IFSC Climbing World Cup Xiamen 2019 - Lead Finals

[Music] you [Music] you good evening and welcome to a lovely and warm shim and we're right on the coast of the South China Sea for the penultimate IFS see lead World Cup of 2019 I'm Charlie Bosco got a very very special guest alongside me in the form of Margaux haze Margaux we talked about it a little bit with your compatriot Maggie hammer before the semi-final but we have to mention it again this venue here in Sherman is absolutely extraordinary not really like anywhere else I think we've had a competition like this so it's a new experience yes goo go back and watch the semi-finals from earlier on where you will see some daytime video of the the venue here we're basically in a five-star hotel it's not yet been fully completed there Roman pillars everywhere there's marble floor it's the most extraordinary venue for a climbing competition I have ever seen and as for the wall itself we're right in front of the wall it's not particularly steep quite create actually when I walked up to the wall for the first time I realized it was relatively I guess it isn't very steep and that surprised me and but I don't know I think it's it's really it's they did a good job good job getting creative we got the men up first by the way we had a look at the men's really it looks like route reading of bikini body positions quite technical yeah they were saying that there aren't a lot of places to rest so it seems like it's pretty sustained probably little mistakes will be costly but I guess we'll have to wait and see and in terms of the overall standings for the year Adam Andra cannot seal the title here in sheer men but chancer could seal it over in the women's yes climbers now being introduced Sean Bailey into monera sake already out tastes a Hummer now free lead finals in 2018 but he's never picked up a World Cup medal can he change down here in sheer men tonight regulation eight men through including this man's Meiji now sake the second of the narrow sake brothers to be introduced again another man that's never won a lead World Cup medal remember II picked up a bouldering won in Vail last year Jesse gruffer a man I'm sure you know well it's only a sixth World Cup this is first final I'll bet so he knows Lopez out next something of a sensation in 2019 picked up third place in crown and then second place in the European Championships a couple of weeks ago in Edinburgh the greatest climate on the face of the earth and he's looked it for much of this season on a lead well he's yet to be defeated in the senior league competition in 2009 tonight though primarily in the form of KY her out a second last time out in crammed he was also second the Balder World Cup in was yang earlier this year believe it or not kya Radha has never won a World Cup has a cost won a ball don't World Championship the climbers can now have a look at the route and we didn't actually have quite as much time to discuss the route as I hope we might say but as you were saying body position Kia route reading key mistakes will be punished they said quite a bit of compression slopers mainly it will be interesting to see the different climbers climb on the route with the different styles I'm wondering how many different versions of this climb we will see tonight yeah we've got quite a series of contrasting stars between the different drivers those two there will put on quite the show you'd expect interesting as as ever to see again who interact with who I guess somewhat inevitably to the Japanese climbers chatting to each other although interestingly then marry Sachi brothers not sticking together seemingly everyone else kind of doing their own thing I think it will be interesting to see since we have a range of very experienced world cup competitors and then also some young ends it will be interesting to see the contrast between how they do on this route knowing that this route is so strongly based on how it's read and how its interpreted and you made an interesting point when we were down the front of the world earlier on you're saying that the average age of the climbers is quite young we've got four climbers under 20 or younger tonight yeah unreal don't know if there's anything in that but it certainly makes me feel old the men's route which is called the glimpse to it right the boss is really unusual start it's a symmetrical two sets of symmetrical volumes simply mantle up in between it's interesting it seems like they've been liking the mantles for the start of the routes here in the the women's semi-final we also had a mantle which was slightly nerve-racking and every almost everyone looked like they felt slightly uncomfortable on it so I'm I'm actually looking forward to watching the men on this and see how they tackle it and you climbed earlier in the semi-finals despite the heat we get here in sheer man it seems like the wall stays in pretty good condition it did stay relatively cool and we had a little bit of a breeze I think coming off of the ocean it's nice being in this location versus some of the other places that we've competed in China where you feel like there's very stagnant in the air here there's a little bit of movement and I think that's really helpful yeah we are literally 50 meters from the sea if it was a clear day from our commentary position we'd be able to see the white sandy beach here we can have a good look close up at the route pretty quick look through it from our Chinese directory if anyone climbs it at that speed and will be impressed and that's where they're heading up to the top we're trying to get a hold of a route map inevitably because we had the semi-finals earlier on today the route setters and working till quite close up to the staff of the final on the route map and making my new changes and making tiny decisions so the route map is only finalized at the last second so we don't yet have a copy of it we will try and get hold of one so that we can have a guesstimate at scores as a climbers go it's interesting to see because I always wonder when when the routes are heavily based in one color I always find it harder to memorize the route when I go back into I so and so I wonder if that is part of the tactic of the route setters I'd be interested to ask them if that kind of increases the complexity of the route or not because I feel like if there's more variety in the colors you can remember the holes when you go back and ISO and you can kind of visualize it in your head but when all the holes are similar in color it makes that a little bit more challenging it's a really interesting point actually because it's been a theme the whole weekend here in Shimon that there hasn't been a lot of horizon color the roots have been the same color pretty much top bottom to top two minutes left of observation as you can see six minutes for the climbers as ever they get to 40 seconds individual observation time as well when they first came out to climb Batman there could almost certainly claim the overall title for the season if he were to win here tonight he couldn't quite be done mathematically for Adam Andhra but he's not competing next week in ins I so all he can do is try to win here and then as I say he'll almost certainly be crowned season champion if he does win tonight if he doesn't win it makes a little more open kai Harada and believe it or not it's his first season really consistently make you finals al better he knows Lopez he's still in with a shout of claiming the title things would have to go exceptionally well for him for that to be the case oh yeah but I feel like you never know whoa I'm petitions like this so it's possible what did you know about Chan said before this year not a lot and here she is she could win it tonight so yeah it's it's interesting because I had first I first met her climbing outdoors actually in rifle Colorado last summer and she climbed a route called Bad Girls Club a really beautiful 9a in the wicked cave and I remember meeting her and her family there and then seeing her this year on the World Cup circuit and you just see what an amazing sign there she is both on rock and in competitions on plastic yeah she's been something of a sensation the closest we've had her guest on the men's side has probably been Alberto it kind of been on the fringes we'd seen him in some semi he's been really consistently making finals and he puts on a great show when he gets there saw her beating yeah nearly three out of four competition so far this year yeah a lot of strong women out there yeah it's crazy to to see also with Alberto and just looking at the ages you you look at a piece of paper and you see all of these people with birthdays in the 2000s it's crazy it's really quite amazing yeah it's climb is yeah as I said we've got four climbers out of eight here 20 or youngest it is a relatively young final that's how they'll line up as ever coming in reverse order from the semi-final result had big ties in pretty much every round so far but they eventually got close to sorted out and we ended up with eight men through and ended it with nine women in their family beater monera sake out first and Sean Bailey tie so Hana Machin era sake Jesse gruffer Alberto he knows Lopez Adam Andra and Kai Harada so for Japanese climbers two Americans a check and a Spaniard making up the final eight as I say we've had ties quite a lot of the way through we got a couple that we could do with sorting out here in the final there Sean Bailey and taste a hummer are currently tied all the way through the competition on all three routes to two in the qualifiers and the semi-final Alberto Heena's Lopez Jesse gripper and Adam Andra are all tied as well so just so you know if they are tied if those people are already tired and are then tied in the final if it's for a place on the podium we'll come down to time on the route so when those climbers are climbing we will keep a particularly close eye on the clock doesn't happen too often but it has happened exactly yeah I've been out of World Championships yes if it's replaced not on the podium then they they are at they can't I you can have a joint fourth joint fifth whatever but you can't have a tie the podium so if its replacement the podium and climbers are tied it will come down to time as as you say it doesn't happen that often but we have got those three tied in second place I'll bet Oh Jessie and Adam and then Sean today say also tied enjoyed sixth right now so there's the possibility it could happen that's where they're headed the top and you can see in the background path of the hotel complex we mentioned it earlier on absolutely amazing venue there is talk that it's going to host us and not just a competition next year that would certainly get my vote it is palatial that's the scene meant to be on the left and then the completion of the men's final would then half the women and that's how the women will line up as I say ties over on the women's side and we've ended up bringing nine climbers through into the final looked Karaka which I Maureen that Suki tani of Kenya Kazbek over Jane Kim hakuna Gucci you Tong it's yang chance and yeah me at Galbraith women's side at 4:00 on the men's side so a good day for Team Japan one of many in the past few years Akira Noguchi just continues to do what she does I got sent some really good stats actually by a friend of mine and he was talking about how many what the number of years that climbers have scored a World Cup ranking point and Akio Taguchi has scored a work at ranking point in 15 different seasons and doesn't show any sign of dropping off so I don't think she's slowing down she's not slowing down one bit I was gonna say enjoy while she's still around but to be honest should probably be around long after we're all done with you I was just a kid just starting climbing you know she was one of the names that I knew and now being here and seeing her and she's still you know one of the climbers on top it's it's amazing when you're warming up to find yourself kind of watching people like a cure and pick stuff up in isolation you just try and keep your head in what you're it's pretty interesting because I was actually talking to some other athletes about this in isolation two days ago and we were talking about how sometimes used to see someone warming up doing something and then you start asking yourself you're like wait should I be dating you know and then you realize you've been competing for over a decade and you're like okay I guess I probably know what I'm doing in warm-ups but at the same time you know you see the other