How Was This Done in The 1890's ?? Take a Look !!!

let's take a little closer look at this fixture for a second the rail on the end is strictly you can see it right there underneath the spacer underneath the heel of the clamp that rail is there just specifically so that i can cut the end of this part on the draft angle that's on the casting by holding it vertically on the sides like this you can rotate the fixture to whatever angle you want to accommodate the casting i didn't want a straight face on it and to put that little slot in the bottom of this thing i held it very gently on the casting itself in between the jaws now the next step in this operation is to put a 125 hole right through that boss followed immediately by a slot in the end here now there are dimensions from the hole to the slot and the length of the slot compared to the hole the way i intend to do this i will locate this square with a square find that face right there to move out to the center of that hole once that center is established i can then reposition the fixture laying it down and i don't have to find that center again because it's already established this back face here the solid y axis face is not going to change so once that center is established it'll be easy to find the location and the length of the following slot it's all very small it's all very delicate which is why i chose to go this way only took a couple minutes but let's set it up finish this piece the part has been flipped over the camera's been moved it is now on the right front side of the machine so the y-axis zero is the same as the center line of the hole yes edge finder picked up on the rib moved over half the distance of the rib so now i have a zero zero center of the hole center of the rib time to slot this little end here if there's any discrepancy in the casting this is where you're going to see it oh there you go slot is in line with the slot on the bottom everything is positioned accordingly let's clean it up i'll show you where that goes [Music] that little piece resides right there on the front of the upper frame and that is the adjustable component let me see if i can do this without blocking the camera for you there you go that will hold a worm gear that when you turn the crank on the front of this drill press this mechanism will spin and when that mechanism spins the gear down inside this slot right here will drop the column bringing down the spindle there you go when not in use it can be retracted so you can use the speed handle or the torquey handle for it this is a fine feed and you can see the slot on the other other opposite side outside of the screw right there clever little model coming together nicely all right moving on to the hand wheel section of this little mini drill press there are two of these guys this is what it looks like after you sit here and kill two cups of coffee and wear your files out trying to clean it up and this is what it looks like before so even the smallest detail on these machines needs your attention and i give it 100 if you're going to do it do it right it wouldn't be so difficult to turn this into that but as far as the od is concerned i maintain the small cylindrical feature where the handle hits and that turns into a little more hand work in that area all right let's take the file to this one then i'll broach the holes in it test fit it if all goes well after you spend some time with the file this is the assemblies that you'll get they're incredibly small and you'll notice that i oriented the square going through the center so that the points lined up with the ribs of the handle that gives you a little bit more strength and should serve you well in the long run ods are polished and the insides are still raw blast and filing getting ready to assemble next piece in the sequence is number 27 this is a feed shaft worm gear the sequence that i'm going to do is i'm going to take the raw material and i'm going to put the square on it and the tapped hole first because i know this is relatively long and could flex with it turned down so i'll turn it after i put the square on i will measure the thickness of item 11. the thickness of this wheel right here should be a little bit greater than the length of that flat or flat square feature if you want this wheel to be jiggly and wiggly on here then by all means make this however long you want but if you want a nice snug fit when you drive the screw down make sure that the wheel is thicker than that square so that's step number one going to put it in the lathe face it off drill and tap it back to the mill for the square back to the lathe final turning threading and part it off and this is one of those fit at assembly things so when we assemble this when i assemble this i'm going to put a bushing on the back side of this so that it doesn't rub on this block i'll put another bushing on the inside of this one plastic and then we'll go with the brass and the wheel assembly shouldn't take all that long let's get to it the spindle worm gear is complete this is what it looks like when it's done flat on one end a little bit of shaft square on tap and you watch this thing come together before this is a 10 piece assembly when i'm done with it this is 10 pieces i'm going to show you how this goes together i do not want the end of this helix rubbing against anything so we're going to make sure that doesn't happen and i'm gonna put a collar on here sorry for my fingers it's really hard to shoot this all right a little collar on the end now because you know i'm not a fan of metal to metal i had to be a bushing on there a little washer this is acetyl darwin oh it's good on the outside got to be good on the inside right so let's duplicate that whole thing all over again so now there's no metal metal on that one and depending on a lot of different variables here these are developed size collars so it's really hard to say what yours would turn out to be if you made them depends on how thick the block is how long the part is how thick the hand wheel is there's a dozen different things that come together right now and last but not least the screw i just recently received a really nice set of screwdrivers in the mail so thank you for that nice gift from a subscriber when you torque everything down the block should still spin freely that is very important and it does minimal end play if any nice and smooth on this you can see how the little washers come in handy they're not going to allow any metal to metal contact and