Internal Grooves and Angles on the Lathe

the guys still find your advanced innovations Austin Texas welcome back it's been a couple of weeks since I've been online and thank you to everybody that has come back welcome to all my new subscribers I just crossed over 17,000 subscribers and this is my first year online so thank you to everyone that has inspired me to continue to do this the feedback and the comments have just motivated me to continue to share what I know and thank you for hanging in there a second item of business that the Carlow family wishes me to thank everyone that has stepped up and sent them donations for my friend joe liske illness he's currently suffering with cancer and it's not looking good and I wish I had better news but it is what it is and the time will tell exactly how this is going to play out Lauren his wife wanted me specifically to say thank you to everyone because she has no avenue to do so so thank you very much if you still want to contribute and God knows they need it go to my website there's a GoFundMe link you know for the cost of a beer a pack of cigarettes they could really use the money especially now the medical bills are really mounting up that being said today I'm going to get back on the lathe and we're going to make a part and now does there's going to be a book here in a second so check this out this is not going to be a big deal we're going to have a straight diner on the park now let's say go to a force buy another straight diameter and now let's say what a 30 let's do that a third but that's pretty close can I believe that you say it's no big deal right piece of cake well here's the look that's the ID well now it just got interesting right oh here's your ID not only how you cut it how do you measure it when you get beyond the initial opening in any part and you start getting internal features that you can't see I call that blind work and it's a very appropriate title because you might as well have a blindfold on because you can't see the tool you can't get anything in there conventional tools to measure it and I'm going to show you a trick on how to set this up how to know where your tools are at and a very simple very inexpensive way to measure now if you have a big shop if you have a big checkbook you can buy an inner test dial boards you can buy a variety of different devices that go down inside of a undercut or a smooth cylindrical board and measure it but when you start getting into oddball stuff like this it's a whole different animal and you certainly don't want to go out and spend eleven hundred dollars on a set of non-war gauges just to measure one piece so I'm going to show you something that you could possibly actually even make it would be a great project player so let's take a walk out to the lake and get this going I think you're going to like what you see okay this is the part that we're going to put in the lathe and we're going to bore out the inside perspective there's a one-inch 250 diameter coming in the front 45 degree chamfer leading up to a one-inch 510 diameter into a 30-degree down to a one-inch to 20 diameter through now since the end decimal here is a two-place and the print spec allows for deviation of 10,000 that I'm just going to drill that in but everything else here will be bored the coordination of the tool we're going to use a single tool to do the inside now naturally if you have the capabilities and your shop is such that you can grind a form tool to do this in one shot and the material will commit that by all means do that but I'm going to show you the technique for coordinating your tools and getting your diameters and your dimensions clean and well placed this is the instrument that we're going to check the major diameter of the undercut with relatively simple little instrument interchangeable tips based on the entry diameter that you're going to be passing through and the size that you're going to need to check you can extend these naturally they unscrew and you can put on longer tips rounded tips thinner tips you can see the action of the indicator this indicator will go all the way around and 0 you're much further than it is I'll show you can lift the tip here so there's still travel on that it's not maxed out you don't want to max these out when you set these the ideal configuration is to have the indicator tip straight with the indicator body so this is not an ideal setup but it's not so far from ideal that it's not acceptable you can adjust your zero with these little thumb screws in the front you can adjust the stroke of how much it goes beyond zero with this little guy right here you want to make sure that when you squeeze it together that it fits in the bore that you want it to pass through and since we're going through a one-inch 250 bore in the front I don't know if you can see that or not but this will easily pass through the one-inch 2:54 and when it opens up it'll easily go to the one-inch 510 that we're looking for as well in order to set this just use the 2 inch mic set it to your diameter lock it off they do make micrometer clamps that would come in real handy with this and you can set the micrometer in the clamp and one of the things I've noticed if you're