HOUSE OF KOLOR MARBLIZING BY JON KOSMOSKI

welcome to the art of marbleizing here's our subject vehicle as you can see the gray pieces in the front are made of a flexible plastic and our primed with a different style of primer designed primarily for that substrate we used the kp2 zinc chromate epoxy primer on the entire vehicle of course we stripped off all the existing paint that was on the the car and we did the proper body work that was needed to bring the car to a a number one condition everything now has been sanded with the 400 grit wet and we're ready to do our final wipe down and begin our seal coats very soon the subject vehicle is a 1981 Buick Regal with actually a very low mileage car 30,000 actual miles and so we figured it was an excellent subject for our two-tone marbleizing and Candy finish you're going to see this process taken from the beginning right through the final buffing procedures as we walk through this job now again you'll notice the gray at the rear uh this again is a plastic piece that we primered with a special plastic we do not recommend the ep2 or the kp2 on the very flexible Plastics here Denny is doing the final wipe down make sure that the chemicals that you're using are designed for final wash they generally say we do not recommend the use of tar wax and grease removers at this stage you notice he's doing small areas so that it stays wet while he's doing his wipe down now we followed with a tack plot and we've tacked everything first with an air gun making sure to tack all all the paper uh and everything cuz every piece of that vehicle can contain some dirt now we're applying the seal coat we're using the co seal which is a universal acrylic sealer uh and it is an excellent sealer it's got varieties which prevents penetration although with a two-part primer this is really not a danger the main reason we're doing this is we want the dark gray look because our base coat is going to be black for the marblizer uh we're using a 50% pattern overlap we're getting the entire vehicle well covered as you can see we're getting full coverage in one coat the nice thing about the co seal is we don't thin it we allow you to one qu of Co seal will make 2 and 1/2 quarts of sprayable Sealing it's an excellent bargain and we get many favorable comments on this product this is one of our methods of using and doing the door jams at the same time we paint the car uh we are going to marelize everything we're going to do the door jams the mirrors everything involved now notice how we draw the Invisible straight lines as we're applying the sealer and not let the vehicle's edges or any of these sculpturing of the metal try to trick us we use the invisible graphing in our eyes and we put on the 50% pattern overlap as we move across the hood when we get to the other side of the hood uh we'll lift it again so that we can get inside and do these edging areas this is critical stuff and it's so much easier to do it now rather than to do the mask off uh later which becomes real Troublesome If This Were a Super Show vehicle of course we may have a different attitude we're doing a street driven car here and it may see a show or two for fun but now notice how the application is a 50% see the groove on the hood how we pay no attention to This Groove we don't let ourselves get tricked up into following that sculpturing we cross over it when the time is right all right now our next move is to uh mix and apply the pbc1 100 which is our black Sparkle Pearl base coat for the marbleizing this is a reduced 50% so to two quarts we add one qu of reducer so let's open the two quarts make sure that they're well stirred we had them on the Shaker prior to this to make sure that they were well mixed but one way to be sure you're getting everything that you paid for is to pour the cart cans into a mixing vial and then add your reducer to the empty cans and stir the reducer in there to make sure you're getting every drop of the products that you paid for so we'll add reducer to the can that it's two quarts to one cord of reducer put it up to the appropriate level then go ahead and stir the the reducer in the can to make sure we're getting all all the Pearl that might be stuck in the corners of the can off and then transfer this reducer to the other can so that we're again taking advantage of the reducer to clean our can out for us which by the way and with today's pollution laws it's very important that these cans do be flushed before they're put into the garbage all right now we add our reducer whoops we're running out of can room here transfer this to a larger container all right add the rest of our reducer stir this together now it's not a bad idea to save these cans in case we have lift leftover material because it's not catalyzed we will be able to make use of storing any leftover product now we've got oursel about three quarts mixed here which should be enough to get around the vehicle uh a couple of times now we may need that third court and if we do we'll come out and mix it at that time all right we'll get our mask on and get our tack Rag and it's a good idea to tack coat your sealer application make sure that the tack rag is fully open so you're not transferring any glue or if you're using the new static free tack Rags they're used as they come out of the bag so that's our next move let's go do it here we are using a tack cloth to do the final lint removal if you should see lint that's embedded in the sealer it's comfortable to go in with a little five or even 600 and lightly remove that lint before we begin our painting here we are applying the PBC 100 which covers excellent as we showed you it's thinned 50% I'm using an HVLP gravity feed gun here at House of Color we have many spray guns and we are constantly testing new paint guns to find out which ones work the best with our products if you have a question about a spray gun don't hesitate to call our technical line we can generally tell you what nozzle and needle combination are required with various spray guns and we do appreciate the gun manufacturers who work with us uh with the custom painting field this happens to be a SATA gun it's an HVLP it's a 92 uh the make of the gun it works excellent by the way don't be afraid most every gun works with our products gun adjustments are more critical than most people think and we can help you along those lines particularly if you're painting motorcycle parts or