SHOP TIPS #278 Making a Center Drill Driver ANNEALING tubalcain

how do you again as tubal-cain and this is machine shop tips number 278 entitled making a sinner drill driver for the Atlas lathe now what is a center drill driver you've seen this in one of my recent videos and it's nothing more than a Morse taper with a hole in it and this is specifically made to hold Center drills and normally we're doing it with a standard Jacob's Chuck of whatever Morse taper size a machine you're working on and we hold our Center drill this way and Center drilling is a very common operation you're just doing it constantly so it's much easier and more compact if you use a center drill driver to hold the center drill and it can be dedicated for that purpose now my favorite size of center drill is on number four that's this size here and it's five sixteenths diameter on the body and eighth inch diameter on the tip so that's the one I use the most often and evidently that's what Cleveland decided when they made this many years ago to accommodate a number four and this is the number two Morse taper made by the Cleveland company and it's marked five sixteenths and then there's a stock number on there and it has a Tang on it I don't know if they make these anymore I did a little bit of research and I could not find it but it's not simply a holder it not only is a split so that when you put it in to the tailstock or the drill press it compresses and holds the work but it's also machined inside such that when you insert the center drill and I showed this on the other video and push it all the way in and then rotate it you will feel it lock and click into position like that I doubt if you can hear that but it is locking in this position so now let's go over to the Atlas lathe and I'll show you the advantages of using this but before I do that in this video I'm going to show you how to Annie - softened steel so we'll be sure and stick around for that this is the tailstock of the 12 inch Atlas craftsman lathe now look at how much more compact this driver is than the drill chuck and how much less it extends out now sometimes that might be a minor nuisance but and that goes in you see how much shorter that it is and that will be a big advantage for some and possibly a disadvantage for others but I like these years ago long before I even knew that there was such a thing as a manufactured driver I had made one myself now I just took an old drill bit that had number two Morse taper and I cut it off and drilled it then put a set screw and that's what we're going to do today only in a larger size taper a number three taper but you can see how simple that really is and that's what we're going to do today but let me show you another thing again I want to make it in a number three this particular product right here whatever you want to call this this is an end mill holder and this was made for the Atlas lathe and it takes this goes in the headstock which is a number three Morse taper and it's held in with a drawbar and the purpose of this actually is not to hold a center drill but that certainly would work and that's what I've been using it for but the purpose was to hold an end mill so that you could use the milling attachment on an Atlas lathe and it is not proper or it is not workable to hold your end mill in a three jaw Chuck it will work its way out whether it's the big chuck or a drill chuck you need a holder like this and this was badly damaged this is brand new but it was badly damaged by mouse urine over the years I showed that in one other video that I had and then this little box here which is to buy mice was a series of adapters that was used it looked like this used to hold different size and mills in this device but this could be used also as a driver but let me show you the disadvantage of this because there is no tang and I want look one with the Tang and you'll see why momentarily and this is what it looks like on the Clausing li then you can see again how much shorter is then a Jacob's Chuck but remember that a little flat has to be ground onto the center drill and this held with a set screw in order to to hold the center drill in place and keep it from turning whereas this device is self holding now a disadvantage to using this end mill adapter that I'm using and it would work fine but it is hard to get out that is I can back that the tailstock out and it is not going to release because there's no Tang on it so in this case in order to get it to release it's a little bit awkward because I use this this brass wedge and of course then it comes right out but I want to make mine with the Tang and then I won't have that problem so what is your source for a Morse taper shank to make one of these and I'm going to show you here but some of you are going to be disappointed because I'm not going to turn a Morse taper on the lathe that may be a subject much later on down the line but that is not all that easy to do and it makes the project too laborious and long so I'm going to sacrifice this old drill bit this bad on the end by annealing it and cutting it off and there is my number three Morse taper the same as I did at one time with this this number two and then I never did use it now another source is to buy Jacobs arbors but these also are going to be hardened well at least most of them are hardened and you cannot machine them drill them or do anything with them until you anneal them so that's a problem so here is what they call a blank Morse taper but this one also is well this one is dead saw and it's quite usable and I did buy that for a project at one time but this is the drawbar type that does not have a tang but these are available with the tang also so if you can find one for under ten dollars go ahead and get some of these maybe get several of them for different jobs but that's nicely machined and ready to go this wouldn't even have to be turned down although it's it would be a bit bulky to use so this is my source and now I'm going to go over to the little heat trading furnace and we're going to anneal this that that means to soften it to take the hardness away to repeat myself this is an annealing operation and that will take the heat treat out and soften the metal to its original state however this is tool steel and I had to give four bucks for that so that I