HueForgeU: This is not a Photo. It's a 3D Print. HueForge + Paint.NET + PrusaSlicer

[Music] foreign okay this is going to be a discussion about coloring and why coloring in Hue Forge doesn't work the way that you probably think it should so I'm going to drop it bring an image in and I did record this this morning and didn't get us ended up getting sidetracked and decided to go a different route with it so I am going to go down that route rather than try to use this mornings so first let's talk about color color in Hue Forge is actually turned into luminance and you can see this if you come to the image format and click on luminance and the tricky part is that this image this color image let's go back to color as black and white here pretty much there's a little bit of a bluish tint here but basically black and white and then we have this color and the way that hueforge works is it starts at black being zero height and white being full height and black to white covers that entire range and so like the white highlights on her face some of the whiter highlights here um pretty much white on the face is gonna be the brightest thing in here those are going to be full luminants would be one and these blacks on the outside on our headband here inner eyes you know down in these Shadows those are going to be zero and so her face which is a color which stands out to us is actually um in the middle of that it's between the black and the white somewhere in a gray and there's plenty of gray in this image too so if I replace one of these Grays the brown you'll see that all her face turns brown here but so does all of this dark area here and if I put an orange in here maybe higher you see the rest of her face turns orange but so does the rest of this and we can play games and try to get it to you probably even get something that looks pretty good but we just can't get rid of that bleed through there's some more games we can play we could put some whites in here intermediate whites to keep it there but then she starts with the weird the whites go overlap it's not a good look I'm just saying that that is an option to try to clean up some of this get rid of some of that but fundamentally the problem is is that this brown or orange of her face and the blue of her eyes and everything are all within the luminance band of the full black white you can bring in a red here maybe let's make it a little better we could get we can get something that looks cool we could we could abandon a little bit of the idea that she's going to be correctly colored and just pick a color scheme that we like um maybe even bring some blue in here we start adding colors bring some blue in here and get a you know kind of a purpley shady idea here um there's all kinds of things we can do to make a cool image but it's not going to be true to the color that you want and if you get her face color right probably we want this natural here which is actually 12. um we get our face color right we're probably not going to get you know the rest of it right that maybe shouldn't be orange it should be yellow to bring more red up there yeah something like that okay so if we want to get our face right we can't get her tentacles right and notice her eyes also we can't get her eyes right her eyes are the same orangish color as her face that's not ideal now there's things we can do um we can change our color mode to color aware which gives us some options but color aware is very experimental and hard to use right now it's not as smooth and the problem is it's very hard to tell what color something is it seems really easy but even if we look at these whites you can see here that this is dad0b8 that means that red and green are much higher than blue and so this would maybe be seen as a yellow how do you determine it's a white rather than a yellow and this over here is going to be different uh you know this we're off by a letter in in each group you know between red over here what we see as white um we have e0 D for b d so the BD is much lower and the D4 is fairly low is lower as well so how do you determine that that's a white versus some other color that it could be this is E9 D9 C2 so there's a big there's a falloff that's actually a diagonal so you would consider maybe that's a red but to us it looks like a white and so there's a perceptual versus um actual difference going on here and so it's kind of a tricky situation uh to tell you exactly what's going on everywhere so um right now the easiest thing to do for an image like this is to bring it into a photo editor and I've done that already so I'm going to bring this in the paint.net I've used paint.net because it's free and easy to get and so what we want to do is split this image into color domains now we're going to use the magic wand tool we'll come in here grab what we can do now I don't always understand why the magic wand dual tool works the way it does to be honest um it seems very odd the choices that it makes some of the times that it expands Beyond its boundaries but it turns out that once you get most of the surrounding area it's not too hard to just grab the rest in here oops hold down control then you can add two areas together to grab that that also this is the camera going out of it now obviously you can go into fine detail you could split out multiple Parts you could split the patterns you just put her lips you can split her eyes but we want to go down to basically the smallest grouping we can so there's some more stuff up here this takes a little bit of time and effort um to do but it doesn't take that long we're going to grab some more of this grab up here on the corner pull this one back a little hard to tell where okay and up our tolerance a little bit okay that went too far too far we're good and it's kind of up to you where you draw your boundaries to come all the way out here or do you pick a little closer into the start with your face I think we went a little too far back okay so now we're pretty good here we're at a little bit right here White okay and now we'll come in with our lasso tool and I'm just doing a mouse oh right scroll down blasto tool and grab these areas being similar well uh uh still working here let's go around here hey you don't be perfect but you do probably want to be pretty much along the edge um you want to get all this stuff along the edge it all consistent or else here bash will be very odd you need to do a bunch of different