Compact rotary broach - Part 2

[Music] okay the shank of the tool that's this part here is the next thing I'm going to make but planned States to machine this from a solid piece of steel and the kids supply the pea sauce for a mild steel for the free cutting mouthfeel but I don't like that I want the shank to be somewhat hardened so it's more resistant to wear and shop you so I'm going to use a 10 millimeter dowel pin and glue on a piece of mild steel as the flange and as you can see are already found to dolphin's ten mu'minin diameter and the same length and I prepared two pieces of free cutting mild steel turned down in diameter and drilled and rings to a very smug fit on the audience we'll take some mucked i-64 aids retaining compound and stick them together I will do that in the wife so I can press them together after I apply the block type I always like to apply the Loctite to the leading edge of the boar and its present self out when you when the part gets pushed in yeah get on calhfa's ready there we are okay we have both of the shanks done and the two-part construction allows for an hardened shank in lumen in diameter and soft and that can be machined on the lathe I could have roughed them out of drill rod Horton and grind them between centers but that's too much of a hassle for that part because the end of the shank does not need to be hardened [Music] okay yes let me just finish the two shanks for road reproaches drilling the mounting holes for the road trip cells and machining the key that aligns to broach to it so we have those two parts done - we have spindle with the bearing package the only thing that's left apart from the cutting tool itself as the housing and I decided to use the free cutting mouth feel that is supplied with the kit to machine it because there is no real we're on it this panel is subject to wear because you insert and insert the tool and the tool exerts force on spindle but the contact points between the bearings and the housing are so big that there is no real wear on the housing and mouthfeel should be way good enough to handle that and if machine super nice so we're going to use that and yeah that's a spin with all the bearings on it this will slide right into it and the retainer nut will screw in from the front and hold this whole mess together okay the next part you are going to make is the housing are already to the first one and as you can see needs a series of counter pours and 0.5 by twenty twenty five point five millimeter fine thread for kneel and nut that holds everything together and as you can see this one is already done machine completely from one side and then part it off when I have the second one this far we will take both and finish the rear sight and also there has to be some milling be done on it to finish them I will know this is the most complicated part most steps involve the spindle is also not that simple because it has rather close tolerances which has this too but it's a good exercise for a beginner in boring so it takes second piece of stock sent it with about 40 millimetres of hanging over [Music] [Music] [Music] okay now take a CCM to6 boring bar and machine all the counter bores and we will use the carriage stopped to get our depth and as I don't have a good way to measure such small diameter hole a thread a thread all the bearings onto the screw and so I can use them as a block gauge when I get up close to designer I can check my diagnose those the smallest the rear diameter and the big one so let's go [Music] [Music] while I can measure the diameter in front here I cannot check the diameter 25 millimeters deep in the hole so I would need either gauge pins or a try Mike three-point internal mic but I don't have either one because the try mics cost about a million euros and the clock ages or yeah gauge pins just are expensive because you need a whole lot of them at work we have a a 1 mil 104 millimeter steps set of gates pins from 1 to 10 millimeters and that takes a whole small lista cabinet of space but it's convenient if you happen ok let's start to be a very good fit almost the very tight I will take a spring tap [Music] okay this is the diameter for the for the axial bearing and give me feel a light climbing fit and that's what we have here because the axial bearing of course and kerri-anne urania load so it can have a very very a rather loose fit i think that of to hundreds of a moment oversize just for fun we can measure it yeah as I said to hundreds more made a bigger than nominal that's a very nice match lighting ship now we need to bore the front bearing diameter for the front bearing the main radial bearing okay pork is still warm so the fit will get ya a little bit tighter so that seems to be okay so now we turn our threat relief already using a threading boring bar and or major diner for the threat the plan calls for two new widows red relief and that's plenty enough for 0.5 millimeter pitch shred of carriage is moving so slow and shredding such a fine threat and also I change the settings on the beef here my life finally after five years so it stops instantaneous like this before that I had about five seconds of ramp until it stopped that's annoying when you thread now we turn down the internal diameter to 20 point to nineteen point five millimeters that's the hole size for a 25 or 5 millimeter threat okay we should be very close to our final threading diameter so we can test it with the eagle and map and I found a spanner face banner in my collection that fits the nut and that's threading in but it is a bit tight so we'll give it another two or three hundredths of an ohmmeter so it goes in nice and smooth okay there we go taps or OOP yeah but just bottomed out thanks good at the that's a very nice fit and open the elite knock of the carriage it can't missing its drive trains for threading without it's just noisy running at higher speeds and we try to get this nut out the gland nut