Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with
more of the best of Europe. This time, we're rebuilding
medieval terraces here on
the most beautiful stretch of the Mediterranean coastline, Italy's Cinque Terre. The Cinque Terre is five
little towns like this, beautifully isolated
in the most seductive stretch of the Italian Riviera. For me, the best bits of Italy
are traffic-free, and in this unique mix of
Italian culture and nature, there's not a Fiat in sight. We'll explore five rugged,
little port towns, ride a wine train
high into the vineyards, make pesto in its birthplace, dive from spectacular cliffs... Whoo! Buy flowers from
a singing florist... [Singing in Italian] And hike, soaking up
more sun and scenery than you can imagine. In the south of Europe
is Italy, and between Florence and Genoa
lies the Cinque Terre. We'll see
all five towns, starting in Vernazza. Then we hike to Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore before catching the boat to Monterosso al Mare. The Cinque Terre,
which means "Five Lands," was originally described
in medieval times as "the five castles." Tiny communities
like this grew up in the protective shadows
of their castles, their people ready
to run for refuge at the first hint
of a Turkish pirate raid. As the threat of pirates faded,
the communities grew, with economies based on fish,
olives, and grapes. Today, the big employer
is tourism. Each rugged little town is a
variation on the same theme -- a well-whittled pastel jumble
of homes filling its ravine. These days, the castles, which used to protect the towns
from marauding pirates, guard only glorious views. This 10-kilometer stretch
of the Italian Riviera is the rugged alternative to the more glitzy
Riviera resorts nearby. The traffic-free charm is a happy result
of its natural isolation. Just sun, sea, sand --
well, pebbles -- and people. For me, this is Italy
at its most relaxed. For a home base, choose
among the five villages. Each has a distinct
personality, gently and steadily
carving a good life out of the difficult terrain. You approach the Cinque Terre
by train through long, dark tunnels. Explosions of Mediterranean
brightness hint at the wonders to come. Milk-run trains tie
the villages to each other and to the outside world. The first train line
cutting through this tough, mountainous
coastline was an engineering marvel
for its day. It was carved out
of these mountains just after the unification
of Italy back in the 1870s. Built with the same determined
spirit that united Italy, this train line literally
helped tie together the newborn country's
diverse regions. We start in Vernazza,
where the big news is the hourly arrival
of the train, bringing an almost rhythmic
surge of visitors into town. There's one main street. It runs from its train station down to the sea. Of the five towns, Vernazza has the closest thing
to a natural harbor. The old castle no longer says
"stay away." Instead, it seems to welcome
people-packed excursion boats. Settle into a comfy spot
on the breakwater. Study the arrangement man
and nature have carved out here over the last 15 centuries. Crumpled hills come
with topographical lines, a terraced, green bouquet of cactus, grapevines,
and olive trees blanketing
the surrounding hills. Each town is honeycombed
with a range of rooms apartments, and small hotels. Rentable private rooms,
called "camere", are the best values
throughout the Cinque Terre. This gang rented a place
with a homey living room and a small
but fully equipped kitchen. This couple chose a perch
right above the piazza. [Bell ringing] The adjacent church bells
chime through the day, but thanks to an agreeable
town priest, they're silent
through the night. In Vernazza,
the action is at the harbor, where you'll find a kids' beach,
plenty of sunning rocks, and a wealth of cafes
and restaurants. Like a breakwater keeps out the waves at the bottom
of town, a gate stops traffic
at the top. No cars enter this village
of 600 residents, except early on Tuesdays
when trucks and vans roll in for the weekly
tailgate-party street market. While most tourists
are still in their rooms, villagers, some who've never
set foot in a modern mall, do their shopping. The mobile market serves
a different town each day. The flower stand
is a family affair. For 20 years of Tuesdays, the Lombardo family
has set up right here. And the son, Eros, florist by
day and opera singer by night, sells flowers with
a dramatic flair. [Singing in Italian] [Applause] The people of these towns
