How to use Blue Stuff Tutorial | Green Stuff World | #askHearns

it's something that's very well worth having just in your toolbox because you never know when you may need it hello this is bjo from hearns hobbies and i'm going to be talking about blue stuff today now it's not just blue gloves it's actually blue stuff so blue stuff is a magical material which is uh from green stuff world and it's a thermoplastic so basically i've got a video all right so you can get it in different sizes amounts you see here if you get eight four bars or eight bars depending on how much you need so this is what it looks like you can see how flexible it is this is basically used for making molds so this will act like your silicon and being a thermoplastic all you have to do is heat it it goes all soft you press it onto the particular item that you want to replicate you let it cool down and then it will have the impression within the material so i've got a set that's already opened here i think i only need one pack to demonstrate so i'll use one stick and what i'll do is i've got this figurine here just to let you see how much detail it can capture i'll just do the head section here so we'll do the one block and then after that i'm going to let it cool and then i'm going to put some epoxy putty in there and i already have some prepared here this is actually milliput which i've already kneaded together so you can use milliput or green stuff there's green stuff there you cut the section off and then you knead it together until it's got a uniform color and then this is what we'll use for pressing into the mould that's going to take a few hours to set um and then we'll pull it out and let you see what's what it's like okay so to begin with you need some hot water now it needs to be reasonably hot so what i've got is i've got trusty mug over here and i've got some bored water which is in this um flask now i'll put in the flask because we don't really have a uh a kettle handy so this is just to make sure it remained hot so we'll pour plenty in there just i can cover up the uh the whole stick okay so we've got the stick there i'm just going to drop it in now there we go i'll let it sit in there a bit and we'll check it now and again until it goes soft obviously that um uh depends on how hot the the water is i mean if it's freshly boiled then it'll take less time but something like this doesn't come out of our um hot water dispenser it might be at 70 degrees i think so it may take a little bit longer so we'll leave it there for the moment now let's just quickly talk about uh some of the other things so green stuff is probably the most popular two-part epoxy milliput has been around for a very very long time very trusty the two work basically the same but they have different characteristics so milliput has a slightly grainy feel it's still very good for um remodeling filling large gaps uh sculpting the green stuff has a more i guess you call it a plastic smoother feel so for doing finer um details such as straps buttons uh we can even use that for doing uh full modifications as well so you get your choices you really use anything there's also plaster you can use for this uh thermoplastic again we can drop in it may alter the um the finer details because it may soften them so ultimately any of the colder setting epoxies or modern materials are best all right so let's just give this a little poke around and see how it's going you see there see how it's already changing shape now that needs a bit longer although it's actually not bad all right so let's just pop it in there a bit longer i'll leave it there for another minute or so and then we'll squeeze it on now what i'm going to show you here is the most simple one-piece mold so all that means is i'm going to push it through the front and you're only going to get one side you can get two piece moulds as well which means you apply it on the front first let that sit and then get another piece and apply it onto the back now if i've got enough time i might actually show you that as well so i think that's probably about long enough all right let's just squeeze that together see how it's becoming a homogenous mess and then i've got the face there and we'll press it over so i'm trying to press in all the different directions so that it makes contact with even around the neck where you've got a really tight bit and then i'm pressing it all the way to the base so it's nice and flat so that if i can do the two piece mould it can lock on really well okay i think that's pretty good now you want to make sure you've got enough material on the front because it's it's depending on how thick this particular material is with how much flex it has so if you've got too thin around your detail it'll flex when you're pressing in your mould and it might look warped okay so let's just leave this to cool and we might come back in about five minutes okay so we're back after about five minutes and i've cleaned up a little bit a little bit here before but here we have our blue stuff which i left there before let's have a closer look at the back okay so you see how it's actually pressed in pretty well it's probably done better than i thought so if i want to do a two-piece mould so they're going to get perfectly the back of the head that's going to be quite easy so i'll do that in a sec i think now let me just make sure that this is going to come apart and you see how it's peeled apart that's perfect that's exactly what i wanted to do okay so before we move on to the next step let me just get a bit more actually i don't need much there so what i might do is just cut a bit off here and reheat it okay so let's give you an idea just how versatile this is just carefully cutting this so i don't damage the original that's underneath it's just getting close to the arm just cutting off this extra bit that's not going to be used in the initial mould and we'll reuse it for the back all right how are you doing there all right that's pretty good just tear that off stick that back on maybe okay so i'm just going to chuck this back into my water it should be still hot enough leave it in there for a little bit until it goes soft and then i'm just going to press it on the back so being a two piece mold what you have to watch out for is you don't want the secondary piece adhering to this one and it shouldn't be a problem because this one's already cool and by the time that goes on it might reheat it to a point where it'll go a bit softer but it shouldn't actually adhere to the new bit so this is something to watch out for but once it gets soft we'll just press it into here give another five minutes let it cool and then we'll start making our mold okay so let's have a closer look how are we going no not quite yet it's probably yeah it's still starting to cool down a bit let's give it a bit of a stir give it a little bit longer okay so this example is actually turning out much better than i expected okay so that's a one piece now if there's if we're ready to use that what we'll do is we'll just peel that off and we'll start pressing some putty into there but seeing that i want to do the toothpiece mould i won't peel it off yet because i want it to be as tight as possible as the original to maintain its uh its dimensions so getting close i think all right let's have a look see that see how it's all really soft now it's folding on itself which is good so i'm just going to get