HOW TO; VTEC CONVERSION : B18B W/ B16 HEAD (A-Z)

what is going on you guys welcome back to the channel if you guys have seen the last video we worked on what keems car we got a lot done to his front wheel drive eg and we're getting that car ready for the track this upcoming 25th of april as well as that car now today i was gonna work on the suspension on this car and uh you know get this thing ready for um track next weekend this upcoming weekend i'm actually bringing this car back to the dyno but um today i'm gonna focus on my engine that we're gonna be putting in the new car the flipper x i guess we can call it the flipper x because we're flipping it in yesterday's video you guys should have seen that i went to the machine shop to pick up my cylinder head which is right here it's resurfaced it's got a new valve seal and today we finally got our other package right here this this is the timing belt water pump the gaskets and everything i need to put that together with the block that we just re-buried i'm gonna pull everything out real quick guys kind of talk about it and what to expect in this video and then we're gonna get down to work please excuse the miley cyrus but guys so in this box right here we got an all pan gasket we got a rear main seal i have a front main seal this is the valve cover gasket and over here on the table this is what we're going to be using right now we'll get to that later right here we got uh the gates timing belt this is a gsr kit so gsr tensioner gsr time belt gsr water pump i use the gsr water pump kit because the gsr gear is bigger and what it does is it spins lesser spins slower than the ls which is a smaller gear which if it spins too fast it can cause like air bubble you know if you go in a swimming pool you spin too fast it's going to cause a lot of air bubbles and turbulence i guess in the cooling system if that makes any sense so the gsr bigger gear and i typically use gsr belt for um lsv and b20 vtec conversion i've been using ls uh time belt before but i've always had more slack than i wanted but we have the arp head studs right here uh this is for the ls vtec b20 vtec conversion which is the same as type r which is the same as b and c one thank you troy troy sent this in a while ago and uh he was like yeah you know i only have one torque down and uh he upgraded to the l19s on his setup right here we have os sandwich uh vtec conversion kit and uh it's funny because somebody actually commented and asked me like what vtec conversion kit do you recommend i always use ge blocks and i've never had any issues with them but today we're gonna try some literally made in china some some chinese 25 kit i got off ebay and we're gonna open it up we're gonna um see how everything is i already tapped the head i tapped the head with it that went well but as far as the dial pin the sandwich adapter the lines itself we'll get into it when we get to that portion my camera is occupied right now so i'm using my phone but before i send this head to the machine shop i'm going to plug up this hole right here it is required when you do a lsv or b20 vt conversion because we're going to be feeding oil through a different port here and this actually overlays the block where it doesn't fully cover so oil actually scorched out of there so i got my kit in today just showed up like 10 minutes ago it's an ebay kit but it's got all the fittings i need to do this so i'm just going to show you guys real quick so i just used the drill bit don't know what size it is uh just it was in my you know my little drill bit box but i drilled the hole out and then i am tapping it with uh 1 8. i don't remember i'll put it on the screen gotta make sure it's nice and straight tap it all the way in take it back out use the air to blow out the hole so that there's no metal debris inside of it and then then we'll get to the plug right now i'm about halfway down and it's a little hard to do with you know without the correct tool because i broke up the handle but i mean it's going so i always use teflon on the plug i've used rtv before and it still leaked through and use it raw still leaked through teflon is a great way to seal it so i'm gonna go ahead and just get this like flush to the head if not a little bit deeper it's gonna go resurface anyways and uh it'll get shaved down if it's stuck out a little bit past the surface so go ahead and get that nice and flush try and get a little bit more that that is ready to go to the machine shop we have a phil prohead gasket i've used fail pro many times before never had an issue but what i'm going to be doing with this head gasket is i'm going to copper spray the bottom side of it now knock used to be my engine builder and knock always recommended to copper spray the bottom and not the top because it's easier to clean the block than to clean the head i think but it's the same material i don't see why it'll be different to clean it but the reason why i'm using copper sprays because the lady at the freaking um picking pole when i bought this engine