How I Made My Other Face Mill

so about six months ago I made this face Mill for the milling machine it uses these sharp Milling Cutters and this thing can really chew through metal when I really need it to you can easily do two to three millimeters depth of cut and steel which is a huge improvement over sane End Mill or fly cutter at least in terms of total volume of metal that we can remove at once and unlike an End Mill where The Cutting Edge is sort of baked into a complex Helix which is quite difficult to sharpen when The Cutting Edge breaks on the face Mill I can simply swap out a cutting insert which is a lot cheaper the only real downside to this tool is that you can't machine up to a hard corner it always leaves a 45 degree chamfer and that sometimes is a bit of an issue however the fix should be pretty simple and by simple I mean just make another one so what I have here are a few packets of the CC GT inserts laying about and I never use these the clearance angles on these are a bit less than what you would expect on a Milling inserts but we can definitely make them work and the shape that they have should allow us to machine up to a corner of a work piece minus the nose radius and for the tool holder I have a piece of I think it's 10 20 or 10 30 and that should be suitable for this tool [Applause] [Applause] so the part first cleaned up we'll first machine in the shank of the tool and we have about 30 millimeters to come off the diameter [Applause] foreign foreign [Applause] [Music] [Music] so I've given the part a little bit of time to cool down and the micrometers are saying that the part is just a hair over 20 millimeters so what I'll do is I'll give the shank a bit of a sound and that should give it a Polish and bring it down to final size and that is a pretty good fit in the collar so the next feature I need to turn in is a shoulder and a chamfer on the top Edge this will allow me to get in with the spindle wrench and install this pass into the milling machine foreign [Music] thing left to do is flip the part in the Jaws and make sure to use some copper soft Jaws to protect the shank I'll then clean up the front and then give the bottom some relief foreign work done so let's get it set up in the milling machine and get the insert seats cut so I've got the parts set up in the dividing head and I've done my best to get rid of most of that run out and the dividing head is set up at zero degrees I want to keep the geometry a lot more straightforward for this cutter compared to the other face milk that I made with that said though I have designed myself into a corner because when I designed this the cutout that I designed requires the use of a 20 millimeter cutter now I do have a 20 millimeter cutter except this Mill just isn't rigid enough to make use of it especially with this setup however I am pretty undeterred so I am going to try and find an alternative method to form the curve that I originally designed so what I've gone ahead and done is I've set up the boring head and I'll be using grass as a small fly cutter to form the flute and I will say out front this is not going to be the most efficient method and I'm only going to be able to take off about half a mil or so with each pass nothing else to do but uh see if it works [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Music] so that definitely took a lot longer than I was originally expecting but with a fair amount of patience we ended up with this and yeah it definitely needs a little bit of cleanup but that is the profile that I was originally aiming for foreign [Music] [Music] and that turns out looking really great and of course because it is a face Mill I am going to be using three inserts which required three flutes the three inserts should allow us to remove a lot more material than one the final thing left a machine is the pocket for that insert and the first cut can be taken without changing the setup I just need to be careful of the clearance between the tool holder and the part of which there is a lot of clearance now to cut the second side I will need to rotate the dividing head now because these Cutters do leave a small radius I will need to make a small relief cut in the corner and that's as simple as plunging down with an End Mill all right well that's the face Mill done all in all that didn't take too long to make maybe an afternoon which is actually pretty impressive because filming these things always slows down my project speed now I'm not expecting to replace my other Facebook with this one and I probably won't be able to remove as much material with this one mostly down to the different geometry but we should be able to do a wider area and machine up to a 90 degree corner nothing left to do but see how it works okay so that was about a one and a half millimeter depth of cut and steel and it seemed to do quite well although it did need quite a lot of horsepower and that was about half of what I did before but the milling machine seemed a lot happier and the cut looks a lot better overall pretty good tool for half a day's work I'm very happy with it and I'm definitely going to get a lot of use out of it and that's about it for now thank you very much for watching see you next time [Laughter]

Channel: Artisan Makes

Views: 72,306

Keywords: facemill, face mill, facemill build, face mill build, making a face mill, building a face mill, how to make a face mill, CNC, milling machine, milling machien tools, carbide face mill, milling machine cutter, milling machine fly cutter, fly cutter face mill, machine facing, fly cutter CNC, mill, milling machine tooling, facemill diy, face mill diy

Id: 3fW8dqFamv0

Length: 12min 0sec (720 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 26 2023