climbers especially those who inspire you and you're like oh maybe that's a good idea should I be trying that there's always more to learn though so it's good to pick things up I guess I would imagine we could all pick something up from Akiane Gucci's longevity yeah I think just caught a glimpse to the crowd there it says she recently full of Nu it's often the case in China when we come here you never really know what you're going to get sometimes we get a big attendance sometimes we don't get many people at all we've got a bigger crowd than we've had in previous years in sheer men this year earlier on in Wu Jiang it was particularly well attended chongqing was well attended so it's good to see there the chinese public really getting on side we have a decent sized crowd and it's an empty hotel imagine next year and last night we had a big crowd for the speed as well that was pretty spectacular new speed record broken yes go back and watch that you won't you won't need long to watch the bid I'm talking about evenly just under seven seconds but go back and watch the big final over on the women's side history was made here in she oh man it was pretty extraordinary to watch we've been told that the climbers will be coming out at 7:15 local time it's at about two minutes time I say that is how they'll come out to Monera sake we'll be out first it's actually that ranking is the the pre rank so it will effectively be the reverse of that it'll be a Timon Arisaka who's out first then Sean Bailey taste a homer mate see now at Jesse grouper Alberto Hina's Lopez Adam Andhra and Chi Harada eight men through to the final despite potentially when at one stage it looked like we might end up with an awful lot more but we ended up with the regulation eight it was a little bit surprising after all of the ties in the semifinal round so we could end up with 16 is final yeah it did some people weren't I've seen the semi-final I know but seeing as you did the route and you you fell on the move any insight into did you get the move right body position right because we were trying to figure it out at the commentary box it wasn't immediately obvious it was interesting as our like collapses sorry for the bank it was interesting to see because it seems that a lot of people went more for the slope were rather than the gym where the tick mark was and I don't know if it was due to a lot of girls not seeing the tick mark or whether it was due to wanting to stay more in control and go to the lower part of the holes but what looks like some O's up so jumpin' jumpin' yet tomorrow remember he's allowed 40 seconds in the original observation he took like more like for them to be honest looks like it just wanted to get on with it walked straight out straight on the wall and this is a slightly funky start we mentioned earlier these symmetrical pairs of volumes quite sensibly getting a spot from below actually it looks a tenuous friction base position so you just a slight risk until near a couple of quick draws up I think that his rapid style could actually be very beneficial on on a route like this I really think you're right yeah because from what the route setters tell us it's not a lot of opportunity to rest yeah it's always impressive to watch to mow a climb he looks so comfortable no matter what hold it is yeah he had a strange run in the semi-final he he didn't look especially tired and then just kind of popped off yeah bit of a strange yeah it just made it through in the end second lead final of the year for timon era sake what a world championships he had earlier on this year as well picked up a second hole the world championship as you see him with a tough cross three we're relying on all his bouldering power there yeah two-time boulder world champion he won the combined as well on the power seems to be working out for him needed every bit of it for that you can see how quick these climbers pit off the ground in 90 seconds one of those climbers that shows no sign of fatigue that's the second time his feet have cut loose this hold here he just had his right hand he's about was bring his left hand too we think is about the last place you can take something resembling a rest after that there really is very little opportunity to stop from pretty much where to mower is now then there's a little handle swap on this hold which the climbers made not of red he could really do with that's it yeah bumping up with the right hand you can actually you put the left hand where his right hand was and then go up from there as it was he just chose to bump straight up going really well here tomorrow now exactly yeah about the question that we could see a very early top here 3:45 left on the clock two mowers absolutely flown up this route if it comes down to time I don't think he's gonna have a problem with that no I wonder if that's something that he's suspected reading the route doesn't seem out the question because it in less than three minutes Wow tomorrow now suckiest top the Ruiz bent off the ground two minutes and 40 seconds and he's lowering back down first climb around he topped the route without really pausing for breath was that an exceptional performance symptom onero sake or do we have a route that is going to be a little bit too easy for climbers at this caliber we will soon find out tomorrow will obviously move into first place one thing to be aware of he came into the final in eighth place and he's not tied with anyone so if somebody tops the route regardless of time they could actually go they'll move ahead of him on count back so he could believe it or not end up eighth it's possible it's always it's always hard to know in a final because the climbers that have qualified for the final you know they're all at such a high level that really the first person who comes out could be the only person to top the route well we had this earlier on this year with hilum asana Tschida Umbreon saab he topped the route he was first out he'd never want to work it never went to work at medal so he can't help but think maybe the routes have been under course and as it turned out it was the best performance we saw all night and he won the competition so we shouldn't read just yet too much into an early top especially when it's Timon who claims it the two-time season champion in bowl the two-time world champion and combined champion he's certainly got calibre I feel like those make our sport so exciting great great never know what to expect keeps you on your toes Sean Bailey out next he's never won medals John Bailey he hasn't I think I think that will will come in the future though it was good talking to him earlier he said he felt good in semifinals and felt like he was kind of getting his groove back so yeah it seems one of those statistics it just doesn't seem right that he hasn't won one but he hasn't picked up one in the boulder he's underway now here in Shearman also climbing pretty quickly the recesses said the route the route climbs quickly you know all routes climb quickly when it's too mower on them but with babies dial yeah yeah Sean Bailey's also going pretty quickly it looks like a lot of purchase on the heels Sean lives in trades in San Diego California yeah he said he tries to get on rock you know as often as he can but he's mostly been climbing training for competitions this year yeah second final of the year so far for Sean Bailey speaker Brown some he made the final air ended up sixth had a little hand slip it looked like early the right hand just pops off but otherwise he's looked pretty steady you can see it's just not really much opportunity to stop as we looks like one of he moves on the rib crossing over to this banana looking hold feet cut loose manages to restrict the swing to as small as it could have been holding the core tension there it is interesting I was really impressed by the number of heel hooks required on all three routes that I climbed on this weekend and seeing the final routes it looks like there are quite a few of those present there as well so Joe Bailey couldn't find one there though he slipped that was actually the same move where Samoas feet came off except Shawn didn't quite hold it it's obviously a second climber out that will move him into second six-five is still to go Shawn definitely haven't only been on the wall two minutes looked like he definitely had something left that swing looks absolutely briefly I had to happen to him the same ways it happened to timon difference was two MOA just managed to hold it timon just talking to you could Kobayashi a course former ifs II woke up climber turned Japanese coach let's have a look it's sure on a bit lower down there was a hand pop and wonder if we're about to see it it's right hand just slipped off a bit lower down I'm sure he's gonna be slightly disappointed with that especially if you didn't feel like he really could give it his all you know sometimes we come off the wall fighting and sometimes you come off the wall not knowing quite what happened so hopefully he felt like he could he he he gave it close to what he had in the tank but it looks like maybe he had some left so say Hummer next climber out and lead finals last year yeah made three lead finals last year another climate's never won a World Cup medal and Tacey is one of the climbers that was tied actually yeah he was tied with Sean Bailey so it's all lifts and butts but if it was for a podium place and they tied at the file that would come down to time this could go down as one of the fastest men's finals of all time there it may just I mean I'd be surprised at this point I'm sorry racing of it again heel hooks featuring heavily one and a half minutes elapsed food tastes so hot my first cigarette yeah he's actually shaking out seems like almost the first time we've seen that on this roof that's fire a couple more moves before things get really really serious it's kind of the next three or four volumes after this seems of course the first couple of drivers problems smooth looks like going to that with the right hand is probably easier than the cross but to MOA did [Music] they say Homer managing to to get some pretty decent rests it would seem here feet got loose held the swing with ease it's comfortable on the crimp you just look solid all around swapping heels left and right he's so calm he's rested much more than anyone else said tomorrow is on his way back down at this stage they say hamat he's absolutely fine he's definitely we won't need to worry about time because the person who's tied with Sean Bailey fell lower than this so and like Charlie said if if he ties with two MOA he still will take the lead due to count backs to semifinals I say homo just looking absolutely smooth in control here suddenly the feet cut loose just as I say that pretty still going got many more moves to the top now you can see the top hole beckoning that huge triangular volume feet cut loose again here's the final move Oh manages to hold on to it doesn't count Sally's clip the top quick-draw which he has now that's a top Forte so he'll move into first place ahead of tomorrow and our sake three climbers out so far and two of them have topped five still to go well we will be keeping a very close eye on the clock here because as I say I'll better heating as Lopez Jesse Griffin and Adam Andhra tied all the way through the competition might be about times I say hamat second climber to top the root him in Samoa both found the top and he moves ahead of Timon on count back to the previous round Machin era Saki is out next second of the nura sake brothers and the younger of the two it's always cool to see them competing side-by-side they seem really supportive of each other it's how so Homer I mean tomorrow's got his you never expect to know as to hang around but totally AMA look the smoothest albeit couple a couple of cut losses cut losses you can make it a word cuts loose cut cut loose it's a bit higher up on the route but overall pretty smooth mating era sake now another man that's everyone a lead World Cup medal despite his vast successes did the double last year in Moscow in the 2018 youth World Championships super bold a medal in Vail also in 2018 could today be the day I think he is one of the taller competitors here seems like there's a lot of tension moves that rely on tension and I know sometimes when you're taller that can be slightly more difficult but with his strength at his technique I think he'll be able to make it work yeah not not climbing it quite the same speed as his brother but makes you one of the climbers who isn't tied with anyone so no matter