Lesson 2 - Free Embroidery Digitizing Challenge using Hatch Embroidery Software

have you ever thought about creating your own embroidery designs this process is called digitizing and although many embroiders want to pursue it the problem is where exactly do you start thankfully having taught tens of thousands of embroiders how to digitize globally that's exactly why we released our new embroidery digitizing made easy challenge this free hands-on challenge is the perfect starting point for anyone looking to try digitizing using 7 bite-sized video lessons taught by yours truly I'll walk you through how to digitize and create 6 different embroidery designs from scratch using a 30-day free trial of hatch downloaded through us embroidery legacy if you're viewing this video on YouTube and what the files to participate in this challenge click the link below to enroll now now for our next design we're going to digitize a rose but we're going to bring some color into this design to bring it to life [Music] so I'm going to go to file and I'm going to go to open design and I'm going to find the one that says Rose master I'm going to select it and hit open and again this design will come in and it's going to have the artworks which I can see in the sequence view but you notice that I don't see anything on screen well if you ever bring a design in and you can see that the design does have the artwork there but you can't see it on screen remember the hotkey to display the artwork is the D key to display so I hit the D key on my keyboard and the artwork came back in now if I also look at this and I'm going to zoom into it to full screen and that is to hit the zero button on my hotkeys that goes to full screen I know this design is about three and a half inches that's what I resized it to we're going to digitize the outline of this rose but we're going to make sure that we fill in the rows with red stitches and we're going to fill in the leaves with green stitches now even though we are going to resequenced the colors so that they run first I'm going to digitize the outline first then the colors and then we'll resequenced them in the order we want them to so remember when you're digitizing you're creating objects and you can assign those objects to so in which ever sequence you want within your sequence view along the side now before we do that I'm going to show you how to create a fill stitch up to this point we've been using this tool right here within our digitized toolbox when I click on that we've been using the digitized open shape which is a star with the top cut off there's a tool right under it that's called digitized closed shape and it looks like a completed star and what that means is I can draw an object and when I click to enter it it'll automatically close the shape and that's when I can choose to make it a fill stitch now before I show you how to digitize the fill stitch I just want to go back to our display options that we've learned in the very first introduction and we applied in the first lesson if I wanted to digitize this at a set scale the hotkey is the F key for zoom factor and if I were to put this at a six to one scale which I type in a six in the zoom factor and hit OK that's the area I'm seeing on screen and this is what I would digitize that now odds are you'll probably on a smaller monitor see something that looks like that and that means that you're going to try to travel around the design quite a bit so sometimes I'll digitize again at my three-to-one scale and there I can see the design it's in its entirety but even with it at three to one on a 27-inch monitor if you are working on a 15 inch monitor you won't even see the entire design so what I'm going to do is I'm going to zoom in to the entire design so I see it on screen and if you are at the zero which is the actual fit to screen the design is a little smaller because it's fitting to screen the entire artwork and if I want to just zoom into the rows then I'll use my b4 zoom box and it's the B key on your keyboard and now I can see that little magnifying glass come up and when I left click and hold and drag I will get a box and I can then let go where I want to and it zooms into the entire area where I just zoomed into now I can still traveler on my designs with my traveling keys along the bottom arrows or along the right hand side with the up and down arrows as well now if I want to create a fill stitch when we were doing outlines we were using our digitized open shape and when I click that the property box comes up and it shows me the different stitch types that I have for an open shape which are run triple sculpture and so on now I could even digitize a satin stitch which means that if I were to choose satin stitch and I just put in two or three points and hit enter it created a satin stitch now I'm going to undo that and I'm going to choose the tool that I said I was going to teach you which is the digitized shape now with the digitized clothes shape when I click it you're going to notice that another option appears and I left click now and I can see that up at the top there is a highlighted box which says outline and that shows me the same tools I was just using it using but beside it there's actually one called fill and if I click on the fill box instead of the outline box it gives me a whole different set of properties that I can now utilize it changed from my outline or my running stitch properties to my fill stitch properties which can range anywhere from a tatami which is a fill stitch to a satin to 3d satin which builds up layers to motifs embossing ripple stitches contour stitches there's all kinds of different stitches to play with and in the final lesson we will touch on some of those a little bit but again we're just going to keep it really simple now I'm gonna use a tatami stitch which is a fill and again if I want to do a red fill stitch I'll click on a red color on my bottom colors so I'm just going to choose number two which is point set it's the default within hatch now if I have my highlighted tool set it says digitize closed shape it's highlighted on tatami stitch and if I do the same thing if I put one two three four points I can make a diamond that by just hitting Enter right now I do not have to come back to the beginning because this is going