How to Tile Your Bathroom Floor | DIY Tutorial

well in this video today we are going to show you four different videos of tile installation that's different kinds of tile and different kind of substrates whoo there's a lot to learn so this is gonna be like a crash course for how to tile your bathroom so today we're gonna talk bathroom floor tile and it's interesting because there are a lot of different standards out there and a lot of different products as far as the substrate of your bathroom floor and on top of that the world is complicated with a lot of different kind of waterproofing systems and heated flooring systems and different sizes of style different design at layouts whoo where do you begin you begin with understanding the basics so that you know what kind of project you want to tackle so this floor right here this is a plywood and this movie called the rec barn this tile is actually cemented right to the cut to the the plywood all right and that's the most typical kind of installation you're gonna find out there a new home construction the other kind that you're gonna see is a direct bond on concrete a lot of that is in basements we're going to show you a different kind of membrane system that you can put on it's a crack isolation membrane so we have that one of our videos we have large tile we have herringbone we have waterproofing systems heated floor systems we also cover different techniques when it comes to using floor leveler so when you're using these tiles of different sizes large and small and eliminates the need to back butter so you can work nice and clean and get a great result so stay tuned there's a lot to cover like I say this is the basics so once you understand all the basics of the different substrates and how to apply all the tile then you can start to navigate how you want to design your room understanding your ability and the scope that you want to get involved with stay tuned [Music] now the tire we've chosen is a 18 by 18 rectified porcelain and what that means is that it doesn't expand and contract with temperature variations so it allows us to have almost zero ground line so we get to install this a lot like marble so we've got us three different colors I've rectified porcelain they're all eighteen by eighteen s and we've taken it over to the stonecutter here in Ottawa and what they do is they cut down everything to dimensions and this is going to be the pattern throughout the floor because we have our pattern on the floor here it's it's alright it's a set pattern there's not a whole lot to this we simply take up pieces when we showed you before we had them all cut so really now is we're going to measure everything out we're hoping that this part of the room here is relatively square because this will be the one per the room where that we won't have any furniture so we're gonna determine that first we're going to drop some chalk lines and see how we're doing after that we'll measure off wall to wall and see where the pattern ends so the pattern is 22 and a half inches we're gonna have a tough in front of the windows so it would make more sense to make sure that this part of the floor had the pattern held true so we don't have any cut-offs underneath the trim here and that'll be a half tile so that'll be nice let's see we got going on here same thing so coming from this direction over there again we've got toilet and vanity so when we hit to that wall it'll be a half pattern which would be nice and that'll work for us I haven't run into a house yet that head square walls relatively speaking and part of the challenge is because even if you make a square wall every time you do an outside corner the corners aren't square anymore because they add metal corners the add drywall mud and so there's always a swooping effect on the corners in most houses but that only accounts for up to an eighth to a quarter inch so that's why we're gonna set a half inch off the wall trims are three quarters so that will take care of all those variances okay heading that way no more people way if you want stop okay yeah so we're opening up a little bit it looks like Walt has a Boeing it moves back exactly so this balls boat so we'll go off that one so we'll just use it whenever a cement we got here no this is we're planning ahead comes in believe it or not we start right here nice and gentle [Music] obviously the floor level is working really well [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right so we're gonna install a six inch by 36 inch floor tile today this is a porcelain tile but it's not a rectified tile which means that there is a bad warp in the floor now this stone because it comes baked on an assembly line it has a little bit of a curve to it so it has restrictions as far as what the installation design can be generally speaking we go with a 1/3 off set rule so one tile finish to here the next one will start no more than the 1/3 of the tile up and this keeps the the curve bumps a little closer together so there's not an exaggerated dip distance in the height of the stone once it's installed so what we have to do is when you're considering the layout on a floor you have to think when you come through the bathroom door what's the first thing you're going to see and in this