this and press it in here now with the two-piece you want to get it on a point where it can interlock something so what i'm using as a guide is that top bit of sprue and the bottom of the uh of the body okay so it's pretty good let's give it another five minutes and we'll separate it okay so it's just been a few minutes and we're coming back to it so i've had to check and it's already um cooled down i mean that's taken uh this time because it's a smaller piece now i should add that i'm wearing gloves at the moment simply because i'm using epoxy putty and it's very very sticky but with this stuff you don't need to so it's all in there the way it is i just left them on just because they were on it saves me from putting them on uh when we're going to be working with the uh the melee putt okay so here's a bit that i added later now you see how it's just peeled off cleanly and you may see there this is a very small indentation on the back of the head now when i was talking about before about making um anchor points the whole idea is you want to be able to put it back in exactly the same spot so you see how it just naturally falls in that spot now and that's how you don't get warped funny back of the head i mean if you want to make sure it locks in completely you could put little marks in here so they're like king points but that's good enough for what we're doing i think okay so we've got the back and then we've got here so we'll just peel it off and there you go that is the basic mould you can't see a lot now but you might see you've got the shoulder impressions the face impression in there all right so we've got our two pieces here we've got the main bit got the back bit okay so here's a bit of um putty i've already mixed up before so this was equal parts of the hardener and then the epoxy section of the milliput so you can see it here your two sections here uh you got the hardener bit and then you got the epoxy bit so equal parts you mix them together until it's got a uniform color so if it's got bits of other color in it it's not quite ready that means it won't sit properly so you want it basically the same color now i've just guessed the amount and that's one of the tricky things about this because you need to get close to the amount if you don't have enough then you're not going to be able to mold it properly and then if you've got too much it may be bulging so let's just chop this bit now obviously the more most important bit is we want to be able to mold the actual facial features so we'll get those in there so you can see i'm going to stretch it out a bit get that in and then press it tight okay because that's the most important bit you want you want to see all those features and then the rest of it we'll pop in the back here now in hindsight what i've got here may not be enough but we'll give it a go all right so you see how it's bulged you want to squeeze it like this all right and then we'll get out back a bit and we'll just stick it on here somewhere build it again about here all right all right so we've got all our bits together and it's just a matter of squeezing it now this would have been nice if i had some more i think but we'll just squeeze like that so basically by pressing into here it's forcing the putty into the back section and all the way around the sides i've already pushed it up the front so i'm pretty confident that the front detail is already done and what we'll do is because the milliput takes a few hours to go off and harden we'll leave it like this untouched um for a few hours and we'll come back and then i'll compare what i've done here to the original which is there okay so i'll see you back in a bit okay thanks for coming back all right so we've left uh all this for a few hours so we had the uh the melee part that i put inside there's the two parts of my mould now it's hard to say how long it's going to take to set because if it's hot weather or set quicker it was a small bit it will set quicker and such so basically you need to do is if you're in a bit of a hurry you need to hit that with a hair dryer to heat it up because epoxy putties do go harder quicker or they they do solidify harder if you put heat to them um or you just get something pointy just poke it in there feel what it's like it feels pretty solid so it's ready to unmold okay so here's a top that i did before so we'll just peel that off and then here's a big reveal so basically just open it up like this then carefully pick it out like so and there you go and that's exactly the same as we copy from so when you need to do a very quick copy of components this is the easiest way to do it so it's not going to be as clean as doing a full scale silicon mold type of arrangement but then again the second mold type arrangement is more expensive and also messier because you have to mix up the silicone wait for that to sit and then mix it up again to do your two-part mold so as you see this all depends on how well you press all your parts together you're going to get some sort of flash because of the two pieces so there's that that's a natural flash that was on it so you just got to trim that off and then at the back you'll notice that it doesn't quite meet up perfectly so it's still going to need a little bit of cleanup but for something that was this quick to mold and just say you just want to make a few of them that's perfect it was mainly the face that you were interested in then that is absolutely perfect there's absolutely nothing wrong with that there's no flash no imperfections so if that's the most important part you just make sure that you press the putty really deeply in there to get all these details to come up so that is the mould as you can see there see how flexible it is and if we want to make another one well we'll just do it again we'll just get some more putty mix it up press it inside you get your back end fit it on two pieces now you notice that my two-piece mould is very simple it's all very flat here so that when you try to line it up it probably doesn't line up all that well now if you plan or if i'd planned it better you'd probably put some marks in here with the end of a uh a paintbrush and that will give you more keys so then when i press this on it'll perfectly lock in place but for the quick demo i think that's not too bad okay a little bit clean up on the back the front which is the most important perfect so that's my simple demonstration on how to use blue stuff now of course you've got this which you use as many times as you like but the great thing about it is once you've done the few duplicates that you want you just pop all this back into some hot water and you just reuse it that's a great thing and that is why blue stuff is quite magical so thanks for watching the um the demo i hope you learned how to use it and how special this particular stuff is and it's something that's very well worth having just in your toolbox because you never know when you may need it and so easy to use and reusable as well you

Channel: Hearns Hobbies

Views: 19,839

Keywords: hobby, hobbyshop, rc, remote, control, rcplane, rccar, rcdrone, fpv, fpvdrone, car, drone, plane, train, rctrain, model, kit, plastic, traxxas, tamiya, hobao, hot, bodies, yokomo, fms, horizon, hobbies, dji, mavic, pro, phantom, team, black, sheep, ethix, hornby, woodland, scenics

Id: n8COT4Ng90w

Length: 16min 26sec (986 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 29 2021