what happens his attempt won't come down to time unless he takes more than six minutes which seems highly unlikely I think it would be hard to take more than six minutes as well I'd be impressed if anyone could tell you six minutes there'd be some good endurance be interesting to see whether he does the cross and he does I agree it looks a more powerful way of doing it super smooth less comfortable I think we might be seeing a couple more talks on this route but there's no way to say for sure I fear we could be yeah it's I think what's slightly ominous it's just a tough move coming up now though there what's so next one to stretch back what looks slightly ominous is the fact that didn't look like a say hamat alter MOA or mate you have really been at their limit and we lose Meiji in one of the worst cases of commentators curse have had for a while I also did the same ROM underground in the semi-final making our sake just as I said it didn't look like he was struggling it slipped for the men and the women actually so mate she will move into third place as it stands it's an now it would be an old Japanese podium would not be unheard of no stranger things have happened so where did we lose him he looked composed control at this stage look to me like it was a hand that when could be wrong now it's the right foot just trying to readjust the feet quite manage it we talked earlier on about the fact that body position it could well be key it seemed that might have been the case over major narrow sake tried to move his right foot and replace it with his left just dislodge the right foot just I think on those bigger feet you're actually paying so much less attention to what your feet are doing and so due to that sometimes you can make errors like that and just be off the wall before you know it Jesse grappa will be out next the venue earlier after the semi-final Jesse is one of those people who is always smiling so you can only imagine what he looked like when he knew that he made the final yeah first final for Jesse not the first final for Sean but I think it might be the first final where we've had two two men qualified so I'm excited to see what Jesse will do I think you know I think he goes into these things and he really goes out there and he enjoys it and that's I think something to aspire to for a lot of people and you can definitely tell that he enjoys his time on the wall and he definitely tries hard that stands right now before Jesse Crawford gets on the wall takes a hammer into Murnau sake leading the way with the top ahead of his compatriots on count back to the previous round Machin era sake second third to his brother 26 for him to slip just don't like executed foot swap Heim the wall and Sean Bailey again feet cut loose and he fell three moves below making arrows sake but yeah Jesse grew up out next it's a good trivia question we had two American men in it in a final I don't know if we have it might be the first at least in a lead final yeah and crazy fastest men's final ever we are already halfway through at this point but the route is climbing quickly and he's getting topped what could Jesse gruffer do tied with Alberto and Adam so he is one of the climbers where we will be keeping a close eye on the clock danced out of the venue after the semi-final there was a happy man in sheer men and this slightly funky start yeah no one's really seem to have been troubled by but it kind of a message with the climbers heads put there to kind of shake up the climbers and see who can stay calm through that and then once they get through it see who can kind of pull it together and ground themselves in order to keep going and start the climbing which is more difficult but maybe slightly less complex looks like he found his way through that moving into the of blue yes it blue exactly it's the main series only 50 meters away is incredible location for a climbing competition we had the drone up in the air early and you really got a feel for it then it is beautiful here suddenly Team USA down in the crowd making a little bit of noise getting behind Jessie for fifth climber out tied with Adam under tied with Alberto he knows Lopez and behind out right behind Kai Harada he was set a high point in the semi final it's interesting because Jesse was mentioning how over the past several months he really hasn't had a very consistent training he's been traveling quite a bit and training in the gyms that he finds but from his climbing at this competition I don't think anyone can argue with the fact that he seems like he's in pretty good shape well some climbers work best by being entirely focused and I guess some work just stacking up and seeing how it goes I think that's true yeah whatever he's doing it's certainly working do you know if he's coming to inside next week I believe he is but I am not 100% I would have to check our our us orders say so these six World Cup he's in his first final yeah he's an impressive climber he's always been an impressive climber as a as a youth competitor as well in the States yeah he hasn't done that many international competitions but he seems to do pretty well in those that he does participate in 310 left for Jessie so climbing the route much slower than tomorrow as I said two Moto's back on the ground within three minutes but sir it won't matter at all for the results as long as he's under six minutes thank you actually getting something back on this hold that I looked at and I thought oh I want to get past that one not if you're Jesse grouper she's got the heal look in place now and now Leivers himself up one more opportunity really I wouldn't say rest but certainly two paws out with the right hand caddie hold the swing I don't think even hit the perfect bit of that right hand he managed to hold the swing somehow got a real fight on his hands now Rico recovered his composure did well to hold that swing because I don't think he had that right hand as good as it could have been no I don't think so either I think he stayed on with his fighting spirit oh we're losing moving out right to the first of the red and black volumes comes down with 207 on the clock how is that in comparison especially the first one of recorded because he's tied with I'm recording him and the two people who side with okay so just gonna keep an eye on the time for Alberto and Adam our better Hina's Lopez will be out next and Adam Andra then Kai Harada he did the cross through movement a little powerful but it looked like he really got the sweet spot of that hold this looked a bit touch-and-go well held something taking a lot of a load there when he kind of swung out he lost him just short like rocking over that heel would have been he a godness hips a little further right I think he would have been able to get onto that right hand hold [Music] adjustments can make make or break the move yes walls for Jessie Alberto gets a bit lower keep your observation I'm off I think we'll be seeing him in many more lead finals in the future it was pretty close to becoming European champion two weeks ago it's crazy stuff he had some tough competition there he said yeah conditions couldn't really be much more different I wasn't in Edinburgh but I've been to the venue and a World Cup there around the same time a couple of years ago it's not warm I would say I have heard any World Cup we're at war sorrel boots some timers probably wouldn't complain too much stuff no I mean conditions on the wall are pretty good but conditions for spectating and maybe not idea not idea of no it's suboptimal yeah it went really well here in Edinburgh went well in Kranz as well third that in Slovenia just over three weeks ago suggested refresh she ended up he'll be in fourth place at least may end up getting bumped down by Adam Kai and Alberto he's ahead of Sean Bailey as I say currently city fourth place tasty homo still leads away with Timon our sake and mates ago ii currently taking the podium spots i believe he just did that move without matching his left hand in before crossing to that banana hold impressive really strong and it's such a young age too so climbing quickly only two minutes elapsed now better he'd know slope is already heading out right he's got a battle on his hands he um I think he read that really well I think he knew his feet were going to come off how high he was angle at which his arms were vent yeah I think he knew the swing was coming where is it I think it's cost a couple of climbers by surprise slops slaps to the top of that red volume the roots Esther's wondering if the climbers would read that they've read it perfectly Alberto he knows Lopez we will have to keep a close eye on the time not to separate him from Jessie cropper he's already moved ahead of him but it could potentially be crucial three years zero three left on the clock for Alberto so if we lost Adam at that point and if it was report in place it would be decided by timeout we shall see but a good battle from Alberto he knows Lopez you can see never comes down from the wall having left anything up there gives it absolutely everything he's gone like Charlie was saying you can see on this move it almost looks like he knew that his feet were gonna cut so he prepared for it it's I think he's the only climber I couldn't recall who's really kind of been ready for this wing not being caught out by it so Adam Ondra will be out next and chairman we weren't expecting to see him compete he was going he was always going to come to shear men because of the speed here is in the lead you haven't been following it in order to get to the Olympics election events been to lose which is at the end of November you have to have competed in at least two World Cups in each discipline and Adam had only done one Speed World Cup and therefore had to come to shear man just to participate in the speed woke up therefore make him eligible for to lose but he figured hey and there why not have a go at the lead maybe win another World Cup maybe win another World Cup he's won 16 already and and potentially when end of the season title amazing to think he is yes and a win here would not quite mathematically do the job because he won't be an ensign next weekend to pick up any more ranking points but it'd be pretty pretty close which considering yellow knee have competed in four competitions would be pretty impressive yeah in fact excuse me three would have only had competed in there in three which is astounding but he'd have won them all if he wins here which helps I said earlier on Adam is yet to be beaten in a league competition this year he's won the two World Cups he's entered before Shearman he won the world championship lead and he won the european championship lead two weeks ago has he had any other seasons where that's been the case I don't think he's had any unbeaten seasons sadly unlike yanyu in the boulder it won't be a clean sweep because I'd say the only goods have competed in half the events but still guess it was quality over quantity this year yeah only entered three World Cups but won them all too bad record going pretty well so far on this route which is already big top twice quickly seems to be the style of the night deserve an awkward match there yeah quite a powerful way with his hands right in front of his face like that it was interesting because knowing he's one of the taller climbers out here I would have expected him to do with the crossing method but he's going to use the match now what will he do with the swing here will it catch him out or will he ever read it it seems like Alberto he knows Lopez method of going high and getting on to it so that your hand is almost level with your face looks promising looks promising kind of different method but also ends up high on the hold remember time only matters relative to Alberto he knows Lopez and to Jesse grew up it doesn't matter for Adam against anyone else if he tops the root and then CAI Gerardo tops it Adam will be beaten on count back but first things first got to try and find the top creeping up with the right hand he'll hook in place interesting duel texture volumes good on the fingers yeah it makes the climbers think a little bit more the black but it's very high friction red bit it's very low friction Adam having time to shake out looking relaxed he's in his natural environment isn't he on the lead wall yeah he is he's always climbing like he's on a mission to definitely nobody has the same style as Adam Adam Andra lining it up for the top now here he goes on Oh does one more move than the other climbers instead of going direct from the top now he goes