Secrets to the Perfect Paint Job Revealed

welcome back to the channel guys today we have a 63 Lincoln that you guys have been asking on paint questions we have done a lot of metalworking we've done body work but we don't really have any video going in depth on the actual paint process do you paint the car together do you paint it apart do you have tape lines do you not so what we're going to do today is basically dive into every single thing all the way from sealer base coat and clear coating the car all of the details that we do how much paint does it take to do a car this size [Music] foreign [Applause] 's in the booth right now it's already masked off it's been cleaned with wax and grease remover it's had waterborne cleaner we've tack cloth the whole car down and we're ready to basically start shooting with our sealer now what is the reason that we actually need a sealer because some guys use it some guys don't we didn't used to always use sealer but we do now and really it boils down to two things you need to have one of two adhesions right chemical or mechanical adhesion and before I go deep down this Rabbit Hole of all the details that's going to go into this just keep in mind this is not the only way this is more of the restoration way this is not really going to apply and I know there's going to be a lot of collision guys that probably have issues with something of my process this is 25 years of screw-ups really you name it I have screwed it up at some point so I'm going to give you guys a ton of tips on why I do things very specifically there is a lot of details and if you guys are in the middle of learning to paint I recommend on any of these videos that you watch the video try it then watch the video again you'll get something else out of the video every single time and going back to why do we seal well we finished the car off with 600 grit wet sandpaper the color that we're going to be shooting today is going to be a high Pearl context content there's a lot of pearl in this color it is a Chrysler 300 metallic blue and has a lot of Blue Pearl so I like to go at a minimum 600 to 800 grit to be able to shoot everything over now we're going to seal because we're we're putting the sealer into our 600 grit scratch and that's where we're getting our adhesion mechanically from our vp2050 epoxy High build which is what is on the car right now and then we are going to go over it with the ECS 87 this is envira Baseline for PPG it's what they prefer for that particular Vibrance line to seal with we're going to be shooting also in Firebase we're going to be shooting waterborne base coat we're not going to be shooting solvent based today sometimes every now and then we might shoot a solvent base and really it's just knowing why we use one versus the other to me I like waterborne the metallics lay down better and overall when the paint is dry you don't have as much Orange Peel or modeling it's a very clean look you have the mechanical adhesion when you seal and then you have a time frame per your TDS sheet all of these products have a TDS sheet it's a technical data sheet and it is specific to that product what pressure you shoot with your gun recommended what time frame that you have to shoot it down to when can you top coat it how long is it open and when I say open meaning it's now going to get a chemical adhesion so when we put base coat over our sealer you're then getting a chemical adhesion you have about a 15 minute flash time for this particular product and it's also dependent on your temperature and humidity throughout the day I try to shoot all of our completes within a couple days I'm different and a lot of guys will put the car together so maybe they shoot the door jambs and stuff and then they back mask all your jams I don't do that I shoot everything completely separate we shoot the whole door inside outside everything at one time so I don't have a tape Edge or tape line and even though this is a pearl color we'll get everything to match uniformly even with it being painted two to three different days apart we're going to shoot our base coat over our sealer and then we're going to be getting a chemical adhesion here not you can not to say that you can't you can shoot your sealer and then wet sand your sealer but part of the reason that I don't like to do that is I like to get everything clean and if you shoot your sealer and you find dust nibs here and there you can always sand those out and then reseal that area what a sealer is good for especially with waterborne paintings it's very finicky if you're Waxing or I'm sorry waxing waxing grease remover and you're using your waterborne cleaner and you're wiping the whole car down you might have hints of residue where maybe the rag was excessively wet and what will happen is as you paint that color it will show right it'll show up right away when you go to shoot that base coat over those areas where if you go over with a sealer you're now making the substrate one uniform texture it's one uniform color and depending on the color that you're going to shoot you're going to want to tint your sealer per that color for this particular color this is a dark gray almost a black sealer because the color almost looks black but it does have blue in the metallics and the pearls so you'll actually use less paint by using this color sealer to go over also if you have areas that are different colors or you've burned through a couple spots there's going to be some things that we'll talk about in the booth to make sure that you do so you don't have soak up in different areas that you'll see later on as things dry this is going to be a four to one to one and this is my poor man mixing bank I just use the drill hooked up to you can buy these at your local paint supply this is for their mixing bank and I just cut the top off so I can hook a drill up to it and I can keep mixing this up sealer you're not going to use as much as you do the base coat so we'll go through this process I'm going to mix up the four to one to one uh you're always going to want to put the sealer itself in to your mixing cup first and then your hardener and then your reducer as the lines fall and by that when you have these mix ratios on the Cup itself you'll look for your four to one to one and you'll start with where your 4 is so if if you have all these numbers one through eight I'll fill it all the way up to the eight on the four with just the sealer and then you'll see another four next to it that'll be how much you fill it up with your hardener and then being the reducer you'll go to the third column and go to the other four that way you're always consistent you guys can mix this on a scale you can mix it just off the ratios I'm trying to give you guys a variety of different things if you don't have a big Booth or a paint shop I've been doing this stuff for 25 years I've started in a three-car garage and I can tell you today I can pull off the same finish in my garage as I do here in the shop with the booth so we're going to mix it up right off of the ratios on the cup there are these cool lights forget where we got these Amazon Home Depot these lights are adjustable they're magnetic and it just helps you see when you're pouring everything in so there's our sealer in this particular sealer is using the eh391 hardener we're going to go to the very next number eight in the one column for the four to one to one and because we're in good Oak Southern California we have all these compliant issues we get the d8767 they have different versions of all these different products per the state and the city you're in I'm in the worst and we fill that up with the reducer to the very last column to the last number eight something that I like to do when I'm spraying a complete not that I like to do I make it a necessity that we always take into consideration what our temperature is and what our humidity is and the reason is is this paint might react differently and how you spray it how you set your gun up so I try to make sure that my weather for that week if I know it's going to take me a day to shoot the body a day to shoot the doors and then you figure you got your trunk and hood that you're going to have to spray the bottom side and then flip it over and do the top side it's going to take me three days well I look at the weather and try to find out what is the best week that I can do this well we had two good days of weather yesterday and then today today we're going to shoot the body yesterday