Hi, I'm Rick Steves back with more of the
best of Europe. This time we're traveling in Northern Europe,
where the mountains meet the sea - it's the best of Western Norway. Thanks for joining us. Rugged is putting it mildly when it comes
to 80 percent of Norway. Historically, it was a challenging place in
which to live. That's why Vikings ventured south and that's
why so many people here chose to leave and settle in America. But today, when you explore the west of Norway
- with its majestic mountains and fjords - you'll find plenty of reason not to leave...but to
visit. We start in what's called Giant's Country
- Jotunheimen. High in the mountains, we'll hike on Europe's
biggest glacier, then descend into fjord beauty. We'll take scenic cruises, see how medieval
peasants lived...and where they worshipped, before enjoying Norway's historic capital
with its Hanseatic heritage, a little high Norwegian culture, and its rugged love of
life. Norway is long and skinny. It stretches nearly the length of America's
west coast. We'll zero in on the scenic west - along the
biggest of the fjords, Sognefjord, with stops in Jotunheimem, the Jostedal Glacier, Solvorn,
Flam, Balestrand, and Bergen. This is Jotunheim or home of the giants - a
high plateau that feels like the top of the world. These are northern Europe's highest peaks
and they're steeped in Norse legends and folk lore. This is the land of Thor and Odin whose spirits
still inhabit the misty peaks. For centuries villagers trekked across this
pass to reach the coast. It was an arduous journey. But, today crossing it's a pleasure. At 4,600 feet, the Sognefjell road is Norway's
highest pass. At this latitude, even these modest altitudes
take us high above the tree line with snow through the summer. Norway's lunar-like mountain-scapes and deep
fjords were shaped by glaciers that covered most of the Continent 10,000 years ago. Europe's largest surviving glacier, Jostedal
is still hard at work. It covers 180 square miles and - though shrinking
- is still mighty. Of the many tongues of the glacier, this one
- called Nigardsbreen - offers the best visit. The valley comes with a quintessential glacier
view. The approach includes a cruise across the
glacial lake. The scale is enormous and blue cliffs of ancient
ice dwarf awestruck visitors. Park guides lash on crampons and rope up adventurous
travelers in preparation for an icy hike. While there are more demanding Nigardsbreen
routes, I'm joining a family hike - just an hour, but offering a unforgettable experience
and bringing you face to face with the power and majesty of nature. While tentative at first, hikers soon gain
confidence in their crampons as they climb high onto the glacier. 75 years ago, this glacier filled most of
this valley. Guides teach a respect for nature and any
visit heightens one's awareness of the impact of climate change. Rivers of ice like this carved huge valleys
creating the defining feature of Norway's landscape - the fjords. Those glaciers - as much as a mile thick - spent
eons carving up western Norway as they worked their way to the sea. Slowly, they gouged u-shaped valleys that
later filled with water. The distance from seabed to mountaintop around
here is as much as 9000 feet - nearly two vertical miles. Dramatic waterfalls continue to cut into the
mountains. This viewpoint makes sure car hikers get out
and appreciate the view. Sognefjord is Norway's biggest and that's
the one we're exploring. Of its many arms, the most scenic is called
Nærøyfjord. Rain or shine, traditional ferries offer a
relaxing yet thrilling fjord experience. These ferries, while popular with tourists,
are the lifeline of many fjord-side communities. Some remote farms are connected to the outside
world only by ferry. Mail is dropped and visitors come and go by
request. And the visual highlight of this ride, Nærøyfjord
is ten miles long and breathtakingly narrow - as little as 800 feet wide. Guide: So we ready to go? Rick: Let's go! For an exhilarating alternative, we're suiting
up for a much speedier tour with the Fjord Safari company. Survival suits keep everyone cozy and comfortable
at thrillingly high speeds. Our guide, Rune, knows all the interesting
stops. Man: Long way down. Rick: Long way down! Guide: So this is what \makes this fjords
in Norway so special, cause it's steep, steep walls down in the fjord everywhere. And this glacier's a very big glacier. And this is only a little part of the glacier
so it continues 100 meters down, it's very deep there. This western region is important to the people
of Norway. After four centuries of Danish rule, the soul
of the country was nearly lost. Then with independence and a constitution
in the early 1800s, there was a national resurgence and people from the cities celebrated their
