I DESTROYED My Favourite Warhammer Model

I destroyed an iconic time to use on the base of the diorama for my warhound Titan the best part is that it cost less than two dollars because I 3D printed it on the brand new anchor mix m5c that's right you and anchor Mick loved the last project so much I'm back for seconds and it's time to make this warhound have an Epic Base that it deserves if you don't know already I'm currently 3D printed an entire Titan Legion and while I'm waiting for the warlord Titan to print I'm 3D printed parts of an insane diorama that will have all of them combined speaking of the warlord Titan later on in the video I have a huge update to give in my last video I 3D printed a tar for my River diorama using the m5c and if you watch that video you know how much I like this 3D printer it just works and it works well but since then I've actually discovered a few more things with our translator I done some high quality sketches and I think I like the idea of a rack tank so I searched on the friendly purple site for rec tank stls and that didn't really come up with anything so I tried to just search for tanks and see what would come up I Doom scrolled through the pages on calls and a few things did jump out but it was just missing something then I remembered a tank that I found for a challenge where I could only use three files and I think it would be perfect there are many scopes of this very famous tank but this one is free and readily accessible I loaded the hull and Capilla into 3D Builder to merge them together to make it easier and to take advantage of using an fdm printer to print tanks and with anchor Mix One Click slicing I don't even have to think about orientation and supports and printably because it's done it all for me I do have a question for those that are watching that are more knowledgeable on fdm printing is this the best way to 3D print a tank or do you pre-board the Side Tracks on as well let me know in the comments below but the handy thing that I found with this printer is regardless if I'm on my phone or computer I can just send the file to the printer and it automatically prints and I can just use my phone to check on the progress throughout the print if I'm not at home I really do think that this printer is perfect for beginners to fdm printing like me when I printed the terrain for the last diorama there wasn't much cleanup needed but that might be different for a tank model and I suspect it's going to be the tracks and the supports that will give me a bit of baller my first war Hunt is on a boring wooden Circle that I find in a hobby store here in the UK but I don't want these Titans to have boring bases because this is going to be one of the most epic projects ever done on YouTube and they deserve better I said before how it's been very hard for me to get XPS foam for a reasonable price but I finally managed to get some large long shakes that didn't cost me a fortune so I traced the A4 size that I used for the river and cut it out I carved into the new Beast with a knife and my hot wire cutters until I made something that has the shape of a ordinance Battlefield with Critters I carved it roughly where I want this tank to be and I think having it cut in half either side of the Creator will be the most impactful I then sealed it all with this mix of mod podge paint plaster of Paris and water I cut the tank in half with a hacksaw and then used my rotary tool with the little sanding attachment to make it look like it was actually blown up and not cleanly cut in half we emphasized that this tank has been blown in half after base coating and stencil highlighting everything I purposely didn't xenophobe wear the brick in the tank was I don't know it just made sense to me at that time but I painted the tank in classic Smurf colors I used some black speed paint to go around the outside of the exploded area for the metallic Parts I use gun metal gray and just kept the color scheme really basic not to draw too much attention away from the Titan I ever Stones the Browns and flesh tones to the ground to get a really muddy neutral look I really like this printer I started in my previous video and after using it more I've realized just how good it is I've been 3D printing the last couple of things at 0.1 millimeter layer height which is pretty close to resin by the way using the normal setting on the slicer and I started printing the skeleton to the wall or tighten with it as well because it's going to be a lot faster with this high speed printer and it should be stronger I 3D printed loads of the parts so far but I also printed some of the Torso using the Precision satin on the slicer which moves the surface layer while still maintaining that high speed the Apple slicer are grip everything just works straight from the box the programs are really straightforward I've just been using their Easy Settings and letting the printer do all the work for me I haven't done any caliber into it and I've seen mixed reviews on if you even need to do so so if you think that it's necessary what do you use to calibrate let me know in the comments below it has 49 Points Auto leveling which I haven't had to do since its first print and I've used this a lot it also has a feature that if your power goes out it will just resume from where it left off and luckily it hasn't happened to me yet but it's a good peace of mind to know that it will continue on while recording this video I can make actually send me out some of their own pla plus development which also includes some glitter filament that has its own option on the slicer but more importantly a 10 pack of 0.2 millimeter nozzles which unlocks a new level of detail in the slicer by selecting 0.2 millimeter and precision mode I can select .05 millimeter which correct me if I'm wrong but isn't that what resin printer's default print at I'm going to print a new Rhino art and compare to a res one that I printed in the past changing the nozzle was straightforward after watching a few videos I preheated the nozzle to 180 degrees and use the handy little toolkit to remove the old nozzle before installing the new one which by the way if you do this be careful not to burn yourself on the old nozzle when removing it although it's printing with a lower layer height and given more detail it still is printed at high speed I would met it in my ignorance I never thought fdm printers could get this good of a detail and even when comparing side by side with a resin print the only difference that I can see is just the smoothness which I've been told some filler primer and or light sanding would smooth this out completely unfortunately my local Halfords didn't have any flower primer but I'll try and post an update when I get my hands on some I can say you will be seeing more of this printer in the future for me with the projects I have coming up and I can honestly say my experience with this printer has been overwhelmingly positive and I'll leave a link to where you can get this printed Down Below in the description and it's 400 at the time of recording but while you're checking on it you should watch this video next because I 3D printed a awesome diorama for the river Titan using this printer and I had so much fun with it as always I want to give a huge thanks to my patreons and members without you none of this is possible and I'll see you all in the Discord

Channel: Battle Brother Sam

Views: 9,720

Keywords: #ankermake, #ankermakem5c, #3Dprinting

Id: NSRifrKHl6I

Length: 8min 32sec (512 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 26 2023