room it's right here in this corner this is gonna be sexy beautiful shower custom glass and this right here is what you're gonna see so what we want to do is we want to have this tile coming right off here okay and coming right to the front door we don't want to have an ugly cut so we don't start on the no side wall now traditionally it's a little more difficult to start in the middle of the room but the benefits are dramatic we're gonna have a vanity over there cut tiles are hidden underneath over on this side it's away from the action okay so it doesn't only matter if we have a cut tile along the side of the wall and if I was to measure this out I might find that it's exactly the right size to go from wall to wall without cutting them but at the end of the day that might leave me with a piece of tile right here and that's not what you want to do so rule number one the first thing you see that's got to be sexy everything else just has to be cut to fit so what we're gonna do is use a chalk line and I'll pass that to my assistant yeah he wants to pull that out while I'm playing with my chalk make sure it's on the string we're gonna put this chalk line right to the back corner of the shower pan I'm about an eighth of an inch off and then I'm just gonna direct him this way a little bit a little more and stop snap and that is gonna be the edge of my tile because what we're gonna do is we're going to start up the corner and then we're going to fill this side and then work towards the door as we fill up both sides offer this line so this is important that this never gets rubbed off or covered in cement because this will keep everything nice and straight so if you walk in the door the line as straight as an arrow right up the side of the shower just the way you want it one of the keys here is when we're doing a third offset and you have a four foot long shower base or something else like that that's in your line of sight when you come in the room is you want to try to set this up so that you don't have the tile finishing an inch shy of the shower base that would look stupid so we're gonna do is we're gonna set this up where this tile is one foot off off the shower okay so we'll get that established and then we've cut a few tiles in advance knowing you were gonna go one-third offset this one's cut up two feet it will start right next to it and then we'll do a full tile off of that and so then this becomes our pattern where it's perfectly laid out one-third offset and that's gonna be beautiful and now visually I'm not concerned about what the dimensions are behind the toilet again that's out of the line of sight it's not an issue I'll probably have a tile come down here yeah this next tile will come with three inches from the wall we'll cut a three inch piece it's behind the toilet no one's ever gonna see it anyway okay so in this environment we're going with a very economical approach we've saved the subfloor it is 5/8 that's what we need a 5/8 initial floor with 5/8 added on top plywood gives us our inch and a quarter which is what code is for putting tile down we've added a few screws just to make sure that everything is nice and tight and there's a little bit of residue of the last tile floor here so what we're gonna do is we're gonna use a large-format cement this is a special product and we're gonna put it down over top of this and what's fun we're gonna apply the cement and one direction on the floor one second I don't lay down okay so you're going one direction on the floor and everybody's heard of back buttering but what we're gonna do is a little bit more extreme we're gonna actually use the notch trowel on the tile itself and we're gonna do a back cutter that's a little noisy in there we're gonna do back butter with the bruise go in the opposite direction now these mortar bed lines will intersect and that'll actually sit nice and high off the floor and make it very easy for us to level this floor up now we're just gonna set it in gentle again one of the rules of tiling is you want about a 90% adhesion on the stone when you do it this way you're guaranteed that even with the bit of the warp and the stone I'm gonna just guess about 12 inches mmm I was in eighth of an inch off Frank shame here we go so you'll notice that when I put the towel down I didn't add a lot of force and that's because remember we talked about the worst there's always gonna be about a sixteenth of an inch coming and going rolling almost like an ocean wave so if I use too much force but the first couple of tiles I might be pushing down the wrong side of the low part of the tile and creating an extra kick hazard so what we're gonna do is we're gonna get the first few of them in and then we're going to add some pressure once we've got the overall pattern established and we know where the high and low points are will add some spacers generally don't use those anymore but for the purpose of a how-to video I think it's good people are disciplined to use them helps guarantee your lines are straight and gets you a better look overall that's the one alright so in conclusion in order to put in this long rectangular tile you want to use the spacers watch your pressure make sure you get your measurements and your cuts done take your time use the