smaller parts uh here we're doing the the routine of getting all of the jams covered with the base coat before we begin our walk down the sides Etc so we keep that overspray to a minimum during the seal coat application it may not be as critical but do get down there and take a look underneath the doors with a creeper and we're not showing that in this video but it is important to get down there on the floor with a flashlight and make sure that you've got the coverage that's required particularly in the Rockers the wheel openings and the lower areas of the door particularly when paint judging is done where do the judges look they look for the hardest places to paint and so if you really want to keep your quality up you have to get involved and get down in these areas and make sure that you're getting the coverage we'll get our two to three coats of the PBC 100 applied and then we go into the fun part of applying the marblizer on this car always make sure to make a pass across the front edges because remember the paint will not turn the corner uh we as painters have to make sure that we're getting the coverage that we need in the areas uh try to maintain a parallel with your airap as close as humanly possible so that you get the coat on as evenly as can be try not to rub against the vehicle of course so you need that Long Reach on certain Vehicles you do need something to stand on or a ramp to get you up into these high areas again I'm making the pass across the back make sure you get the coverage in those hard to find and hard to cover areas where the hood is done uh we'll make sure we've got everything and then we begin our walk down the side now notice on this pass as the front fender tapers we don't go all the way up to the front front fender we stop now the next pass back we will go all the way to the edge of the front fender because using our straight line graph thinking in our mind this is what it takes that front fender tapers now we're maintaining Perfection here the idea is during all of the coating applications is to do it with some love and some care so many painters I've talked to they put on the primer like it means nothing if the primer is app applied properly you have less sanding work to do it's not that it's going to be sanded but why not strain it and treat it like like a coating that it is and put it on as good as we know how now remember when half the spray goes into the Wheelhouse that's our signal to complete the back of the quarter panel The Wheelhouse and then do the center of the two wheel openings and again remember to get down low double check yourself to make sure that you're getting the coverage we hear from painters all the time that get the cars outside the the booth uh and find out that they have not gotten proper coverage in certain areas not that it can't be touched up but who needs the headache or the heartache if it just takes a few more minutes now look at the hose around my feet one of the biggest management problems you have when you walk the length of a car is making sure you're not going to trip up in that hose or if you're using a pressure pot stand on the hose which can cut off the eror and make that pressure pot turn into a squirt gun and this can be real problematic when you're trying to do high quality again try to maintain that parallel with the air cap and it means getting down on your knees many times uh as you saw Denny do during the application of the sealer don't be afraid to get down there and get get dirty and get the job done right as you witnessed we just completed applying two coats of the PBC 100 black Sparkle Pearl as you read on the label it does call for three coats but this particular color covers so well the third coat did not seem necessary we've got full coverage we got a creeper and brought it into the booth and laid down and checked our rocker panels and our wheelhouses and all of the lower areas to make sure that we had good coverage now comes the fun we've let that base coat dry for 15 to 20 minutes to make sure it's thoroughly cured now we're going in with our marblizer now the marblizer is not reduced do not add anything to it it will not take it the only thing we would ever recommend adding to the marbleizing would be the mini or the Ultra Mini flakes which does add a nice Flash and it's something for you to fool with and give it a go all right now we just simply mix stir well to make sure that the Pearl which is an encapsulated European style of pearl is well mixed and then we strain into our paint gun and we get ready with the Saran Wrap which can commonly be used uh or in in other cases we just use car cover material the thin film seems to work the best because it's more staticky and it clings better and it gives better patterns as you'll see when we begin what we're going to do here now is we're going to apply one medium coat with a 50% pattern overlap very much like we painted everything else I'm using a siphon feed gun here in this case now how much time do we have once the marblizer has been applied generally speaking it's about 1 minute so after you've gotten your coat on from one minute from the beginning coat you want to be have your assistance ready with the wrap now also car cover material Works excellent for this what we're using is is 18in pieces uh which Saran Wrap is not available in but just make sure that the millage is thin because the plastic has a normal uh tendency to want to go on there uneven because that's just the way plastic is notice how it lays on here uh this well this way I'm sorry this is a 36in sheet that we're using and uh so it's very thin film cut small pieces for the small areas uh then we get them all in place and you must rub it in with a firm hand so we just take and wipe it down every place that we've applied the marblizer uh to make sure that we're getting good contact and then you immediately remove it I mean you can wait longer obviously if you wish but I wouldn't wait very long to get it removed now we Pat it down as you'll see they're getting the other pieces cut for the other side this is so much fun and easy to do and the effects are totally amazing it looks like you worked and worked and worked some people call this technique bowling ball um it's been called uh many other things and by the way there are other effects that can be done with this marbleized material we've used sponges uh you can use wrinkled up tin foil but nothing seems to