I 3D Printed A MASSIVE Warboss For The Most Epic WAAAGH

I want to do an orc Army this year so far I've printed off a centerpiece and I have a really big challenge project in mind for later on but before I print that I need something to lead the boys into the grit and mighty wow I want my Orcs to be slightly different from the rest after speaking to a patreon who does a lot of Kit fashion I want to dip my toes in and see what I can muster up for the biggest and baddest boy I'm going to use my uniformation gk2 for this print with some frozen Aqua gray itk resin because it's the best resin I've used so far for getting details on minis this boy is really big like a war boss should be I really like the sculpt already and it's prese supported which is perfect because I like to use pre-support models whenever I can on the channel but how can I make it mine well my Orcs are going to be chaos tinted I'm not sure how lore accurate that is but quite frankly I don't care I like chaos and I like Orcs so I'm going to masch the two together my plan is to use Microsoft 3D Builder which is a free program on Windows PCS sorry Mac users I don't have any experience with your ecosystem but I think it's possible to load it some way but I'm going to use the emboss feature to carve a chaos symbol into the skull of the orc like I said I just want to dip my toes in the digital kashion and customize them for now but this is a great use of 3D printing because it's easy to do and easy to replicate I downloaded the chaos symbol from Google images and tried to emboss it on but it was including the frame of the picture which obviously isn't what I wanted I found out for embossing pictures in 3D Builder you want the background of the image to be black and the symbol in this case to be white so I loaded up Photoshop and used the object selection tool to select only the chaos symbol before painting it wiped embossing might not be the word I'm looking for to describe this process I suppose debossing is what I want to do because when you select oss the symbol is raised and it looks cool but I want it to look like it was carved into the skull so I slid the slide until it looked like it was engraved in I honestly don't know if this is going to be deep enough and if I worked smarter I could just do it on a separate head as a test print but I like to just go for it I do wish I had thought of this when doing the orcus bomber because that would have been cool to add some details too I might have to revisit that with some freehand symbols later on like I said earlier I'm using Frozen's AK Aqua gray resin because I think personally it is the best best resin for getting details on minis you can also tell it's a higher quality resin because this has been sitting in my fat for about a week now completely untouched and there is no noticeable separation even though there is no separation I still make it a habit to stir the resin in the fat with a silicon spatula because that way I can feel if there is any debris or cured resin on the fap sheet before I start printing this one is from Ikea but I'll leave a link to ones from Amazon in case your Ikea is far away just remember don't put it back in your kitchen drawer or you're going to have a bad time one issue I ran into which is minor but annoyed me at the time was that it took a really long time for the gk2 to read the file the machine takes the file from the USB stick and writes it to its own internal memory and for some reason on this plate it just is taking forever after pressing print all there is to do is wait and see if it works but I won't make you wait the same amount of time as me because it did work with the exception of me running out of resin somehow it isn't all bad news though because it's only the actual body that failed so I only have to print that out again and during this time I realized after speaking with a che 2 Tech in the Discord that this printer has been Overexposed this whole time so he recommended me to print off some ch3d tech boxes of calibration to get the printer really tuned in I've covered this before in the past couple of videos but this exposure test both takes into your current exposure time to be able to fit the boxes inside of each other and at the same time test the smallest support that you can print which can be fine-tuned with light off delay and lowering lift speed the settings I ended up on for this machine is now 1.1 seconds exposure at 03 mm layer height with a 40 mm lift speed which is slow but one tip I will give you is to have your printer go slower because that will increase your chances of success but that's not only my experience in fact many others in the Discord have said the same thing including people who 3D print a lot in order to sell physical models in their stores by the way if you want to join possibly the best Discord in the universe then consider becoming a patreon or a YouTube member I used the field body to do a fat clean on the machine and it's funny when looking back at the footage it's slowly move from the corner more into the middle of the machine with the updated settings I reprinted the same body and this time