John Deere 9630 axle bearing failure.

hey welcome back to zk master tech today we have a 96 30 the customer was complaining that there was an oil leak out of the right front axle so we brought the tractor into the shop and we're going to check the axle in play but first we gotta take the outer duals off and slide the inner duals out and then we can get a dial indicator on the axle shaft let's check it out [Music] [Music] all right so here we're on the right front part of the axle and we're checking axle end play with the dial indicator so what you want to do is stick a dial indicator within two millimeters of this chamfer on the start of the axle here coming out of the seal and then we're going to raise and lower the tractor and see how much this axle moves up and down and it should be between zero and seven thousandths but i got a feeling it's going to be a lot let's check it out oh you could see that with your naked eye so there's all the way up or zeroed oh my slide just confirms we have a bad axle bearing [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] okay so we know we're going to be removing this front axle here and you can see how much that's been leaking and getting all over the wheel and slinging it up over on the windshield so i'm going to go ahead and drain this axle on these three plugs right here and we're mainly gonna be looking for metal and stuff on this side hopefully it's not too bad but we're gonna go ahead and get this drained see what we find that's not good this is just what i wiped off from the plug [Music] it's like a bunch of bearing material all right this pan was pretty clean before i dump that axle and you can just see all the metal that came out of this thing that's a lot of metal poopies it's not good now we're gonna go ahead and get all the other plugs drain see what comes out of them well plug number one wins so good let's check on plug number two we're gonna drain the center section of the axle here with this one okay so the center plug on the center of the axle and the left hand final were fairly clean so we know that it's mostly on the right hand side and we're going to go ahead and get this axle removed i went ahead and i fully deleted the wheels here so all we got to do is disconnect all the wiring and the hoses and the drive shaft off the axle and then we'll drop it down onto this stand all right so under here we're going to take these hoses off and there's some wiring going to the solenoids up there we're going to get this drive shaft disconnected and then i'm going to use two forklifts and chains hooked to the axle and we're going to lower this thing down on a stand okay so we got forklifts rigged up on both sides with chains and we're gonna take these bolts out here there's six on each side and then we're gonna lower the forklifts down and lower this axle onto this stand right here and then we'll be able to scooch out the axle out the side i'm gonna break these bolts loose [Music] [Music] uh [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay so we got the axle installed in a stand here and we're gonna go ahead and pull this first stage carrier and everything out of this final drive so we can get it on the bench take it apart and take a good look at everything [Music] all right so we got the ring gear out the second stage carrier and the first stage carrier and when you look down in here you can see how much metal we got inside here so we're gonna go ahead and get this housing pressed up off of this axle shaft [Music] okay so we got that housing off let's take a look at this bearing uh-oh perfect this one this one doesn't look terrible but of course it's going to get replaced anyway while we're here so i've looked over all the parts and doesn't seem like there's any other damage on the gears it's just this one bearing that came apart i mean but it's nasty so we're just gonna wear some bearings and seals and bolts and put this thing back together okay so what we're gonna do next is we gotta remove this bearing race out of here and these things are usually stuck in here pretty hard so what i'm gonna do is i'm going to weld a bead on the inside of this race and what that's going to do is it's going to shrink the race to where i can put a a driver on here and punch it out this other side and then when we go back together i got the races in the freezer right now and when we put them in the freezer um it shrinks it and then we'll be able to drive it in a lot easier you got to use thermal dynamics boys [Music] ready yeah just like that there it is now you don't have to weld a perfect bead the main purpose is putting the heat into this race on the inside and you can see how easily that drove out of there you know if you don't heat it you're gonna beat and beat and beat and never get that thing to move but just welding and being in there just releases that enough and shrinks it so it'll come out [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] okay [Music] all right there's the second one and it came right out as well all right we got that guy cleaned up and we're waiting on our races to get fully frozen we're going to go ahead and pull this shaft out of the stand so we can get a puller on this bearing and deer calls for a special eyelet and we didn't have it so sometimes you just gotta improvise and weld the lock collar to the bolt and i already got a new bolt so i got a new special tool now we got the the bearing puller 9000 on here we're going to try to yank this bearing off the shaft okay so we just stalled the 20-ton jack out on this bearing so we're going to cut this cage off and get it off out of the way and then we're going to lightly heat on this inner race and put some pressure on it to try to get it off the shaft [Music] so making a mess [Applause] so [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] well we got it off but man was it a fight we ended up having to get a torch on both sides and run two torches because the heat dissipation we're just you