Live (Almost) Wood Bowl Turning – Turn A Wood Bowl - Woodturning Video

hello and welcome I'm Kent and this is almost a live turning of a wood bull yeah I know alright so here's what happened let me explain the whole story briefly I sent an email out yesterday afternoon telling everybody I'm gonna do a live turning on YouTube and I thought maybe after that I should check and you'l make sure how this is all set up on YouTube I've done live turnings on Facebook no problem and as it turns out YouTube has tightened their parameters for who can broadcast live apparently with everything going on in the world right now everyone wants to produce or put on live videos and it must be causing a problems on their system so I need to have more subscribers in order to do a live feed which is a little bit disappointing but now not to disappoint you I've decided I'm gonna do the next best things who a live turning I'm going to actually turn this entire Bowl this piece of wood into a bowl with zero cuts all in real time no fast-forward nothing and I'm gonna walk you through the entire process okay and if it turns out well I'm going to make this bowl available for one of you guys to win if you'd like but first off I need more subscribers so if you're somehow here watching this and you've seen some of my other videos or maybe you haven't seen those yet but you're here and you're checking this out and you're not a subscriber you need to hit that little button right now subscribe so take care of that and I'm gonna get started so what I've got here is a piece of honey locust I'm gonna bring the camera in I'll be doing this frequently so kind of just bear with me it's goes them this is all part of not having cuts so I'm gonna bring this in so you can see a little better this is honey locust and it's about three and a half years old and I know I've got some checking going on here on the ends I can see I can see some checking going on here and I've got a worm hole board through the bark which that's unusual so I'm guessing there's going to be a hole there and the pith the pith is correct right here so I'm gonna I want to cut that out so I don't have to turn that on the lathe so what I'm gonna do is I can also see that there's a couple the ins aren't square so I'm going to square those up which will reduce the height of this and I should be able to get that shortened so before I do that always always dust protection protects against coronavirus but it's more important it can conduct or protect against dust as well maybe it's not as immediate as the coronavirus but it's just as dangerous and over time it'll it will do lots of harm so protect those lungs [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay lots of the wood looks like it's in good shape for being as old as it is it's been sealed the ends were sealed and it's been sitting out it's got some pretty pattern and it does have some worms and wormholes I'm looking at this when I cut the in grain you can see that up in the South would here you got some little if you can see that you see the lighter areas that's been packed in by the worm holes so I think we're gonna have a nice looking piece here all right I'm gonna move over to the lathe now let's get this and I'm gonna use uh actually you know what back up let's come back over here I'm going to cut this into a blank first let me get these pieces of the way and the way I do that is I usually circle templates so I'm looking at about a 10 inch diameter here I want to Center this above the pit as close as possible just so that the bottom of its centered and aligned so I'm looking at where that's gonna be and thinking that's looking good there so I just basically pin that in place so it stays there and I use the cardboard as a rough guide for turning this circle [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] okay all right now we're ready to move over to the lathe okay so to attach this to the lathe it is a larger piece it's a little bit heavier word I'm going to use a face plate sometimes I'll use it I'll go in to end and when I use a face plate I want to make sure that I'm good and centered West beautiful grain going on there I'm not going to use the tail stock right now so we'll get this out of the way and I'm gonna measure that and the way I measure it is just with a simple tape measure but I try to take a couple different measurements so that I'm right on I've got a rough idea where that center line is so first measurement I just go across the piece it's saying about ten and a half so I'm gonna mark that at five and a quarter check against that at ninety degrees it's saying about ten and three quarters so about five and three-eighths come across this about forty-five degree angle that's ten and a half again five and a quarter and then against that perpendicular ten and three quarters is gonna be five and three eighths so that gives me a really good idea where that Center is sitting so now I will eyeball that let me bring you guys closer so you can see my impact driver and screws these are not dry wall screws guys remember this whenever you're doing face plates absolutely no drywall screws the way