K Swapping My Honda Civic - Episode 2

on the previous episode of the case wat build I took my 1997 Honda Civic ek hatch and stripped it of its B 16 B motor this isn't the original motor for the car so replacing it with the K series isn't a big deal don't think I haven't seen all the comments about this next I drove to J spec Auto to pick up a mint-condition j d MK 20 for a motor then it was time to completely strip down the engine bay so I can paint it championship white I did this with a rival can base paint and clear coat but I think it turned out really well with a clean engine bay I couldn't put all the old parts back on so I replaced everything with new parts as much as I could this includes a big box of brand new stainless steel bolts I bought these on Amazon that's where I got these I got so many messages about this anyway with the engine bay reassembled the car was now ready to have a k24 pudding so I brought the car to a case while expert in Wisconsin [Music] [Music] hi my name is a nice meadow guard we are here at my shop ASM here at ASM we build we build fast cars our specialty is K swamps we do a lot of s 2000 K swaps but we've been known to put them in just about anything so yeah it is it's just me at the shop working full-time I've got two small part-time people that come and help me out with some other things to allow me to stay more focused on the job at hand if you haven't seen a nice meadow guard on this channel before he's one of the fastest drivers that we've ever filmed he's been in so many of our grid life videos in the past driving his monster of an Evo and even his personal K swapped s2000 you might have seen in our video last week about ice racing as well the man gets around he's incredibly talented and a hard worker and I'm thrilled that I was able to convince him to work on my little Civic his shop ASM is more of an exclusive shop dedicated to track oriented people he doesn't often do your standard oil changes he generally only does the above-and-beyond bills so I'm glad that he decided to take on this case whap yeah we're definitely more of a exclusive shop where we try to work with this our same client base we don't take a lot OVI your quick in-and-out stuff I want to take care of the whole car basically do all general maintenance stuff on it any modifications and then that even extends more than just when it leaves a shop I will often times meet customers at the track and help with track setup as well as even driver coaching as well so try to do the whole package from the planning stages of the car to building the car to actually making it work on track putting a K in an e K chassis is a little easier than an S - you know converting the decay which is only a front-wheel drive engine to an s2 is a little easier turning everything so you have to requires a little more adaptors and stuff the K Danny Kaye's it's been you know tried and true it's it's been done lots of aftermarket support for it so it makes a little easier especially when we have a company like k tuned on board here to help with all the parts they make a lot of swap kits or a lot of the swap parts to make it pretty much a Bolton kit so this week we are going to be k swapping to the ek Civic meeow meeow where k swapping Mia and we're gonna stuff a JDM K 24 in it the K 24 we're starting with is basically the K 24 8 - we are going to open it up and do a few quick internal things we're gonna put a Type S oil pump it's gonna give a little more rev range we're gonna seal that up with a Moroso oil pan baffled oil pan this part will see tracks time the stock bottom end on the K 24 is pretty stout should take plenty of power even boost you can throw 5 600 horse net those stock bottom ends and they they'll take it for a while the best combo I think and what I've kind of found with some of that's - stuff I've done a lot of testing with is that k24 bottom end with the z3k 23 head and if you can up the compression in the bottom end great but for this project we're gonna start with just a stock 10 10 and 10 1/2 to 1 compression and we're going to replace the head with a z3 head which is the 8th gen civic SI head while we're in there we're gonna put a 50-degree cam here in give a little more torque range and drop in some camps so we got some drug cartel their endurance race cam should provide a nice thick power band there so we're gonna put an intake manifold RB seat right are they see the RBC is a intake manifolds off the H gen and civic SI putting a slew of K tuned parts on the car some fuel set up throttle body a bunch of goodies and then we're gonna feed it some 85 and from there we're gonna put it on the dyno and see what kind of power we can make everyone's very obsessed with dyno numbers and there's absolutely zero standard for chassis dynos so what you see on one dyno you really can't compare to the other dyno I don't even care if it's like a Mustang dyno to a Mustang dad no one dyno reads the same you know if I tighten my belts on the dyno super tight or something like that like or you strap a car down super tight that's gonna change numbers so it's really hard to compare numbers from one dyno the other so with that said my dyno typically for me to hit 260 on a lot of these s2s I need to have a higher compression engine I'm guessing that cars gonna make maybe - we'll see yeah I guess we'll see that's that's all I can say I mean it will platoon it for max power we'll do everything we can and it'll make what it makes let's go to work we got 24 hours [Music] the first step in this whole process is to tear down the JDM k24 engine almost down to the bare block since we're putting in almost all brand new parts onto this engine to make it even more powerful we're gonna take off all the parts we're not using which is I think most of them right we're really we're actually swapping in the z3 head so we're literally using the short block what a waste huh the JDM motors are configured much differently than the USDM motors and because we're changing all the accessories on this motor with USDM spec Bolton's we're gonna need to change all of the brackets to fit as well this will make it much easier in the future if I ever need to replace parts because there'll be us-spec parts so my part stores will actually carry them can you imagine trying to order a JDM spec Oh 60 SX alternator you'd have to pay an arm and a leg to overnight them from Japan but with us spec parts they're just a call to advance auto parts away okay can I get that and a water pump for the same car [Music] we're gonna start with the bottom end we're not gonna change out the rods or the pistons but we're going to