LIVE - DOVETAIL DEMONSTRATION

so [Music] [Music] oh [Music] [Music] huh [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] good [Music] uh [Music] hey [Music] [Music] do [Music] hello everybody and welcome to our first live demonstration of cutting a dovetail joint which i was meant to have next to me there we go in this video we're going to be cutting a dovetail joint and we've got a lot of cool content planned for you so make sure to stick around it's going to be a great demonstration obviously you can answer ask any questions or whatever we don't really care but we're going to try rolling intro now let's get going [Music] are we back did we do it we did yes right brilliant so dovetail joints pretty much the benchmark of how good you are at woodworking if that's even a sentence we'll go with it so in this demonstration we'll be going through everything such as marking out uh cutting the tails we're gonna be cutting the pins we're gonna be planing it flush and everything like that and i'll also probably chuck in a few extra tips such as sawing techniques chiseling techniques layout techniques all those other things that you need in order to make this a successful process there are a lot of skills that go into this and it's very important you get them all to a basic level of understanding if not intermediate before getting successful at cutting these so we have got a piece of rosewood and we got a nice old piece of sycamore here which we're going to be cutting the tails on the sycamore and we're going to be cutting the pins in the rosewood for those of you who are not aware of dovetailing terminology rob can we swap to this close camera for us hang on a second let me just get this if it was output if it was on there we go right now good smashing so i've tried to keep the color scheme somewhat the same so we can kind of use this as a reference throughout the entire demonstration so lighter one is going to be the tails this is the male part of the joint i suppose and then we got the dark one here which is the pins so there we go i guess let's get into some marking out right where's that pencil i just sharpened here we go we can stay on this camera because this is pretty good so the first thing with this is we need to work out which face is going to be out on the joint to spin it like that which face is going to be out and which face is going to be up this prevents you from accidentally making a box for example that shape where it becomes an s so obviously you don't want that that's the importance of putting these face sides and face edges is what we refer to them as because it prevents you from doing that i've done it countless times throughout my career in woodworking it's not fun when it happens so we want to minimize that risk let's put these aside face side and face edge marks very simple kind of looks like a weird fish you got there's the head of the fish i guess and then the tail is up here it'll be a little bit more easy to see on here so there's the head and there is the tail so you can see you've got this little tick mark the nice thing about that is when you look at it from above it's kind of like an arrow pointing to the side that is the face side i suppose that's a little bit easier and then the other thing i would do if i was making a box i would number each of the edges as well or each of the joints just to make sure that we get them the correct way round let's make that a one and this a one as well now we won't do an entire box in this demonstration because that'll take bloody ages but we will i'll kind of use a box as a reference throughout this just so you know it's the basic thing you do with dovetails i suppose so if i was doing this as a box i would always label it one and one don't be tempted to label one component one and then this one two three four five six seven eight because it gets confusing then at the end of the day one equals one two two three three it's much easier that way right now we need to square these off because i haven't done that yet so if we go to the main camera first right oh hello there we go main camera yeah sweet cool right so what we've got here is a shooting board i'm going to hold it up so you can see it it's a big old beautiful thing shooting board this is my ramped shooting board uh slight adaptation on the traditional design that many of you are used to seeing this effectively skews or yeah skews the cut i suppose shears the cut so you get a nice clean edge and it uses more of the blade thus uh giving you longer between sharpenings because sharpening is pretty boring let's be fair we want to do it as little as often so by extending those sharpening sessions or extending the time between them it's a win-win i get a lot of questions about this shooting board saying do you need a shooting plane in order to use this no the only thing you got to do is remove this little hook thing that goes down the side of the track um and then you can use your standard bench planes jack planes jointed planes whatever you want on it i don't really care block planes as well hello hello indeed i would just like to say that mick carter is in is in the chat and he's just asking is this an older video is this an older video no this is live mick make you have literally like we're here it's what's the date six minutes past six on fire six minutes past six on a friday 10th of july 2020 all right so you're watching this live if you've got any questions i am here to answer them for you it's great they're great that you're here um right let's get shooting these down so if we go to this camera please there we go right face side and face edge there we go that is so useful having that monitor there oh yeah it is brilliant right i don't even have to have that when i'm normally filming so face side and face edge there's the edge there it's very important that that edge goes against the shooting board so if we're playing this end square it's obviously against the shooting board and then if we're planing this side you need to make sure that you flip it end to end like that to ensure that it's still against the fence reason for this is if this is slightly tapered in any weird direction it gets cancelled out because it's got the same reference surface it's hard to explain but just make sure it's always pressed against here i'm going to stop chatting let's get planing this now obviously we said if you've got any questions feel free to fire them in the comments section so while i'm doing these mundane tasks rob do we have any questions oh that is a great point i haven't been looking i've been so desperately focusing on everything else um but i think everyone's just been invested on the fact that uh you've got shorter hair uh yeah i do i do my girlfriend cut it for me no she didn't she did yeah really yeah did you not know that yeah yeah rosie cut it for me i had no idea yeah pretty damn mental in it i think uh kitchen was a right old mess but thank you for your i assume there were kind comments about my hair hmm yeah let's say yes that's kind of than what i've received from rob at least so we got that one is now square to the face edge and then we'll just quickly do this rosewood one i'm not looking forward to dovetailing this because this stuff is hard as nails there we go look at that end grain shavings it's just like magic can i just mention something else that we've got going on absolutely we've got a new way of donating so if you donate via streamlabs.com matissely you will get your message shown up on screen just like tim scott just did so go for that and uh youtube doesn't get the 30 cut but it takes with super chat there you go great awesome could we go to the main camera please so yeah just to extend my thanks to tim scott as well thank you for sending the belvita as well very kind of you workshop fuel right next step we need to we need to use a marking gauge to establish the baselines of both of these components now ideally if you're doing this in a larger project with lots of different thicknesses going on let's say a thinner drawer sides thicker drawer fronts you want to have two marking gauges one set to the thick component one set to the thin one that way if you accidentally miss one of the components when you're marking out or you need to re-cut a component or something like that i don't know for whatever reason you've got a marking gauge that's always locked to that exact thickness it's all very well trying to get it back to it but if you're working to those fine tolerances you don't want to be moving this backwards and forwards you want to have them absolutely locked solid but i chipped the cutter on this so we're not going to use that in this instance can you do it without one of those marking gauges yes you can yes you can you can knife on the baselines um which i guess i could show you how to do it's quite tricky it's quite tricky but i can show you how to knife on a bass line let's do that that'll be quite fun right what's going on with this now could we go to the bench camera again please okay so we're gonna set the thickness uh yeah set the depth of the marking gauge to the thickness of the pins to start with so we'll unlock the gauge i like to do this just simply by dropping it on there like that and then lock it down sorted and then that gets scratched around all four sides of this lighter component you do it around all four sides because on these edges here that gets removed on the front and it also gets removed on the edge here when it comes to doing the pins you don't need to remove the sides so we don't bother scratching them on all four sides on this it's just on the pin component you'll do it on all sorry just on the tail component you'll do it on all four on the pins you only do it on two now with marking gauges light pressure to start with then gradually increase it if you try and dig to china in your first pass it's going to track all over the place and you're not going to get a nice straight line now say this over and over again you cannot expect to get good results from a joinery if you're working to inaccurate lines everything you do here needs to be bang on because that's going to be what you're using throughout the rest of the process so that's scratch around all four sides let's reset the gauge to the thinner one now look it down double check so that's our one that's the corner that's being joined we're not doing this one are you concerned about leaving the marking lines cuts on the outside of the box says stan okay all right let's get this scratched around and then if we go to the main camera all right so with leaving marking gauge lines on afterwards i tend to leave them on there because it shows that it's hand cut and i don't think there's a right or wrong for this what i would say and this is what i mark down students at reich atwood when i'm grading them at the end of the year if you're going for if you want to leave the marking gauge lines on at the end of the project make sure it's consistent make sure you leave it on on all of the joints don't try and plane half them off and then leave markings on the remainders likewise if you want to remove them make sure that they are fully removed across all of them it just looks a bit weird if you have it in some places and not in others that's my two cents on it obviously completely up to you but make it consistent is all i would say the other thing before we go back to the other camera is in the demonstration i did well on the dovetail video i filmed about two and a half years ago i set the marking gauge to be a little bit protruding past the components so that way when it's assembled you get a bit of overhang afterwards which you can plane off that's a great way of doing it in this instance i've just done it i just haven't done that i suppose uh just to make it a little bit easier to see what we're doing i suppose that makes any sense that makes a lot of sense i've just got a question here from ben he says hi matt would you consider making a video on how to build slash use a shooting board love your work i would love to do that in fact i've already done it was his name ben yeah ben go and search on youtube for how to make a ramped shooting board and there's a whole video on how to make the one i literally just showed at the start of this live stream if that's a little bit too flash for you and you just want something that you could just clamp down and get going search for how to square end grain dash matistly or something like that it's a really old video when i used to do two minute tuesday videos and essentially you can create a shooting board from two pieces of timber and two clamps instantly anywhere dining room table saw horses with a top on them anything like that so type in how to square end grain and you'll find one of my old videos probably about two and a half years old now uh on how to square engrade be really useful tim also asks with a nine pound ninety nine uh super chat which would rather nice oh tim plans for the shooting board available on your website bud yes they most certainly are i love this people are just like throwing me this is brilliant yeah so shooting ball plans are available on my website if you'd like to make one of these ramp shooting boards yourself i will say it's not completely necessary i'm not going to tell you that you need a ramp shooting board to have successful shooting um but it's just a really nice adaptation on the original design that has a few extra benefits that you don't need but are really nice when you have them that's what i'm going to say on that uh right let's get marking out the tails so i'm going to shift this camera around so we can see what we're doing here i suppose you could here let's go around here that's the wrong component now is that all good yeah in fact what i might do if you just bring it around to the front a little bit more because i'm going to be marking it out with these because i want to show people this technique it's quite quite a fun one let's get a bit closer perfect if it just does a little focus there we go right so we're going to be marking these out with dividers now it's very easy to mark these out with rulers if you have a working drawing to work to but if you're just you know if you're doing it slap dash like i am now where it's just you got this component you want to join to this one and you want x number of tails dividers are amazing for it so the first thing you need to do with dividers is set how far in you want the first tail to be so if we look at this component from the edge here that's kind of the distance that we're going about five mil or something like that is usually what i go for i might go for a bit more because i feel like i might split a dovetail today and i want to give myself as much chance as possible of not doing that so we'll just mark in either side a little point i'm assuming you can see that on the camera yeah close enough so we've got a little point in fact what i'll do is i'll just highlight them for you so you can see them a bit easier point there and a point there now let's say we want to do i reckon we could squeeze three dovetails into this it's going to be a bit of a push but we can do it what you do is you guess so i reckon the dovetail is going to be roughly this big and what's important about this is that this distance on the dove on the dividers is the space of one tail plus one pin so one tail one pin all right so let's do that i'm saying it's going to be somewhere like that and we'll just very lightly we're not pressing in at this point we just go one two three oh i am good aren't i so this