to close the shape and there is my fill now same thing that we learned with right and left clicks if I do a nether shape and I do a straight curve straight straight and then enter it will give me a curve so I always have to look towards or forward on the next object to determine if I want a straight or curved effect so it's the same principles except it closes the shapes now I wanted to show you that because when we do the outlining first we're going to use the first tool that we use in our last lesson which was digitized open shape we're gonna do all the outlines on this rose and then we're going to branch it together and or you could read work but I'm going to branch it and use a different stitch type and then we're going to fill in the colors and rhe sequence them so when we're done we're gonna have a rose that is a red rose with green leaves and an outline to define the entire object now I'm ready to get started so I'm just going to undo those last two objects that I did I click the undo button or I could have grabbed them selected them within the sequence and deleted them there's many ways to delete objects but I'm going to pan back over to an area of my rose and again I'm not really concerned about what scale your digitizing at right now if you do decide that you want to get into more complex digitizing then we'll go down that row it at a later date now at this point I'm going to choose digitize open shape I'm going to choose just a regular run stitch because it doesn't matter really what I'm creating as far as my finishing stitch because I can always change it later and I'm going to do the same thing with regards to branching I'm going to make sure that I have let's say purple chosen I can always change the color later and I'm going to start to digitize these objects so I'll just put a point here and then I'll do curve curve curve curves straight curve all the way around to where I started maybe over right here and hit the enter so I've just created one shape now if I want to if you want to see things a little bit clearer you can always zoom in a little bit again I don't really care what scale you're at I do like to digitize at least between three and six hundred percent keeping in mind that the more you're zoomed in the more accurate you're going to be with regards to your points and it also is a little bit of a catch-22 because you're also going to be quicker you don't have to be as precise because the larger the scale within reason the faster you can be because there's gues more margin error you don't have to be as precise so I'm going to do that line again I'm just going to again left and then I'm going to right right right straight for left go back to my rights for curves go back to the beginning hit the left and hit enter and then I can start on the next point and I'm just going to go right all the way down to this point here enter and I can do this point and I go no curves to a straight and then back to curves and I hit enter now I don't really care or I'm not concerned if everything is perfect to the artwork I want to I want to try to keep it as close as possible but it doesn't have to be perfect because nobody's going to ever see the original artwork when it's done it's going to be transformed into stitches now remember when I get to this point here if I just tap over on the screen it will actually move because it has an auto panning feature hit enter now I can do this point right here and I'm just using curves to a straight back to curves and then I'll finish off with a straight can enter straight curve curved curved curve I use you just enter or finish with a straight enter and I'm just going to quickly go through and digitize all of these lines again if I if I I moved over and I hit enter and it actually gave me a point out in space there so I'm just going to backspace at this point and now I can continue on so if you ever put down a point or a couple of points while you're in wireframe mode you don't have to worry you can always hit the backspace button and it will get you back to where you started so straight curve curve curve straight enter here I'm going to do a straight curve curve straight curve curve curve curve enter and then I'm going to just start right here and I'm going to do curves all the way around here again you know I just I'm trying to finish each of these lines there's only a single passive thread on every one of these lines and then I'm just making sure that they are all touching so all the branches on the trees are touching another branch so I want to make sure that I just digitize every line that I see a straight curved curve and now I'm just curving around the outside of this object and I'm panning Auto panning as soon as I get close to the edge of the screen the software will automatically kind of shift but I want to make sure that I don't hit it too abruptly I just give it a little tap like that as soon as I get close and then it moves over just a tad you can control the sensitivity of your auto scrolling but I to be honest I'm not going to show you how to do that because it is information overload at this point the default that's set is the one that I'm using and it is pretty easy to get used to I just moved around the screen a little bit there with my arrows but hatch is like an onion and actually I'm going to backspace because I did not like the way it did that I'll go to straight straight and then go back to a curve sometimes on those tight little angles I do need to switch from a curve to a straight to make sure that I'm following the lines and here same thing just going around the outside hitting the curves and I'll just come right to this point enter and again same thing here curves all the way around the other side making sure I slow down a little bit when I got to that last point because it was touching other objects and I wanted to make sure that my branch is connected and I'm able to do a nice long path here I actually finished a really big area of this and let's hit enter and then I can just come in and finish all of these little pieces this is curves straight enter curve curve curve enter here I can do a curves all the way around and if your line looks off a little bit sometimes when you come back and finish it you know that area I'm not going to really be concerned about when I