we did all the doors in doing that I know that today is pretty close to the same temperatures and humidities but I jot this down for every customer car I'll put it in the invoice to where I always have documented notes of how I mixed every single one of the products how many coats the gun setup everything is critical when you're trying to get it to match all the way through when it's separated that's why this is so important now if your temperature varies a little bit it's not the end of the world you just don't want to be shooting one day and it's 60 degrees and one day it's 114 because that's really what we get here depending on the day we've already mixed up our sealer we're going to go in the booth and I'm going to show you guys some gun setup as well as things to consider when you have areas where there's maybe a little area of filler showing what are the pros and cons to that all right let's talk about why are we sealing well we're sealing because every Project's going to be a little bit different maybe we have a cow that we didn't strip this car is kind of a mixed bag we usually have everything stripped all the way to Bare Metal this car was not done that way and it's the last one that we're going to do that way however because this is already blue and this is gray and then we come down here to the side we have one little speck of filler showing through where we burned through while we were wet sanding well what would happen here is whether it be polyester primer or it be filler they're both polyester they're both porous and what happens is things soak up more into them all of this is VP 2050 epoxy primer it's a little different than your standard epoxy it's an epoxy High build so I use this in place of my polyester primer because I have so much Mill thickness here that I can actually block it down and I can even go all the way from if I have enough I usually put about three to four coats of this primer when I'm done with my body work and we can actually block it out with 150 dry 220 dry and I can go from 220 whether I want to use 320 or whether I want to jump to 600 wet I can do all of that with this primer but the reason that we seal is to take care of these areas now can you just seal this and then let it Flash and come in and base coat it yes you can but what will happen later as things dry is this little spot will soak up some of the sealer so the trick is that you seal the car and have a mental note maybe you take a picture so that way you know where these breakthroughs are you let the sealer flash off from 15 minutes to an hour after an hour you're able to get in there and sand it depending on your temperature but what I'll do is I'll come in with some 600 paper and I'll just wet sand this little area after I seal it by doing that I'm eliminating that edge from showing up as a Halo when things soak up into something that is porous you will see it as things dry but by giving it that hour dry time the longer you can let it dry the more you won't have those Halos come back but there's a pro and a con because if we wait more than eight hours with this sealer I have to give it a mechanical tooth I cannot rely on a chemical adhesion from base coat to sealer so I want you guys to understand read your TDS sheet and make sure you understand that I have a window that I can paint this car today and if I'm outside that window of eight hours I need to come back in and wet sand this car again to have the tooth so I'm gonna go through and you can see here we're trying to make the substrate the car all one uniform color that's what the dark gray is for it's going to make it where I use less paint for example let's just say this blue this blue is the same color we're painting the car so it's not as big of a deal but right here where you have these areas where there's primer and blue you'll see that line because it's lighter it will take twice if not three times the amount of paint to cover that difference than if I was to just seal it so how do you set up your gun let's go over that I want you guys to notice that I have turn that around for you I use a diaphragm regulator a diaphragm regulator you're not going to see as much of a dip in the air pressure when your air compressor is kicking on and off I have a water separator on the outside of the booth that is a SATA system and it will completely trap all of the moisture if you're a guy in your garage like that's what I'm used to I always have one of these little diaphragm water separators at the gun it's just a last uh last point of anything that's going to maybe get through it's just a safety precautionary thing I also like to put a swivel so that way I can put the cord above my shoulder and this isn't falling around you always need to be mindful of your cord so what I do is this is your needle this is controlling how much paint flow is coming out of the gun so what I'll do is I will turn this all the way in now I have air right but no paint I cannot pull back anymore and what I'm doing here is I'm taking a notation of where this is well I shot the doors yesterday and I set this gun up to what I liked and when that was for base coat this isn't quite as critical for sealer but here's the thing everything that we do with sealer is going to be a representation of how our finish looks after clear coat if you spray the sealer and it looks like orange peel and it's not laying down nice while your base coat's just going to keep on multiplying then you put your clear on it keeps multiplying more and more orange peel so gun setup is what something everybody neglects to do and well how do you control when you're pulling that trigger you're trying most guys when they're first painting they're very rigid and they have a hard time focusing because everybody's scared of getting a run or whatever issue well eliminate all of those issues by setting up your gun for every single product you're going to shoot do a test panel in an area that maybe isn't as critical so you can see the Finish I will dial every time I use this gun I go all the way out this this setting is for your fan it's how big the fan is well I want this to lay out nice and smooth and I know for this particular gun if I go in one turn that it basically gets rid of a little bit of overspray on the outer edges and if I don't have any paint coming out I can count how many turns one turn two turn and now I can see a little bit of paint coming out I can start dry so even if you want to start up here on the plastic you can look at it and go does it look too dry or does it look too wet if we know we're going to do a 50 overlap meaning whatever that fan size is that is my fan size if I adjust the fan in or out this will get narrower to a bullet and be very heavy on the paint so you have to adjust either one of these to get the flow that you like the only other adjustment that you have is your air pressure well your TDS sheet will also give you a parameter of air pressures to use but every gun's a little bit different so I already know that this is the gun I always use this is an Iwata ws-400 with the green cap it's more of a base coat gun but I use it for everything some guys will I guarantee chime in about how they like to use a separate gun well I've been doing this 25 years use the same gun the only thing I used is different is a primer gun because it's a bigger tip it's a lot thicker product and I need to be able to be sprayable so everything you're going to spray depends on that this particular gun most guys use a 1.3 tip I have a 1.4 in this gun right now that's just what I'm used to some guys like SATA some guys like Iwata it to me it's a Ford or Chevy deal you either like what you like or what you started with I'm an airbrush guy I like Iwata so I'm going to put this around my neck and we're going to seal the car and I'm going to make a mental note right now I already know as I seal this car that that area of burned through is really my only spot that I have as a concern as I go through this everything else is going to seal just fine but remember that's that's porous and I know that's going to soak up so I'll just give it a little wet sand and I'll reseal it now as we set this up if you guys are wondering what this apparatus is if you have a booth like my booth is old it's 30 years old it's seen better days it needs a cleaning and the lighting is different we got newer LEDs down there maybe you're in your garage then this luma3 is an awesome addition they sell them for specific guns so make sure if