have to improve the oiling system to help this car perform better on track we're gonna change out the factory oil pump with a type s oil pump that will allow the car to rev faster and higher to make more power and reduced rotational mass and while we have the oil pan off we'll change that out to [Music] anytime your case swapping anything you do the tight best conversion that's like what you do so there's one very critical part of converting it over and that there's an oil passage that travels up from the block into the bounce shafts you have to plug that if you don't plug it obviously you're gonna have really low oil pressure and probably eventually kill a motor consists of a few things you have a new baffle so this is the baffle with the balance shafts is very small obviously because you got the balance shafts so you can burp to this you have to get a new oil pump chain new hardware and then a new one of the new guide so you have to get this guide it's slightly different than the one with the balance shaft but you will utilize the same tensioner so this uses a little little spring tensioner so you'll use the same one that you took off and then the most important part obviously is the oil pump a little modification you have to do so if you buy the factory pump you have to actually port and/or cut half of this pump away to clearance or on the block the type s oil pump is a good upgrade because it also removes the heavy balance shafts that the factory oil pump has this means less rotational mass which will allow the engine to turn over more freely it also shaves off a few pounds so I can't complain about that [Music] and with the type s oil pump installed it's time to seal it up with an oversized baffled oil pan so if when oil sloshes against it that will keep it closed but then it will allow it to flow back in when you're accelerating so it's always trying to keep the oil near the pickup baffled oil pans are important if you plan to take your car to the track because it keeps the oil near the oil pick up on the oil pump without a baffled oil pan it's much more likely to starve the engine of oil pressure when cornering around hard turns ask me how I know next we're gonna take the k24 head off to replace it with a k23 head and a bunch of extra goodies while Andy removes the k24 head Ronnie has just joined us and he brought in a fresh k23 head to work on hey guys Ronnie here this here to help out with prep the head right now we are cleaning this head because it's been freshly machine and sometimes we get all the shavings still stuck in the port's so I've got to make sure all that stuff is gone or I'll ends end up inside the engine [Music] no it's so this it's a JDM engine it's probably has I don't know anywhere from fifty to eighty thousand miles on it used engine probably set around four five years not running so that's your typical typical and you know carbon buildup on the Pistons and dirty oil that probably been sitting in here for five years doesn't bother me I've seen enough of these where I don't doesn't faze me but then over here is just pacing back and forth so pop the head off he's gonna swap it in for the z3 head which is a little better flowing Ron's over there putting some belt train stuff in there trapping that soon as he's done there we should be able to pop this back on get all the timing components back on and throw the engine back in the car and start working on fitting all the other little things Andy cleans off the carbon deposits on the pistons before he puts in ARP head studs these head studs are a bit overkill for this build since I'm not turbo in the engine but it's not much additional cost and they're reusable if I ever want to take the engine back Clark meanwhile Ronnie is changing out the valve seals and valve springs to put in the upgraded cams we're doing dual valve springs so I got to remove all the seals and seats and replace them but this is a higher flowing head the z3 is known to have a better flowing even on stock ports so just extracting everything that you can out of a k24 this would be a best best had to start with generator they should do 240 to 250 as a given but when the combination works they they do really good so we'll see I got I got some work to do these upgraded valve springs in combination with the oil pump will help this 2.4 liter engine rev out to nearly 9,000 RPM super stuck stuff is in I'm gonna bolt this thing on and next is cams I got some tracker tell cams coming up this is already you asked it's good [Music] they get them like kind of snug all first and then read rusyn and start again get the head sit flat [Music] but Andy how much of our how much of our horse powers are coming from these cams ultimate in 30 the motor racing no power well not without em no way that Kim's at all yes sir um it's a good question the actually see how much more power this hopefully go 10 15 P course but the I think these cans are more designed for the broad powerband so might even si si si peak horsepower to numbers which I know everyone in the internet loves to see for power numbers that's not what it's about it's about making that curve curve bigger getting more area under the curve and that's what these are supposed to do si [Music] we're putting on drag cartels 2.2 endurance racing camps a few people recommended that I use the more aggressive 3.2 camps but these two point two cams will actually make more mid-range power under the curve and better overall use of the engine the three point two cams might make a higher peak horsepower number but I care more about usable power band rather than peak horsepower dyno numbers bigger numbers aren't always better unless you're looking to brag on the Internet but I care more about the overall power band which is the best thing about an n/a K series motor [Music] after the cams are installed and the valves are adjusted it's time to button up the internals of the motor with some nice Philip K tune parts almost everything k tune makes is billet aluminum which is incredibly strong and incredibly lightweight [Music] their parts are also often gasket lists they're cut out with rubber o-rings so you never need to worry about scraping off and cleaning off gasket services and with the internal work of the ancient complete it's time to work on the external Bolton's and get it ready to drop in the car but that'll have to wait for next episode [Music] [Music]

Channel: Gears and Gasoline

Views: 1,694,043

Keywords: K24, k20, K swap, K-swap, kswap, k20/k24, ktuned, honda, civic, ek, hatch, Type R, Ej, Swap, Build

Id: FfG0nd6FkQQ

Length: 16min 25sec (985 seconds)

Published: Sat Mar 07 2020