distance that is overstepping this mark by is going to be the size of these pins here all right so normally it would take a few more attempts than that you've got to adjust the spacing every now and then but we've got that pretty bang on so we'll try it again this time i'll actually press it in because i'm quite happy with that press in one two then we won't press it in there what we end up doing is we move that to the other mark that's this side one and you walk back the other way two and then you don't bother doing that then what we'll do if i just quickly grab my dovetail marker which is we'll go for a one in six with these if i just quickly square this along the top and down the front assume my hair won't get in the way down there down there so for this i'm going to be using a one in six dovetail ratio i'll explain dovetail ratios in a second let me just quickly get this marked out great time for questions now if there's any well barry uh sorry butch said will this still be available for watching after the live presentation of course yeah of course yep and we had what was it up here someone called picarto i saw earlier basically he asked whether or not this is possible to do with a set of cheap chisels and cheap tools and a speed square uh yeah absolutely um the tools i'm using here are quite premium i will say but i mean yeah when i started off i was using pretty cheap tools to do it um i'll talk a little bit about chisels later because there is one important thing that you need to have with the chisels um but other than that yeah you can definitely do it with cheap tools 100 so sorry i've got another one here from mr trozak says are you using calipers to compare everything if yes what is acceptable differences calipers to compare everything there are these dividers uh i guess so yeah i use these dividers to mark out the tails um if you rewind about five minutes you'll see exactly how i did that in fact i also do it in my dovetail demonstration video as well so you can search for that there's a little segment on how to do this but effectively you just mark out the size of one tail plus one pin you walk one way you get there then you walk back the other way and then voila you get lovely space tails without any of the mathematics which we like nice hashtag maths with matt john says can you tell the brand and name of the tools you are using sure thing um let's go to main camera so i should have said this right at the start let me go around it because it's better lighting if you have a question about any of the tools i'm using in this demonstration you need to have a look at kits.com sorry kit dot co forward slash matt estely all right so anything you see on this bench is listed on there planes chisels strops sharpening equipment other things i don't really know everything that you see will be listed on kit dot co forward slash matt estely what i'd like to say on that is if you purchase any of the items after clicking on that item in kit i will get a teeny tiny commission at no extra cost to you so if you like the look of something here go onto kit.com and then you'll be able to purchase those tools and help support the channel while also earning yourself a lovely shiny tool back to the dovetails this is fun okay so we need to start cutting these out um i'm gonna let's use this camera again fico rounds yeah that'd be quite good right so as you probably saw from the front view i've marked on the waist uh on the front and on the top i'd never really bother doing this on the back because i can't see it from this distance oh sorry from this angle so i just i just go with it like this what i will do however just because you're on that side i'll quickly square them down the back so you can kind of follow what's going on here you should be able to see it hopefully i'll do this the right way off [Applause] and then yeah like i say i'll address the one in six ratio we're using uh in a second because it's quite unconventional that we're using a one in six for hardwoods like this all right there we go so in there so we're going to be using a beautiful badax dovetail saw for this uh and i'll quickly show you how to use the dovetail guys to do this as well so sawing this is so so tricky with dovetailing because ideally you want to get these tails straight off the saw all right if you're trying to faff around chiseling these square afterwards you're going to have an absolute mare now most people will try and prioritize getting this angle absolutely correct which is fine but like i said just said it doesn't really matter if this is a one in six or a one in eight or anything like that i'll explain later what does matter is that this cut along the top is bang on square bang on square because if not let me just get this if the end grain on this is not square it will not go into the component it will wedge it apart can you see that on here yeah you can it will wedge the pins apart if one of these is right yeah it will weigh it apart all right so to do that what i do is i get my thumb on the top and i just you see i've angled the saw up like that uh nibble away at the back corner while slightly lowering the saw down and i've guessed the angle at the moment i don't really know if that angle is right all we're doing is creating a little groove on top to now lock the saw in place that's like about a millimeter deep if that the nice thing about that is now i've established that square cut i've got all this room to angle the saw and correct that angle while also having it locked in perfectly square so long light strokes now down to the baseline being very careful not to cut over now this is another thing on the front i've hit that line pretty accurately on the back i've missed the line this is why i don't square them down the back because it gives you a false sense of inaccuracy i suppose like the fact i haven't hit that line down the back doesn't really matter it probably just means that i've penciled that line around a little bit inaccurately i know that that top square i've literally just watched it track that line and i know that we've matched this one down the front i don't really care what's going on in the back i've said those lines wouldn't even be there normally so now the key to this is long strokes and ideally what you'd do is do all the cuts that way and then all the cuts that way or angle the work piece to match the angle of the dovetails and you can even get a square at the back here to see if you're cutting plumb uh whatever method's absolutely fine i like doing it this way so what i'll do is i'll quickly do these two dovetails here and then we'll use a dovetail guide for the final dovetail so in this instance obviously i'm just literally putting my finger there in order to locate the saw and give it something to run against have you got a ryoba style sauna no i've got a japanese dazuki saw instead but i don't have the ryoba a epoxy this epoxy that is just asking whether you could do it with a different saw as well absolutely that's what i need to use for the dovetail guide so you ask and you shall receive um all right let's go i think that angle's quite good for this actually maybe just get the old rayoba not ryoba duzuki so we need that and we need the six in one dovetail marker okay can i sort your switch back to the main camera look at you here you go this is great so um start with this is a duzuki saw looks pretty awesome when you're carrying it around in a backpack and you've got these hanging out the back like deadpool but we're gonna pair this with the cat's moses dovetail guide and this has got a one in six ratio on it so it's perfect for these tails i've just marked out but it comes in a variety of different ratios as well and it is amazing for beginners to learn dovetails like you can graduate and stop using a dovetail guide eventually or you can just continue using it i use it quite often just because i can't be bothered to think about dovetailing every now and then i just want this to go in there and then cut the dovetails for me up to you though the way this works is you've got one of the faces here has a one in six ratio on it so i simply line that up with the line there it's magnetized so your saw literally just attached attached to the side like that and then in much the same way i kind of tilt the saw up and work that line from back to front so we've got it locked in from the top now you see there's a little line for it to locate in and now we've just got to focus on cutting down it's important with this having a really really light grip on the saw because if you do have if you have too much of a tight grip it's going to throw it away from this dovetail guide all right and so japanese saws are absolutely incredible for beginners as well because they cut on the pull stroke so when people start sores normally they'll kind of drag it back if i do it here cause i'm cutting this area you drag it back and that vibrating sound you hear i'll do it again that's creating lots of tooth shaped divots in the end grain here which means when you try and start the saw again it gets stuck and it launches forward like that so ideally what you would do with the saw in this style is you start on the push stroke which is a lot smoother as you can probably hear it's lovely if you can't get out that habit of dragging a saw back to start the cut just get a um japanese saw because it literally cuts on the pull stroke nice thing about that is when you pull back it pulls itself straight or it pulls the saw of the saw the the plate of the saw straight so they can make it really really thin i mean look at that if that was a push saw that would buckle all over the place so we'll get that in there line up that angle with the line on top magnetize always watch the fingers on the back as well let's get that realigned go for it and so when i'm using this guide i i'm not actually looking at the line i'm cutting that much i'm looking at someone let go of it i'm looking at this here the mating point between the saw and the guide because that is my indication if i'm introducing any sort of tilt on the saw or any kind of angle as long as you keep it tight into the guide you'll get a lovely square cut so down to the baseline there we go smashing all right let me just quickly get my fret saw we're going to start cutting out that waste now now i don't know if rob's put it on the screen or not but if you're interested in getting one of these guides because this is only half the things it can do if not a quarter or a third if you're interested in getting one of these they're only available from jonathan katz moses directly all right you can't get there's no distributors in the uk or anything like that unfortunately just from him directly again if you want to purchase one of these you can do so by following the link on kit that will give me a little commission from jonathan himself i'm very sorry about that i've also put a link in the description but i've only literally just done it hopefully with a correct one do you want to double check it this one oh yeah have a look is that all good smashing okay cool yeah that's in the description people might not see it unless they refresh the page awesome cheers for that all right so we're going to cut out these areas you see that i've scribbled the waist because you don't want to be cutting out the bits we want to keep they're going down here and lovely thing about these fret saws is they're so thin you can like literally do that turn in three strokes with coping saws with thicker blades this is quite difficult especially if you're using a coping saw after cutting with a japanese saw because that coping saw blade probably won't even fit into the japanese saw cut you can see this fret saw only just does it but let's go down here and i go about three quarters of the way down and i angle the saw ever so slightly and drag it back angle it again i'm literally just doing that and then all of a sudden we're horizontal long strokes with this and remove the waist if the saw is binding or you're struggling to turn it or you're struggling to pull it forwards and backwards you're about to break the blade break the blood break the blade which you don't want to do so focus on long strokes light pressure and remove that waste all right so we've done that in fact i'm going to cut the other way as well just so we can get rid of a little bit more waste in there oh blimey these tails are tall very small yeah that'll be right cool let's get this on its side obviously here we are removing this area and removing this area as well let's get my crosscut saw i'm going to treat myself some of you might have saw this in the picnic bench series i've literally just tweet tweeted treated myself to a skeleton crosscut saw from shane skelton himself uh always wanted one of these ordered it like a year ago and it only just came last week and it's stunning it's bloody lovely but i'm going to do a little bit of um yeah like ideally with a saw this good you should be able to cut directly to the line i like cutting away from the line with um when doing this and i like chiseling back to it afterwards to give myself that really crisp shoulder but here i'll show you a close-up afterwards i'm cutting about half a millimeter to a millimeter away from the line on the waist side long strokes [Applause] oh my lord this soy is sharp is that a macro lens on there rob particularly no okay that's fine i'll quickly draw a diagram in a second then lovely all right so can you see that little bit of the shoulder line left on the top there yeah just about cool so we've got a tiny bit that we can chisel back to there afterwards all right smashing okay so let's chisel back to them now now what i like to do is i get as wide of a chisel as possible which is around there hang on and my mallet as well i can't swap cameras from here that's fine roll with it that's good i forgot the chisel sorry bumming shot you have to pay for it next time guys right so tails like i'm left-handed with my chisels so i like having the tails on my left hand side if you do it this way around and you're chiseling down to it like that i don't know there's something a bit weird about it i i don't know i can't explain it people think i'm weird when i do explain it but i find it much easier to have the tails on the side of your dominant hand that you're going to be chiseling with so i'm about a millimeter away from that marking gauge line that i scratched on there if that and so that should be absolutely fine to put the chisel straight into the line if there was any more material than a millimeter i would take off that first and then go back to the line we'll have to do this in the middle so you'll see that in a second so we'll locate it in there be careful not to hit the camera so you see i'm like literally on my knees at the moment and so so i'm basically looking to see if the back of the chisel is square and when it is simply tap down and i'm able to track the knife line that's on the front here yep arm's hurting so we'll gently remove that you see we're left with a lovely crisp corner of the dovetail there do exactly the same here i apologize my hand will shroud this in fact no i'll hold the chisel at the top so you can see so ideally hold the chisel right at the bottom like this because you get so much more control rather than up here like a dagger but we'll do it for this instance so you can see what's going on so up like that make sure it's going at 90 degrees literally watching the line on the front okay clean out that rubbish there gorgeous okay so we're going to need to go to a bench