setting these a lot and you don't want your tips to walk off of the micrometer anvils just put a piece of quarter inch tubing a short piece of quarter inch tubing around the upper and lower parts of the micrometer and they act as little cups and keep the tip from walking out it makes it a lot easier to set these up so once you have your micrometer locked into the size you want walk this thing back and forth because you know you have your zero and now although this particular instrument is not a measuring instrument it's an indicating instrument that's what I say this might be a fun project to make on your own so strictly a pivot point it's not a crossover pivot point this is the same arm all the way through it just knuckles down and goes into here so the top arm is the only arm that moves that would not be a big deal at all to make one of these especially the way this one is made a couple of side plates make this from flat stock have a pivot point and there is a spring in here it does want to return all by itself but that is in in decal with a brown and sharp best test indicator on it it's held on with a little dovetail clamp down here on the side nice little unit very helpful I've had this in my box for got to be 40 years now a great little piece you don't have one get one it's very versatile and it certainly can service a variety of sizes you can see I mean you can just continue to put these extensions on here and you can check them any size you want so long as you have a way to set it you'll have a way to utilize it alright let's get over to the lathe and see what's going on just to make it easier to blend any large surfaces on your tool it's a good idea to indicate the outside of your tool if you're sure that the outside of the tool is ground true to the tip for the sake of this video and for the sake of your part it's really helpful if you know how wide the tip of your tool is this particular tool is a hundred and seventy eight thousand s wide and that's going to be very important here very shortly first thing we're going to do on this part is to pop a one-inch to 18 or seven thirty to one inch 7/32 diameter hole through the part it's close enough to the one-inch to 20 nominal on the print and you'll notice that there is no pilot hole this is plastic and it should go pretty quick I chose to use plastic for this demonstration so that I wouldn't have to take too much time run too much camera time and just burn up a whole lot of unnecessary YouTube so here we go [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] the feature that's going to be the hardest to do on this part it's going to be the 1 inch 5/10 swollen inside undercut so I'm going to show you a trick that I like and I think if your part permits it it's something that you should remember for your own application I'm going to take a much smaller bar actually I'm going to take the bar I'm going to use to bake the undercut with I'll start there my compound has already set at 45 degrees the tool is true I'm going to put a small counterbore on the front of this part that has absolutely nothing to do with the part but it's going to be a size that I can measure going to go in approximately a hundred thousand seven from contact this is where you would zero your digital or your Dro or whatever you have I'm going to go on 100 grand [Applause] and I'm going to measure a 477 were 23:33 away from fun back 200 and double check the size 5:06 gotta go for more say four more [Applause] I'm going to take a sharpie marker right now and I am going to draw somewhere on the machine so that I can reference this particular position that's my Fievel I will not check any of these dimensions with the exception of the lead board until this part is done it's and well till it's done so I can show you exactly how accurate this this message really is [Applause] the lead more on the print is a ninja 250 [Applause] [Music] [Applause] now the compound is still set at 45 degrees but it has not moved in one inch too busy I'm very pleased with that so we have our first diameter step [Music] I know that a particular 100,000 on this counterbore right here so I'm going to reset my digital readout to zero but all my debts are true from this point forward true to the print according to the print the backside of the undercount looking for is at 755 deep not going to move it in 7:55 actually I'm going to go 750 I'm leaving room for a cleanup pen I like to clean up I'm just going to pull back now to the dimension the number on my slide that I used to do this counter bore you know if the counter bore is which is exactly the same size is the undercut inside you just need to pull back to the same number without moving the compound [Applause] [Applause] now knowing that the other dimension on the print its 380 you're going to take the thickness of your tool and you're going to add it to that 380 and that'll be the depth of the next cut our 58 it is and back to the numbers that you use to do the fun terrible you can put your finger down inside and feel if you have a rib left if you do shift the carriage accordingly and knock the rib off because the last thing you want is a washer floating around inside that undercut it's a good way to burn up or break