I've understand it is you don't want any hardened steel screws he wants soft steel so hardened steel screws will break and you also another big deal and if you've seen this on my article about faceplates you want that screw to fit inside that shaft or that hole pretty snugly you don't want a skinny screw into a big hole because it gives it room to wiggle and that will eventually at worse or at the best-case-scenario it'll move around on you which you don't want worst case it'll break it off now another thing i do is i start one screw and i make sure i'll go to the opposite side with a second screw and make sure that i'm centered I'm looking straight down that hole in that Center mark that I made alright then I can tighten up and put all the screws in place and yeah I do like using all the screws I know it's going to be on there it's not going anywhere so what are you guys doing right now in your quarantined environments how many of you guys are out turning or have access to a lathe so you can turn leave me a comment below I'd love to know and what type of tree species have you been turning again this is honey locust this came from Illinois this is from my parents yard and it's like I said it's three-and-a-half years old so I know it's going to be very very hard I've recently turned some of this that has some moisture in it still so it will potentially have some movement in it but it's gonna have very little movement it's gonna be pretty hard to turn initially so I've got to use really sharp tools all right and I'm going to be taking this bark off first that's gonna take a little bit of a little bit of energy to get through that bark trying to read to set this as we go here bring this up there we go yeah I talked to myself a little bit while I turn don't we all maybe not make sure I'm on center no there's one of our little worm rodent buddies whoa did you see that did he just jump back into that hole I haven't seen that well he's gonna go for a ride here in a second all right I am going to turn off this bark initially I always start at load the lowest speed of the lathe to make sure we've got stability and I think our little guy just shot out right there maybe not some of the loose debris is shooting out okay so now what I'm doing is I'm bringing the speed up gradually until I start feeling a little bit of instability on the lathe got a little bit of a wobble going on there it's not a real bad vibration just a little bit of a wobble all right so now I'm going to make push cuts from the center out I'm starting the corner hold on a second you see that bar coming off there and that's why you want to stand out of the line of fire you don't want to stand here if you don't have to all right and I've got that corner off so now I can move the tool rest in and a little bit closer angle nice yeah we'll just keep moving actually you know I'm gonna do this can be a little bit safer that that bark is pretty you don't need it if you can prevent it from flying off that's not a bad thing to be doing so I'm going to see if I can pry some of that off yeah it's better than sending it flying there's definitely some insect activity under the bark here and I'm not quite sure what I'm going to do with this I think it's gonna be a traditional traditional Bowl I might try to do a thin bowl because I know this material is not moving a lot it may move a bit if I don't if I make a super thin it'll probably get warped and a little bit funky looking but if I make it you know a quarter inch or somewhere in that vicinity it might turn out to be a really nice elegant bowl so we'll just have to see into once I get this shape down [Music] Wow that debris from the wormholes is like smoke coming out of there I'm gonna go back to my respirator yeah those worms can really pack that into the into those holes all right so you're gonna have to bear with me I'm gonna be under the respirator here for a few minutes and then we'll get this and round it off and see what it looks like okay so I know that this is going to become flat so what I'm going to do is I'm actually gonna start that process right here because that's gonna give me something to go on and is where the tenon is gonna be attached I'm gonna go ahead and flatten that out then I'll continue rounding [Applause] all right so we're getting a little bit of a flat surface there I'm gonna go continue rounding this and hopefully we'll get through a bunch of these wormholes because those guys are going to be a little bit of a booger if we don't we can always work with them and fix them okay so the the bulb blank is more symmetrical here so I'm going to bring the speed up a bit it'll make this cut a little bit easier and smoother but this is really hardwood I'm going to need to sharpen my bowl gouge here shortly I'm gonna fire up the air compressor while we're doing this so that I can blow the dust off [Music] [Music] hmmm I'm gonna come around here and finish this or fix this rim straighten it up when I'm doing that I'm gonna also bring the I'll bring the camera over here so you can see but I'm also bringing the controls for the lay the round too if you have that ability you want