through the top needs to get the quick-draw click before it counts as a crowd for a bit of encouragement that is Adam Andhra top in the room he'll move into first place all he can do is watch his car Harada comes out Adam Andra showing why in four competitions so far this year he has not been beat and he could make rated perfect 3 / 5 competition 5 wins in the lead in 2019 but Kai Harada might have something to say about that you'll see I definitely looked confident during the semifinal round earlier today few highlights from Adam I mean there was no point really where I didn't think he was going to top the route to be perfectly honest I can't disagree with you never really took any big risks are there there were no no cut loose and the feet didn't look especially trouble at anytime really this was the only surprise I got you could see him look at the top hole and then he did an extra move at the left why are you doing that we've seen that a bit from Adam under this year haven't we in my ring and been having some fun with it definitely a strong group of finalists yeah an incredibly strong group of finalists both the men's and the women's side so it's all about Cara Harada now the maths for him is is about as simple as it gets kaya needs a top to win here and as I said it's hard to believe but he's never won a World Cup must he's been closer than on a couple of occasions have been second in a boulder World Cup this year second in a lead world cup this year he's a world champion but he's never actually claimed a World Cup win it and he'll need to find the top here in Shearman if he's going to change that interests in this role that he's able to focus first thing he does is blow the below the first couple of holes clear not fazed by the moment at all a little bit of the gunk off the volumes maybe very confident I think it's just a little trick for the route setters make the climbers rely on friction just kind of mess with them a little bit as they first leave the ground card it doesn't look bothered at all makes me feel a little unsteady not if you're Chi not if your car you said yeah firing up the first few moves he's a really powerful climber he's climbing style is relatively similar to is compact riittää MOA that kind of springy style he always looks so focused too that spring key style does seem to be pretty common in the Japanese climbers especially the males so interesting enough Corrado although he comes into the final in first place having won in inverted commas the semi-final atop wouldn't even get him on the so would get him onto the anything other than the top sorry will not get it mother Tony it's what I was trying to say he will need a top here but as Charlie was saying time is not important know him he can talk with the second left its struggle to see how he's going to take four and a half minutes from here he can a few obstacle racing be interesting to see if the women's route climbs in a similar style or not well Chi is looking extremely smooth it's looking that way isn't it would be an exciting first World Cup win for him that's a bit of a risky move going up there with the right hand but he executed it just fine that's a penultimate quick drawer now so controlled he goes Kai Harada people over the left with feet cut loose he managed to hold onto the swing it was almost a yawn your swing feet out behind the hips but he hung onto it three minutes 30 left's a time not a factor in any way for Kai Harada just got a couple more ribs to execute and he could be closing in with his first ever work up when one final chalk up one final committing move up and right executed it perfectly here he goes to the top of investors in Oh Kai Harada will be kicking himself chose not to do that extra move at the left hand that Adam Andra didn't he missed the top hold and that was for the win and that means that out of Andhra will win all three World Cups that he competes in in the lead in 2009 seen he won the World Championships he won the European Championships and he will also win here in Xie xiè Radha he's never won at woke up you cannot get much closer than that no it's crazy too because grabbing that last hold would have been a win for him but not grabbing that last hold actually kicks him off the podium doesn't even pick up a medal Oh Kai we talked about Adam just before he went to the top got the left hand set and then when yeah and Kai very confident maybe overconfident just launched for it but he's not at all climbing it was a long way to go from there I have to say I thought it was in the bag when he did this move here and then what happened it looked almost like the right hand maybe they'll throw that on replay again maybe not but um it looked like the right hand almost dry fired off of that hold you know sometimes you wonder if that that comes down to sometimes when you're a younger competitor maybe when you get to the top you get a little more excited and so you rush it a little bit versus being a little bit more of a veteran and then taking your time up there but really his climbing even though he didn't stick that last move he looked extremely comfortable I would say he will be comfortable but it came down to who held on to the top hold and it was Adam Andre who held on through it for the win he finishes ahead of Tyson Hama and timon era sake on count back to previous rounds Kai Harada who had the win literally in his hands ends up in fourth place Japan take two of the medals could have taken three almost Alberto he knows Lopez ends up fifth makes you narrow sake sick jesse group of seventh and Sean Bailey in eight so the climbers being presented to the crowd the podium is is Samoan our sake in third place they say Homer picks up his first lead World Cup medal in second place but really this lead season has been the choreography just gets salt it happens every time this lead season has been absolutely dominated by that man right there Adam Andre he's been absolutely spectacular he might reflect that perhaps he was slightly lucky tonight that Chi Harada did miss that top hold but what did they say to finish first first you must finish we managed to top the route well sport all sport including climbing comes down to micro details he got himself in a better position for the last move and he pulled it off and Kai Harada couldn't but yeah interesting final I was worried we might see five or six tops as it was ever on the podium topped and ever another the podium didn't top yes we are hoping to hear from Adam on July by the way I should warn you we don't have a direct communication with the Chinese director who is giving us our pictures so I may not get much warning of when the interview is about to start looks like it could be fairly imminent Eddie is in position ready to chat to Adam thanks to Eddie for doubling up he's been taking photos all round and then we dragged him in to do interviews looks from that shot like they might not be too far off all right let's hear from Eddie and more importantly Adam Andre Adam andra winner and Shimon 2019 you're making a habit of it this year dream season especially for the lead would never tell that it would be even possible today with such a strong strong field which is pack to win every single come that I attempt and obviously now you have got plenty going forward to Toulouse you've got results and all three disciplines will we see you and insight or are you secure to go and train for Toulouse now I'm pretty sure I go back home train and get us ready as possible for the Toulouse would be distraction kind of nice and positive distraction maybe but I rather want to play it safe or too loose because that's what that's what actually what really counts this season excellent well congratulations again and see you in just over a month until loose thanks saying Enzo might be a nice distraction but he's got his eyes on Toulouse there's only one thing he wants out of this season isn't there 2020 yeah I was interested from Adam sometimes he could seem really really kind of hyped up I've interviewed him live after some victories and he's he's kind of bursting with excitement that time something more chilled out it wasn't even expected to be climbing here a week ago no I think maybe the fact that he kind of decided to do it last minute it took some of the pressure off of him and he just went out there and kind of did what he does best yeah you can see it top for Adam Andre wins in the competition on count back to actually was a qualifiers not the semi-final but wins it on count back against a helmet and tomorrow now sake sky gerardo in 4th and alberto he knows lopez may genero sake Jessi gripper and Sean Bailey rounding out the top a okay I believe we may have a short break actually we're on a Chinese TV schedule yes so before the women's presentation and observation we're gonna take a short break if you watch it at home gonna put the kettle on crack open a cold one it's suddenly afternoon in you can crack open a cold room we'll speak to you very shortly for women's presentation and observation when I'll be joined by Lana yet so Margot you are free to go but thank you very much your time is very interesting having you alongside me [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] hello welcome back to shear man some lovely warm evening here on the shore of the South China Sea Charlie Bosco here a substitution for Margo Hayes in the culinary box with regular here Elana Yip joining me for the women's final of women being introduced now as we speak recently crowned that European champion looked karate retches first alta first of two Slovenian climbing in the final this evening I'm re will be out next she's getting the big intro I'm Mari here she is she of the mega endurance she might get tired but we've never seen it if she does already picked up a 3rd in Wu Jiang in the bouldering earlier on this year as well as in Vela in Hachioji so 3 World Cup medals across two disciplines already in 2019 Natsuki Thani the next climber out of 4 Japanese climbers four men four men three women you have City right if Kenny Kazbek over at out next I was so excited to see her make the leap final here yeah it's brilliant it's a good story yeah she's amazing she made both her finals in hachioji and speaking of amazing Jane Kim 29 World Cup wins nobody's ever managed more than that Akira Noguchi is not too far behind friends sent me a statistic the other day Akina Gucci has scored ranking points in 15 ifs see seasons seasons Wow also in the final in Germany where she was second and also made the final in brownson she's having a very strong 2019 as well look pretty handy in the semi-final speak here people are having a strong 2019 chay answer is absolutely killing it this year she's provided that woman there yeah Negara with the stiffest and most unexpected of competitions this year they are tied all the way through the competition if they both get the same score on this final route it will come down at a time and I think the same for I am Luca if they make the podium yes if it's for a podium position and the climbers are tied all the way through the competition then as you rightly say it comes down to time yeah and it is Luca and I who are tired and Janna and Kayne who had ties it's not all for them Jessie listen home it's the pair's god forbid it Behe complicated this is a kind of a crazy list I mean all of the lead finals have been like this this year but there are four girls who it's their breakout season yeah yeah negan bruh out of the out of the nine as yet Malin finalist is actually the fourth oldest we still think of her as kind of this young up-and-coming beast no she's in the older half of the lineup but then we've got a Jane Kim in a Kia Noguchi both born in the 80s good to see the bond in the eighties hey I'm 93 well were the other exception yeah you see it looks cute and young you're comparing notes they're kuna koochoo in the background doing her own thing picks up podiums in sixty World Cups The Cure Noguchi the longevity is absolutely breathtaking you think about how hard it is to get on a work at podiums till it's 60 times James 129 of them so much is it's incredibly impressive to see these younger climbers and it is a particularly young lineup yeah I'll be really impressed if they're still doing it in 15 years like it's a very interesting mix here with akhirin Kim Jane and and all the youngsters so yeah they're not participating in Edinburgh in the IFS see European Championships a couple of weeks ago that was won by that lady sense of stage there with the black hair looked Careca you're back in action after