proper amount of cement if you don't cut any corners and you take it slow you'll get a beautiful result and if you try to rush through this kind of floor installation you'll end up with a disaster on your hands and you'll be calling me to come and fix it so for more tips and tricks on how to run a beat your home make sure you subscribe to our Channel and Ottawa design and build you're on YouTube it's titled a welcome back to the basement job we are taking a look at finishing all the flooring that's not getting laminate and it's not on a subfloor system so because we have our subfloor system that you've probably seen previously what we're doing here is we are recreating the same tile floor that's upstairs and we're bringing it down here so that we have a nice constant flow through the house you see the same flooring patterns emerging over and over again it gives you the feeling that everything was pre thought right is very intentional they didn't just go to the store and find something and slap it in the basement so now this becomes an extension of the upstairs but what we do have is a different in elevation because we have subfloor and then on concrete so what we've done is prepared this concrete in advance we use the Eco prime grip from map high and that's a brilliant little product basically what we have is raw concrete that hasn't been painted except when they prime the basement originally they use a spray machine so there's spray powder everywhere and that is going to interfere with our adhesion with our cement so what what I did is I use the Eco prime grip and then I've used the protego this is an uncoupling membrane this is not a Detra product this is red not Orange so don't have to adjust the color on your screen this one is what you know the world would call a knockoff it hasn't been tested to the same degree for working in areas with deflection and that sort of thing but for me I'm comfortable saving a couple hundred bucks using this here it's on concrete and when you're building on concrete all you're really looking for is the elevation I don't need a whole lot of performance from this product and so I'm more than confident that it's gonna work just fine so we prime it we put down the underlayment now we're ready to tile we did this yesterday I don't like the tile right away because I seem that dent the cement as is drying so that today what we have to do now is we have to measure the set we got to map this out you can't just start a project in the fire corner and go left to right and fill it all in you need to think ahead where are my grout lines gonna be what's the pattern I'm using and where it is the square versus non square walls in the home remember this is a modification to an existing space so this used to be a wall we removed it this is existing from the Builder this is existing from the Builder and we just finished doing some measuring and found out they're not parallel so it's very key now that we think about how we lay our tiles so that we don't over emphasize the fact that these are out of line we don't want to have our tile finishing here with no grout line and then opening up to a grout line and going wow what a really nasty looking tile job so keeping in mind that people are coming down the stairs what's in their line of sight what is the most common traffic flow and then where do we want to have our grout lines and interrupt our grout lines and how is it going to meet with the other flooring all these things we got to take into consideration so let's begin so these are our tiles they're 12 by 24 this is a porcelain it's a la Pedro so it's not not a flat it's not a gloss it's kind of like semi-gloss for paint it has a little bit of texture in it and it's really nice for floors especially if you're gonna be going in and out to the hot tub or coming out of a shower because it will give you a little bit of grip it also very easy to clean now the tile floor upstairs which is what we're going to mimic so that we have the same continuity here's an eighth inch offset pattern but it's not a brick pattern this one is a little bit different so I'm just gonna lay this out real quick so that we can have a look as far as what this is going to look like as a finished product all right this is the offset that they're doing upstairs okay so here's our pattern this is an eighth inch offset but this isn't a brick pattern it doesn't keep stepping down in a way it comes back again so what we end up with is two grout lines and then two grout lines with the larger space in the middle and this can be very beneficial for us so what we're gonna do is we're going to use our laser level that we've already established a line all the way down and we're going to just have a quick look at what kind of off cuts we're gonna get if we start in that particular spot so here we're fine it'd be nice if this was not more than half a half a tile yeah that's good so because this wall is going to give me half cuts but it's not square I'm going to just measure from both ends make sure that I'm starting in a place where my off cuts I can use again and I'm not throwing tile away but I like this pattern I like where it's going down here I'm not going to end up with little slivers against the wall I might end up with something