Ender 3 Micro Swiss all metal hot end

today we're going to fit an all-metal micro Swiss hot into the end of three with some back-to-back testing [Music] I'd like to start by acknowledging the monster I've been covering recently on Endor three on this channel aren't necessarily essential both the end of threats that I reviewed printed quite well out of the box and all the months have done recently including this one had to add extra functionality and ease of use in this video we're looking at a micro swiss all-metal hotend it goes for just under us sixty five dollars and it's designed and machined in the USA i've already covered the similar product in the past on my franklin doodle which started life as as all trackers m200 in that instance it was essential to get the printer working properly but in this case it's simply a request video from one of my patrons you might be asking what does all-metal hotend actually mean here is a cutaway of the standard CR 10 and end a3 hot and as you can see PTFE tube goes the whole way down into the melt zone headbutts against the nozzle in the hot end if it's not seated however and there's a gap the filament can expand and clog your printer like this excellent photo by Luke Hatfield shows now this picture from micro Swiss illustrates that it is in fact all metal the PTFE tube comes in the top but the whole rest of the assembly has no plastic at all the thin heat break in between the upper and lower parts is actually from titanium to stop heat creep when you disassemble the standard hot end you'll be able to see just how far the tube goes down inside so now you should be clear on what full metal hot end means versus a standard one so let's have a look what we get with our package all of the components come neatly and nicely packaged inside this little box and inside the lid of the box is a QR code that leads to the installation instructions that points to a nice YouTube video on their side close for just under seven minutes and covers everything comprehensively once so I disassembled I took the chance to put the old and new hot end side-by-side to make a more detailed comparison on the left we have the new micro Swiss Edition and on the right we have the standard hot end as you can see they are very close to each other dimensionally and have the exact same mounting system for the heater cartridge and the thermistor whereas the standard heater block has some wrapped captain Tate insulation we have a nicely moulded silicon boot for the micro Swiss as you can see on the micro Swiss the path for the filament is just under two millimeters where is this room for the Bowden tube to go down inside the standard hot end I have to know just how much quality is oozing from the micro Swiss hot end when you inspect the machining the tolerances and the fit it's simply stunning it's also worth noting that the nozzle on this model has a coating to help you print abrasive materials like carbon fiber and glow-in-the-dark when I aligned them with two screws side-by-side you can see that the micro Swiss is a couple of millimeters shorter we're ready to start our install but before I do I'd like to make a note on compatibility according to the Microsoft website this is compatible with the Cree allottee CR ten and a three and a number of other printers it doesn't however list the tpod tornado but I pulled all of the fan covers off held this up and I don't see any reason why it won't be compatible also it will be smaller than what comes standard on the TiVo and that means you can fit things like the hiromi ducts that I'm now running on my end of three now the official install is pretty comprehensive so I'm going to go a little bit quicker in my guide here the first thing to note is that the two grub screws that retain the heater cartridge need to face down after that you can slide the heater cartridge in and tighten them fairly tight but not so tight that you crush anything after that the thermistor pushes into the little hole next to it and once again you carefully do up the retaining screw nice and tight but not so tight that it pieces through and cuts the wires after this you're going to screw in the titanium heat break and then use the supplied little spanner to tighten it up don't worry about getting it too tight at this stage we're gonna spin the heater block around and screw in the hardened nozzle once again use the supplied spanner but don't worry about getting it too tight yet at this point we're ready to use the same screws to put on the new heater block this should be as tight as you can get them without stripping the thread because we don't want any wobble introduced into our assembly we're now gonna take our hot end assembly and slide it up vertically inside the heatsink there's a little grub screw that rides in the groove to retain it at the right height you want this to be firm but not so firm that you strip the threads there should be no wobble if it's done up properly now you would have noted that our PTFE tube doesn't need to be as long as before so I measured and cut off roughly an inch before I installed it in the new hot end here I'm cutting with the Capricorn PTFE tube cutter push it in from the top nice and firmly and then after that use the retaining clip that comes with it to lock up the fitting to stop it from wobbling around this is a really nice touch to include you're now ready for the partial reassembly of your hot end assembly I'm using the Hiromi duct so I slide it down from the top put my bail touch mount into place and tighten up the two screws that hold everything together on the left-hand side you can do this up very tight to prevent any chance of wobble being introduced into your prints it's important to reinstall your fan mine October 40 by 10 fan is working faultlessly for a few weeks now your next step is to heat a pot end to around 240 degrees I found this next step a lot easier if I took off the silicon boot because you're going to put in the supplied spanner with a seven mil socket and tension the two against each other once they're hot to finish off we're going to slide on our silicon boot and then reinstall the rest