shot now similar to the um shooting board one if you're not too wow rob's having a mare yeah you're right okay um that's right i need to work out what chisel i'm getting anyway okay let's go for that one and mallet that'd be perfect there you this out of the go and let's put that saw back oh let's be sensible put the guard on it your pillock okay so after um after i finished cutting these tails guys we'll have like a cheeky little interview interview interval uh where you can answer any questions about the process so far or any other sort of tangential questions you may have uh before we get stuck in with the pins because this is the this is the harder bit all right uh mallet there we go so i have picked a chisel that is as close to the maximum width that i can fit in these sockets as possible temptation is to go for the small chisel because it's so much easier to just pound in there and get the depth you're looking for but if you do that you're going to end up with some tiny steps on that shoulder line ideally you want to be doing this in one long hit or not one long hit but one long uh width of the chisel that makes no sense but we'll roll with it now there are some instance here uh instances here where the saw cut hasn't quite reached the baseline uh like we're talking half a millimeter or so but if you want really crisp corners on these internal edges here you need to finish that off so what i do is i hold the chisel really really close to the end not here because you're just going to stab your hand right down like that push it against the edge of the tail and just roll it up until i see that point hit the baseline roll it up there we go and that one's fine obviously that one's fine so we'll do this both sides we're way short there there we go the nice thing about this it compresses the fibers slightly so you can see uh what you're doing far easier now to that guy earlier who asked about chisels for this this is the most important thing about the chisels when it comes to dove sailing they need to be bevel-edged chisels so you can see on here these have angled sides on them on some chisels like firmer chisels and mortise chisels in particular they have square sides on them and so how are you going to get a chisel with square sides into the corners of those dovetails you're not right that's the short answer you need some sort of bevel edge chisel that either matches the angle of the dovetail or is more acute now on these lee nilsson's they have a very small flat spot on the side meaning i can't quite get right into the corner i've got to kind of angle it slightly but on some chisels like veritas for example they come down to a complete point on the edge which is incredible for dove sailing not so great when you're holding the chisel like this and you're tapping it down because you end up slicing into your finger um and it yeah it's not great you can take a little bit of sandpaper to the point if you need to but that's why i like the lee nilsson's they got a nice little flat spot and i can easily work around it so here we've got about two millimeters of material to remove so i'm going to remove one millimeter of it to start with and we're going down to halfway so that's gone right in the middle and then we'll just finish off as you can see i'm having to angle the chisel here and just see it see you guys can see and to angle the chisel to get into those corners without bruising it and then we are now close enough to go into the baseline down to half way once again angle it and then you've got a lovely crisp internal angle there we'll do the same here halfway and then chisel into the shoulder line and then just finish it off and ideally when you do this you would clamp the piece down this is not ideal what i'm doing here especially on a nice slick bench you could get your rubber mat mat could get the other mat your other mat your black rubber mat black rubber mat no oh what the non-slip one yeah you could but so uh right give me something squishy squishy my hand your hand oh i'm gonna be chiseling into it so you probably don't want that uh squishy squishy squishy we don't have a lot of squishy well here there you go right so this is something from my uh video on how to use a chisel correctly all right little bonus tip for you i suppose this is about power transfer are you really gonna destroy a belvita for this i'm gonna eat it after okay good so this is about power transfer if you have a component that you're chiseling into on a solid surface like this it's about four inches thick you're gonna get far better power transfer with the uh get a central you're gonna get far better power transfer with the chisel if however your workbench is really thin or you're working on a squishy material like a cushion or a belvita or whatever when you chisel into it that belvita underneath cushion pillow non-slip surface whatever is going to absorb the impact of the chisel and firstly it's going to wobble this all over the place um but you're just not going to get as much bang for your buck all right so it's important that you work on a solid surface like this now i know a lot of you don't have access to a huge workbench like this by the way if you want plans are available for my website but if you don't have access to something like this you can simply you can get the same effect by simply working over the leg of your workbench so work bench top let's say hang on a sec leg underneath like that what bit's going to give you more power transfer here where it's all wobbly or i won't do it while i'm holding it or is it going to be here where you've got that support underneath all right so working above a leg on your workbench you will get so much bang for your buck it's really useful when mortising in particular if you've got a flimsy workbench that's bouncing all over the place mortising is going to be a nightmare so simply work over the leg uh got a question from kt here perfect timing he says uh hey rob tell matt to make a couple mistakes so he can show us how he deals with them i most certainly will so one of the mistakes i'll show you is what how to get around so i'm talking my mouth open talking with my mouth open rob how do you do that you're disgusting um one of the things i'll show you is how to fix your mistake if you accidentally cut away from the line when cutting the pins because that's pretty much the most common one um and also like if you accidentally cut out a square i'll show you how to chisel back to it and all that as well that's the most common one i see in future demonstrations i'll obviously show you lots of mistakes as well there's really common ones with lats dovetails um there's all sorts that can go wrong i've got a few questions here saying uh well one from tim stratton saying what the heck is a belvita and then john says is it a bread this is something that tim scott bought us who's in the comments right now um it's a beautiful breakfast snack that me and rob eat throughout the day and eat far too many of and um it's like a i don't know what it is it's just blooming lovely isn't it speaking of which how can how can people send more to uh us so if you try to get it in the chat if you'd like to fuel this channel you can visit our amazon wishlist where you can buy us a pack of belvita to consume on these live streams or in videos or wherever really but yeah you can go to the wishlist purchase an item of belvita for us it gets delivered to our door great way of supporting the channel if not the best tim could you be could you be really kind and help me find the link because matt hasn't updated it in his uh in his channel descriptions shut up all right i'm done i'm so happy all right anyway i wonder if they can hear me eating on my microphone they most certainly can it's disgusting okay i'm done right we'll do the other side exactly the same remove half the material and then chisel into the baseline oh yeah rob's just got a bell beater as well no i don't you do no not me okay so two millimeters away take it down to one millimeter away from the shoulder line and then chisel in the shoulder line it's really important you remove all this material before taking that final chop if you go straight into it especially with a thinner chisel all that material on the opposite side is going to push the chisel back below the baseline and that's what gives you those really unsightly choppy gaps in here whereas if you remove as much material as possible you've got barely anything pushing on that chisel bevel and it just travels down perfectly straight all right cool i'm gonna go up in the vice now and so here you go there we go smash him right so here essentially i'm just removing all that all those chips to start with that are loose in there let's just push them all out the other side and i like getting it upright like this because i can see all the gunk that's in the corners that i need to remove any small chips in here can and will prevent the dovetail from going together so you need to make sure they um they're removed and putting it up right like this just makes it far easier to see when you do it always work to halfway don't push out the other side because you might end up breaking up the end grain here how's your bell peter rob it's bloody brilliant is it well that's good to hear around matt is your book on the amazon store what tim says can't find the link but found out that matt's book is in the amazon store oh i forgot i did that you did that i didn't know you did that i didn't know i did that i thought it was unsuccessful how much is it i'm gonna have to ask the people on there i might buy it right so i think that's all out the other thing i like to do is i grab one of my marking knives and i kind of just slice all the stuff out the corners very lightly you don't be doing this with too much pressure because you might break the blade it just helps sever any of those remaining fibers again you want to make sure they are all out of there lovely right and that is the tails done sorry wait i haven't swapped cameras yet that is the tails done all right uh here we go right here it just look i look less dead if i stand this side of the bench so that's somewhat the easiest part i suppose because you know there's two lines on here you need to hit you need to hit that square one on the top and you need to hit that angled one on the front but the only one you really need to hit is that square one on top right the angles here don't really matter because in this next step we're going to be tracing around those to match onto here it doesn't matter if one of these was off at 45 degrees if one of them was straight up doesn't matter we'll trace around it on the pins however this is the more difficult one because we need to obviously match the angle that we scratched around it and we need to get these perfectly straight as well for the same reason as before if these do not descend vertically then when that goes in it's just going to break it apart so yeah we want to make sure we get those pretty damn straight um if there's any questions feel free to fire them now i'm just going to quickly have a tidy up of my workbench and then we'll get stuck in uh with the pins so any questions on the process so far or any of the other things fire in the comments now anthony says do you have an address but i can send you guys a little gift from mistakes oh very kind um it used to have a po box but no one used it what i would suggest you do is send it to reichettewood furniture center which is the school i teach at i don't want to disclose the location of the workshop because it's more secret than area 51 but is it 51 or 52. 51. um but you can send it to riketwood furniture center rocketwood furniture center activate learning ox pens road oxford 0x1 1sa and put it for the attention of matt esteli that's the easiest way of sending me stuff also it's great because they handle my mail for me it's a school so yeah it's brilliant right well i don't know why i'm putting that back i need that that's now in the description of the uh youtube video great thank you for that and area 52 even more secret uh arthur says why doesn't the super chat donation work for me i'm in the states don't know that should be should be fine for everyone um does the ram shooting board reduce breakout says kirk the whole function of a shooting board is to reduce breakout on that back edge so i wouldn't say this one does it any better um the main thing it does is just shears that end grain it doesn't do anything different to the back of it the the only thing with this is i have given it a adjustable uh sliding backstop on it so if the back does deteriorate and you start getting breakout you can simply chop it off re-square it slide it up and then you've got a fresh fence on there to work with so maybe that's an added benefit a lot of traditional shooting balls already have that included it's just something that i stole uh and included in it but yeah it will produce breakout if you keep sorry it will reduce breakout if you keep that back fence uh well maintained i haven't had to change it yet though awesome arthur he just gave us 10 us dollars legend your super chat works uh ross says actually no just before i get into what ross says i do have to point out we're currently at 740 viewers what and have been for quite some time it's amazing i'm terrified now i thought it might be i'm glad you didn't stay up early let me know and yeah if you want to help out my channel just make sure to like it and donate if you can to streamlabs or or through the youtube super chat and uh it helps us keep doing what we're doing right now that's it that's it okay so russ's question was would you recommend using dovetail guides when you're learning or learn without then graduate to guides to make it life easy that's a really hard one because me i learned to cut dovetails without and then i i guess graduated to using uh dovetail guys or progressed to using them in instances where i can't be bothered to think about what i'm doing an example of that was when i was cutting the drawers for the power tool workbench there were so many dovetails to cut i just wanted to get it done and the dovetail guide is perfect for that as for learning there is no shame in using a dovetail guide whatsoever no shame don't feel by using this that you're cheating caught it yeah don't feel that you're cheating by using this anyone that tells you that it's a load of rubbish all right if this gives you better results end of that's all you should be focusing on um and this is a great way of doing it it's got the angled cuts on there for your tails it's got the um the front to back angles for the pins and it's even got a square shoulder on it as well which is really useful for when cutting uh these edges square if you want to cut directly to the shoulder line that is it's up to you but it's definitely not essential for beginners i guess it's my short answer but it's really useful there's no shame in using it up to you if you want to buy it or not it does work a lot better with japanese sauce though a dazuki or any of the other ones on jonathan cat's moses store uh will work very well with this it does work with western push saws but the act i find that the act of pushing the saw it just makes it easier to throw away from the dovetail guide in my experience i know a lot of people who do use them with this and get really good results but i just think the japanese saw is easier for beginners anyway let alone using one of these why not pair them together hope that answers your question woodwork learner says are you doing a new video on