know heating one side by the time you got around the other side this side was already cooled you know below 300 degrees on that race so we had to get two torch tanks going and of course one of the settling tanks was empty and we had to change that so eventually we got two torches on it and heated it up enough to where that finally break free but man did it come off hard okay got a frozen race [Music] [Music] [Music] you hold this [Music] so we got our bearing cooker here aka turkey roaster and we're heating up engine oil in here it smells lovely lovely and we're about 285 [Music] 290 somewhere in there so we're gonna drunk car parts in here we got a spacer and a bearing spacer goes on first and then the bearing and this is what the seal goes around [Music] splash get a good grip on this all right i'm going to let those cook for a while it's not even close to going down [Music] i don't like it master novice [Music] foreign [Music] found it well i tell you what folks i've never had a spacer go on that hard we did several attempts of you know heating it to 300 and then slipping it on and it would just get stuck right here right at the top lip we emery clothed it many many times i even took a micrometer and checked the outside diameter it's supposed to be 4.755 to 757 and it was pretty much right on the money uh seven five five seven five six would would go over it so i knew the shaft diameter was in spec um so what i ended up doing was i found the seal driver and it actually fits this spacer ring and i just went ahead and took this spacer to 350 degrees and slipped it on and then i put that seal driver on there and just started hammering i noticed it was going down so i just went to town on that bad boy and finally got it to seat but as hard as that went on i'm real nervous about heating the bearing you know i'm gonna probably heat the bearing to 350. i just don't want to go over 400 or turn the bearing blue but we're going to take this shaft outside and it's about 32 degrees outside so we're going to let this shaft cool down because the shaft's about 70 degrees in here in the shop so we're going to use everything to our advantage possible because i don't really have a way to pound this bearing on the shaft and i don't want to beat it on like i had to that spacer so we're going to get this shaft down to 30-some degrees and then we're going to put the bearing in the cooker and we're going to get it to 360. and i'm going to put this close to the walk-out door so we can just pull that thing outside and then slip the bearing on and hopefully it'll go down and seat against that spacer let's see well we got the shaft down to 52 40 foot okay 39 40. it's about 40 45 something like that it's our bearing at 350. [Music] all right i'm getting hold of it [Music] to go [Music] i think it's there much easier right on cool i win okay now that we got that bearing on we got it set back in the stand and now we're gonna set this housing down on top of this bearing get it seated on there [Applause] [Music] oh [Applause] [Music] okay [Music] i think it's there all right inside bearing went on easy so we got that bearing seated and we put a new thrust washer in here now we're going to set the first stage carrier into place bring her down okay hold on hold on okay [Music] this is splining onto the axle shaft [Music] now normally there's shin pak that goes in here we're gonna put this retainer in and a new bolt and we're going to torque this down to 200 and then we're going to rotate this housing three times and then what that what's that going to do is it's going to seat the bearings all the way and then we'll pull this out and then we're going to put some lead balls in here and then we're going to torque them down to 200 and crush them and then we're going to get a first we'll have a baseline torque but we'll get into that here in a little bit work this bolt to 200. there's 200. stay rotate this around over here so i got the dial indicator on the end of the shaft and we're going to pick this housing up and we're going to see if it moves in it oh yeah it was quite a bit so we need to go tighter on that bolt there's 300 still about ten thousands taking it 400. you little booger i guess we're just going to go ahead and take it to 600. there's 600. it's 5 32 close 589. there's six so i went ahead and i took that bolt to 600 but what i realized was this tool here was flexing a little bit when we were picking up on it so i just went straight to the axle housing down to the bolt that goes in the shaft and now it has no movement at all when it just picks the whole assembly up the gauge doesn't move so now i know those bearings are seated and we have no input gonna be simple i'm gonna spin it to seat make sure the bearings are seated gotta go 12 times in both directions now we're going to go to zero torque okay so we back that bolt off and then it's at zero torque and we want to make sure that the housing doesn't have any preload on the bearings which it's pretty loose so now what we're going to do is get a baseline of how much force it takes to rotate that and that's what we call rolling drag so we're getting a baseline for a rolling drag now i'm just going to use a snap-on three-eighths three-eighths tech angle and it shouldn't exceed sixteen foot-pounds and we wanna just keep a constant pressure on it read what it is i would say it's nine to ten foot pounds we'll just make it easy we'll say 10. okay so i took that bolt out in this retainer and i went ahead and i put the thick washer in because we know we're gonna need that in the shim pack and i put the lead balls in grease on here and putting that extra washer in there is going to allow us to get a good crush on those lead balls so what we're going to do is put the retainer and that bolt back in and we're going to torque it down until we reach 18 foot-pounds over our baseline torque which our our baseline rolling drag was 10 foot-pounds so we're looking for somewhere around 28 foot pounds rolling drag