in a specific direction here  you can see how see it doesn't want to close it's not the blade it's not even touching the blade  it's just some sort of like a warping or a i don't know just a misalignment from the factory but  it's not a massively difficult force to overcome so i've decided to thread it in like this so i can  use the kind of leverage i have of the wider red part to spin this part in nicely and i leave the  threads kind of painted because i want this uh i want the worn threads to kind  of have a a little more substance in there so this isn't so loose and slacky  so that's something i kind of do sometimes especially when no one will see it but it just  kind of makes the threads a little a little nicer now we can attach the newly created frame which is  glorious in my opinion and attach the safety spear for kickback prevention at least i think seems  a little ridiculous look at that castle nut oh they're so nice that could totally use a  cotter pin but it's not gonna ever get one and the collar goes on so that the saw doesn't  accidentally turn horizontally as i'm using it there's the serial number 1653 and sugar  creek supply online sold these at one point i'm not even sure they sell them now but  i bought them all new replacement decals and i bought two sets and i couldn't believe it  i bought them years and years ago even before i had the song because i knew i would just find one  and it was harder to find these than to find the this uh so i'm so glad these are awesome these are  vinyl coated stickers i think the original were water transfer but these will hold up just  totally fine and there you have it one trillion hours later the culmination of months and months  of work i even made an exact replica pull rope but it doesn't actually work in the sense that  it has so much compression now after being rebuilt that i can't turn it over with the thing  without having to saw fly off the bench and i die so i'm just gonna start it with the uh the drill  which is not gonna harm it in any way i'm also fiddling with all the little carb adjustments  trying to get them into a position that it likes and trying to get this to run nice and smoothly and not at maximum speed all the time but you  can kind of see me playing with the throttle i can't get the understanding of where this  thing kind of wants to run at speed wise this is as low as i can get it to  go which is actually really smooth that metal grinding is the blade actually spinning  because the clutch isn't adjusted properly and here you can finally see where that throttle locks  into that vent piece and what you can do about it so it's not even running close to full throttle  but you can push it into idle and walk away and come back and blast your  ears off when you need to now you can actually stop it because the  clutch isn't engaged it's just the grease that's the friction of the grease believe it or  not and once you engage the clutch you couldn't stop this if you drive it's got the power now and  you can see it stops when i disengage the clutch down which is very nice much much safer i tried  to get it as low so it wouldn't even move and it just is always going to do that there's  some level of friction with the slip disc but here we go of course i  choose applewood which is incredibly hard and i forgot to engage the clutch this thing just weighs so much and it's  so slow it's like a complete workout but it's doing this thing i don't see myself ever cutting the  full tree this is just so ridiculous yeah it's too dangerous it's too horrifying i can't do it no i'm out it's insane it's a pretty  clean cut though i have to say so anyways thank you all for watching this  incredibly long video one of the longest ever uh it's just so involved but i love you  all and i'll see you in the next one later

Channel: Hand Tool Rescue

Views: 3,711,008

Keywords: chainsaw, sally saw, diresta, my mechanics, blade, lauson

Id: bPZQ6jZLxUs

Length: 67min 18sec (4038 seconds)

Published: Wed Dec 15 2021

Reddit Comments

[u/follyrob]

Awesome restoration. It's again ready to assume the role of speeding up the Darwinian process.

[u/JWGhetto]

That's a silly saw

[u/Jkc130]

straight out of Mad Max

[u/rlaxton]

That is the sketchiest tool that I have ever seen, and I have seen some sketchy shit.

[u/garr1s0n]

Pro Tip: if you enjoy these videos, it's worth following handtoolrescue on instagram, since he posts videos in his stories while he's actively working to restore these tools and you get to see truly how wild some of these old tools are while he looks up patents and figures out how the parts all work together.

Although I'll warn you, if having a messy works space bothers you, his workshop looks like an OSHA nightmare combined with a tornado disaster site haha

[u/Preschool_girl]

A threaded gear driven by a worm screw. Wild.

[u/straav]

the patent is worth a look https://patents.google.com/patent/US2490255A/en

[u/RatBrainedManAnimal]

favorite FAVORITE tool-related youtube channel. host is cheeky.

[u/wsf]

Play your cards right and you could probably get that incorporated into the next Marvel film as an Alien Screaming Maul Death Saw.