The ULTIMATE fan drive upgrade! Best way to improve your Vari-Cool fan drive! John Deere 9030 series

hey welcome back to ZK MasterTech it's a beautiful day here at sloes in Atwood Illinois um it's a busy morning we got a lot going on um I got some major projects coming um I brought the combine and they had the hydr pump um go out in the field that we hauled in um so I've got it in the shop and I'm getting ready to do repairs on it and I'm going to film that whole process but it's going to take a while to get that done um so whenever I have a big project and I usually bring in something else smaller to work on in between if I'm waiting on parts or whatever so that's what this guy is here um this is a 9530t um customer brought it in mainly for a steering complaint um he said that when you turn the steering wheel to the left it wouldn't go as far and then there was a catch in the steering wheel and then if you moved it past that catch it was really hard to turn and the same thing when you went to the right direction and I confirmed it it's bad so um I think the steering input device on the bottom of the cab is what's causing that catch and that restriction um so I did get a part order for it but it's coming from Canada so it's going to be a minute before it gets here um while it was in I went ahead and looked over the rest of the tractor um to see if there was any here I am to do fix M um and I noticed the fan Drive was puking oil like Niagara Falls so we're going to address that and um The Rocker cover is also leaking pretty bad um so we're going to put a new gasket on The Rocker cover and I'm going to bring you guys in for the journey might as well um we're going to fully update the fan drive on this so we're going to put the latest and greatest Parts on here where the customer can um be able to grease it himself easily and the the new assemblies are also balanced a lot better so it actually runs a lot smoother um with this setup and I told the customer if this was my tractor um and I was going to keep it for a while I would definitely put this new fan drive system on cuz I believe it really does make a difference so let's check it [Music] out all right so here's the steering wheel on this beast and here let's shut the door here now when you turn it feel that and then it hits the Stop and if I go the other way there's Center and when I go past center it's pretty hard to turn and it makes noises it's not supposed to make so I took this column apart and I checked the The U Joint and the shaft and everything in the steering column and it all looks good so this actually has a steering shaft that goes down through the floor into a steering um input controller so there's a electronic device that goes on the bottom of the steering column and it has position sensors in there in order to tell um the steering system you know which direction we want to turn basically and we'll get into more of that later and how that works and all the magic that's inside of that little box but the main problem is this I mean this thing should spin super easy it should spin like this but it [Music] doesn't so I got the part ordered for it so in the meantime we're going to tackle this um fan drive and get that thing updated all right so here on this 9530t we have a 13.5 L tier 3 engine um just like the one I did the oil pan on um but the fan drive on this now it's similar to the 8r I just did a fan drive on but it's different I mean it works the same but the way it works this differently cuz down here here's your drive so this is basically like a hydraulic cylinder we have a line coming in with hydraulic pressure and that line also goes to a fan control valve and so the ECU is controlling the solenoids on that fan Drive being bringing hydraulic pressure in and then this will squeeze this belt which will then cause it this part of the this is the driven Shi so it'll pull this belt in making this a smaller pulley causing this giant fan to move faster now you can see the oil buildup on this thing I mean it's got the I and it's really bad down here so if you get oil slinging anywhere in this system it's because it's leaking down here now you got two places this can leak it can either leak out here or in here and that's because the seals inside in that cylinder are bad and leaking or it can be because of this hydraulic hose or the rotary Union that's inside of this drive and I will show you that um but we got updated parts so we're going to be putting a new Drive in we're going to be putting in a new driven a new hub and then a new rotary Union kit and we're going to get this thing fully updated to where you can actually grease this guy cuz if you have this style shiv and you've got these black Springs back here this is the old style drive so if you have a shaft failure inside of here or um the bearings Waller out in this timing cover you have to update it with the new parts CU you just can't get this stuff anymore um so there's a kit where you get this driven you get a new shaft which is designed to go into a timing cover that is worn out from the old bearings so if you got an old shaft and the bearings wallered out this timing cover this new shaft will press in there super tight and so you don't have to replace this cover and then you're going to get you know two new shvs here but they're going to have um grease Cs on them where you can grease this um outside of the machine cuz the way this one's set up you actually have to take this all apart and you have to hand pack the grease inside of this thing