Norwegian-ness by coming here to fjord country. Along with those first tourists came artists. Romantic painters and writers were inspired
by the mountains plunging into the fjords and by the dramatic light. Paintings romanticized both the nature and
the traditional folk life it fostered. For a present day taste of this romanticism,
I like the mellow town of Solvorn with its dramatic fjord-side setting. This sleepy village, with colorful boathouses
lining its waterfront, seems contentedly trapped in the past. Solvorn's charming Walaker Hotel harkens back
to the early days of tourism. A former inn and coach station, it's been
in the family since 1690. And nine generations later, Ole Henrik keeps
the tradition alive. A charming ambiance pervades the place. Relaxing before dinner, guests feel right
at home in the salon. Dinner, served in this genteel elegance, caps
a beautiful day. The menu is modern Norwegian. It's based on local ingredients - many of
them pulled right out of the fjord. We're starting with scallops from just off
shore. On a summer evening the twilight lingers causing
people to do the same. Our main course is arctic char from the north
of Norway. To enjoy the full effect of this fjord-side
setting, I take my coffee and dessert out to the porch. The berries, picked right out of their garden,
go perfectly with the view. The most scenic train ride in all of northern
Europe connects visitors from Oslo and Bergen to all this wonder by climbing over the mountainous
spine of Norway. The Trans-Norway line, an engineering marvel
when completed in 1909, was important because it laced together the nation. Today tourists follow the same route with
a series of efficient connections enjoying a quick and easy dose of Norway's best scenery. Along with a scenic boat ride up Nærøyfjord,
a highlight is this little train that takes travelers from the main line in the mountains
steeply down to the fjords. This popular day trip is nicknamed "Norway
in a Nutshell." Passengers savor every scenic moment. Scenes glide by like a movie. The train stops at a misty waterfall. The surprise appearance of mythic Nordic water
maidens titillates tourists. As we descend into the fertile valley, farms
appear. Finally, the train hits the fjord, where passengers
catch a ferry for the next leg of Norway in a Nutshell. Travelers with their own wheels can dig deeper
into fjord country - just like those glaciers did in the last Ice Age. For me, driving in Norway can be treacherous
- not because of the speed or traffic - but because of the scenery...it's simply hard
to keep your eyes on the road. In this rugged terrain, tunnels and fjord
crossings provide valuable shortcuts. Little car ferries make strategic crossings,
allowing even the driver to fully enjoy the views. And tunnels - this one's the world's longest
for cars, at 15 miles - save lots of time. To help drivers stay awake, there are rest
chambers with colored lights mid-tunnel. Norwegians are making massive infrastructure
investments to link their people and industries.. While breath-taking scenery is everywhere
you look, the history is harder to see. For most of its past, Norway was extremely
humble. While wealthier parts of Europe were building
grand churches and castles of stone, most of Norway's architecture was made of wood. Fires were almost routine, and little survives
from centuries past. This is the wet and wild homeland of the Vikings
- whose culture lasted about three centuries from roughly 800 to 1100. Setting sail from here, in their tough boats,
they settled Iceland, Greenland, and even made it to America. And Viking raiders terrorized much of Europe
for generations. This mound marks the grave of one of those
Viking rulers. Like the Egyptians, the Vikings believed in
a life after death. And they believed you could take it with you. That's why when graves are excavated, archeologists
find everything from jewelry and weapons to cooking pots and even boats. The end of the Viking age with its pagan Norse
gods is marked by the coming of Christianity to Norway in the 12th century. Those medieval Norwegians, now tamed, took
their boat-building skills and rather than sleek ships to raid in, they built fine wooden
churches to pray in. These traditional Norwegian churches are called
stave churches. While there were over a thousand such churches
in Norway back in the 1300s, today, only a couple dozen survive. The Borgund Stave Church is one of the best. Stave churches were supported by stout pine
poles - or "staves" - and slathered with a protective coat of black tar. Wood was plentiful
and cheap. While the basic design reflects the simple
technology of the age, more elaborate examples like this one stand as proud testaments to
the culture. Remarkable carvings survive - evoking the
