HOW TO TURBO YOUR HONDA ( A-Z )

what's going on you guys welcome back to the channel if you guys seen the last video it is the same day as the packaging unboxing I'm supposed to be working on the CRX which I am gonna do so in just a second here I need to get the coop off but the coop sits here and my cousin's here with his car we're doing a compression test to make sure his engine is healthy which it's looking really damn healthy as of right now and we're gonna be troubling it really soon and if you guys didn't see the last video I did mention we do have all of our key tags for the bill to drive now available on the website link will be in the description below so be sure to go over there pick yourself up a key tag limited stock and get yourself some t-shirts too if you guys want to support bill to drive and all of our projects so I'm gonna get everything cleaned up right now and he's about to be done in just a minute here I'm gonna move the coop out and then bring the CRX up pull the bumper off and I think the first thing we're gonna do is the intercooler mounting charge pipes before we move over to the hot side stuff so I just move the CRX up just remove the bumper and stuff and men look at the amount of room I have down there plenty of room for activity my cousin in pic just took off like not too long ago they went to go to smoke eater to grab some eat while I stayed behind and catch up with the bill but we spent maybe like an hour or so just sitting here with his laptop and we were putting a lot of terrible stuff in his cart before making his purchase so if you guys want to stick around for my cousin's right-hand drive type our turbo for or hit the subscribe button right now so because this is more of a how to terrible your Honda video guys I just want to give you guys a quick little run down on what consists in a turbo kit that you're gonna need to turn on your car and you know referring to Honda here for the most part cuz I know some chezy's can get away with different things but I wrote this down many years ago and the main piece of the puzzle which sits right there is obviously a turbo manifold that connects to your turbo and to control boost you need a wastegate and for turbo itself you need a down pipe a pipe dump tube whichever you prefer out the hood or under the car or full exhaust system right the turbocharger dam loops around through the charge piping which is the intercooler piping system that you're gonna need to connect to the intercooler now some setups run a watered air some set it run error error some people would only run in cool at all so that's just really up to your preference but you're gonna need an intercooler if you're doing it the way that I'm doing it today and on top of the charge system you need a blow-off valve because that's what makes the terrible sound cool if you guys want turbo noises a blow-off valve is a must if you want to retain all the boost if you don't have to run a blog valve at all now for the turbo cooling system you're gonna need an oil feed line and then you're gonna annoy already need a return line that's big enough to flow efficiently and typical size for a return line is a dash 10 now the feed line it just depends on what size turbo you're running you can put a restrictor you can run a dash 3 or a dash 4 then t-bolt clamps and couplers are typically included with an Akula kit if you decide to buy a whole kit but if you buy them separately then you need those suckers too now for you to properly tune the car or turn it up for the most part you're gonna need a bigger injector a bigger fuel pump and an engine management program so for Honda's we have chip ECU which people mostly run chrome turbo edit it's still around but not a lot of people turn up edit because that's more of a nobody zero software and the tune your car most tuners prefer to go Oh buddy one which simplifies everything there's also Neptune they have the demon boards out there there's s-300 there's motek there's AM but the two most common one for street use or track news or something much affordable is chrome for the cheaper side then Honda is what most people run so in this video alone I'm gonna try to cover everything as much as possible and just kind of show you guys how I'm gonna go about to bring my CRX and the first thing I'm gonna do today because we've already lost half a day it's to mount the intercooler and at least fab the charge pipe up attack it if not fully welded with the blog valve before we step into the hot of things which is the manifold down private dump - so I'm gonna grab the inner cooler real quick and then we'll start mocking that up on the radiator support we got Lucy and we got memmio in the building guys hey what's up G what you need what you need let me know let me know no okay so anyways guys I got the intercooler kind of in place of where I want it to be it's not super low it's definitely higher than the lower radiator support right and what I'm going to be doing as far as this goes is I'm just gonna use some flat stock go from the lower rigid support here to the tab and well that sucker in place put some bolts in it I'm probably gonna make the tabs tack it in place and