this is a pickable motor she marked the freaking like thing right here and uh i had to like find a way to get this freaking paint marker off and i kind of scratched up the surface a little bit so with the copper spray it'll fill it in if it's really bad it's not really bad but this is one of those extra precautionary thing so i'm gonna copy spray the bottom and like i said in this video we're gonna be doing the head onto the block all the timing stuff time it probably do the valve lash talk about the vtec conversion kit and pretty much get this engine ready to go into this car i'm going to start off with wearing some gloves i'm starting off with the head studs and i just want to explain to you guys real quick that these holes for the studs or the head bolts need to be clear of fluid now i'm going to go ahead and install these studs they already have lubricant arp lube on it so i'm just going to go ahead and drop these in one by one look how smooth that goes down studs are in now i got to get the dial pins for the alice v-tec b20 vtec conversion and i hope this one came with it yes they did right there so these vtec conversion dow pins are stepped they are tapered on one side these down pin come step because of the difference between the diameter of the hole of you know the cylinder head to the block so i believe um the smaller end goes in the block okay well that's freaking trash right off the bat it doesn't even freaking fit what the f so this vtec conversion kit already has a thumbs down from me at least on the dial pin part so i went through my other box of my other engine that came out of my crx i was looking for dowel pins on here um they were using stock dial pins because i'm just realizing now that my last engine was a full gsr spot full gsr swap b16 tire bars don't require step dowel pins so what i ended up doing was i took the dial pin and i took my harbor freight step drill bit this one to be specific the second and last one and i hugged the hole out that's what i did i hogged the hole out and then and then i was able to get it to slide over the stud and tap into the block now it's a really tight fit but it works so i'm about to hog out this other one right here uh the only issue is trying to hold it from spinning and when i did it with the vice grip it actually kind of squished it a little bit so kind of you know made it all nice and straight again and then you know kind of hogged out enough that it kind of just you know with a little force it goes down into the stud without messing up the threads so this one is ready to go i'm going to do this one real quick and then we'll move on to the head gasket all right fel pro head gasket this is what we're using now my cars i use je pro seals for simple setups like these fail pro works perfectly fine we've made up to about 400 with this 450 joakim has pushed it more and he doesn't have any issues part number for this uh 9698 pt and uh i'm gonna go ahead and just pull this out real quick we have to modify the head gasket let me explain aftermarket head gaskets like j pro seal chromatic blocks has head gaskets now skunk two apparently does too but uh the specific lsv b20 vtec head gaskets they already come modified um as far as the holes for the dial pin goes and um you can just you know slap the head gasket on and torque the head down call it a day now if you're using fail pro obviously fel pro is not like performance they don't come for engines like the ls vtec b20 vtec so let me show you guys real quick the modification part we have to do to the head gasket to make this work with the setup so up right there we got this little mark that fits right here right i'm gonna go ahead and just bring this down real quick you can see the dial pin does not fit the hole what we have to do is we have to enlarge the hole by a smidge just really lightly to fit over the dowel pin and um we're going to do that real quick with again my step drill bit and if you guys don't want to mangle the head gasket because if you guys catch it the wrong way trying to drill out the hole it's going to pretty much destroy the layers of head gasket because it's so thin so to avoid that you take your step drill bit and you put it in your press so you can use two hands to uh drill out the hole instead of trying to do with one and then potentially destroying your head gasket so i'm gonna set it up real quick you gotta go very slowly and just tap it don't force it there are three layers to this and i am cutting it one at a time i mean as far as the step on the drill bit goes and i'm gonna double check it to make sure that it fits and if it doesn't we'll go back and do it again not quite there almost but not quite there perfect now to do the other side so i got the head gasket cleaned up i got it kind of deburred a little bit and i'm about to put some copper spray on here i'm probably gonna do two light coats nothing crazy and i'm just gonna do only the bottom side [Applause] so i'm cleaning up the surface cleaning up the surface cleaning up the surface make sure your