which a lot of the times it gets neglected and doesn't get done so um these things will get powder dry and then these shs will bind and you'll have low fan speed codes stuff like that so um I did notice this thing was leaking so I know you know we needed to at least address the leak but I talked it over to the customer and gave him his option and he wanted to go ahead and just update the whole thing so that's why we're doing that and let's get into the repair okay so we got the gear wrench cart pulled up here and I like this cart cuz I can put like 80% of the tools I need in this to work in the shop and I don't have to get a whole bunch of tools out of my truck and go back and forth and then I'll get another service call and then I'll have to pack said tools back up in the truck before I can leave so I just got another tool cart and I just loaded this thing up with most of the tools I need to get you know 80% of the jobs done I might have to get you know a big pry bar or you know some random things out of the truck but nothing compared to just working out of my truck completely so I like to have you know a set aside Standalone set of tools that I can just leave in the shop so I will definitely have enough Tools in this box to get all this job done all right so the first thing we're going to do is unbolt this fan in which there's 13 mm bolts around this Hub that we're going to take out using you know 13 mm gear wrench is what I use um this is actually a blueo wrench that has a padded handle um selectable Direction and it can Flex the head it's indexing I'm really like these cuz got the padded handle and it's really girthy right here and you can get in there and it's not hard on your fingers so we're going to get in here and get these bolts loose and they're not very tight so I just break it loose and then I just pull it the rest of the way out with my fingers and I don't like to use electric ratchets in there because you can back a bolt out and then that electric ratchet can go into the cooler and poke a hole in it and cause a leak and we don't want to do that so we'll just be safe and use a wrench speaking from experience any you guys know of any good podcasts that I should listen to that's you know mechanic related I know a good one that you guys should check out and it's called the certified wrench and it's a it's mainly about field techs um the guy that does the channel he is a field tech and he just kind of talks about the life of a a field tech and I thought it was awesome it's really great it just got started I think there's only two episodes out right now but um you guys should definitely check it out and I'll leave a link in the description that'll take you to that podcast and again like I said it's called certified wrench you guys should check it out now I got all the bolts out push this fan off this Hub like this now we're going to take all the bolts off this Hub right here I like using this Snap-on 13 mm ratchet wrench because it has a slim profile head and you can get this in a lot tighter spaces than you can in normal gear wrench so I know snapon you don't everybody says you don't need Snap-on tools to do your job but sometimes it makes your life better got all the bolts out but one okay get The Hub out of the way now that the hubs out of the way now we can pull our fan out all right now we got uh 315s right here and I like to use a wrench here and you put them on this these tabs that are on here and you can hold it cuz when you're trying to break it Loose this whole thing wants to spin so that allow you to hold it steady while you break these loose and they're usually pretty tight we get broke loose and this is a 90° Milwaukee impact just zip them out and we'll just remove this shift all right so here's the red reunion here where that hose is going into so we need to use one one wrench to hold the rotary Union and the another wrench to take the line off I use a 16 and a 17 mm inch I get it on the the rotary Union first then we get it on here on the line and we break it Loose maybe help just spped off the rotor Union all right try this again there we go break that line [Music] loose take it off now once this hose is off now we can slip our our belt off all right now you can see what I was seeing this leak right here so now we're going to get this serpentine belt off because it goes around this fan drive here and we got a springloaded tensioner up here that we're going to stick a halfin drive ratchet in and pull it down and yank this belt off set it over there for now all right now we're going to take this lower drive off and we've got six bolts that are holding it to the crank just get them broke loose first all right just zipy Zip Zip okay them all pulled out now these bolts pretty long they've got these rubber seals on there and it kind of helps Center that bolt in the boore when you're going in as well I yank all these bolts out this thing ain't going to fall off trust me now I swear I recorded removing that fan drive but I must not have hit the record button I apologize about that guys but I just simply used a pry bar to just pry that out let me slide this guy off uhoh she's stuck there she blows slide this guy off the shaft all right so here's our spline shaft for our driven Shi and you can see those bushings have ate into the shaft right here there's quite a big lip right here that's why it was hard to pop that thing off and then you can also see the splines are wore pretty good I don't know if you can see it on camera or not but you can tell where