to keep the controls with you on the side that you're turning so I'm going to be on the left side of the lathe here while I'm getting this squared away here okay so we've got some issues to deal with we've got a little bit cracking here at the pith on one side we still are gonna have wormholes in this I think no matter what and we've got a wormhole right about where the tenon is going to go so I'm gonna I'm gonna reduce this section a bit more and shape the tenon and we'll go from there and see how we're looking I'll bring this now so you can see what I'm doing here okay so I'm gonna remove probably at least another quarter inch from the bottom and then we'll go ahead and shape the tenon and what's the tenon shape basically when you're designing a bull you've got three different points in which the design is going to be dictated from first obviously the the overall shape of the bowl blank but you're gonna have the tenon once you've made your tenon if you do a mortise that's fine once you've done your mortise and then you decide what your rim is gonna be where it will be located how high up and what the shape of its going to be essentially then you have to connect the the base to the rim and that's your shape of the bull there's not much more you can do at that point so you want to start thinking about what you want the foot to look like and what the rim looks like and then you're gonna merge the tube let me go ahead and trim this down a bolt tell you what let me blow some dust off it's amazing how much dust there was [Applause] also this is really symmetrical now so I can get this speed up I don't want to go more than about a thousand rpms I definitely don't want to create vibration in the lathe it's a pretty good speed right there [Applause] [Music] [Music] all right a couple things going on here I can feel heat building up while I'm holding the tool down here a couple inches from the tip and that basically means that these have been heated dramatically that's because the woods really hard so let's go over here and I'm gonna sharpen these go ahead and sharpen both of them and again I wear my respirator with this it's something that I try to get everybody to do justice so the metal dust coming from that is is definitely not healthy so you want to keep your respirator on while you're sharpening and by the way if this is interesting to you as far as sharpening or alerting to sharpen I have a tool sharpening for wood Bowl turning course that's going to be coming out hopefully in the next few weeks so stay tuned for the haul [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] okay yeah and in that course I'm going to teach every aspect of sharpening every tool that you need to use for turning wood bulls from bowl gouges to scrapers even carbide carbide tools I'll show you how to sharpen those as well we're gonna cover all of it all the safety all the aspects all the equipment you need how to set it up the whole nine yards so that's something if you're having trouble with sharpening or if it's something you're not quite sure about it's probably as important as any other tool technique or any other techniques while turning because if you don't have sharp tools you're not going to you're not gonna have much success turning bowls okay let me grab my dividers now what I'm doing is I've used pointed dividers to mark the tenon you might have seen me do this in other videos and this what's really important with this is the right side of this divider never touches the wood because if it does it's gonna kick back and flip over you don't want that so what I'm doing is I'm mark on the left side only and the right side I'm just I'm making the line so it's right underneath the right side and this is the width of my of my four jaw Chuck so that's going to be the base of the tenon so now we can continue turning what I'm gonna turn here is the pretending cylinder I'm not going to shape the Fulton and dovetail yet but the ten is a cylinder and then the shoulder that'll go right above the tenon [Music] [Applause] okay so basically we defined where the tenon is gonna be and where the shoulder is gonna be from there from the base of this shoulder I'm going to connect to that to the rim with a nice flowing curve right now it's got we have a bottom of a bowl and a side of a bulb now you could do that but that's one heck of a hard turn to turn inside to get the bottom of that corner inside plus I think a more fluid flowing bowl is much more elegant and that's what we're going to shoot for I'm going to keep removing material out here and shape the shape the side of the bowl let me bring you around here so you'll see a little bit better what's going on and I'm gonna blow over this alright so again tell me what you guys have been up to yeah what kind of wood you're turning and how many bowls have you made since you've been in isolation I know I've made my share I've probably about ten let me show you something real quick I've been playing around to you there was that there was a laurel oak tree around the corner that came down and I was I've been making a couple of little hollow forms to which have been a lot of fun