surface is clear of debris oil liquid fluid whatever cat hair in this case lsv b20v make sure your little oil port right here is plugged because like i've mentioned earlier i think i did the uh hole right here kind of sits over like it hangs off the block right here and if you don't plug it it's gonna leak oil all over the back of your block so make sure it's plugged clean your cylinder head i'm going to wipe it down one more time and then i'm going to get this installed onto the block hopefully the lighting isn't too bad but now let's marry the two together yes yes sir cylinder head is pretty dirty god dang it next step from here since the cylinder head is now sitting on the block we got to put the washer and the nut for the arp head stud now you guys probably saw i didn't put lubrication on the stud itself what i actually do is i put the um the grease inside the nut and then thread it down so as it's going down it's lubricating the stud as it goes if i put it beforehand you know put the head gasket down the cylinder head could sweep you know the sealant off the threads and you know put grease in between the head gasket and stuff so i want to avoid that and uh there are 10 washers and 10 nuts people always give me crap about my pinky nail but uh this is how i put the washers on the stud you see you see you see so the arp nuts are half inch 12 point and uh i have it right here so what i do is i put the nut in the socket and pretty much just drive it down thread it in onto the next so i took the extension off because it could throw off the reading of the torque wrench and i'm doing this in three steps 25 55 80 82 somewhere in there 82 got in now i did get the val seal swapped out at the shop and uh my old ones they are right here weren't too bad but doesn't hurt to change them out so it's important to make sure all my retainers are in place because you know some machine shops work so quickly that might might not even be all the way in sometimes ask me how i know ask me how i know now the lmas i believe these are hydraulic they need oil to work properly otherwise you'd be ticking all crazy and because this thing was cleaned or i mean somewhat cleaned i'm gonna go ahead and just dunk some oil in there okay i'm gonna put some oil on the journal lubricate this a little bit so the next thing from the cylinder head is the cams and all the can caps um i cheap out on some stuff some stuff like i didn't really cheap out on some stuff i just forgot to buy it seals right here i'm pretty much just using rtv i've always done this never had a leak issue whatsoever make sure your cam shafts are clear of lint uh debris and stuff like that on the lobes itself i sacrificed one on my sf shirt because i've gotten too fat for it and cleaning this all nice and um pretty so the distributor side has a little slasher here this is the intake cam this is the exhaust cam without the slit and pretty much it's pretty simple oh yeah just like that just like that now i didn't explain this earlier i didn't i don't know if i even showed the piston but this piston cylinder one is actually about a quarter way down the cylinder why because we're gonna be messing with this the valve's gonna open and close and we don't want it to tap the piston as if it was tdc the pistons pushed down a little bit we're gonna adjust this accordingly and then we'll bring the piston up to tdc and then we'll do the timing make sure the cams are sitting in their ideal spots so that way the caps will go on easily you can see the seals not all the way in so i use the flathead simple enough push it all the way in right make sure it's nice and flush still going to move because we got to put the cap on that covers that i believe this head came with cam cap and seal which is this sucker right here blocks now this is triple o-ring not sure why they put rtv in it but uh i'm gonna clean it up and just re-rtv it because i mean somebody already done it before so why not right gotta make sure this is nice and clean now i did clean this as much as i could without removing the o-ring because i'm i'm not trying to rip it right so i just dab some rtv right in the middle the third o-ring and i mean this should seal perfectly fine a little extra rtv doesn't hurt right put that nice and centered even though you won't see it anyways because the v-tech solenoid's gonna be in the way clean this off a little bit i forgot oil on the cams so that way they have some lubrication when we're moving them around and before startup now i did forget to show you guys this very important dowel pin this little guy right here is for the vtec orifice right there's a little o-ring right there this little dowel pin goes right in the middle like that now we're ready for the caps you want to know the honest truth i don't even torque these down they're so light in the torque spec that i just do it by hand so i just snug fit them right snug snug snug now if you want the torque specs like to do it the right way throw it on the screen right here never over torque these little 10 mils