How to Remodel A Bathroom on a Budget | A to Z

hey it's jeff and thanks for watching my new a to z bathroom remodel video in this video we're going to teach you everything you need to know so you can change your flooring and your toilet and upgrade your vanity from single to a double install an alcove tub in a corner with a half wall with a wall mounted faucet this is a lap of luxury and it's very affordable everybody should upgrade their bathroom to a four piece to have this in it we're gonna go through every step that you need so you can be successful in your bathroom renovation unfortunately we don't have enough room in the file or in the time to put the shower in this as well so it's going to be a separate a to z video it's going to be coming out next week okay we'll put a link in the video description as well in case you're watching this later on you don't want to miss it because all of these elements together really build and transform a bathroom from something that was functional kind of into something that's beautiful and adds value to your home all right that's the goal we don't want to remodel a bathroom just to give it a different look we want to upgrade its functionality and upgrade its value that's what we're doing here is teaching you how to do that so that you can make more value in your home sit back grab some popcorn enjoy this all right make sure you ask your questions in the comments section as you go through we're going to be heavily into the comments this winter when this video is out so that we can help you guys out with all your questions and nuances because not every bathroom's the same hopefully this helps you out cheers in this video guys i'm going to show you how to install a new floor on top of an existing floor it doesn't matter what kind of flooring you have or where you're switching over to whether it's lvt or you're using laminate or you're using engineered hardwood or spc doesn't make a difference as long as you have any kind of hard surface the only rule is if you have carpet you've got to remove it other than that these steps anybody can transform any room from something nasty like this to something gorgeous like this now just so that you're all aware what's going on here i'm doing a complete bathroom remodel i'm doing seven videos on this so this is one of the series of that seven if you want to watch the rest of those video check out the video description you get the links to watch this whole series don't forget to give us a thumbs up if you like learning how to do things that make your house worth more money that you can do yourself just to make this interesting i've chosen the most difficult situation in the home and you'll be able to watch this and go wow that wasn't that tricky i'm using engineered hardwood it's a floating floor okay no fasteners no adhesives it just sits by the miracle of gravity now you've got to use the right products and procedures so we're going to go through that the reason this is tricky is because this floor is heated that's right this is a heated floor and i've got a system to install floating floor over top of the heated floor that actually works for any kind of surface step number one you're going to want to cut and remove all your baseboards that's simple grab yourself an olfa knife if you don't have an awful knife go to the store and buy one or just use our amazon links in the video description and grab one of these okay these are amazing and what you're doing here is you're cutting the caulking but even more than that you're cutting the paper okay so that if you if you tear it when you're taking off the baseboard it doesn't go above the knife line okay that's what you're just cutting right through into the paper one thing you want to make sure you do when you're taking baseboards off is don't increase your scope of work this is a five inch baseboard we're going to go back with a five and a half the idea is if i cut through the paper instead of caulking i eliminate the risk of the caulking pulling the drywall paper off the surface i don't have to patch and prime and repair all right i just stick the new baseboard on and i'm good to go i'm gonna grab my trusty red bar all right see how that works you're never going to increase your damage the caulking grabbed the paper here but only went down because i cut through the drywall had i not cut through that drywall paper it would have peeled all the way up the walls and pulled it off that just would have added hours of work to the day step one done all right step two is sweep and scrape because you don't know the condition of your house you might have chunks of mud or cement there could be just about anything attached to your flooring so you want to try to create as completely smooth and clean surface as you can and you just kind of go along here like you're raking your yard after the leaves in the fall fall down inspecting every square inch one of the biggest mistakes people make is they don't clean enough before they start and then while they're working they've got to stop and find the tools again and then bend down and scrape again and then they've got to get the vacuum to clean it up properly it can really slow you down so really go over the whole work area i'm going to be installing flooring up to here and then i'm going to transition i'm going to move the saw to the other side of the room here we go step 3 is vacuum okay it's not good enough to sweep dirt is your enemy whenever you're doing a flooring job you really want to get into all those nooks and crannies where you remove the baseboard and make sure all that debris is gone you'd be surprised how much dirt is going to be moving around the room as you're dropping the boards and moving around so you want to just try to suck it all clean as much as you can before you start laying your flooring are you going to get dirt caught underneath your floor and it's going to make noise every time you walk on it [Music] here's a quick tip when you have a big groove like this okay and you've got your vacuum up against it if it's not sucking up the debris just take a finger on each side and close off the ability for the air to increase the vacuum pressure and that'll suck up just about anything okay step three is underlayment all right especially with the heated floor you've got to be careful which underlayment you choose there's plenty of them on the market now this one is the one that i chose and believe it or not i know i'm always giving home depot a hard time for the some of the quality of the products they carry but this particular product is actually available at home depot in the united states and if you want to know what it is and the benefits of it it's actually quite simple i'm going to throw a link in the video description we're going to do a video specifically on this product and answer all these questions okay but this product here has got a lot of different properties you're going to want to check that video out to understand is it the right product for you because i've given other recommendations in the past by using three millimeter evm but you can't use that over top of the heated floor so there's a lot of information in that video i'm gonna suggest you check it out but with all kinds of hard surface over another floor i suggest using an underlayment because it makes it quieter as a first first benefit and if you buy the right product you get a lot more value out of the installation and you do by spending a lot more money on high quality flooring so installing most floating floors are as simple as having a tape measure and a pencil okay you really just want to make sure you follow the next couple rules rule number one leave a quarter inch gap around the whole room for expansion contraction all right rule number two make sure that all your finishing trims are going to finish on top of your flooring so over here coming out of the bedroom i actually scribed it earlier so i can slide my first piece underneath and that is a perfect finish remember when you're cutting around things just marking by eye works really well but then use a square to draw your lines to cut with okay okay now you know that's the piece i'm cutting out if you're working with somebody who's helping you and you both follow the same process it's easy to mark and then identify what the cutoff is so step number five of course installing the flooring means you need to have some cutting tools depending on the material you're going to have a variation so you could have a chop saw like this a sliding miter saw you can have a jigsaw a lot of the vinyl floors out there you can cut with a utility knife but only straight lines when in doubt if you're not sure and you don't want to spend a fortune of tools if you buy one jigsaw you can cut any kind of hard surface floor laminate engineered hardwood or vinyl and you can do every single cut with one tool and this is like about 50 or 60 bucks of course you're gonna sacrifice a little bit of quality with your cuts okay and most materials respond the same the solution is we install the baseboard at the end and it'll cover all that damage but if you can get your hands on a saw like this it's much faster work [Music] just use a knife to clean out the corners ready to go there we go almost all of these products install the same put in an angle and then they click lock together there we go when you hear that sound you know you've got it right here the product invariably especially with wood comes in different sizes all right so you're going to want to sort through it make sure that you're being creative with your joints if you had the same joint every second board all the way through the room it's going to look very interesting one of the reasons you use wood is because wood comes in different lengths so you can take your offcuts keep them handy and always use them to finish off the rows [Music] here we are a good example of just mixing up where the locations are if you have six inches from one joint to the next you're always going to be fine and happy with the way it looks when you're measuring for the remainder just take the board the direction it's facing turn it around now that's your finished edge that goes right here press it up against the wall and then subtract the quarter inch gap that you want here we go mark and cut it save the piece to start another row later on or take a few inches off so you can move your your joint to a different location i'm going to save this one for later you can see there's not a lot of skill involved in doing this the only thing you really got to be concerned about is making sure your joints are staggered okay as long as you're staggering your joints you're going to be really happy with your end result all right so i'm going to just race through the rest of this room and get this all done give this video a thumbs up if you like the idea of learning how to do remodeling projects in your home that you can do yourself with just minimal tools and really increase the value of your property that is the secret and it's money in the bank in this video i'm going to teach you everything you need to know so that you can change your toilet and install a new one even if you're changing the height of your floor stay tuned all right guys one of the most important things you need to learn about managing your house is managing the water specifically with your toilet there are at least well there's at least one toilet for every person living in north america right we're toilet crazy we've got them at home we got them at work we've got them where we eat we got them where we play got them in the park bottom line is there's a about a billion toilets floating around north america and on a regular basis they need to be removed and changed the sizes change styles change you used to have like huge tanks right enough water in there to fill a swimming pool but now we're getting really low flow and trying to conserve so everybody's updating toilets we're going to go through the process for doing this first thing you got to do is shut off the water supply in the back i am lucky because i have a 90 degree turn shutoff valve and then remove these things these things are brutal a lot of times people try to move their toilet and then they want to reinstall it later because they're doing a renovation and if you don't manage this it breaks really easily so you got to