I 3D Printed the Coolest 40k Model Ever!

I want to print a huge epic model for my next big project that I'll be doing this year and what a centerpiece model for the new Army this will be I'm using my frozen Sonic Mega AKs which Frozen kindly sent me and they also happen to be the sponsor of this video I mean how chaotically cool is it having Orcs that have tamed a flying bug and then strapped on a load of metal parts to it this is just completely epic when I'm looking at things to print for the channel the rule of cold plays a big part because if I'm not excited about it then how are you going to be this is also the perfect model to test out my new enclosure for the Mega AKs in my shed manufactorum just to see if it's capable of printing out such a huge Beast so with the enclosure up to its Target temperature of 25° C or 77 Freedom Units I run some exposure tests to get my Mega 8ks dialed in I'm using Frozen's Aqua gray 8K resin and the handy thing about Frozen printers and using their resin is that on their website they have a page for each printer with base settings for you to work from and their website had an exposure range of 1.5 to 2 seconds which after running one cones of calibration I worked out that my exposure should be perfect at 1.4 seconds so now it's time to load up the files in my my slicer and print now what I'm going to say might make everything I've just said redundant but I wanted to include this part in the video because I have since realized that I had Overexposed my printer which Alo n I've sorted it being Overexposed might cause some problems later on with building the model but I'll tell you how I properly calibrated it and what settings I ended up on later but before we get into it here's some details of the this week sponsor Frozen and their sonic Mega AK it has a 15in b plate which is just absolutely huge when you compared to a normal size printer the 8K screen has 43 micrometer resolution so it's great for Warhammer models especially ones this big it has a bothin trip hanger which means that there's less mess and more importantly less resin waste although I've modified my lid for the enclosure it comes with an attached lid that lifts up which really helps with space it also has the handy option of a auto fillm pump that's sold separately and unfortunately with the layout of my enclosure I couldn't include it in but I will if I upgrade the manufactorum click the link in the description below to find out more and once again thank you Frozen for sponsoring this part of the video so what I'm going to show you next might be a little strange after telling you all the pros of the mega AKs but while taking the print off and using the button hanger to let the excess resin trip back into the fat I noticed something weird with one of the Wings it has a bit of battle damage in the form of a huge slice through it it definitely hasn't been modeled like this because the supports are missing around the same section it's almost like an invisible Cube has been there it's definitely not the printer's fault I want to make that absolutely clear but I'm not sure if this is a corrupt slice or file Lei has a great feature both in that picks up if a model needs repaired so the only thing I can think of is the file got corrupted somehow during slicing or transferring to the USB stick I also found out that parts of the print had failed and at the time I admittedly blamed the pre supports however that's not the case but having any failures on the machine this big can be a tad annoying because the fat clean is huge one big tip for when you have to do a fat clean especially on a machine this big is to keep some supports laying around because you can put them in the corner of the fat before running the clean to make it easier to peel off so at this point I started to question what on Earth was happening and that's when I got speaking to patreon in the private Discord which you can join by becoming a patreon or YouTube member and joined possibly the best Discord in the universe and he put me on the tor torturous puff of ch3d TAC calibration test the j3d TAC calibration test dials in your printer first of all with the exposure setting to be able to fit these boxes into each other and at the same time test how thin the supports can be for your printer with a combination of the light off delay and left speed I used Frozen settings as a starting point for the left speed but as I was printing off more tests and comparing the results I started to look into the Google Document J 3D tech provides which is a great step-by-step guide for 3D printing and getting your printer ready because the first few supports were feeling I ended up increasing my light off delay and lowering my lift and retract speeds which will make every print take longer but the positives to that is that the enclosure will stay warmer for longer and the chances of success will go up because I'm not having to deal with as hard of a suction Force as before here are a sence I ended up on by us using 0.05 mm layer height I wanted to include this in now so that you can run the same test and see if your printer is optimized so you don't have to go through my experiences now that you're all caught up on future events that have happened back to the orc bom that I printed I washed the models in the mega wash station again from Frozen to have a better look at what happened with the supports and it does look like a weird glitch which confirms it was the file itself but but I also managed to lose some of the little heads to the Orcs rookie mistake Sam because I should have used my t- streiner that I think is a secret tool not too many know about for washing smaller parts it's really handy having one of these so learn from my mistakes so you don't have to try and fish out a tiny part from the toxic gunk in your IPA I've mentioned this in another video but there is some weird resin Gunk floating around in my wash station because when I was moving it out to the shed I forgot about U rays and then being able to penetrate clouds on an overcast day I tried to clean off as much as I could before I started curing the parts in my curing station this is such a large model that I had to spread it over a couple of plates for curing at 5 minutes at a time so this is around the time the overexposure is going to bite me in the ass because it's time to build the model and because it's Overexposed I had more difficulty than usual trying to get all the pieces to fit together usually I fully build my models before painting but I had some problems when trying to paint a compax model recently so for this model I want to try and make things as easy as possible to paint by not building it completely before