over here yeah I'm gonna end up with about a 3-inch piece there and that's gonna be fine but that's out of the way now if I do the same thing down here because that's on my laser line I can find my laser line put my tape measure down check my two foot tiles see where I end up so there I hit the wall at one foot there I'll hit the wall at 16 inch and that will relieve me right into my bathroom Wow that doesn't happen very often but I think that's gonna work alright so here's the secret when you're doing a tile job first you want to identify where your grout lines are going to be what the condition at the visible edges are gonna be like so you can adjust your main line off your laser but secondly also got to consider where you want to finish up so down at this end we're finishing up on a door it's a transition so doesn't matter the conditions going to the storeroom over here we got an entrance to a bedroom door secondary it's out of the line of sight from the main living area but over here is the main living area the French doors leading into the great room now we're going from one type of flooring to another so we will have a cap transition but we don't want to end up with a piece where we have it like a 2 or 3 inch sliver there so what we're gonna do is we're gonna measure off from over there because I need to start way over here this is a two day tile installation so today I want to do all the floor and then tomorrow I want to do the shower and the rest of the bathroom floor but I need to have tile going into that room so I have something that I can stand on wall infinitely on space so my tile is really kind of odd it's actually 11 and a half inches including my grout lines so it's not a true 12 by 24 so I need to measure right through where I want to finish it down to where I want to start and then I can establish my line okay so I come down here there we go there's 19 feet I'm gonna make a mark and I'm gonna do my math so I have 19 feet minus 1/2 inch per tile okay so there's 19 tiles and a half an inch 1/2 a 19 is yep 9 and a half so mate your wine is 9 and a half inches so my mark - nine and a half inches is where my tile will end and then I can go back 11 and a half this is where my first tile is gonna go now I'm gonna just get my square bring it down here off the laser line draw my mark and then I can start tiling okay so this is not too difficult but the pain attention going on here we got our square we got our laser line we're gonna build the entire floor and that is actually our grout line so our every tile that we have going down here well every other tile is going to touch that line so I'm measuring off putting the least square on that line with both my fingers perfect and I have the other point here with my measurement that I put down just a minute ago and I'm gonna just draw my line with my black marker make sure I am good to go there we go and that's where I'm starting so just a quick lesson on how to mix your cement but first where to buy it I use mat byproducts because I go to a local wholesaler for tile and flooring products and the company name doesn't really matter at this point but the point is this my bag of cement this is a lft large-format tile cement and when I buy this bag I believe it's like sixteen or seventeen dollars if you went to the local hardware store to buy this bag you're looking upwards of 35 to 40 now to do this type of cement on that type of tile for 12 by 24 you're probably gonna get 60 or 70 square feet per bag so in a project like this I'm going to go through five bags of cement you can do the math that is about 150 dollars you're gonna save and it's better in your pocket now what you want to do start off by adding a little bit of water ends up being about 20% water give or take nope ends on the tile setter some people like more or less this particular batch is a little warm I only have access to it from the hot water over to your overflow from the tank so I'm gonna have issues with my cement drying quickly on me so once I get going I got to move fast okay good so because it's warm water I've got to work quick I'm not gonna make as much we're gonna make a half pail I'm using a slow-speed mixer it doesn't rotate as fast as a lot of the other like VSR drills and this is designed for cement and for mud mixing so already I can tell it's gonna be a little too stiff you want to add water if you're gonna add more at the very beginning of your mixing process once you're finished mixing it needs to set for 10 minutes before you use it if you add water during that time you're destroying your cement [Music] there we go that's what I like to see it's got some ridging some peeking it's holding its own shape and yet it still looks nice and loose okay so once again for the DIA wires out there we're using a half inch by half inch trowel it works very good with the large format tile cement and the idea is we want to fill up these holes that are in this in order to transfer the contact point from the stone right down into the concrete underneath if you don't fill these or have a bunch of air pockets and you run the risk of cracking your tile and I use my trusty little cheapy cut tile cutter from building store I always put a nice wheel on it and it works just fine when you're