Creality Hot End Failure Modeling How to Fix, Assemble CR 10 Ender 3 5 Mini T3DP

welcome to today's 3d print today we're going to talk about a new printer I'm designing this is the hot end for the printer I'm designing now it's just a model for teaching people stay tuned I want to show you guys how to rebuild a hot end like reality style printer so in Tinkercad I blew up a model of AK reality hot and I designed it one-to-one and then I expanded it to 500 percent in my slicer and then save those and uploaded Thingiverse so this is a pretty accurate representation of what the hot end on your 3d printer looks like and a lot of people have trouble with the hot end not functioning correctly and I want to show you why that happens and how to fix it the primary problem this model you can take apart so we can see the inside but let's go over the parts first this is your coupler this is your PTFE tube your filament goes inside this tube this is your heatsink this is the cold end of the hot end this is your heat block or the hot side of the hot end the tube going up the middle is your heat break and this is your nozzle this is where your heater cartridge and your thermistor would go so that little heater cartridge the red wires that goes in here and makes this block hot and your thermistor which gives your temperature feedback to your printer it goes in here and there's usually a little screw that holds that in place this is where are the two screws that screw the actual unit into your printer go so on your printer this would screw into that backing plate with the two holes here you may or may not have two screws going through the sides here on the left and right of the nozzle into the block those are fine you can leave them there so let's go over how to do this he'll you know either experience problems because this was incorrectly assembled or you experience problems after changing a nozzle for whatever reason that problem is on the inside so let's break this apart this is what the inside of your unit looks like okay so this is a cutaway that cutaway won't actually be there this tube will go all the way down to here and this nozzle screws into this tube so there's a threaded portion there and then inside is the PTFE tube a PTFE lined hot end is literally what you see here the PTFE tube that white tube on your printer goes all the way down and touches the nozzle that's why it eventually breaks down because it's in the hottest part of the printer right there now usually what will happen is you'll get clogging or jamming or something like that it won't be heat creep it'll just be jammed for whatever reason and that reason will be usually a gap right here so what happens is if this PTFE tube does not meet up directly with the nozzle inside your HUD and you have a gap here that gap is a place where filament can run - because it's molten in here and it will fill basically it'll make a washer inside of there between the nozzle and the PTFE tube and that field it will cook off it'll bake kinda like sugar going bad if you cook it too hot and when it does that it's gonna start globbing up it'll either introduce little spurts into your print you'll get a little black stuff coming out every now and then or it'll just jam up and if you'll film it won't be able to push through this because you'll have that cooked off of calab Euler mess sitting right there what you need is for that gap to be zero the PTFE tube needs to perfectly touch the nozzle and I'm going to show you how to do that the first thing like this so it stops going off when you take apart the printer you're gonna pull out the PTFE tube which comes out from inside the printer okay so there's your PTFE tube that's usually that long tube that goes all the way back to your feeder unit that's the actual unit with a stepper motor that drives the filament through that's the feeder this is the hot end the combination of both of those peeps pieces is your extruder okay so if you take your printer apart we're caught in two parts you'll end up with all these individual parts so this is your heat sink this is your hot block okay this is your compression fitting and this is your nozzle usually what you'll do is you'll install this into the printer it's a little bit of a tough squeeze even here I made these fit together pretty tightly for demonstration purposes and your hop lock installs I'm gonna leave the other halfs off so that we can see the inside now and your top block installs like that okay now the trick to installing this assembly together is that first you install the heat block all the way into the hot block but you're not gonna be taking that apart that's most likely already there so you're gonna change nozzles so you're thinking okay let's put the new nozzle on enough you don't want to put the new nozzle on yet that's the worst thing you can do because if you have anything in here in a gap your nozzle is gonna go back to where it was and that gap is still going to be there so the first thing you need to do is to put the PTFE tube inside the hot end and you need to push it all the way through until it pops out the other end you want to push this all the way into your printer until it comes out the other side like that and that's really important because if this does not come out the other side that means you have something in here you need to get it out usually just shoving your PTFE you tube in there will break free and push whatever is in there out if it doesn't you might actually have to go in there with a skinny little allen key from the downside here and start poking around and figure out where that obstruction isn't get rid of it but