this will be the fine down feed adjustment for the spindle let's make a couple callers come back and put everything together we are getting very close to the end of this model and gonna start attacking some of the smaller less significant parts like these collars there's a couple of bushings laying around here somewhere little guys like this piece right here and although these parts aren't very difficult sometimes when a part gets small like that it gets a little tough to hold and locate the features so it lends itself to a really unique setup that i thought i would share with you and it's very applicable for a part this size apart much smaller than this or even bigger let's take a look how it's done everybody has their own approach on something like this this is one of many that you can use another very handy way to do this is to just simply hang the little collar on a pin and squeeze it in the vise that way you squeeze the part the pin stops it from dropping through indicate the pin edge find the part off you go when parts are too small do that and there's a risk of crushing the part this is one approach set your v block in your vise i have a stop on either side so there's no motion on the v block and sweep the v block notice the approach angle of the indicator tip vertical or close to the angle on it and don't worry about cosine errors that doesn't come into play right now so zero on the one side zero on the other side that would be step number one zero it out if you don't have a v block that you can trust or you want an easier method you can also lay a pin in here close the vise on the pin and sweep the outside of the pin if you're more comfortable the next step i'm going to do is i'm going to just simply lift my v block close the vise on it [Music] and i'm going to use an edge finder against the back so now i have a center line and a zero spot and from there i can do just about anything let me find the edge i'll come back put the parts in show you that in the interest of saving time i'm going to stack the parts in this v block and just leap frog from one part to another the parts are the same so the distance between the features will be the thickness of the part the pin is now applying the pressure off we go and for everybody that keeps asking what i use as a tap follower this is a nero n-i-r-o-l nero brand tap guide spring-loaded one side is a cup you take this set screw out you can change the spring pressure you can also reverse the spindle to a point works really well this is an extremely light spring on here that i use for all my super small taps if you use a tap guide make sure you know how far up into this this will go before the spring inside is solid i know that mine will go just about flush sometimes if you crank down on the set screw too far or use a coil thickness spring this will not compress all the way and the last thing you want to do is bring the quill down and smash your tap so always be aware of that range of motion right there [Music] also by watching how much is extended when you start your thread it's a really good visual indicator of how deep the thread is this is the spindle for the drill press this spindle needs to float through the upper bevel gear while being driven by that upper bevel gear the print calls for a very small slot in this shaft and i can tell you from experience with the engine lathe that machining the set screw that's supposed to engage that slot it just never ends well because the screws are so small and the broach feature that the key this little guy right here goes into is so deep that as soon as you start turning on the front of the set screw it just breaks off so i'll tell you what i did i notched it that is about ten thousands off center both ways now when it goes on the gear [Music] you can see that a diamond point or a 90 degree tip on the set screw would be ideal for this application so that's what i'm going to go with now how do you cut a set screw so small to a 90 degree tip without smashing everything well you use a sacrificial block just like this one this is tapped through with the 172 thread that is about a two millimeter thread you can see the set screw protruding out from the face of that and the set screw itself is only about two millimeters long it is very superficial right behind that set screw is a cap screw so i drove the cap screw down trapped the set screw and now i'm going to be able to hold this and do whatever i want to the front of that set screw it worked really well with the engine lathe if you watch that series if you have it go check that out it's got some good stuff now in order to keep the load on this set screw i'm going to invert the tool and cut across the back that way the load on the screw is clockwise as the machine is turning towards me and if anything happens it'll just push it further into this blank but i don't think it will so this is going to be too small to film absolutely too small to see especially with the tool inverted and running backwards excuse me running upside down running forwards so i'm going to go and do it and i'll bring it right back and show you what this looks like i'm going to hit the face of this of course but it should work rather well this particular still is being taken with the machine turned off but you can see how the tool is inverted this is going to be like any other turning process but i'm going to do all the turning on the back side you can see the black nub of the set screw starting to show through so that's how this is done i'm beyond center on this i'm cutting on the back side machine forward tool inverted anybody with really good eyes can see that the tip of that is silver and the rest is gold literally let's see if it fits in the shaft itself i think that is going to be an ideal drive feature for that a lot of surface contact a lot of integrity it's not going to break off like the 1.2 millimeter diameter they ask you to turn on there so let's pop it out and see what it really looks like this is a great method for turning small parts guys and ladies i highly recommend you try this you will be shocked at the results and let's we'll just drive the screw out from behind and yeah put that into gear and be right back i would say that concept is a solid win i like it i'm going to run it down until it seats and back it off about a quarter of a turn okay we're seated and record return back i like it and the screw is subsurfaced to the teeth which is always good so it should still work at assembly let's pop together real