are proud of their heritage. They brag that, while big-time
Riviera resorts nearby sold out, the Cinque Terre
is still locally owned. The families remain tight,
and they go back centuries. Until the coming
of the train and tourism, these towns were very remote and heavily dependent
upon the sea. Even today,
traditions survive, While nothing
like past generations, small-scale fishermen
still earn their living working their nets
while the tourists play. And each day, restaurateurs
count on these men to keep their diners
smacking their lips. And each of the five villages
actually retains a distinct dialect. Every village
have a different dialect. What's an example? Example, for talk
about "married," in Vernazza is
"sposato." "Sposato." And if you're married
in Riomaggiore? "Accompagnato." Very different. So when you hear somebody, you
know what village they live in. Yes, sure. From the main street,
you can pop in to a series of narrow-stepped
lanes, called "carrugi". These zigzag every which way. In the densest parts of town, these lanes became
interior passages. If you keep climbing,
eventually, you'll pop out up at the top
near the castle, handy for fleeing attacks. The castle is nicknamed
Belforte, "the place of loud screams,"
for the warnings shouted from its tower
back in pirating days, A tower has stood guard
here for a thousand years. Visitors climb to the top
for the view and to imagine past raids. Today, the castle functions
as a tourist lookout, a perch from which local
daredevils dive... [Cheering] And a restaurant. And the fort's lowest deck
is perfect for a romantic meal. For a sweet dessert wine, sip
the local "Sciacchetrà". It's served with biscotti,
ideal for dunking. Savor the view
and the unforgettable setting. But this
submarine-strength door hints that the weather's
not always so calm. Mammoth waves can
slam into this wall. And as photos inside attest, winter storms can engulf
the entire tower in waves. Life here is subject to
the dictates of the weather, and the people
of the Cinque Terre know the weather by the wind. -"Bellissima giornata.
" -Una bellissima giornata. It is nice. Yes, but I think that
the weather will be changed. Yeah, why? Because we have now a wind from
Syria, called "scirocco". Normally, the seas
will be too rough. Then, after "scirocco",
we have a wind from Libya, called "libeccio". And that storm come in
from the sea. -So, from Libya,
"libeccio". -Yes. -From Syria...
-"Scirocco". STEVES:"Scirocco".
Bad news. Yes, yes. And, normally, we have,
after "libeccio", the wind from the north,
called "tramontana". STEVES:"Tramontana". This wind coming down from
the north and cleaning the sky. You'd be, again,
"una bellissima giornata." -Good for the tourists.
-Yes, for us. So if you know the wind... In Cinque Terre,
if you know the wind, you don't need the weatherman. But the weatherman was no help when a freak rainstorm hit
the region in October, 2011. Like many towns
built in a ravine, Vernazza paved over the stream
that once divided the town in order to build this
people-friendly main drag. The city was buried in an angry
torrent of mud 10 feet deep. With the steep hillside
serving as a giant funnel, the flash flood
overwhelmed the tunnel containing the town's stream. While every street-level
business in town was destroyed, the townsfolk have rebuilt and are careful to keep their
expanded drainage system ready for the next episode
of violent weather. Vernazza has recovered, and its main square
has some of the region's finest restaurants. And we're settling down for the
classic dishes of the region -- pasta with pesto and anchovies. MAN: "Gnocchi con pesto". The pesto is a local sauce,
it's come from Liguria, the region where we are now. When you come here,
you must try pesto. Basil, which loves this
temperate Ligurian climate, awaits its fate in the mortar. Fresh garlic, sea salt, and toasted pine nuts get
mashed into a fine paste first. Then the basil is added. Gradually,
the chef works it all into a rich, green sauce. Like so many Italian dishes, virgin olive oil
is mixed in. The pesto is finished with
freshly grated Parmesan cheese. And then it's
poured over the pasta. Tonight, we're enjoying it
on gnocchi. [Laughs] The most typical
main course here -- fish. "Acciughe", or anchovies,
are a regional specialty, served the day they're caught. If you've always
hated anchovies -- the harsh, cured-in-salt
American kind -- try them here, fresh and cooked
in a variety of ways. -"Acciughe". "Grazie".