work as well as the foil this particular wrap the Saran Wrap or the or the freezer wrap as it's sometime called uh for making the marble look effect I mean it's just really neat looking it gives the finish a depth uh like you'll see as we get going okay now it's on so all we do is rub it down and it must be rubbed everywhere so you can see my hand contact uh we push it down and and we're going to do the door jams and everything on this job it's very simple it takes only a matter of minutes we'll complete the marbleizing effect on this whole car in less than 30 minutes but the effects are amazing now you can take and blot certain areas if you see that the marballizer is a little thick be careful don't use a lot of pressure on the blotting because many times it'll pick up more than you want it's always best to come in and make a couple of hits lighter ones to make sure that you're getting the look now see how simple once this has been pressed down we just grab a hold of the two sheets and simply yank them off everything has been wiped down and so the effect is there now don't plan to reuse any of this it's junk once it's been used on one side uh simply throw it away and begin again now this is our effect on the sail area uh we're going to use another color marblizer because we're putting a candy color over this whole job it's extremely important that we get enough brightness in other words if I were to put candy color over this particular blue uh this is a two-tone marblizer actually the the pink blue combination it would tend to go away a little bit and I think we'd lose some of of the depth but by finishing out with a silver marblizer over the top of the blue it'll give us that the effect on the lightness that we want as you'll see when we begin applying the candies but first we have to let this particular marblizer when it's all done it should sit for at least 30 minutes in a 70° shop before you begin the second marblizer now they can be reflowed uh so if you get something you don't like it can be hit again and blotted again with the wrap and the the job looks fine and don't worry about blending in adjacent panels as you'll see when we get into this that's no problem at all now we're cutting enough extra here so it runs down over the deck lid so we keep the pattern concentric throughout the job now we're minimizing the overspray onto the side of the vehicle as you can see but a little bit overspray on there as I said is not a problem so don't be concerned about it so we get all the the the wrap out there again very simply before we do any wipe down but it you don't just lie it on you must put a hand to it and you must rub it in as you'll see we're rubbing it in see the hand contact Don't Be Afraid get it in there just rub it down uh it's so so easy to do uh and because you can see how it wrinkles up and it gives us some amazing designs and it's so simple now we catch all the minor little areas back here with the wrap we're doing the uh the plastic parts the flexible plastic parts as well and now it's done we pull it off and our design as you will see it it happens magically before our eyes and it does look very marble likee now there are other methods you can do to make it become more marble like by uh taking a feather and dipping it into some of the coat and dragging that along as well there's many techniques to make it look more like the real thing but we're doing this just in the simplest of ways and now we're doing the hood so we start at the top we do the trunk then we do the hood now notice the size of my pattern and how fast I'm moving through the area I'm not putting a lot on you really don't need to do you know that we did this whole car with a quart of marbleize of each of the colors so the distance that this stuff goes is totally amazing you will get areas that the material gets a little heavy and remember you can just take any of this and ball it up and get back on these areas where you where you see that the marblizer is a little bit thick isn't that amazing how fast and easy it is and the intricate designs that you get and I know it looks rather rough but three coats of clear and it Smooths it right out it's not at all as rough as it looks when it dries down the actual film applied is extremely small now I see some heavy areas I'm going in and just blotting to catch some of the heavy areas of paint and just doing a light one now we're going down the side again same routine we go for the walk just like we do when we're applying all of our materials that keeps the millage even do you know that every time the gun stops and starts the millage increases and we do see that problem when painters sometimes stop at the doors and stop at the quarter panels where you see the darker edges there and that's caused by stopping you just can't you must go for that long walk all right now we're pulling out the full lengths going up into the sail area so that we get a good match up in there that's a critical part where the colors meet I think you're getting the gist of this it's not hard at all it's a lot of fun and it's totally amazing how the how how rich the vehicle looks when it's done in this material make the adjustments don't worry about it I mean if it's not exactly right just make sure you get all the areas covered the most important mistake uh that you could make is not getting it laid in one area because then it's just going to look rather dull because it's a it's just a pearl L over there without the markings that add the richness as soon as you're sure you've rubbed on now notice how it moves around don't worry about that that's part of it you know just a firm hand contact get it wiped in this is the name of how this game works and we did the wheel wells notice Denny's getting inside there to make sure those wheel wells are well covered uh we're doing the entire vehicle inside and out and that's just the way it is I think it's the way it should be and the main reason we tackled this project is to show you how simple something like this is now we do have the chemist in there he helped he's the developmental CH chemist on this product and uh isn't that fun look at the activity going on in this paint job now way do you see it with the second color on because by using two marblizer and using the pink candy that's what we're going to put over this combination wherever the pink candy picks up on the blue it turns purple and wherever the pink candy hits