you haven't bought a gun that you research what guns you can actually use with these lights they're different diameters for different gun tips but as I screw this in there's rechargeable batteries inside boom you now have light and you can see in some of the harder to get areas as we spray the base coat you're going to see this becomes very helpful on knowing where your modeling is your stripes your evenness so once you figure out what the gun setting needs to be how many turns out you like I jot all of this information down what the temperature the humidity how many turns out on the needle how many turns out on the fan what is my air pressure all of those things matter to be repeatable and the reason that matters is because as you can see we don't have any doors on this car in order for this Pearl to look perfect from this door to that Fender and the quarters you have to be a robot I can't paint the car and then have one of my guys paint the doors and everything else tomorrow so it's going to look different my technique on how I hold the gun my pattern everything is going to be different person to person so making sure you have a notepad or in your phone notes putting all this information down is how you're going to get these panels to be the same waterborne paint can be a little bit finicky and as you spray it it might take you might see where uh if we were to go straight to base coat you might see where we wiped something down even though it's been cleaned and if we seal it now we have one uniform substrate all the way through and it makes the base coat process go a lot quicker and again use less paint you just need to match the sealer with whatever color that likes to be put over you can ask your paint shop that's local to you guys on what they recommend for that color using a sealer so without uh further Ado let's turn these lights on and let's check our spray pattern here this sealer is a lot runnier than a normal primer and you as I spray this see how it looks a little bit on the thin side right well I can dial this in a half turn at a time now I'm at two and a half turns out now you can see it's covering a lot better what you want is that you want to be if you're going to do a 50 overlap as you spray you want the first pattern to be just a touch and I mean just a touch this takes practice and not getting a run well if I come through like a robot and I say robot but you need to be relaxed I know a lot of guys are going to poo poo this but I used to have a drink grab a beer in between coats if it if you're anxious or you're in your garage take the anxious down take your time and just relax there's no reason that you should have to rush this process especially in this stage now let's talk about the fan see how I'm tilting the gun this way that's because these horns are the air pressure coming out of the gun which is making my fan this way well if I want to go upright I can flip these and now I can hold the gun up and down and spray in these areas what we're looking for here is a perfect wet coat or as perfect as we can get it without a bunch of orange peel this is just to seal everything in don't forget to turn that back and then continue on here we can flip it back up you don't have to do this but the more you can be consistent with your pattern you want everything to one look like one big droplet of paint and no dry areas me personally I like to go around the car and do all of the hard to get areas first so I get all of my rockers my wheel arches my door jamb what's cool about once you've set this gun up you always want to stay on the air keep your air on the entire time and it's a fluctuation of putting the paint on you don't want to be on the paint the whole time pulling all the way back you want to be on it office on it off it and feather your Edge otherwise you're going to see areas in your metallics where it's really heavy where you start and stop because right there you just float in twice as much paint you have to have a little bit of finesse as you get maybe around a wiring harness whisk it in there but the reason that we set the gun up is so that way you can make this repeatable if you don't set this gun up you're going to have runs and thick areas and thin areas but what happens when we go to color sand and polish and you got all these thick and thin areas you're going to burn through and if you're gonna do a candy or any kind of other Graphics you should be practicing how you spray your car from day one when you spray the first coat of epoxy primer you're basically practicing then so that way by the time you get to do sealer and paint you've already got it down pretty good foreign so just to recap let's say you get a hair or a dust spec or something in this let it dry for 15 minutes to an hour once you can touch it you can totally come in here and wet sand a little spot wipe it back off with waxing grease or waterborne cleaner tack cloth it and come back in and just touch it up with the sealer the other thing is as you spray some guys spray close some guys spray far if you're spraying close I now have the ability for you guys who are machinists I call it the speed and the feed or you're feeding it paint and everybody's technique is going to be different so just because this works for me does not mean this is going to work for everybody you need to adjust the gun for your pace that you're comfortable me I like to move fast and I like to be close what that does is it allows me to put down a nice finish move quicker and because I'm not out here far I'm getting a very nice wet bed of paint and I don't have something that's going to get dry you don't want to apply any of this process where it's going on as a fog when we get to the paint you won't want to miss that because it's going to it it's we're going to talk about how you set the gun up on the last coach so that way you don't screw yourself and get modeling look at that at this point as you're doing your primer and your sealer you can see if you've missed anything in your paint job we really like to use there's a product called like 90. it's a paint check and if you're before you get the sealer you can spray this over the car and what it's going to do is let you see this reflection we're paying attention to these lights and what you want to make sure is that that light stays flat and the same you don't want to have it where it's doing a dip because there's a lot of guys saying oh I do the same type of paint job well I can look at a video and tell you just by what the reflection looks like or whether you're doing quality work or not using long blocks and technique is everything what we do it's not something that you can just buy a block and Achieve it's all technique okay foreign another thing you don't want to do is you don't want to have the gun tilted you want the gun to be perpendicular to your panel because if you tilt it it's now heavier here than it is on this side always spray perpendicular to the panel with a 50 overlap now you lock the panel so everything is uniform we may not be doing a candy but why not practice for it the more you do this the better you're going to get always keep in mind your air hose pull your air hose take your time don't rush you don't want the air hose to grab the paper and rip everything off the car so just take your time walk around everything get situated even if you need to do a test run just practice without focusing it find out where your air hose is going to lay can you walk the panel without tripping on the hose this matters when it comes to metallics and candies it really matters it matters because every coat gets darker or changes the look so I'm going to just continue for you guys sealing the rest of this car up again I'll just come back to that spot where the filler was give it a quick little wet sand after it dries retouch it and now I won't have soak up in that spot and then we'll start mixing the base coat hey guys all right so we've got two coats of sealer on the entire car and now we're going to roll into the base coat when you're doing the base coat I want you to keep in mind this what we're going to talk about is very specific to waterborne paint not solvent solvent is going to react very different not to say that you can't do these steps but the consistency of the paint is going to change so when we're doing a big car especially a tugboat of a Lincoln we got two gallons to make sure that we have enough paint to do everything it's actually a little on the excessive side we're