sharpening systems like on the bench behind you oh yeah oh yeah so i filmed a video in january on how to sharpen a chisel to a razor sharp edge it's actually my second most viewed video on how to sharpen a chisel or the one that i released two and a half years ago it's my second most viewed chat video so i've redone it it looks spectacular there's a lot of talking at the start going through the theory but if you sit through all that and you take it all in you take notes you will get insanely sharp chisels afterwards in fact i will release that in the next week or so i did an early release for patreon so you guys have probably already seen it but to the general public you will see that video very shortly as well as many other ones such as how to sharpen plane blades how to set up planes and how to reduce tear out and all those other things those will be released gradually over the next few weeks as well as the cabinet projects which i'm hoping to start filming again tomorrow we'll see though we'll see let's do one more question and then i will carry on with cutting the pins um if you can find any or i'll just get stuck in with it i can because i will have a drink otherwise you go have a drink while i find a good one so i'm not doing very well at this i got too distracted by getting a bell beater um quick one from simon do you have tomorrow's lottery numbers please yeah no i can't say that you know what number i was going to say let's press that like button uh and i forgot you did that uh george says can you recommend cheaper accurate winding sticks uh cheap but accurate winding sticks oh blooming l cheap but accurate a ruler to be honest like a ruler will get you by just a 300 millimeter one you'll be absolutely fine with that is it as accurate as proper winding sticks probably not but you can get by with it you can get by with it the ones that i use uh are the veritas winding sticks aluminium so you know you can make winding sticks out of wood but they might eventually move if you can't be bothered with that me then aluminium winding sticks from veritas are really useful they've got one black side on them one silver side so you can easily see if the board's in twist and they lock together very nicely and they sound awesome when you take them apart very important stuff lovely i've got another couple quick questions if that's okay go for it eva says at what point of learning would you switch from using a pull to a push saw you don't like if you learn with a pull uh push saw you'll probably end up sticking with a push tool if you learn with a pulsar you'll probably end up sticking with that it's all with what you're comfortable with my advice would be to try and get yourself into a tool store if you can and just try out both if you haven't picked up a saw before i can guarantee that you will find the pool store far easier to get started definitely yeah yes can speak for that in the in the student series he did um some of my students have have actually progressed from using a pool saw thank you have progressed from using a pool saw into using a push saw reason being they just they didn't like the flexibility of the blade they liked something a little bit more rigid that was their own personal preference they ended up going for the veritas dovetail saw again that's listed on the kit dot co forward slash matt esley website um but as an absolute beginner my advice would be to go for a japanese saw that's usually my universal recommendation obviously it depends on the individual but try it out it's my best suggestion go into a tool store and ask to try their sauce cool and i've seen a a couple of comments from both epoxy and tim about the hundred pound challenge hundred pound to ha the tools that i said but i'd get i'd buy times for a hundred pounds and get you to do stuff we're thinking about linking that into the live streams that's the plan you're thinking about that yeah well sorry yeah i'm gonna go out and force you to be told midway through a livestream demonstration okay that sounds fun i was sure i told you this oh wait yeah we did actually there we go yeah yeah about dropping it in yeah so i mean whatever you got from that um the gist was if you donate a certain amount of money or we hit a certain threshold i will rob will then give me a rubbish tool to try and do a demonstration on right somewhat what i said but yeah completely changed it but never mind never mind we'll go with that right at the risk of boring people through too much talking let's get into doing the pins we'll go to this camera um let's see let's get me a clamp fix as well all right now how wide are we on here okay yeah just a little bit of vessel right how's that work for you perfect perfect yeah that's great so this is the part where you've got to pay attention to your face size and your face edges and your numbering system all right this is where you know we could easily do that one and one are still together but our face edges are on the inside or we could do this we've got one face edge there one face edge on the bottom and on the inside just lay them out visually like that one one face side face edge cool get them together and just i i pretty much keep them together like that until they're in the vise and then i can't get it wrong you see i've got a little platform here to support them from behind you can obviously get it flush with the uh you can get it oh hello that's a handle just falling off you can get it flush with the top of the workbench if you want but it's a little bit easier to get your knife in there if it's poking up a bit so a supporting block from behind is ideal so i'm just fixing my vice now a trouble some people have here is the location front to back with the uh with the tails it slides all over the place uh and it's an absolute nightmare if you're knifing around it and it slips because getting it back into position is incredibly difficult and will most likely end up inaccurate so you want to make sure that is locked no movement on it whatsoever and there are cool methods of doing this you can use like bench dogs and hold fast to hold it in place while your knife around it that's awesome if you've got a bench that can do that definitely do it you could try get a clamp on it i don't know all sorts of ways what i like to do personally is now these tails in shot at the moment yes they are that'd be fun uh in fact could you just angle this um camera down to hit these tails let's get square real quick now this is a little trick for you what i like to do is on the back of the tails really important you do this on the back and not the front let's just double check that lines up yes it does yeah yeah let's just do it freehand so we're going to make this just ever so slightly deeper on the back of the tails not too deep didn't need to be too much ideally i would do this with the marking gauge if i'd planned ahead but i kind of forgot so back of the tails really deep line then what you do is you get your widest chisel ideally do it in one hit but you can do it in a couple and you're coming from the tail side little wiggle and remove a little v-groove like that try and make it equal on all of them it's not too necessary if it isn't but it's better if it is all right and so that has given us just make sure there's no fluff in there what that's giving us is a vertical wall here uh right on the shoulder line and then a slope going into it the advantage to this is if we go back to the um main shot if that's right sorry not the main shot this one here so yeah i'll be lining up with that obviously i'm gonna zoom in for a bit yeah that'd be fine okay so i've positioned these pins to be about a millimeter above this supporting block from behind and look what that v-groove does you hear it locking into place it's like ever so slight if you push too hard it skids over it but there is just a momentary lock in there which is incredibly useful in fact if i just raise it up a little bit more it'll be even better look at that so now that is locked spot on that shoulder line you can see where that corner meets up there it's absolutely brilliant you can take that step further by with your face edge get a chisel on it and then line it up with that so now your face edge is flush and then you simply slide it forward and you lock it in like come on nope there we go you lock it in like that now we've got two points of location we've got the side to side movement sorted and we've got the front to back sorted well in fact we've also got the down uh motion sorted as well because it's pushing into that so three points of reference we've now got so if this were to inadvertently slip when i was knifing around it we can be pretty damn certain that we can get it back into the same position it was on chisel on there slide it up until it locks into the v-groove push it down you're in exactly the same position obviously we don't want it to move still though so when you do this really light pressure with a knife like literally no pressure whatsoever and just drag it back in a few successive successive passes and this is why i like the swan morton sm-01 blades because they are incredible for getting into tiny gaps like this if you have a thick japanese marking knife you can struggle to do this sometimes whereas a thin blade like that it's spot on for it and a few other people endorse them as well simon says nice knife matt where did you get that from uh okay simon says okay so i have to answer that one um simon this is one of my own custom marking knives this is actually a b stock one because i uh sanded through it here is that one shot yeah so um yeah rosewood handle brass ferrule on it obviously a removable blade you can get different shapes as well if you want but i made this entire thing in my workshop i think yeah this one even the metal parts i made on the engineering lathe i sell these in batches throughout the year and i've got another batch planned for august and you can sign up to notifications for uh those batches on the website knifeupdates.matestly.com if you go there it's a mailing list i don't spam or anything like that don't worry you can put in your details first name surname email address and you will get notifications when the next batch of these is available without this little defect and you can also put in a preference for what material you want there's all sorts like bog oak padouk ebony cocobolo um like curly maple there's so many different combinations of wood you can choose and different combinations of metal as well uh prices range from about 45 to 70 quid 70 quid being like snake would handle with uh bronze feral like the two most expensive ones um but yeah there's lots of different combinations the cheapest ones also look pretty nice as well like cheap ones are things like curly ash and brass looks really nice there's something to suit every budget and every taste but yeah knifeupdates.matesley.com is where you can get those notifications right this is going to be very difficult to see very difficult why did i choose this timber good question i don't know i want for myself at this point i can barely see him oh blooming hell right can you see him see what yeah exactly wait wait what yeah there's knife on top yeah oh my god there is no chance anyone's gonna see that no all right well uh you can be certain that there is knife line scratched in the top of this all right um i will mark the waist to try and make them as visible as possible let me see if i can get real close i'm going to be standing there in a minute well i'm going to get really close all right i'm doing this so i can see what i'm doing as well i should have just done it with walnut just keeping it zoomed in for the moment so people look on the screen and you can and let's just do over this right so we've got a nine squared along the top which matches the exact angle of the dovetails and now we need to square that down the front um ideally if you're a beginner do this with a knife because that way it's far easier to see um if you get it slightly off angle when you're cutting this plum it's easier to correct it with a chisel if you have a knife line to get into when you get accurate at cutting down vertically you can just do it with a pencil line in fact you don't even need to do a line at all in some cases for me i like doing it with a pencil because i'm quite happy cutting down square but on one of these i will intentionally screw it up so you can see how i fix it i've got a feeling that's not going to be very easy with this rosewood that we're using what to screw it up uh bragging about it no no to fix the screw-up no it's very easy to screw up i got feeling my first screw up was using this material oh right let's go here so to get this accurate there the line on the top get your knife into it and then slide this up to the knife again light pressure and gradually increase it if you go for full pressure on this it's just going to end up tracking the grain and you're going to get an inaccurate line and inaccurate lines do no one any favors oh this is so rock solid this wood blimey now same as before uh as on the tails i don't if i'm penciling on these lines i don't often do them on the back because you know if i'm hitting the line down the front then i can be pretty certain that it's here on the back but if you're knifing them like you know if you're a beginner or if you just want to do it anyway i would recommend doing it on the back as well because if you just have that knife line on the front and you chisel all the way through you're going to get breakout on the back edge you need to work from the back and the front into the middle in order to get a nice finish from the chisel and so in order to do that you need knife lines on the back is that the one i knifed yeah so i'll just do it on this one just want to remind everyone all 744 of you that's uh but it would be fantastic if you could like the video it's 269 likes there's another 500 to gain in there i can see it that's it we believe in you oh i'm not looking forward to doing this right okay now i am going to keep where's that carrot right let's keep that there because i want to see if i can get a shot of how to saw this you could do i suppose yeah go on let's go let's go handheld for it yeah let's do this so i want to show you guys the sort of technique up close with um oh you gotta hold that there you go right yeah yeah yeah all right good good stabilizer bro wait wait give me a moment give me a moment there you go three two there we go right yeah i want to show you the technique uh up close of how to saw exactly to that line with no fathom with a chisel or anything afterwards so uh let's see this one on the right my broom this one on the right we're going to intentionally screw up so we're going to miss those lines there is one on the top here somewhere oh blimey right so i can just about see the line it's on your side at the moment and i've angled the saw up i'm just nibbling away the back corner and my finger is on the other side sort of just pushing into it like that don't worry about cutting your finger or anything the curve of your fingers and thumbs will make you avoid the curve of the saw just taking away the back okay i've hit it that's good right so just to draw what i've done here i'll do on this bit of wood here so we've got um let's see we've got a knife line that i've scratched into the end grain here this is the area i am removing in fact it was that way around just so we match what we've got here and what i've done is obviously a saw cut doesn't leave a knife cut it turns wood into sawdust so my saw