to do and it's basically very a very closed rim Bowl okay so I'm going to turn this and get this shaped this by the way this is a 3/8 bull gouge and I've got the nose pointing in the direction of the cut okay so I'm going from the base of the bowl outward with the with the nose pointing that way [Music] [Music] do you hear that chatter at the very end what was happening there as I was I was overextended too far on the tool rest so I didn't have as much support over here with the tool wrists and it was getting a little bit of vibration going on there see now I've got a big ol wormhole right here that is I'm just barely missing the side of it it doesn't bother me a whole bunch these are going to go through the side wall and there's another one to go in through the side wall it's kind of a kind of a fun future actually okay so now what I'm doing when I'm cutting down here the tendency is for your eyeball to want to be here but in reality I'm watching this top edge across the top of this eye cuz I can see the curve better here then I can down at the bottom at the tool rest [Music] [Applause] tell you what let me see if I can get you over at the top here so you can see what I'm doing a little bit better there's not too much dust on my lens my goodness how much dust is coming off of this and it's all from those wormholes okay so up until now I've been using push cuts this whole time you hear where the shoulder is meeting the base of the bowl I want to I want to make this a little bit more defined but it's not so simple to start a push cut back here so what I'm going to do is I'm actually gonna do a scraping cut and a pull cut that's going to pull and shape that and then I can pick up the push cut on the outside [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] okay overall I like the shape of this that big wide wormhole is just barely there there's some tool marks on this it's a little bit rough so what I'm gonna do now is I'm going to go through and I'm going to I'm going to use a sheer scrape now a sheer scrape is a totally different presentation the bowl gouge I'm going to be I'm gonna have the base of the you know if you see that the base of the bowl gouge is gonna be in my hip it's basically gonna be right here on my side the ball gouge is pointing straight up and it's gonna be the flute is closed up against the wood except it's tilted out just a little bit so this bottom edge is gonna be doing this scraping it's almost like a it's almost like shaving and I'm going to use that to refine this shape and smooth the surface bolt at the same time and then I'm going to come up here and clean up this this upper rim and then we'll finish the tent [Applause] [Applause] so good shear scrape is gonna get them produces really fine shavings now with the tool rest you're only you can only really shear scrape a little area like I was working this area I'm going to move the tool rest so I have more of a perpendicular support and now I'm going to work I'm going to work this area right here another important thing about the shear scrape is because it is it's such a subtle shade you can go against the grain of the supporting green so you can go this way or you can come back with the supported grain and it works just as fine and it doesn't tear up the surface [Applause] okay now I'm going to check and see where the you can not too much dust on here I'm gonna see where this rim is and the rims not perfectly straight so I'm going to very carefully make a push cut on this side of the rim over here and into the rim but very delicately so the bottom the bottom of the bowl gouge is the only edge is going to catch this or cut it rather not catch catch is a bad bad woodturning term we don't use that one right now I just want to make that rim even okay and it seems really even the exterior feels real nice I'm liking that we've got a little bit of a crack issue to deal with here on this on this pip I'm gonna take the rim down a bit so we because I know that's gonna continue and I can see there's another vein starting here so I can get past that one at least there's a little bit of separation here in the grain which is it's it's not horrible we can do a couple things to fix often [Music] okay I'm gonna bring it down a bit more you still don't know if you can see that there's still a little bit of an edge there and I've got a wormhole it's gonna be right up on the rim here that's not too bad I guess okay and I got a little chip out there so let's give it a little bit more okay that's gonna work now what I'm going to do is I'm going to shape the tenon we need to make sure that dovetail matches the dovetail of the four jaw Chuck if you look over here I'm ending light down so you see what's happening is the right now I just have a cylinder and as a two cylinders one for the shoulder and one for the tenon this tenon cylinder needs two things to happen before we can flip this over first of all I need to put a dovetail so this this this outside tapers inward so it'll make the sort of Chuck and lock on to it and I'm going to use the spindle detail gouge which I'm also going to use for the bullet for the dovetail I'm going