a tool I wish this part we're clear you have a better idea what's going on here but the last 5:58 the person with 750 I'm going to go 650 for the centerfolds Center pass [Applause] now I'm going to sweep it so there's a nice clean diameter starting at the 558 depth which is the 380 on the print plus the 178 Y tool [Applause] 5w8 going for the 755 gift on the print [Applause] move in using the crossfire although I could go inside here right now and check that diameter I'm not going to I'm going to trust this technique and hopefully it's not going to let me down when push comes to shove I'm going to go back to the starting position with this particular tool right now 5:58 on my digital and I'm going to once again return the tool to the position where it cuts the main diameter at that point I'm going to use the compound spit at 45 degrees and I'm going to draw this tool out I'm going to put the 45 degree feature on that leads in from the diameter that you start with to the larger undercut see how that works out once you're clear pull out [Applause] like it okay give me a couple minutes here to reset the tool for the inside 30-degree angle and we'll show you how to do that when you start a job like this make sure that your cross light is on zero let's see if we can shape it make sure that you have a sharpie marker reference point that indicates where that zero is I always like the front of my compound flush with the stationery base and I just use the base length as my zero reference point when I fourth they're not only the front 1-inch 5/10 but the inside one-inch 510 I put a sharpie marker line right on the casting and I wrote the number on the casting that the dial needs to be returned to now make sure that when you're working internally but you don't get all excited about the feature that you've just cut and drag the tool out and wipe out the boss on the front of the part going to set the compound now for the 30-degree angle to be cut here and it will figure out exactly how we're going to pick that up I'll bet you this one-inch 510 counter bore on the front of the part really is going to come in handy here in about two minutes stay tuned okay before we get back inside that part and cut that trailing edge 30 degree on let's review exactly what you're looking at in case any of that moved a little bit too fast for you this is a cross-section of the part this is the centerline of the board this is the 100th ow deep tooling diameter that I put on the face of the part so that I knew where the undercut diameter would be now what we've done is we've taken the 178 tool registered our zero face and found the one-inch 510 diameter that we need it came in plunge the back plunge the front knock the web out but I swept apart now I'm actually if there's a 380 on your print if you're trying to hit this bottom corner you have to add the thickness of the tool to that so 558 was actually where this tool stops because the front of the tool is 558 from this surface right here then with the compound set at 45 I do the tool back out and I formed the large undercut and the 45 one tool now you could do that a different way if you wanted to you could use a tool that already had a 45 degree angle on it but like I said before it's really important to know what your tools look like the angles the widths everything so it would be a little easier to come in hit your mark sweep back to your dimension and the tool would actually give you the 45 so there is no compound out in this situation you can have your compound already set at 30 pitch your 45 sweep your groove and not compound out the 30 degree and you can do the entire thing with one tool this would be a form tool if this was a CNC job you would do it with a profiling tool the profiling tool would come in and create the board step down on the specified angle appropriate create the undercut and run out all naturally CNC control the angle on the insert that you will use would naturally be less than any of the feature angles because you do not want a large surface contact it's a concern we'll land down inside the choir so the machines already been set to the 30 degrees what I'm going to do now we're going to go back out I'm going to find the location for the tool I'm going to move in we're going to drop the tool right down in this corner and compound off this 30-degree angle right there and I'm going to chop the part in half so you can see what it looks like let's take a look okay for this operation the compound has been set to the 30 degrees same tool we're going to go in and bump on that hundred thousand we're going to pull out until we just dust the one-inch 510 lead diameter that we have on this part and that's going to give us a very important registration point for positioning this tool for the internal 30 degree chamfer right there let's reposition the camera get it stabilized get this done okay I've set the camera to such an angle so I hope that you can see what we're trying to knock off and it would be this square corner down in here that we're trying to hit I'm going to bring the tool and I'm going to bump the hundred base since we did shift the 45 to a thirty we've lost all our locations we have to relocate this so I'm going to go to 