then fit the bumper to see if I need to push it in further scoot it over here scoot it over there and then once it fits to the bumper and Grille nicely will fully well to tap into place and we'll move on to the charge pipe [Applause] oh yeah that is perfect from the end of this grill right here to here it's pretty much the whole length of the intercooler which is what I was shooting for and looks really good I pick it up a little bit more all the gaps are closed no interference whatsoever now you can see here on the back side hopefully I have plenty of space to make that cross bracket to bolt up to the T bracket so that way the intercooler doesn't flop around so I bought two 90-degrees two and a half inch couplers right here because I wasn't sure if I wanted to cut pies and then weld it directly to the end tank and turn it in really sharp to go back door here and now the same on this side you can see where it's overlapped right here about half of that what I got to do is I got to plan out how I'm gonna go about doing this right now I got two choices I can cut the pies weld it on the tank turn it backward or cut the coupler about maybe an inch and a half right so this will be a sharp 90 and then this portion right here is what's gonna go on the end tank and that's okay because you know this is a three ply is pretty thick and then the intercooler itself has b-roll so you can see where it's humped right there as long as I put a clamp right here with this Scouten all the way and tighten down it shouldn't pop off so about a year or so ago I used to do a lot of charge pipe in the cooler intake work for a lot of customers all these right here are 3 inches brand new use straights 45s and 90s but I'm not gonna be using this because these are all three-inch I have a bunch of couplers these are all three-inch I have a lot of straights to in the halves but I was actually looking for more of a 45 if you bought an inner cooler kit that's made for your car already then you can skip this whole process the only reason why I'm doing this is cuz I'm making it how I want the charge pipe to look in my car nice and tucked and I have a bunch of materials to do so so I'm gonna fabricate my own charge pipe system and I'm gonna be using the HKS blower valve that was sent to me from lucky and his buddy so it saves me cost on buying an intercooler kit and on ebay there's really no direct fit for EFS so making my own and designing it nice and tucked it's kind of how I like it so I'm gonna mark up some pieces real quick and then I'm gonna show you guys what I come up with all right after about 35 40 minutes of cutting different pies to get the charge pipe to go where I wanted to go and I think you know this is probably where I want it on the h22 CRX it was designed the same way on my original charge pipe with a table valve that I have box over there is designed the same way and I kind of like this fashion because it keeps all of this area right here cleared and typically for the ef-s you know it goes from there and it comes down this hole and then a 90s 90s this way to the inner cooler and then it goes 90 back 90 up 90 around it's it's it's a pain in the ass for EF owners I suggest going back door it makes life a lot easier so this is the mock up for my charge pipe a little info on charge pipe system the more couplers you have the more potential coupler to be blown off but it's always nice to have at least like a minimum of four cuz I ride the blow of a charge pipe then blow up the turbo or anything that he can back pressure into now I can't do this one just yet because I don't have my turbo in place if you guys already bought a turbo kit that has a manifold that bolts up to your engine with the turbo and all that it'll be a lot easier for you to obviously you out your piping's but in my case I don't have a manifold what I'm gonna do as of right now is weld up that charge pipe because everybody is you know sleeping as of right now so I have access to the 220 volt I'm gonna set up my machine to weld aluminum knock that out and we'll find a placement for the blow-off valve and then we can continue this tomorrow with the manifold what's going on you guys welcome back to day two of this video last night we got the charge pipe all welded up now I haven't weld aluminum in a long time because they didn't have any argon but you know with a little bit of practice I kind of still got it so that's all done all nicely walled up we got the blow valve right here shoutout to lucky and his buddy I forgot his name sorry for sending me this HKS blow valve it was like slightly brand new with a brand new flange got that welded up as well and see clamped into place on both ends of the charge pipe i welded a bead on it so that way we can clamp the t-bolt in front of it and that'll keep it from popping out under load under boost right now the coupler is in place but the T bolts aren't because I'm probably going to remove it back out a couple of times and in this portion of the video we're going to do the manifold now if you guys bought a terrible kit that has a manifold then installing it it's pretty straightforward in my case I don't have a manifold and I'm actually