outline the colors this is why I'm adding the color last because if I do the colors first then I have to be really sure and careful that it's going to line up to the outlines but because I'm doing the outlines first now I can you know do these and then I can follow the red in the rose and the green and the leaves to match the outline that I've already digitized I don't have to them be true to the artwork I can actually be true to the outlines that I've created which is easier than trying to you know do it the other way I'm always trying to save a little bit of time and I'm also trying to make sure that my designs look as clean as possible I like clean looking embroidery enter and I'm just going to do left clicks all there sorry right clicks for curves all the way around this object and enter and then this one I'll just start right here enter I'm almost done I'm all the way around here enter and this last little point right here enter now if I go to zero it'll go fullscreen and I can see that I've completed every area of that design now if I turn the TrueView off which is the T key that's the true view key and if I turn my artwork off which is the D key for disappear I can see all of those trims and jumps the same as I did before now if you again wanted to save this design right now it would be worthwhile because then you can choose to either in the future branch it or you could do red work branching so I'm going to save this right now as a working file and I might call this Rose master underscore one and that way I know that I have number one saved as my master and then I can apply whatever type of branching that I want now if you recall to do the branching all I have to do is select the entire object I can either go in my sequence view and there is two tabs I'm showing you something new here there is an object tab which shows you all of the objects and I have 33 objects that I just created to create that design or you can click over to the colors tab which shows all the objects as one so if I click on the actual color and select it it then becomes highlighted or if I escape it'll become unhighlight 'add and i could go over the objects and do the same now if I choose to select it not in colors but in objects then I can just hit the control a button if I click on the screen and then hit control a and that will select all of the items and I can see that all the items now have a black wireframe around them and they are highlighted you have to have the items highlighted that you want to branch together so now that they are highlighted the branching appears I can click on branching with a left-click and again as soon as I click on the bottom left hand corner it's going to say enter entry point so I'm going to do an entry point but I want to make sure that I do it in a visually unnoticeable spot which might be right here because there's lots of areas that are intersecting so I can enter there now if I exit my branching I generally don't like to exit in the same place because you have to remember your thread is going to tie in there and you don't want it to tie out in the exact same place because you'll have a build up of thread so I'll choose another visually unnoticeable spot which could be let's say you know right over here right in this part right here of the design and if it ties out there odds are a little bit of build up won't be that visible where it would be visible on the outside of the object so I now have no trims and jumps and now that it's branched I can also choose a different stitch type whether it's a stem stitch and this actually does a pretty cool if you want to do something that looks kind of random looking and you want it just to have an impression allistic and kind of a rough look that looks great but I'm going to go back to my back stitch and I'm going to choose a three pass back stitch and I am in inches right now remember that if you want to go from inches to metric because in software generally digitizing software all of the increments are in millimeters not in inches I escape and unselect the item and when I did that now the menus for us and metric show up and when I click on metric now it changed the measurements for me and I could adjust those based on whatever stitch length I wanted if I wanted to have it as a 3.5 millimeter stitch I hit it and it will loosen up the density a little bit in certain areas okay so you can play with your stitch lengths based on what size you want to make it so now that the first part of my design is done I'm going to change this back to the default which is 2.5 millimeters you know you can play yeah let's put it this way we're digitizing it's all about running samples seeing what looks good and experimenting and this is the fun part of it the difference is I'm actually showing you how to do some really cool stuff and we're giving you all of the theory in the background so that you're kind of building one step at a time so now that that part is done I'm going to bring the artwork back and there's the artwork and now we can start to digitize all of the other colors on top of it if I wanted to at this point I could take that rose which I've made purple and I could make it black for the outline so that we can kind of get you know a black outline keep in mind though the day I walk into my garden and I see black outlines around my flowers I probably have a disease but in this it's kind of a cartoony effect and it will give definition or the rose now I'm going to digitize the red and the rose first then I'll do the green leaves and then we're going to change the properties of the fills that we're using all at the same time because we're going to use all the same properties for this example and keep it easy so I'm going to turn off the true view and again I escape so it's not selected hit the true view and now I can see that I just see the outlines of the actual object now if I wanted to I could change this to a blue color or something just so that I have a visual black-on-black kind of is hard to see and I want to make sure that I line up to the outlines of the stitch that I created and not necessarily the artwork so I'm also going to zoom in so I can see the entire rose so I'm going to take my B key the hotkey for zoom box and I'm going to left-click and drag on that object just so I can see it