it's wearing in there wearing here but mainly right here this area is not good and then you can cuz there's two bearings that go on this shaft this shaft goes slips into this timing cover and then there's a snap ring that holds it in and there's a little bit of movement there but the bearings they don't sound so hot so if this old style shaft gets damaged you have to update it to the new style so we're already know that you know this was a good idea to go ahead and do this because this wasn't going to last too much longer I've already looked inside the Shi and it's powder dry so it's a good thing we went ahead and got into here all right so here we have our driven assembly here and even though we're not reconditioning these I'm going to show you guys how to take them apart and kind of show you what I found inside of this thing so these bolts is what hold your spring assembly on 8 mm Allen and there's your spring assembly get out of here all right so this is what happens to these things see in here right next to the spines well that's your grease cavity and you can see how it just gets PW dry see there's no more lubrication in there so that's why these bushings start to wear and it starts eating into that shaft and it starts eating into these splines real bad and then this shaft can't slide back and forth well the shift can't slide back and forth on the shaft I should say and then it causes binding causing fan speed coats and you might think that this looks okay cuz there's no leaks or anything like that looking from the outside but like I said this style you have to hand pack these so if you don't take it apart you have no idea what it looks like so usually once I get these apart after they've had you know thousands of hours on them and never been touched they look like this and it can get way worse than this we actually caught this one fairly soon um but you can tell just how dry and powder you can get inside there so on these just like the 8r fan drive we have a bushing right here in seals right here and these actually have a snap ring holding these seals in it's hard to see under this dirt but you would just peel P this snap ring out pick your O-rings out pick your bushing out put new bushing in put new seals in put the snap ring back on same on the other side and then you would hand pack the grease inside here and then if your shaft was okay you just slide this back on you're ready to go for a while but I'll when we get the new parts out I'm going to show you why I like updating the Shi to the new style so here we have the lower Drive Unit take it apart flip it upside down this is the end that goes into the crankshaft so we're going to remove these two 5 mm Allens right here and this just pulls right off just like that leaves us with our hydraulic cylinder here now these seals out here this is what SEALs dirt from getting inside here and then we have oil seals so we got two dirt seals two lip seals for the oil and then we got some bushings inside there too so you just take your hands like this and just pull it off so this is our shaft here and this little this little cover right here you can it's just clipped onto here and here's our rotary Union so it actually does not feel too healthy it's a little rough but this allows this to spin and maintain a hydraulic connection right here rder Union it's what that's called so here we look at our shaft and you can see these grooves right here and you can feel them if you can feel them with your finger then this needs to be replaced because those seals will rub on This Groove and eventually wear them out causing it to leak so it rubs here and then it rubs here but most of the time I see the wear to where this shaft needs replaced is right here but you can easily feel that with your finger so even if we could recondition this and put new seals in this drive and it probably wouldn't last very long I mean it'd probably run and not leak for a little bit but eventually this is going to start leaking again and then you're going to have to do this all over again so in here see we've got our our dirt seal here this black seal right here this is our oil seal and then here's our bushing inside here here and then you've got splines right here and you got the same thing on the other side it's just bigger you got a dirt seal oil seal bushing right here but if you wanted to recondition this you would just replace the seals and the bushings and you know slap that all back together so that's how you take it apart goes back together pretty easily but we're going to go ahead and get new parts to this thing and I'm going to show you the updated stuff hey look we got new parts and look they're green nice and shiny so here we got the the drive we got a new Hub we got a new outer shift for the driven and our new inner shift for the driven and then we have a new shaft we driven that goes into the timing cover so you know this style um bearing here is to fix going into a worn out timing cover so this tractor is actually a 2011 all right so this thing is 11 years old um it's got 3,300 hours on it and basically the fan drive on this thing hasn't been touched so it ran a long time with very little maintenance so the name of the game of these new updated Parts is to have better balance and to have serviceability so on every single part it has been remanufactured to be balanced see these little drill holes even this new Hub is balanced see here's the old one it doesn't have any of that I mean even the plate that the Springs Mount to is balanced you can