gonna be building one I'm not gonna show it in this part of the video building the manifold but we're gonna be fab enough a log manifold to taking a bigger frame turbo although I'm using a small GT 28 and I'm also gonna be running a 44 mil we skate instead of your typical 38 millimeter so I'm gonna show you guys what I have right here as far as manifold making goes PRL half inch prl log style t3 flange we have right here 304 stainless steel schedule tens and I have enough here to make just a basic log manifold and again that's gonna be in a separate video in the next clip you guys should be seeing the log manifold installed alright guys so I don't know where we left off but I have my manifold now the video for this will drop really soon and I have this made for a big frame 35 R but I'm gonna be using the GT 28 which i think is perfect for the B 20 because we're not gonna be making a ton of power so we want this to spool quick and make all that power on the low end I'm gonna assemble the turbo on the manifold before putting this whole setup into the car I'm gonna talk briefly about the turbo manifold to the flange itself right here now you can see right here my turbo flange is threaded and in my case I'm going to be using a bolt and lock nut washer some people prefer studs which is perfectly fine as well - but sometimes depending on the turbo manifold and the the turbo you're gonna be using so sometimes you can't fit a bolt at this hole right here on the flange so some people prefer to use nut and then you know have the turbo gap onto the manifold thread the nut while you know bringing it down and tightening the turbo up so sometimes you gotta use a stud some people prefer all four stud I prefer to use all four bolts if it allows me to and then people seal the turbo to the flange itself several different ways I seen some people gunk up some height em RTV which I truly hate it does the job but it just looks really messy and unprofessional but please don't get offended because I said that I'm more of cleaning this and I don't like to have that goo just come right out of here and then there are two types of gasket that goes between the turbo and the flange one is made out of metal and the other one is made of I don't know what it's called but I put a little picture of it right here I don't like either or because sometimes when your bolt back out or the strip it leaves a gap where it burns out the gasket this one or the other one which causes exhaust leak my preference is to ensure that the flange itself is nice and true which you can put on a belt sander if you're buying it from a fabricator they they normally you know sand the surface down on both ends to ensure that it's nice and flat I pretty much bolt the turbo to the flange no gasket in between no RTV and it's worked out for me for over I would say eight years now so that's what I'm gonna do with this now when you go and do yours you do to way you prefer or whatever you think is best for your setup so now I'm gonna bolt my turbo up and we'll get this put into the car alright guys so we got the turbo semi bolted to the manifold and the wastegate bolted in place the manifold itself is not bolted to the head completely because I still have to take it out to do the down pipe and the dump too but I have it mocked up here because I want to make sure that I get the clearances for my dump tube going straight down right here and also to move on to the driver's-side charged pipe going to the turbo over there every manifold is different every waste gate is different but it is the same process of installing it into your car so once you have it in your car now you have the ability to clock your cartridge to allow ease of feed and return to your all pan now in my case because my down pipe is going to be coming this way and then my charge pipe coming from the back door over there on in cooler it's gonna be traveling this way I'm gonna have two pipes almost side by side and I got to find the most efficient way to run my return line right there to go all the way to my oil pan over there when you go turbo you're gonna have to tap your oil pan like a good mine right there I did this a few months ago when I put this motor in and it's capped off for when I go turbo I don't have to take it back off to reweld it now a lot of people have fast by putting a you know socket on it or or a tap or some but I know they work I just don't prefer that method but I prefer to have a dash ten on mine I'm gonna have to take an account where my down pipe is gonna be headed to and I'm gonna try to tuck mine as close to the block as possible since I am fabbing mine most kits if you guys buy online whether they're eBay or not they already come with down pipe designed to fit your engine so in your case you just bolt it on and then you pretty much about your return line and stuff but right now I'm just eyeballing mine because I don't have a dump I made just yet my cartridge is clocked a little bit where my return line is going to be at a certain angle and I think that is gonna be a straight shot in between the two pipe to get over to that pan right there I can't build my line fully yet because I don't have my