How To Swap Honda K20 K24 K-Series Camshafts

everybody knows Honda's k-series engines respond really well to a camshaft upgrade we're gonna show you in a step-by-step fashion how to do that swap so the first step to removing camshafts is to remove the valve cover taking all the bolts off the harness and all that jazz so next step here is to remove the timing chain tensioner cover and then we can get at the actual tensioner but we're gonna have to set the car to top dead center before we do anything else and now comes the most important part ruie lining it up the top dead center so what are we looking for here really there's two marks on the gears yeah and then there's the top dead center mark on the crank pulley now you probably can't see this very well but they've point to the lower mark on the crankshaft or crank pulley there and there's a timing mark on the actual cover so those two need to line up there as well as the cams up top next up here we've got to remove the tensioner right ruing yep and normally we put a little thumb tack which it comes on a stop tensioner already so I keep a bunch of them all the time and before you remove the tensioner fully should put that in or else when you go to pull it out it will unlock and put too much in and it's a very bad thing you know yeah I believe it so what if that you said if that's not lined up you just move the crank pulley pull it back a little bit just a little bit it'll to depress yeah we're talking about that thing right there yeah yeah so essentially you're just putting pressure on the tension area exactly it makes it easier to take it on instead of having a little bit of pressure in that using a tool the whole time we heard the tension come off the cams a little bit yeah there it is so nice step we're gonna remove the camp caps there's a sequence to this obviously of course middle the outside yeah one by one just crack them loose a lot of us use this bungee to keep the chain from having too much slack on the bottom which will make it please keep climbing on the bottom chain there's a couple of companies that actually sell a guide that holds up the chain so it doesn't have that much slack right but since we don't have this on that and this motor right here this is the best way to do it we're doing Tai Chi then any hole on the lid kind of thing just a little gotcha right on and like that we can take off the count the chain that old 100% all the things once in a while we see some of them get stuck here that's easy way to do it put it on the thread on the corner nice move on to the next same thing many Internet is learning a lot here today yep same thing with this one there you go and they're all unlocked they're all numbered so obviously you can't screw them up I'll put them in what I'm in order exactly so next step it's one by one don't make it easy okay right so you don't actually leave the cam gear no there's some people do whatever I tend not to do it now okay I rather do it the old-school way pull everything out it you know do everything manually on the floor right I got you what you see now right now we got enough tension I shouldn't really skip from the bottom yeah right now so next step is to remove the cam gears and they can trigger this I bet I've always been taught not to use an impact yeah this stuff so I do it manually on the floor like this to all of them especially on the intake side cuz it's a VT see here yeah you want to put force into it so you don't mingle the veins on the inside the gear well I like the technique so when I'm dragging him to work well dunk it oh dang I didn't know there was a back-end on this and then just I'm making us work yeah on these things yeah cuz even though it's an email pretty freakin tight and there she goes that's the camp trigger for the exhaust side which is marked as you can see with an e so you can't really get it wrong I am putting here and it's game exhaust one is in yep put the bolt back in and tighten all of them and then we'll set them all to torque spec sometimes these are a little tricky you got a guide hole into the pin simple enough but once in a while I gotta make sure that cam gear slides in a hundred percent like so damn yeah train they're even yeah you know when you need to bring in the dead weight the torque spec for the intake side which is a PTC here is 80 foot pounds and then on our exhaust cam which is a smaller bolt which is only 50 pounds the camp trainers and the back are both 8 millimeter allen key which are 35 foot pounds that's it good nice step is putting them back in I try normally to line up both marks as close as possible so you don't have to play around with them too much because arguably this is more difficult than removing every yeah yeah a little bit especially having to play with this chain exactly cuz you got to make sure you don't want to make the chain skip on the bottom also so and then there's more work for us we really don't want to have obviously we can now remove this it's gonna cause a little bit of a pain and we try to hold it with our hand hold it up so it doesn't skip on the bottom we're holding this yeah yeah okay just lift it over and you guide it in just like so I'm just picking the chain up a bit yep moving it it seems a little cumbersome but yeah eventually you'll get there yeah exactly the whole thing is try to hold them as much as you can so it doesn't skip