put it somewhere safe thanks matt yeah now that the water's off you gotta empty the sucker all right empty out the back now this is called the tank and this is a one-piece toilet so we don't have any risk of leakage here but if it's a two-piece especially make sure that you've emptied out the back and you just check to make sure that the two screws and bolts that are there are tight and nothing's wiggling around okay managing your water here is really the key if you don't manage the water that's in the toilet when you move it because it is a p-trap if you look at an old toilet you'll see the pipe come down and up okay there's a big snake here and the water actually sits in the bowl all the way down and all the way back up again until it spills over the top to go down to the through the floor and so that's the p-trap here just like underneath the sink if you leave all that water in there as you move it splashes over the top wall okay and it ends up all over your floor so what i've got a system here to help you do this so you're not going to run in trouble first of all get a pail of water because it's a p-trap if i pour a large volume of water down at a quick time creates a vacuum and it'll suck all the water out of that p-trap almost to the very end check this out so the water level used to be here now it's down here so that means on the back side of that p-trap that's in here i've got a few inches to play with that's enough for me to manage no need to go grab a vacuum and shove your vacuum in a toilet and get it full of bacteria god just do that and then follow the following process you want to disengage your water supply from your shut off valve a couple of turns it should be just finger tight now you're going to get a dribble here don't panic it's just a little bit of water in that hose okay secondly all toilets have some sort of connection system to the floor in this case there's this little cap and a screw and there's something on the floor that's attached to the floor inside the back of the toilet that that screws into okay there's all kinds of systems out there now be careful and pay attention to which one you have if you have a traditional toilet it's just going to be the white caps with toilet bolts you might even need a hacksaw to cut those bolts off depending on the condition of the toilet this toilet looks to be grouted and silicone to the floor if you've never seen that before consider it because the grout offers you a lot of stability and the silicone gives you a great seal look at that there we go what do you mean it was crowded to the floor well the toilet was installed and then grit was pushed into the groove right and then what does it gives it stability so it doesn't rock it's very common when you're working on uneven surfaces because instead of using uh silicone shims you can just grout it in yeah big deal coming back the next day a little bit of silicone off you go all right now she's ready to be released okay so what we're going to do is we're going to lift this up matthew's going to bag it behind me and take it out of the way i like putting something like this straight into a shower pan unfortunately today because we're using lights we can't get to the shower pan so we'll set it behind us the reason for the bag is in case there's any water pouring dripping out we keep it contained okay now uh we're also going to get a chance to see the condition of the seal on this toilet and we'll talk about that and we'll discuss options to make this work we haven't done this in a little while yeah this one's a difficult one because you're basically you're getting it up in the air i have nothing to grab here yeah so i'm going to grab the back corner and the front edge okay right here and i'm just going to wrap it okay ready all right i'm trying to lift it up level [Applause] there you go okay straight down yeah all right now at this point if you can just get more bag towards the back okay and then rock it forward forward a little bit there we go okay that's good now slide that right over easy easy easy yeah okay well that one worked really well i like that system so this particular toilet came with a whole flange nut and bolt system look at that who installed that look at that not even a drip of water no wax there's a lot of options out here for doing this kind of work so what i'm going to do now is let's take this apart and we'll show you different options so this is actually a pretty advanced toilet it's uh going to be rather expensive to buy these about four or 500 bucks here's the deal traditional toilets don't come with a system like this okay for connection that's where the screws went into isn't that amazing let's get something back to what it looks like a little bit more traditional okay so this particular toilet comes with installation instructions for this unit right here and this one sits on the wax all right and it's just a really traditional wax ring but the toilet itself is designed differently okay so here we go this is all special installation for that particular unit this is traditionally what you're going to find so here's the wax ring that you would buy that i used in this situation all right and it is one inch thick okay and it gets compressed and it makes a really good sew and you can see it is no longer one inch thick all right now the reason that it fits so well and it didn't leak anywhere is because the height of this flange versus the toilet the tile here i'm a big believer in the idea of this the top of your flange needs to be at bare minimum flush with your finish floor or a quarter of an inch higher and anywhere in that range okay now on this particular floor it has a slight slope look at this almost flush at the back okay full quarter of an inch higher than the floor in the front all right and that's why this works because i use a regular wax if this is lower i wouldn't want to about this okay this is the large version of the wax same product one and a half times as thick okay so if you have a toilet that's really flush with the floor i wouldn't suggest going with the regular wax get the jumbo reinforced flange wax okay get the jumbo and that will help make sure that you get good compression into the wax now let me just go through a couple of things here when you pull this one out of the package okay the jumbo wax there is a possibility that you can screw this up if you have a good gap here if you have a nice gap here and you get the jumbo wax you have the potential of doing something like this you're going to go like this you're going to drop your wax in place right you're going to line up your bolts you're going to go to set the toilet in if when you go to set the toilet in you're not all the way where you want to be so you're going straight down on it okay you're not going to get good compression what possibly could happen is you could start here and then you might start moving backwards okay and you get into position you think oh great i got a good seal what you've done is you've collapsed your hole okay and you end up i'm just going to do the demonstration here i've seen this before many times we'll get a call from a customer they're like this is back in the days when i worked warranty for a renovation company and i'd open up the toilet and i'd see something like this all right and set up a nice big three inch hole they got this all right that looks like the size of a drain for the sink you're going to run into trouble so you don't want to be forcing the wax back or sliding it left and right when you drop your toilet on you want to be over top foot go straight down if that means you need two or three people to help you then get them okay but you've got to make sure you go straight down onto your wax you need to avoid that trouble all right garbage okay here we go so i'm going to set this aside because i'm going to use this one later to reinstall this toilet let me just go through a couple of other options you all might have seen this before and i use this on a toilet in my uh a bathroom video max in my my form here's downstairs yeah and downstairs we had um oh this this place the floor downstairs is over crawl space and the crawl space is really short and it's old-school 1880 construction so the floor has a lot of movement and so what we did down there to solve our toilet problem is i had a the toilet flange sitting on the plywood and then we had flooring and because of the height of the flooring i had to add some beef to it we put in this rubber gasket here okay it goes over the holes and this rubber gasket replaces the need for wax okay so then what happens is the toilet sits on this and as the house moves and breathes so does the gasket see that so if the toilet is moving around in position all year round with different seasons the gasket maintains contact with the toilet and have a good seal wax doesn't do that once wax is pushed and collapsed it does not spring back in place so if you have an older house or you're on a crawl space and you get weird weather having a foam gasket like this might be a good solution for you this was available at home depot if you want to search it out we'll put the uh i'll put a link i think it might be available on amazon closet flange extension okay and it also comes with a flange extender now this ring is going to be for a good first this situation here check this out we are adding new flooring now look what happens all of a sudden the flange is lower than my finish floor okay you don't want that because if i put this on here with that lower than that my toilet's not even going to make contact with that flange okay that's a serious problem make sure you've always got that at least flush or a quarter inch higher so what they do is they sell this little extension kit okay boom boom boom there we go now we set this up so your bolts are when you're looking at it like a clock face you're at three o'clock and nine o'clock nice and square and level don't go like this or the toilet might have a potential to pop right out of the holes okay now you're high enough that might even be a little bit too high okay but what you want to do is you want to screw these four corners right into the existing abs drain system okay so i have abs drain you might be on a cpvc if it's on cast you can't use this you can't use this extender on cast okay they have a different one and it's a whole new world most people in the world were not on cast plumbing anymore because extended toilet bolt kits as well because when you start building up your toilet kit you might not have bolts long enough to get above the new toilet when you start stacking all this together right so all three of these things work together to get an extension and a seal let me get these out of the damn way okay there we go extension seal and in between this is a gasket under compression and it seals everything okay that's why we're screwing it down to create compression don't use silicone i've seen so many plumbers use silicone and throw on a teflon ring it's lazy it's wrong it always leaks anywhere where you have water sitting silicone will give out and eventually because the toilet should sit there for the lifetime of the of the room we don't reinstall them every year to get a fresh seal but if you have any silicone in that assembly water will get underneath between that silicone it'll start working its way out onto your subfloor brought out your subfloor and when your subfloor starts to rot around your toilet all your screws are in rotting wood and so the wood swells and then everything starts to get loose and then your toilet starts to wiggle and as your toilet wiggles the wax starts to open up worse and worse and worse next thing you know the wax is broken the water's all around the toilet this is what happens it can take five or ten years but so don't let somebody install a toilet incorrectly in your house because the warranty they're going to give you on that installation is 30 days to a year tops right but the damage they can cause by doing it wrong will bite you in the butt years down the road you'll be sitting there going geez honey there's a really weird dark stain on the ceiling what's up with that somebody use silicone on your toilet all right now the next option is this product here okay it's very similar now this one comes this one has two different thicknesses and rings okay so this is my go-to any time that i