Making Flange Nuts 3 methods of indexing TIPS #629 tubalcain

which do you prefer to use on your milling machine clamping system hex nuts with thick washers or flange nuts with a built in washer I know I prefer a flange nut let's make some today you howdy once again is mr. peak your YouTube shop teacher at your service let's make some of these flange nuts today and I'll make three different sizes and I will make them by three different methods of producing the hexagon starting with round stock of course and you're gonna see flange nuts used quite a bit in products that you assemble in your home because it eliminates a washer matter of fact there's a flat washer and really a lock washer all-in-one now these little nuts are stamped nuts we're going to machine larger nuts most specifically on your milling machines you'll probably use the 5/8 diameter thread on Bridgeport's this is possibly made of heat treated steel I'm not even going to double check I do like the appearance of this I like the coloring I like everything about it and you certainly can buy these from any machine shop supplier I don't think you'll find him at a local hardware store but just for the fun of it let's make some first of all let me tell you what not to do in the early days of my teaching we had a very low budget like a be Western and you know we couldn't buy things like like nuts like that so we would make our own and I didn't have a dividing head or any real means of doing it at that time so I simply took a piece of hexagon stock about this size this of course is a wooden mock-up and I had a stud either pinned or welted in there I forgot which and we would screw the blank on there pretend that this is still a piece of round stock and this could be put in the milling machine vise and we would first mill one side then unclamp it rotate it by one sixth mill the other side and so on times six and this was a good method if the boys would actually listen to you and follow instructions but if they entered with the milling cutter from the raw way it would instantly unscrew this no matter how tight you had it and break the cutter and flip that across the room until it hit the metal walls you know and I can still hear that happening I'm not sure if it was the cutter that hit the wall or the nut but they would really go flying so I had to put the kibosh to that after about a year don't try that at home as far as the dimensions of the nuts are concerned I could find nothing about them in this 30th edition here of the machinery handbook but in this wonderful little black book the fastener version of it remember there's about three or four different versions of this there are complete dimensions for this and I'll put a still of that near the end of the video you can never have enough flange nuts around the shop as you can see from these two sets that I have this is 3/8 and this is half that in most cases the flange nuts are missing there's a few there and the smaller size but here I don't know where they are I bought these used so maybe they were missing when I bought them but they get spread around the shop on different fixtures I have prepared some material here for this project and in the smaller size which is 3/8 thread the wrench set is to be used as in eleven sixteenths in the half inch 13 size the wrench to be used as 7/8 and then the most common for 5/8 11 is 1 and 1/16 and that's probably what you're using on your Bridgeport mill you can of course use any size material you want but according to the specs in the black book the 3/8 size requires 15 sixteenths material the half-inch 13 requires one and 1/8 and the 5/8 11 requires 1 and 3/8 now I had some fifteen sixteenths in stock I did not have one or one a so I turned down a piece I did not have one in 3/8 so I turned down a piece note that these pieces are short because of the I'm going to hold them this piece can be longer because it will be held in a collet again eleven sixteenths across the flats for this 3/8 size and the overall thickness here is just a little bit over 1/2 and the thickness of the washer is let's call it 1/8 you can do your layout ahead of time like this or simply do it on the milling machine by dialing it in either one is good enough okay for the 3/8 size I'm going to use this little Hardinge divider I'm not sure exactly what to call this maybe a super spacer or something like that it holds 5c Kaulitz and I already have a 15 16 s collet installed with a little draw bar and we can divide not like a full-blown dividing head but there's a protractor on here and I've already marked it because we need to space it six times we're making a hexagon is what we're making so I've got these all marked perhaps you can see the name hardens on there and I don't believe I've ever used this since I've owned it and I think it's fairly old so before I clamp it on the milling machine let me go ahead and put the stock in there and I'll be fairly close to the collet and I'll tighten this down that can be done simply with a punch because these holes go all the way through our spanner wrench I've taken the liberty simply with a black marker to mark the six spots and in this particular device this little lever here goes into a hole perhaps you can hear it click in now so I'll go clear around and do that but I have noticed that I need to hold this there's no way of locking it or tightening it so I will be holding this so it can't pop out which is a possibility I think as I make my cut which causes some vibration and I'll just use a 1/2 in milling cutter no big deal I am fully aware that there may not be another machinist and all of Christendom that has a hardened super spacer or whatever we call this but many of you will have one of these little index devices and these are quite cheap and that could be used and the principle will be almost exactly the same and I will tighten the drawbar it's like that and that's not gonna go anyplace now there's two ways to do this I could touch off or I could use an edge finder or simply move this in until the cutter lines up with the layout line and that's the way I'm going to do it because this just isn't all that critical that you can suit yourself on that so that's how you make one location and if you do the math you'll realize that this is one-eighth inch deep and so I'll touch off with the cutter and then just raise the table by 125 thousandths simple enough and lock the table and the x-axis you you and that's all there is to it and the wrench fits just fine this dimension should be point 688 or there abouts so I'm within 4,000 s and there's quite a bit of leeway on that if you look in the little