pagan roots of these early Norwegian Christians. Stylized dragons - reminiscent of those that
once adorned Viking ships - probably functioned like gargoyles - to keep evil spirits at bay. This building has changed little since it
was built in 1180. Interiors were stark and dark with tiny windows
and simple X-shaped crosses of St. Andrew. The architecture guides your gaze upwards,
towards heaven. The people who filled these churches often
walked hours to worship. Many hiked from tiny hamlets formed by several
farms joining together. Otternes is one such farm village perched
high above a fjord. Today, Otternes welcomes visitors with a rare
look at Norway of old. It's an evocative huddle of a couple dozen
weathered farm buildings - many of which date from the 1700s. The farmstead's population dwindled a century
ago, when - like so many Norwegians - its residents emigrated to America in hopes of
a better life. Still, a handful of farmers remained, eking
out a living here until just a generation ago. Laila Kvellestad works hard to make the story
of Otternes a living history. Rick: So I'm curious about how this community
was organized. Laila: Yeah and this was four farms, four
families, who lived here. Rick: So why not one family here and one family
there? Why four families together:
Laila: You know to live in this area it was very hard life. So they learned to work together and learned
to share the reserves so they could survive. Rick: So this was an active farm actually until the
last generation. Laila: Yes and Eilert he lived here till 1980. Rick: So there was a man named Eilert? Laila: Yeah. He was the last one. Rick: Now this looks like he left it yesterday. Laila: Yes. And his last wish was we should try to take
care of this house almost like it was when he died. Rick: And you're doing exactly that. Laila: We try to do it yes. Today the action's down at sea level. Ferries are a lifeline of the economy - helping
both locals go about their lives and visitors efficiently explore these fjords. Just across Sognefjord lies Balestrand. Little Balestrand is dwarfed by the mountainous
scenery. With its functional harbor front and inviting
marina, it serves as a springboard for local adventures. It flourished in the 19th century, as a resort
when Romantic "Grand Tour" visitors came from far and wide to enjoy its dramatic setting. As a matter of fact, these simple steps were
built for the German Emperor. Back before WWI brought the Romantic age to
a halt, Germany's Kaiser Wilhelm spent five summers communing with nature right here. Those glory days of early tourism still echo
in the venerable Kviknes Hotel, which remains the grande dame of Balestrand. In its fine old dining room, the Kviknes offers
a classic Norwegian smorgasbord. For locals, this all-you-can-eat extravaganza
is traditionally a feast enjoyed on holidays. But for travelers it's an any-day-of-the-week
opportunity to over-indulge in Norwegian cuisine. Pace yourself with small plates through many
courses. Begin with an enticing variety of seafood
- mackerel, eel, smoked salmon, pickled herring and more. And the selection ranges from rutabagas to
reindeer. It all culminates with a rich spread of local
cheeses and berries. Guests enjoy their coffee in the same rustic
elegance that kept those first aristocratic visitors coming back. While the beauty of these fjords has changed
little in the last century, today getting around is a different story. From the heart of fjord country, the fast
boat has us in the biggest city in the West of Norway in just a couple hours. Bergen is Norway's second city after Oslo. Situated just one sheltering island from the
open sea, it's long provided ships a safe port of call. It's a busy working port. It's popular with cruise ships and an essential
refuge when heavy winds drive in the boats that serve the North Sea oil rigs. Much of Norway's current affluence is fueled
by the oil it drills just off shore. Visitors enjoy charming cobbled streets which
surround the harbor and climb the encircling hills. Bergen's popular funicular rises high above
the city offering commanding views. Surveying the surrounding islands and fjords,
it's clear why this city is known as the Gateway to Fjord Country. Back down at the harbor, the bustling fish
market has become a food circus of eateries selling fishy treats to tourists. Eager merchants provide tasty samples and
they'll happily assemble a plate to order. This fine harbor has a long history. Seven hundred years ago, local kings established
Bergen as Norway's first capital. The 13th-century Håkon's Hall was part of
the royal residence. In a city built of wood, stone buildings represented
power. As in many Norwegian sights, the included
tour here brings meaning to an otherwise hard to appreciate attraction. Guide: Welcome to the Håkon's Hall which