100 gentle bump I'm going to zero my digital but this is where you would zero your dial indicator drop indicator travel dial whatever you have got to back it off and since this is plastic and there may be some compression I'm not going to trust that that zero is actually surface zero so I'm going to creep up on it with the machine running as well as try to hit the diameter and come up with the number on my cross slide [Applause] this part we're metal you would put dyke' them or hit that with a sharpie marker and just watch for the line to disappear okay 192 is the number and I move into the 755 on the print I'm going to draw back to the 192 number by the cross life the toll should be sitting right in that private corner [Applause] right now I'm going to 30-degree out [Applause] although the chips are getting in a way let's hope there's a 30-degree trailing edge feature being formed right now [Applause] and in position the tool visually to the center of the part so I don't knock any of the other features off how we go okay you can see down inside the park there's a nice clean 30-degree land in there now and this is a good time to check it dimensionally so I'm gonna zoom out a little bit let's change the camera angle see what that one-inch 510 undercut really looks [Applause] this is the end of cow that I set up previously and I'm really hoping this is in frame we're going to compress it get over the one inch to 50 in the front we're going to look for zero make sure you're not sitting on any of the angles rock it back and forth look for a high spot and then sweep it this way the fives but guys I would say that's pretty pretty close to almost spot-on I am very pleased with that I'm going to compress it again to pull out there you go let's cut it in half [Applause] well there we go guys that's what the final part looks like after we split it and I'm sorry I couldn't get the actual cutting operation it's really not a big deal as you can see that you have your nice 1 X 250 lead 45 degrees up to the 1-inch 510 undercut 30 degrees through to the drilled hole and that is a really good way to do that the counter bore reference diameter I turned on the face is gone and you just would not know now it's not necessarily as helpful for the initial one-inch 510 with the 45 but when you go back in there to make contact with the internal diameter and blend your tool out for the second up it is a great reference tool for coordinating different features inside the part that you can't see so instead of ruining a nice diameter that you had on the inside you can make contact on the outside feed it in do all your math and complete the part accordingly but there you go non CNC internal blind work two angles one giant internal undercut and the whole thing is within mm of an inch hope you liked it alright guys well I hope that you enjoyed that blind internal work is challenging frustrating but it's very rewarding when you actually pull it off I would think that one of the most important features of any type of blind internal work is that you take your time when you set up markup your machine know where everything is that they'll be afraid to take a sharpie marker and roll all over your compound and your cross slide and just whatever you got to do you're definitely going to need a digital readout or a long travel drop indicator or a travel dial or some way of tracking your carriage movement of course the tools that you just saw going to use the little measuring device is called an Indy Cal you can still get there about $200 if you find Tom lifted over an ox tool did a review on that particular instrument I guess was about 2 or 3 years ago one of his videos so a big shout out that if I'm looking at ox tool this is a great combination to have in your arsenal and that particular tool you could probably make it because it doesn't have to be very precision just very repeatable so who knows it might be a good project knock one out clearance on your tools is very important make sure that as you dial in any angle on any tool internally that you have the clearance on the tool of the production of the cutting edge is sufficient for the feature that you want to cut I hope you liked what you saw it certainly is an interesting thing to try so grab a piece of stock grab a piece of scrap stock whatever grind yourself up a tool and have that it's a lot of fun and I hope your results are favorable and you like that little counter board trick as well that's a good way to preset a tool without actually having to make contact inside your department screw up your features anyway it's all I got to apply advanced innovations lost in Texas I'm out you

Channel: Joe Pieczynski

Views: 57,892

Rating: 4.9697776 out of 5

Keywords: Joe Pie, Joe Pieczynski, advanced innovations, advanced innovations llc, shop videos, machining videos, shop hacks, lathe videos, lathe hacks, undercuts, id grooving, how to make an undercut, internal grooving tools, lathe tutorials, tool coordination, blind machining, blind features, blind boring, measuring internal grooves, lathe tools, internal lathe contours, ID grooves, ID undercuts

Id: QeFCLX1Veqk

Length: 34min 30sec (2070 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 29 2017