to use that to make a little register mark on the bottom of the bowl [Music] [Music] okay fantastic now you actually even undercut this just a little bit so that it will it will what we want is the top of the truck has to sit perfectly flush with this shoulder all right so I'm gonna back the camera up and we're gonna go take the faceplate out off and get a truck out and we'll flip this around reposition you guys so you can see what's going on all right so that's bark hanging down there and put this here you can see how much I took that rim down to avoid this crack on the side my battery wants to quit got one more buddy you can do it I think I can I think I can one more there we go whoo that was close okay so the four jaw Chuck is it's a four inch it's actually not four inches it's however many millimeters it's four inches is roughly I never I never remember that one maybe you guys in England or Australia or basically anywhere other than the United States maybe you can tell me how many millimeters this is let me bring actually the move on put it bring the camera around so you can see that I want you to see what just happened here's the most important part of doing a tenon as you want that to sit flush every single time I'm going to show you the side of the of the bowl here there's a side view let me let me pop this off so you can see it again so the jaws two things have to happen you want you want the the shoulder of the bowl to seat properly on top of this of the Chuck and you want the jaws not to close all the way down I have a whole video on this and I have a big article on it so go check those out if you have them into my website yeah it's turning wood Volcom you definitely need to check it out if you're interested even remotely in turning wood bowls okay so now we're all set up to start taking out the center of the bowl and what I like to do now when I'm turning in this in this particular point of the turning is I'm going to define what the the shape of the rims gonna be I'm gonna bring the lights around here so you get a better look and I like to work from the outside of the bull inward so I'm thinking this is going to be a relatively elegant kind of simple thin contemporary looking bull so to do that what I'm going to either do is I'm either gonna leave this rim flat like horizontal across or I'm going to tip it in a little bit almost at a 90 degree angle to the sidewall and I think that's the route I'm going to go so I'm going to make that I'm gonna make the pass for the top of the rim and then I'm going to clear all the material out of here this extra material and then we'll start working the side of the bull down let's check it out okay I don't know if you can see that angle or not I'm going to show you that angle it's just a slightly inward angle so if something were to sit on the rim it would fall into the bowl and that's not the real reason for it it's just aesthetically that's a kind of a pleasing appearance so I'm going to I'm going to remove this material on the face of it and then we'll start working the sidewalls of the bowl [Music] [Music] [Music] okay so I know I do have an issue here with the cracking going on over here in that split and what I want to do is I want to slow that process so there's a little trick that I like to do and I'll show you how that works let's do this right now so we can see it you can see this crack right here let me get the exposure down just a bit okay you can see the crack coming from the pit line and there's like a little separation here as well so here's the trick that I use the trick is to take some spray lacquer doesn't have to be doesn't have to be fancy spray lacquer and what I'm gonna do is I'm not gonna do this with the camera there I don't want to get it right in the camera but I'm just gonna spray that area you can see I sprayed the area around those cracks now why would I do that well the purpose for that is to basically create a seal on the wood so that the the CA the glue that I'm going to use to support that crack doesn't stain all over that it will create a little bit of a stain but it won't be horrible now when I'm looking for on the side of the lathe here on the rails is some really fine really fine sawdust or powder from the from the turning and you can see how small that crack is it's barely taking any any dust in that crack and that's fine the lacquer is all made already dry so what I'm gonna do is very carefully put some super thin CA in here and I'm gonna hit this crack down here all right those are touched now I'm going to take a little little sawdust and I'm gonna just wipe that off so it's down in there and it doesn't drip all over the side of the bowl and that's a quick little tip this one I when I come back as sand I will be able to sand that lacquer away and it will hopefully remove any stains that occurred from the glue okay so I'm come back around here and we well now I'm going to start doing the the thickness of the bull this is this is the same technique that I use for doing a live edge bowl because the exterior wings of the bull and the thickness of the wall is really critical so instead of coring from the middle