installing this way I want a two-day tile install I'll almost always just go for the square footage on the first day so I'll do my square cuts I don't even pull out my grinder I won't do do details around the doors and that sort of thing I won't pull out the wet saw until the second day I don't like to set it up and clean it up twice so here we go we're looking to fill up these squares come at it from a couple of different directions make sure you don't bury your your line you can see you will end up going through a lot of cement so what we're gonna do I'm gonna just try all this out real quick and then I'm going to knock it all in the same direction so that when I'm putting my tile in I have a nice consistent underlay there now because it's a large format I'm gonna steal a little bit of snap-back butter my tile and we're gonna place this down on my line that used to be there and I'm gonna check for my laser level I'm a little too far over perfect a little bit of pressure slide it to my line now in our last tile videos people have commented all you don't have enough adhesion anyway so with one of my viewers listen why don't you lift the tile and show everybody there you go industry standard floors is 80% this is about 97 I ought to be just fine there we go there's our corner stone no I got to do is the same thing over and over and over again till the floors now so flip this box there are clip basically it's the same sciences all the clip systems they break off you just place them underneath the idea here is you just get rid of the extra cement that's in the area because you don't want to have cement popping up between the joints now some people use a margin trowel I'm a little old-school I just like to have one tool in front of me all the time so I use that trial I always visually inspect your corners make sure that things are good remove packaging like this and this is usually installed with tiles that have a some sort of a polished finish on it to protect it from scratching during shipping once again I'm gonna back butter we're gonna lay that in position and about a quarter off put some pressure and push back to collapse the ridges okay nice I'll go this way and this way we'll go both directions just for the purpose of the camera now I usually try to put those wedges in my fingers first but here's the basic idea the clip goes over top here we go sorry I'm on backwards and you just squeeze the wedge through the clip causing compression and it should create a nice flush surface [Music] [Applause] [Music] approximately there we got a tin shop set there we are pressure and I will collapse my ridges now the only thing I'm gonna do differently is I can move away and I used a different tile clip system [Music] you see this works pretty quick [Music] here we go this is for everybody who's been sending me messages about my PPE gotta use eye protection I got this from that crazy Russian hacker I love his goggles [Music] so for those of you who've never done this before this is a continuous rim grinder so if it touches you it'll burn your finger it won't cut your finger off which is lovely the idea here is stone is somewhat sensitive especially men's porcelain and I know people get upset when I call it stone but it's a bad habit you want to cut all the way through on each end and then you want to basically plunge cut here so that the weak spot is going in both directions so if it does break turn cutting the piece that you want to keep stays intact [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] here we go inside corner very important to make sure your clips are pushed all the way in guys basically that's it I sent for the techniques we're going to scratch the corners we're going to fill in as much of this as we can without using it on the grinder so we can get a lot of square footage done today this will allow us all the room we need to be able to walk around and finish the job tomorrow so today I'll be about a half day we'll put down 150 square feet or so and I come back tomorrow to finish this off so today we're going to teach you how to install a herringbone tile on a shower floor before I went to start I've already mapped this out I've taken it to the middle I've gone both directions to check to make sure that this was going to work everything is going to be awesome the only thing is when we get to the outside of our six by six foot pan we want to continue the slope to the outside of the room now the house is moving a little bit of a slope that way so as we go we're going to change our trowel we're gonna start off nice and small and go to quarter go to 3/8 and then go to 1/2 inch just to make sure that we can use our level and keep our stones slowly sloping out just out of the room just a quick shout out to my company map I love this product carob on this is a non modified cement there's no tape latex in it it's necessary and you know designed for use with the Schluter system basically it's old-fashioned cement and it works because it adheres to the plastic end of the tile the regular wall tiles cement that you're gonna find out there it's not gonna bond so make sure use the right stuff and I like this one because it's nice and silky smooth there are other products in the market that a lot more granular