the silver marblizer it turns into a beautiful magenta shade and so this car is going to be unbelievable when you see it completed so now we have a wait we've got to let this baby sit now and harden up so that we can go to the next marbleize basically I think a painter and one man could get the job done Put the gun down quickly I think you noticed we waited almost no time uh for the marblizer to set up on smaller parts motorcycles and things like that your weight may be like 1 minute on a on a watch before you lay your wrap down all right we've done the uh the pink blue marblizer the mb4 was our first one down now we're going to go back over it with the mb1 the silver white uh for more impact because we're going to finish this job off with a candy color and so we need that extra brightness to bring the color up to the customer's Choice okay basically it's the same routine only now we're applying the the silver white marblizer over the top of the blue the guys are ready we'll get to the other side they'll start putting the material on as I said on a large vehicle you don't have to wait the full minute and we're getting good uh detail but of course our shop is a good 72° at this point and that's critical as I mentioned at the bench sometimes the weight is 15 to 20 minutes but I really think that sometimes 30 and if your shop is cool it could even be longer the weight between coats and you'll tell by touching the film that you've sprayed on the mar izer or whether or not it's ready for your top coats and we're going to talk about the top coat application because this particular material lacquer will stick to it immediately with little or no problems but if we're applying a urethane candy or a urethane clear to a marblizer it's extremely important to apply one coat of adhesion promoter uh or the sg100 that we make which is an intercode clear otherwise the there is a very good good chance that the clear or the candy will not properly adhere to the marblizer so this is a critical part of marbleizing and we'll cover this again because we've already had the calls of people who have had their clear come off after they've applied it over the marblizer because they didn't read the label instructions where it says to use an sg100 well when those labels were done we didn't have the apo1 adhesion promoter and the adhesion promoter I like because it's very fast you put one medium coat of apo1 adhesion Promoter on and you can begin top Coating in 5 minutes if you want you may also use the sg100 now that works particularly well if you're going to do additional artwork to this job like you're going to do some tape outs or whatever the apo1 works for Speed going immediately over this whereas the sg100 in code clear would allow you to do some artwork additional tape outs over this job and at the same time give you that adhesion that you need for your following top coats also gives you a little room to sand if you need to scuff something maybe you're not going to complete this job in one day like we did uh we literally did this entire job in 4 hours once we started with the sealer uh and went through to the two marbleizing techniques and applied the candies and the the first clear coats of course that doesn't mean that we didn't come back in color sand as we'll show you and Reflow the following day to get the roughness out the little bit of roughness that does take place when you apply the marblizer but it's nothing like a flake job or something like that it's extremely easy to do again we're running the length because that's the way we want our design to run whichever way you lay the the wrap is the way your design is going to run now don't be afraid to get in there and rub hard you can rub down hard uh you notice they're footing a little bit sometimes the way they're rubbing down but it's just depends on your design that's why we call this an artistic base coat because how you do things is going to affect the final look now look at how dramatic this is getting with the two colors I mean it's totally amazing uh it's going to be absolutely wild when we start going to the candy colors because this is all going to be buried over a transparent tinted candy color that's going to give us the look that we want now we're up on the hood completing the hood again you can be rather casual about the application of the marblizer it's not difficult to apply uh again I'm just taking it you know fast as you can see putting it on with a 50% pattern overlap with a large pattern now this stuff is not a hazardous material in so much as a normal TC 23 respirator Works excellent cuz this is only uh this material is just like very much like a lacquer in its behavior and spraying techniques even though it's not uh it doesn't have a catalyst in it so there's no extreme dangers involved of spraying it just a normal charcoal respirator works fine whereas the candies the way we're going with the urethane it's going to require uh excellent ventilation and the proper respirator normally a Air Supply respirator for isocyanates there again our design uh we've got a few little areas we're going to go back and mop just to touch them a little bit where the material is a little heavy again that's the you can use the bald up material that youve removed for that all right our last walk for the marbleizing part of it again I'm rather casual just get it on there don't want it super heavy watch your hose notice the hose almost hit the side of the car there those are things you've always got to have good hose control very important all right laying on our final rubbing it in like we've been doing right along catching all the edges the grooves and go up over into the hood area where we've got a little bit on the hood you cannot tell where we Blended from the hood into the sides or into the sail area absolutely no way there's so much pattern and design going on that it Blends right in all right we've completed the two-tone marblizer as you saw in the booth it does take a couple of extra people I really think if a man is working quickly with one good man you could do it with yourself by hanging your gun and getting involved get the widest uh food wrap that you can buy or use the thin film as we mentioned earlier uh on the car maskers those real long super wide ones would work excellent now always do a spray out of the final finish and get customer approval we've gone over this we used a a light base on one and a darker