it was a great success one big problem I ran into with the previous plate was getting the supports off because it was Overexposed but these were a lot easier to remove although some areas were still a little hard it also looks like the engraving wasn't as deep as I thought it would be but hopefully it's deep enough for the oil paints to pull into later I washed my models in meated spirits for around 5 minutes but like I've covered before I have some semic cured resin Gunk floating around in there and I really should empty it out to clean it and refill it back up with clean experts but I just haven't got around to it yet I also cure my models for the same amount of time in my curing machine much like a previous video I probably should have reprinted the model entirely with the calibrated settings because I had a bit of cleanup to do with removing the support knobs of the model but after the parts were cleaned up it all went together quite easily with Gorilla super glue chel the bullet chain going between the gun and the backpack was a little tricky to get set but I sprinkled some bakon powder onto it to activate the glue my Orcs are Goofs at heart so I primed the model with fjo black primer and then use white ink through the airbrush to pick out some of the details like the face exposed flesh and the lever straps and flames on top of the backpack I sprayed some peach pink ink onto the skull and horns on the backpack to see how the contrast paint will react later compared to the smaller bones and tapee on the rest of the model I brushed on some plague virus flash contrast paint to the skin to get a good base layer down to work on later I then use fjo model air gray blue to pick out the highlights on the armor in different places and also on the metal pieces on the front of the face guard I use some B red contrast paint on the tabard hanging down and also on a few different areas like the face guard and tops of the missiles now is the time to find out how the different undercoat works for the pallet bone speed paint I brushed it onto the scull and horn on the backpack and also onto the bones hanging down from his loin cloth I also put it on the bits of his socks that are hanging out and his orcy Purity seals on the shoulder as a base coat I painted on some gagak sewer onto the lever straps around the model that is holding his backpack onto him before moving on to the metals of the model for Metals I just like to try brush it on as much as I can I use fjo steel color because it's a dark metal and means I can highlight it later with a lighter metal like silver if anyone has a way that they prefer to do it please let me know in the comments down below and I'll try your way next time I go to do metals for some harder the reach areas I brushed it on normally for the different colored metal bits like the bullets and the exhaust I use fjo copper I done a mixture of brushing normally and try brushing for this as well for the Flames I could have airbrushed it on but I wanted to try wet blending some contrast pains so I started with yellow at the bottom and red about 3/4 of the way up leaving the tips black using two brushes I tried to quickly put on the colors and blend them before try it in and I think it came out quite well it's time to whip out the secret weapon of oil washes and I tried to mix together similar colors with a smidge and a black to add some quick contrast I end this right down with some white Spirit but for the metal parts and other bits that I don't really have a similar color for I just use my black brown wash in a Char that I've had for a long time I let the model try overnight before wiping away any excess paint with a makeup sponge soaked lightly in white Spirits once that's done it's time to highlight the model and from my limited research I think Edge highlighting is really my only option for the armor so I use some of the gray blue from earlier mixed with some ice yellow to add some highlights to highlight the orc flesh I used some plague Bears flesh contrast mixed with goblin Green and diluted it down to add in some volumetric highlights listen to me acting like I know what I'm talking about the red Parts on the model were just highlighted with some fjo Scarlet trying to just catch the highest areas to finish highlighting the model I used some IC Yellow by itself sparingly to the highest points and I think that's the model [Music] done what do you think of this being the leader to this year's green tide Army project it's bloody huge like I said before but I always thought orc should be bigger but now the question is how many Orcs equals a green tide one ah let me know in the comments down below how many I should print off now we have the leader you should watch this video next because I printed off the true centerpiece to the orc project and it's even bigger as always I want to give a huge thanks to all my patreons and YouTube members without your support every month I wouldn't be able to do this

Channel: Battle Brother Sam

Views: 4,584

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Id: 8Z9VaKz3D4I

Length: 11min 20sec (680 seconds)

Published: Thu Apr 18 2024