I guess everybody likes something a little different but for me it's Cara bond all the way no we can actually install this on her shower floor and because there's so much movement in so many grout lines it'll actually contour and drain the water right to the hole without doing all kinds of crazy cuts this is kind of cool because it's got a texture on it and it also is taken with a lot of different pictures so they all look like an individual piece of wood so what's going on here is this is not like a traditional tile where you have three different designs and it's reoccurring those tiles you have to check the back for an arrow you always have one from base in the same direction it looks stupid this stuff here they all look like individual pieces of wood so I mean I just pulled out my eighth real quick and none of these look the same that's nice so we don't have to worry about a pattern emerging on the floor we're just going to take those in the box as they come we're going to use this one for now [Music] so all we got to do is we're gonna put this cement all over the floor we want to do it as even as possible yeah because the 4's contour I'm gonna take the time to back butter each of these times which may seem monotonous I want to make sure it's gonna be perfect here we go [Music] [Music] so here's the advice if you're doing a pattern like this you have to keep your angles tile the tile true we can't follow your outside walls all of my years in construction I've never seen a square room and if you follow the walls you're bound to have all kinds of issues you can cheat a little bit because the pattern will come along and then we'll get a full tile here so you can be adjusting your grout lines to fill the space a little better the secret is start flesh and then move the tile in both ways create your space [Music] don't press it into the floor there's a time and a place for that and yeah that's why we're back buttering so we don't have to add pressure we don't want to fill all the grout lines for listening [Music] now the herringbone design itself is not new we've seen it on decking but traditionally you'll find this in Europe hardwood floors all over Europe I mean you go 150 200 years ago what was all installed like this and this is where the look came from so when they started making forced and tile that looked like what certainly a pretty natural progression to offer this in that sort of style you're looking with a good quality porcelain gonna stone this this small makes your life pretty easy when it comes to cutting stone the stone I have a wet saw fabulous tool I rely on it for a lot of projects but in this situation I'm using this little scratch tool nothing fancy because you can just go buy one of these and do this project yourself [Music] [Music] so I mentioned earlier about not pressing this stone in because we're on a contour we want to let the stone follow the contour you want to manipulate it and you'll end up with a floor that's all wobbly just take your grout float and a little bit of pressure heading towards the dream then we'll help to guarantee that everything is setting in this cement in the right direction no pounding necessary so over here I've got a couple of spacers up against the wall holding the tile and because I don't want to wait until tomorrow to pull them out to do the floor I'm just gonna cut through nice and simple and we'll leave that piece underneath the tile to support the weight interesting when you're doing this kind of tile is you can get away from you in a quick hurry I'm heading in multiple different directions at the same time and stop we pay attention they treat you tiles and make sure you're doing the pattern right you could change the design not even know it this is all about just being patient because this is porcelain and not ceramic we don't have the challenge that you'll find with ceramic baked tile where they're all different sizes this stuff here is actually it's exactly it's dead-on everything I was exactly the same so I can come at this from all different angles I can go backwards I can fill in this way you go this way I can change direction to come over this way as long as i keeping things relatively square I'll never have an issue okay I'm I'm ripping out the bathroom floor in my house I've got this little Brutus tile cutter must be 810 years ago I don't use it very often but when I get a small tile like this in a small space it's really handy the quality of the tile cutter you know there's a lot of discussion about that there are products out there that are hundreds and thousands of dollars but the reality is it's all in the wheel if you've got a brand-new wheel rims about four or five bucks when does this thing is squaring true you just push create that scratch line now this stone has a weak spot put the pedal there thumbs on grab the bar two pieces you don't need to spend $1,000 for good cut so just a quick note for people who are trying to be conscious about you know the materials and not having waste and throwing things in the garbage most patterns and designs that exist today cause waste figure the stone you put on the more waste because you're always cutting things that aren't use again in this floor here this is kind of neat because I cut a tile