can cut it off my little Johnson two burner furnace here I believe is making its debut and this is actually a little heat trading furnace or soldering furnace and it's lined with asbestos so don't tell the EPA or OSHA or anybody on me and I don't think this furnace was ever fired until the other day but it's using natural gas and this has a pilot light on it's a lot nicer than the ones that I had at school so it's ready to up to fire and then I'm going to put this in just like that and let it heat up for it'll probably take about 15 minutes until this is cherry red and at that point I'm not going to do anything with it I'm going to turn the burners off and I'm going to let it cool as slowly as possible on the whole idea with with annealing is to let it cool slowly well where's the best place to do that and that is to leave it in the first because the entire furnace is pretty darn hot by that time and it will take several hours for it to cool down or at least one hour so let's turn that little beauty on and see what we got blow like that let's take another look at it in a few minutes it's not quite there I want it to be cherry red all the way through its thickness so it needs to stay in there a little longer and that's what we call soaking soaking means that it is getting to the cherry red color throughout its full diameter and when we get there to that temperature that is called the critical temperature that is in the area of red around 1500 degrees and at the critical temperature it also loses its magnetism and many people do not know that okay that's been about ten minutes in all and it is at the critical temperature this is a magnet absolutely no magnetism there now I'm going to put it into the furnace and just leave it there I'll even put a little cover on there to retain the heat and it's going to stay in there for about an hour or so whatever I decide and then it can be cooled but do not cool it in water now or you have negated the entire operation this is the standard heat treating chart that is in virtually every book and I'm sure you have seen one and this is put out by the temple company that makes those temple sticks that I showed you in another video but along the side here you can see the temperature in degrees Fahrenheit and it starts turning just a little bit red right about a thousand 1000 degrees and it gets redder and redder and up here in the zoom in just a little bit 1500 degrees there's a lot more information here than you need to know but right about 1500 degrees here is the critical temperature matter Vecchia says there's the magnetic point there at 1400 degrees so we do not really want it any hotter than that and when you go you go higher and higher and higher it gets it turns yellow and then eventually that's a well liquid at 2900 degrees so we're not interested and I were interested in the red colors cherry red in the in the center there I have no other way of measuring that temperature here other than by eyeing it and that is the time-tested method that blacksmiths and heat treaters used for hundreds of years but now there are fancy instruments to do that which I do not have and you probably do not either so but but this is really easy just cherry red bright red okay it's the next day and the drill bit is long cooled and is annealed so I have no good way of checking it such as a rockwell hardness checker so we'll just use an old file and we'll see if it's soft and I can easily file a groove in there and now I'm ready to saw it off but before I saw it off I want to do one other operation and that is to mill a flat on there which I will use for the set screw hole so just a little bit of a flat because later on if I cut it off first there's just no good way to hold this in the milling machine now that could be ground as well but I'm going to very quickly take it over to the milling machine and hold it by the flutes and put a little bit of a flat on there the drill bit is set up in the milling machine here holding it by the flutes and let's see if it's soft enough to mill yes indeed it is dead soft and that's good enough I'm sawing it off with a hand hacksaw just in the event that I ran into some hard spots lest I destroy my bandsaw blade so these are cheap blades I'll morosely saw through that that could be done with probably on the lathe of the cutoff tool or on the lathe with the hand hacksaw which is a little bit dangerous but be sure and wear your glasses now at all times in the shop there it is I put in a brand new starett blade and it went right through paint from the new blade and there's the flat now what I plan to do is to machine this right in the atlas lathe because it has a number three spindle so this will fit right into the spindle without using any adapters or any other nonsense that might bring error into the whole job because I would like this hole to be nice and concentric so the first thing I'll do is put it in the lathe and face this off so let's step over to the atlas craftsman I took a minor detour on the way to the craftsman and I stopped at the Clausing and I chucked up the work and I think I failed to tell you that when you heat treat it invariably puts a scale on the work and I want to take that scale off or just brighten it up a little bit before I put it into the taper so that I know that it will run true nothing fancy but polish it up just a little bit your scale is too bad I have to file it away now let's face reality here 10,000 people will watch this video but only two will actually probably make a center drill driver but there are many other operations that I'm showing you here and shop techniques that may be helpful to all of you armchair machinists and other people that just enjoy doing this this type of work in your shop so I brighten that up but you can see that there are still spots there from from heating it but that doesn't hurt a thing so make sure you clean your number three spindle thoroughly and you can oil that just a little bit if you want wipe that off and pop it in there and protect your spindle thread so I'll put a thread protector on there you know if you ruin your threads on your lathe you got to throw the lay of the way so now that's that's ready to face I think I'll tap that ever so lightly with my lead hammer here if I can find it or my brass drift and that's going nowhere