because these are so easy to snap very easy to snap ask me how i know got the upper water neck rtv got the vtec solenoid all cleaned up now i don't remember what happened to the top solenoid but i have another one from an ov0 that i have to um rewire for ob1 clip but we got this the gasket the screen all cleaned reinstalled we got the coolant temp we got the uh h2o coolant temp well we got these two sensors put back on and um i just took off tensioner water pump because we're gonna be putting all new ones on here i took off this little crank uh sensors and stuff down here for the ob2 engine we don't need it so i just kind of do it in trash get that out of the way uh these are all oem honda stuff but we're going to be changing it this should be a low mileage block because it's a jdm b18b and um you know the the integra that i pulled it from it was automatic and it was like a hundred and forty something thousand miles now i'm sure why they even swap the block with the original block but hopefully this engine engine look it's good we're using this kit right here i got from um rock auto that's the part number this is a gsr time belt water pump kit comes with a belt a new tensioner the water pump right here in this giant tray i don't know why we got this we got the seal or where's the seal the seal's right there inside and a new tensioner spring so i'm gonna go ahead and just slap this on guys pretty straightforward um the way the original one came off it's the same way the new one goes on but the gasket might have some rtv just in case and not sure what's going on here right out of the box the thing is nothing is chopped but that's why i use rtv sometimes to fill in that gap this sits on the little tab right here sticking out of the block and then we have a little spring that goes up here like so now the last part of this is the timing belt gates timing belt i've always run the gates it's kind of hard to do this with freaking one hand but we make it work so i'm going to do the cam gears first pretty straightforward you got to make sure the arrow is pointing up and then we have this little slit right here on one of the teeth and we line that up to the flatness of the cylinder head where the valve cover gasket sits right here so it looks like i need to go down about half a tooth which isn't much somewhere there same thing on the other side this one's actually almost there already simplest way like right in the center both teeth have the slashes lined up perfect the valve should be closed there i don't know why i had the belt on there but now we can bring the piston to the top and it's not going to smack the valves and if you don't have the cover there is a slit on the gear itself right here at the bottom which you lined up with a little arrow on the oil pump so i'm probably about a tooth and a half off bringing the piston up here to tdc somewhere right there give or take so i know some people do timing a little different than the way i'm going to show you guys but i'm going to do it the way that i've always done it and has always worked so um pretty simple put the timing belt into the bottom gear loop over the tensioner over the water pump now i am going to be doing the belt onto the cam gear on the exhaust side first and if you have these on tdc the belt should literally slide right into the cam gear teeth so this one is on and then i'm going to bring it over to the intake side this should also slide right on make sure your tensioner is loose so you can pull it up right slide it all the way in make sure the exhaust side is tightened tensioned you're going to have a little slack on the top right here so what i do is i turn the intake cam to snug up the top of the belt a little bit right tension i take a flat head to the tensioner this little tab on the bottom right here right obviously without the timing cover and engine not in the car but i put it here and i pull the tensioner up and that's what's going to tighten the belt on this end you can see it move right now when i do this you see that so i'm attention accordingly and then tighten down the 14 on tension to lock it in place not too loose not too tight lock it in tied it up there you go done so before i put the timing cover back on i am going to be putting in the post mount this came with the car which is a d a if you're putting a b swap into an ef you have to use the 1993 acura integra post mount the post mount is the mount before the motor mount that goes onto the block sits behind the time cover i'm not going to be using this mount but i want to put this on real quick and then the timing cover goes on to cover all this up to avoid rocks and stuff getting stuck inside so we got the cylinder head installed all the dll attachments on the side installed timing belt side is all done timed i'm going to do a valve lash a little bit later but right now i want to get into the ebay vtec conversion kit this kit was 25 came with all of the fittings and everything for the old sandwich adapter to block off for it and use it for an oil feed