and then we'll call it a day and then we'll pull these lead balls back out and then we're going to measure the thickness of those lead balls and that's going to give us the spec for our shim pack take this down just bolt back in okay torque this 200 now we're going to go to 200. oh yay now we got to rotate the housing 12 times in both directions now we're going to check our rolling drag again let's say we're at 18 and a half so you want to keep it moving at a slow rate because it takes a little bit more torque to get it started moving so you want to measure it while it's moving about this speed well i'd say it's about 18 and a half so we're supposed to be 12 to 18 above our baseline so we're shooting it from 22 to 28. i'm gonna be happy when it's 25 to 28. so we're going to go up another 50 foot pounds so we're going to torque that bolt to 250. check her again i think that might be it i'm gonna turn up the torque wrench a little bit put it to 30. so that's about 25. it's pretty close it's going anywhere from 22 to 26. let's get a good roll so i say right there is 25. i think if we went another 50 it'd probably be too much okay so we took the bolt out and took the this retainer out and there's our lead balls you can see that they're smashed so we're going to get those out and measure them with a micrometer and take the average of the two and that is going to be the thickness of our shim pack so the thickness of the washer was 62 thousandths and each one of our balls were 137 thousandths of an inch so that is going to give us a total of 0.199 so now we got to figure out the shin pad okay so we got our shin pack figured out um we individually measure each shim and then add them all up and we got exactly 0.199 so i put a dowel in here i'm just going to install these sims over this dowel into place put our retainer in pull it out install the bolt all right now we gotta torque this bad boy to 670 foot-pounds i've got a one-inch torque wrench here [Music] now we gotta rotate it again foreign like 24 25 which we're supposed to be between 22 and 28. i'd say 24 is the average so that's good okay so we got our torque to 670 and put this plate in there and it needed to turn just a little bit more to get it to line up into these grooves so just had to turn it just a little bit more tighter to get that lock plate in there let go so [Music] bam there you have it [Applause] so [Applause] [Music] so [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] so [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] okay so now we're ready to put this final on to the axle and i made a couple guide pins to thread in there to help with installation huh he's pointed here [Music] uh all right hold this shaft patrick grab some bolts grab that mid torque right next to your power chuck in the zippy [Music] so she's in there i put my gun on auto and it'll just run them down and stop [Applause] and we can go through and torque them all to spend so now we've got to torque each one of these bolts 170 foot-pounds plus 90 degrees so in a criss-cross pattern so what we're going to do is we're going to go through and torque all of them to 170 and then we're going to put one mark on the bolt and then we're going to change the torque wrench to 90 degrees and this will measure degrees of rotation and then we'll put a second mark once it hits 90. [Music] [Music] okay so we got the seal in on this side so this funnel is done we picked up the axle scooched her over a little bit and we went ahead and just yanked this side off and the customer decided while we had the axle out he wanted to recondition both sides replace the bearings and seals while we had the axle off because he's planning on keeping this thing for a while so he just wanted to do it all at once and make sure this whole thing was good so we've got the axle moved around back here again and we're literally going to repeat the same procedure that we just did so i'm not going to film this whole procedure because it's literally going to be the same thing minus the metal and the bad bearings in the housing so we're going to go ahead and get this thing reconditioned so i got the other side done and these bearings and spacer were even tighter on this one i had the axle shaft and i actually got this shaft down to 30 degrees and i heated that spacer up to 350 and it barely went on i mean i had to drive it hard all the way down and i had to kind of tap the bearing a little bit to get it to seat but uh we got it all set got the rolling drag set on it got all the bolts torqued to 170 plus 90 degrees and got a new seal in so this axle is ready to install so we just got to pick it up and spin it around and get it underneath the tractor and lift it up with two forklifts and bolt it into place [Music] [Music] [Music] all right well there you go she's in so now all we got left to do is you know torque these bolts down um we got to hook up the u-joint on the drive shaft got a few hoses and some electrical connections to hook up and then all we got to do is slide the tires on and drive this thing out of the shop all right that's going to do it for this video i appreciate if you guys hit the like button hit the subscribe button and keep that green iron moving guys [Music] [Music] you

Channel: ZK MasterTech

Views: 1,814,324

Keywords: John Deere, John Deere 9630, John Deere 9530, axle bearing, final drive, John Deere service technician, ag technician, 9630, ZK MasterTech, ZK mastertech, zk mastertech, millennial farmer, Larson farms, Sloan implement, tractor repair, John Deere tractor repair, ag, AgTech, Deere, axle repair, bearing replacement, bad bearing, hydraulic leak

Id: P5oXHWcLa5k

Length: 57min 8sec (3428 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 22 2021

Reddit Comments

[u/NZbeewbies]

I modified 30s axle housings with a oil jet and orifice to use the axles lube pressure to lubricate the inner bearings rather than the shitty way jd do it.

Like the 9rs have now.

Should have always been like that.