HueForge End to End

[Music] foreign end truly end-to-end including the slicer tutorial here today so that you can have confidence in how to do qforge so first let me pull up an image just drag and drop it in all right and it's populated in here and you'll see that it's in a black and white that's black and white is a color set that's already loaded uh it's all pet G colors but let's use pla now I've been testing out this pla from a great brand called Excel so I'm going to use that today so start by replacing the black I just drag and drop it down now this Block's a little bit lighter than a normal black but otherwise it's great let's replace the white with their natural very high TD natural color also great now we want to change the middle colors now we could put in a yellow put in maybe a brown and see how well we can match the original image get pretty close oh that's not perfect it's not exactly the same it almost never will be let me show you why over here in the image format I'll show you the luminance this is the luminance map and this is what is being used for most of the modes to determine how high a particular part of the image is in the mesh so the taller it is the brighter it is here the taller it's going to be here so this is the you know a very tall section and you can see it's very white here now some colors will have the same luminance regardless of the fact that they're different colors so two colors will have the same luminance which is why sometimes you'll see some bleed over and I still think we can make a pretty good image this way we might add another color might adjust things a little bit let's put in a darker brown as well I have one here now here's one thing that's going to take your things to the next level I bring in a default of 0.08 because that's about as low as people are generally comfortable with printing but I personally use 0.04 and that's going to give you a lot more control over your blending and a lot more control over your layer Heights to get exactly the look you want so this looks pretty good but I don't want you to feel trapped in the starting colors or in the image colors one of the fun Parts about hueforge is to explore so I'm going to replace this dark brown here with a dark green um maybe even bring it up a layer bring the can I bring the black down you can bring the black down a little bit now I'm going to get that halo effect up there which I may or may not want so maybe I want no Halo and I'm going to bring it all the way up here this is kind of neat by itself just the black red or blue or sorry green brown yellow but let's try with a lightish blue in here oh that's kind of blown out so let's try a darker blue let's try this peacock glue notice I'm just dragging and dropping from the filament Library into the sliders that's how you populate the sliders let's see if I increase so it's a little bit of experimentation and then we get this kind of almost um mystical magic kind of look here which which fits in with the motif and so this is how I'm gonna choose to to print it so I'm going to go to file save project now you can export the STL but if you save the project all your settings for the previous from this attempt get saved as well so I prefer to save the project so I'm Gonna Save the project it's going to pop up an option I'm going to name it um uh spectral stag his head all right now it's going to name that project now let's go into our slicer I have bamboo Studio ready here we'll go to my directory where I saved and drag that STL in where is it there it is okay drag it in other big files and I put this one at point two so it's going to take a little while um actually let me show you a trick one thing that I've had problems with is that bamboo Studio sometimes hangs up on these Prints but I found a simple workaround is to come to your detail size here and go to 0.19 it does increase the mesh size just a little bit but not very much say project again and then we'll come back to Bamboo studio and we'll reload from disk okay now it's been reloaded with the slightly higher resolution mesh but for whatever reason this fixes problems in in bamboo Studio okay so I'm doing a 0.04 now here's a problem I have a layer height of 0.04 but my first layer height is set to 0.24 and if you look at my Hue Forge you'll see that it's actually set to 0.16 now there's two solutions I can change it in the slicer I can change it here I'm going to change it here and see what happens no real difference I think we're okay now this is going to be a really thin print it's 0.24 millimeters thick that's pretty thin so let's increase that to three two now you see it got brighter that's because I increased everything I increased the depth by 0.08 so I'm going to increase the max depth of 0.08 increase the slider to the top and then move everything up two sliders there's layer height is layer height is 0.04 so I'm gonna go up two sliders one two one two one two one two and you'll see that everything now has reverted and it basically looks exactly the same so we'll save it one more time just to be sure we have to save it we change the mesh over here so we have to save it so let's go back to the bamboo Studio reload from disk okay now we have our layer height set to zero four we have our first layer at height set to 0.24 we have I have Classic on Arachne can technically give you a better uh mesh in the end but I find that it slices faster with classic do have while Loops to one detect thin walls is on I have monotonic and rectilinear for my infill and 100 infill this is important you want full infill so that your blending works correctly and then I have turned off to Tech narrow solid infill I've turned off ensure vertical shell thickness this one setting can take a ton of extra slicing time and you don't need it for heel Forge Springs my speeds are standard I might reduce these a little bit maybe make that 200 make the top surface 150 at the smaller layer Heights this can definitely cause an issue I uncheck slow down for light overhangs again there's no overhangs in the heel forage mesh so don't put it in there support no supports no raft and this doesn't matter others I turn off the purge Tower if you want to use a purge Tower use a purge Tower if you want to use a draft