system and we have a line right here as well as this little plug in case you're not using any of the um the ports right here on the sandwich itself i didn't use one of this on the sony head to plug up the hole and i actually want to show you guys that real quick so i don't know if you can see it see a little black spot right there in the corner if you don't plug up that hole that's where oil is going to be leaking from now now we get this installed and uh see how everything actually fits so first thing i'm gonna do i'm gonna remove this brass uh fitting into the head because that's where we're gonna be feeding the new oil for the cylinder head for the vtec solenoid and all that and uh we're going to be installing i don't know one of these fittings 5 16. go ahead and use the big bore wrench not big boy but uh half inch since my socket is 3 8. oh okay not too shabby so the fitting for the head is the one i'm holding right here same thread pitch and i screwed it on before the teflon and it goes through now you see i don't have the teflon all the way because this thing is not gonna go in all the way it's gonna it's gonna eventually stop so i'm using teflon on the threads and then i'm gonna tighten this down it's like a 90 ml ish something like that i don't know but we're going to tighten this down you don't want to over tighten this aluminum aluminum strips pretty easy so the teflon's going to do its job i'm just going to tug on it a few here so the inlet feed to the cylinder head is the dash six the line is also a dash six and from the oil sandwich adapter is a dash six but it's got this giant like um eight or ten or something like that normally this is o-ring but there's no o-ring so i just tap on it i'm gonna go ahead and screw this in get that all tightened up so i got the old sandwich on here and i got a position where i need the fittings to be pointing i'm not going to lie to you the fitting for this feed line to the cylinder head is ugly as hell but as long as it does its job it's whatever so nothing crazy with the intake manifold here we have a b16 a2 um 99 2000 um si intake manifold with a thought of body a stock b series dotted body i did throw it i did put a new gasket right there you can see the thought of body is still loose i gotta tighten that up just washed it real quick went to the junkyard and snagged a dc fuel rail we're gonna be converting this to a dash six because that's what we're gonna be running on the car uh the only thing about this intake manifold is uh obd2 the intake air temp the iat sensor is on the intake itself and we're using in the car that a harness is not wired to be over here we have to drill and tap this for an iat sensor right there because that's typically where it goes obviously that flying just sitting right there um other than that we just need injectors we can bolt this guy up find a fuel pressure regulator it actually sits like this and then get this sucker installed there so um iit sensor i'm pretty sure i sent it in here yes got it right there pretty old looking i think i have another one i sure do probably use the black one it's a little cleaner yes sir tapped it with this right here uh i don't know what size that is you got it raced off right there need one more one more tell me i got one more in here yes sir yes sir yes sir goes on like this b16a2 intake manifold here we go yes sir what are you what is you uh we don't need you but yes sir now let's find all the hardware dang this thing's looking good where do we leave off guys so i think what we did was bolted up the intake manifold and i found an idler control valve right there installed um got the hose hooked up right here um with it all the bolts right here for this guy so we don't lose them all and um not not sure what else we did but uh we got the vtec solenoid top half installed converted over to the obd1 style plug instead of the obd0 um and that is done ready for some vtec cracking but the last thing i'm gonna do for this video guys is the valve lash it's pretty straightforward pretty simple i normally do when the head comes back from the machine shop i go six and i make sure seven doesn't go in so i put it at the lowest setting possible and then for the exhaust side it's between seven and eight so i'm gonna go seven and make sure eight doesn't go in to know that i am at the lowest setting so i'm gonna show you guys one and i'm just gonna go ahead and knock them all out in the order that the manual says you gotta do in one rotate 90 degrees on the cam um counter and then you got to do three rotate again 90 degrees do four rotate again and then you got to do number two that is the firing order that uh this engine runs in and that's the way you're supposed to do your valve flash as far as the order goes so i'm gonna go ahead and do the first one for y'all so i'm gonna try it on number six right now and guess what dummy tight that is super tight valve lash tool go ahead and loosen that up gopro just body slammed itself risers are out loosen up the locking nut then two loose that's