now I'll face the end with makar bide tool that squares it up nicely and Ameri downs with the approximate dimension that I want which is a very uncritical this diameter is not critical either but I'm going to take a light cut across and remove that trademark and I hopefully have made that flat deep enough so I won't machine it off I could turn the spindle speed way up but I'm not in the mood for taking the time not deep enough the diameter of a number for Center drill has said before is 5/16 so I need to remit 5/16 therefore I will Center iLET that's also a number 4 and then I'm going to use a quarter inch as a pilot drill and then this is one size under 5/16 and then I will remit 5/16 now it's very important that we get that on center so that again it is concentric and in order to do that of course I'm going to use a center drill and I'm going to engage it very slowly so that it finds the center and I do know that the offset on the tailstock here is has been checked and it is in good order but if your offset isn't zero you're going to have a problem we come in real slowly I've already drilled 1964's inch and a quarter deep and this is the five sixteenths reamer so much for that I blew the whole out countersunk at first blew it out put a center drill in there it's just in there it's a nice fit I'm not going to pull it out and cut myself and I put an indicator on there and I am within one thousandth of an inch I would like it to be zero but you know I would like a lot of things but I'm very satisfied with it being within 1,000 I just looked at the footage and I actually on the indicator was a about mm off wasn't one thousand but some of that comes into that sloppy spindle which you you saw me indicate in one of the other videos and that the bearings are not good on that lathe there's over a thousand slop just by grabbing it and wiggling it anyway I laid out the hole here and that's going to be drilled for a 1024 set screw so as 5/32 tap drill size and there's the 1024 tap and you know everything around the shop has become magnetized and it's actually quite a nuisance so I got a demagnetize thing but I'm using so many magnets now that it's coming back to haunt me so I'm not going to show that but I have to be careful to hold this in the vise by the cylindrical part here not by the taper because that it's difficult to hold the taper I fail to mention this a few minutes ago but you simply must get these double-ended carbide holders they're just wonderful and I have them in both the a size and the B size so get yourself some and they're not cheap but they don't cost any more than people waste on Starbucks each week and I do emphasize waste now I know I'm preaching to the choir but before I tap this hole and I drilled it 5/32 but then I counter bore it with a 3/16 so that I don't have to tap quite so much and that again that acts as a guide and here's a little fluid and as soon as I tap that I'll run the reamer through here again just by hand in order to take the bar out just one last thing to do before it's completed and there needs to be a flat on the center drill to keep it from revolving in other words to lock it in place it's not self locking like this other one it commercially made Cleveland one so I'd like a flat something like this on the end mill here that can be done several different ways it can just be done with a dremel or it can be done on the corner of your grinding wheel it's just not important at all but that looks so unprofessional but yet it works so let me try another method here and see if I can grind a proper flat on the lay of using the do-more thanks to the good folks at do-more corporation up in Racine Wisconsin I'm going to use this I reiner that they gave me and it's mounted here and in a do-more holder in the Alaris and I've never done this operation because remember that the work is not going to revolve and I've got about an inch and a quarter cutter in there I'm just going to go back and forth like this in order to grind that flat now I've never done an operation like this and it it may be a failure but let's let's give it a try and this I believe is the inaugural event here the debut of my do-more grinder and I've been doing a lot of debuting here today now there's no good way to feed it up and down so I'm going to take one pass and then I'll have to very carefully lower this a little bit in the lower stool post possibly using a feeler gauge that to come down but certainly the dimensions are not critical and the width of the wheel here is going to be the width of the flat alright let's see how this works I'm just feeding with the cross feed by the way I'm wearing a goggles here and I protected the bed I've got a belay that I've got a little bit of a a rag down there to catch the grinding dust all right I believe that satisfactory I took a couple passes across it I believe it would worked a little better if I had taken the time to dress the wheel because the the wheel and the holder here is not quite in alignment but I didn't want to take the time to do that so good enough because it's all I need here is a flat for the setscrew line up the flat with the set screw and I drilled the hole just the right depth so that this is bottom doubt and will not get pushed back in any farther when I use it to to center drill tighten this up nicely against the flat again a number three Morse taper a number four center drill but you could make this for any size center drill that your little heart desires this is the 12-inch Clausing lathe and I made this specifically for this lady and remember that the Clausing lathes have a Tang slot so that has to be lined up with the Tang slot in the tailstock and that's ready to go and now just for the pure pleasure of it I believe I'll drill a center hole the sweet smell of success that concludes this video on how to make a number three Morse taper Center drill driver hope you liked it I hope you enjoyed the part on annealing if you've never seen that before tell your friends about this and be sure and watch my hundreds of other videos and this is tubal-cain saying so long for now

Channel: mrpete222

Views: 177,805

Rating: 4.9489226 out of 5

Keywords: clausing lathe, south bend lathe, atlas, sherline lathe, mrpete222

Id: IXow4alm2bU

Length: 26min 36sec (1596 seconds)

Published: Sat May 14 2016