see here here's the difference in this drive shift you got this thicker lip around here and these little holes here look at our old one you know it's thin nothing there for balance so if we can balance this fan drive better so it spins with less vibration then we might have less problems here like where the seals and bushings eventually wear into the shaft I mean you wouldn't think that rubber and plastic would be able to rub and eat into hardened steel but it does and it can you can see it right here so the name of the game is to get these things balanced to where they run smoother so we don't wear out bushings and seals and then we're also gaining service ability look what we got right here we got a greaser so now we can Grease the sh without having to take it apart so annually for 500 hours we're going to grease this Shi here and then on our new shaft we have a pop off relief valve here so the grease is going to come out of the into the shaft so every time you know we change the oil or once a year whatever works best for your operation now we can grease this upper shev and with this updated fan drive here we we're able to run smoother so hopefully these seals last longer and I tell you what I've put these on it does make a difference you actually feel a difference in the engine and it does run smoother so so I am a firm believer in this I think it does work a lot better and then this kit of course we get a new little washer here we get a new timing cover gasket cuz we're going to take the timing cover um the outer cover off which is not a big deal so we can press that shaft in and we also have a new rotary Union kit so this is an improved rotary Union and it comes with a vent hose and a new uh steel braided line and we'll get more into that later um but this setup right here I think it costs about $2,700 and some change um but eventually if you're going to keep the tractor long term this is going to pay for itself cuz you know if you have to rebuild this once or twice and maybe rebuild this once or twice you know eventually this is all going to pay for itself so if you're going to keep tractor longterm it's a good idea to just go ahead and update this stuff um but if you got a problem in the driven you you can't get parts for this old stuff anymore especially if the shaft's damaged so they're just subbing these parts to the new style um so uh you can still get the old Parts um to recondition this lower drive you can get bushings and seals for this and put that back together but in this customer situation you know it was a good idea to go ahead and upgrade to this new system so he can run a long time and not have to worry about it and can properly maintain um The Driven shiv without having to take it apart so I think it's well worth the money and another note that I have you know one thing I think is cool that deer does is they update parts for tractors that are not new anymore I mean this tractor is 11 years old and they are still improving on parts now a lot of guys say well they should have just had this to begin with they should have done this to start with and then I get a lot of comments on how um the engineering design is flawed well I'm not an engineer I have no control over design you know my mission is to do the very best job for my customers that I possibly can so the only thing I have control over is to either fix what they have what's on there and then how I can improve for what they have so I can you know show them how to fix it or I can show them how to improve it these are the only options that I have available to me so you know that's why I'm I'm doing this video is to show what I can do what I have control over I don't have any input on design you know I can't control that all I can do is fix it okay now we have to deal with this shaft here and it goes into this timing cover so um if we're in the heat of battle and this is you know middle fall spring whatever you know I can replace this shaft in the field you know I slip a piece of pipe over here and then I have a plate out on the end and then I run the three bolts that the driven outer Shi uses and then I just run them in there and it actually works as a puller and it will pull this shaft and bearings out of this cover and then you can put the new style in there but you ain't got a whole lot of room to be swinging a hammer in here and I I told you it goes in hard um but what I use to put them in is a air hammer so I'll get that shaft in there I'll clean that hole real good the best I can and then I'll take an air hammer and I'll just work the the outer race to try to drive this thing in we're not in the heat of battle right now so we're going to do this right and we're going to take this cover off here so we can pull the shaft out and then we can put this in a press to where we can press this in nice and easy you know we might as well but in order to get this cover off um you know we got some things that are attached that's got to come off um like this coolant bracket here and a clamp um the AC compressor is bolted on there and the shield above it um but we can sneak some bolts out and just kind of push it out of the way um we'll remove the alternator you know this this is not a big deal you know this is probably you know 30 minutes of work we can have this thing out and get it on a bench and onto a press and we can do this job right so um let's C some music and a time lapse maybe [Music] sure [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] all right now we got the timing cover removed and