a very snug six so i'm gonna do snug six tied it up check it again six is snug you gotta make sure seven doesn't go in so that way we know that it's on the lowest setting so seven doesn't go in we're good there move on to the next one before i loosen it up i'm gonna check it first six does not go in loosen it up snug on the six now is okay if seven goes in because that's still within specification so that's a snug six here's a seven seven does not go in double check again with six six slides in perfect now go to the exhaust side before i loosen it up i'm gonna double check it i want this one to be on seven lower setting seven seven slides in well check eight and eight barely goes in i'm gonna leave that one alone check the other one seven goes in eight is snug and i don't have to touch that side so that's pretty much valve lash i mean that's how i do it at least and uh yeah now we're gonna rotate this with the crank counter 90 degrees so the up is going to be facing right here and then we'll do three so on and so forth the target of this video was to uh pretty much show you guys the engine like assembly head to the block and the oil vtec conversion kit uh just to answer some of the questions for the oil vitae conversion i use golden ego and use blocks over the years but i've never used an ebay one today we use an ebay one and out of the whole kit only the dial pin was a pain in the booty hole now you can save some cash and get the vtec conversion from ebay like the one that i got and uh get some doll pins from like golden eagle or something they're not expensive and it'll save you a ton of money opposed to buying a full kit from a different company don't get me wrong they're quality company and they've been around for a very long time but for this setup we just went with the 25 one and we made everything work so guys i hope you enjoyed this video we are going to cut the video right here because i got some other things i got to take care of and i'm going to start planning out what i need to do with that car before we get it to the dyno and back to the track next week joaquim is here we're going to be working on his spindles and get that all ready you guys probably seen that in the other video um before this one but before we close this video out i want to give a big shout out to all the people involved with this freaking package guys we finally have a brand new k-pro for the wagon big big shout out to nick from also sick media uh we kind of linked up a while back about going to a show out in bakersfield which was actually cancelled due to covid so we didn't get to um you know make it out there they wanted me up in the hondata booth which i was so down for but like i said the unfortunate covet that we the event was cancelled and then he was like hey we'll still hook you up with some k-pro stuff and uh you know just send us an email so i sent in an email and uh what actually had happened was i didn't really hear anything back so at this point big shout out to jeremy from red zone hawaii he is my tuner my good friend and uh he hooked me up with um you know the hondata he linked me up with his account to uh help me get one for my car and then while i sent all of this stuff into honda in socal they emailed me back and said hey we love your content you know stay posted stay doing what you love to do stay kicking out these videos we want to we want to hook you up with on data so with all of the back and forth you know with jeremy with uh nick with honda thank all you guys for helping me um get the hondata k pro for my car if you guys looking for hondata man you can try to hit up on data directly because um they do have a forum on their website you fill in and you send out which is what i did um things like that but uh k pro hondata s300 i run them in all of my cars sorry for pointing at this one but i run it in all of my cars and they are a great company with a great product and they've been proven throughout the years so if you guys are looking for engine management for your car link will be in the description below guys i'm gonna program this right here register it all that good jazz so we can start driving the wagon again that's gonna wrap it up for this video guys if you enjoyed this one be sure to leave a thumbs up and if you guys want to stick around for the dino video of that car be sure to hit the subscribe button but with that being said thank you guys for watching i'll see you guys in the next video peace you

Channel: YoungStatic

Views: 43,631

Rating: 4.978055 out of 5

Keywords: hondarona virus, honda, acura, integra, civic, crx, shuttle, civic wagon, rt4wd, clm motorsports, awd, all wheel drive, 4wd, 4 wheel drive, young static, motionautotv, boostedboiz, pfispeed, cleetus mcfarland, twin turbski, adam lz, the hoonigans, zosh, maruader, might car mods, diy, jdm, drift, s13, s14, awd crx, 4bangersproductions, ej1, ej2, ej6, eg9, tj hunt, tanner fox, crv, redzonerace, redzonetuned, redzonehawaii

Id: ih6wVXYpFJ8

Length: 36min 47sec (2207 seconds)

Published: Wed Apr 21 2021