base on the other and by reversing using the white marblizer last radically changes the color as you can see the much lighter color whereas if we use the blue marblizer last it's going to be darker now in order to get this effect we use the uk18 which is an acrylic urethane candy coat uh we're going to rich in that slightly by using a little of the candy concentrate because it takes it off the pink shade by riching it and it makes it into a blue shade rubine or a red shade and so by doing that the idea here now is you cannot apply a urethane directly over a marblizer because it will not stick now we have two methods to correct that problem we can use either the adher to the the apo1 which is applied with a medium coat and it has about a 5 minute weight before you begin your top coat the other option is using the shimmerin uh which is our our inter coat clear the sg1 100 you mix that with a 50% reduction and apply one medium coat but then you have to wait there's at least a 15 to 20 minute wait before you begin your top coats do not allow that long a wait if you're using the adher to make sure that your candy is mixed first it's strained into the gun and you're ready to go now we have dedicated a gun specifically for the adhesion uh promoter and we're going to use that and we're going to be ready to go the minute we apply that adhesion promoter we set the gun down we're going to pick up our candy paint gun and we're going to go to work now remember the first coats of candy are a applied in in the very light mode in other words we reduce the gunun the gun's control knob down we turn that in so that we are getting about a 4 to 5 in pattern four to 5 in from the end of the gun and we use a 75% pattern overlap so that we're overlapping extra to eliminate any chance of streaking but one of the great things about this marblizer is that an amateur can apply this candy over that base because it's so forgiving because the base itself is a radical coloration change if you do make a mistake it's certainly not going to show so it's an excellent beginning for an amateur to start to pick up the custom painting world you just want a misted coat with the gun held close in order to get that adhesion technique it almost acts like a glue because it bonds this is going to become one paint job now again as we said with artwork you could use the sg100 the weight would be longer and that may not be a problem for some of you you know maybe you're planning to do some other tape outs maybe you're going to Flame the vehicle now maybe you're going to scallop it or maybe you're going to do some graphics on the side whatever in those instances you would use the sg100 not the adhesion promoter this vehicle is going to be one complete color now I'm able to get all of this on in a matter of minutes as you can see we walk this sides again same technique that we've been using throughout this job and if you're a commercial painter and you're not walk on the sides of a vehicle that you paint you need to give it a try because it is the way that it's done the best way okay here comes the most exciting part and probably the most difficult part of this entire job and that's getting the candy coats on evenly we use a 75% pattern overlap on on the beginning coats of candy the reason for doing this is it tends to eliminate any chances of streaking or modeling you notice the gun distance we're keeping the gun fairly close we're doing our edging I like to go down to the quarter panel on the sail area and that's where I stop catching all those areas at the roof line as I go by to get all that behind me now I'll go immediately of course I do the edges and I'll go immediately to the other half of the roof and do my cut in at the front it's required then again picking up at the center now one of the mistakes that painters tend to make sometimes on the candy is they do too fat and overlap where one side meets the other and you can get a dark stripe so concentrate on that so that you don't get that pattern overlap try to use the straight line thinking so that everything goes on as even as possible now the fact that we've richen this candy a little bit is giving us a little stronger color on the first coats many times candies will come in a little slower but because you've done one candy color understand that pigments change some are much more difficult colors to work with than others the candy pink happens to be a very nice color to work with now we're starting again at the outside of the deck lid moving towards the center of the deck lid and as we round the back of the vehicle we'll complete those areas like we say economy of motion let's get all these areas done that we need to do while we're going by finishing the back the whole entire back of the deck lid catching all the 45s and angles that we know need attention around the license plate area all of these things getting those completed behind the license plate stuff that needs it now we'll go back immediately to the other side look at how this design jumps out when you start hitting it with the candy colors many times I would go immediately to the deck lid but uh I decided uh on this particular coat to do the hood as I was going by as well now I'm using a siphon feed uh regular paint gun here this is an MBC with a with an 80 air cap if you're in an HVLP area where it's required there are many many good guns to get the job done for you and they're improving on a on a monthly basis we're seeing many improvements in these hlps they're starting to work really well look at how this color comes on again we're disregarding the body lines but we are running that tight pattern overlap if you'll notice each increment of overlap is approximately 2 in with a 6in pattern that gives us our 75% pattern overlap so as you can see it takes many passes to just get off the half a hood but this is critical because by doing that now you notice I catch the upper Parts I go back to the deck complete the deck on the other side and then we're ready immediately to go into our walk down the side catch the 45s like I'm doing now now the walk one thing you'll find with candy painting is that you will get more paint on the upper areas than you will on the sides you notice I move in a little bit closer on the side to try and help compensate for some of that uh it's it's a natural thing because the overspray on the sides Falls away the overspray on the top parts of the vehicle melts