quick and find out all right we got all the sub assemblies complete let's put this thing together and just for sake of machining after the fact i did pull the spindle out for the machining of that notch feature on the end and there will ultimately be flats placed here for the collars and that's about it let's do it [Music] let's start off with the easiest part this is a develop dimension based on all the features that stack up right here depending on how long that shaft is how long the flat is how thick the hand wheel is there's a half a dozen different things that need to be good before this will work the collar should be just slightly below the flats so the hand wheel locates on the flats of the shaft and doesn't trap the collar you don't want to do that because then it's going to be real tight and snug it up one snug make sure it spins freely minimal in place side to side there's a couple thousands in there not bad and you can see when you turn this the inside gear that'll drive the rack and the one on the other side go with it spindle's next goes up and down nice and easy let's see if we can get this done notch features for the drive and we have a couple of washers here for friction reduction put them on the side for now color washer when you're doing this make sure this brass part is cranked all the way down just makes it a lot easier to work with on the gap side these little washers are not called out on the print you know i'm not a big fan of metal to metal contact if i can avoid it that's why that's there [Music] same thing on the top now from the print an additional 20 thousandths worth of material it's about a half a millimeter half a millimeter half a millimeter was removed from this surface right there on the casting and right here setting the placement of those collars is dependent on the shaft protruding slightly beyond the drive gear on top all right i know this brass piece has to be basically flush with the casting make sure the gear didn't move can stick out a little bit it's not going to hurt you from this point now cinch these guys up and your stroke should be appropriately set you fumble around with that for just a second [Music] and just for visuals i'm going to try to line up the set screws within reason [Music] all right shaft does not fall out of the top gear when it's stroked all the way down that's a good thing you can still turn there you go let's do the top one now i put a spacer on the back side of the gear and yes there's a flat on the shaft so the set screw doesn't mar the shaft always a good idea now the kit calls for the front gear here to be a free floater and then this just gets locked on wherever the belt will track with the bottom half of the machine but not a fan so i put a collar back here as well more plastic and the other color there you go no movement in that gear right there spins nice and clean you do not want the shaft to project so far out that the spindle will intersect with it because during operation when you turn this handle that spindle will go up and down all right let's just snug this guy up just for laughs and there you go for now pulley drives belt drives to cone pulley the cone pulley drives the shaft shaft drives the gear gear translates over to this one down the spindle and everything turns so far so good and we have a couple of these guys these oiler holes do intersect the shaft so make sure if you make these which i did that's a 256 thread on there it's really small make sure that stem is short enough that it doesn't hit the shaft all is well [Music] we did this sub assembly before let's place that in there and show you how that works that's pretty cool on the instructions it is mentioned to shorten that screw right there so it doesn't go through and hit the brass column for now i'm going to leave this in the disengaged position this is slotted and we'll move back and forth you can see how it engages and then disengages so let's keep it up out of the way for now so it spins free and instead of making that screw shorter i made a brass collar for underneath it all right so this now spins freely when you turn the handle on the side this panel goes up and down without this moving that's a good thing and the final element for the drive is the side handle this is the torque handle screw in the washer do not go all the way down to the handle and it's a clever design once that handle is engaged the handle can now be used to drive the spindle if you want to use the wheel instead of the handle the handle can pull out and now it swings freely without coming off now you can use this one now let's engage this guy right here this is the fine feed when the fine feet is engaged this handle will not move the spindle and this handle will not move it either they're locked out but when you turn this you can see you get a much finer control and that probably translates to a whole lot more pressure too now i would say that's quite a bit of progress for one episode we're going to sign off right here i hope you enjoyed watching this as much as i enjoyed making it this is one heck of an assembly right here i'm really impressed with that clever design for how long ago it was designed and i'm not taking anything away from the engineers from the 1890s i mean hell even the pyramids are still shocking people these days but the ingenuity and the simplicity of something like this is just truly admirable i am truly having a good time getting real close to being finished here guys real close a couple of flats maybe on this the base still needs to be gapped to adjust the belt tension and we are just about done that is absolutely beautiful i'm just loving on that all right enough babbling thank you very much for tuning in i do appreciate it wherever you are in the world i hope you are safe and well and staying away from this second wave of covet variants and such do everything you can to take care of yourself and the people that you love joe pie here at advanced innovations in austin texas i'm out you

Channel: Joe Pie

Views: 1,150,107

Keywords: Joe Pie, JoePieczynski, Advanced Innovations, advanced innovations llc, how to, machine shop, shop tricks, shop hacks, shop techniques, shop tutorials, Scale models, mini lathe, steam engines, beginner machinist, hobby machinist, advanced machiniist, professional machinist, turning, milling CNC, manual machining, machining, Miniature drill press, pm research

Id: oI7f9OPHG20

Length: 40min 21sec (2421 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 18 2021