cut has turned this into sawdust so that saw cut has stopped right up against that line if you cut on the line this area here becomes a gap because you've cut over the line that you've traced around this is the part we're removing we want to remove all of that up to the line and no further beyond it on the screw-up that i do what i will do is see how we're removing i'm going to turn this to dust and leave a little bit here that needs to be chiseled afterwards because that's an area that's quite easy to mess up and i want to show you guys how to fix it but for now this is what we're aiming for waist side saw cut right up to the line no further no less i suppose and so by simply taking out the back corner like i've done here it's really useful to see the positioning of the saw without committing to the entire line uh if you do try and hit the whole line at once the saw kind of scoots it can scoot all over the place whereas if you do it on the back corner literally on the first pass or the first few nibbles it's now locked in place so i can track that line from back to front while steering it rather than just hit the whole line at once um sorry that's all right okay all right where is that line it's there so it's still taking out the back blowing away the dust i'm slowly leveling out the saw there we go so now i've tracked that line from back to front and i'm very happy that i've turned it all to dust right up against the line now it's locked into position it's not going to go anywhere i can focus purely on cutting long strokes square down to the baseline so with this important thing is the saw plate is in line with your wrist which is in line with your elbow if it's kinked out like that that's where you start getting these weird motions if your wrist is kinked out again you're going to get weird motions there if it's all in line what's those trains is it a locomotive yeah it's like that everything should be in line which means you've got a bit of a weird position you've got to kind of look over like this um but it's just the easiest way of getting a square cut if you're off at the side or anything you don't know if that's cut and square long strokes as well a lot of people will try and cut like this you've paid for all of those teeth why are you only using that amount use them all because what happens with this is they use that amount of teeth and they think oh it's not cutting so i push harder it gets stuck and then buff shoots forward and you end up tracking like you lose the line and everything like that just focus on those long strokes use all the teeth that you purchased and hold the saw with very light pressure that's why they're making this shape so you can literally hold it like that very loose grip you'll get a lovely straight line off the saw now we'll do the same this side so line tracked from back to front now focus on those long locomotive strokes because that's a verb a bit further all right smashing now um one of these tails i used the cat's moses guide for but i can't remember which one i think it was this left hand side uh yes it would have been that one so the cat's moses guide let's do it so this is actually ended up being the one that i'm going to intentionally scrub so it's not going to be the best example of this guys but let's do it anyway we'll raise this up and then on here so we need to match this with the correct angle so if we spin it this way it's obviously cutting towards me spin it that way it's now cutting towards you so that's the nice thing about this guide it will let you do everything you need to do in dovetails for you oh i don't think that was the one actually all right i'm not gonna risk it on here just because i don't trust which one i actually cut with the guide but in theory if you use the one in six on here it will match up perfectly with the one in six this way because there's literally a one in six dovetail on the bottom which does it all for you so yeah in theory you should be able to do that do that and then this jig will do the pins for you as well but i'm going to freehand them in this case because i can't remember which one i actually cut with the jig so let's lower it down i'm going to switch to the other camera that's fine that's fine that's fine do you need to hold it while you do so um if you could just set the other camera up that would be lovely sure thing i'll just do a little bit of work i am so good at this right that's fine if you press auto on there it's the one that's lit up auto yeah also on the machine there you go look at me a genius tech man so i'm going to focus on cutting these um quick q a i guess while i do this yeah yeah that's fine you you get yourself comfortable rob did i mess up it's just slightly out of focus oh yeah right i'm gonna cut away from the line on this huh now remember if you're using a push saw like i am always start on the push stroke if you can starting on a pull stroke is going to give you those little tooth shaped divots that will make it very difficult to start your saw [Applause] a way you can actually do the uh the pullback in fact i'm going to do this on the japanese saw but if you want to avoid those divots from appearing but you can't get out the habit of pulling back just try and do it quite quickly but be very careful in doing so doing it quickly with light pressure you won't get any of those divots and it will start quite easily after that but it's when you do it slowly and you get that vibrating that's where that's where problems arise let's do this on the japanese saw we'll do it freehand so you see thumbnail you know either so starting on the back again you see i'm using my thumbnail to keep it in position and now it's locked into the back i can just focus on steering it along that line back to front line established on the top and now cut square go on let's push those likes over 400 only 35 more likes and will be over 400. there's so many of you here let's do it i think you need to show people where that like button is again rob oh i was already on it right so cutting out the waste now um obviously i've marked the parts we are removing because again i've done it countless times where you cut out the wrong blurring bit is so frustrating when it happens um quick one on fret saws just while we're here um that's what i can do i can't do the zoom i'm good at that stuff so i'll get a few questions about the new concepts fretsaw every now and then new concepts is the brand that makes this saw the reason it's this shape is to provide lots of tension on this blade a main reason for blade breakage is other than forcing it around curves and stuff that it shouldn't be is the de-tensioning of the blade if it detensions then it gets all floppy and it's much more liable to break or it becomes more difficult to cut which means you force it more which means it's going to break inversely so by having a frame like this which puts a lot of tension on that blade you can literally hear it you firstly get a really nice straight cut off of it and really nice control but it prevents blades from breaking as well i've had this for god knows how many years and i reckon i've gone through about five blades with it a push if not four one of them was a demo at one of the accidents the stores uh the other few times have just been in the workshop uh when i've been forcing it to do things it shouldn't so i just make sure they're nice and snug give it a retention and there you go until you're hit what notes that rob i don't know uh b flat b flat yeah it's a b flat all right yeah so somebody can go test that i wish i had perfect pitch that'd be great a couple of questions here how long would it take you to make this one joint if you weren't teaching as you went uh it would take me about uh on on average three dovetails like this i can do it in about 15 minutes usually but we do have a future live stream planned where i'm going to try and beat rob cosman's record of two and a half minutes i think it was uh i really want to see if i can do it that quickly uh he had a few tools and stuff set up beforehand we can have all the same parameters he had and give it give it a shot but yeah usually hand cut dovetails two or three dovetails like this you can do it about 15 minutes or so um so it's out of focus yeah it was and then i moved it everything it's fine i'm going back to this you're going back i've got one other question okay um creative construction do you care i didn't think my mic was on then panic and i've got creative constructions uk who's the one who uh gave us the stream labs donation option thank you very much for that it says if i'm cutting these on a bandsaw what blade should i use um first you should get the right size blade shut up i bought the wrong size blade for my bandsaw a whole 30 inches off how about that um if you're cutting them on the bandsaw i would probably it depends so much on the thickness of the timber my gut instincts would be just go for a general purpose six or eight tpi anything coarser than that might be a little bit too coarse and anything finer than that might clog and track a bit easier six to eight tpi is like a good standard and we'll deal with thicknesses like this very easily as well as thicker stuff as well in terms of thickness uh front to back that shouldn't really matter too much again general purpose 3 8 of an inch is probably a good one to go for basically a general purpose blade will work really well you don't need anything fancy to do so i believe mark spagnolo the wood whisperer uh has got videos on using a bandsaw to cut dovetails so he might cover it in there i'm not too sure though um but yeah general purpose blade you don't need anything special got another question here from andy sparks which is uh quite a good one actually because i i found this difficult when doing the dovetails myself said what kind of lighting do you have i find shadows really cause me grief when trying to be accurate um yeah shadows are a pain so we've got four point lighting here it's far easier rob will zoom out now yeah it's quite good here at the moment um one thing i should have shown you is the tape trick that you can do for um for end grain to make it far easier to see what you're doing in fact i can do it real quick i won't do it on this exact piece but for those of you who struggle with your eyesight or you have dark environments or something like that this is a really good technique normally it's done with blue tape which has a little bit of thickness to it i think it's like a tessa veneer tape is what people commonly use i don't really know but essentially can we go back to this camera good so what you would do you know when i was knifing around this with a knife or knifing around the tails so let me just cut off all this excess okay so you put tape on the end grain like that and when it's upright in the vise [Music] like that when it's upright in the vice and you scratch around a tail is that good yeah i think so what you end up doing is you cut through the tape as well as put a mark on the end grain and do this very inaccurately you do that and then you peel up these areas that you don't need and so if you've got a tape that has a certain thickness to it like this special blue tape vic tesla does it quite a lot as well if the tape's got a bit of thickness you can actually put the saw up against it and you can feel in fact i can just about feel that there as well you can actually put the saw up against it and you see you get so much contrast on the end grain why i didn't do that for this i don't know because that would have been so much easier thank you to that commenter who reminded me to um do this or whatever oh look at that it looks brilliant that is so much better so clear ah why do i do this to myself next time yeah oh yeah i feel like that yeah oops but yeah that's for those of you with bad eyesight or bad lighting amazing technique amazing technique just get some thicker tape for it don't get me wrong that masking tape will work absolutely fine as well but blue tape's fancier right i'm going to cut these out so once again down about three quarters of the way a little twist on the blade long strokes with it to get it round to 90 degrees and using all of those teeth that i have purchased all the teeth every single one and when i'm doing this you'll notice i'm viewing it from the front of the dovetails i never really cut from the back like this because you've got a kind of angle the saw to match the sweep of the dovetails and if you cut through the front there it's going to be completely visible if you accidentally cut into the back of the pins here it gets hidden at the end anyway so it doesn't really matter now in terms of blades that i'm using for this pretzel this is hang on let me just finish this off can i just say whatever the next comment is you said to 800 people oh wow let me know hello all 800 of you so in terms of frets or blades um this is i think it's a 12 or a 13 or a 14 tpi i tend to go for the same tpi that's on my dovetail saw it's quite coarse but it cuts across the grain really really quickly and you don't really need a clean cut off this because you're going to be chiseling it anyway so yeah 14 tpi it's pretty ideal [Laughter] all right ah that's good now let's see if we can uh so is there a focus on this there is focus on that yeah which one is it the smaller one that one oh but it zooms in oh okay there we go oh look at that it's brilliant that's like macro that isn't it so you can see that i'm about two millimeters away from the line there ideally i would have got that a little bit closer but this is definitely one of those instances where you don't want to be chiseling directly to the line because if we do so that chisel is going to be pushed below the baseline sorry below the baseline like that so we need to make sure we remove as much material on top of the cut before committing to that final line just wanted to show you that close up before we uh move to chopping vertically again all right would you mind adjusting the cameroonia for us no no problem uh i'm going to replace the battery as well yep right quick camera swap and then we'll get chopping these out uh not far off now obviously we just gotta chop the baseline and then we need to sort out that one that i intentionally screwed up and any of the others that i unintentionally screwed up they look pretty good though i think where you going on the bench uh let's go right here be great in fact i will clamp this down as well just to be sensible actually would it be better from your perspective on your side what the camera sort of side on no that would be okay because then they can see if it's going down vertically i can't get quite over the top that's right just tilt the camera slightly what do you mean tilt the camera slightly all right yeah that's fine yeah yeah that's fine yeah that's good that gets the point of course yeah happy right okay right uh another tip from my chisel video how to chisel correctly this is a great technique if you can't be bothered to sharpen very often which is me all over now i need to find a chisel that fits this as accurately as possible and that seems to be a really good fit we've only got a little bit of wobble side to side that one is obviously too wide so oh hello so yeah this one here is going to be a pretty damn good fit we've got about two millimeters either side to play with now we could start chopping out all of that waste with this but that's obviously going to start degrading this edge and by the time i get to this one here that chisel is not going to be as sharp as it was here and i might