a disappointing Quran still finished in the top 10 if you haven't here after all but at first time she'd ever missed a lead final and only the second time she's ever missed sorry that was the second time this year she's missed early sorry semi final yes but only the third time in her life she's missed any final since we turned the microphones back on I've gone numbers numbers crazy can't seem to get the numbers right Yeah right yeah mister a couple of lead finals watchin yeah Mia the boulder season was wrong with that picked up the three World Championships in the space of eight days in hachioji wasn't much wrong with that and also won a lead World Cup this year but at times has not looked like yeah Mia and it sometimes feels when you watch something that she'll have a good weekend and that a bad weekend it's not been like the boulder season where you come turned up and every week you just saw its fella in the lead season maybe she's been slightly thrown by chayim and your tongue yeah right on her yeah I don't know but it's it's felt like she's been a little more erratic in her form in the lean world Cubs yeah I don't know maybe she focused more on um bouldering and our training this year I don't know for sure but a speculation yeah she was yeah she really wanted that Boulder title and I think once she got to probably think what she'd won four World Cups I think she was pretty focused on winning six yeah I remember in Vail she certainly was feeling the pressure yeah that was emotional as I've ever seen it in Velen that was an amazing moment I would say maybe you could wonder if she's taking their eyes off the ball but given the fact that she won as I say three world championships and eight days but I think that this year the big thing was the Olympics and her other secondary big thing was the all the Boulder World Cups so I think you know everyone deserves to relax a little bit yeah absolutely it's it's just we're so used to a basically steamroll during yeah everything I mean particularly in lead she's one if she doesn't win the overall season title this year be the first full lead season she's done when she hasn't the title 2016/17 to have 18 she wondered the midseason title yeah it's interesting yeah no she's I've certainly felt leave this year that you didn't really know what you gonna get for them yeah right pretty well so far yes although the roots haven't been particularly difficult for the fields no the top of the field that else yeah and we've talked about this quite a bit I feel I don't know if you agree that there is a bit of a gap in the women's league climbing between the top handful and everyone else yeah and I think that's really shown this week absolutely yes we have a big stopper move on the semi-final yeah and then we just had a handful that got through it and didn't even look trouble by it yeah I think I think there's some see a difference in endurance and also the power power endurance to have enough power to get through a move like that at you know at 10 meters or wherever that move was probably around 10 meters so in last five seconds of observation just look around all the climbers still out getting every second they can at times we've seen climbers feel they've got the route figured out and have a drift off 10 seconds early but here look as it could this evening was fairly straightforward so maybe the women's route it's not gonna be not too different in terms of style of think you'll need to read it right a lot of volumes rather than yes I think a lot of times instead of aiming for a specific trim but specific pinch or whatever you're aiming for the volume and how you use it and how you move around it could be so crucial that's how they the nine women will line up remember it is 9:00 in the women's final tonight had a tie in the semi crown run a really big tie could have ended up with 16 women in the family don't bet it was stressful for the route sisters we ended up with nine in the end looks correctly which I'm are in that Suki tummy if didn't do cosmic over Jane Kim Akina Gucci you Tom Jack chancer and yeah Mia gone Bret yeah we nearly ended up with a massive final yeah that would have taken a long time okay well luckily the man boss has loads of time by having their final wraps up in 35 minutes yes it's on the bar exactly they were on the clock maybe someone had a flight to catch but we'll see with the expected the style to to be not dissimilar the rubes body tension could all be all beaky quite a few moves as well where if you commit to doing them and you commit to doing them wrong it'd be pretty hard to imagine coming back and correcting mistake I like seeing that on women's roots because you don't see that as much as on the men's roots I find where you can mess up the sequence and so continue it's better yeah I agree I think it's a route that will punish mistakes quite severely always bear in mind that we are entirely speculated we've taught to the roots as they've been on it but we haven't been on the route until the climbers getting let loose on it as we saw with the men's room my predictions game has been probably weaker than my maths game recently which is really saying something I predict games been really bad so take everything you've heard in the last 10 minutes not just a pinch of salt take the whole pot we could get anything here you can see where the root didn't go it's immediately rise in the meandering kind of follows the same shape and curving initially out to left and coming back right they look very similar yeah we saw the same in the semi-final kind of followed the a similar line yeah that's true you Kobayashi there Japan just down the front very nearly saw Kai Harada pick up his first ever World Cup win oh there was such a heartbreaker you know it's so fresh on the last waves yeah a hundred percent thought he had it I was just kind of speculating maybe there was a slight overconfidence instead of really getting set yeah it just kind of launched for it you know you saw with Adam more experienced did one extra move a little more solid but a for ambition for color I mean he just saw the top hole coming and thought I am going for it yeah and was not far sure never want to work off and ended up not even on the podium he needed to top to make the podium he's never won a World Cup but he did win the world champion I did pretty good consolation I'm not sure it feels like a consolation to him right now provider right now but it's just one of those interesting little stats work I Harada particularly this year felt life felt like every big occasion he's been there he will not get much closer I mean he had a hand on the holding quite bring it home I can still see it up there wants to go up on the on the cherry picker pull it down throw it on the fire right now carry her arms probably looking up at it yeah not today sadly for him hopefully next week got one more lead rod cup left yeah exactly got another lead world cup and there's a hole one home one few climb is not going as well I mean Adam Andris not going Alexi room so from what I understand this still talk to a couple of other people that aren't going so could be an opportunity for Kai but there'll be more Japanese because of the host country quota right well that's it yeah I'm expecting to next week find out that there are actually a dozen more world class climbers in Japan than that initially realized yes I'm sure every time you go to be pumped it kind of realize oh yeah I'm absolutely rubbish most people in here would probably hold their own in a world cup yep qualifying round presumably you're coming over yeah I think most people are making the trip over it mainly been training facilities are really much better in Tokyo different Tokyo than just about anywhere else actually yeah everybody loves Tokyo too you know we're all just there month and a half ago or whatever it was I think everyone's ready to go back yeah I think all it's been interesting is I haven't heard a hint of two weeks in Tokyo kind of rather be at home everyone to go back get back to people yeah it could be it could be a really fun week coming up actually never sure things to do in the world's biggest city knock a just let you know by the way if you're wondering why we've had slight delay with following the Chinese tea TV schedules so the director how quickly they got their route done because it meant we had a bit of a delay they also meant that we had a bit of a delay before Lutzke came out so we're sticking to the TV children we are taking our pictures from the Chinese TV as we always do for the finals these days in China so let's go underway first of nine not the regulation eight because of the tie between her and I throughout the entire competition yes they are tied all the way through yeah from both qualifiers two cities yeah topped both the qualifiers and then both got 33 plus remove so yeah it looks good to see already had a good season European champion four hours ago ratha and edinburgh issues on the South China Sea looking big results in there [Music] just keep an eye on the time we will get a clock on screen for you in just a second please use a woman at bedtime I'll try and keep you informed until the monkeys on screen remember if they were tied in the file and if it came through down for a podium place let's get an eye Maury trying at the clock on screen and if it doesn't appear on screen I will try let's turn around at the key moment I've just been told apparently we will be getting the clock at any moment [Music] found this weekend in the venue that a bit like the sea 50 meters away that Wi-Fi comes in waves sometimes sometimes we get the scores quickly sometimes the clocks there sometimes it disappears for a while yeah the tide was out breeze is that the just getting the VPN or the Wi-Fi itself how's the job you're responsible I just look at my screen and talk how it gets there so carry on rinsing we would maybe let's get back to the clam yeah I think people at home probably figured now let's get back to rinsing it looks Karaka untroubled as yet on this woman's route the to dark green balls red really they're the only features it's a maze of volumes of that Margot Hayes can assist some very interesting brush tip and when all the holds in the same color like this you gonna make really bit harder you ever got many landmarks for sure and when you're going to a lot of jibs on volumes sometimes it's hard to remember where every jivan every volume is when you're up like 30 moves so we believe that she said we've got a provisional route map which encircles the scores I'm judging it'll provisional but sir she's approaching hold 30 she's so 28 29 would be the next triangle of on you yeah the top is 38 just to give you an idea of how far up [Music] it's really signaling issues so far no nothing seems to be to committing [Music] now we were expecting it to look a little bit more committing just as a foot slipped that will put your heart in your mouth you can see it just shake it a little bit there yes this is 28:29 obviously already you can see a lot more opportunity to rest at the head of the men's room 38 the top and you can see it beckoning already 32 so next note extra volume which having to fight a little bit more now she's powering into the upper section that's all 34 there is an ultimate quick-draw we know looked gerak of it she's on fantastic form right now it's the root a little bit undercooked we worried it might move to more narrow sack you ended up actually only getting three tops probably two too many but yes but I was worried about five or six looks good yeah and two fights keep the left foot on that to push her for a moment she's definitely gonna be a fight on her hands all of a sudden this is a big move out to the top oh man some little tubes you can see the tick marks showing her where they are and she comes up just short for a couple of minutes before she just began to look a little bit tired but only just just yes so really very minimal difficulties up to that stage she doesn't look super happy I think she thinks the rudest bit undercooked yeah I think you could be right so let's go first out and I'm Maury he's out next doesn't seem to get tired so we'll see how she deals with the route she could arise at the bottom were pretty big we'll see how she deals with them as well yeah cuz taller than I so maybe she's she's cruised the lower set and then found she was getting a little tired near the top maybe the other way around for I'm Lori perhaps look at this top move she was good at the left I think by the time the right haven't got there she was already on