used to doing the whole belly and everything too so that's why we always get two plus if you ever have a problem or somebody Nicks or Keys your car now you at least have extra paint but as you go to your paint shop wherever that may be in this case we went to Temecula Valley Paint they're local to me I've gone there forever and to discuss how they mix it each one of the pigments to make up this color is in on a paint Bank as they put each basically each color gives them a printout and it tells them how many parts that they put in of each color to make that particular color now you have variances too for example this is a Chrysler 300 metallic blue color well there might be a few different variances of that particular color because of maybe where the plant was and where they made the paint so what I want to make sure and ensure is that I bought two gallons which yesterday we mixed all of this together so if I'm using this on a paint scale and I'm putting in a certain amount of droplets I want to make sure there is no change between one gallon and the other so what we did was we took a three gallon bucket we cleaned it out really good we tack cloth it so there's no dust inside of it I poured I mixed these up thoroughly we poured both gallons into that three gallon bucket and while we were doing that we have to use a little bit of the reducer we don't have to what I did was I wanted to make sure that every ounce of the paint let's say every ounce I guess I'm getting kind of crazy but get the majority of the paint out of the bucket out of the gallon can by taking a little bit of the reducer that you have to use for the paint anyway and splosh a little bit in there and mix it up so you get all of the majority of the metallics the pearls the pigment all into the bucket when you get it all out of both buckets then you need to come up with the consistency now you've taken any kind of variance that you're going to have from one gallon to the other and made them one then with waterborne waterborne is very finicky and you want to use a din Cup this is a din 4 it's what the paint shop recommended I'm no chemist I go to the paint shop we get the paint and I look at a TDS sheet so I don't know the chemical makeup of whatever I just know that they told me what the viscosity is the viscosity is how thick the paint is going through the gun and out the tip well if we're shooting a 1.4 gun gun tip we want something that sprays really nice through that so with doing this we're going to dip this into the three gallon bucket after it's completely mixed up really thoroughly and we're going to pull it just above and start a timer and what that timer needs to be for this per TDs is about 22 seconds give or take you can get it close if you're a little bit off but remember if we're not in a paint shop and I don't have more of the paint or more of the uh actual makeup of the paint to make it thicker you want to creep up on the viscosity meaning we're going to thin the paint with a reducer we're looking for 22 seconds from the time this comes out of the paint to the time that it drips and when we started we were around 40 seconds so we we slowly added about eight ounces at a time for the two gallon it's just to get you guys that are in your garage more comfortable with not ruining in this case it was almost two thousand dollars worth of paint between just the pigment in these two gallons waterborne is a lot more expensive but I feel like you get what you pay for when it comes to the clarity in this paint Once you pull it out and you reduce it little by little until you get that 22 seconds that is the viscosity that this paint likes to be sprayed in if you go too watery you're not going to get the same coverage you need it's going to spray exactly like water and you're going to have runs and thin spots and all that good stuff so once you get to where you need to be most of the time you could be done and putting it in your gun and spraying however you have a window we talk about mechanical we talk about chemical adhesion right well what we're going to be using today and a lot of guys don't do this most collision shops don't do this but we're going to be using the t493 this is a modifier it's basically a five percent of hardener again per TDS if you have this reduced okay what we did after we have everything done is I'm going I yesterday we sprayed the doors the trunk the hood and some filler panels I got as much stuff as I could spray because we've added reducer to that three gallon bucket and now I need to get some of that out of the three gallon bucket so it'll fit back in the two gallons we started with right so spray all those parts once you're done mix the bucket up thoroughly and then pour it back into the two gallons put notes on top of the bucket already reduced already sprayable ready to go you do not want to add the modifier because it's a hardener it's going to start making this more of a jelly obviously with five percent it's not going to turn it solid like you would clear by the next day but what this is going to do is it's going to give you a longer window to top coat base coat being that it's a waterborne base coat you need to make sure that all of the solvents the reducer that you're going to use and I don't want you guys to get confused this is not the reducer that we're using for the waterborne that's the reducer we're using for the sealer and for the clear because they are solvent you want to use a very specific waterborne reducer this is your waterborne reducer this is t494 this is what we were adding the eight ounces at a time okay so you're adding that in once you get to where you need to be we are sprayable okay we're poured back into the gallons this is day two we're going to spray the body we need the doors to match exactly with the body of the car so we've been taking notes on our spray gun right we have all of our needle settings our fan settings I have to be the one spraying the car if I shut the doors I need to spray the body I can't switch painters I can't stress that enough everybody's going to spray different and how that person holds the gun is going to make the metallics land differently but going back to the t493 modifier this is going to be put on a scale we have an empty cup I know people are going to ask this is a paint scale it's the Sartorius is the brand it's a paint scale it measures parts and grams we already have the viscosity we've already reduced it yesterday we know exactly where we need to be I can go right into pouring this in the cup I want to clear the paint scale so that way I can measure how this is does not matter if you have the paint stick in or out all that matters is that you have zeroed it with it in there and we're going to take whatever this amount weighs and we are going to add five percent of our modifier just take that number in your calculator plus five percent that's how much modifier you're going to add to that base coat and now you are committed to that cup you cannot throw that cup back in your gallon like you would do before with base coat before with it's reduced as long as you don't use a hardener you can pour it back in the thing all day long as many times you want that's kind of the pro and con knowing how much you're going to spray that day obviously we're going to spray a whole car so I could do this in a bigger jug have it all done and just keep pouring it in as I need but I'm going to do this per cup because I don't want to waste any of the customers paint and from there we'll put it in the gun and go right back through the exact same process with gun setup you're going to use everything that you used when you did the sealer but you have to reset up the gun for the base coat that is the most critical the sealer really isn't as critical because it just boils down to the finish and the orange peel that you're putting on the car this matters we already know from yesterday that I liked two turns out on the paint needle and one turnout on the needle and I set my air pressure for this viscosity for this gun and for my technique at about 38 to 40 PSI um so we're just going to put it right back to those settings add our modifier and jump to it before I forget the other part of this is you guys have a paint Shaker at home maybe it's one of those Harbor Freight jobs you cannot Shake waterborne paint it makes it too aerated and it ruins the paint so you want to stir paint products you can shake primers and all that good stuff but when it comes to you can even Shake