-Enjoy. From each town stretches
steep terraced hills. The ingenious monorail wine
train, called a "trenino", carries workers
high above the villages where small family vineyards
are tended with knowing care. The Cinque Terre takes pride
in its white wine. Traditional farming techniques
are complemented with modern know-how, as the delicate vines
are prepped in anticipation
of a hot growing season. Historically, each family
has its own small vineyard. With the lure
of the modern world, it's not easy to keep these labor-intensive
traditions alive, but those who appreciate
the heritage of their land seem determined
to keep things going. These hillsides have been
terraced for centuries. Someone, perhaps after drinking a bit
too much of the local wine, calculated that
the Cinque Terre has over 4,000 miles
of dry stone walls, Built without mortar, they require regular
maintenance. The dry stone masons
of the Cinque Terre are famed for their skill
at artfully building and preserving the trails
and terraces. And the craft survives
to this day, with skilled artisans
like Giuliano Basso. [Bell ringing distantly] All five villages are connected
by scenic trails, much enjoyed by visitors. From Vernazza,
the trail leads dramatically along the coast and through
the vineyards. One of the essential
Cinque Terre experiences is to get out and hike. The trails are rough
but manageable. Sure, there are plenty
of ups and downs, but with these views,
it's well worth it. The village of Corniglia,
perched on a ridge, sparkles in the distance. Corniglia, the one town
not on the water, feels more remote
than its sisters. With a church overlooking
its intimate main square, A couple of restaurants, and a handful
of private rooms for rent, it has a relaxing vibe. Since Roman times, Corniglia has been noted
for its wine-making. To this day,
many families still make a little wine in their cellar, and if you manage
to get invited in, you'll enjoy an education
and, of course, a taste. "-Quanti litri qui?
-Cinquantaquattro." 54 liters, that's a lot. "Vino della Cinque Terre." "No, vino della Corniglia." "-Corniglia o Cinque Terre.
" -That's better. [Laughs] [Speaking Italian] STEVES: At the windy end
of town is a belvedere, a breathtaking lookout perched
high above the sea. From here, you can scout
the rest of your trek and see your next stop, Manarola. There's one main path,
so you won't get lost. Trails can be congested. Minimize crowds and heat by hiking early or late. As the area is
a national park, you'll pay a nominal
admission fee and enjoy
better-maintained trails and a more pristine
countryside. Whether strolling
through shady olive groves, enjoying wide-open vistas, or pausing for
a little sunbathing on your own private rock, the hike is a delight. Manarola is petite
and picturesque, a tumble of buildings
filling its ravine above a craggy port. The tiny harbor,
with its modern breakwater, does double duty, serving both fishermen
and fun seekers. Whoo! Cliff-diving for beginners
is popular here. In the Cinque Terre,
everyone enjoys great views, and that includes the dead. I'm joining my friend Monica
on one of her visits to the cemetery perched
high above her town. Ever since Napoleon, who crowned himself king of
Italy in the early 1800s, declared cemeteries
are health risks, people in these villages have buried their loved ones
outside the towns. The result -- dramatically situated
cemeteries high in the hills. With evocative photos and finely carved
memorial reliefs, any are worth a visit. In cemeteries like these,
some are buried in a graveyard, while most are in niches
called "loculi." The sanctuary is quietly busy with locals remembering
lost loved ones. When you come to the cemetery,
it's like visiting your family. MONICA: Yes, my family,
my friends. I know everyone here. STEVES: So, do you have
relatives here in this wall? MONICA: Yes, here I have
my grandparents. STEVES: Ah, Licardi. Armando. MONICA: My grandfather
and my grandmother. STEVES: Each one is
a little bit different. It has a personality. MONICA: Exactly. Every one, want the people,
have something like before. And people are coming
every month, every year? -No, every week.
-Every week. Every week,
and it's not necessary to cry when you are here. You are happy
because you are together with the people of your family,
with your friends. Lina is the first
bed and breakfast in Vernazza. She rent room, for the first
time, to American people. Here is an American boy. STEVES: Look at that,
with his rolling suitcase. MONICA: Exactly, exactly. And Lina is waiting in the main
road for someone arrive. Here I have Massimo
grandparents. STEVES: This is your husband's
grandparents. Exactly. They died, both, in one week. Within one week. And here I have my cousin, Sauro. STEVES: Oh. The flood came
and took him away. MONICA: Exactly. And they found Sauro in France. In France. Manarola is connected
to the next town by the Via Dell'amore,
or "Walkway of Love." It's the easiest
stretch of the hike and a good place
from which to savor your own private piece
of Mediterranean coastline. Enjoying this stroll,
it's easy to understand why so many artists and romantics
are drawn to this region. The next town hides
just around the corner. Riomaggiore, while bigger than the towns
we've seen so far, is another cozy collection
of homes nestled in a valley. The tangle of pastel houses
lean on each other as if someone
stole their crutches. The colors of these villages
are regulated by a commissioner of good taste
from the community government. For those hiking the trails, an ideal snack
is a slice of focaccia. Focaccia originates here, in the region of Liguria. The baker stretches dough
to fit the pan, roughs it up with finger holes, adds a few simple ingredients,
perhaps tomatoes and olives, drizzles olive oil, and splashes it
with salty water, Hot out of the oven, the focaccia comes
in several varieties and is a local favorite for a quick snack to go. "-Grazie.