the way down you can see it in the spotlight probably the last thing you want when all you want to do is get your shoes off and super happy exactly there you go this is being a light so we'll be yeah as I say I'm re out next here she comes she's been there one of the stories of 2019 a lot of people really enjoyed watching her you might remember in hachioji and made a fairly major route Reading area in the lead final and then looked absolutely gassed wasted loads of energy and then suddenly that was amazing like when you pick up a bonus in Mario Kart suddenly you just went back up and just five ten moves further on it was like nothing ever happened yeah a few people certainly messages about that I mean when I got back to the hotel was look it what's up was that with my Maury yeah amazing performance and she's even amongst the standard of work that lee fong has got exceptional endurance that moment in Hachioji was for me very much like the moment where Shawn in the combines qualifier said click yes and I think I shed a tear or two healthy was a lot riding on that same flavor and I was sure he loved his lines no just like I bear down and didn't think oh it's a big move Luke up made this one min look long as well yeah yeah often when we see someone cruise a series of moose season and the next time it comes out to expect them to cruise it as well kind of forget it was body shape different climbing style Sochi rich guy and iron like complete opposites in their hate spectra yeah I'm worried being positive drop down remember of course they are tied on time if it was to come down through it she was burning quite a bit of time here most important thing is that you don't fall off whilst doing the move that's exactly what's happened for I Mari that is a disappointed result which Karaka I think in part due to her height really was less fun trouble until at least halfway up the route I'm already really struggling and she didn't like the look at that move at all when it had a look at the arrow had volume out to the left decided to go up to the rounded one it definitely looks like that is the sequence but yeah we just look at the route map I think the era had like far out to the left - yeah I mean the one she went for his marketers hold 11 and 12 and then the arrowhead to the left is 13 suggested oh look like she kind of had to look at that two different ways of doing it yeah went for what we think is the right way have to see how the other shorter climbers deal with this as well yeah when that Sookie Tammi who's making her way out now is another of the shorter climbers back in action we did see a couple of events she is again and incredibly strong deceptively strong she also doesn't like to commit to anything no she has got that it's got to be right style yeah I think she might need to channel her in the Janna here I'll just commit to everything inner yeah yeah inner tomorrow yeah exactly might be right it might be wrong but I'm going for it anyway and I'm gonna stick it anyway as well I think we've all got a bit of that and the difference that lemon soup managed to stick here she thinks she could to be channeling a little bit of that so third climber out we've seen almost the top we've seen a full lowdown I feel like we don't really know anything about this room just yet yeah not too much very very initial impressions would be that if at all of the lower section is easier that's only judging from one tall climber and one small apartment I found out a little bit more here from that Sookie Tammi this is where we lost I'm Ari she thought about going to the arrow head out to the left decided to do it that way tsuki Tani's now alter the same problem Thank You Patrick I'm Ori have just a couple of minutes ago [Music] spec's you just have to jump and commit at some stage if she goes makes it work I think it's one of those moves I guess where nothing's going to appear you haven't got much to work with I think I hung around yeah waiting for something different to happen yeah exactly now let's just get me close he's got to go for eventually really well and the quicker you commit the more energy you don't have to get coming up short to get back into climate big moves really big moves yeah firmly got herself back on track now he's interested now internal replay my head looked good climbing picture if there are any more similar moves think any of the next couple moves were about stretching [Music] I'm still up Jane Kim to cover Caylee's only small chance a bit taller than the season height advantages/disadvantages even out at position they should definitely meet one move at least favorite the tall I think often it's easier to make a move that favors of tall climber than an moves at favors and shorter climber but that's sort of the job at the root cellar is to make it even out not sort of it is [Music] so you can turn it back on track definitely giving a little bit pump you can see just puffing their cheeks a little bit Chaudhary okay be careful not to accidentally touch that bolt you got one more clip above that absolutely the limit of a reach that clip drops back down now she's on hold 28 29 to the next blue the next green triangle that one there is 30 so she's touched home at 31 and 32 but hasn't really hung on to them just yet I have to say I think the route looks really tappable so she's pretty it does it does I think she's well advised to kind of figure each move out because I think you'll probably need a top to where he would be my guess 55 seconds to go the top move doesn't Canales to keep one eye on the clock I mean 40 seconds is a long time with the distance to go we take your time for these last few boos so it's 37 plus political recollection see good a score as you can get without topping the route that Sookie actually pretty pushed for time all of a sudden seventeen seconds now needs to get herself set and needs to commit here she goes she comes up short the same as much Karaka she'll move into first place to count back to previous rounds right that top move looks absolutely massive good performance from her well to get through that to lower moves to clearly didn't like the look of it did all that she could do by just committing yeah it was a good commitment and a quick decision to make the commitment from where jenia cosmic OVA will be out next to as you say made the final in Hachioji I'm bothering ya holdin yeah and she made the combined semi final yeah I was talking to someone about Afghani it kind of as we've seen that Sookie I thought actually we saw it from a bit of fun young funny angle I thought she got a leg course on the rope slightly awkward form I think it was because that feel like she put it yeah and here is if getting a cosmic over in the World Championships you seem to be going so well and then in the combined just didn't seem to quite word did it become yeah remember the combined qualifying day well of course you were climbing yeah as he probably paid much attention but it just felt like it just got away from if Kenya just a couple of boulders didn't go right suddenly her head dropped anews it's a shame really but she'll be firmly in Toulouse yes yeah she's very safely into Leo she's had a stellar or a couple results in bouldering Emily which of course the invitations will go out although exactly who's in Toulouse after next weekend it's a yes the Toulouse Olympic selection event is for climbers who have competed in at least two World Cups in each discipline but it's only the top two tops what - yeah - everybody who's already qualified for the Olympics and only up to a maximum of two per country per gender so that means that Japan can send you know a hundred yes further down the Olympic qualification pathway of course we got to European champs Pan Am each continent has its own championship winner of that so still plenty of routes for all the climbers including you in Kenya but if you don't make it to lose your the real - now then myself up for this big move actually just fine using all that bouldering contact strength that's really impressive flexibility from Afghani any problem is thanked getting out to disposition well I was worried for a second I thought she really needed to heal he was worried she was gonna try with the tow Wow where was he was really good flexibility in the way it looked like it made the move a little harder I think so yeah kind of ended up with your feet too high and she spent a lot more time there messing her out of there key that you had to yes 3:45 left certainly not climbing as quickly as Avenger it did all done and dusted for most climbers within two three minutes really fast route but these these girls aren't worried about time these women aren't worried about time know if Kenya is not tied with anyone by the way so time won't be a factor in her result just how high she gets yes exactly so ideally at least jumping for the top you know jumping for the top yeah gently for the top we put in first place for now yeah provisional first but of course these four climbers sorry five climbers after her yeah could have been 16 yeah go back and watch the semi-finals if you didn't earlier on we just had this one move and I don't think the route setters had really felt it was one of the cruxes it was think it was something like that yeah it was served up yeah it was it was amazing how many climbers but we're struggling on exactly the same move we saw a couple of different methods meanwhile if Kenya is heading out on the Traverse right woods so I've got quite a lot of distance to cover actually with only 220 left on the clock which is definitely to tell the pumps kicking in one of the advantages of private workers interview stuff quicker there is as long as I get tired and she has been there relatively long for minutes on the wall already she's gone what a climate still - no actually she's on hold 27 about 38 so you could probably do with getting a bit of a move on and we saw from that Sookie tan is possible to rest or at least think about the top moves stopped them pretty much every black and red volume so it's not like once she gets up there she's got to just keep motoring really fight it now slapping up with that right hand onto the final green triangles yeah it's to punt came she seemed like the pumpkin came quite quickly okay pretty fish see they're glad just be off her arms if Kenny a cosmic over gave that one absolutely everything it'll move her into fourth for now it was already looking good for comfortably make it to to lose the Olympics election amendment this result really helped [Music] so this was when yes she was sad to look really tired that's slap with the right hand yeah I see there once she skipped the clip you knew that she was just going for the plus yes just whatever she could get [Music] so we could see the ear schools that Sookie Tammi leading the way ahead of lukovitch or count back both of them attempts at the final move sticky any on cosmic over ends up mid third I'm re who sadly slipped it pretty lowdown going for quite a reach she move not really suited to her style the current overall rankings of things are to end now for qualification for Toulouse remember you best this is best to results it's currently 13 this is this list though is subtracting everybody who is already qualified for the Olympics and every third or everybody who is not in the top two of their country so it's a representative yeah going into Toulouse if Kenya sitting in thirteenth place which of course with 20 going she's pretty comfortably in there just checking where you were 15 yeah in there that'll do Jane came out next and the queue Noguchi you Tong Jiang Chen sir and the enneagon were at the fire four climbers still to go the two veterans first Jane and Akio really strong final five actually I mean if you were to talk about the greatest competition climbers of all time on the women's side certainly there'd be three names absolutely and it'll be Jane out next be interested to see how she gets on with that move where we lost time re she is also like I she doesn't like to commit too hard so it's gonna require a going for it his years Jane Kim hunting that xxx World Cup wins you would be the first person ever to win 30 world comes if she could do it not a bad tally she's currently type of the way with Keo that's Sookie no sorry just just a cute oh yeah all the way through yeah all the way through so good would come to time if they're tied on the year on the CPC starting of what sure kid if she's halfway up she can look and see how much time she has left without having to look down at the timer on the ground always going to