small grams you do as you can tell I am no pro at this uh control also control mouse wheel also zooms on this program so that can be helpful I wish that paint.net had a black plus two so our stock plus one so I could just extend my selection a little bit but it doesn't okay let's see what else we got the bottom down here we go oh uh this needs to be grabbed I missed that this wasn't part original grab this you can see it being selected all right so I'm going to go through do this and I think probably a little bit more magic wand down here there you go that that worked perfectly oh got a little bit too much here but rather than uh undo that magic wand which went really well I'm going to use alt which is a minus select on the lasso get rid of all this stuff perfect some of this can be in here for sure okay and then we'll go check up here I think there's a little issue up here yeah there's a little issue up here and I think the easiest thing to do is just going to be to get rid of this stuff that's on the outside oops and we'll head Alt you've got better Mouse hands than I do you can get a bunch of them and you can get as fine and detailed if you want okay that should be good so what we're going to do is we are going to do two things one we're going to cut this out roll X that cuts it out we're going to add a new layer we're going to select that layer and then we're going to paste back in so that we cut our face out we paste it into the next layer now there's probably a better way to do this this is how I know how to do this okay so now we're going to do the same thing again with the eyes the eyes are going to be a problem even with the face separated so we're going to grab the eyes as much as we can plus the eyes we'll grab this one as well this part of the eye starts up a little bit that's here not too much okay this is probably just best to start grabbing it so let me work on that all right so now I'm going to take the lasso tool just grab some more of this stuff remember hit control to grab the groove we're gonna pass them around here get much of this as high as we can in one go there we go there I think we'll come into this a little bit move it out good okay so now we have the eyes we're gonna do the same thing we did before we're going to control X cut them out we're going to add a layer and in this layer we're going to replace the eyes so now we have an escape get ready selection okay so now we have three layers by height pill I can take the eyes out and I can take the face out and then we just or I can show any individual one of those okay so the first thing we're going to do is we're going to um fill in background here these away all right so we're going to fill this background in and we want to fill it in with like a dark dark gray probably not 100 dark but pretty dark gray so that we have something to glue the face onto so we'll just blood fill that now you'll see that if I turn the face on you'll see that black under the eyes however that's not going to work that's not going to be the way it is um in here so we'll come to this layer turn this one off there's nothing in here so now we want actually pretty much black for these eyes because we want a little bit of a socket we'll just fill those in then we're going to come to the eyes now this is important these eyes are kind of too dim this is not very white and we really in the image when we look at it it looks quite White so we want the eyes to really show so we're going to do is we're going to come to adjustments and we're just on this layer the uh actually the wrong layer selection suggested selected we'll select the layer into adjustments and we'll do brightness and contrast it's actually dimmed so we'll bring these up we do want to actually increase the contrast a little bit make it a little bit easier for us to handle in the tool in qforge and that's probably good okay um if you want you can also saturate your colors a little bit more Refrigeration we can over saturate a little bit which I already have set up in here see the difference this is much black and white This is highly saturated so saturated a bit all right so now first let's save this project because there's other things we can do with this so we'll save this you look all this okay save it as so the what okay now we just save each individual file first of all we show you that the whole thing's put together you see this whole um the whole image is still here but now what we're going to do is save these individual layers so as far as I know there's not a way to save just a layer in hueforge or in um not heat Forge in paint so if I hide both these layers though I can save just the eyes so and basically you'd go through you'd say the eyes you'd say you flatten it it'll require you to flatten it when you're saving and I'll show you and this Ahsoka eyes only save it we would you say okay and then it's going to ask you if you want to flatten it and you flatten it then once that's saved you hit Ctrl Z undo that flattening and then you can save each individual layer as each other individual file the same way so I'm not going to walk you through that all here but let's just save each one of these individual files all right so I've saved all those files let's hop back into Hue Forge now we're set up basically for the face we're starting to be set up for the face so let's start with that back in here we'll open an image and we'll pull her face only now you might wonder why I didn't crop the background why didn't I crop out this region when I edited it and it's for a very simple reason well simple it's for a reason of me being lazy with the math so basically I know that this image is going to print at some size I haven't decided it yet here it sets a 200 maybe we want to set this on so it'll fit on most um Regular printers most like um creality um enter 3 Pros things like that or we want to set it so it'll sit fit nicely on a bamboo in any case let's let's science look reality so we'll do 215 with I didn't know what that width was going to be yet and because I didn't know what that width was going to be yet if I had cropped the image it would be very hard to keep them aligned to the right size it would be very hard to make sure that the resulting pieces of the end would go together so I decided to leave it all the same size big we can cut this out I'll show you how to cut this out in the slicer and make it a little bit easier to manipulate but since the