GW Stopped Making These Models FOR A REASON

what's up poppy friends my name is Casey and welcome to another miniature rescue this week we are going to try and rescue a very cool but extremely messed up lamenters dreadn for Warhammer horse [Music] heresy this video has been sponsored by uniformation but more on that in a little bit there are many times when I'm looking through eBay for deals being able to pick up an Army on the cheap and getting to fix it up and back on the table is a very unique and special process sometimes though I come across a model that doesn't really fit into that criteria and there's just something about it that makes me want to just buy it and try and fix it up a while back probably 6 months or so I happened across a contemptor dread knot for horse heresy one of the resin ones before the plastic kits and while I ended up paying almost MSRP for it in this condition I knew that it had some potential to be a fantastic model to save the paint job on the model is pretty imaginative the person who had this previously clearly wanted to do something special with this model and Lor's freehand is tough the first thing I noticed was the lamenters chapter markings probably one of the hardest to get right when doing freehand the checkers are one thing but adding a perfect circle then the heart and the blood drop right in the middle is definitely a hard thing to get just right of course there are decals but honestly they're usually more of a hassle than they're worth at least in my experience the other major part of the model is all of the weathering there are a bunch of scratches in the paint and streaks across the entire model almost so much that it's covering up a majority of the actual color my guess is that this was not fully the intent going in though I feel like the weathering was an effort to cover up some of the modeling issues that I'm seeing there a lot of broken things on this model the joints in particular are very gummed up with Superglue probably because this is a resin model that came up like I said before the new plastic kits and if you've never worked with that material it can be pretty frustrating resin doesn't always like to stick together there is mold release on the parts which needs to be clean before putting anything together or painting and a lot of times especially with GW resin the parts don't quite fit together like they're supposed to so the contact surface isn't enough to get a good Bond and you end up overloading things with Superglue until it just sticks so my theory is that this was probably a situation like that and the model ended up with a lot of unclean lines that eventually got covered up with that weathering which makes sense using paint to your advantage in these cases can give you a good result for a gaming piece and nobody will really be the wiser for any of those weird mistakes I use weathering to cover up all sorts of issues with used models all the time and it works really well but I have a feeling and because it ended up being on eBay and then on my desk that the original owner would have preferred it to probably just be a cleaner model still I want to replicate this paint job as intended and try and clean up some of the damage that the model has so let's get this awesome model into the Sonic Cleaner filled with LA's totally awesome and get to work but before that that let me tell you about today's excellent sponsor I've been using the uniformation gk2 for almost 6 months now and they asked me to give a little update on how things have been going I'm just going to cut to the chase this is by far the best printer that I own and it comes down to a couple of things for one this printer is actually still functioning like I bought it yesterday I haven't had to do anything to keep this printer running and I can't really say that about any the other printers that I actually own not that changing out FP sheets or cleaning up the occasional spill is a bad thing it's a pretty normal part of printing but I haven't really had to do that at all not even once on this machine and that kind of says a lot about how well it was actually made every video that I've made that features any kind of printing in the last 6 months has been done on this printer I've just put more resin in it and hit go and it worked out probably 85% of the time the other times where it didn't work was because of something that I did either in the slicer doing supports whatever it was I just didn't put things in the right spot and that's a pretty good place to be in when you just want to get something printed out I know that the machine is doing its job and that the only reason that I'm going to see it fail is if I am doing something wrong as far as the 3D printing hobby goes I'm not sure there's a much better ask for any printer than that if I want to print a model to just paint I can just do that and pretty much know that it's going to work so there's a much smaller barrier to getting something I need for a project where I would normally have to plan a lot more around that the only downside to the entire thing is that the price is still pretty high but as far as quality of life and reliability there really is nothing that can compare to this printer or even surpass the gk2 right now if you are interested in picking up the gk2 check out the affiliate Link in the description or pin comment below and use the code Casey to save $80 on your order thank you again uniformation for sponsoring this video now let's get back to that contempor [Music] [Music] dreadn I gave the model a bath and Sonic cleaner for about 20 minutes to start hoping that it would be enough to remove a majority of the paint and loosen up some of the joints so that we could get into some of the tighter spaces and clean them up the paint came off pretty quickly and I had a feeling it would as the paint mostly looks like contrast paint it's possible there wasn't even primer on this guy either I'm not getting the usual wher black flakes in the Sonic cleaner from that tougher primer the glue did break down as well so I was able to snap some of the pieces off without any issues and that will give me access to some of those inner details to clean up those are the really bad ones the more more I look at this model the more suspicious I am that it may be a recast model and I've dealt with quite a lot of GW resin and I don't know that I've seen worse than this but I could be wrong anyways I completely understand beyond the glue overspill why this was weathered the way it was so it might just be the direction we need to take anyways if I can't fix this damage of course I won't completely know until the paint starts to go down each joint is full of glue so I use some superglue deboner to loosen it up and scrape it out I was also able to take apart the backpack and shoulders fully in order to get into those joints and clean them up enough to let the parts fit together a little more naturally there were also quite a few mold lines on the larger panels of armor so I used a hobby knife to cut them down as much as I was comfortable with and then got them flat with the sanding stick each piece of this model had something to work on the original owner did quite a bit of work up front but I've been in that same place where it seems never ending and you just want to get paint on the model probably had a game that weekend or something every time I'm there I have to take a step back pick a good album to throw on and just sit down and do the work there really isn't any way around it because if you don't clean as much as you can you'll just see it in the final paint job and probably regret not doing it to begin with it happens but hopefully you can find something to occupy the time while you get through the slog of removing flashing and M lines I think overall I spent about 3 hours cleaning this model and there are still areas where