watch Jen came to climb I was setting if I could climb like anyone I don't know I I might choose tomorrow myself actually I just love the the cruising holla truce look though yeah like it's nothing yeah when she falls off it you don't get a gut a groan from the crowd you get a gasp its you just can't can't believe she's fallen off [Music] so she's just a couple of moves short now where we lost I'm re see how she deals yeah she also kind of wondering how to tackle it I think she won't be too troubled by it now yeah full commitment so 37 plus leading the way 38 is the top hold of course you could score a 38 if you didn't manage to you've got to quit the top quick draw for it to count to the top but oh it looked a little sketchy for a minute with both say unit Yaya and semi-finals yes this clip was so far away I actually spoke to you about that at lunch oh yeah I can't believe it I couldn't reach too quick to get up get back on and kind of shuttle back getting a bit of a better position [Music] so remember [Music] speaking of Chairman Yanni they're both tied as well so time definitely a potential factor think time is a factor here for Jane cubed as well 320 left's really only halfway through the route Wow yeah yeah barely halfway really I think she's I mean hold 19 is that one there just a halfway point and she hits it at half her time perfectly on pace yeah but it could be a medal decided by time obviously though the approach has to be get the route and then worry about the time something about the time before you've done the moves and you are in trouble off the ball [Music] just dingo she's got three green volumes left it should be on to the red black and final eight moves yeah again just keep an eye on that clock two minutes five it's enough time it's not loads of time could have a home world cup from what I've seen in the IFC website a bolder one though yes she has one Bowl two World Cups that's yeah fair she's mostly known as lead climber right now but no it's not like its daughter only didn't do everything she's got quite a bit faster in speed I saw her on Friday get me a little bit faster here as well I think 115 now yeah again she's got time but there are kind of ample rest opportunities and if you take all of them she could struggle a little bit it looks deceptively close and if you really paused on every move you could suddenly find yourself a little bit pushing time yeah I think she's probably timed this to perfection yeah well with all of her experience I think she knows exactly what she's doing I don't think we need to worry about her at all I don't think we do actually know she's time disinfection Jenkins just a little bit lower down looks like she might be pushed for time it she's just cut down on the rest and the shake out so it was a slightly kind of got going it's a tricky little hand swap she wants to get a left hand ideally on top perhaps no leave it there there is a tiny little dip there thought she might put a hand on top so get herself sentences Jane Kim there's no way around the fact that this is a big move up for the top can she do it statically apparently yes she can 12 seconds to go needs to get the rope clipped she will have time to do this Jake it we cook we about to see our first stop of the route there it is four seconds to spare we said she timed it perfectly fantastic stuff and Jacob the legend that is Jacob Louis down off the wall a belay letting her down really slowly that's the so that the crowd could applaud she can soak it up got there according to the clock of the screen it was three seconds to go look run out with the naked eye look like four seconds it's very unlikely to come down to the second but yeah Jane Kim look pretty happy with that one well we both thought that top move looked massive and she just yeah just liked it I just kind of leaned over and there it was yeah if you can lock off of whatever in earth it was she was lucky off on good I want to see someone jump in stick it though battle me I hope y'all you know there it is I mean it's incredibly powerful locking off with your hand I mean kind of level with a bottom of her ribs stop so watch even though the work is done she reached out just a professional well she didn't want it to read over six minutes right yeah there you go Keanu Gucci as ever giving absolutely nothing away when she walks out onto the wall we've often seen her Accio kind of exploded so motion but only when the job is done you don't see any premature celebrating and he waving to the crowd well if you've been to as many World Cups as Akio has been on the podium at you're a very experienced climber so she certainly knows exactly what she needs to get the best out of her climbing as one of the taller climbers it'll be interesting to see how or if she struggles with that that big move that we lost I more yet so she topped one route 35 Plus on the other in the qualifiers yeah yeah go for the top and then the 38 plus in the semi-final so just one top across the three routes that the margins have been pretty fine at the top end of the women's routes over the past couple of days of competition here in chairman lotta tops it's been three days of competition here we had the speed qualifiers on Friday and Lee qualified speed final yesterday and then cross the semi-finals of the finals today a busy few days of the South China Sea uncharacteristic makea the impression she went back down had a quick word with herself quickly put it right another one of those climbers that like Jane Kim is pretty mesmerizing to watch yeah I'll actually be torn between Jane Kim and Akina Gucci but you know my fingers and have someone's climbing stuff I mean sadly I don't think I'll ever have to make the choice nobody's gonna ask any time soon unless my training regime changes pretty drastically that's for sure remember they are tied I may be a factor Jacob currently in first place with the top faster than her though so yeah less than five minutes in 57 seconds 57 according to Claude maybe 56 I mean it if they were tied that closely that the judges were going back and looking at the clock you kind of feel like this just share the medal that's true you end up not on the podium at all yeah we have yeah we have got some tires we'd like to separate [Music] plenty of time left for Akio three minutes down here Jane had pretty much a minute less at this stage [Music] okay get some perspective exactly where she is on the wall final green volume beckons bags of time left just over halfway really I'm the top here well yeah almost certainly unless you can somehow burn two minutes on the phone a few moves will almost certainly move a keel up into first place with three climbers to go she said she said Ben wouldn't have thought you could burn two minutes she's taking a very long rest here now she goes launching into the top section still bags of time remaining just focus on climbing Akio suddenly seems to have stepped up the pace quite considerably trying to get through these boosts this little fatigue is possible [Music] yes a heel hook in place can she have a good this last move was to do it statically will she do it dynamically I think we're about to find out Keo getting herself set to go hit going for the heel look I think she's going for it statically as well leans over creep in that left hand across there it is these two get the clip done little final shake out just gives you an idea she is actually pretty pumped yep she did it very well from Akio Noguchi she'll move into first place ahead of Jane Kim as it is as it stands on time three climbers still to go may not end up even on the podium [Music] first don't worry just realize yeah that's a nice moment to see always when somebody realizes I wonder as well if when she saw the scoreboard she thinks okay two people have taught this already yeah I don't fancy my chances of winning here which is why she might have been a little bit more muted in their celebrations when she actually came down and had had a look at the screen fakira Cucina 15th AFSC season still doing it so you song Jang out next finalist in Xiamen each picked up as a silver medal and also made the final in Brienne Saab having a quick chat with her yes mate she narrow sake tsuki Tammy in the background there was leading the way for a while here's you Tong Jang the only Chinese climber in either the finals this evening suddenly the crowd comes to life have been very quiet so far this evening they are waiting for her they were waiting here thank you you can see the clock ticking away to signify her observation time I think she's gonna take pretty much every second of it you're allowed 40 seconds of observation time before you get on the route which does not count towards your six minutes of climbing time so she said on the wall 20 seconds of lapse just make your way through the red and black volumes I saw this on the memories as well kind of funky slightly funky start for both men and women and yeah it would seem it certainly was a case in the men's route and it seemed in the women's routes perhaps slightly too easy yep kind of the whole way through the competition for the women not sent me so much but qualifiers Yates I mean that's it every week but it needs to be said the recess has got the hardest job in climbing absolutely is making these many decisions do you put a G bomb which jib do we put up to put it the volume at this angle of that angle it can make all the difference when you set the roots in the daytime and then they're being climbed at night the janitor changes so much here I mean earlier on today it was so hot mister and now we're sitting here with jackets on yeah this Uthoff Jang got a picture shout from the embassy as she made that move no no before isn't important be the emcee basically let her know yeah yeah it's a toughest toughest job in climbing and perhaps this evening that just a tiny bit too easy but as you rightly say it's gone from it was over 30 degrees it was so hot in the day to dry breezy cool and windy conditions on the war must be superb though yeah pretty perfect volume super sticky right now yeah they must be to be ideals and there's a nice sea breeze coming in we can see I mean we haven't really had any any big foot slips on this room inside just on the men's side I guess yeah rayji yeah but on the women's side not not really any at all if getting a casbah cover and I Maury in fact the only two climbers from the six who've been up there apart from you Tom not to attempt the last move so sadly on this occasion looks like it's a little bit too straightforward could provide us with a different type of exciting finish so if it came down to tie with chairman Yin Yin I'm sure they're well aware that there who's been topped a couple of times could well be by the time they get here in that tunnel right now right underneath this yeah and so though for sure no though here if say if I ate on top set yeah they will hear it because the crowd comes alive remember she just one of the ki-moon yeah so you Tong of course could win the competition if she talks you'll move into first place and if yang yin che and don't don't top I wouldn't bet on both of them not talk no I would know but he's possible yes anything's possible not likely but possible absolutely - 15 left for you Tom and she don't care just over halfway now yeah and these fairly needs to keep an eye on the time that is for sure yeah we'll see if what foolish for doubting you yeah I know me too yeah big mistake on our house Jamie came here cause I've got it right at the second but this is your tongue is 16 yeah most younger climate matters experience this move crowded kind of getting a little bit Restless trying to see what she'll do now the response you got that absolutely right everybody else did that's totally statically it made it look really hard but that jumped looking way better lot less I think like Jane came she's time this pretty well actually now that she's got this got through those moves minutes ago did negotiate the final section what happened their right hand just gave way yeah and then just she managed to hold on to it yeah I think getting tired and may well have just thought to herself right I'm going [Applause] suddenly the pace goes from fairly conservative to very very fast indeed yeah it seemed to seem to cope quite quickly and yeah suddenly it went from super in control since has the timing about right pretty similar to join Kim in terms of pace suddenly the pub kicked in so interestingly now Yaya and see you being below they probably were around when Akio topped yeah so they probably know the routes been