in so many times when you take a mill gauge and do your readings you'll find that you have a little more paint on those upper areas so I concentrate on the sides uh a little bit harder and move in a little closer to get all those areas now we complete between the Wheelhouse keep that angle of the air cap as close as possible uh when you now notice I'm hitting the brake edge here right now so it's important that I angle the gun up a little more because the panels angle down don't be afraid to get down there now we don't show that in this video but I did get down there with we usually keep a creeper in the front of the booth so it can be moved from side to side so you can get down there with a powerful flashlight and check to make sure you're getting the edges properly done all right so now we go to the other side go for our walk on the other side and then you need to use the touch test it's very important that you don't put a wet coat directly back on a wet coat because in doing that whether it's base coat or marblizer or candy you will trap solvents and trap solvents can cause dryback later on the job can give you lots of problems in fact when you get to the catalyze side it can cause runs we tell painters if you wait until the paint job is sticky and not stringing up on your finger at the wetest point that it's almost impossible to put a run in something because then the paint has something to bond to and it's not over wet if you pull up on your finger and it's stringing that signals to you that the paint is still flowing and no smart painter puts a coat on something that's still flowing usually from the time it strings up until the time it doesn't string is never more than 3 to 5 minutes now this is again in a 70° spray booth so if your temperatures are cooler you're obviously causing a retarding effect just based on the weather or your temperature so you're going to require more dry time now get down on those rockers man you can't spend too much time on those lower areas making sure that they're properly applied you'll notice we wet the floor down on the two part whenever you're putting a catalyst in something it stays wet one heck of a lot longer look at this design you see how it's picking up the purple look where it hits the blue marblizer and it looks sort of magenta colored where it's hitting the um the other marblizer the silver now you can I'm I'm finding that I can move almost immediately into my second coat which I'm doing and we will put a total of four or five coats of the candy on this job in order to get the depth and the look that we want so it's a matter of just doing the same things over and over again uh and that would that's what turns into an excellent super nice paint JB so again uh we don't need to show you painting each and every coat this is our second coat now we're slowing down a little bit you can even see we're moving in a little bit closer with the gun uh we're wetting it out we're being careful on our overlaps the center of the hood the center of the deck and the center of the roof is as I mentioned earlier you have to be careful we've gone ahead and completed our five coats of the candy pink using a little of the candy concentrate to get the color up as you can see the car is beginning to look very purple with highlights of pink coming from here and there and highlights of a blue shade purple it's a beautiful combination over the two colors of marblizer that we used now we're ready for our clear coats and we need to get a couple good coats of clear on there and so we're not going to over reduce our clear we're going to use the uc1 up clear it it dries quickly it's not the least bit rubbery for color sanding the next day it's the clear we want to use for buildup in order to get it to cure out so that we can go in and now tomorrow before we do any sanding at all we're going to do the door jams we're going to complete the door jams in the same way only we're going to use intensifier uh which is a way to get the same color that we've taken five coats to do here we'll be able to match those door jams in two coats and we're going to show you how to do that tomorrow but let's get the clearer on now and the ratio is exactly the same as the candy 211 two parts of the clear to one part of catalyst to one part reducer all right before we color sound the car we said yesterday that we were going to go ahead and do the door jam so we've masked off to eliminate any excessive amount of overspray around the vehicle when we're doing our door jams so that's the next step we're going to go in and two-tone marbleize the door jams here we go marbleizing under the trunk you can see we're masked off for all the edging as well trunks are difficult because they have a lot of convoluted edges that are hard to get the materials into but it works and it works fine you'll see we're just doing the upper deck first before we do the the side rails that's asking for too much because there's a lot of difficult placement for the Saran Wrap in this area we pulled a bunch of the film so we're ready to get it to stay we just kind of hang it over the top of the lid and then just start forcing it in rubbing it in all the areas making sure we overlap overlaps don't show don't be afraid to overlap the other the other piece obviously it doesn't want to stay there so they are difficult the ideal way to do it of course would be to take the deck lid off and lay it upside down on something if you were doing a show vehicle notice the runs in the marblizer from the application not to worry doesn't mean a thing all right we're sure everything is rubbed down pull it off and it's done of course we've got another color left to do before we do the candy coats but we just do this to show you that it can be done in some of the most obscure places and go in with your your dabbing where you see excesses where we might have had a run or whatever you just dab that excess out but the effect is there and it's everywhere and we do this same technique throughout the door jams under the doors we want to make sure we've got it all we do as best we can in the forward part of the doors we've completed our marbleizing our two-tone marbleizing in the door jams this vehicle is a street driven vehicle and so we want an economical way in order to get the candy color in the jams without creating undue overspray that might travel to the other parts of the car we haven't color sanded the outer