is too thick I parted them off and left about one millimeter on the thickness so while we have the body of the broaching tool in in the checkups of the machine we can fix it down and for that we take the bearing drop it in in the feet if you can get it in that's a pledge fit and Garuda bearing down with the slamming up that way we can face it to the correct thickness just machining it down until it's flush with the body of the tool itself [Music] there we go and deburring the the through hole ended up okay now we can part it off that's the body of the rotary broach finished from one side reified has to be done still okay the plan calls for two flats two parallel slaps on the body after the road approach and what machine is better to use parallel surfaces ten separate grinder of course a round part doesn't stick on a magnet very good you can see can easily move set aside it it holds it reasonably well down but side to side is there is no restriction so what you have to do when you want to clamp something round on the magnet check you have to block it in in this case I'm using some blocks and some bigger parallel and one parallel behind it so nothing can move and now we're removing point five millimeters of material from this side and we flip the parts around on the freshly ground flap then we're moving another point five millimeters of course you can do this with the milling machine would not be a problem at all but I find the perfect grind or more convenient in that case now if we have a flat spot on the part the holding force of the chuck is already way bigger than before but I'm still blocking them in from all sides to prevent any catastrophic mishap okay we need to machine the rear end of the body to an angle of one degree and I figured I'm giving a toolmaker slice clamped in my big life set at one degree and then during my small spine bar to get the coat of one degree I already did that the math and we need point eight seven millimeters on one side to get one degree of course I don't have a point eight one point eight seven millimeter H low-earth I have a point a one point eight and a one point oh seven that results in a gauge block stack of two point eight seven that means that we have to place a block with two millimeters on the other side to get a different of point eight seven million count five some horrible complicated that makes totally senses your net at the h-blocks that's the sign ball you can move the fun bar back to the rear side of risk face of the life and use one of my tool makers magnets to hope this whole mess place that will slide over when you knock it to the right angle and the Magnum is really nice for this purpose because it holds a sign bar in place and aligns it with this device okay we get not 0.0 zero over the whole disk and combats way more than précisément the manual of the rotor broach calls just they check place point for five million a feeler gauge on the one side of the park tilted at one degree which is the fine principle to just a little bit cruder but add to have all this stuff here in the shop off course I'm using the sign bar okay now we have to remove material until the whole surface is at one degree angle to the axis of the broach body and to get the depth we want the plane to intersect with this side of the of the housing so I will step down with them until their checks ain't blue line left now we can cut the 4 millimeter slug and I messed up on that part because in the plan the slot is in the shank and the body of the broach gets the key I did it the other way round shouldn't make difference I hope you okay and that's the fit to our to the shank I can feel that it tipped over slightly and that's because appear with a sharp corn and this part also has a sharp corn and those intersect enough to bevel everything slightly done we look at a knife that fit without rocking but that's a good fit now we need to drill the tapped holes three movement of thread so we can mount those two guys together okay power tapping the 3-millimeter threat at 95 RPM I stopped point five millimeters before the tap bought and out and turned the tap by hand with the gear of the machine disengaged down until it hit the bottom of the hole that's the nice thing about the depth stop with battle indicator I can exactly see what's happening [Music] okay now I my my dad bottom of the hole and I can unwind it okay I think that's enough for this episode but I have short teaser for you if you can see I already have kind of finished one of the rotary brooches and we're going to cut a formula mat a hex and some free cutting mouths feel [Music] there we go that's a nice clean for moment hacks only the entry is a bit child up because I didn't feed hard enough on the beginning and then the tool seems to skip over the material so I would have to chamfer reach and for the edge now to clean it up but you can see that I get quite a nice hex with nice walls clean walls and formula Elm Branch fits super nice into it so I think this project is going to be a success thank you all for watching thank you for Hemingway kids for this awesome kids the drawing supply boosters kit and instructions or top-notch and thank you to Kirk from anyway kids allowing me to show part of the plan on video so if you want to build the this rotor approach please go out to Hemingway kids and buy the set of drawings with the twister kit its will fit in the next episode we'll do the finishing touches and make a set of brochures hacks and maybe square but I'm interested mainly in hex purchase because I can make special special ice screws that way so your next class you [Music]

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 66,417

Rating: 4.9690289 out of 5

Keywords: heminway kit, hemingway, rotarybroach, rotary broach, pendelräumen, pendelräum, vierkantbohrer, drehbank, 9x20, 250x550, homeshop machinist

Id: cQsGB2kOIN0

Length: 26min 43sec (1603 seconds)

Published: Tue Feb 28 2017