in the end you need to be able to push the PTFE tube all the way through so it comes out the bottom end once you do that you can pull your PTFE through back through okay you screw your nozzle all the way in until it stops okay no gap pushing into a stops you screw it in till stops don't go crazy you're how to put a pair a wrench on here to stop this from turning because otherwise you'll damage the wires coming out of this end and then you screw your nozzle on all the way while holding the hot block with a wrench it's a little easier with the screws in here because it keeps you from twisting as much but still put a wrench on here a pair of pliers aren't here be sure to put it on the two phases that don't have the wires so you don't damage your heater cartridge or your thermistor they aren't easy to damage now what you're then gonna do is you're gonna put your fitting on okay all the way and then you're gonna back the fitting out two turns two full rotations your going to back that fitting out then you're gonna slide your PTFE tube all the way in until it stops then you're gonna lift up on this compression fitting there's a little switch here that little you have to depress it a little white ring lift up and give it a tug on the PTFE tube push it back in give it a tug make sure it's actually locked in place and does not pull back out once you've done that you then finish turning this the last two rotations until it goes all the way in and what you end up with is your hot end assembled like that now this is important because the reason you have this backed off two terms is so that if there is a little gap here from the play in the compression fitting closing it that final two terms will push the PTFE that little last bit into the nozzle or make sure they are actually blended up against each other clean it's also important to make sure before you put that new nozzle in that there's no filament on this part of the nozzle insides okay but this mating face of the nozzle right here the part that actually sits on something that needs to be clear of filament so that it can properly butt up right against the PTFE tube now once you have this free assembled reheat the nozzle up and before you put any filament in put a wrench back on here and snug this up again after it's hot just to make sure don't crank it you will break this if you crank it to tight but just give it a little ass tug to make sure it's actually fully seated after its reheated sometimes it'll turn just a little bit more once it's hot where things expand that's it you do that and you'll have no gap in here and you will have no problems with your hot end it'll feed properly it will give you any trouble if the end of your PTFE tube is a little cooking so it's a little crusty it's got some gunk in it snip off the last inch of the PTFE tube use a straight razor lay it on the table and gently go back and forth and slice through it don't try to clamp through it if you'll crush the PTFE - you do not want this PTFE tube crushed okay this PTFE tube needs to be round and flat so that it mates properly with the nozzle you can use the Capricorn tool to do this or just a straight razor carefully hold it up inspect it make sure it's actually flat I even use the little nippers to make sure if there's a little high spot I take the high spot off but you need to make sure you have a good mating joint between the PTFE tube and the nozzle and then that last final two terms of the compression fitting will force the two together don't back this off too far two terms is enough if you go too far you could damage the mechanism in here that holds the PTFE - or you could buckle the PTFE tubing as the nozzle which will restrict the flow of filament passing through Capricorn tube same idea it's the same exact process do a cold pull so heat the nozzle up push the filament in wait until it's using nice and smoothly out of the nozzle and then smoothly and rapidly but don't yank but just smoothly and rapidly pull the filament back out that will ensure that you get the bulk of the filament out of the hot end and then of course once you take it apart any time you change the PTFE tube I you can sometimes get away with not removing the nozzle if you shine a light after you take off this compression fitting and take out the PTFE tube I just broke that but after you take out the PTFE tube you can look down inside of there if you see the brass ring of the top of the nozzle that part right there you're good if you see filament on that brass ring I would suggest removing the nozzle touching the PTFE through make sure the throat is all the way cleaned up and follow the instructions to reassemble the hot end if you see a clean brass ring with no filament on that brass ring then you're good to go reinstall your new PTFE tube don't forget to put the compression fitting on but only back off to install the PTFE lift and lock give it a tug give it a push make sure it's all the way in there then finish tightening this last two turns and your hot end will be correctly assembled the problems people are having are a result of this tube not being fully inserted into the hot end and the result is that gap and that gap is what causes your problems at the hot end that's how you fix it if you have any questions to ask down below I'll answer the best I can if also of course make sure your fan for the heatsink is working a lot of times people get clogs and jams because this fan dies and what happens is if this is not cooled properly the heat moves up the heat break and starts heating up the PTFE to up here and what happens when you heat up these plastics they expand when the plastics