know i need an extension but i'm not sure how big it's going to be because i haven't pulled the toilet off yet i buy one of these okay there's two gaskets that come with it there's an adhesive backing on it okay the adhesive backing is to apply to the underside of the ring i'm gonna set that up bam all right now you're ready to go extension all right now the reason i like this particular system is like i said it's got the screws so i can screw in four corners the other thing it has is this bolt system doesn't allow it to slide out okay so you can put these in the right location and then you stack it like this then you would screw it in okay now when you're going to go install your toilet they have these clips check this out little plastic washers it's kind of like a zip tie okay and you can get your bolts standing straight up by using that zip tie remember what i said about setting your toilet straight down if you use this system here you can line this up perfectly and as an individual you can set that on if you don't have those these bolts can be all over the place making contact with the toilet and then you gotta lean and slide and try to you need two people but with this it's a one person installation very common out there is the existing floor if you're adding tile then you know you have to get one and a quarter inch thick on your subfloor so what we do is we don't move the flange we add the plywood around it we got a great video that we added the subfloor okay if you're doing a project like that you need to add subfloor thickness we'll put a video link in the description we can check the card if you get cards in your notification the other thing is when you go that thick on your tile you take the the seal okay boom double stack this bad boy okay good to go now when you do your screws you screw through here they're already lined up boom boom boom all the way down into the abs now you've got enough height difference here to add plywood and tile and still have a little bit sitting above your floor okay guaranteed every time if you're doing a tile job and you're going from um just regular subfloor because you had a vinyl sheet floor go back to the original five eights get that little quarter inch plywood out of there grab one of these kits and double stack it all right and then you can install your toilet knowing that you're gonna have a great seal and depending on the thickness like i said you can go with the regular wax if you are a little bit above your floor when you're finished or you can go the large wax when you're done all right one more thing when you're doing your toilet day make sure you pop by your local coffee shop grab yourself a copy these are like wax lined cups perfect every time that'll stop the sewer gas from coming into the house while you're working this information is really good for anybody who has cpvc or or abs plumbing all right um if you have cast you can actually buy brass rings if sometimes the cast you still have lead the lead is a soft metal that's sticking up and you can actually just take a torch to it really lightly and then you can hammer it flat okay i know it's crazy and then you can put your adhesive right over top of that and then bolt your toilet to the floor there's a few other varying situations but they also make a a flange insert that goes into that pipe and it's called twist and seal all right it's a white pvc has a big three inch black gasket on it and the sides are tapered the idea is you set it in place and you start spinning it and the the contact that the the gasket has with the side of the pipe slowly starts to get compressed tighter and tighter and tighter as you thread it down so if you have an old pipe and you don't have a flange and you've got nothing attached to that twist and seal will save your bacon okay so it is on the market all of these things are available at your local building store you don't have to go to a specialty supply store for this that's the best part when in doubt if you have an issue take a picture of what you're dealing with get a measurement of whatever your finish is from your floor know your flooring assembly you're going to be using you can go to the hardware store and they'll help you get the right stuff okay they're at least competent enough to help you with that most plumbing departments at these stores you've got someone who has enough confidence to help you with your toys huh and if you have other questions and you just can't seem to solve your problem consider becoming a member on our channel we've got a forum you can send pictures and ask questions there and we can help you out ourselves okay so in summary let's just go through the the major points here one don't ever use silicone if you have to rely on silicone to seal your water you're just delaying the damage that's inevitable number two try to get flush to a quarter inch up okay if you're a quarter inch high it's perfect regular wax is good if you need to build it up use a system that's designed for building it up don't get creative in your home and experiment all right and number three always install your toilet straight down when you're finished and you'll be just fine remember one of the most common causes of water damage in the home is a leaking toilet it's unbelievable i've probably replaced in 500 toilets in my career and i'll tell you right now about 430 of them were installed or wrong so if you're watching this video chances are yours is too the way you can tell is if it moves side to side or front to back you got a 95 chance that there's a leak going on right now you might want to take it up and have a good look okay if you like that information and you think it saved your bacon give this video a thumbs up don't forget subscribe to this channel because we are in the middle of a massive bathroom remodel project we're doing everything bought from the local building store so that you guys can do this project at home on your own okay it's going to be totally doable yes you can remodel your bathroom and you can make a ton of money doing it so now that we've got our flooring installed let's take a look at the actual implementation of the solution here we'll start off by going with a thick ring now you're gonna see that maybe that's allowable on the back because i have a slope floor and a level fixture um i'm way too thick at the front so that's not going to be acceptable remember this it's gonna be sitting on the floor so i can't have something that's causing this to be sitting too high off the ground or that's just gonna be a serious problem for me here we go this is the thinner piece okay i'm just above flush here maybe an eighth and i'm a quarter in front i like that we're gonna go with it you know it's funny because you know most toilets don't have an elaborate system like this this has an integrated rubber gasket here that the toilet actually is gonna stretch and have its own self-seal and i'm using wax to seal this to my my flange majority of toilet toilets that are on the market today are basically they're cheap they don't have you know expensive flange options there's a lot of different companies out there who sell four six eight hundred dollar toilets and they have really complex systems to manage the fact that it'll never leak but the average person is getting a builder grade toilet or they're going to a box store to find a toilet to replace what they have now and they just don't sell quality there so you have to contend with the fact that your installation has to be bloody perfect to protect yourself there's just no mercy for you [Laughter] wow that'd be nice if they weren't quite so aggressive if when you put your flange on and you're over gaps or screws and you can't use the pre-drilled holes don't worry about it all right just reposition i know this ain't sexy but it's gonna get done [Music] okay yeah just because it works doesn't mean it's easy all right now this is just nasty dealing with these wax rings if you want you can wear latex gloves if you can get a even find them due to covet it's hard to get a hold of products like that at the hardware store nowadays so where are some clothes that you can rub your hands on and get rid of the wax all right now that's in position next couple of steps got to happen pretty darn quick here all right we do not want to be smelling our sewer system thank you timmy's for your help it's just wax but you don't want to have too much buildup on the inside and make your hole smaller right all right now here we go it's amazing now with most conventional toilets all you do is you put the wax down attach your screws and drop your toilet right over top with this system i have to go grab a wrench now but i got to install this coupling i got to install this system over top and then tighten my screws [Music] so you can see that the nut sits on top of these brass washers when the washers start to bend you're putting more pressure on that toilet than you need to okay that's your key you don't know when to stop you want to know how much pressure as soon as this nut starts to bend that washer and so it's folding into the hole just stop you've got enough pressure you're not doing any more favor to yourself by going any tighter all right well now i'm just going to drop the toilet in place and connect the water supply again cutting the bolts down because i don't want to have any interruption with setting that new one on top boom this particular toilet what's that for that's where this goes okay that's where the screw the screw to set this in goes so when you're gonna go set the toilet down put the hole right in the middle of that tape and then set it down i'll bend to the left you go to the right i know it seems silly but straight over okay i'm good me too there you go it just sits right in place [Music] put our little decorative cap on there that looks pretty connect our water supply shut off valves always start with finger tight and when it gets stiff you know you've made contact with the gasket that's in there okay then you can take a pliers give it another full turn maybe a foot turn and a half really gets good compression okay check for leaks we're good now remember whenever you're doing a remodeling project you're adding new flooring if your plumbing is coming through the floor you don't have to cut it off and put on a new shutoff valve just work your flooring around that hole get yourself one of these this is called a split pipe flange okay this will cover up the pipe and just snaps in place and you just set it there good to go perfect every time here we go guys now listen very careful when you put the you don't want to at the last moment when you have a full tank of water crack the darn tank in this video today guys we are going to renovate or remodel this tub area and we're going to take it from this to this i know it's not much to look at right now but the tub is actually fantastic jetted tub we're just going to peel off all the trims get some proper substrate in behind it get some tile on the walls and then we're also going to remove this here and build a new half wall i'm going to have the um tub faucet for this coming out of the wall it's a beautiful new fixture we'll show you all about that later and how to install it we'll do the plumbing and everything but right now what i got to do is peel this onion apart and find out right back to the original integrated tile flange of the tub so then i can rebuild properly all right i've already got the water off downstairs so we're going to open up the line and all we're going to get is air so there's a little bit of water coming out of the line but generally i'm just allowing air in here i opened up a faucet on the main floor so now the lines are all busy being drained that's what we want because we're going to get this removed off the floor too so while that's draining we're going to just peel this open looks like just brad nails nose adhesives that's great news for me oh yes love trusting in silicones and sealants you know if they're sitting in water they never hold this is the problem with most of the showers and tub systems in the world today 95 of the systems that are out there that they're selling you require silicone to be the waterproofing and it never never holds oh yeah guy you know you're gonna have a temporary shower if you buy something that needs silicone to keep it from getting wet let's see how