parts yet so what's our way of doing that we use the sg100 which is the in coat clear and we reduce that 100% with the ru 310 because our temperature in the shop is 70° or below just slightly below and by using the intensifier in the same candy color we use the uk18 on the outside of the car we're going to use the kk1 18 to tint this clear we're going to show you how to do it now using a touch touchup gun I'm using a Binks 15 here with an SK airc cap got the wide pattern I'm able to match in two or three coats of a base coat clear mixed with the tint that we did I'm able to match the outside color the beauty of this is all I've got to do is clear coat it with a catalyzed clear and I've got the durability and I've done it without worry of overspray uh without the normal problems that are involved by using if I use the regular catalyze material all right we soak a clean Rag and we've got our sandpaper the number one thing that you must remember when your color sand a candy job or any vehicle for that matter is you never sand directly on the peaks of the body always come up to a Peak from one side or the other side and then we check ourselves with a rubber squeegee by squeegeeing the water out of the way you can tell if you've sanded it flat the goal here is to sand this vehicle completely flat and knock all of the shine that means all the little dirt nibs that got in during the paint job will be knocked out of there alternate your sanding pattern somewhat too from side to side and back and forth Etc and also they make a sanding pad for wrapping the paper in and keep the paper well lubricated uh you know and put a little pressure on it but also look for colored water if you start seeing color in the water that tells us that we have broken through the clear somewhere and you need to worry about that so all we want to do is kind of sand these two coats of clear that we've applied enough to smooth this job out to the point that we can come back in and reclear it and we don't want to sand through on the edges so please be particularly careful not to sand on a peak not to cross an opening we come up to an opening from one side then come up to the opening from Another Side uh these are critical things you could ruin everything that we've done at this stage if we're not careful we completed our wet sanding on the vehicle with the 500 grit paper we've gone over it with plain water and wiped it down we've aired it and carefully made sure that we got all the water out of all the cracks we wiped out the door jams under the hood uh we've closed everything up now we're going to we've aired and tacked everything we're going to go back in again with the final tack before we begin our clear cods but what we're going to do is we're going to change the products that we're using for our final clear we're going to use the ufc1 which is a polyurethane clear it's got a higher gloss it's very easy to buff it Buffs just like butter it uses a totally different Catalyst than the other products we've used we used the KU 500 Catalyst the mixing ratio is the same 211 so it's two parts of the clearer one part of the Catalyst and one part of the reducer again our shop conditions are about 70° so we'll be using the ru 310 fast dry reducer idea on the flow coats to add extra reducer per mixed qut generally in the 3 to 6 ounce range improves improves the flow and really does give you that glass-like finish obviously the only thing left after this uh applying the three coats of this material is going to to be the Polish and we'll get into that when the vehicle is assembled let's get into our suit and go in do our final Tack and put on the this is the most fun part of the job I think when you've got all the hard work behind you and now we get to do those beautiful flow coats all right let's go you can see we've color sanded the entire car we've wiped it down carefully with water I do not recommend the use of chemical washes at this stage there should be no need if you've kept your fingers and hands off the be now we carefully tack all the areas to remove any lint it's a good idea to remask the car which you see that we've done in some areas some areas are too difficult to get into remask but the problem is you get a lot of overspray that gets out on that paper and causes you problems on The Recoil we want the cleanest possible application of the clear here so by carefully going over it first with an air gun now we put on a medium wet coat the first coat on a dry substrate should not be your wetest coat by any stretch because the paint needs something to bond to and so our first coat goes on what I call medium to wet you can see that I'm wetting it but I'm not over wetting it you can see that the gun has been choked up the material knob is in considerably and this is critical because this is where a lot of painters make mistakes on the reflows they go in too wet and the jobs move the paint moves it doesn't have anything to bond to so many times this coat is referred to as the bond coat you notice I'm using a 50% pattern overlap which is correct for applying the clear now I will move the material knob out after this first coat sets up for approximately 5 to 8 minutes now there is a lot more forgiving window on the ufc1 flow clear than there is on the uc1 because it stays open much longer so even if the coats got a little longer between it would not be a major problem like it is on the uc1 or the UK candies again using the proper pattern overlap we try to just wet the first coat without over wetting and that's a critical Factor you we don't want to over wet the first coat but you can see the gloss that comes up immediately and how we've got our design back many people think once you sand that clear that you've lost everything but the minute the new clear coats hit it the gloss and the depth and the quality is back this particular clear has a extremely high unrubbed gloss of 95 it's about as high as you can get plus it's got a nice medium high solids and it Buffs like nothing you've seen even after it the jobs sit for months they still buff well notice we've diapered the gun cup with a tack rag to eliminate any chance of a gun drip at this stage of the gun we do recommend it throughout the job on siphon feed guns using economy of motion we're getting down here and getting the clear where we need it again we walk the sides as always the way we've done everything throughout this job 50% pattern overlap