want to resharpen it in between that not so much a case here but if you've got let's say four sides of these to do then yeah you can pretty much do this with a special technique by only having to by not having to sharpen this chisel at all and what you do is you get a smaller one to hack out all the waste beforehand and then you leave about half a millimeter away from the line all the way across front and back to then clean up with this afterwards so this is effectively your bulldozer and this just gets rid of everything and the nice thing about using a thin chisel is it descends the uh descends into the material very easily if you've got a wide chisel it becomes quite difficult to do so and so that's my sharpening hack for you if you can't be bothered to sharpen use a different chisel but use it in an order that's sensible sounds like it's a party outside there that really does i'm so curious but i don't want to open the door no scary times invite them in oh no um can i just say there's 436 likes on this video and there's like 800 of you watching come on let's push it to 500. yeah i'm sure 500. it's free why wouldn't you do it yeah have we got any likes from the australians got three whole australian lives three australians are very disappointing it's good all right so we're about yeah about half millimeter i'm going to take a little bit more down here yeah that is already started knackering the edge of this chisel so this technique is going to be incredibly useful because i don't have to do an awkward sharpening halfway in between halfway in between in between mortimer woodwork says how long is this live for um i would say probably another half hour from here if that you can obviously re-watch it uh if you need to though we will leave it on the channel for your perusal is that a word huh perusal perusal yeah i believe it is or i've just made a fool of myself uh sharon says what's the difference between a fret saw and a coping saw none non-woodworker watching she says great teaching by the way that's absolutely fine thank you very much what's your name sharon very kind of you thank you um coping saw has usually got a thicker blade on it um and oh am i right in saying that a fret saw has a tensioner on it as well i might be wrong with that as a general overview coping saw has a much thicker blade on it which makes it hard to go around those curves but it's more heavy juicy blade fretsaw has a much thinner blade and is far easier to sort of get round those curves so that's a brief overview for you for uh furniture making though ideally a fret saw is ideal for fine stuff like this i do use a coping saw every now and then though let's see can we get in there with that oh okay not going to quite do that right so i've got to do a quick sharpen because i've ground this one to 25 degrees and um yeah i forgot to put a secondary bevel on it so we'll do this really quick we'll do a um oh hello there you go i'll do a proper sharpening demonstration in a future live stream for you but we'll make this very quick now quick and dirty so chisel in a holding guide slide it up to a 30 degree stop oh just swapped why is this what there we go there we go you're good cool all right you can't see the sharpening now can't see what i'm sharpening oh i see because you're going to stand in the way well no it's right there it just needs to point down a bit oh i see i i immediately went to potomac oh no it's not that i've done that right um okay so we've got a waterstone i did just flatten this earlier so that's fine it's gonna drag back does it look like a nightclub here yeah it does from outside yeah so a couple of drags back because we're on a fresh primary bevel flip it around oh matt do you keep your water stones in water all the time says chris price um these ones you're not supposed to i do though um i've never really seen a problem with it whatsoever but yeah ideally follow the manufacturer's instructions for it some you have to or some you can do some you don't have to yeah it depends on that one just simply read the instructions mdr science says how often do you sharpen your chisels depends if i'm chiseling concrete or if i'm chiseling marshmallows um you know it would vary so much in hardness that rosewood that i'm chiseling at the moment absolutely ruined my chisels but if i was chiseling something like ash it would be lovely and i wouldn't have to be sharpening uh so soon all right that's good enough so quick overview i put a secondary bevel on it with a 6000 grit finished it up on this drop here this drop has some 0.5 micron paste on it i can't remember the exact grit that equates to but it's somewhere around 30 000 if not higher completely overkill but it's brilliant when it's that sharp so there's a link to that sorry not the strop on kit but there's a link to this paste on kits dot co forward slash matt estely all right just going back to the chiseling quick reposition of the cameras so this chisel the reason i sharpen this is because on the back here where the dovetails are a little bit thinner it fit that gap really nicely and then i've got a slightly wider chisel which fits the front of the dovetails really nicely so we've hacked back to the line a lot with this thinner chisel so now we can just get straight in it with this lovely sharp one locate that shoulder line oh that is gorgeous and we're cutting down vertical and locate it again tim scott says studio quality live stream gents thank you very much tim very kind of you we've got a monitor right in front of me at the moment and it is so weird having this level of professionalism going on we'll have to turn it around at the end of the livestream it looks it looks insane in here at the moment it's not right we're not this refined no not a chance nice to be good though and there's only 33 more people to get us to 500 likes wow 30 more 33 of you right into the bass lines on the front now with this i'm going to turn this around you'll be i see this right bear in mind that we're now going into a wedge-shaped cavity um and so i'm aiming to get this chisel right in the center if i go right up against the edges like that i'm going to start chiseling into the internal edges of the pins which we don't want it'll start damaging them so i'm going to go in right in the center to start with and then on the passes afterwards we will angle the chisel so in the center aaron says he's american and just the accent is more proper than i'm used to more proper yeah oh that's nice i swear i just saw a bit of the chisel chip off no this stuff is brutal look i can actually see a white edge on the back of the chisel it it's folded it around that much and this is a2 steel this is hard stuff this could be fun right so now we've got the middles chopped out i'm going to simply tilt the chisel basically what i do is i locate it in the line let's get a little bit closer shall we yeah i'll take it like this as well uh i can do it like that so i'm resting the chisel on the line that i've already cut get it where i need to and then tilt it to match the tail and i'll i'll just do it so i can sort out that line on the front all the stuff that's going on on the inside at the moment i'll sort that when it's upright i just want to get this front line established for now i love this song i swear whoever's playing has played already maybe it's a subscriber who's found our workshop i am genuinely worried about that maybe it's tim right so that's all good so we've got really nice crisp lines along the front now and we can now get it upright in the vise to clean out all that rubbish look around here so to all the viewers who are coming struggling we need a third camera man i need a third camera sorry yeah all right where are you going all right just get the device and we will be staying here until the joint is assembled i reckon so i'll just start pairing out this rubbish oh my lord yeah that was blunted already oh blooming elf this was the material i was considering making all those draw sides for on that um apothecary cabinet 50 yeah i've decided against that now sod that oh hello we just hit 500 likes we did while i was holding the camera well done guys that is brilliant there's amazing you've hit there oh call youtuber says you need a gimbal for your camera i literally do i just didn't pick that up at the time oh it's already folded that edge round i think i've already tried this one yeah oh you can just hear it it's not that nice sound that you should get when chiseling it's just it sounds dreadful yeah it's like chiseling concrete right next demo walnut do you have a slightly blunted chisel currently hey well just someone asked can you show a slightly blunted chisel up close and i wondered if you had one you oh you might be able to see it actually uh i yeah all right let's see if we can do this oh it's getting there in it yes pull it back slightly is that in focus there there you go there right so that white edge on it can you see that that is the blunt edge of the chisel so that was a complete point just now no white edge on there whatsoever but after a few hits um yeah it now looks like that so you see the secondary bevel and you've just got to kind of tilt the blade and then you see a little glimpse of it like there and that's how you know if your chisel is blunt like that looks razor sharp like that but then yeah whoop it's actually quite nice and clear on camera yeah that's good that in it yeah so 852 viewers by the way yeah so that's oh sorry i forgot to adjust that that's the sort of thing i would just carry on filming when i was doing a normal video and then have to refilm the entire thing but that's what a blunt chisel looks like so it looks beautiful from the top but then when you just catch it in the light you see that white edge and in fact now i'm feeling that i can feel a bit of metal that's been folded over to this flat side and created a burr there so yeah that chisel is that chisel's toast um oh i'm pretty much there though so it's not too bad can we push 600 likes now can we push 600 600 that button is so cheap to press i think it is you know i don't think it costs anything no i'm not confident and if it does i've lost a lot of money right so that is all the corners cleaned out so if i hadn't done my intentional mistake this should go together quick look oh lovely yep so everything looking like it's lining up apart from this one which is fine now i think i'm just gonna have to quickly sharpen my chisel again because this is disgusting oh in fact is that sharp i think it is oh yes i haven't used it on this wood yet i used it on the sycamore brilliant right never mind um so to do this how we get best going to do this might have to go hand held possibly just because i think my hand's going to be shrouding what we're seeing here at the moment ask and you shall receive so you don't do anything no that's fine buff hello oh oh hello right there yeah sort of all good yeah cool right so to sort this out we've got three lines to hit we've got the top line front line and the back line most important ones at the top and the front the back one is hidden so if it does get slightly undercut no one will know unless it falls apart in the future so what i like to do here is firstly now we're about half a millimeter away from the line and i'm telling you that because you probably can't see it neither can i so we're in the line temptation would be just to go bang and whack that down but with this wood especially it's going to split in a direction that you don't know until you hit it and sod's law says it splits in the wrong direction you end up with a disgusting gap down the front and so what i like to do is get it in that line and just give it a very small tap just separate that material effectively making that line a little bit deeper that is now no longer attached sorry there's zero focus currently going on at the moment we'll get there there we go so that is now no longer attached to the rest of the pin and is separated now i would go in from the front like this and push it to the middle and then we'll go from the back as well can't do that just yet though because if i do that now the fibers are still attached at the bottom and so trying to ask this bit of the chisel to push into an area where the fibers are still attached is going to produce some sort of tear out so if you go to the other side i'll step over so what we need to do is we'll come around a sec so on the bottom here again i'll use one of my knives and i'll just sever those fibers at the bottom and i'll make this a pretty damn deep mark to be honest so this is now separating all those fibers from the base obviously they've been separated from the top as well lovely so now what we should be able to do is put the chisel in the line that i've got on the front if i could see it where is it oh i think it's there no that is nowhere near it all right i think it's there so we're going in there and then we just push it through you see now it just chips off because it's not attached to the top it's not attached to the bottom and you just pull it into the into the edge of the pin wiggle it up and down okay so halfway twist it off smashing there we go from the other side and so you can see this is why having knife lines for beginners is really useful scratch down the front because you can do this just put it straight into those knife lines oh there we go that's off and easy as that those fibers are now separated lovely clean edge going on in there now might take a little bit of cleanup but yeah that is bang on the lines that we scratched on so let's have a look at this point i just do a quick visual check to check all those lines are descending vertically which it looks like they are there's actually now there's one on this side that i'm not too happy with and so i just angle the chisel away from it a bit and just nibble out the back like that so remember like this is a long live stream at the moment but if you do this enough personally i've got this down to about 15 minutes yeah it becomes a very quick process especially if you're not faffing around with any of this chiseling afterwards if you can do it straight off the saw you can put together a box i kid you not quicker than someone can use a dovetail jig in a router it's a very quick process if you've got five boxes to do then you're gonna struggle but one box it's far easier and you can usually charge a little bit more because they're hand cut happy days right another visual check that's good that's good that's good that's good i'm going to do a tiny bit on this one as well so what's important with these is that these back lines all the front lines for that matter are not sloping in like that they the back ones can technically slope out that would be an undercut it won't be seen but they can't slope in because that will prevent the dovetails from going in visual check all looking like they're going down vertical now i'm happy with that bass lines look flat so now what we'll do is just put a very small chamfer on the back of these tails that all in focus yeah you're right for yeah that one yeah surviving okay so i'm gonna put a small chamfer on here to stop it or to help it locate don't start this from the end grain because you'll get nice triangular shaped gap on the end grain you want to start it about three millimeters down roughly choke up on the chisel don't hold it like this we do a little chamfer like that whoever's outside it's got great chance of music right that is a great song quite even existed so okay so you guys can see in fact just getting a knife it's far easier pop it out all right