of our part cooling fan components now because the new hot end is a couple of miles shorter than the old one you're going to need to at minimum relive with your bed and if you're using auto bed leveling you're gonna in to reset your Z offset I found that I needed to remove my to space the washes for my bail touch to move it up before I did the Z offset and that got everything closer to where it should be the last thing we need to do is tune our PID and if you don't know what PID is I'm gonna have a link to a Wikipedia page in the description the main thing you need to know is that it's an algorithm that the firmware uses to control the hot end temperature anytime you make changes like we have here it's a good idea to retune it unfortunately Marlin has that built in so I mean octoprint for this step but you could use pronterface simplified 3d anything that has a terminal window where you can input g code directly to the 3d printer I'll link this model and reference page in the description and it's got all the commands that you will need so what we're going to input is M 303 you could do C 4 cycles the default is 5 so I'm not going to enter that you could enter an e value but we've only got one extruder and the default is 0 so I don't need to worry about that I will enter the S argument and that's going to be my target temperature and you should pick the one that you print at the most so for me I mainly use PLA and my profile is set at 200 that's a minimum we need so I'm going to send it and then we'll wait for the process to run through so we have confirmation that it started and if we switch to the temperature tab we can see that it's starting to climb ok our process is finished as a bunch of data here and at the are some results if we switch back to our temperature tab you can see I've actually done this twice and here are our five cycles that it's just finished going through now we've got two options with what we can do here we can go back into Mullen firmware and search for this exact section and pull in these three numbers or we're going to enter it in and save it to the EEPROM using g-code if we look at the reference form our lenders room to put in our three values PID and some other optional things that we don't really need to worry about so the cheat code we're going to use to save it is M 301 if into those exactly as they appeared in my results so now I can hit the send button we get confirmation that it's been stored finally all I need to do is save it to the EEPROM with M 500 now if you're using old firmware capsule without EEPROM support you're not going to be able to store it this way so you'll need to put this m 301 line in your start g code and therefore it will be loaded into the memory of the printer every time you start a print in the intro to this video I promised you some back-to-back testing so let me talk you through what I did my test file you might have seen on the channel before it's the micro all-in-one 3d printer test off Thingiverse same filament same G code and you'd be hard-pressed to really tell any difference the circles around the bridging test are good and most of the text and small details are captured quite well for this test I lowered my retraction to only 4 millimeters for reasons which I'll explain shortly and you can see there is some little bits of stringing introduced from this once again on the underside the overhang test is much of a muchness not really any difference here so if there's no difference in quality why would you fit an all-metal hot-end it mainly comes down to one thing and that's temperature according to creati the max is 255 for the standard under 3 the reason for this is a PTFE tube if you look at the safety precautions on the Capricorn tube website it shows that as the temperature goes up harmful fumes are emitted that are dangerous to birds and when it gets even hotter dangerous to humans as well this all-metal hot end moves the tube up away from the hot zone so it's no longer an issue for PLA you don't need the higher temperatures but what if you want to print polycarbonate this x-ray D filament needs between 230 to 270 above what the standard and a 3 can do nylon is a similar story needing to seventy degrees and also needs a headed bed of 120 please note that if you have a magnetic bed like fitted to the end of three Pro they can only go up to 80 degrees Celsius so you won't be able to print any of these filaments even with this micro Swiss hot end if you want to see more on printing with these high temperature filaments on the end of 3 click the card now to see a video from design prototype test a little bit more food for thought from the micro Swiss installation video they make a few recommendations the retraction in my case was definitely not enough for 4 millimeter so I'll be upping that back to where it used to be the hot end temperature didn't need to be changed with my extra deep PLA filament and I already had my cooling fan running at 100% of its capacity that brings us to the end of this video a lot of people requested this in the last few months so please leave a comment below it's still gonna head this direction or do you think it was more of an upgrade than it actually is thank you so much for watching and until next time happy 3d printing g'day it's Michael again if you like the video then please click like if you want to see more content like this in future click Subscribe and make sure you click on the bell to receive every notification if you really want to support the channel and see exclusive content become a patron visit my patreon page see you next time

Channel: Teaching Tech

Views: 319,184

Keywords: 3d printing, 3d printer, 3d print, 3d printed, creality, ender 3, cr-10, pro, cr-10s, cr-10s4, cr-10-s5, tevo, tornado, micro swiss, all metal hot end, mod, mods, modifications, upgrade, upgrades, nylon, polycarbonate, abrasives, how to, guide, installation, tested, test, tutorial, results, PID, autotune, marlin, m303, m301, m500, comparison, octoprint, terminal, ptfe, capricorn, cap tube

Id: 9PTO98GuhxA

Length: 10min 14sec (614 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 02 2018