flange the flange that I originally had for this turbo went into the h22 CRX so I'm gonna have to grab another one but I can roughly build one right now to show you guys how I'm gonna do mine as far as that goes now I'm a feed line it's sitting right there under the flange under the manifold with a lot of room back here now good thing is my feed line is a - three and it has a 90 on one end and straight on the other the 90 I'm going to be using on the turbo side because I want to ensure that my line is not gonna go up towards the manifold where it's hotter and on the back of the block I'm gonna be getting my feed from the oil pressure sensor this right here is steel do not get because they brake with vibration so this is going to go in place of the stock oil pressure sensor this piece right here has two outlets where you put the oil sending unit on one end and then the other side goes to the fitting that feeds your - three in line and that's where the source of oil for my turbo is going to be coming from alright guys I'm gonna give you one more update before I close the garage and continue this tomorrow you guys would be so surprised on how many things I have in the garage obviously you guys seen these box racer made racing submit racing submit racing and I mentioned earlier I didn't have a flange for the return line but after going through my bin right here I realized I had a bunch of fittings that I honestly forgot about inside here I have a lot of like - 10 straight I got some you know - 6 straights a lot of you know fill caps fill necks I got weld on bongs and stuff like that these box also have weld on buns and stuff for like catch cans valve covers and stuff but I had a return flange for a GT series turbo now GT series turbo is a lot smaller than your typical t3 and let me show you guys here really quickly so I don't know how much you guys can see this but this is a regular t3 journal bearing and then this is a GT series which is a ball bearing and you can see how much smaller how much narrow this return flange is opposed to the regular t3 it's like a good half an inch bigger and in my box I just so happen to have a GT series flange and the gasket right here so right here we have the return flange bolted up to the turbo right we have this coupler with a straight tubing on it to kind of mimic where my intercooler piping is gonna be going as far as the driver side over here I'm not gonna cover that part because in your cases it may be a direct fitment or you guys gonna be routing a whole different way this side really just depends on your turbo manifold and you'll figure it out once you get to installing you know this portion of your turbo kit so before I wrap it up tonight I'm going to show you guys what I'm gonna do as far as my return line goes now I have a bunch of straight and a bunch of 45 but I don't have a 90 and this dis return line right here that I had sitting around has a 90 on it so I may have to rob it so how I'm gonna be running my return line is pretty much what the turbo clocked in the way you see it right here it's not straight up and down is maybe a few degrees backward but gravity pulls as long as you don't have your cartridge like you know horizontal the flow should be efficient so my 90s gonna be coming off right here this tubing is gonna mimic kind of where my charge pipe is gonna go so I'm gonna make sure I clear that and then it's gonna loop around kind of like how you see right now right except I'm gonna shorten it and then it's gonna be either a 45 sorry is either gonna be a 45 into the pan like so but I also got a calculate that the gal pipe is gonna be making a a big u right here and I might just bend it down a little bit more and just do a straight shot into the oil pan so I'm gonna build my line real quick kind of figure out if I need a 45 or straight got my return line figure it out it's not fully screwed in because the turbo and manifold still has to come back out so I could put it up on the mock motor to do the down pipe and dump tube I ended up using a 45 and a 45 to the pan which has a really long loop but it is downhill so I'm not worried about it roller coastering back up when it's supposed to be gravity fed to the pan to make it efficient but I had to do it this way because that charge pipe is gonna you know 45 up then 90 into the charge pipe because I can't turn this down anymore due to my radiator support so it's gonna have like a weird curve and then it's going to curve 90 in and then how to leave all of this cleared out for the down pipe to you down and then under the pan so that's done all right everybody so I'm not sure where we left off but I think the last clip was of the downpipe and that was two days ago so in most cases your turbo kit should already have a down pipe made for your set up and it should just boat directly on there and your charge pipe if you bought a premade kit it should again go right into place now because mine is all custom I had to make my down pipe and flex pipe I'll take underneath the car here I had to make my custom down pipe because my car is four-wheel drive so I got to clear the transfer case right there and it's currently connected to the