topped yeah I'm will talk us through the journey from isolation here how far is it early would they bring you out so and it's in a building so you definitely wouldn't be able to hear from there the chairs or probably but what was interesting about the men's final is we were saying that the last two climbers families didn't know that the first two climbers had talked because they wouldn't have been in the on deck area when they when it happened although look at the scoreboard facing away from her but and as well I mean there's a lot to be said if you just concentrate on your climbing yeah you know you can think oh they didn't top so then get there I'll be I'll do this and I need to kind of quicker than this person but just top yeah top the ruin your style topic yeah I think sometimes I'm guilty of kind of over speculating what might be going through people's heads and what's going through their head is I'm just going to climb this roof yeah [Music] so che on now winner of three of the four World Cups we've had so far mm see you I've been told it's chilled okay I heard it was saying I have never been to South Korea a little bit of Korean once oh yeah can't remember it I don't know I know we're supposed to cheer for her as Gaja okay yeah yeah we well ii might be heading over there thank you chian didn't seem fazed by that intentionally big move she doesn't really seem fazed by anything all seasonally I thought was interesting actually in Hachioji Jaya and obviously haven't had the July she had as we moved through the Alps when she got to her Gog it just kind of felt like the the sheer volume of the climbing just defeated her a little bit yeah and maybe you saw the difference then between her and the yang years and akio's who who were used to dealing with that amount of climbing you look tired by the end yes definitely by the combined qualifier she looked tired and I was wondering - if part of it could have been the pressure because she did not compete into any bull during World Cups this year I wonder if they didn't she wasn't registered in any because they sort of didn't know how good she was and all of a sudden she came out just destroyed lead and her only two chances for qualifying for the Olympics then were hachioji and then after that could be winning the Asian Championships which is a tough goal it's very tough yeah so how do G was kind of her big chance yeah and I wonder if she was feeling any of that no well she said that's every society reminiscent of Jane Kim where you kind of find yourself watching her and going oh oh she's find it hard alright yeah I mean she's absolutely passed it up to here and she's moving a really good pace she hasn't really paused no that's alright for her why would she paused I don't pause walking down the street and she seems to be finding it about as difficult so yep so far keeping on going three minutes left she's already right near the top I mean I think we're gonna have to keep a very close eye on the time here yeah Mia most certainly will be in the tunnel right underneath us ready to enter the venue so putting our shoes on right now sure now got the penultimate quick draw clipped you love that word I do it's already four syllable word she can have a static well she jump I think just static again yet the heel hook in place could be about to see a top here keep an eye on the time because it could be crucial if young yeah if she was to top the route and then yeah knee was to top the route the time would be absolutely crucial it would decide who wins a competition here in Shearman it might keep alive the overall race for 2019 goes it with the left hand it looks like she only just stuck it didn't hit the gym on it and gets the clip done with 147 I think left on the clock shown 146 somewhere around there yeah Nygaard Bret if she wants to win this he's gonna have to climb very very quickly indeed have you ever seen a climber lower down having taught to find a route looking quite as nonplussed as that no I don't think so I mean Maddy's she knows she knows it was far too easy that's not it yeah yeah it's not a climber that looks like she's had a huge challenge remember of course sir if she wins tonight that's she's sewing up the overall title right yeah Nia can keep it alive for another week with a win here would actually it would require and to have a complete disaster innings I am yeah Nia to win but it would mathematically still be alive there's a lot riding on this I've just shifted to the edge of my seat I suspect a few people in the venue have done the same World Cup win on the line here but yeah Nia Garrett has got to get up there in about four minutes and ten seconds we think so three tops on the men's side three in the women so far might end up with a fourth sadly the roots just haven't really worked out tonight to be perfectly honest we give out the same number of points regardless yeah work a twin so 100 points still hundred points still a win yeah and you're looking to add another one to her considerable tally one of the few records she doesn't hold is most World Cup wins of all time and that's only because she's just 18 or something right yes 24th oldest climber in this final so her natural style is quick Yannick quit committing if in doubt go for it and she'll need every bit of that here so I don't doubt that she can top it in less than 4 minutes in 10 seconds I yeah it's really hard to get a grasp on how quickly she's going until she gets kind of halfway she's only been 30 seconds and she's already at moved 10 yes that's not bad it's so powerful as well through these moves yeah it just doesn't look in doubt does it absolute silence here in shear man it's really quite eerie even teams lavinia quiet and you one minute elapsed he is climbing really really quickly getting close to halfway now we might remember in Vela she dropped her short back oh yeah and then still top the semi-final route you kind of when she's racing the clock like this on the route that you'd imagine unless she makes any major errors you should fairly straightforward maybe it's barely worth chalking up just save the time yeah well obviously your hands don't get that sweaty she would manage to top the semi-final route with the extraordinary if I remember right that was quite a bottleneck e route as well yeah yes miss Vela seem to remember you being right yeah interesting foot choice what sir young is plan here there we go it's going sorted out okay so remember 146 47 is not official it's only what we spotted here yeah was the time that chair had left when she topped the route I think yeah Nia is actually going quicker than chiyan memory serves me right from about the same but see you definitely rested you might remember as well from 2018 world champs Jessie one on time and it yes in the end you're kind of messed about on the last move yes spend a load of time so heartbreaking I don't think the Austria crap oh good night in in screwed yes early take quite managed to bring it home she's definitely gonna have time here that's for sure yes she's got over a minute still yeah near there is the top beckoning she hasn't looked published she hasn't looked really troubled by anything absolutely crushed in the route let's be honest doing everything precisely she's got a minute to use up should she want it she said she honestly the top and misses it and yeah and you chose to go for the dynamic method needed the static method and that means that she wins that means that Jen wins the season that's pretty exciting for saying tune oh yeah absolutely furious at i stuff I have to say she should be furious at herself she hasn't seen what we've seen yeah I think she knew it could be done statically I'm just launched but I think so so often the last moves of REITs are big jumps showy jumps and that's probably what caught in her head so this grant as well all three other routes have been a jump to the finish halt or no not the semi final sorry but both qualifiers and finals but what's been amazing is yes there's no question the roots have been a bit too easy tonight but on both the men's and the women's the last climb has come out jump to the top to win the competition and bend it so let's have another look I mean Heartbreakers are you you could see a frustration as soon as she let go she knew she'd fluff that yeah and I think if she comes back to and watches the live stream and sees the relative ease with which people did that move she could be a little bit frustrated so dramatic ending she's pretty frustrated right now I think she could be yeah now we see it Yandy Gummer it misses the podium how often do we say that so it's three tops in the men's get needed top to get on the podium three tops in the women's needed to top to get on the podium its chancellor keon Iguchi and jake in two medals for South Korea not a bad haul and another one for Japan yeah Nia gone missing how she ends up in fourth place that sook Italians at fifth Lutz Kaka in six you Tong Jiang in seventh Kenny a cosmic over eight and I Maury down there in nine through with that move lowdown Jane Kim led the way for a while yes I was thinking Yaya gives us so often yeah yeah [Music] so winner of four out of five World Cups so far this season winner of the season title chance it seems she just came from nowhere her breakout season a breakout she's turning 16 this year her rookie year as they would call it over in North America and she is won again here in Shearman fourth and five it is absolutely incredible she was second in the other one she never finished in a World Cup load and second we've spent the last three or four years being blown away by yon yagam Brett we still are but we've now got chayim can she do it next season yeah it's actually exciting to see yes yeah at times it felt like there is less exciting just to watch I mean yeah is amazing but just to watch her blow the field away sometimes not as well let's get down to Eddie and the chair me down the front of the wall let's see what she owns got to say shann so you've done it again how does it feel in a debut season to have won again and again and again I want to [Music] congratulations we're coming up to the offseason you're not doing to loose will you be doing the Asian combined competition for the Continentals early next year yes maybe I can join there excellent and will you be on rock performing or just training oh maybe I will go to Tirana Spain to LA rambla so yes that's my thing excellent well good luck hopefully see you there congratulations again good question Eddie I like how it was I'm going to duel around black night I'm going to trial around la I know I like it I was a good question from Eddie when she said I'm off to see her at the trial around when we both looked at each other one good bit of juicy gossip stuff and we'll get the results up for you one more time of course we will be bringing you the podiums as well there you can see it needed a podium and needed a top to be on the podium in the women chance took the top and took the gold medal for the fourth time in five World Cups Akhil Iguchi I'm Jane Kim join it on the podium Kia sixty first World Cup medal too bad Jane Kim can't be too far behind diver and Janna Gamera ends up fourth netsuke Tammy and then the looked Karaka and that is all from us in sheer moon as I say to steer this we will be a live stream of the podium of us all from Alana and I you next weekend we've got qualifiers in insight on Saturday semies and finals live on Sunday thank you for joining us [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Laughter] [Music] [Music] [Music] I was about to debate how great that is [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] Oh [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] to me [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] or a party [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music]

Channel: International Federation of Sport Climbing

Views: 194,252

Rating: 4.8300886 out of 5

Keywords: sport, climbing, ifsc, 2019, live, replay, streaming, rock, #ifsc, world, lead, men, women, competition, finals, speed, xiamen, china, gold medal

Id: 5Nq27Cv1tfI

Length: 166min 48sec (10008 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 20 2019

Reddit Comments

[u/ajaxanon]

Not the best route setting :/

[u/lakerfan91]

The route setting was really disappointing all weekend. Hopefully they get it together for Toulouse

[u/muenchener]

Adam Ondra now second in the world cup combined ranking, which I assume means his place in Toulouse is secure.

[u/20883]

Didn’t Tomoa reach the top faster? Why did Ondra win?