black book alright the work is held in a three jaw Chuck and I'm going to file a nice bevel or chamfer or crown on there now you want to do this left-handed for safety but I simply can't do a thing with my left hand you you and now the nut is screwed on to a 3/8 bolt that is held in the Chuck jaws basically do the line okay that turned out quite nicely using the little hardens fixture or you could use your spin index you can change any dimensions you want if you want the flange to be a little thicker or a little thinner or you want the nut to be taller but this is the same dimensions at the black book calls for and the sample here you also can blew it with gun glue or do anything you want to it just leave it the way it is now as I do the larger sizes of 1/2 and the 5/8 I do not intend to show the drilling and tapping and cutting off alright let's move on to the next size which is 1/2 inch okay in this part of the video I'm going to make the half-inch thread flange nut using this blank remember there's one in 1/8 diameter I have already put some layout lines on there and they sure don't show up very well do they and this will be held in the three jaw Chuck of this Hardinge four to one racial dividing head or index head so I got to talk just a little bit about how to do the dividing on this and then since you will not have a four to one that's kind of an orphan if you do have a dividing head that's probably a forty to one so I'll go through that real real briefly with the Hardinge head now four to one ratio and we're going to divide six sides so that's just six divisions is all it is so the formula if you want to call it a formula is just four over six I have four different plates for the hardness dividing head three I just showed you and one already on there and the one that's already mounted is plate number one with those holes I just assumed used that plate but I would be able to use other plates as well but I'm going to use the one because the 18 holes are is what I'm going to use and I'll show you why the value of a fraction does not change if you multiply both the numerator and denominator by a number for instance if I multiply four times two and six times two we simply have what eight over twelve well there is no plate with twelve holes so let's multiply it again this time by three so that would give me what twelve over eighteen remember all of these fractions here have the same value so I will use plate number one with eighteen holes and I will have to move I know I'm stammering here a little bit twelve holes on the 18 whole circle for each side of the hexagon most of you will have a dividing head different brands forty to one ratio seems to be the standard I sold my big Cincinnati dividing head because the only way to move it was with a bobcat so the formula if you want to call it one is 40 over six and if we divide that out that equals to 6 and for six turns for each side of the hexagon I am pretty sure you would have a plate that has 24 holes as we know there's none with six so if we multiply the top and the bottom times four we have 6 and 16 24 so if you are using a plate with 24 holes you would turn it 6 and 16 24 for each side of the hexagon is that clears moderate all the crank is set so that the pin will drop into the whole circle that I just mentioned that has 18 holes and I've set the sector here for nine holes so here's what I'd be doing for each division I will turn it like this nine spaces the four to one ratio is very fast-acting compared to that 41 so that's all I'm doing and then they would move this like this after I make my cut and right there I'd be ready for the next cut that's all there is to it this is really simple to use now let me go ahead and set this up on the bridge board I won't show that all right here is the setup the dividing head is mounted to the table of the milling machine by two T bolts that's a three-quarter cutter and I've already located it I'm not going to show that because I showed that in the earlier part that's basically the same but there's one eighth of an inch depth of cut and as far as the x-axis I just lined the cutter up with the layout line the plate is on zero and ready to cut and I do lock this with this little wrench here each time I make a cut so there's just six cuts to make let's see how it goes okay I managed to lose the footage for that first for the first two spots but I think it'll be alright unlike this sorry about that you you let's see if the wrench fits nice fit ready to take out well that cutter was a bit dull after all and left horrendous burrs but into the lay that goes for deburring drilling tapping and then cutting off again I won't show that I'll be back through the magic of television almost instantly with it finished you see I told you I would want to take a minute or less you know when you try to power tap with tap like this they typically slip on you in the Jacobs Chuck because it's hardened it just cannot get a grip but the nut is done so I did have to do some hand tapping I guess us or I was going with that looks pretty good again that's the half 13 okay that's what we got so far this is the one I just finished they're still warm it's just nice finish it is pretty decent although it's not important you can do as much or as little as you want with the finish now I have a couple irrelevant questions what I pick considered anal in that I have to wipe off and clean my drill bits when I before I return them now here's one that's dirty somebody else must have used it I really bothers me and the other thing is I have talked about this kind of candy cane type nut tap before are you familiar with it the beauty of this type of tap is used in production and it's a continuous thing that the nuts is strictly for nuts run right through here one right after the other and they do not have to back up event surely a whole row of them here drop off I've talked about that before haven't I these are nut taps okay I'm quitting for the day even though this is just a 15 minute video so far I spent the whole day on I believe it or not a lot of setups you know and I'm gonna take a little rest watch abbey western and tomorrow tackle this in the same video that's the 5/8 one the most important one to be made out of this slug and I will do that on the rotary table so see you in a few minutes well I'm back in it's a new day and this is the third part of the video I've already made a 3/8 and 1/2 inch flange nut and today we'll tackle the 5/8 the largest of the three and again here is my stock one a 3/8 diameter and I have already marked it using the height gauge I just don't go from layout lines because