a little bit bigger and then I'm going to take my digitized clothes shape it's highlighted right now but remember I have to look at what it is highlighted on at the top as well right now it says outlines and I don't want outlines I want actually fills so I'm going to click on fills and to tell me is the default now I want to have a red rose so it's at this point that I'm going to choose a red color within my color palette at the bottom and now that I have that done I'm just going to start right here put a straight and I'm just going to outline curve curve curve and I'll just outline around this object probably come to a straight right here go to a curve on this side and I'm just going to try to follow as closely as I can to the object that I created using a series of straight and curved stitches so this is curves all the way to here and then this one could be a straight curved curved curve all the way around straight curved curved curved and I don't want to make the leaves red I'm just doing the Rose straight curve curved curve and I just have to follow around the outside now if I were I guess more experienced at this point if you do want to continue playing and do this design again you could actually do each of the petals individually and change all of the directions of the petals but that again is a little more advanced and we want to learn how to you know crawl before we walk and walk before we run so we're just taking this one step at a time I know you're going to be pleased with the results so let's just do it this way first and I'm gonna make it all the way back to where I almost started here's where I started I'm not going to click back on that same point buying and hit enter and now I can see that I have a red fill now that the red fill is done I'm going to leave it as is for right now I'm gonna change things later but now I want to do the little leaves and I'm gonna choose a green color and then once I've chosen green I'm still on digitized closed shape I still have it set it a fill I'm just going to do a straight curve curve and I'm going to go straight curve curve and I'll just digitize and I go back to almost where I started and hit enter and there's a little leaf straight curve curve curve straight curve curve curve curve almost back to where I enter there's another one let's do this one right here curve curve curve curve curve straight straight curve curve almost where I finished and enter so there's my third leaf and then I have two more leaves here there's a straight curve curve curve curve straight curve curve curve curve curve straight curve curve almost back to where I started hit enter and one more little leaf all by itself right there you know here is where I'm going to really make things simple because right now I have four I guess where it's probably more one two three four fills five fills plus the red and I have underlay setup and I really don't want to get into the theory of under layer pathing at this point I'm going to choose to do this in a very loose fill effect so that you're almost seeing some of the fabric showing through the item and the fill is going to be so loose that it won't cause a lot of what's called push-and-pull on the design if you dive more into the theory of digitizing there's something called push-and-pull compensation that you do have to learn especially when you're doing fills on objects because the direction of the stitch will cause it to pull in areas and the open ends of the stitch will cause it to push and that's why doing outlines is a little more difficult and also why the general rule of embroidery is what you see on screen and what you actually get when it sews on the machine are two very different things but we're not going to cross that bridge right now so I'm going to go to full screen I'm going to grab all of my fill stitches that I just created so just the fill stitches and I'm going to grab that one and select it if I go to colors I'm going to hold the ctrl key down or the shift key because they are in order but I'm going to grab the red first and then I'm going to grab the green and now I can see that everything is highlighted except for the outline the outline is a you know kind of a running stitch it's a it's a no-step stitch so to speak but the fill stitches are a different stitch type and I would rather change those all at the same time with regards to property otherwise I'd have to do the same job like seven times so we're going to grab those they're highlighted and now we can change the properties so that they're all done at once now I did mention to you that hatch is intuitive and intelligent and it's because it's a welcome product that's been in development for for decades they have things that other companies don't have like this Auto branching that intelligently works through all of the objects of the design but they also have something called fabric assist and we're not going to go into that too much now I'll give an example later in a couple more lessons but right now the fabric assist is set at pure cotton it actually says pure cotton at the bottom of the screen and on pure cotton the actual spacing or the space between the stitches on a fill stitch for good coverage on that material type is actually point four millimeters of space on certain fabrics it could be less on other fabrics it could be more you don't have the same density for leather or lycra or for a terry cloth or for pure cotton or for corduroy they all vary based on the fabric type now here with the spacing if I want the fabric to show through and if I want a really loose fill something that you'll be able to see the fabrics showing through I am going to change that number from 0.4 to one point two millimeters now it's almost in reverse of what people think because people think well if I went to point two that's a smaller number but point two is actually adding more density because the space gets closer together the higher the number the further the spacing apart goal is and the less density you have in a design so I'm going to actually take this to one point two millimeters so I've changed that spacing on the setting to one point two now as soon as I hit the enter button watch what happens to the fill you can see how it just got looser now there's other properties and the properties are always on