expand they get tighter inside the tube and if enough filament in here gets too tight expanding inside the tube your motor can't push the filament the drag is too high and you end up with a jam and you'll know this because when you do your pull it's really hard to pull the filament all the way out and when you get it out you're gonna see that this portion of the filament in here is bulged a little bit that's what's happening most likely when you get that it's because this fan here is dying about the parts corapi on the side but the one in the front that blows into the red heatsink or blue heatsink that one is probably dying so it might be time to look to replace that some people have had marginal heat creep and removing these two screws in here have helped with that but if your fan is working properly you should not have to remove those screws those screws are a passage for heat to get from the heat buff to the cold end but this cold end is enough to keep the filament from expanding as long as that fan is working correctly so usually having to remove these is an indicator that your fan is dying and it might be time to replace it or it's just dirty if you get if you ever you have any ceiling fans in your house you'll know they blow a lot less air when they're covered in dust so go in there with a can of compressed air clean off your fan clean off the fins and make sure everything's clean especially if you're in a dusty environment go from there if you have any questions ask down below this model is available in Thingiverse I will provide a link down below where you can print this out do be sure to follow the directions you should be able to just straight-up print all these parts you will have to shave this down a little bit with your deburring tool what I did is I just took my deburring tool like this I just started shaving little bits of plastic off I just kept doing that all the way around until I got a nice snug fit the reason it's like that is that you want this to be a friction fit so it stays put okay now you may have to shrink the heat break a little bit to get it to fit your print so print these two parts first then take your heat break and flip it over actually it already is that way it's already printing this way down so just print one inch of it so print one inch of the Hebraic so tell your printer to stop at 25 millimeters and see if it fits if it doesn't shrink it a little bit check the fit again shrink it by half a millimeter each time and not on not on Z some D couple your axes so it only shrinks it on x and y but don't shrink it on Z you want the length to stay the same okay so you shrink it on x and y by half a millimeter until it fits in here it should be a smooth but somewhat friction fit meaning you should be able to move it apart but it should stay put once you put it on place now once you do that your next task is to find the right scale to print on the PTFE tube sample this would be difficult to print on a enduro printer you would need a CR 10 but you can print it on a printer it might end up a little bit short which is okay because you can take this off and there it is print it in Vaes mode at 125 percent extrusion print one inch of it test the fit it should fit in like this easily guys it's a little tight in my heat bring I got a reprint my heat break but keep adjusting it until it fits properly inside the heat break once you get the fit properly you're good to go the magnets linked are these ten millimeter by three millimeter magnets I think they're 10 there might be 12 for 10 or 12 the LinkedIn thing but I put the four magnets in here and in here then just drop the other four magnets on top of here and then press them into the other function so line the other part up and push the magnets into the holes like that if you need to use the deburring tool to run through the hole like this to put a little bevel in the hole that'll make it easier to put the magnets in drop a CA glue and you're good to go the reason you do that it's that you don't get magnets with reverse polarity in which case this is not gonna go on it's gonna push away because well the magazine reversed so put the four magnets in glue them in place drop the other four but I guess on top put the park together press fit let the glue dry for a couple of minutes and then you'll be able to pull them apart and fully seat those magnets make sure they're all the way in there before the glue dries same thing with this put the four magnets in drop the other four magnets on top put the parts together press them in place pop it off press all the magnets in make sure they're all fully inserted wait for the glue to dry and you're good you now have a supersize reality hot end this is a this looks just like the Cree ality hunt and it's very similar to all the Chinese printers they all use it roughly the same style hot end even if yours looks a little different it functions basically the same as this because of the popularity and commonality of Cree ality a model and after that maybe later on five time I'll make cutaways of some other types of hot ends but they all function about the same so if you have any questions ask down below if you wanna go print this it's down there on Thingiverse don't forget my links down below patreon and paypal in the description i appreciate it and if you want to know what this is too damn bad about telling you you're gonna have to wait to the lodge before that I'll see you guys later [Music]

Channel: Nerys

Views: 124,978

Keywords: 3D Printing, DIY, Education, Making, Makers

Id: uKN0VOuul0o

Length: 16min 58sec (1018 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 02 2019