now mommy the truth oh okay it's tight one side but we're gonna give it a go okay so this one that i adjusted is quite tight in fact that middle one's quite tight as well you can hear it that's descending descending that's not but we're going to keep going right this is very tight do i bottom it out now or do i go for it rob ah go for it all right come on that is crazy thank you look at that that's amazing okay i've got a question now all right so of course you you bottomed it out yeah maybe in an ideal world you wouldn't have wouldn't have done that with it um how did you get it apart well no there is that because i i i think i know how i would do that okay but it's more along the lines of does the choice of wood change whether or not you just decided to go for it then if it was a softer woods yeah i guess there's a lot more risk of damaging things great question great question so this is if any of you have watched me at axminster before any of their events or you know any events where i've done dovetailing this is my little secret i take one timber with me that's very soft like poplar or sycamore and i take another timber that uh is quite hard and doesn't split very easily and so that's actually what i did for this livestream demo as well i picked sycamore very soft and this timber which is very hard i didn't know it would be this hard but i know it's hard and so if it ends up a little bit tight i know that that sycamore is going to kind of squish in a little bit easier if this was rosewood on both sides that probably would have split there was no chance that was going in but um yeah that's why i picked these two timbers and you know i could say it was for the aesthetics of it but there is a reason for choosing these timbers as well because one's quite soft one's quite hard and it works very well same reason i used walnut and ash walnut's quite soft ash is quite hard it molds itself in there quite nicely um a little secret for you there should i just say something that i've just seen what we've hit 900 what 900 viewers blooming hell this is awesome guys we're going to be doing boo we'll be doing more of these in the future so yeah make sure you subscribe if you haven't already and um yeah fridays 6 p.m bst every single week we're not finished yet we got to flush this off but yeah just make sure you turn up every week uh yeah i'm expecting to be able to plane this now am i right what would you like camera wise um that will be fine give your arms a break just going to make sure this is properly bottomed out there we go that's good a little supporting block behind now if you've got any massive gaps in dovetails i haven't done a dedicated tutorial on it just yet but uh one of the episodes in my garden workshop series when i was making the boxes for the nhs i did a video on fixing gaps in dovetails that are up to a millimeter thick all right anything that ranges from half a millimeter to a millimeter in fact even above a millimeter i'll show you how to fix it so although this looks great i know it's so difficult to achieve as a beginner or even as someone just learning an intermediate or whatever if you do end up with small gaps there are ways to fix them and so that video how to fix massive gaps in dovetails garden workshop episode 8 or something like that i don't really know that'll be the one to watch right uh bench plane let's get the old go on with the 900 of you let's let's get it up to 600 likes oh we hit 500 oh yeah sorry yeah we're 563 currently madness so press the like button now look at that little animation everything ignore the number it's unrelated to how many we've got currently right i'll do a quick i'll sharpen here actually on the main camera it's a little bit nicer um straight on the workbench i've just got to give this blade a quick touch up because i did just regrind this before the live stream and there's not a chance i'm putting this through that rosewood in this state uh tim's called you a cheater based on your soft and hard wood applications tricks of the trade it's not cheating here's a bit i mean at the end of the day right it obviously is cheating but sycamore and rosewood doesn't that look good together imagine that as a draw side yes there are easy timbers to dovetail together but it looks good as well tim also asks how did you get the sawdust on your back yeah wait what that would be from when i was trying to drill that bloomin oh we've had a good old day today we have did a lot of wiring for the podcast space oh livestream oh whatever space i don't know what it's called anymore editing room just yeah so again i'll do a demonstration on this in a future live stream how to uh sharpen a plain blade uh there's a special technique i use with sharpening a plain blade that makes it a lot easier to use square up hedges all those things many of you are familiar with it already if you want a spoiler go and look at the video on how to get a stupidly sharp edge on a plane blade or visit the free online woodworking school which is mattesoli.com there is tutorials on how to do it there but if you'd prefer to watch it live we'll do it in a future live stream anthony gibson asks is this on twitch too no it's not on twitch but we're using similar plugins and stuff that twitch users might do in the future no no we're not cool enough yet august the bingo boys they're back more but bingory than ever so i'm just dropping this now and then we'll get the plane assembled i'll quickly show you how to assemble a plane as well very quick again future future live stream yeah let's go to that one that'll be good [Music] i mean judging by the state of my t-shirt it's definitely been a productive day today it's been a good one this was washed this morning lies yeah joking enough of that clean right you're gonna do it on the bench yeah uh well it'll be like there because i need to do it in my hands that'll be fine there right so let me just get it apart again just sharpen that the plain blade there's your chip breaker so bevel down on the plain blade um easy way to work that out is lee nielsen is printed on the top if you've got stanley that'll be printed there record they're not going to put their logo on the bottom all right so it goes up like that logo on top chip breaker don't put it on like this and then drag it back because you're going to end up blunting the edge put it on at 90 degrees oh great song great song put it under 90 degrees drag it back spin it around slide it up everybody yeah i know i just wanted to spoil it for everyone all right so tighten it up and so i've slid this up to be about a millimeter away from the edge get a nice tighten people always ask me about this the little doorknob screwdriver thing it's listed on kit.co go have a look there um rob will get the old thingamajiggly bob up and then instead of trying to get it in like that and getting the angle just lift up your plane so the frog is then sitting flat screw goes on the bottom locates into that hole there again this is all on the free online working school if you want to learn how to do this this snaps down with a nice old snap and then what we'll do is i'll bring the blade out yeah i'm not going to bother seeing this on there so i'm bringing the blade out i'll do it no that's right you need like weird camera angles to show it and everything um but i'm bringing the blade out at the moment i can see that it's high on the right hand side sorry on the left hand side so i'm going to push the old lateral adjuster here towards the left-hand side now it looks even bringing it in bringing it in still looks even now the blades disappeared and now we take that to the wood that's why i can adjust it oh yes mortimer woodworks uh said something he says matt am i okay on promoting your channel on my own channel yeah go for it go for it today to ask that that would be brilliant and also um why planning and not sounding right sanding okay very good question um sanding is not an effective way of flushing off joints i mean well that's close enough i could probably get away with it but you know in this case we've got a super soft material sycamore and we've got a really hard material rosewood let alone rosewood end grain poking up here if you sand that by hand or with a random orbit sander in fact it's probably more so with a random orbit sander it's going to remove material from that sycamore far quicker than it is the rosewood and you're going to end up with weird bumps here if you do it by hand with a hard block yeah you could probably get away with that but a plane's just generally a lot quicker to do it um yeah i need to do a dedicated video on planing versus sanding when it comes to flushing off joints because you know people have done videos on planing versus sanding when it comes to finishing but a lot of people have this false sense of the fact that sandpaper can fix everything that's not flush it can't and it will often end up making your work inaccurate it'll round edges it'll create weird bumps a plane cannot do that it's got a flat surface to reference against you're going to end up with a perfectly flat component so with this i've just wound it all the way in so it's not going i'm now going to bring it out and that is making a disgusting sound so getting a tea light got another question here why did you put the plane directly down on this blade rather than on its side well like that oh no no it's so loud it is so loud oh my god sorry uh because it still works afterwards just gotta sort that blade out have you wrecked that surface as well yeah i chopped into it a little bit look oh oh oh shavings so let me just candle wax the bottom of this right look at that it works so that whole thing about putting your plane blade on its sole is a load of rubbish all right reason being well if you put it on its side like that that's great until you go and grab something you slice your knuckle which really hurts the end of the day you're using a plane to cut wood if you put it on its sole is that really doing it any damage yes if you put it on a square that's going to give it damage if you put it on something else metal yes that's going to damage it but it doesn't throw the blade out or anything like that it just it just goes on its sole and it stops you from cutting your hands on that blade that's exposed so i tend to put it down well in fact i don't tend to put it down i put it down whichever way it lands sometimes i put it down that way sometimes i do that way but yeah don't be caught up by it like trying to put it on its side all the time whichever way it happens to land is what i um it's what i encourage six more likes to 600 come on six it's because they liked that thing i just did i bet i loved it slowly getting there 600 likes yes just like that 600 with 912 people currently watching amazing this is brilliant remember we're going to be doing this every single friday at 6 p.m bst not dovetails though no no not not just dovetails other demonstrations yep q a's and uh challenges for matt to test his woodworking skills with the worst of the worst tools that i can find joyous almost there i've got a few bass lines that i just want to remove aaron says uh everyone notice he is running it straight while holding the plane at an angle yeah um what yeah there's a few different ways that i do this sometimes i will hit it straight but traverse the grain diagonally sometimes i angle it and traverse the grain straight or go along the grain straight i don't know there's no real method of me doing it you do get a nicer sheer cut if you angle it and push it forward but to be honest there is no technique in that uh well noticed but i just go for whatever happens to be cutting there are situations where the angle of the plane and the direction in which you push it do matter though and that's covered in one of my videos how to plane correctly right that'll do i think they're all gone and just sort out i'm not going to do this side fully because i don't want to be planing all that rosewood sorted right we're done should we get some close-ups i think we need to get some i'm very happy with that actually very happy with that oh diddly damn right you're gonna hold it i'll focus it oh my god i haven't actually seen it i just looked at it through the camera that was ridiculous yeah so there is a tiny bit of a bass line uh here you might be able to see it slightly so it's not too visible now but when a finish is on this that will pop quite considerably so that's the that's the sort of thing you want to watch out for if you're going to leave the lines on or if you're going to remove them afterwards just make sure it's consistent i've removed them here i've kept it there that's going to look a bit weird i should have kept it all the way across or got rid of them completely so it takes a little bit more planing but god diddly damn that looks stunning that's not bad is it you've done all right there yeah i didn't believe in your abilities at first yet now you've somewhat satisfied me it's nice it's nice curly wood as well isn't it it's really good i can't believe you've got such a nice word for this yeah happy days happy days look at that all right so um hey i'll move that oh yeah thank you so um we'll do a quick q a session as the timer started all right so um yeah we'll do a quick q a session if you've got any questions on that process any of the steps in it that didn't make a lot of sense that you want me to cover again we've got 15 minutes or so now that we'll do a quick q a i'll answer all the questions that you may have um yeah fire the questions ahead so just got a statement here from greg that you might just want to reiterate on this just he he just said you will never get that effect from sanding yes yeah you're absolutely right absolutely right also i'd have loads of rosewood dust in my lungs i'd have to get a mask on i'd have to get the extractor out like just plain done sorted and it's flat how would a scraper act on that hardwood um says woodwork learner uh a scraper would work quite nicely on the surface uh if we're talking like a cabinet scraper or something like that that would clean up the surface very well but it wouldn't do too well on the end grain likewise a scraper plane with the blade angle mounted at whatever it is that or even a over 90 degrees uh you probably wouldn't cut through the end grain very easily with a scraper plane so um what you really need is like a plane mounted at would it be 50 about 62 degree cutting angle 12 degree bed 50 degree blade on it in a low angle plane um that's covered in my video how to reduce tear out with a hand plane that would probably make the surface a lot nicer on the rosewood woodwork josh says when are you going to do a full tutorial on a compound dovetail i saw the garden work bench one but it was quick are you scared of them as me yeah yes i am that was disgusting do you know what looking back on it in fact no that wasn't even a proper compound dovetail that one like it kind of was but the front was straight and the side was angled in and tilted so it's kind of compound but what i say is compound is actually the front one tilted as well so effectively comes into like this i don't know like the the geometry and stuff that goes into that is it geometry trigonometry i don't know i haven't worked it out yet and worked out and it won't be anytime soon dead asks is there a specific plane you use uh i use the lee nilsson bronze number four you don't need it to be bronze it's just got a lot of heft to it and i really like it it's just a simple plane to use low angle jack play is also really nice but i tend to reach