painting there was a lot of cleanup needed from the stubs of the supports left on the model from it being Overexposed but I ran into a major problem so remember earlier I said the wing was missing supports but seemed to print out okay well when I was Tri fitting the parts together I realized that the Wing part that fits to the body is missing quite a large piece of it so now I'm going to have to reprint it but I thought this is a good opportunity to compare the difference between an Overexposed versus calibrated perfectly print so I printed off the faux wi along with the cage for the Gunner because it originally printed off with a lot of failur as you can see the calibrated Wing fits together a lot easier than the Overexposed luckily I haven't lost much detail on the Overexposed Parts because I was worried I'd have to print this out again and to be honest I probably should and just pretend that I'm someone that knows everything about printing but that's just not the truth I'm still learning with every print and printer I get and I know I will still keep learning and that's what makes this side of the hobby fun for me one big tip is if you are scrapping supports off or cleaning up the model and it's making dust is to wear a mask and also Hoover up any of the leftover dust because resin dust is very bad for your lungs I'm going to have to use milliput to fill in a lot of the gaps in this model which I don't really mind because I need to improve my milliput skills more I rolled up the two pieces the gall and needed them until it was all one color and then started filling in the gaps I then dipped my toes into some isopropyl alcohol to smooth the milliput filling all out I also printed off some bases in a previous video and these are from acceler factories 2.0 scrap bases which have these weird looking supports but I can guarantee for me at least they work great I went into more depth in the previous video which you can watch here I primed the model with fjo black because there's so much metal on the shall we call it modified flying bug I then sprayed white ink onto the flash parts of the bug like the belly wings and the Orcs themselves to speed up the process later on with contrast paint for the bug skin I wanted to do something different from my other bugs I painted previously so I'm going to paint this in a pinkish tinge using Machan ink and hopefully it will come out well the belly of the bug will be a lighter almost skin like color so I sprayed on some skin tone using peach pink ink mainly focusing on the most middle part of the bottom of the bug I also sprayed a bit of this peach pink on the teeth in the mouth as an experiment to see if it works better as a base for later on I also done the same recipe with the wings and tried experimenting with doing lines with the flesh tone and picking out the bones in the wings with it but I didn't really like it when it was done so I sprayed in the flash tone more into the center of each segment of the wing and then went over the bone Parts with machanda it is a lot brighter than the body of the bug which I don't like but I can hopefully darken it down later this is going to be quite a fast model to paint using the tri brush technique for the metal I used fjo steel as it's a nice dark metal color and gives me room to highlight later on with a lighter metal color like silver I then used plague Bear's flesh contrast paint on the Orcs and goblins to give a base layer to work on later now these Orcs are obviously scaled Pilots because they believe they are and they have got all the right gear so I used garak sir contrast paint for the jackets and aprons I then used Gore grunt's fur contrast for the fur Parts on the Pilot's jacket as a base coat to build on later my Orcs are golfs and they like their black but these are also working boys that like their chain so I painted the trousers with asman blue contrast paint there's a lot of different details on this model from the smallest Goblin to the big bug itself and after picking out all the metal spanners and cuffs with fjo steel it's all starting to come together and in all honesty if I wanted this to be tabletop ready I could just stop here but Orcs are full of color so I used yellow red and blue contrast paint on some of the metal pieces that look like they are placed there by the orc I tried to make it look like it was placed haphazardly like an orc W I also use the red on the different missiles that are strapped onto the bug at this point I thought it was all looking too much like one color so I picked out a few different areas to paint with fjo copper just to add some more things to look at but now it's time to use the secret weapon of oil paints I mixed together similar colors to the different parts with a smid of black just to bump up the contrast as much as possible the best thing to do with oil washes like this is to just let them try because I've diluted these quite a bit with Spirits they should be okay after leaving them overnight so I can come back in the morning and start putting in the details after wiping away the excess oils from the fit that I don't want them to be I mixed together some of the plig be contrast and goblin Green for the highlights on the Orcs the wings on the bug have these amazing details already on them so to highlight them I used some skin tone similar to the ink mixed with a bit of ice yellow and diluted it down a bit more than usual and just tried to catch all the raised areas this took a few goes over but it should come out really nice in the end I then used some diluted down warlord purple and re handed in some fins to the wings I used different yellows and reds similar to the contrast pains for the metals from earlier and picked out all of the raised areas to show that it's not brand new metal strapped on the bug I TR brushed and dabbed on highlights of fjo silver and ROM areas to show a bit of battle damage this is a huge model and it's definitely a worthy centerpiece to an orc Army however I'm not entirely sure what you could use it as on the battlefield but it's just so cool and stood out to me but if you thought that was cool you should watch this video next because I printed off the Supreme Commander to one of my new Army projects the TR and it's amazing thanks to Frozen again for sponsoring the video and the link will be in the description for the Mega AKs and a huge thanks to all of my patreons and channel members because without your support none of this is possible and I'll see you all in the Discord

Channel: Battle Brother Sam

Views: 6,331

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Id: efMEBAhGQb0

Length: 14min 55sec (895 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 06 2024