solvent-based paint but really I would get in the habit of stirring your paint products and shaking your primers all right we got the paint in the gun not at our modifier we're going to turn on our Luma light I love this thing especially in base coat and we are going to repeat exactly that same process as we did with the sealer but we need to make sure we have enough of this base coat on the car for coverage we don't want to do a paint job that's tiger striped or has modeling to it we want something that looks exactly the same as the door if it looks off don't have the mindset that it's going to look any better with clear coat on it it won't so we're gonna we know yesterday we needed three coats of coverage so with this gun set up at about 40 PSI I know that I need three coats 50 overlap to get it to cover we're going to make sure that we have the right flash times in between coats so give it 10 to 15 minutes per whatever your TDS sheet says in between coats or you can do the tech test you're not going to have as much you want the paint to be tacky not stringy so pick an area on a car that you can touch and it's not going to affect your paint job it's more in tune with your clear coats that you're going to do that base coats usually dry so fast by the time you get to the other side of the car it's already drying so again we're we're going to talk at the end after our three coats about what you need to do to make sure you don't have modeling and tiger stripes and uniformity there's a few things that we're going to do to make sure of that so here we go raw footage we're just going to go around this thing and start sealing um I've already sent my gun up to exactly what I had yesterday you'll also notice how bright blue this looks that's the waterborne color as the water leaves and it gasses off it's going to look super dark almost black waterborne paint is a lot runnier than what most are used to uh if you're a solvent guy take your time learn the product it is different but I do like it a lot better foreign us if you're spraying and things maybe look too dry well what do you need to do if it looks too dry you either need to increase your paint flow or slow down if you're paint foil and you want to move faster add more paint flow and move faster again this is not a setup that's going to work for everybody you just adjust the gun to what you like I don't know if it shows up in camera but you'll see all the different Stripes as we go through that's because a lot of times if you're painting in an unlit area that's not very good lighting you might think it looks good but really there's tiger stripes all over this thing because the pigment in the paint is not thick enough being that this is a dark sealer it makes this dark blue cover really easily don't be back far away from the panel where you're fogging it on because you're worried about the metallics that's probably one of the most common things is people think well I'm dealing a high metallic color I need to shoot from way back here with a higher pressure it's actually backwards for what you would think go ahead and keep putting it on nice and wet let it look striped try to be very uniform with your coverage be the robot as a cosmoski would say and go through everything very systematically as if it's a candy when you get done with three coats we'll talk about how we get rid of those tiger stripes and modeling also as you paint take the time to uncoil your hose so it doesn't slap the side of the car and if we are doing a car that's apart you always want to walk the entire length of the car I will even set up all four doors in here where you have front door back door being on the same side together that way you're eliminating matching issues right out of the gate and if you're walking the length of the car you're spraying the same don't be the guy who sits here and sprays like this and then move over here you can see this ain't a body that's built for Speed I am overweight I mean I look like a blueberry for God's sake so take your time you don't have to rush it just walk the whole length because it's going to make a big difference got the blueberry painting the blue car how convenient having that sealer down just covers so nice right out of the gun you're not struggling for coverage and then you got these tight areas here this might be where you adjust this fan right big fan is going to give me a run out here but if I narrow this out I can focus the paint to go in it where I need it just make sure you go back to your setting all the way out one turn in and continue on all right you're a beginner this is your first paint job you just got a big old run in the car what do you do just stop let the let the paint where maybe just continue on painting the car and then when it's dry enough to sand come in there wherever your sag is or you run sand it out you're probably going to want to dry sand it because it's waterborne so if you wet sand it with water it's going to loosen this back up um but anyways you can wet sand it out and then just come right back in with good coverage over that area it's just paint if you mess it up you get a bug in it you get whatever in it you let it dry scuff it out adding that hardener or modifier to this base coat is going to give you an extended work time to be able to top coat it with clear so don't stress about it just come in blend it back in and move on I think a lot of people get overwhelmed it's just paint you're not going to the Moon foreign like for example I don't know where the trash came in right here those little specks but what I'll do is waterborne likes to dry with airflow so I can sit here like this and I could dry this area especially if it's a hot day which today is pretty moderate I can go grab a blow dryer and dry this and just grab the speck out of it and then come right back through and paint on so I'm not going to sweat that yet I'll come back and make sure I get all those imperfections out you could be the most quote unquote professional painter we all make mistakes you just got to learn how to fix them move on so we're going to do this exact process all the way through three coats we'll bring you guys back for the orientation code or drop coat whatever you guys want to call it there is three coats right now on this car with normal spray pattern 50 overlap but this most people would just clear this car and be just fine especially with waterborne paint it lays down really nice um but as far as if you really want to ensure doing something all the way apart where the doors are off and the hood and the trunk are off the great part about this is we can do what they call an orientation code there's all kinds of different tricks I'm sure especially a collision guy would know way more than me on tricks to get certain blend outs and and stuff like that however if you have all of the notations that you took notes all the way through this process of where your needle sit where your fan set air temperature or not air temperature air pressure what's great about that is if you have something happen I can blend the paint out beyond the damage with the same paint same settings and have no problems so now we're going to orientate the metallics what I want you guys to think about here we put it on very wet and consistent and if you look at the finish of the fenders and on the rest of the car everything looks really pretty awesome but if we take the gun with the exact same settings the only thing we're going to change is we are going to change our air pressure from 40. down to about 15 psi and what this is going to do a lot of guys have said oh that's putting it on dry and you're dusting it and you're not adhering well let me rewind on that because as you put the air pressure down what is happening well the the paint is not itemizing in in other words it's a bigger droplet now if you use a bigger droplet lower pressure it's basically splattering it on the car but it's doing it very finely because we have our gun needle and fan set up a specific way well putting a bigger droplet now what I'm going to do is I want to do not a 50 but I want to do a 75 percent overlap so a very tight pattern all the way through what that's going to do and I'm going to walk the panel just as I've been doing the whole time all the way from sealer base coat now into the very last of the three coats we're going to do three I think it's maybe a little excessive you probably only need two and I've gotten away with one but we have the paint I want to