background is that size I just decided to leave everything the same so I can use the same width that have every printer or every print be the right scale okay so this actually puts us pretty close right here where we're at right now is pretty close to what we want um so exactly um I have TR I played with this quite a bit and I found that some chocolate down here can really help and then also the big thing is bring your layer height down for for something like a face going down to 0.4 millimeter layer height makes a huge difference in the smoothness of the blend of the the color blend and then the other thing I found um was it actually coming down a bit thinner and bringing a different white on top this this um lower TD White on top really helps pop those um the white lines out because that's the Highlight around the nose and on the forehead so I get a just a little bit here I could go more if that's kind of up to personal preference how much more you want um I kind of like it subtle maybe this is good though I can make it brighter or more or less yellow I can make it a little bit more or less orange with the red the thing is I can make it all thinner by bringing all of these sliders down so I'll bring this down two one two as I bring this top slider down it dims the whole thing but that actually looks pretty good to me um this is it's not quite as dark it's going to be hard to get exactly there I can bring the thread up a little bit the problem is these really subtle Shades here have to be in layer steps and so you have to choose whether you want your layer step to come up maybe even most of the side of the face or you want to um to be lower kind of like this we could change the brightness a little bit over here maybe we want to make it a little dimmer that's a big brightness adjustment so let's adjust it down to a smaller size you see I dropped the drop down and now I'm changing one tenth of the amount each time okay so this looks pretty good to me so then we're going to go ahead and save this we'll save this project as toga it'll automatically put a hip at the end okay so now um this is not really going to be useful for the background this color scheme but there's no big deal let's open abroad just open an image we'll get tentacles only now this is not going to look good this is the problem we had before right these don't look right but we bring mostly sliders down bring the tentacles up a bit this already looks pretty good um but I think there's a little bit of blue in here so I'm going to grab this blue kind of a blue cast to it in the blue and just one or two layers of blue like that you bring those back that seems too blue let's bring a blue down let's bring our brightness down a little bit let's get the face black there I think that's actually pretty good this is actually really easy to do um when it's separated because it's mostly just grayscale now you could you know fine tune this adjust this do what you want to do with it but this looks pretty good to me I can brighten it or dim it by moving this upper slider okay that's an important feature this upper slider is set with Dynamic depth so this mesh is changing height are you as I move the slider up and down it's actually changing the mesh height right it's making the mesh so you see this Max step well here's the actual depth 1.4 is the actual depth and that's the depth of the slider so um what in Dynamic depth that's what happens in static depth it actually this sliders all the way at the top all the time now the difference is and then in clip step that also acts like a slider the height is going to be Max of 0.2 uh for the overall mesh but it as you bring it down it cuts off the top of the mesh in order to start seeing it happening here it's flattening out there and getting getting flat so but I like the dynamic version because it lets me adjust the mesh depth so do that so that may be a little dark let's bring the black down one the blue enough blue in there so and then brightens your tentacles a little bit gives a little bit more space here we still see distinct colors and the bright areas maybe you want to bring this down a little bit more bright areas here that aren't blown out but are bright yeah there we go all right so I'm happy with that when this one is really easy to do because it's just mostly black and white with a tiny little bit of blue in there save that but uh all right and now we need to do the eyes oops not project open file image okay now we have these tiny little eyes now you can use the right Mouse button yeah the middle Mouse button sorry uh to drag it and then you can use the mouse and move it in so we can get closer to the actual eyes and see them better now we want these to be really thin so I'm just going to go ahead and drop them down to one I think we probably want a dim style of I and then um we just want to get the color about right now I think that there's some gains to be made by using a slightly different blue so I'm going to use this Lake blue sky blue get closer to what I want and then probably we want a brighter white this brighter white here now it's this is four colors you know one AMS unit which is nice um but we might actually want it's also important to note that we can often since we're thinning the mat we want these eyes really thin we want them basically as thin as we can get them so you can bring the top slider down and thin the mesh and then you still have your blacks as blacks and your Blues as blues so maybe this white isn't as white as you want though I will note in the eyes they weren't it wasn't super duper White um there was some blending there okay that's the edge see the edges are darker which is why we're getting a little bit of glue through the edge there now also of note this may be if you have a 0.2 millimeter nozzle this might be a great thing to print on that point too so you get more detail look at how much nicer those eyes look and point two then point then point three or that you know 0.1 detail level on a 0.2 nozzle so these are real small prints this is what you bring out your 0.2 millimeter nozzle for it's still not going to take very long to print but you're going to get a much better result so I like that at 0.2 and I have a 0.2 millimeter nozzle so I'm going to go ahead and save that project and there we go so now I've had a request to do the updates on this improves the slicer to do the slicing and push the slicer to show you how it