" -Grazie. -Ciao.
-Bye. While you can hike or ride
the train between towns, you can also catch the boat. If the weather's calm, hourly boats link
the Cinque Terre towns. After a hike, it's fun
to survey what you've explored. There's Manarola. And Corniglia,
safely on its hilltop. And from my boat, I can almost
see our apartment in Vernazza. Last stop for this boat,
the "numero cinque" of our Cinque Terre tour
is Monterosso al Mare. This is the most
resorty town of the group. With cars, larger hotels,
rentable umbrellas, and the best beach around. If you want the kind of beach
scene that leaps to mind when you hear the word
"Riviera," you'll find it here. Warm water,
colorful umbrellas, plenty of bodies soaking up
that Mediterranean sun, and an inviting promenade. Complimenting Monterosso's
happy beach scene is Restaurant Miky. And my son, Andy, is joining us for the region's most elegant
dining experience. While tourism has brought
a new affluence here, even high-end places
are still family run. The father, Miky,
runs the kitchen with an impressive mix
of artistry and precision. Meanwhile,
the mother and daughter help wait tables
and charm their guests. Miky's pasta is cooked
with a unique twist, capped with pizza dough and finished
in a wood-fried oven. Sara is bringing us
the house specialties and making sure we know
what we're eating. -It's delicious.
"-Buon appetito." When our pasta arrives
and the crust is broken, the steamy aroma heralds
a taste treat to come. [Laughs] And to cap a great meal, chef Miky drops by
as we're enjoying our traditional
"sciacchetrà" and biscotti. "Complimenti.
" Tutti delicioso. From the beach resort half
of Monterosso, a tunnel leads under the castle
and into the old town. Here you'll find more
restaurants, characteristic shops, and a world of colorful lanes. Sure, it's touristy,
and virtually every storefront caters to visitors' needs, but there's a low-key ambience
where you're reminded that we're all
in this life together, so let's enjoy the moment. It's "aperitivo" time, and as everywhere in Italy
right about now, families are out,
kids and parents, children enlivening
main squares. One tradition that thrives
oblivious to all the tourism is that special time when
people are out, socializing, enjoying the cool
of the early evening. Back in Vernazza, I'm enjoying the
"passeggiata" with Irene. -"Buonasera".
-Ciao. Ciao, Maria, ciao. STEVES: A stroll here, especially with a local friend
who knows everyone in town, gives a good insight into this
close-knit Italian community, a community that
I've been visiting since all of us
were a lot younger. "Mi scusi!" Ciao, Antonio. [Laughs] There's my friend. Does this bench have
her name on it? -Uh, yes.
-This is your bench. [Speaking Italian] [Laughter] Italy's Cinque Terre
is an irresistible mix of nature, culture,
and human activity. Well-worn locals,
sunburned travelers, and inviting,
family-friendly piazzas. Sure, the place is now
well-discovered, but I have never seen happier,
more laid-back tourists. While the Cinque Terre
now endures the storms of the modern world, the region's charms
are as endearing as its people are resilient. [Bell ringing] And even today,
when the church bells ring, the fishermen at sea and the grape pickers
up in the hills look back at their village, and they know Italy
is still Italy. Thanks for joining us. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time,
keep on travelin'. "Ciao." If you know the wind... If you know the wind
in Cinque Terre, you don't need a weatherman. [Laughing] Sorry. No. That's perfect!
No, it's great! CAMERAMAN: All
right, I'm rolling. STEVES: ♪ I'm going where
the water tastes like wine ♪ ♪ Stay drunk all the time ♪ In Cinque Terre,
you don't need a weatherman. [Laughing]
