HOW GOOD is Molding and Casting with "Blue Stuff"?...

it is table top time i'm dave and today in this video i'm going to be exploring the world of blue stuff now i've handled green stuff before and mill apart but i've never actually dived into casting my own models now this blue stuff by green stuff world is a meltable plastic compound that you can use to make press molds and you can reuse it and heat it up supposedly i've never actually used it before i did watch a really cool video by plasmo and they went in and just showed the process and i'm hoping it's going to be as easy as it looked there but hey we're going to go on a journey i'm going to do some experimentation with it i'm going to see if i can for my own personal use duplicate some parts i might have in small supply that i need for my stormcast eternal custom army i'm also going to try out some different epoxies we've got miller part i've also got a hardware epoxy from the local store so if you don't have a game store near you perhaps the hardware store will suffice without further ado i think it's time to start playing with blue stuff now the first step to using blue stuff is to heat it up in some boiling water but before i did that i wanted to make sure that i had all the components i was going to be duplicating or making on hand and ready to go one of the things i was interested in duplicating were some of the mud lads shields for jazza's new rx now their shields are in short supply i don't believe you get any spares but i haven't had a good look at the sprue yet either way there won't be enough on there to do what i want to do in an upcoming video we're going to be making a really cool project where jen and myself actually built something for jazza and we're going to need a whole bunch of those cruel boy shields to make it really cool so i'm hoping that this casting method will allow me to get that effect in a simple way i'm also going to try making some press molds of some various statues or larger objects that could be perhaps used as terrain and then as a final piece i'm really going to stress test this blue stuff by using these stormcast prosecutor wings these are so thin and delicate and fiddly that if the blue stuff and miller putt technique can really work i'll i'll be seriously impressed but we'll save that till last so while the kettle boils i'm going to talk to you about maybe i shouldn't record something while the kettle starts that was a lot quicker than i thought it would be it's like nah it'll take like a minute and and then we chill no just straight away straight into the boiling cool i pulled out the blue stuff for the first time and actually handled it it has a sort of a smooth texture it's firm but a little bit flexible it's similar to an eraser but maybe a little bit more firm and and less brittle than an eraser which was interesting it's kind of kind of fun to play with not that that is its intended use i only started with two pieces as an experiment and i'll pull them out and have a look but i'm not going to use my fingers because putting thingies in boiling water is generally a bad idea the blue stuff didn't take too long to set i did find that once i got it out of the water it had a much faster drying and setting time than i felt that i was expecting while usually i would prefer to do things in a more orderly fashion nicely squared off and things placed efficiently this allowed me no opportunity to do that it was entirely you put the items straight in or else you don't get to do it luckily if i did miss out and it wasn't soft enough by the time i went to press in plastic i could just put it back in the hot water for a little bit i started with a couple of shields and the lid of one of these munitorum almond containers knowing that the shields would be simple pour moulds i wouldn't need to make a back half for however the lid i was thinking it would be worth making a back for so i got another piece of the blue stuff and then squished it in over the top after it had dried i did realize that the fact that you heat it up in boiling water means that well there's water on it and you don't really have much time to get that water off so when i peeled open the press mold you can see that there's some weird spots where water had settled in and been pushing against it and made some strange little artifacts on the mold itself to get out of this little conundrum i decided to use a plastic bag now at the time submerging a plastic bag in boiling water seemed like a gamble i was willing to take what i didn't expect was that the blue stuff which had resisted adhering to pretty much anything adhered immediately to the plastic bag once hot now this makes sense as they're both plastics but look i'm not a chemist unlike some youtubers out there so i didn't realize that the two particular types of plastic would bond once they were heated so it was back to just dealing with potentially wet molds i decided at this stage that due to the way i was filming and the time that i have with my hands it would be much more sensible to do the plaster pores first and then use the blue stuff for the longer setting molds with the epoxies later so i'm going to start with the plaster mold because i knew i'd be needing a lot more shields i went in and i pressed molded several more of the shield so that i could do a bigger batch at a time i wish i had more blue stuff on hand and supposedly there is more in the studio but we don't know where it is so my first set of moulds have been created and they do look pretty good i had to make a little bit of what i'm calling a thermoplastic band-aid on the back of this mold a word of warning out there to people who are first off using this like me to be just aware that your blue stuff is really thick so that you can press into it without it risking pushing through to the other side although fingers crossed this little band-aid solution works i'm not sure if it will but if it does it's a really good lesson for you out there that you can just use a little bit more blue stuff heat it up and then kind of squish it back over where the plastic pressed through the back of the mold if it doesn't work then it's on me and it's my mistake and one that you don't have to make that's all part of this hands-on learning approach that can be really fun with darby as an extra little bonus though i think i'm going to use a medium that i hadn't actually considered using at the start of the video u v resin now this is all the rage and i really like the stuff it is really expensive though so i just want to see how it works with the blue stuff moulds uh does it pull out of the blue stuff moulds with ease does it cause any major issues with the blue stuff molds these are kind of things that will i guess help if you need to really quickly make something because uv resin with a uv light will be dry completely in like one to five minutes so if you need to smash out a mold let's see if uv resin does the trick