works let's bring up Bruce's slicer and I will drag in these images let's start with the tentacles now I have this set for a much bigger printer but it'll work this should work on a on a smaller printer okay one trick I've learned in a previous slicer I've got this already set for my default 0.04 0.16 millimeter first layer um I've unchecked basically all of these quality slower slicer settings except for detect thin walls I've gone to Arachne or sorry to Classic so you could do Arachne if you wanted uh the big thing I found and this surprised me is these Extrusion widths need to be fixed if they're percentages the slicing takes forever I don't know why but if these are fixed values it works just fine so let me go ahead and slice it and I'll actually slice this live it goes a lot faster there you go all done that's sliced per 0.4 millimeter nozzle have that set here it's my point four with a point four millimeter heading all right so now we need to pull up the description of this so let me bring that up here we go here's the description now I didn't set this by this black is not the patchy black I just need a black back here and then I'm going to do a blue and a natural or white so then it's 0.32 and 0.4 are my swaps 0.32 notice they have them labeled here on the side this is very nice 0.32 and you can see it is labeled layer five let's confirm that layer five point three two right click add color change then you can set the color I don't didn't used to do this you should just set them you can set the color here and this is like yours your marker blue and then if we look the next swap is at point four here okay so this is a light blue oh sorry this is not blue this is white okay so we'll just oops change that out we'll add our color swap back White all right so we're going black blue white and this is actually a regular blue it doesn't really matter you can right click and change the color here this is like a regular blue okay and then we'll bring this up and you can see we have our swaps all set and we're ready to go and if we bring up Hue Forge they open that project and we look in this normal mode we click normal you can see that this is this looks the same this just like this all right so we were sliced there and we send it off the printer each of them you do the same way you just bring in the new file um prusa also lets you do discard all custom changes which is nice so that you can okay so one of the issues you run into in bamboo if you don't make a new plate if you make a new plate you're all set but if you don't make a new plate and you just delete it and then you want to bring in the face just I'm loading it oh that's wrong I tried to bring in the described text file okay bring in the face um now this background what is going on here that looks crazy this is what I call the lazy programmer rectangle it is transparent when you slice this this will go away I'll show you that but then I'm going to show you another way to make it go away and it can actually fix some of these small open edges see it all went away when I placed it um it's a zero height rectangle is my easy way to get transparent cutouts but if you want to get rid of this you don't like this come here use a layer cut you want object B and then you just set the custom Z position to zero it's literally just going to cut it cut a infinitesimally small layer off the bottom and then there you go it's all it's all gone so if it if you don't like it go ahead and do that okay and then here all these swaps are wrong so let's just discard all our custom changes you know these kind of Wiggly patterns here from the fusions and then what we're going to do is we're going to bring up that described text here so we need the three six four four six four eight eight and one two eight I'm gonna put this off the screen and just go through here so the first one is to 0.36 and again we can see it so it's really nice that color this one is going to a chocolate brown so get darker Brown and then at four four we go to a red six four we go to our our yellow at 19 and layer 19 which is 0.88 we switch to our natural White and then there's a second white so at one two eight we're gonna go to White again and I'm gonna change this color just a little bit so that we can tell the difference so there's a chain there you go um that's not obviously what's going to look like in the when it's printed but one of these is a a very high TD White the natural is a very high TD White and then this gray is a low much lower TD White that's going to give us our final highlight to make these quite bright white and things like that so there you go that's sliced and ready to go you send it to your printer oh you you do have to slice it one more time now this is a huge benefit a proof the Slicer in my mind that you can do all of these changes on the slider manipulate them do everything until you're all ready and then you slice one last time and then it tells you the breakdown of how much time everything's going to take how much filament everything's going to take you need 2.2 grams of black 0.52 grams of brown and so forth like very little filament the whole thing I think is five grams um the whole thing is six grams over here so this is how you do it improve the slicer you set it off the printer and you print it so now this is going to be printed in three prints if you have multiple printers go ahead um in fact I printed the face and the eyes at 0.2 millimeters actually on my 0.2 millimeter nozzle and I printed the tentacle background on a 0.4 millimeter nozzle and got results that I'm very happy with so I'm going to put those up at the end of the video I know this was a longer video but hopefully it was helpful in understanding both how the color modeling works and how uh the luminance model gives you your colors but also how you can overcome that on at least some images it's not going to work for every image but on especially those color pop images where you have a lot of black and white and then a small colored area of red or or yellow something that stands out you can do this process and get them separated relatively easily so again I'll put those images up there at the end and the final result I hope this was helpful

Channel: HueForging

Views: 16,098

Keywords: HueForge, Sliders, Image Editing, Colors, Ahsoka, Star Wars, 3D Printing

Id: Z-Lr7d5aKbc

Length: 33min 38sec (2018 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 01 2023