the tabs along the top there's other properties that I can control I can see that the lines in your stitching right now has almost like a crosshatch that's because there's underlay stitching underlay is the foundation of stitches and it holds the stitches in place but I don't want underlay stitches on something that I can see through this is very low density so I'm going to turn those off so I'm gonna go to the stitching tab on the top of the properties and when I left click on that the menu will change and it says underlay one and two and if I uncheck underlay one it'll automatically uncheck the rest and if you look at the design now you can see that we have nice clean lines and if I go back over to my fill effect you're gonna see that as soon as I turn the underlay off this little box here called travel on edge is now checked now travel on edge is almost like what they call trapunto it is a stitch that doesn't have any underlay running through the center of it and trapunto could be used as a knockdown stitch on terry cloth if you want to have something kind of sink in and rise you know trapunto effects commercially so it's a really cool stitch that you can learn to play with but this will give me a very unique effect now if i have those two highlighted now now what i can do is i can take those two and just simply left click and hold and i'm going to drag them up in the sequence view and when I drag them up you're gonna see now that the red is running first the green is second and the blue which we will change to black actually I could do it now if I want is now lost and if I turn off my true view or sorry not my true view if I turn off my artwork which is the D key and I turn on my true view I can see that I have a very loose fill density design now keep in mind all of the stitch directions of that fill are going the same direction right now it's like a 15 degree angle and you can move those directions individually if you want now remember I gave you John's favorite hatch hotkey list and this is where traveling and editing through designs I'm going to show you this quick way to change stitch angles and I'm going to go to my object list right now I'm in colors on my sequence I'm going to go to the object list and I can see if I turn off my true view there I just have my stitches if I click on the first object that's highlighted now there is a hotkey to edit the objects and I showed you this earlier it is the H key and if I hit the H key it just gave me all of my points in my nodes so you can actually move the nodes you can change them from straight to curved like I showed you but there and I can change the start and stop position of that fill if I want to with the little green X's and the you know you can see the sorry the green diamonds and the red X's so green a start red is stock but there's also a little line here and the line actually has an orange little square handle at each end and when you hover over it it says angle and it says 15 degree angle if I want to change the angle of that one fill I can move it to 46 degrees and you're going to see the angle of the fill change I can change it to whatever angle I want if I want to change the angle of the next fill which is the next little leaf here in the order I just have to hit the tab button and now I can change the angle of that fill again I have to find the little angle icon it has to come up and then I can move the angles of that one to 130 then I can actually get the next angle change that one get the next angle change this one get the next angle change this one right here I can change all the angles of my fill if you can't see the angles very well I can zoom in and now I can see it a little better but I can change all the angles of my fills so that when I go to true view I now have a little bit of detail because you have to remember that embroidery thread interacts with light and when light hits it it actually creates different use of codes even though you have the same color thread you get different colors of angles and that's the exciting part about embroidery so we have just created a really simple little design it's a very low stitch count this actually has five thousand nine hundred and forty-four stitches in it right now that for a you know three and a half inch design is not much at all and it will give us a nice clean you know kind of rustic look with the fabric showing through so you're going to want to save this one I want to go in right now and I want to save this design let's go to file and save design as and I'm going to save this one as underscore two and that way I know that I have a master done and that way if I ever want to edit this design I can take it and resize it and it's going to edit perfectly because it's an object-based file if you want to run it on your machine then it's not save as its export design so I want to go to file and then export design and then you can choose whatever flavor you want and you can actually save that to your USB put it into your machine and you're ready to go and distill your sample so this was a cool lesson the next one is going to be just as cool actually even more cool we're gonna try a different stitch type we're gonna get a little bit more artistic on it hope you're having fun and we'll catch you at the next thanks for watching and I hope you're enjoying your free hats embroidery trial please take a second to subscribe to our YouTube channel and stay up-to-date with future embroidery tips tricks and tutorials now as an official hatch reseller please keep in mind that if you decide to purchase Hach you want to make sure you do through us to receive a ton of exclusive bonuses these bonuses include extra fonts designs education and support click the attached link in the description to learn more about the amazing bonuses we have to offer [Music] you

Channel: John Deer's Embroidery Legacy

Views: 17,093

Keywords: hatch embroidery, embroidery digitizing, embroidery legacy, digitizing embroidery tutorial, embroidery for beginners, wilcom hatch, learn embroidery digitizing, how to digitize, hatch embroidery software, hatch embroidery tutorials, learn hatch, digitizing made easy, beginner hatch embroidery, digitizing embroidery

Id: 5BXmlb2WYyc

Length: 34min 36sec (2076 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 05 2020