much mold we're going to get back here [Music] not bad wow that's surprising actually let's have a look at this now should just lift out and lay down [Music] i'm not sure that one the hell i can't remember how i did that i must have had a hole open from the ceiling down beneath okay well it looks like i'm gonna cut a hole in the ceiling then what to do let's do what to do like there we go okay it was just wedged in and that is what i need right there okay now i can cut that line and cap them and then it'll be a little freer to work around here now i'm getting plumbing materials i figured i'm also going to have supplies to sink a ship maybe we'll get lucky and be able to reroute it right up into this wall cavity while we're at it now this is one of these situations you want to have paper towels with you if we can avoid having to cut open the ceiling downstairs that'll save me another four or five hours worth of work so we're gonna just be slow and gentle here there's two things we have to avoid if that line drops out below beneath the floor here then i'm not going to be able to uh have access to it all right this weighs a couple of pounds all right that ought to keep it where it is we'll get the copper ring on it if we can all right so even if that falls down now it's not going to be a problem okay step one all right at least we can put it finish the flooring now now i've got to figure out if i have enough flexibility to get enough of that line into this cavity well this is going to get messy i'm taking my watch out all right so here's the plan yeah i need to be able to reach in and hold the pipe cut it and then cap it with my thumb right away drop the cutters and then pull the old line out so they don't get water everywhere because there's water sitting in that line from here it goes down and then back up so that's like a p-trap for water now i don't want that water going into anywhere else yeah we are gonna have water ladies and gentlemen there's just no way around it so what i'm going to do i'm going to create a spill catcher i'm going to lay this on this drywall for the ceiling these absorbent towels ought to catch whatever drippy mess i make i'm gonna get that in here [Music] even if the drywall gets a little wet it'll still dry it's just not enough room in here for two hands okay okay i got most of it yeah i'll be able to put an elbow on that and crimp it okay okay now this cutter it's starting to get old it's been dinged up in my toolbox too much so it doesn't cut very nice without crushing the pipe which is why i'm having trouble now you know i should answer this question while i'm here i get this question a lot about um these rings versus the pinch clamps so this system was out a long time ago all right and basically it's just a ring and there's a tool that pinches this they work great if it's pinched properly okay and if it fails it's going to fill right away so you got to pressurize your lines before you move forward because you just don't know there's um it's an overlap system right here so the bridge shows if it doesn't pinch right and then it and it comes off this little nub here that's sticking through it's just it'll blow right off that's why i like the solid rings the solid rings never fail unless you forget to crimp them so if you're doing plumbing in your own home and you want to know which system is better solid rings by a mile used to be that these tools are 150 but now you can get them for 30 bucks two more then we'll get on with the demo knowing our plumbing is taken care of we're going to just put our caps in here cool thing about these caps you see the tabs on the side it's like a depth stopper okay so you can bring the ring right up to make contact with it where's it going here we go here we go that's where you install it that pushed all the way down and lifted up to contact perfect every time you don't have to think about it okay and it's the same gap for every other crimp that you're going to do about a quarter inch from the end of the pipe all right okay so this is all silicon let's just grab in the dirt all right make sure your blade is nice and clean you got to remove it new silicone will not bond to old silicone gotta always remove it and not just the bulk of it i mean if there's a skim that thin little layer here that's all it takes for there not to be a bond okay it's got to come off and then even at that there's still a little bit of something there right now they make silicone removers and you paint them on and you brush them on and then you let it sit there for a while and you can rub it off but if you've got a ton of silicone sitting there it'll take you weeks to do that process so get a good blade get it nice and make sure it's sharp make sure it's flat okay make sure you're nice and low and get underneath all that old stuff in a lot of cases like this when i'm doing a resurfacing and i'm changing the silicone out i'm also having the tub glazed again so i'm not concerned about if i put a little hair scratch in it or something right and i'm also taking it off where i'm planning on putting silicone again so even the smaller scratches are going to get covered by the new bead of silicone yeah it's the same process same glazing no matter what kind of tub you have steel acrylic porcelain doesn't matter you'll be good so once we're done all the tile if you want to do a re-glazing program call up the local re-glazing okay or tub glazing people and they'll just tell you over the phone and say just don't put any silicone on until after we've glazed okay because whatever they're using bonds to old silicone residue okay and then you're gonna have a new surface and then you can you can all of your tub to the tile all right so just do it in the right order you'll be just fine this is a great tool i think it's a husky brand isn't it yeah it's a brat now remover when you're doing a demolition the best time to remove nails is right away okay don't leave it and be really thorough if you leave one nail and inevitably someone comes along do mud or caulking and hits a nail it can damage your tool and slice your fingers open so make sure you have your electrical tape handy not easy but it'll be possible all right well here's a solution to our problems uh cardi board right half inch it's the same thickness as your drywall i'm going to put it on the back down the side all across the front i'm going to replace this and i'm going to take the first four inches of drywall out of here and i'm going to install the schluter kerdi board all along the back side as well okay and then when i build this frame we'll wrap that in kerdi-board as well it's nice and simple um i'm probably going to waterproof the board to the tub surface we'll have to show you that in just a few minutes we're going to want to definitely waterproof with the kerdi tape to the tub surface okay if i use the kerdi tape to about maybe half an inch on the tub surface and then up then i'll be able to have a waterproof seal to the tub and avoid water sitting underneath that gap and i think that's what i'm going to have to do the other solution is i'm going to take the kerdi-fix um or the sealant bond because it's easier to get a hold of okay up here and can we have lapage sealant down in the states you guys have the loctite corporation and they make all the same stuff so they have a lock tight seal and bond product and you can actually throw a thick bead okay and then set the board in the bead problem solved you fill that gap with something that's going to seal it up forever and be waterproof then that's a lot easier and probably a lot more cost effective than buying a rolex kerdi tape so now i have a plan i got to go shopping i need a little bit more of this board i wasn't sure what was going to be found here but this is just a thin plywood okay so this particular tub comes with these wooden blocks already and adhesive attached to the tub and it's got a quarter inch gap so it's great for facade you put a quarter inch plywood on there or something and you paint it in trim it up like i did um because that's not doing anything to help okay this board was installed to be the back at the same depth as this so i'm going to just save that and then we'll move on all right well now it's time for me to prep for my tile and in order to do that i want to get rid of this drywall surface because of the fact that this could hold water and i'm not going to get rid of a lot i'm just going to cut out like about four inches or something and i'm going to replace it with the schluter board or the dense shield that i just bought because i went to the store to get enough schluter board and they were out of stock loving it so i picked up denshield because in a tub environment i don't need to worry about having a waterproofing system i just need to make sure that i have a good quality tile backer that isn't going to be deteriorated if it gets you know in contact with some water which will be temporary so dense shield is a perfect solution for that situation it's a fiberglass based board don't recommend it in showers personally but that's because it requires silicone in order to have good joints or you're using excluded kerdi membrane if you're going to go through all that half so you might as well just buy the kerdi-board right out of the gate because it's the same price as those two products put together a hell of a lot easier to work with if you can get your hands on it so here we are today being creative and bobbing and weaving with the kovid supply chain issue this is my tile you might have seen this before we're using it in the bathroom in the shower and we're going to just bring it over here because it's going to look lovely now what i want to do i'm just going to walk through my process from a way my brain things so it's a little scary you can see that this is the leftover of that other wall that was here but i'm putting in a two by six wall here and that only comes to this point two by six plus the the dense shield plus the tile is going to come down and cover my floor i'm really hoping so i just dropped a laser level on the edge of the tub and i'm going to find out where my six and a half comes to here like really just to the edge of my flooring so what i'm going to do is i'm going to build my 2x6 box and i'm going to shim and then attach the tub to the box with the added part of a shim and that'll give me an extra eighth to three sixteenths and that'll give me positive contact on there okay it's not a real big deal just gonna be a little bit creative and that will be fine so basically what i'm doing is i'm gonna put a leg here a leg there something like a two by four across on the bottom just to give it some stability uh a two by six across here so that i can attach my tub to the structure and that leaves nothing but space so that when my plumbing comes tomorrow then i can put in a proper backer piece and all that sort of stuff okay now the other challenge here of course is the floor has a slope so i need to use a laser level to draw my line to build my box [Applause] remember just because just because your floor is not level doesn't mean you want to build everything else not level okay your counters level the tub is level i want the box level the tile should be level and you want to have a finished spot and then everything grow to me make contact with the floor so i'm going to just take a measurement here and we're going to just remind us that this is 11 and 5 8. now let's do some tub math 11 and 5 8. okay now right here i'm also going to want to leave room i want to build in a gap of about a about an eighth of an inch that i can silicone the finish okay so i got an eighth there i'm going to use a 1 8 grout line there all right and that is good so that's grout line grout line tile and what i want to do is i want to build this two tiles tall so we'll do that again all right so that's 22 and 10 11 12 8. which is 23 and 4 8 or a half that's the height of the finished tile off my deck all right so what i'm gonna do is i'm just going to mark that right here 23 and a half this is where the science gets really crazy if that's where my tile finishes okay then i want my box here to be built so that the tile that's on top of the box finishes at this height as well all right i know that sounds a little bit wonky but that's what we're going to do so i'm going to drop my laser level on this line