it isn't that critical the overall thickness here according to the sample is 816 thousandths was a two hundred thousandth washer and the balance there is six hundred and sixteen thousand so that's ready to go now this will be using the rotary table and the way I'm doing it here really your blank here has to be relatively short so there's a lot of waste stock when you do these methods and if you had to buy this material I just had it on the Shelf it would cost you more than what the nut would cost I suppose these are three or four or five dollars a piece at the most and our case-hardened a quality product so what we're doing here isn't really that practical it's just fun to do and n useful if you do have the material on hand but some of you are just watching this for the pure pleasure I hope is everybody happy I'm at the Bridgeport mill and this is the Walther rotary table which is 250 millimeter made in Germany you know which is about 10 inch so this setup here is over our so and it's fun to do but it's not something you can do real quickly and I showed this in a very recent video when I did index plates and I showed you how to indicate this in so that's already done and it's been shown and several about video so I will not do well on that but that's the very first thing you have to do and then clamp it down firmly and you will notice that I'm using the peat blocks so the center of the Bridgeport spindle is perfectly on center with the rotary table but let me digress just a moment here now the original owner of this rotary table was Bubba it's probably had several other owners but he's very strong armed and ignorant as well so you can see it's broken out in several places now that's not only because he was a very strong man but what can happen if you're using the wrong kind of t-nuts where the stud can go all the way through like that what can happen is that it literally jacks itself up and breaks out the castings probably more likely that that has happened than just tightening the work down I do not know that for sure but be very careful it doesn't happen to you most of the t-nuts are staked so the stud can only go in so far let's get back to the business at hand well next how are we going to hold the work on to the rotary table well I'm going to use the three jaw Chuck they're called the other ways of doing it but now the three jaw Chuck itself has to be centered also with the spindle and the center of the rotary table so I do that just by a simple method here it's probably only semi accurate of bringing a stud down tightening the Chuck and then putting the clamps on and I won't show that all because that's really kind of irrelevant to this I don't want to spend too much time showing the setup I've already spent too much time okay there's what the final setup looks like now since this is a rotary table and I will be milling a hexagon I'm not going to do it with the wheel that's disconnected I'm just going to rotate this by the protractor for the six different sides let me zoom in on that okay zooming in on the protractor now there's the zero mark so I'll take my first cut at zero then unlock the table I'll lock it during each cut and move it to 60 degrees lock it move it to 120 and then 180 240 and 300 I'll show you that on my little cheat sheet and there it is of course each side of a hexagon is 60 degrees to the next one all right I still have to locate the cutter at a relationship to the work and it's still on center of course now you can take the cutter out and put an edge finder and find the edge but that's just one other step it can be do math done mathematically by moving the table the radius of the cutter plus the radius of the work and that is one point zero six two that's one in 1/16 of an inch so I'm going to move it out and I'm watching the digital readout which of course you cannot see and there are I am at one point 602 and I'm right on the edge of the work and now I'll move the quill down or the table up it doesn't matter 616 thousandths that's that dimension there's but I'm just going by the layout line you could dial it in if you want and then lock the quill boy there's a lot of steps aren't there okay the depth this way moving in here is a hundred and fifty six thousands I'm going to take that in to passive so 100 and then that be the roughing and then they're 56 on the finishing so you'll see me moving it here 100,000th right there locking the table and the x-direction I don't want to climb male here I question the rigidity a little bit of this set up because I got these spindly little screws here and I don't want it to spin around so I'm ready to finally cut here on side one you you okay that's the preliminary rough cut and that looks pretty good I've returned the rotary table to zero degrees and I've increased that depth of cuts so now I'm at a hundred and fifty six thousand so I'm going to go around to the six sides again here we go you you and it fits perfectly and I'm ready to take it out of the Chuck let's go to the bench well there it is ready to be drilled tapped cut off and face and we'll do all of that off-camera the video is so long already and I am pleased with it let me point out that the hole could have been drilled and tapped ahead of time and then just cut off you know there are different orders of operation there I'm just trying to stay consistent with what I've been doing all right back in a few minutes well there it is the finished nut and that was a pretty big job really just to make one not because of all the setups they was at 17:30 seconds hole tapped with a 5/8 11 unified national course tab it would be ready to use and there it is with the others before I close just one other thing I talked about this earlier in the video my homemade jig certainly made out of steel not on a maple like this one but that was just a teaching aid which I wasted 30 minutes on in my life making by the way but a collet block like this hexagon hexagon could certainly be used in the milling machine voice with a larger collet of course and you'd probably be limited up to the size maybe of half inch but that's probably the easy way a goal especially compared to using the rotary table well that's it ladies and gentlemen three different ways to produce flange nuts for your machine shop this is mr. Pete saying so long for now and I'll see you next time you

Channel: mrpete222

Views: 251,653

Rating: 4.9150443 out of 5

Keywords: machineshop, machinist, jackofalltrades, jack of all trades, machine shop auction, garage sales, machine shop

Id: zwce7A-DeSw

Length: 33min 13sec (1993 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 01 2020