on the bottom yeah exactly so when it skips on the bottom and it's just more work for us that exactly that we don't want to do oh yeah so that's pretty pretty close okay that you can manage now yeah so I see kind of offset them but we are pulling together they should come out alright there's two holes on the back of the cam trigger which if you look on yeah the cam cap which there's a special on the tarea to lock it in place so you're trying to get it as close as possible to there so when the cam caps are tight it's you just put the pin in which it's testable right here - yeah yeah some people use a drill bit but since we're fortunate enough to to have the tool we'll just use the tool cool next step is putting the camp caps back on they're all numbered on the top of the cap and the lower part of the cap so can't really mess it up but I'm sure they'll say that people don't do one for put them backwards normally there's you see there's an arrow always pointing to the cam gear normally kind of like start on the back here just to bring the cam down a little bit so it doesn't put a lot of force on the rest of the camp caps so it kind of goes slowly back and forth and until they somewhat settle down the final torque sequence will obviously be Center to outer we have inch-pounds over here with normally foot-pounds will be 16 foot-pounds to torque down these cam caps and we'll go from whatsit in the inch pounds inch pounds will be like as well ball 190 190 okay so we'll go little by little from Center to outer a little bit you can use that I drove it yeah you can use a drill bit similar size I'll bring it forward and there you go so cams are locked now we gotta check the timing on the crank again looks good I wish we could show you this but it is pretty difficult to see Ruiz looking just down the hole here I can almost see it like the crank rifles we can mean you can't yeah so you're just moving the crank a little bit just positioning it a hundred percent so we can put all the slack in the back so when we do put the tensioner in everything is a hundred percent obviously next step is to put the tensioner back in we'll both ten miles in whole a thumbtack oh and put nice on the chain and then after that obviously we're gonna clean a silicon off this timing chain cover and reseal a sealant yeah put the old one back on and gotta move the camp slightly back or front to pull out the pins obviously because they're under a little bit of tension and there you go done Beauty next step is we'll rotate the motor a couple of times to make sure it is on timing a hundred percent and then we can obviously put the valve cover back in and close it all up and there you go you kind of heard that which is the tensioner pretty much putting 100% tension on the the guide so it doesn't let the chain skip and then we'll rotate it a bunch of times so you go back the top dead center and what the top that and really everything should be good right there we'll look at the bottom good with the cams in now comes the fun part I'd only think we're gonna have to do but we do and that is route eyelash adjustment right Dre cartel obviously recommends eight on the intake nine on the exhaust so obviously rotate the motor to what they can lope on the up right position so there's you can see there's a little bit of no no tension at all on the spring and that's all we adjust them normally but the feeler gauge in as you can see it's a little too tight for the specs for drag cartel so what we'll do is use our fancy oh yeah blue point to to get loose then as you can see there there's a flathead screwdriver in the middle of the tool well slightly loosen it put in our feeler gauge I normally like to have they tend to to have a little bit of drag I go a little tighter than usual just as a preference and right about there is perfect you can somewhat hear the drag on the feeler gauge then obviously you got a hold the flat-head screwdriver and tighten the ten mil and hopefully the screwdriver itself doesn't move so it doesn't put more tension and it should have and the first one is good you spin the motor over get the next load on the upright position again now you're gonna just do this another too many times and we're gonna see you being done the exactly so last but not least obviously is tighten it back up put the velcro back on that's a wrap on our K series camshaft swap here at k tuned big thanks to Rui for all the hard work we hope that helps you with your own cam swap be sure to go to our Shopify page our eStore check out all our swag and you know what you can even buy some camshafts on our store side too so cool tricks up speed Academy dot shop so it's a fairly common failure point on on these motors yeah what is this especially high mileage so just on mileage than the spring where's that spring result and there's the teeth that actually lock the tensioner in place they start wearing out and within time and just round off and it skips it you just skip the tooth

Channel: Speed Academy

Views: 301,596

Rating: 4.913341 out of 5

Keywords: Honda, K20, K24, K20A, K24A2, K20Z3, cam swap, cam, install, camshaft, remove, removal, DIY, How to, guide, steps, step by step, how to swap cams, how to swap K20 cams, how to swap K series cams, type R, Acura RSX, Acura TSX, honda civic, EK, DC2, EG

Id: txvwWJmxB3U

Length: 13min 25sec (805 seconds)

Published: Wed Dec 13 2017