where the resin looks pretty bad some of the straight lines of the armor panels are just soft and there are definitely some details that have been lost in some cases just cut away entirely or just super small details that have glue in them that just won't come out I won't know the full story until this gets primed up though so let's get this thing back together and back on the [Music] base the prime mini ended up looking pretty good overall it's still not perfect but most of the issues have been taken care of and with some paint on the model it should look pretty great on the table certainly not going to win any awards but it's it's doable since I am shooting for the same paint job that the original owner intended let's start with a white sketching layer that will set up for the yellow normally I would use white over the top and get that traditional zenithal highlight going but because there are so many armor panels I want to modulate the light a little bit to give the model a more striking look this is probably the best examp example I've seen of what I'm talking about here you can see three different ways to highlight armor essentially the bottom example is zenil so one main Light Source on top of the whole thing which is great for most models but can make panels look a little bit flat the second is panel lighting which does work where each panel gets a light source in the middle it's nice for Knights and Titans because there's big surfaces and lots of smooth curves the last one and the one that I will be shooting for today will be panel modulation where the light is a gradient from back to front and has a hard Shadow underneath on the connecting panel this is great for large flat surfaces and really brings out each panel gives it a lot more depth to start I will be laying down the white and because I want this to be yellow I will be using a muted pink for the Shadows a transparent layer of yellow over the top will change that pink into a nice orange and the white will be a strong yellow [Music] even with just a little bit of sketching you can see how much these panels stand out even more with just the white but I need to add that pink where those dark gradients are so once those go down a little back and forth and I can make them as smooth as possible we can start to put that yellow over the top and see where things [Music] are the yellow immediately is bright which is kind of the entire point right over the white it just looks great coming right out of the bottle and the pink becomes that nice orangey Brown Shadow now that we have a base coat of color for the armor it's time to start filling out the rest of the model luckily there really isn't too much going on with this model most of the rest of the pieces are metallic robot parts so I came in with the dark silver to fill those areas out [Music] I decided to mix up a black oil wash to start a little bit of that weathering and bring out the details on the model some black oil paint with mineral spirits still pretty strong we'll go over everything [Music] I did let this dry for about an hour before coming back to it so that the oils was set up and I could play with some streaks down the panels I have basically come to the same conclusion that the previous owner did Even though this model is now way cleaner than it was before there is still a lot of physical damage to the actual model model so it kind of needs to be covered up a little bit using paint we can play into that narrative and try and make it all look purposeful something you just have to do with used models sometimes and part of the fun so I want to put in some oily streaks and eventually chip up the panels a little bit to help sell the Brokenness of [Music] it to start I want to Edge highlight a fair really thick line of bright yellow on the panels This does two things one I get to see and touch every edge of the model so I can make a plan for the chipping and two the thicker edge of yellow helps sell that modulation like non-metallic metal with white edges and it helps give all of the edges room to be chipped up thick line to start then a smaller line of brown and then finally silver to show the armor underneath the panel the first passive chipping will be with a piece of sponge and some dark brown paint the sponge keep things pretty random but I can also guide it along the edges to paint in that line just like regular Edge highlighting as long as you keep it light you can still get a nice result any of the yellow lines left over help keep the underside of the brown highlighted and make that Brown look recessed into the paint like it's been chipped away finally on the thickest parts of the chipping I like to put in some bright silver that really sells the effect of paint being scratched away from the armor and it gives it more depth the bright silver also gives me a chance to bring back some of the brightness and edges of the rest of the metallics so some dry brush over the guns and then little highlights here and there to just punch it up another part of that original paint job that I wanted to bring in was some of the rust there wasn't a ton but weathering down some orangey brown paint into the recesses of the metals will bring in just a little bit of that color and give it a slightly Rusty appearance it's very watered down so once it dries it's not going to show a ton but you can still see it well enough and I can't forget the base I used brown and black to go over the whole thing just to get rid of any of that yellow that oversprayed and I used Brown Brown and orange pigment powder to cover it all up that orange brown pigment just looks really good with yellow armor so I pretty much always default to it when painting any kind of lamenters or imperial fist minis or really anything that needs weathering at all just because it looks so good yellow is such a great color in paint when you have the tools to do it painting yellow with a brush is honestly just frustrating and I'm sure you've been in that position where it feels impossible we do have contrast paints and speed paints that help but even then it can look a little spotty and not cover up quite the way you want it to the best option in that case is to try and stick with one piece of the model at a time and get an even coat over the whole thing otherwise transparent yellow ink over white is by far the best way to get that done if you have an airbrush it's also dry brushing that that does work anyway so here's the thing I didn't get this model for a great price more because Games Workshop replaced it with a nicer plastic version and doesn't even sell this one anymore but it was still a great model to work on and I'm pretty happy to put it in the cabinet to you hopefully get integrated into an army at some point and honestly that's just more fun so thank you again for joining me on another miniature rescue if you like something about this video please consider hitting that like button sharing this video with your hobby friends and subscribing for more miniature rescues once again I'm Casey and I will see you in the next video and of course here is the completed lamenters contempor dreadn lamenters lamenters contempor dread R notot thanks again [Music] [Music] [Music] oh [Applause]

Channel: eBay Miniature Rescues

Views: 52,179

Keywords: Warhammer, Age of Sigmar, Warhammer40k, AOS, WHFB, Painting Miniatures, Ebay Rescue, ebay miniature rescue, emr, mini painting, airbrushing, 40k painting, Beginner mini painting, beginner warhammer, start painting, cheap airbrush, rescue mini, miniature, model, figure painting, restoration, miniature restoration, scale modeling, painting models, fixing models, horus heresy, contemptor dreadnought, dreadnaught, lamenters, warhammer 40k, painting yellow, resin model, forgeworld, finecast

Id: iTxonQsCm5M

Length: 16min 13sec (973 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 28 2024