make sure this thing looks perfect so I'm going to do three coats this way I also am making sure that the the three coats that I've already put on has completely flashed off and it's not extremely wet so it's putting a bigger droplet now if if I was to turn the air pressure up because logically that's what you think in your head is that if I get back and I turn my air pressure up well now my fan is huge and I'm going to dust the whole car and make it look even right that's where we're going to get rid of our tiger stripes and our modeling but what it's doing is it's actually making the droplet very small and it's drying because you're out here and as you're dusting this yeah it might look uniform but we just took all this time making sure we had mechanical or chemical adhesion we do not want to introduce a coat of paint to this car that's not adhering well so that is why it's a bigger droplet it's wetter and that droplet is going to orientate the metallics so as long as we're watching that we don't want those droplets to more or less connect we want them to look uniform and tight pattern over the car because that is what's going to make the metallics look uniform panel to panel that's why you have to be same painter if somebody else paints it it's going to look differently so I want to show you guys some examples here I'm going to go ahead and I'm going to do two coats over the entire car this way the jams and everything and I'm going to do the third just on the exterior panels what's awesome about waterborne versus solvent based Is waterborne even though it's going on as a bigger droplet and it might look rough at first when it dries it looks dead flat it's a pretty awesome looking car so here we go we're going to hit this with again 10p or a 15 PSI and don't change any other settings we're going to flip on our light so we can see hopefully this shows up on the GoPro can you guys see how that looks hopefully I am a little bit farther away from the panel than I was before the biggest thing is making sure you get uniformity blend out your corners lock the car lock your shoulder walk side to side you can kind of see that this part of the process goes much faster now the other reason that I do the exterior only on the last run is because if I'm coming in here doing a jam with a bigger droplet like this some of it's going to go over this Edge and by doing that the metallics will look different right here so I'm going to make sure that I always do the whole length of the Fender last I don't know if that shows up on camera or not but you can see how I'm just doing the jam and it's actually hitting over into here it's very little difference that's hitting but it is a hit if you were to do this with solvent-based paint the Finish doesn't come out quite as nice because it doesn't dry as flat so we're going to just do this like I said two full times around the car on the third one I'm only going to do the exterior and then I'm going to shut the lights off in the booth grab one of those small sunlights or a flashlight or whatever that has good lighting and I'm going to go from top to bottom and I am going to shine this on the car to make sure that we don't have areas that look splotchy or thin we want to make sure we have full coverage and everything looks no different some people think that if we clear it it's going to make it look better well if it looks like crap before you clear it you just locked in the crap foreign foreign there's one you can see well maybe you can maybe you can't but it's already dry where we started because we're not putting a ton of material on even though it is a little bit bigger of a drop it's not a ton of a difference it just looks a little hazy but don't worry this is going to come alive when we get to the clear coat it just looks black right now but it's going to pop foreign foreign foreign we got two down already it moves along pretty quick we're just going to do the exterior now I'm not going to worry about the door jambs or hood or trunk jams the biggest thing is that people get tiger stripes or modeling because usually they don't have enough paint on the car make sure you have enough coats that you can't see a difference and then worry about the metallic orientation last so here we go last coat we've got three full orientation coach so all together we have three wet coats for coverage and three I don't want to call them dry coats because people get mistaken by that but three orientation coats it's a bigger wetter droplet well what do you have to take into consideration is that even though it kind of looks uniform we need to make sure that this is completely dry before we go into clear coat reason being waterborne well regardless whether you're using waterborne or solvent you need to make sure that the base coat is completely dry or you're going to have solvent pops so with the car being done we're going to go out here clean the gun and mix up some clear and we'll talk about that process next all right I mentioned before we've done those last three orientation coats for the metallics to lay right now we just want to ensure this is a sunlight that we got at Harbor Freight you can actually order these online you just don't see them in the store there are a lot more affordable than your average sunlight but what we're doing here is we're taking this light and we are moving it top to bottom side to side and we just are looking for any inconsistent paint patterns if you see a stripe if you see a flake where it shouldn't be whatever it may be we want everything to look completely uniform before we jump into doing the clear I've gone around we've verified everything on this car is ready to go we do have to make sure this is completely dry I can't stress that enough so let's go over the table and let's talk about some clear we verified that all of the base coat is uniform we don't have any areas that look thin or modely all the metallics have orientated correctly and now it's time to clear the car make sure I cannot stress that enough that all of your base coat is completely dry what's cool about putting that five percent of the modifier into your base coat the hardener it gives you time you don't have this very short window where you have to clear the car over the base within a certain parameter it gives you don't quote me I forget exactly what it is but it definitely gives you a few days to be able to clear the card now although I do not agree with that I know that as long as that has flashed completely off and it's dry I do like to typically give them overnight it's already headed into the afternoon right now and a lot of times I like to let the base coat completely gas off what is gas off if you guys are new to this gassing off is as you add reducer whether it be solvent based whether it be water-based as you spray it the reducer is what is making it sprayable it's thinning it out to make it come out of the gun when you do that those reducers have to leave the surface and what those reducers do is they gas off and they go to the ceiling in the booth well how many guys have sprayed a car it looked great and then they got done shut everything down went to bed come out the next day and the whole car looks hazy what you're seeing is solvent pop those reducers have to exit the surface and they need to be sucked out by either a booth or what I typically do is I let them completely dry for a few hours with the booth on or if it's in your garage just keep the fans circulating I'll put even a couple fans around the car and out the side door your neighbors are going to love you but it's at least getting the solvents out of the shop to where they're not going to settle back down on your perfect paint job when you go and you try to put clear coat over base coat that's not fully dry that reducer for that base coat still has to exit so if you start hitting it with clear that has a hardener it's going to harden faster than all of your base coats and primers do and when it does that it's going to exit through the clear and it's going to make it look like tiny little pinholes that's solvent pop too there's different variations of things that can happen I found all these things out the hard way again I was not in Collision I didn't do this every day this has strictly been custom cars and restoration for 25 years of Heartache that is what all of this knowledge is that you guys are getting so if you guys have something to contribute by all means put them in the comments or if you have a question