Making an aid for edgefinding

okay welcome back to today we have interesting imagine we're at the milling machine and you have a workpiece clamped in the Wyss on an angle like this you have your square corner if your wife's cha right here and now you want to register off of this edge you want this to be your zero how do you align your milling machine spindle with this with this edge you can't touch it with a normal dialing oh no no edge finder because of course there is no no flat surface to approach you can't use a wiggler not really and dial indicator is also not very useful in this in this case what you can do is you can chuck up a pointy around a needle suncook round needle and align it by eye with the edge using a magnifier you can reach pretty good precision with that but that depends a lot on the animation is how close he gets it and I want to make a small gadget that helps it gives me the ability to pick up some an edge of a workpiece that's in an angle with the edge finder and the gadget is pretty simple it's a it looks like a pacman it has a given diameter and a 90 degree cut out to half the diameter so this is a half the diameter and this is half the diameter and in the center of course is a relief cut and that's all and that's gadget to pick up such an edge with an edge finder let's change over new page it's pretty simple you have your work piece with the edge up here 90 degrees wise child you drop this your pac-man over this your pac-man gadget and you have your diameter here and from here to here it's half the diameter so you approach this edge with the sure with your edge finder with your edge finder touch up on this surface move over half the diameter of our little tool and of course half the diameter of your edge finder then your spindle is that on accurate above the above this edge and now we're going to make this little tool we have our slug turned to diameter it's 16 millimeter very precise almost on the spot few thousands of the millimeter over we cut it to length we chamfered every edge and now we're going to over to a milling machine and make the 90-degree cut out okay this is going to be a bit of a sketchy setup the reason for this setup with the big overhang on the side is I can come in with my micrometers with disc my parameters and measure the height of the remaining material from the bottom up to my machine to the cut out I'm going to cut away the material right here and I need yoga hey I need to use the disc micrometer that I can come in with the discs into the clearance hole over the centerline of the work piece so I can measure a real height and same for the big overhang on top so I can come down over the center line of the piece and measure there okay I touched off the top surface and the side and now we just hog out the material - almost there when then we take a light skin pass and measure it and then we'll finish it to a nominal size okay rear we remove the bulk of the material and now this is where our disk micrometer comes in handy with the disk shaped anvils we can get into this relief cut and actually measure over the centerline of the workpiece and that will give us the true-true thickness of this remaining material okay this should be eight point five eight millimeters thick and we want eight millimeters so let's take another five ten four millimeter measure again and then we will take a finish cut brain power supporters you okay and we're at six and a half hundreds and that's a six point five hundredths of a millimeter oversize will take another we'll take this cut measure it again and then we back off from this surface by a few hundredths of a millimeter and finish the bottom surface okay I skim cut the second surface and I'm going to take a measurement this works a bit better because gravity is helping me okay we're at nine and a half hundredths of a millimeter so we go down nine hundredths take another cut and call it done okay now I want to check for the accuracy of my machined piece and this is decided I came up with I have a ten millimeter gauge lock that I will rest the piece on so it clears the surface plate which is cleaned I set my gauge book up here then I have an 8 millimeter gauge block that is as high as the section should be and drop it on there and I have my dial indicator with my nifty new magnetic stand this is the smallest no gas stand and I like it pretty much I don't like big indicator stands because my machines are not that big and I do a lot of small work so I like this very much I move over my dial indicator this is a 100 millimeter dial indicator I already see rode it on top of the 8 millimeter gauge block and now I take my piece I make sure that my surfaces are clean really you can't have any dirt when you try to work accurate and then again with my dial indicator over this piece and find the high spot there we have it that's right at zero so this side is perfectly eight millimeters high or cut perfectly in half now for the second side of course I already did this and I know what the outcome this is one hundredth of a millimeter off and one hundredth of a millimeter is really not that much it's half of a bell or five ten thousandth of an inch imagine you're at the milling machine you have a workpiece at a really wonky angle you just checked it up and the Wyss you used your sign bar to set it up precisely at the angle you wanted and now you want to reference off this this top edge you could use a point like a anvil shank you ground on a point and align it by eye with a magnifier that works fine that's not super precise but you get in the area of two three four hundredths of a millimeter but in this case the edge has a chamfer then it's hard to know where to reference off we want the real the we want the position of the theoretical edge intersection of these two planes and we get this by using the little tool we've made right now we drop it on there and now this distance from this outer surface to the center of this tool is exactly eight millimeters that's half the diameter of this the slock and these eight millimeters give the distance to the 2 D 3 C radical edge you hold it with one finger be aware of the spinning spin will don't touch the drive slots up here or you chuckling else then you approach it like usual where doesn't matter move it until it kicks out there we are okay we practice for off the spindle now our spindle is offset to the edge by half the diameter of our tool and half the diameter of our dial indicator not dial indicator edge finder so that's 8 millimeters and half the diameter of this is 3 millimeters so we have to go over 11 millimeters to be over the edge of the work piece okay now it should be right already center of the edge for double-checking we can pull out the edge finder and use a this is a carbide end mill I ground a 60-degree point on it and that's what I use to align work pieces by eye sometimes that's the only way to align something and I would just go down onto our edge okay Brooke Cameron and this is right on the edge of the work piece so our little tool works and looks and this will come in handy in the future I'm sure I will deeper some of the edges a bit more put put a chamfer on them and then it's ready to use but I'll do that off camera you don't need to see that you have seen me deeper work a few times so hope you enjoyed thank you for watching and see you next time

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 44,854

Rating: 4.9757576 out of 5

Keywords: Edgefinder, wiggler, milling machine, deckel cnc, deckel, mitutoyo, precision tooling, toolmaking

Id: ULs0nkdiU20

Length: 16min 8sec (968 seconds)

Published: Sun May 31 2015