exhaust so that's out of the way so I had to make a custom charge pipe for the driver's side because of how tight the engine bay is and the way I positioned my turbo so this I just finished about 10 minutes ago so it goes from the turbo it goes about 10 degrees up and then it shoots at an angle to this 90 degree pi cut that I did which then goes to the back door in the cooler other side up into the intake manifold my wastegate is a ginormous 44 millimeter I had nowhere to point this dump to down here because of my return line charge pipe down pipe all crammed up in this corner so I just made it a straight 90 and shoot down there between the frame rail and traction bar arm that's not touching anything so hopefully that's not gonna you know vibrate and break feline is ran return line I'm gonna build water line when I get all the fittings in but right now we can turn it on without it it's a-okay now my waste kid has two lines going to it because I am running in Mac's solenoid I'm not gonna get too technical with this because this comes down to what you want to do as far as your boost controller your engine management goes and because I'm running a four port this is set up for boost by gear one line goes to the bottle one line goes to the top and then one goes to vacuum source my harness is not hooked up because I'm not gonna be boosting anytime soon until we get to the dyno it's just loosely sitting in there right now but typically for yours just one one vacuum port to your waste gate and leave it at that and decide if you want to run a boost controller if you want to turn it up if you're not sad as with your power at the dyno everything is t-bolt clamped down all around nice and firm all the beads on the piping is sticking out to ensure that we're not gonna be blowing off any couplers here got my vacuum line ran for the blower valve which goes to an extra port I have in the back right here my boost controller is feeding off at this guy right here as well - but for the most part guys the turbo kit is fully installed all of the main components part aining - a turbo installation has been installed now depending on what engine management you run I'm using Hahn data don't want to get too technical with that either but Hahn data has a list of basemap you can pick and choose upload it to you ECU and then make adjustments per injector size if you're running chrome you can buy basemap chips from like zero cron for an example or fair to bolt net you guys can tell them what your setup is what injectors you're running they would burn you a base map to get your car to turn on check for leaks and all that get it to the dyno but I must advise you if you aren't a tuner or not familiar with tuning parameters don't go smashing around especially if you got bigger injectors in stock especially if you have a non stock ECU you could damage a lot of things in my case I'm gonna be running for fifty CC injectors but I'm not gonna install those now until we are ready to go to the dyno I have the stock injectors in I have to start ECU I'm gonna turn the car on you can technically run the turbo with the stock setup as long as you're not getting into boost no matter how tempted you are or how nice it sounds do not go into boost with a stock ECU and stock injector now I'm just gonna turn the car on I have not turned it on just yet I want to make sure we aren't leaking at the feed line the feed source from the back of the block the oil return line and then the return line to the pans let's hear what it sounds like gotta make sure my drip pan is underneath the car [Music] [Music] and there it is guys car fired over no problems whatsoever I don't see any visible leaks I mean the real test is when I really drive the car but idling for about five minutes now the car doesn't show any leaks anywhere as far as the pan the feed line the backdoor block goes that's good the car sounds good as well too although it's still warming up the downpipe tab seems to work out great because we don't have any leaks up in the front especially cuz I'm not running a gasket but that's pretty much it guys that is how I Terrebonne my Honda and I hope I covered everything for you guys to do the exact same when it comes to your car that you're trying to turbo so if you guys got any questions leave it in the comments below and if you guys enjoyed this turbo installation please hit the like button if you guys want to stick around for the dyno session definitely hit the subscribe button I'm super stoked I hope you guys are too so with that being said we are gonna wrap it right here thank you guys for watching and see you guys a nice video peace [Music]

Channel: YoungStatic

Views: 105,795

Rating: 4.9472694 out of 5

Keywords: honda, acura, integra, civic, crx, shuttle, civic wagon, rt4wd, clm motorsports, awd, all wheel drive, 4wd, 4 wheel drive, young static, motionautotv, boostedboiz, pfispeed, cleetus mcfarland, twin turbski, adam lz, the hoonigans, zosh, maruader, might car mods, diy, jdm, drift, s13, s14, awd crx, 4bangersproductions, ej1, ej2, ej6, eg9, turbocharged, boost, boosted, how to, turbo

Id: qrWTjifMsFk

Length: 27min 39sec (1659 seconds)

Published: Mon Feb 18 2019