that you're having an issue and I didn't cover it ask away what I do like is I like ppg's Vibrance clear it's the VC 5700 it is a high solid clear what does that mean High solids means it has a higher content of resins that is what is staying on the car it is not a high saw vent which has a lot more thinner consistency so if you were using like a four to one Collision clear maybe you're using a shop line or whatever brand you like it's going to be a lot thinner the protection isn't there and you're going to hear guys talk about UV protectants and really UV protectants rise to the top of the clear and when you color sand and polish technically you're taking the UV protectants off of it so what's your UV protectant's really doing I like to pick a high solid clear this is a two to one two half and by half I mean we're using the two to one ratio scale on our bucket I always like to sometimes my eyes are playing tricks on me I like to come in and find our two to one to one ratio and I just outline it that way every time I mix it I know where I'm looking I'm going to mix up for sure at least a half of that gallon to start because I know that's what it's going to take to at least get around it and then when I get closer I might mix it just by the cup um again we're doing the clear then the hardener then the reducer so if you're saying two one half I'm sorry two one one on the mix ratio for this I'm thinking of VP 2050. 211 it's pretty simple so you're going to put the clear itself into the number four line which is the highest one we can do to mix it in this pail which is in the two column but then you're going to put the hardener in in the one column right next to it so if you went to four you're going to go to the next four and then you have these other ones that are percentages that's not for what we're doing we need the other one which is going to be way up here off to the side and that is where we're going to put the reducer to we're going to mix that all up really well I like mixing in a big pail because the one thing that we're trying to do with clear is we are trying to keep a wet Edge let's talk about flow coating there's a lot of guys that swear by flow coating and I'm not one of those guys and the reason is flow coating is where we clear the car so let's just say you put three coats four coats whatever you want to call it for the first round of clear meaning that session that day and then the clear hardened and whether it be a couple days later whatever it may be you wet sanded all of your clear and smoothed it out maybe you had tape lines tape lines is to me the exception of the only time that I flow code is if I'm trying to knock down a separation in colors or a tape line but what we're going to do on this Lincoln is we're going to do we're going to do four coats of this clear and really it's more equivalent to five coats for most because I'm shooting out of a 1.4 tip and I paint very heavily so we'll call it four to five coats whatever you guys want to call it and the reason that we do those back to back is because if you were to do call it three let it dry sand it and then re-clear it and do another three coats people have this mentality the stigma where they say I've got six round six coats of clear on that car and that's the protection that I need or that deep look if you're looking for the Deep look I can assure you it is not in the clear does the clear help yeah but what's actually giving you the depth in your paint job is your body work your metal work your body work all of the stuff that you're doing to set up to get that very flat finish when you're looking at your lights you need to be using a long tubular light that you can see in your paint job in the primer before after wet sanding before we even get into paint to check your body work the straighter that you can get that light in your job the better this clear is going to look when you lay it down but the reason that we don't flow coat is because if you did three and then you sanded it well how many did you sand off did you stand off one coat did you stand off two coat and then you did a second round another day you just had to re-sand the entire car and if you don't have a tape line it's not necessary the reason that people say it can't be done is because they always get solvent pop and most of the time it's because all of those solvents from your very first coat to your fifth coat are trying to exit well what's happening with every coat is it's becoming cross-linked and it's hardening as that top coat is hardening and you're hammering it hammering and hammering it's not allowing the solvent to get out because you're you're hammering it with so many coats so fast so if our TDS sheet tells us and don't quote me 10 15 minutes in between flash times I didn't look at this one and I spray it all the time because I do a different method and that's the touch the tact test Tech test I can put down a coat go somewhere on the car that's not seen and I can touch it with my glove if I touch it and it is stringy the solvents have not had enough time to gas completely off if I touch it and my glove leaves just a print and it's just tacky it's good to go for another round typically that's 10 to 15 minutes but it depends on your temperature in your shop that day like today we're already 65 degrees or so which is like right at the minimum that I want to spray any kind of clear at and we use a slow hardener we use the slowest hardener that you can get for this which is VH 7795 what that does is it keeps the clear open from getting hard so that way it's giving you more time even though we're in winter season right now it's still going to give yourself more time well we're not Collision we don't have to be on a time frame we're just looking for quality over quantity with that you can take this and stack it now five times Well if your flash time is 10 to 15 minutes and then you just put a second coat your flash time is now longer so how do you gauge what that length is touch test you touch it it might double the good rule of thumb is every time that you're going through a coat you're doubling your flash time so if it starts at 10 minutes and it was good then make it 20 minutes and if that's good 40 minutes so it could take quite a while to get through five coats but doing them all at one time the benefit is that if you were to do a flow coat doing three coats sanding it and clearing it again if your final round only had three coats you don't you do not have six coats you have three and the reason is if you're color sanding and polishing and you burn through to the very first round that you did the day before it's still going to show a Halo where you polished it where if you do all of them at one time and account for that flash time account for the grit that you're going to be polishing this particular car we're going to use 600 grit to cut the clear down and because we're using a high solid I'm accounting for how much I'm going to stand off the car with leaving enough clear on the car where we're not going to have something that delaminates most of the time when something delaminates it's because of poor prep or they put the product on so thin that it has nothing that's going to last with all that we're going to mix this up we're going to go to the scale here zero everything out zero our bucket out and dump in the half gallon the reason that I do the the big pail versus the single small cork cup is because we're trying to look for that wet Edge I want to make sure that wherever I start on the car I have enough time to go all the way around the car and grab a wet Edge you don't want to get back to that side and then where it oversprays into where you were it's not melting in and you'll have what looks like a dry area or overspray also why I use a slow hardener it's giving you more time to get around that Tugboat of a Lincoln without having a dry Edge if you are using what you know say your paint shop tells you hey it's winter you're going to want something faster well know your product know how far you can push the limits of that so if you're doing a show car in your garage you might want to paint some small parts to practice and get used to those products before you jump the gun and spending six seven hundred dollars a gallon oh foreign the other thing I want to mention is as we put these products on the car part of the reason that I put the five percent modifier in the base coat is so that it's a 2K our primer our body filler our when we Prime again