right here so i can measure at this point and measure at this point to that line in space to create the perfect height box so that when i'm done i can take my wood dimension add my tile backer and my tile to have this tile line come all the way across a little preparation goes a long way in this environment and you also can cheat a little bit and take a hair off okay we have the ability to modify the finished height because i'm going to put the back on i'm going to put the top on and then i'm going to build down the sides right because i need this great line to come across and then whatever the gap is is what i'm going to use what i'll do is i'll do first tile second tile full tile we're going to cap this surface with the plastic edging and this surface with the plastic edging and then push the other tile up to the plastic edging so that it's consistent are you a superhero that one is 40 and 5 8 is our total height and then over here [Music] 41 and 7 16. well at least the bottom will look good like we'll have full tile full tile full tile and then like you know a half tile or something at the bottom that'll be fine you see how this is built out past the tub i'm going to do the same thing with the other box i'm going to build it to the end and then add another piece to get over top of the hardwood good now i can take a measurement because the outside walls can be sloped too so 34 34 and a quarter we'll call it all right so just to summarize because our wall isn't level or plumb and our floor isn't level you have to find an imaginary point out here and then this becomes your square all right that's why i use a laser line because i can draw a line off the existing and then i can use that as a mark and then i can draw another line and i can create an imaginary square point out here okay that's what i'm doing you got to think backwards because this has to be plumb and give the illusion that everything is square and level so if this point and your imaginary point here is out you're done you can't even start that's why we drew a line here so that the tile comes across that's why this is set to this height and then that's why we brought it out with a laser line across the front just to give everything the perfect illusion and then with that using that point i can measure back in every other direction okay so if you can just imagine it it's almost like somebody was sitting here going here's your spot there's the outside corner and then you can have somebody else measure from that corner in other direction it's the same idea but because i'm standing here alone i'm using a laser level all right hopefully that helps now i got my cut list i'm gonna go run my lumber and uh we'll screw this together some decking screws and mount the tub and get everything square and level yay um so off camera i just made an adjustment because the outside wall is tilted out when i screwed it together it screwed it wanting to stick this way so what it did is i took out the middle piece and i cut a two degree angle on this from here on this angle here all right and then i attached that to this board first and then over on this end i simply just raised it up and as i raised it the structure started to shift so i found a sweet spot it's almost an inch higher on this side and that's what caused it to lean so now it's installed it's perfect let's see if this looks decent oh that's close i feel like i got my measurement wrong here just eye here here's an easy solution to that problem one of the benefits of building with screws is if something's screwed up you can fix it you know i was working with an imaginary corner after all right there that's close enough to fix with the tile now we're square like it's important because when you walk in a room your line of sight you're going to see this line you're going to judge it based on the window trim and these types of things you know make sure you just take that extra moment and double check if you've got to make a repair make it you're building with screws it means you can take it apart and do it again this is an ikea furniture if you take a screw out the ball panel doesn't disintegrate it's just lumber right so let's just make sure we do that right um the next thing i'm going to do is i'm going to attach my tub to this cross section here so i'm going to add a quarter inch to my distance always pre-drill this hole this is fiberglass it's not going to stretch for you and it's not going to secure anything long-term unless you put a screw through a hole [Music] [Music] and then once i've got this in i'll be able to move the base until it's level this direction or plumb sorry god why is it as a canadian i'm always saying level instead of plum or is it just me because i'm from cambridge nice now we've got a situation where everything is attached i've got structure to the tub again i've got my hot and cold lots of flexibility here to hook up the tub and i got a nice deep cavity so that when i have my tub spout sitting here the shower there's like a wand shower extension that actually mounts inside the housing and the um the hose is inside the interior of the wall so that's why i just kind of went with a simple box then i left lots of room for that hose's dangle don't want to get it caught inside there later i'm feeling good okay and like most of the times when i'm working out of the top my head i make changes as i go which is good because it's good to know how to make changes um here's my rough-in fitting for my faucet for the tub it uh it weighs about six or seven pounds solid brass so if you want to know where to buy quality like this and not plastic then uh we'll put the information in the description okay what i'm gonna do is my back is gonna be two tiles tall we already established that but i'm not a big fan of how tall this is relative to the counter and i don't need the extra privacy and i don't need the extra space either because this is going to be easy to connect the fittings are going to go here my lines will connect and i can mount this as low as or high as i want so i'm actually going to make this section one tile high because i don't want to make the room feel claustrophobic so here's my tile here's my line that's my cutting point now the only thing you need to know now is that if that's where my finish is that needs to be the finish after my den shield right so i got to take a half an inch off okay and make it a healthy half an inch for pete's sake you can always pack on a little bit extra mud because when i'm tiling this i'll tile all the walls first and then i'll put the cap on last with the edging all right that makes it so much easier to do then that way i've got the ability to add the extra cement if i need it in order to create that build up but the tile will finish at this line i cut here add the dent shield tile on top i'm ready to go so now now it's time to set the blade there we go now i'm going to resize it and get moving forward all right guys when you're going to install the plumbing fixtures you always get paperwork now the information that you really want to know here is a the center of this fixture matches up with the center of the tub that's what that c is down here okay and then this is the tub surface and they recommend seven inches from the deck all right that's easy enough to do and then here's your depth setting you see here there's a finished wall that means after you're done the tile so this measurement here this thickness is lumber plus standshield plus tile all right don't get confused with that and the maximum depth from the finish to the back is three is three and seven eighths or three inch and the minimum is two and a quarter so what i'm going to do is take those two numbers now so my minimum is one and a quarter for my back plate because i get another inch of dense shield and tile okay so i'm going to measure off inch and a quarter that's my minimum that's as close as i can be forward which makes this stick out as far as it'll allow me and i don't like that because i have zero mercy now so i'm going to move it back a little bit more okay and i was up to three so i can go to two inch now look at this here this zone this is the safety zone for the install if it's back too far then the handle assembly is going to not go on properly this might run into rubbing and grinding issues so when i'm installing what i want to do is i want to measure my bracing right in the middle that's my safety zone okay so i'm going to put in a horizontal piece now it's at that point here it's just a little bit behind this plate now the trouble with my situation where i'm dealing with is i don't have the plumbing cut yet that's fine i'll just leave it out of the way i'll cut that later let's get that horizontal piece in first and on the other side and the good thing here is it's just about a quarter inch behind this right so i know it's right about there it's where i want to go and my two by six go something like this okay perfect that's just so that that end doesn't fall down while i'm screwing this in [Music] i'm just going to use this caulking line as my line and replace drywall with dense shield because it's just a tub i just want to make sure that this area here if there's any water setting it's not soaking it up into the wall from behind being a little paranoid but this is a great time to be a little paranoid [Music] now remember in another video i was talking about i was going to review these black blades i don't know i mean they work great i just don't know if they're worth paying extra money they seem to do the same thing the other ones do as far as i'm concerned there it is easiest way to describe this it's made by a drywall company but it's made out of fiberglass okay so if you think fiberglass pink or fiberglass yellow from 40 50 years ago was hard to work with this is nasty all right do not use any kind of power tool to cut with this okay that that'll get in your lungs so fast and you'll have to go to the hospital it'll drive you crazy but if you're careful handling it and you cut it and you install it and then you just go and wash your hands and arms under cold water you're going to be fine so just a warning there i hate to see somebody do something stupid and get sick they're new from corner to the middle and then from middle the other side here just so that we have something to screw it to okay you can scratch the front and then break it just like commercial drywall what makes it commercial the 5 8 stuff and fire rated is it's got the glass fiber in it well this is the same kind of thing only it's just it's like glass fiber on steroids right i mean it's just crazy and here we go as little dust as possible that's it you don't have to cut the back side right i'm going to make sure i got a factory edge down and i'm going to set it in my adhesive when i install this we've got to have a tile backer because we don't want to have our any of our a tile actually attached to wood right expansion contraction you've got to have something that you can tile on this is a guaranteed tile backer system it resists absorbing moisture if you leave it outside for weeks in the rain it's still relatively dry you know take it inside for an hour or two and it's good to go it is guaranteed as a tile backer for life residential installation and if you have ever seen the yellow panel on the outside of commercial buildings this is what they're using this is their weatherproofing system for us up here okay they just stick all this stuff cover the whole outside of the house there's no building material on the outdoor outside of commercial anymore that absorbs moisture so you got this outside of rockwool it's a great little system right nothing soaking up the water and then you've got steel stud so generally speaking any water that gets past the facade really has nothing to cling to it just drains to the bottom and runs out all right now i need my caulking gun here we go seal and bond okay um this is in canada down in the states it'll say loctite all right pretty sure they're the same company but some of these products have to have different names in different countries not exactly sure what the rules or eggs are for all that but okay now we're going to just set a nice thick bead here all right there's no better seal than just not having a gap available right walk right up to it we are going to absolutely fill this space here with sealant