these had some surprising effects one of them was to make the bottom of the blue stuff like pucker up and almost suck up into the mould which is really bizarre it didn't actually pierce the mould but i'm guessing it had to do with the heat when it was curing i know that uv resin gets very hot when it cures but i don't think it affected the quality of the cast the second was how well the actual cast dried i don't know what is going on today but for some reason uv resin is taking forever to dry so minor issues and overall i think the quality of the actual cast was fantastic the detail looks really really good however i'm sure cleaning up and chipping out the overspilled areas of the cast that went over the mold it's probably going to be the most complex job using uv resin because it's a little bit brittle and it has a different consistency to other putties the second thing i've learned is this lightweight plaster may not be the best suited to very very tiny molds i think the quality of the cast is proven by green stuff and i can see i i half pulled one out and it crumbled but i could see on the pieces the cast was perfect now that's probably because it hasn't had enough time to set i imagine it will take 12 hours to a day to fully reach a level of hardness but it's also full of bubbles and i'm just not sure how they're going to go overall so i'm going to pivot a little bit and i'm actually going to use the shields because i need them for another project to test out the differences between this the bunnings epoxy and miller part to see which one gets a better result [Music] oh right yo the time has come i'm nervous to spin and reveal okay it's not a perfect reproduction with this cell is needed but it gets across everything that needs to be got across and for doing stuff like terrain i think that this is perfect you don't need the quality to be higher than this especially on terrain so if you want to do something like duplicate these shields so that you can put them on the side of your hobby project that's secret in the next video yeah pretty easy i'm looking forward to seeing this millipot one but it's gonna need another like three hours to dry so i won't be able to see that same as the lid for the box that i didn't have enough blue stuff to sculpt but while we're here let's pop one more plaster one out now i'm not going to pop them all out i'm going to give them you know proper 12 hours or whatever to dry so next to an identical cast plaster has done a far worse job than the epoxy it's also really really fragile i might as well pop these out if they're solid enough to be popped out of the mold it means i can reuse this mold later that came out pretty well teeth are a bit broken but that's all right it'll work as long as it dries a bit harder and i can safely clean up i'll be happy with that i'll set up my next blue stuff molds which will be the prosecutor wings i actually think this is gonna probably push it further than it's able to go someone who's a veteran could probably do this easily with blue stuff and with more blue stuff but i'm not sold [Music] now [Music] all right i've come in it's the morning i'm very tired i've got my coffee and i'm ready to see what happened now i have to say i'm not really anticipating success here i think that if anything is sort of an almost impossible stress test for a beginner it would be these prosecutor wings they are so complicated so fiddly so thin that even if i think this succeeds it will probably be a nightmare to clean up and i don't think it's gonna succeed so we'll start with the centerpiece yeah it's pretty much like i thought it would be the design has been made very well but there's so much flash and squished in miller park i don't know how to not be crap like that but the back the backup is very nice next up if that wasn't a success i can't imagine that our prosecutor wing is going to be a major success but let's have a look it's exactly what it's the same thing like all of this miller flash that maybe less is more with this and i'm just new to it but it's really hard to to kind of make the item without and press them together and know that you've got enough in there without um putting too much in there i guess again the back side is far better than the front side the back side is almost usable i have this aching to go back to the the hardware store epoxy i've got these shields and they are solid as a rock they have all the elements i think that we're going to need and it's just a matter if i can get it into the mold so i'm going to do one last attempt combining all the things i've learned to try and make the other prosecutor wing and see what i can achieve hopefully it'll turn out but either way i think this is a very accurate representation of what you out there would experience if you were to try and do this at home with zero experience it's a little bit different to what a lot of the youtube tutorials will show you because it's harder than it looks it's a pretty cool tool but it's not carbon copying any of my models anytime soon i decided to get a little bit wild with my last cast of the day so i mixed some green stuff with some milliput to make a blend and then i put it in my wing cast so i'm about to find out exactly how i did it is time to have a look and see the final results of my dabbling have i learned anything have i achieved anything we shall see as i reveal my prosecutor wings the problem is much as i anticipated the two halves of the putty didn't really join together very well it's also still not actually set what the hell it looks better there's less bubbles in it there are some rough patches though [Music] well there you have it i hope you enjoyed my little explore into blue stuff and if that inspires or maybe deters you from getting blue stuff in the future i'd be really interested to hear what you have to say and the idea that it's reusable is really good but um cleaning it is another thing these are just absolutely deeply deeply apologize if he could have just interrupted like 30 seconds later we would have been right at that awkward outro oh yeah i know right i'm so sorry so anyway thanks guys thank you everyone see rob's here too thank you to our patrons there's an on air light they got it on there lie and uh and they just ignore it so well there you go there goes the end of my video

Channel: Tabletop Time

Views: 161,856

Keywords: RPG, DnD, roleplay, role play, role, play, pathfinder, stream, live, livestream, dice, dragons, dungeons, LARP, tabletop, table, game, gaming, roleplaying game, Dungeons and Dragons, Roll Play, D&D, Dungeons, Dragons, Pen and Paper, roleplayoing, itmeJP, campaign, story, storytelling, matt mercer, Criticall Role, Critical Roll, D20, D6, cogent, cogent roleplay, warhammer, 40k, warhammer 40k, miniature, mini painting, kitbash, customize, custom chapter, greenstuff, sculpt, games workshop

Id: zIf7QmdU8eI

Length: 14min 11sec (851 seconds)

Published: Tue Aug 17 2021