it's all with a hardener two part then when we get to base coat most people don't put a modifier in it well you're putting something on a car that's equivalent to a spray can that does not cross link the same as if you didn't have the modifier and now we're going to use a clear that also has a hardener so from start to finish every product that you used is going to last a lot longer because it's a 2K because it's a two-part with a hardener all right going over here to the second floor which is right on the money because it's two quarts to one gallon it was exactly what it was so now we're going to go up here to the last number four there we go when you guys are shooting clear there's isocyanides and clear so once you pop oh once you pop the top the air molecules attach to the clear and over time this clear will start turning yellow the other thing is it's really bad for your bloodstream and it it goes to wherever you have moisture so it goes to your eye sockets it goes to if you're sweating on your skin and it will go into your bloodstream so it is good to wear a paint suit it's even better if you can afford the full face we're looking into buying one right now so if you guys have a full face setup that you like the best I really don't want to drag two Airlines behind me like we've done in the past here I'm looking for one of those uh backpack deals so if you guys have any input of what you like and why put it in the comments I need to get something to protect our our uh full face and everything rather than just a mask speaking of which The Mask make sure you guys are using charcoal filters in your mask because if you're just using a dust mask you're inhaling all of this bad stuff now I'm going to set up the gun for the clear and make sure it's not going on too heavy so I don't get runs and I'm just going to slowly build every coat some guys will put on a medium wet coat in the beginning so it gets a little tacky if you're new to clearing I would say that's not a bad idea do what works for you guys me I pretty much spray it wet right out of the gate I just make sure that my gun is set up to where by the time it's going over the 50 percent it's wetting out right in time for that second coat where it overlaps I'll do the first one and I'll look at what the Finish should be just a hint on the dry side that way when you come back and you overlap it just wets out that way you get the wettest finish and every time you put another layer on because we used waterborne because we used a good quality sealer we don't have any Orange Peel on the car I don't want to say any we have a very minimal amount of orange peel nobody sprays perfect you're going to have a level of orange peel on there unless you're wet sanding in between things and I don't see the benefit so that's just me let's shoot some clear clears in the gun let's turn our light on let's talk about setting this gun up I already know I like 38 to 40 PSI in this particular gun I know I still like my fan the same one turn in and right now I went two turns out on the clear just to see how does it stack up next to the base coat let's look at what finish we get so pick a good flat spot you can test and set up your gun with now you can see I I like to spray at a decent speed and that looks super dry so I know I can come out to three turns now see how it looks it's wet but it's not basically this would be like your medium wet coat if you were just getting used to clearing so that way this would tack up and you would not get as much sags well I want it to be wetter than that especially when I come through with my second pass I want it to completely wet out so that we've got three let's go to four now I like that because it's wetting out but not all the way and then when I come back in as a 50 percent you can see it completely wets out so for me I like four turns on my clear you can put that in your notes and depending on your temperature that day you can make adjustments now that we have that set up we're gonna hit everything that's hard first do all your jams your edges and then come in and do your Flats out on the exterior the hard part's done the clear it's not really that big of a deal to be honest if you get a run you sand the run out um we're gonna do four coats for sure and when we're done we're going to give this car ample amount of time to to dry it's going to take a very long time we're actually going to give the car back to the Builder so they can finish putting the interior and everything in it and you guys won't see this car assembled until we do the color sand and polish video which we'll do in the future also if you're going to let this sit a long time and you've made sure everything is completely flashed off take a tat cloth and make sure you go over the car in between those coats of flashing because if you have any kind of dust especially if you're in your garage get it off in between coats and it comes out so much better at the end [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] areas that's usually where you're going to get a run so this might be where you turn your tip to try to do everything in one pass so that way you don't have excessive passes if you're not as good with that then you can dial back on your needle so you're not putting out quite as much paint the goal is one wet drip so if I have it turned I'll do all of my uprights and then I'll flip it back to do the laterals [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] don't try to get everything 100 perfect on the first coat you got three more to do it's gonna flow out more and more with every coat [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] in some of these trunk areas where it's really hard to get focus on going on one Edge on one round and when you come back around for the second round point the gun in the opposite direction to get the other Edge if you try to hit it all at one time you're probably gonna get a run [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] thank you [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] that's pretty much how this is going to roll we're gonna do four coats pretty much repeat exactly what we just did all the way through three more times if you guys want to do more or less that's completely up to you just know what you want to put on so that way you can account for color sand and polish four coats on the car is what we're going to end with today I hope you guys really got something out of this by all means if you guys have questions comments you guys know where to drop them we're not going to be showing this car again until the very end probably in a couple months when we get it back with interior and everything in there where we back mask and we're going to go through all of the process of how we go back through with 600 grit all the way to 3000 grit show all the steps that we go to through with color sand and polish although we have a color sand and polish video out we've changed just about everything that we do with that process and we're going to get you guys up to date we have lots of paint videos coming we have a 56 Gasser full big flake handy paint job we have a very very high dollar FEMA build that's coming uh 49 Willis that we're going to be showing how we do the paint with that that's also a candy paint job we have 47 Cadillac convertible we have a beautiful pearl blue paint job we're going to do so if you guys haven't already if you've got something out of this the whole goal with what we do is to teach the details that nobody talks about and get you guys up to speed with what does it take to do a quality paint job yourself we started in our garage and we're just trying to share the info that we've learned over 25 years hope you guys enjoyed it please like And subscribe we'll see you guys on the next one [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] foreign [Applause] [Music]

Channel: SYLVESTERS CUSTOMS

Views: 444,461

Keywords: paint job guide, car paint, clear coat, sealer, base coat, clearcoat, painting a car at home, refinish, paint job, spray paint a car, step by step, painting for beginners, iwata, how to paint, paint gun, do it yourself, how to paint a car, painting a car, top coat, sylvesters customs, sylvester customs, metallic paint, metallic paint car, show car paint job, lincoln continental, paint and body work, Paint gun set up, car painting, how to paint your car

Id: KO8a-ryQf3o

Length: 113min 21sec (6801 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 24 2023