bond which is going to absolutely waterproof this joint okay so that no water that comes on the tub edge is going to have anywhere to pool so then after we put our tile in we can finish with silicone and we're going to be just fine just going to tool it in with another piece of leftover acrylic tubs you can't really get a good bond with silicone right and in this situation because my tub goes down if i don't fill that space water is going to sit there and whatever silicone i have on the surface is going to be rendered useless all right mix it all together you can't you can't have water sitting in the silicone it lifts it up [Music] and it goes right behind anyway it's good like as if it was never there this stuff is nasty to work with but it works right like that that really does work i know you're gonna be looking at that going wow that is the weirdest thing i've ever seen and you're probably right but the point is is i can't have the water sitting there because no matter what i use if the water gets in behind and sits there it's going to fail this will at least give whatever silicone i have a fighting chance because it's going to keep the water out all right now let's get the rest of this tub covered and we can get it tiled um of course we're going to show the plumbing installation in just a minute and i'll show you the finishing touches because i have to have a trap door at the end here as well because it's a jetted tub so you have to have access to the motor so the last panel that goes on over here we're going to show you how to get that mounted so that you can have that removable and then other than that you know put on the finishing trims and get this sucker all cleaned up we'll be good to go this product i chose rebel pro and if you're not sure where to find this product i'll put a link in the video description but it has a tub spout it has a removable shower wand so you can rinse down your tub and then it has a handle that's a thermostatic valve so you can adjust and pre-set your temperatures okay all you do is turn it on and you always get the same heat in the tub as you're used to so it's really simple you don't have to guess and add water and add cold add hot you just set it to where you want it set it and forget it right it's really sleek this is the the plate okay that goes on the wall i mean it doesn't get any better than that right that's going to be just so sexy okay let's get this going got all the functionality here i got this and here's the rio bell pro thermostatic valve system this is where you go to open this up or close it okay nice and simple what we want to do today is we want to get this mounted right here with this on the center line okay and then in order to do that i've got to make some room for my water lines right here and i'm just gonna use my sawzall instead of setting this up i bent my water lines out of the way so i'm not going to run into issues and i'm going to just be aggressive and get it done my battery's already dead probably not a big surprise i got one on the charger i'll be right back it's a funny thing about older tools or sorry older batteries because this is a brand new tool there's an older battery it just doesn't have the same oomph anymore so if you find your tools just underwhelming you don't throw out the tool go get new batteries you'd be surprised how much more life you can put into your tool i'm going to move that it's going to vibrate off and kill [Music] yeah that's close enough all right okay all right i just wish these came packs ready but you know there's only so much demand for this kind of product to make it copper ready or whatever disappointing okay now let's focus on this this is a half inch npt thread and that's half inch pex ready since the beginning of water supply in the history of north america we've been using half inch npt thread first on steel and galvanized pipes and now it's in brass and copper brand new fittings are still using the same thread size as plumbing that's in your house that's 140 years old so feel free to never have to be wondering what that fitting is going to be it's always the same darn thing all you need to know is if it's a male thread like this fitting or the female thread and you can do as much piping like this as you want to but you're going to want to use the teflon tape and you hold it with your thumb and you stretch it around the threads okay and there's a lot of thought and conjecture on this but bottom line is you put it on the same direction counter put on contrary to the direction you thread it in so it stays wrapped tight otherwise i don't know if this is going to happen but it'll all come loose you see when you're putting it in and then you don't have waterproofing here we go now nice and tight okay because once this is in the wall you don't get a chance to go and torque it again to fix it without taking your tile off so it's important when you're done this have your shutoff valve horizontal so it's closed all right turn the water back on pressure test it let it sit four or six hours overnight is even better because if it develops just a drip of water depending where you are like i'm on a really high quality water softener system i don't have any contaminants of zero parts per million in my water so it won't self seal you know with all the little crud that's in the line if you're on city water and you don't have a filter even a small drip will end up sealing itself now there's no rule as to how tight to put this on but i will tell you this if you've got anything left in your use it okay that's the only guarantee you got that it won't leak remember most of these threads and fittings have at least one component coming from an international supplier that may not have the highest quality standard of manufacturing so you don't really know what you're buying right i know that my my fitting here is actually manufacturing quebec so i don't have a problem that's canada folks we get great plumbing fixtures out of quebec if it's twisted up on you fix it you don't want to have a big knot on your threads here we go when i like three runs maybe four um because it's not just a sealant it's a lubricator and a sealant okay it fills in all the gaps so the water can't escape but it also lubricates brass on brass so that you can tighten it up more so that's finger tight okay and that's with the wrench and one of the ways you can tell if it's good is if they both have the same depth another quarter let's see yeah okay let's work now whoo that might just be me being paranoid but i'd rather be paranoid than have a leak okay yeah if you're not sure if you're strong enough to make that work get a longer wrench okay or even get this and put it in a vise grip on a table or something the longer the wrench the more torque you have okay so if you're small and tiny and you're doing your own plumbing just buy a wrench like a crescent wrench with an adjustable end so it can't slip off and get it with a good look at like a foot and a half long you can even take a big piece of pipe this isn't the greatest example but you can put that over the end and then you can really torque it from here old-fashioned science right the further away you are from the point the more power you have so that can make up for the difference there's a center line for you okay it's close enough ah sometimes you don't need a laser level now this right here because i read the instructions this goes on the center line that makes life really simple doesn't it okay and in order to have lots of flexibility in the pipe i'm gonna go just a little bit higher here and confirm my wall plate that that's gonna work okay remember end from the beginning now even i go all the way up to the top of this wood i still have enough room for this plate it's going to look a little silly so bring it down a couple inches all right so let's try this out yeah i'm really comfortable there i think we're gonna be fine okay so i want my water line to go to there and that tells me where to cut the pipes okay let's do this turned off the water i've drained the taps there should be nothing but air in here if i'm wrong max is going to drop the camera running downstairs just joking max you want to drop the camera hear the air rushing now the line's really draining if i was wrong i'd be having water all over the place now you can see i can push down a little bit to about here or i can lift it up to about here that's my mercy okay it's good to know what your mercy is when you're doing plumbing it's best to go with pushing it down from it contact and then if you have a problem or your crimp ring doesn't work or there's a leak or something you can then just yank it up and cut to the new line and reinstall okay you don't have to run a brand new one and i'm going to put pressure while i turn so that it cuts through clean without collapsing the pipe because if all i do see how round that is all right here's the other side all i do is crush it it ends up going oval on me okay that's a lousy example here let me just see how oval it can get all right before you cut it so depending on the condition of your cutter you don't want that you can't operate with the o-rings with that so twist while you're cutting so then when you go to put the o-ring on okay look how easy that is here's the oval side and gotta reform the pipe it'll drive you crazy okay so twist and cut makes the installation easy here we go slide it right on there now you give it a bit of a pinch so it doesn't slide down on you okay same thing i'm going to go like this find my mercy whoa now that was rude are you done okay there's always exceptions to every roll in there if it wants to slip just give it a bit of a squeeze so then it won't slip okay now put the hot in and the way you know this is in north america generally speaking hot's on the left if you are from quebec hot is usually on the right fascinating in it not sure why but that's okay just got to know the rules of the of engagement for where you live and okay now that that's done we're gonna go turn the water back on i have no idea if this is off isn't that fun so what i'm going to do is i'm going to put a set screw into this mount so when i turn the water on if it needs to be adjusted at least it's going in the right space right in the tub okay so the water can only come out here here at least at least that way we're protected in case might seem ridiculous but that's not a test cap that's the actual valve and if it wasn't installed in the closed position from the factory you know i have a ton of water firing out right now so ah good oh yeah okay nice let's get this in a place where we're all comfortable i think that's gonna be good now the way that we're going to find out if this is installed level is i'm going to put the plate on again okay because this is level when we're done if i can't get that in the right spot there's no sense installing it right beauty okay what a great time to add backups to the system now this is a great because they've got top mount top and bottom mount screws if your what is twisted you can leave a little bit of pressure on on the bottom let's say and then tighten the top and you because you really want this perpendicular off the wall we don't know yet do we the only way to check that out let's go back into the box here we this will be the one that tells the truth knowing the end from the beginning folks that's what life is all about great time to check out how this system works too okay all right two inches two and a sixteenth doesn't sound like much but i'm telling you right now in my experience that 16th is all the difference in the world because when you tile you have a gap at the top not in the bottom so there we go all right perfect every time all right so we're roughed in we know we're not leaking the only thing left to do now is take all of these fancy little doodads put them over top of your fixture there we go that's obviously for here this one's for here and what these do is they give you exact dimensions of where your holes go when you're doing your tile work and your wall board okay so you don't necessarily need it here for the wall board but it helps right you have something to mark too you can even get these lines top and bottom look at that these are 12 3 6 and 9 so that you can identify and measure to these grooves get your holes perfectly situated awesome now before i go