out I start from the outside and work my way in and it works a lot better you have a lot more control and you can make if you wanted to you can make a really thin wall and it will be supported the trick is if you work from the top down and you don't go backwards because as you work down that top layer that's going to be a thin wall up here is going to be it's going to be fragile and it'll vibrate and we don't want that so the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to clear a path like add a little I call like a ditch I'm gonna dig a ditch right here and then I'm gonna come in with my smaller bull gout and I'm gonna start defining that that outside wall that's really getting my camera isn't it all right so what happened there was as I took the bull gouge and I had the angle and an angle this way and it kicked back out so what I want to do is I want to keep that at a 90 degree angle and pushed straight in it's amazing how much that's heating up the bowl gouge as it goes gonna brush these off okay alright and we can see that crack over here I've probably they keep about that wall thickness and I kind of want to bring the rim drop it down just a little bit more so I'm gonna refine that real quick got a little chip out right here to it'll help take care of that okay that's looking pretty good and that's about the thickness I'm gonna leave it so now I'm gonna start working down the down the sidewall and as I go I'm going to be taking the middle out this middle mass is going to provide stability on this outside wall and as I remove that middle mass this higher wall is going to have left stability and is going to vibrate more so I don't want to come back up and do any more work on these outside walls once this has been removed incredible how hard this would is [Music] [Music] yeah one of our one holes making a nice presence there it's incredible how hard that is okay I'm gonna bring this in a little bit better for you it's a bunch of dust flying around oh and make sure I'm not making a horrible image there okay so now you see what I'm doing with this ditch concept I keep working the center down and now I'm working the side down it's getting pretty thick right here so with the next spot I'm going to work is going to start right here and then downward a little bit there we go this is where you want to stop frequently and use your fingers as calipers I can feel that is even here and it gets a little bit thicker there so I need to make a little bit of pass from here down all right now I can see the curve over here I'm liking that shape and yeah it's following the outside curve really nicely okay so now I'm going to continue lowering the interior [Music] [Applause] so when I pick up a cut here you can see the line there where I need to be cutting that needs to be low over here this is the the thickness I want what I'm doing is I'm gonna rub the heel first so that way I don't accidentally to start cutting into this and then I'm going to lift the handle and engage the bevel and then start the cut I'm putting down pressure on the tool rest alright I need to take a quick break and sharpen some tools that shape works perfectly bring you guys over with me really sharpening is is such a big deal without sharp tools you pretty much can't accomplish much you can see that I was I don't have you noticed but I was struggling with those last few cuts because these tools are not sharp anymore we've got a storm going on outside and I've got a an exterior line that is keeps flipping my breaker so you are really live with me here because I would have totally edited that right out like being live but it's not and trust me once I can do live videos I'm gonna do some more for you guys so the question is does anybody really want this bowl would somebody like to win this bowl so one of the there's gonna be some criteria to enter to win this bowl and I will explain that number one you need to you need to subscribe to this channel number two I need you to leave a comment below this video it doesn't matter what it is tell me what you were doing today tell me what you've been doing since you've been quarantined tell me what the last bowl is you turned whatever you'd like just leave a comment below you got a question about turning any kind of question I'll be happy to answer it and then I need you to go watch one of my other videos on this channel [Applause] and hit the like button one at least one of the other videos on my channel and if you do all those things you'll be registered to potentially win this bowl I think I'm gonna wait until I think it's July first I'm gonna announce who the winner is and bring this back over and I will send this bull to you now we're gonna finish shaping this bowl today I'm not going to do all of the finish work as far as the sanding and the thing I'm gonna use tried-and-true linseed and beeswax linseed oil and beeswax on this and I'm not gonna do all that on camera because it's gonna take forever but I'm gonna do all that I'm actually doing a new video soon to show how the tenon is turned off of a bowl like this and I think I'll actually use this bowl as a demonstration for that