for this piece and the offcut is automatically the right size for that piece so in all of the cuts that we've done so far I haven't had throw a single piece in the garbage and I should remain true for the rest of the floor how much hard to see the factory edge amazing I'm gonna cheaper a better condition just a quick that won't stick but everything is rolling towards the drain just like it's supposed to so for all you perfectionists out there and I'm gonna get a comment hey that wasn't level it's not supposed to be we are trying to keep the outside of the room higher than the drain so all the water goes in one spot what we're just demonstrating here is even though we're just putting it all in nice and simple and following the contour of the floor you know it's still nice and smooth there's not a lot of trip surface here if you go here it's still a bit of a down curve and when I get to the other side of the pan it starts slipping back yeah right now test level that's the middle you get to the outside and we'll start sloping up again but here everything's sloping towards the drain as well we're just a quick example here the flutter drain system comes in three different pieces this is just the color that goes in the drain this sits inside that color and this is your adjustment plate all of this gets set in cement and it really holds on well okay so what we have to do and I'm just real quick for everybody at home this is a waterproof membrane the drain itself is rather large it comes way out here and so I cement the waterproof membrane over the drain into this membrane so any of the water that goes all the tile goes down this drain and that's great but any water because of gravity and gets underneath the tile for whatever reason years from now it'll follow this orange mat leak out into here you can hit this up here this white mesh is actually a secondary drain so the water will be able to get through and into this drain as well and what goes under the time so we gotta get some cement in here and it's adjustable you can see so you can kind of slide this around a little bit and find the happy place with your tile so the bumps the bumps you leave at the top because that's what the plate catches so we get our ring we get our ring in there we're gonna stick this on when this is compression fit so now that we have that one we're gonna just fill this up like every other part of the tile surface what we're doing listen because it's just plastic and plastic and then once we get the tile cut around it I'll be able to set this in to like a 30-second range lower than the tile so the draining is gonna be really easy so these drains are adjustable from one inch to almost zero no matter what kind of floor system you're putting in it'll be compatible so we're gonna just trace where I want to go and that's the key right now I'm marking what I want to come so I end up with a little grid line I'm just gonna leave this one here and settle in my gap and now I can work my next one then I take my two pieces and then just be firm see that cut smooth everything that even I don't know why just set that up again like okay let's go cut some stone [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so we're not gonna do anything different here it's gonna set our stone [Music] just a hair lower than this stone all you need to do to finish this floor keep on do it we just showed it that covers all the basic tricks remember if you want to learn more just subscribe to our channel well thanks for joining us for an introduction to all things bathroom floor tile now listen here at home renovation we really believe that there's more than one way to do everything right so there's a lot of different systems and a lot of different degrees of quality that you can move into so we like to show you all your different options so we also have a lot of other videos out there that teach you all the different steps so if you want to learn how to do heated flooring systems you want to learn how to do water proof when we've got all that in our playlist we also have those projects that you saw there with the bathroom floor tile a lot of those we have in reality run on vision series as well where you can see the whole bathroom project or the whole kitchen project laid out for you so I encourage you to check the links at the end of the video and if you haven't subscribed to the channel and you're just responding us now then by all means hit the little icon in the bottom of the screen there and subscribe to the channel like the video please we love that interaction it really helps us with the people over the YouTube and we will see you again next time [Music]

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 392,326

Keywords: Home renovision DIY, How to tile your Bathroom Floor, How to tile your bathroom DIY, bathroom renovation DIY, how to tile bathroom, how to tile a floor, tile, bathroom floor tile, herringbone tile tutorial, porcelain tile tutorial, different bathroom tile, bathroom remodel, DIY bathroom remodel, 18x18 tile tutorial, remodel your own bathroom, shower remodel, tub remodel, DIY bathroom fix, fix bathroom home remodel, Jeff Thorman

Id: B5N23ycRUcQ

Length: 47min 32sec (2852 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 08 2018