further i still needed to put the four inch screws on the back of this to mount it to the floor we're going to take care of that i'm going to close the back of this wall up we have a treat in the shower we use a relatively inexpensive cement there's like 15 or 20 bucks a bag over here we're going to use a 45 dollar cement because in this situation i'm going to put the back two tiles on and then the rest of this tub i'm gonna tile from the top part and then go down and i'm using a cement that will hold the tiles in place so that i can build in the opposite direction that way because i have a slope on the floor i can have perfectly horizontal level lines all around the top and then build down and measure to the floor from each point and cut everything perfect this is good to know for an extra 25 bucks a bag you can get an ultra light white cement and i bought it at lowe's but it's not called ultra light it's just called lightweight mortar they change the package okay so we'll show you that we'll get through all that process uh i'm just gonna go put the back on now and show you how this is all done wrap it up and then i'm going to show you how to drop a center line so that you can balance this out okay there's no sense doing it yourself if you're going to do yourself in this is right it's diy not dyi if you can't make it look professional when you're finished you shouldn't even start because you're going to devalue the project and devalue your home all right all these little steps making sure everything's square and level and working from the center out and working from the top down these are the things that separate professional jobs from homeowners who are just experimenting on their home and you don't want to be one of those okay you want to do a really nice job so that when you go to sell people go wow the finishes in here are awesome okay first thing you're going to notice here guys is this hot and cold they're making contact if you're filling the tub that's a lot of hot water mixed with a little bit of cold water it's right over the hole so if it drips it's going to drip on the ceiling so let's uh keep them from making contact that's a great place to use a scrap piece of lumber problem solved all right now [Applause] i have got some leftover structural screws from my deck which are four inch long and they're going to be perfect i couldn't install the other day because i lost the bit that goes with them so now that i have that i'm going to drop this in there we go we're going to use dense shield on wrapping the whole thing and for the purpose of speeding up so we can get this filming done today before max goes and holidays i'm just going to put the back on show you how to drop your center line show you how to work from the top down and then we'll be able to kick him out of here and let him get on with this vacation okay he needs a break first of all the height of this thing is a little bit more than 16 inch on center ooh 28 so evil in a perfect world we could put an extra piece of wood on here but i don't really care because i'm using a fiberglass wall board panel that's incredibly rigid and then once i have cement on this and then porcelain tile on this the fact that there's no wood in the middle isn't going to mean nothing all right you'd have to drive a car into this to make a dent so we're not going to get too worked up over the minor details here okay remember i'm not in a shower here this is considered a dry area so we don't have those annoying rules that wet areas have to worry about we can be a little bit more free and creative okay now i could take the time to scribe the board but remember what i said about this this fiberglass board it's not nice to work with and so in order to make my life a little more simplistic i'm going to split the gap and just install the darn thing and if that bothers you it's okay there's different personality types in this world some people get worked up over the little things so if it bothers you then don't do that take the time scribe it wear a mask i am more of a get things done kind of fella so if it slows me down and there's a way to get around it then i will speed things up every time remember i'm covering this with one tile and then one tile right i is there's not a lot of grout and deflection happening there after that cement is cured in 30 days now i'm just going to come by and trim it all off right try to cut straight every time you never know when an off cut can be something you can use somewhere else try to cut measuring you could try and measure and cut this ahead of time instead just cut it like it's drywall in drywall we always just install it and then we trim it back all right and the only thing we have to worry about here now is making sure that it's not higher than the surface so the next piece of board goes on okay and you can use a rasp or you can just use your knife on the side all right here we go guys so i got this all wrapped now remember our premise here from the very beginning was to have two tiles high i got a couple of cutoffs here to show you that plus grout line okay which takes me to this height now my back wall will be two tiles all right and then this wall i want it to come right to here makes sense see that and when i lay it one on here that's fine but i have to start at the top get the top row in the back wall is key and then everything i build off both ends if i'm always working from this grout line and working down that all wraps around and all the lines will line up all the way across because we're also tiling the skirt on the front of the tub so i have no mercy i can't be different here than i am at the other end so this is where laser levels in and from the beginning and really planning out and having a proper process makes a big difference i'm gonna have to even level this here and then scribe the tile on the other end until i get that perfect angle and then i can mark the cut for this end there's gonna be a lot of work involved with this but if you want something sexy it's gonna take time and energy you can't just get sexy and cheap and easy right i mean ah there we go now the other thing i want to do is i want to get this front tile done because the back wall is on a bit of a slope out okay i want to be able to have that cut stone and angle up against the back and then cap it with something that's square i'll get a much better grout line there than if i put this on first and then try to scribe the line up to it anyway now i know that the back wall is going to be perfect i can actually start building this sidewall based on this grout line right here one thing i should mention before you're doing a tile job the larger the stone especially with porcelain the more prone to chipping and cracking they are in the corners okay handling this material is very difficult a lot of warehouses screw up on a regular basis when you get your boxes open up the ends double check okay set aside stuff that's damaged like this because it's really easy to use that in a place like this right nothing wrong with that haha okay so one of the benefits of having an alex in your neighborhood is he always cutting the grass when you're trying to make a video okay now this might seem crazy but what i'm doing here right now is creating temporary support for this tile so that i can scribe this end i gotta get this angle right first so let's just double check it okay make sure that this is good yeah this side needs to come up a little bit this side's nice and flush i don't have an accent here this is going to blow your mind but the head on this screw is a pan head so i'm going to lift the tile a bit [Music] set it on the pan there is my 16th of an inch that i needed bam perfect i've got the ability to scribe this line and it is as simple just taking my tile setting it beside it flat to the wall and drawing my line okay now i can run that through the wet saw bring it back up here and then mark where i want it to finish it's a little up and down the stairs but like i said if you want it perfect do what you got to do and make it perfect i had the angle wrong at the very beginning so i had to make an adjustment no worries that's what grout's for all right now i'm just going to use my square mark my spot there now i like to cut on the black mark because my tile cutter on the wet saw cut square and then this is all square and plumb i don't have to draw a whole line just to mark to get started like i mentioned this is a ultra light white this is a lot easier to work with than the cheaper cement it's expensive i know but look how easy it is to put that on it doesn't just drop off and land all over your feet right sometimes it's just worth it to pay the extra money now in this situation i need it specifically for the fact that i'm going to be mounting this tile on this wall and i need it to stick okay so we're going to show you a demonstration of how well this stuff works you get all the lines going the same direction we don't need to back butter because it's a dry space it's not a wet area here but if you want to take full advantage of the suction capacity and the holding power of the cement back butter your tile okay it helps to create the vacuum just fill in all these grooves okay here we go now what you do this is you want to set it quarter to half an inch higher than you want it all right and then collapse the ridges with pressure there we go now i'm going to use these screws just to make sure that it's not moving while it sets okay we're gonna work on the next one in about five or six minutes this will set up enough that i can pull the screws out it won't move it's a little ridiculous but that is the case i'm also going to want to set in my leveling clips at this point okay the rating on this tile for carrying 40 pounds is actually for on a ceiling okay it holds really well in the ceiling on a wall because it's a heavy stone still a little bit of sag you got to give it some setup time but this is going to work just fine okay now i get to do the same thing with the next tile bring it over get it scribed cut it and then we'll just build down knowing that now we've got a level plum perfectly spaced and everything in this entire bathroom can be built off of that back wall grout line all there is to do now is go to the time lapse and then we'll show you about grouting and finishing and sealing this up when you're done so you're not going to get mold developed later oh but before the time lapse let's just talk about dropping the center line and how to set up your marks so that you're always working from the middle and then left and then right from that center line this will make it perfect all right so what we're going to do instead of measuring the totality of this structure we have two options we can go center of the tub or center of the structure i'm going to let you decide what you want to do in that on here i have a two by six wall here i have a two by eight wall the line is gonna be so close it won't be funny if i'm out an inch and a half here on the tub it's gonna look really out of balance from here to here versus here to here so i'm going to go over the interior of the tub i always found that's the best way to go about it and that is 65 inches on the inside right because this is an extra size so 65 and a half 32 and a half let's get something here that i can make a measure with okay now i'm just going to drop a laser line on it there we go this represents my grip line so there you go now i've got a line to measure okay so i can measure from here to this point right in the middle of that tile remember over here i'm going to be putting a plastic edging so i gotta leave room for that plastic edge because i'm gonna finish at that point and then the top tile will also sit flush at that point and it'll be about there and then there'll be a plastic edging on it as well so this is how we figure it out right in this middle of this tile is my line okay so now i can take this measurement and i can install that tile and then i can take this measurement to the wall and i can install that tile nice and simple okay so we've got our our faucet fixture finishing here and all laid out generally you want to go through all the instructions first and then double check that you've got all the right little tools and gizmos okay the little allen key for the set screws comes in the package and so we're just going to go through