for this one a little bit more you don't need a little no there's like mid-range budgets like quenching that are really good or wood river um or clifton other ones like that just um you know don't go for the cheap cheap ones that will cost you like 20 quid a plane because they won't work like this just has you want to spend number four probably in excess of a hundred quid to get a decent one to get a basic level one raymond says how far did you push out the blade on the planer um don't know don't know basically i bring it all the way in so i to start with i got it out uh got it straight in there bought it all the way in so it wasn't cutting and then as i was planing i was bringing the blade out and i bring it out until it starts producing little shavings like that and then i know we're all dandy aaron says are you going to show how to cut inlay dovetails in lay dovetails um i don't know i'd like to but i would be doing it purely to get views on the video um there's no need for me to film it because jonathan katz moses has already done loads of them um yeah he's done all sorts of cool variations on it i don't feel i need to do a uh an inlay dovetail tutorial it's not really my style either but yeah nicholas says what dovetail ratio did you use uh one in six one and six i forgot to cover that actually um so um doesn't really matter which dovetail ratio you go for you've just got to bear in mind that when you go for those steeper ratios the end grain is going to be a little bit more fragile i would keep it in the range of a one in eight which is quite straight to a one in four an absolute push um anything more obtuse than that or acute i suppose uh you've got really fragile end grain anything steeper than a one in eight you've basically got a box joint by that point so there's a video on uh what's it called what dovetail ratio should you use it's a very old one again but it explains that whole process in about three minutes and it's well worth watching ajfx says what japanese sword did you use this is the um gaia kochu 372 i think uh i don't know if it's off my head uh it uh hang on it's here the no i've it's a 240 millimeter blade a guy i caught you it's a guy i caught you one um it's really nice i think it's the 372. um it's lovely it's lovely francisco says question aren't you changing the dimension of the materials too much by going to town on it like that with the plane it looks like i was because there was a lot of passes but actually i was taking off like nothing nothing whatsoever yes it will slightly alter the dimensions that's a really crucial thing to bear in mind when you're draw fitting which is something we'll be doing in a later video for the cabinet project that was due to restart again soon but you're absolutely right it will adjust the thickness of the material you've just got to make sure that you don't do it too much essentially you've got a plan for it kyle unleashed who just subscribed i saw that come up on the chat says i need to make a rolling table for my table saw would dovetails be the best giant for this a rolling table for my table saw assuming means a sled right or something like that i don't know what you mean by that if you mean a sled that's probably a bit of an over-engineered design um rolling table i don't know on that unfortunately i don't know maybe people in the comments will be able to help out with it eva asks what would you do if planing the light would now was against the grain turning around to avoid tear-outs it would have risked her out in the rosewood yeah yeah absolutely right so um right so eva's point here was um yeah if you're playing in like that there's a risk you get tear out on the sycamore uh because it'll be going against the grain whereas that would mean that you want to play in this way but then you might get breakout on the end grain of the rosewood difficult situation it sucks when it happens basically the best thing you can do at this point uh i tend to traverse the dovetails this way being very careful not to break out end grain here or alternatively what was the method i was about to say that was it so what you can do is you can put a chamfer on the corner of the dovetail um and then that what happens with then what happens with then what happens then is when you plane off the end grain the chamfer supports uh any breakout from happening essentially so a small chamfer there plane it down don't go beyond the chamfer and it shouldn't break out as long as you're taking a really fine cut if you're taking off you know two millimeters with your plane you're going to end up getting break out on that end grain but with a small chamfer light pass you'll be absolutely fine alternatively hard sanding block i didn't want to say it but you can and of all bees says would toxicity sites say many common woods cause health issues if you don't wear a mask is that only for power tools and sanding um no no you can get some words um i can't think of any off the top of my head but you can get dermatitis from like sawdust and stuff in fact rose was one of them um just purely handling it or getting sawdust you know just from what i was doing there airborne stuff whatever that can cause skin irritation um yeah there's a lot of woods actually which can cause dermatitis if you've got irritant skin then yeah you've got to be careful with this kind of stuff native timbers are generally okay with the exception of you which is disgustingly poisonous don't make chopping boards from it um but yeah you've got to be careful dermatitis is quite a common one don't make chopping boards out of sobrano either yes because it smells of pets at home the shop mortimer woodwork says matt with axminster when do you think they'll do the next live event with everything going on with covered oh good question um i have no idea on that unfortunately i was meant to be doing a um like a class at their skill center in august but i don't think that's gonna be happening anymore not sure on that unfortunately um but if they do i'd love to be invited woodwork josh says do you camber all your irons uh yes with the exception of my shooting plane there's no point in cambering that because you know it's just for squaring up edges now that brings up the question can you shoot material square with a cambered blade yes you can that camber should be so subtle that it doesn't necessarily throw the end grain out when you're shooting it um i just don't do it on my shooting board because there is literally no need why put a camber on it when there's going to be no benefit to doing so so yeah all planes even block lane has a camber on apart from the shooting plane here's a suggestion from i cursed stooges i think he's missed out some vows in there uh you contemplated which tool just one you take to a deserted island now you should do a live stream with your tool of choice and make an object using only this tool that sounds disgusting yeah meanwhile as i'm reading it the dancing skeleton pops up on the screen big time brilliant and and just one more thing on that question before where i answered about uh blades being square the other one that just came to mind uh shoot uh shoulder planes i don't camber them either they're perfectly square sorry carry on no so i was just going to apologize for people who've put in the donations they come up on the stream but it's really tiny writing oh that's popping up so i'll sort that for next time uh okay uh omar asks total beginner question what does one-sixth mean uh one in six is okay so one in six is an easy way of marking out dovetail ratios so effectively one in six how we're gonna do this one in six is one unit across six units up so that could be one centimeter six centimeters one mile six miles when you mark that out uh it will give you exactly the same angle so you know with this if i marked a mark there one centimeter across six centimeters up join those together that's my dovetail ratio really simple way of doing it lovely uh tim scott 2000 says matt i use the journeyman mallet as i prefer the feel do you recommend this or a wood mallet for a new starter i do quite like the journeyman's mallet um which is a veritas one for those of you that don't know it's got the round head on if is it the round head journeyman's mallet or is that good yeah i think journeyman's calves man i think it's got a round head on it uh if it is that one i do like it it packs a good punch but um let me just double check veritas journeyman's mallet it's that one yeah i just saw it so it's got a round head on it i do like it um the only thing that i'm not too sure of is the fact that you're hitting a chisel with a rounded surface i have occasionally miss hit which isn't much of a problem obviously you hold the hammer up here anyway um but yeah like i don't know i like one like this because it's got a slightly uh con cave surface on it and so you must less likely to get that sort of deflection going on because it dips in but it is very good for beginners i prefer it to a wooden mallet um like a large carpenter's mallet i suppose because i just think you get more control but then a carpenter's mallet is going to be better for your mortising and stuff where you need that you need that whack right so we've got less than three minutes left of the old q a and the live stream so i'm just going to pick up a few that i can see very quickly and i apologize if i don't get to yours please join us for another live stream and join the q a then uh picarco says what do your girlfriends think about you doing live streams on a friday evening yeah i don't know mine's long distance relationship anyway it's fine yeah becky if you want to answer that one just send a message and i'll just read it out there we go what kind of finish oil would you use in that joint says multiple woodworks hard to say osmo just go for everything if in doubt if in doubt osmo or just um a nice oil like tung oil would bring out the curliness in this sycamore and penetrate that rosewood very nicely uh woodworker learner says will you sharpen your new saw or will you get it done for you have you ever had one of your sort of sharpened uh no no uh the skeleton saw i will almost certainly send back to shane to get it sharpened i have tried to sharpen the saw once didn't turn out brilliant so um yeah when my veritas dovetail saw got blunt i bought the bad axe one and when my cross cuts all got blunt i bought this uh shane skelton one so i'll probably send them off to be honest but i should learn i should learn uh tim says matt is your first aid kit in order never know when you'll need it bob thinking of you bud yeah yeah let's move on from that sellotape yeah you often use sellotape to fix your cuts it's very disturbing it works uh woodwork learner says when are you going to pay rob moore that question no sorry just just having a quick scroll here in the last last minute or so there's so many questions yeah i mean guys thank you so much for the engagement in this live stream like the amount of you watching the amount of comments flooding through uh it's awesome it's awesome so thank you for being here thank you uh simon says how would you cut the tails in the ash with a houndstooth dovetail at the end of your bench if you didn't have a bandsaw um a tenon saw to be honest um yeah a dovetail saw wouldn't have the depth on it so you need you need something big to do it like that that should do so lovely uh take what just asks osb dovetails osb dovetails challenge accepted i reckon we should dye some osb so we've got a couple of contrasting colors and we'll do another live stream like this where you have to deal with osb dovetails yeah i kind of be cool yeah let's do it sorry i'm just i'm just there's just so many readings read quicker i'm trying my absolute hardest and okay i'll find one more because the timer has just just stopped itself all right okay one question hell sanders says how do you achieve the asymmetric elongated dovetails what so one they're not symmetrical and two they're long dovetails i guess because like on this one you use like a you just shuffled along with markings and stuff um what if you're to make it completely to be honest i would draw it with any weird dovetails you know let's just use give this as a general answer houndstooth dovetails with dovetails that have odd spacing on or different pitches throughout in all those cases i would draw a rigid orthographic drawing of them basically that means drawing at full size and then on a piece of paper or a bit of mdf and then you can see exactly what the layout's going to be and you can transfer the marking straight from the paper to the tails themselves um anything complicated like that just draw it out full size to check it's possible first sorted nice all right we we're we're pretty much done there smashing yeah well thank you very much once again everyone for tuning into this live stream once again we do these every single week at friday 6 p.m bst obviously because it's britain where that's liable to shift throughout the year sometimes it's going to be gmt sometimes it's going to be bst in this case it's bst but yeah 6 pm bsc every single friday we'll be doing demonstrations we'll be doing q and a's we'll be doing random things in the workshop that we think are funny and we think you'll find funny too and yeah there'll be all sorts going on can i also just say that we have managed to beat our record every single live stream for the amount of people on it before the whole covered situation hit we were probably getting about 200 if we were lucky and we've been increasing that by two or three hundred every single time it's been absolutely brilliant so thank you everyone for that and uh this is brilliant and and i do want to just move the camera around so they can see what's going on it is a bit mental what we've got going on here at the moment uh i don't think he's swapped no i haven't swapped this one sort of give a reveal yeah well actually it's like a television studio at the moment it's so cool but yeah like um if you've got any suggestions on future live streams stuff that you'd like to see you know dovetail is always a crowd pleaser but sharpening tool setup anything like that even when it comes to like using machines i'm happy to do tutorials on anything that you might have questions on uh just let us know in the comments and we'll certainly go back and have a look at them in the future uh here's a grand reveal of what it looks like it kind of looks less grand now but there we are oh it's not brilliant no it's not it's not the main difference is that monitor there like you can see everything going on top right one i can see myself on it's really off or in fact the top left you can see me on at the moment as well yeah um pictured yeah it's pretty damn impressive so i'm thinking next time what we'll do try and get an overhead view just fixed there oh yeah definitely over the workbench yeah definitely yeah awesome cool right get behind there and do an outro fine fine well i've just done it has been the third outro thank you very much for watching if you enjoyed the video please do not forget to press the like button subscribe if you haven't already and make sure to tune in every single week for these live streams at 6 p.m bst every single friday we'll see in the next one have a good weekend [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] good [Music] hey [Music] right [Music] you

Channel: Matt Estlea

Views: 21,852

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Id: FBtwUJ1cVwE

Length: 167min 51sec (10071 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 10 2020