Shield to make sure that your priming is always different do that some people don't like that you might have a little bit of the beginning of a layer isn't quite extruding until you get a little bit in so I'm going to slice it this is going to take a little bit of time I'll probably end up editing this out I have a very beefy processor and this still takes me quite a while to do while I'm waiting I'm going to bring up qforge again now it did save a I'm going to bring up describe it's saved it describe dot txt file with it's the name of the projects spectral stag head describe.txt can see it here these are the notes I'm going to use to fill my to do everything so you see it says start with black at layer 12 0.68 millimeters you swap to dark green a layer 13.72 millimeter if you start swamp to keep a peacock glue at layer 16 points eight four millimeter swap to yellow and at layer 22 1.08 millimeters you swap for the natural for the rest of the print so I can't have this on the same screen so I'm going to move it off but this is how I'm gonna the directions I'm gonna follow and I have taken into account that the sliders are a little bit different so this is at layer 12 you just want to start green don't swap at 13 don't swap at 11 swap at 12. okay and we're back that took quite a while to be honest even on a very very strong PC okay so now we're gonna go and follow the directions we want layer 12. so you see the slider here on the right I'm going to click around where I think 12 is on my face act there's 12. I'm going to right click on this change filament and I'm going to reload my AMS so well let's go ahead and do that now let's change this color to a dark green okay and then we have a peacock blue we have a yellow and we have a white that's correct when you do that change you do have to re-slice it but this slice goes a lot faster now if you do not have an AMS you can I'll show you how you can make this or you do not have two AMS units I'll show you how to do this okay so now I'm going to change this filament to dark green we have to slice it again and again you see we're starting at 80 here it doesn't take that long to slice from here now I do hope that at some point they'll let us do all these filament changes and then add a slice okay so 12 then the next change is at 13. so one layer of green of the dark green now I'm going to change that blue slice each time it should basically get faster and faster as you're higher up the stack the next one is at 16 that was just a guess but I got it and then at 22. now I'm going to show you how different this looks this is going to look very different from what Q4 has predicted and if it didn't there would be no reason for Hue Forge all right let's get the last one in there is that 108 layer 22 it's probably about here oh man I got it right on the first try that's white slice that plate all right just about done okay so this is what it looks like in the slicer now and let me show you in Hue Forge it looks like this right that looks totally different you can come up here this normal button and click it and it'll show you what the slicer will look like and that looks a whole lot more like the slicer now my colors aren't exactly the same but that looks a whole lot more like the slicer so it should look pretty much exactly like the slicer you can also hold down the mouse wheel click and hold down the mouse wheel and it'll do the same thing just briefly as long as the mouse wheel is held down all right so we've got this sliced and uh now all we have to do is print uh now my my printer is busy right now I can't do this but that's that's it that's end to end you hit print and um I'll I'll print this a little bit and I'll post the results up at the end of the video I forgot one more thing I promise to show you how to print this with a 4 AMS unit so coming to print plate and here we set these to their standard now as I said this hasn't been reloaded with my AMS unit but you can change this one to A1 so we have five colors defined and we just change this one to be to match as A1 now these are my old colors or my MSU and I'll change those before I print it but um one two three A4 and then back to A1 here now there's a trick you can do is you can once the print has started you can pull the filament just the filament out of the AMS unit that's in slot four your fourth slot and by doing that what will happen is you will um when it gets to that slot it'll pause and wait for you to refill that filament and when you refill that filament you can also replace this roll here with the correct white roll um and that way and you can go all the way out to seven colors pretty easily that way eight colors pretty easily that way but um obviously you'll have the same issue you'll have to put if you decide to go to eight colors you will have to um pull the filament and that's back in A3 again after it's all loaded and then replace A4 before it goes so anyway that's how you can do this with a for just a single AMS unit here's a quick bonus tip for you I was loading up my AMS unit uh my AMS I have two let me adjust this to show you I have two units on my printer but I have another printer still printing you might hear it a little bit in the video and unfortunately the white that I need the natural is in the other printer being waited waiting to be used but you can do the same trick I can start get all four of the starting colors which I do have in fact I pulled the black that is done being printed out of the other printer pull the black out put it in put the other colors in I can do the first four colors and then the fifth color is not going to work because it's I don't have the right color but I can load it all load a random spool of any filament in there and then set all the the um AMS slots correctly and then just pull that when the print starts it doesn't pay attention to what's in there anymore once the print starts and then once the natural is done in the other print I can load it in and if it gets to the almost the end and then has to wait for the natural for a little bit that's just fine it'll just error out because there's not filament in that slot

Channel: HueForging

Views: 29,084

Keywords:

Id: CGS7Adhyz2w

Length: 14min 27sec (867 seconds)

Published: Thu Aug 31 2023