is today one of the more important secular buildings we actually have here in Norway
from the Middle Ages. You're now standing up as you can see in the
main hall. I think this is also the best location where
you're able to appreciate actually how large this building is. And today it is by far the largest secular
stone building in Norway from the Middle Ages. The adjacent tower dates back to the same
period. It's simple design favored security over comfort. It was basically four stout rooms stacked
atop each other. This was the chapel. From the roof we enjoy a royal view. Guide: For centuries this actually happened
to be the tallest building in Bergen. What I think the building is trying to represent
today is the attempt the Norwegian kings made in the 1200s to make this a political center. Colorful wooden warehouses mark Bergen's touristy
historic quarter. Since the 1300s, this was its old German trading
center - called Bryggen, or "The Wharf." Along with being home of Norway's king, Bergen
was a member of the mighty Hanseatic League and therefore a trading power. The Hanseatic League was an alliance of cities
stretching across Northern Europe from London to Russia. They worked together for freer, safer, and
more profitable trade in an age before modern states could provide a reliable environment
for business. German merchants basically ran Bergen's trade
for 400 years. In the 1500s, Bergen was essentially a Germanic
community of 2,000 workaholic merchants surrounded and supported by 5,000 Norwegians. The Hanseatic Museum stands on the edge of
the wharf. With creaky wooden interiors and maritime
hardware, it helps you envision the economy that made Bergen. It was all about this fish. Cod - a form of protein that could be dried,
preserved, and shipped anywhere. Bergen is the place where cod from the north
met traders from the rest of Europe. The Norwegians were the good fishermen. The Germans were the good merchants. They needed each other and Bergen is where
they met. Rooms upstairs - with hundred year old cod
hanging from the ceilings - take you back to the 1700s. It was an all-male society with strict rules
and a focus on business. Because of the ever-present danger of fire,
it was generally cold and dark. People slept cozy-as-they-could in cramped
cupboard beds. While there was hardly room for company, this
bunk came with a pinup girl. Bryggen's wooden core is made of long rows
of planky warehouses leaning haphazardly across narrow alleys. It's burned down and been rebuilt several
times and it's now touristy and full of shops and galleries. Still, strolling here, you can appreciate
the heritage. For a modern contrast to all this history,
head for the urban heart of Bergen - which has a thriving personality all its own. The main square, originally created as a fire
break in this fire-plagued city, is lined by big department stores. And locals come to life when the sun peaks
through, here in Norway's rainiest city. A park-like esplanade leads to the national
theater. Fountains celebrating cultural icons provide
popular meeting places. In the late 19th century, Norway's greatest
artists and musicians called Bergen home. This fountain is dedicated to the beloved
violinist, Olle Bull. And just outside of town, is Troldhaugen,
the home of Norway's greatest composer, Edvard Grieg. Touring his home takes you back to the Romantic
age when Grieg was a major player among European composers. Guides explain how Grieg and his wife entertained
cultural big shots who traveled from all corners to visit this Norwegian musical genius. And when the composer wanted to work, he had
his escape - a peaceful cabin complete with fjord-side inspiration. Composing at the turn of the 20th century,
Grieg fused simple Norwegian folk tunes with the flamboyance of Europe's Romantic style. Today, in the one-with-nature concert hall,
visitors drop in to midday performances by local musicians. With a setting like this, Grieg fans become
tuned into nature and nature lovers become tuned in to Grieg. And Grieg's music captures that rich and poignant
mix of nature and culture that is so uniquely Norwegian. I hope you've enjoyed our journey through
western Norway. In this rugged corner of Europe, the challenges
presented by nature have met the tough and creative spirit of the Norwegian people. The result: a fascinating land well worth
visiting. Thanks for joining us. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time...keep on travelin'. Credits: When you explore and when you know where to
look and you have a good guidebook, you'll find it's a real goot... This is the glamour of travel, I mean of production-Rick
Steves does nature. Thanks for joining us. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time, get some hairspray.