that literally took me like 10 minutes you know you just got to get this bracket loosened up here to where you can Flex this to get the cover and this bolt out right here and then just taking all the bolts off and then taking the two uh compressor bolts out that are mounted to this little cast piece that also bolts into the um the timing cover there and removing the alternator and the shields off that side but it's not that big of a deal to get that off there and now we can work on the bench and press that shaft in correctly all right now we're going to take the big Snapp ring out of here I can find it through all the dirt where are you at these holes are just covered in dirt here here we go like that there's always time for lubrication now just take a 6in pipe place it over that got a plate it's the same bolt pattern as the shaft try to get these bolts started now we just start tightening these bolts [Applause] d okay got that shaft out and it came out pretty hard so you can see this is our old shaft here new shaft here so as you can tell that this isn't going to seat in the same spot as this so this is the secret why this will go into a warn cover cuz there's more than one Groove in here so instead of seating clear back down in here we're going to seat right here and right here because this has never had anything sitting in it before so if this was worn out we got another groove right here where we can put this new shaft in there so that's why you can put this into a worn timing cover cuz you got an extra um race I should say in this hole that you can put that shaft in [Music] okay so we gave this timing cover a bath and then we press this shaft in now we're going to install the snap ring that was supplied [Applause] okay now we're going to replace this seal here so the seal has a double notch on it it goes right here so you get your double Notch lined up there's another notch up here you just start working it in all right now we're going to slap that timing cover back on and we got the famous Justin sap going to help us put this in you're going have to grab it all right get we're going to kind of tuck it in under this now LIF it up you got to pry it needs to go out that way there you go slide it on I think that Bolt's Too Short you leave that and grab a longer one that one's way too long okay one in between that I can't give him too much crap I took the bolts out he didn't okay try that one yeah that's more like it all right now it'll hold itself okay so now we got all the bolts snug now we're going to torque it to 50 ft-lbs we're going to start at the bottom and crisscross all our way up to the top all right now we got this torqued to 50 foot- PBS and now we're going to put all the accessories back on Boom my snap's working good now we're going to install the new style rotary Union so you put this spring in the hole first then I took some grease and libed up my O-rings a little bit push that in now we're going to put an o-ring in so it's on the top and here's the tricky part you got these little plastic half moon pieces and they got to go together like that you got to tuck them in underneath this guy you got to get them in lace just right like that sometimes you got to pull up on that rotary inion just a little [Music] bit and try to seat it down like that okay so now we got to put the the snap ring in in this hole we're going to squeeze it and we're going to try to we're going to push down and then let go at the same time now we got that red reion ready to go and the vent Line's going to go in this hole and then our hydraulic Line's going to go in this hole but now this is ready to go into the tractor now we're going to install the new fan Drive and we're just going to wiggle it in till it fully seats like that stick our new bolts in now I'm going to turn it and put pressure on this bolt till I feel it click in a hole just like that let start it by fingers so I'm going to start these a little more with the ratchet just to make sure I've got good thread engagement cuz you don't want to screw up the threads in the crank that's a bad day is now we're going to torque them to 96 foot [Music] [Music] PBS [Music] now [Music] [Music] torqued so I prease the shift filled the grease cavities going slide this guy on gently I'm going to show you a secret thread this plate in that you used to pull the shaft with get in the holes there we go cuz it's really hard to shove this um new shev and these new seals onto the sh and you ain't got a whole lot of room in here to work okay this allow you to hold the shaft kind of turn this cuz we got to get the spine the line but this will also give you a place to try like that all right now we're I think we're up against the splines a little bit turn it I feel it kind of catch oh I whack the camera in the process yeah there you go that's the secret to getting that guy on easily all right now at this point in time you don't want to forget you want to slip this belt in here cuz once you get this all on and your your new hose reconnected you can't slip this in here and you will be cussing yourself if you forget this just at least you know slip it in here just like that so you can do it later but now we can go ahead and finish the rest of this now we're going to spread this lower shiv all the way [Music] open all right now we can get our fan belt in there here's another secret of the trade take a small 2x4 wedge it in right there and that'll hold that belt where it needs to be so you can get this outer Shi on easier all right now we're going