straight line thinking taking our short walk I may be taking a larger increment than 50% in some cases on the bond cat I may do that but I don't think I'm much over that if you watch those gun movements between coats they are Precision using the overgrip to get those lower panels now we go outside the booth set our timer don't mix more than a gallon of paint at a time time well we've completed our clear coats and this job is one glossy piece you can see that all of our design work has come back the marbleizing effect is Alive and Well the entire car has an extreme gloss to it but we're not through yet after the vehicle goes together we intend to color sand the vehicle with 12200 git paper again res smoothing it as as close as possible and then coming in with the polishing equipment either the 3M or the Maguire proper compounds and foam pads and it will have an extremely high gloss with very little or no Rippling or dirt nibs well here's the vehicle in the utter shop we've gone ahead and color sanded it completely with 12200 and went over it with the 1500 grid so now it's ready for a final polish we are careful not to sand right up to the edges or any areas that are difficult to get through with a polisher we highly recommend the use of a 1500 RPM polisher because it generates heat without slinging compound and that's what brings the shine back but I think you'll see how fast the Shine Comes Back when we start with our rubbing compound now we go over it first with a wool pad and the abrasive compound regular fast cut compound 1500 RPM just taking it rather slow let the compound do the work change our Direction periodically with the machine so that we don't get some set pattern in our buffing now you'll notice as the compound starts to deplete but our shine is coming back only this time it's Perfection because of the fact that we've taken all of the dirt nibs out we flattened all the rough spots with our color sanding process now you see how slow you move the machine that's required in order to get the shine back on a polishing of a urethane finish a certain amount of heat must be generated that's why we're not trying to do a large area we're quartering off sections of a half of a hood so that we can stay and for example the maximum I like to see is like a 2 square ft area so that you can work the metal in order to get the heat generated so that the Shine Comes Back look at that shine it comes right back you've got to figure about six or seven or eight hours for a color sand and polish so that has to be included in the price if the customer wants that degree of perfection now we will again go over this uh with one more compound a lighter Duty compound with a foam pad I really like the Maguire's foam pads uh they're excellent pads for this type of work they do make a couple of different grit pads they make one that cuts very well and they make one that's for finer applications for doing your final glazing and so it's staging you know you will go over the car approximately three times this is the cutting foam pad the pink one in color again we're using a different grade of compound you know you're managing scratch patterns is what we're doing we're taking it from a coarse pattern a 1500 grit pattern down and managing these scratches down to practically nothing and we just continue throughout the whole job it's a good idea if you have auxiliary lighting particularly when you're buffing the side of the car to make sure that you're getting all the scratches out from the color sanding and make sure you're using a good grade of sandpaper and watching to make sure that it doesn't seed up because sandpaper can get seeds on it from fresh paint that can cause deep scratches during the color sanding we got lucky at a swap meet and found some unilog old western style wheels that had been painted black PR by the previous owner and we decided that these would look pretty good if we marbleize these along to match the car so we're applying we've sanded them carefully the existing black paint that was on them and we're applying a a black base coat same base coat we used on the car the PBC 100 then we're going to follow up with the blue marblizer just exactly the way we did on the automobile we got four of these babies they had tires on them it was an excellent buy and I think they're going to look very good on the car allow that base to set up properly here we come with the blue marblizer get that coat on now because this is a small part we are going to time ourselves and give ourselves 1 minute before we apply uh the Saran Wrap reason for that is we want to get a nice textured pattern it's completely different when you're doing small parts than when you're doing a large car many times we don't wait at all now we've waited our 1 minute we're applying it we need to make sure we get it pressed into all the corners and the crevices that exist on this wheel in order to get our proper effect we going to need another piece in order to bridge make sure we get it in but we have to be positive that we're getting a good touch everywhere on the wheel teir off one more small piece through the fill in make sure we're getting it rubbed in all the areas it's critical because if we don't it's going to look funny we can come back can do some blotting if you make mistakes now you notice I've gone over many of these areas two or three times not a problem not a problem to make sure that it's well laid down all right P it off check the effect yep it's there looks great now we'll follow up with the white marblizer the silver white and then the candy and then the clear coat and whether if the wheels look good we may not even bother color sanding them but the next move is to get them on the vehicle all right we're applying the urethane candy that we've riched try to get our color in three coats to match the car uh then we're going to clear coat and our next step is to let the wheels dry overnight get them on the vehicle and we're planning to put it in a car show and we want to take you over there and show you the final product

Channel: PHARRAWAY

Views: 229,774

Keywords: how to repair clear coat, auto painting, LucastheSpider, Funny, Family Entertainment, Pets, SATAJET, IWATA, DEVILBISS, DIY, painting for beginners, Will Smith, Devilbiss DV1, CLEAR COAT, TRENDING, Don Pepe, 350z, BoxChevy

Id: R2MXM6pWlcE

Length: 59min 12sec (3552 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 04 2014