video so by the time this gets shipped out to whoever wins it on July 1st you'll be able to see this video and the other video which will be turning the tin enough of this [Applause] damn and it's sure I'm gonna use my curve tool rest these are these are robust tool rests and I'll tell you what these are the best I will put a link on these for these on the description these are these are just just fantastic tool wrists to use for a whole bunch of different reasons I just love the natural curve of it but this is actually a hardened steel edge so it's like almost impossible to put a ding or a nick in it so you have a continuously smooth flow around here there's nothing interrupting the tool which makes a nice smooth cuts all right so I'm feeling that it's getting a little bit thick right there which it should be yeah so I'm going to go pick that up and keep this going to the center let's see what we got here check that out I've got a little bit of an edge right there so you can see you probably see that where it's a little bit higher it's a little trick for that I don't want to what I don't want to do is I don't want to start a cut up here and then go all the way to the bottom and then make the bottom super thin I really just want to get this high spot knocked down so a way to do that is take a pencil make a mark on that high spot now the only thing I'm gonna do this is a little bit dangerous cut if you're just learning how to use the bowl gouge because I'm gonna have it completely opened up right and I'm gonna use that open edge just to shave off that high spot and then I rotate the tool so it comes out of the cut because I don't want to continue digging down into that surface now there's a little bit of tool mark there but that'll sand out all right guys we've got ourselves a bowl and there's actually some pretty cool character in it with the with the worm holes all right let me reposition the camera here wow it's got dusty in here okay so that's it this is the bowl let me bring the light up so you can see let me just make sure I've got everything set up here okay so whew I hope that was fun for you and I hope you picked up some some tips or some ideas on how to possibly make your bowl turning a little bit more efficient or a little bit easier or I don't know hopefully you learn something from it yeah we're had just fun watching so leave me a comment now this is thing if you want this bowl now it's not done now the reason this isn't done I've got a tenon on here because what I'm gonna do is I'm going to finish sanding this I'm gonna put tried-and-true linseed oil and beeswax which is this really nice really nice finish I've got an article about it's called go if you go over my favorite food safe wood bull finish you'll find it and the application for this is you put a really thin coat on and you let it sit for one hour and then you wipe that coat off and then you let it set for 24 hours and after 24 hours you can burnish it well you can hand rub it in burnish it and it works okay but what I like to do is I like to put it back on the chuck and turn it and not fast but turn it and I burn --is-- it with steel wool and it just puts a beautiful luster on that on the wood finish and it makes it wonderful and at that point then I reverse the bowl and I remove the tenon and like I said I'm gonna make a separate video on removing the tenon which will also be on this channel it's gonna be down the road a little ways but you get a chance to see it so July first this bowl is gonna be given away to whoever follows whoever enters and wants to win here's the criteria you need to subscribe to my channel first so click the I think it's down here click the little subscribe button then leave a comment on this on this video let me know what you think let me know you want to win this bowl and go to my other videos on this channel and like hit the like button on the ones you like okay those are the three things you need to do I'm gonna announce the winner in one of my videos coming out on July 1st I'm gonna announce the winner and then will private message or something and I'll get your address and I'm gonna send you this bowl and I'll probably throw in something else for you to if you're interested so alright if you haven't already subscribed do it and thanks for joining me and like I said as soon as soon as YouTube will let me I'm really gonna do a live turning for you guys but for right now this will have to be as close as we can get to live alright thanks guys take care

Channel: Turn A Wood Bowl

Views: 218,519

Rating: 4.8294072 out of 5

Keywords: wood bowl turning, wood bowls, wood turning, bowl turning, bowl turning techniques, bowl gouge, woodturning tools, woodturning techniques, wood bowl, wood lathe, bowl turning basics, how to, wood turning basics beginners, woodturning for beginners, bowl gouge basics, woodturning bowl, woodturning tools for bowls, wood turning for beginners, bowl turning videos, bowl gouge technique, bowl gouge for beginners, wood turning tools, woodturning bowls, Kent weakley

Id: m4540LiW_4s

Length: 65min 19sec (3919 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 14 2020