to put the the outer shev on I get these bolts lined up is the trick here maybe okay it's kind of tricky to get these bolts started there's two this one doesn't want to start secret is trying to get that that shiv straight fully Seated on the shaft cuz if it's crooked at all it won't go in the hole and thread There She Goes we're just going to run them down a little bit now take our board out bottom here and we're going to grab on one of these tabs here just rotate it a little bit help try to Center that belt burn it a little more cuz if you keep hammering down it'll it'll kind of put the shiv in a bind cuz you're just you're squeezing that belt [Music] hands are in right there just kind of rotate it okay we're going to torque those 96 as [Music] well get that held on [Music] there all right now we're going to change this hydraulic line for the steel braided line so we're just going to break it right here install that new braided line and then attach it to the rotary Union so now we're going to hook up the new style line using this banjo fitting slip a seal over it and you stick it through the line and then you put another seal on it and then you're going to thread that into the big hole of the rotary Union okay now we're going to put this vent line on and we got a similar stop bolt but we got little plastic seals on it now you notice this bolt is Tiny and it's also Hollow and it doesn't take a lot of torque for you to just snap this thing off um if you look at this thing wrong or breathe on it it will break um I've had trouble with these actually coming loose and coming out um if you lose this bolt it's going to cost you $102 cuz the only way to get it is to get a whole new uh row reunion seal kit and that seal kit cost $102 I know it's ridiculous so we're going to do this right so we're going to stick the bolt through the fitting put the other seal on and then before we put this on I'm going to put a little bit of low strength locktite on these threads just a little bit and then when you and this is a 516 here when you thread this in and you tighten it with a wrench you're going to tighten it until you can't swivel this anym more and then stop cuz if you go anymore it'll just snap this bowl off like it's nothing so I just thread it in there and get it tight enough to where this isn't going to swivel anymore and then I call it a day all right so when you get done it's going to look just like this and then you're going to zip tie that um vent line to follow the oil supply line all the way down to there here that's how you set that up now we can toss our fan in and we'll bolt our our Hub on to the fan driven outer shave and then we'll Bolt the fan onto here and then we'll be done and I almost forgot we're going to go ahead and grease the shiv before we put this Hub on cuz I want to get grease coming out of this hole to make sure we're fully greased on this thing before we put the Hub on cuz once you put the Hub on then you can't see it anymore there she is we'll let her Purge out a little bit wipe that off and then we can put the Hub on all right so this is the grease that I'm putting in here and this is the extreme Duty synthetic grease and this is the only thing you want to put in your fan drive and the S the factory recommended service interval on this is every 250 hours um you can do it at 100 hours but a maximum at 500 hours so if you want to grease this every 100 you can the recommend is 250 the maximum is 500 and use this all right so the fan is on and I'm going to go ahead and run this I'm going to go up in the cab and I'm actually going to change an ECU address to command this to full speed um should hit about 1,800 RPM at wide open throttle and hopefully it doesn't blow my camera over [Applause] [Applause] all right so that thing the speed range went from 450 at idle and then I commanded it to full speed and then I went up to full throttle and at wide open throttle that fan is turning 194 RPM that's moving some air now and you as you could see you probably see this cylinder this lower fan Drive squeezing in and then that belt going in side of that driven making that fan go faster and I noticed a big difference it does actually run smoother cuz I ran the engine before and after and now it feels like the engine's actually smoother you know makes a big difference when all these cast components are balanced all right that's going to do it on today's video please like And subscribe to the channel and hit that notification Bell so you don't miss any updates that I have and uh we just got to put the shields on this tractor and then we're done with the fan Drive portion of this machine um when I get some more parts in for the rocker cover gasket and the steering input controller um I'll do another video so you guys want to stick around for that but right now I need to get back on this combine and start these Hydro repairs it's going to take a while so just be patient with me I will get that video out I just got to get this combine moving again and then you'll see the video but thanks for watching guys guys until next time keep that Green Iron [Music] moving

Channel: ZK MasterTech

Views: 236,319

Keywords: John Deere, Tractor, track tractor, 9530T, 9560RT, large tractor, fan drive, vari-cool fan drive, John Deere service technician, John Deere ag technician, American muscle, tools, snap on, Milwaukee tools, ZK MasterTech, ZK mastertech, tillage, monster tractor, High horsepower tractor

Id: griXlL6nXPA

Length: 57min 27sec (3447 seconds)

Published: Fri Jan 21 2022