the assembly system here there is a little ring here that is going to be used as a locking pin for the plate okay so this is actually going to get connected by three different functions and all three of them have a different way of putting pressure on the plate to hold it tight to the wall so it's going to look really amazing when it's done but here we go let's just step one this is brilliant there's gonna be a little hole in the tube that always at the front just in case any water finds its way in here that's all that's for okay nice and simple now there's also this ring here and this one threads on go backwards until it sits nice okay that is going to give you a nice look and it maintains a gap so you don't have rubbing okay now there is part of this locking system for here is this little piece really peculiar okay and it has it's a set screw that's the functioning side and it faces down and it actually gets set into the trim and then after it gets done you can push on the plate and set the screw into this okay because this is pulled forward against this locking nut okay so you can create pressure now we're going to slide this all into place okay great we'll get to that later first we're going to take this piece stick it back on and this is to create the pressure here right okay there we go now it's in place but it's not creating pressure so i'm going to use my screwdriver to turn this threaded piece into the valve body until i get my pressure that i'm looking for right there's no more movement there we go awesome don't use pliers because these two little washers on the top here they need to be in perfect condition you got to protect them that's why we had the covers on while we were tiling you protect these washers so that all these little nuances actually end up working for you now here's our fitting piece you can see there's a washer in here that's good that's what we're going to need because the hose has a threaded end so we have a washer it means we don't use tapered or goo okay it keeps it nice and clean we slide this on all right and then there is a set screw and generally it will take a few turns when you feel it getting tight that's good to go one more turn now what i want to do is make sure this is nice and level okay good that was done this is the tub filler amazing it actually has two set screws not one that's some that's intense okay again it just slips right on and then we're going to tighten up those screws good it's almost too easy on it okay now this particular handle the real bulb pro line that we're working with this smooth part of the valve body is actually the handle the part that turns to turn the water water on or off oh boy i did it didn't i boy ah yep i forgot to turn the water on whoops so i forgot um i have to open up the hot and cold water lines as part of the valve body first i'm doing this out of order i almost forgot i've done this before right in here both of those set screws have to be pointed vertical instead of horizontal you don't have any water coming up new modern valves have got accessibility like that built into the design so be really careful with that okay and we're back so now i'm caught up to where i should be now we can put the handle on as i was saying you've got two set screws here so make life easier put it in position and then slide it on okay and then you turn the bottom until you make contact not too tight okay and then you can go sideways like this and get some good torque ability okay really want to dent that set screw into the brass okay now we got control good okay now this is for our thermostatic valve okay this one here just slides right on and again it has a set screw this sets your temperature what you want to do is in this scenario you can take this allen key and you can release the set screw okay and you can change your temperature all the way hot and all the way cold so look at the look at the variation there right so if you like a really hot tub you can just kind of dial it back a little bit and reset it so it always is up and down at the temperature you like okay so you don't have this you know sitting weird looking so we're gonna just dial that back just like that a little bit and we're just gonna set the screw in here for now and then when we're all done we'll get the water running and then we'll check to see where we'd like to have it sitting now let's deal with the hose hopefully watching this video you guys all realize that plumbing is not all that tricky you should feel empowered to be able to do this on your own this is the end that goes in here remember there's a washer in that we'll just thread that in now i'm going to do a water test to see if doing this finger tight makes enough compression with that gasket or if i have to get a wrench i'm going to set it on there i'm pretty sure that that's going to be enough for the washer that came with the kit goes in here and we're going to simply connect up here now the secret here is to adjust this hose okay so that it's comfortable hold it with your fingers hold the top with your other fingers and now tighten so you're not twisting the hose into a kink okay you're gonna have to run this a couple of times until you get it where you want it yeah that's pretty nice i like that okay now before we put all of our caps on okay i've got two here one for the top and bottom here we're gonna get out of the way a little bit and we're gonna test this out okay here goes everything okay okay well here we go we have got a problem houston now that might be something really simple but it might be something not so simple we'll find out okay so let's just make sure we got water coming through yeah that one's working so that goes to the middle that's off and then that goes to that tub that's all the water i got it's just a dribble that's supposed to be the hot side i guess so that's about the highest flow rate that i'm going to get to fill the tub [Music] so my problem here is i didn't i didn't have my cold line open all the way and this thermostatic valve works different than the showers i've worked with the the functionality here is the handle turned this way turns on the middle which is the wand the handle turned this way turns on the tub faucet okay and this is your temperature setting all the way to the left was cold water and it's only designed to mix a little bit of cold water in so with the valve being half open and all cold there was no water coming through so once i open the valve properly and then i adjusted this to the hot okay so now it's under full pressure it's working great so now i've got where i want now i can close this up it kind of makes sense you know to make sure that your water and temperature and everything is perfect before you move forward kind of put cart before the horse there all right yeah there we go that's working that's really nice and then beautiful now the only thing left to do here is get my almond silicone out dry up my areas and do all my joints okay now i'm using the almond caulk all right it's a silicone product we're going to do it anywhere i have tile intersecting tile or tile intersecting the tub and it was going to work this easy now i'm just going to put a small bead everywhere smooth and wipe as i go this is going to be beautiful actually before we go any further i got to install the trapdoor all right the beautiful thing about velcro guys this is basically what i'm doing and it's gonna kind of guestimate as long as i'm anywhere close when i put these on we're gonna have great contact huh of course the way that you take that out when it's time you grab one of those cute little yellow suction cups that they sell at the home depot you just stick it on close the handle pop it out when you need to that one's done how to say it out of mind all right now that the trap door is done let's just get back to finishing all the silicone work guys if you like this kind of videos give us the video thumbs up and don't forget to subscribe to the channel if you're new to home renovation diy now for those of you who aren't aware i'm in my master bath in my 1880s farmhouse we're almost done renovating the entire project top to bottom this is the last major project this is remodel and we're doing about a six or seven part video series on remodeling a bathroom so make sure you subscribe to the channel hit the like button if you like learning how to do this kind of stuff yourself so you can make a ton of money [Music] now what i just marked here is my four foot line okay because i'm going to be cutting out four feet of drywall and the reason i'm cutting out four feet of drywall well that's the size of drywall at the store so i'm going to make my life simple by cutting the hole the same size as the sheet that i need to buy to cover up the hole when i'm done makes sense so that's going to be my hole and i'm going to make it almost the entire six feet okay and i'll tell you why because right now i've got my plumbing stack here and the vent goes up when i change the plumbing and i have two drains i also need those vents to go up and then travel across and reconnect with this venting higher than the sink if it was full of water to guarantee that i'm always going to have fresh air coming to that drain if i connect too low i can eventually fill up the fresh air venting system with water and then i'm in a whole heap of trouble so this is why i'm going all the way up to four feet it makes no difference if you patch a big hole or a small hole it's the same amount of work all right so just give yourself lots of room to work and you'll save yourself time in the end now i'm going to show you two different techniques for cutting if you have a drywall cutout tool it's a lot faster but most people don't buy tools specific like that for their diy home projects this is a saw this is like 12 bucks okay and you can cut drywall with it the secret here is you can also cut your electrical and your plumbing supply with it so you want to be really careful you're only cutting with about an inch and a quarter inch and a half all right one of the tips you can do is you can take a black marker and just mark the blade so when i'm cutting and when that black disappears i know i'm going too deep and then you'll get a feel for it plumbing electrical code requires that everything is recessed in the wall an inch and a half okay so you're not going to accidentally cut things this way or if you don't want to waste all day long with the saw you can buy yourself an olfa knife follow our link in the amazon in the video description and you can just set this to an inch and a quarter now most drywall is only half an inch thick and you can just pull line through it usually by the second pass you've gone completely through and don't worry if it takes you three or four it's just experience talking [Music] all right this isn't about being perfect this is about getting most of it the first time you'll notice that when you get near the end when you start pulling the drywall apart there's always going to be areas that you don't get cut right because there's screws to the wall just bumped into wall studs there and it's not going to slow you down [Music] and the other side now catch my breath a bit around your electrical take a pair of pliers or a hammer disengage the drywall around the box so that everything comes clean all right and then get the first corner out of the way this is not something where we're trying to save this material okay that'll drive you nuts just want to reach in here shake it so all the drywall screws pop through the paper and then they just rip out the other side okay be gentle around your plumbing there we are so now that i've got the wall open it's time for me to make my material list hey i'm going to change these fittings on the pegs these are old crimp rings and we're going to go to the solid ring it's a lot better plumbing and i'm going to need tees so i can run the hot water in two different directions and tease for the cold water run that in two directions i don't have a lot of room to do that so for whatever reason this is a two inch pipe i'm gonna cut this out a big section of it i'm gonna change it to inch and a half that'll give me room to run my my plumbing line through the wall to the other side i'm gonna put a t up here okay and we'll find the location later i'll bring it down and then to the drain same thing okay over here and so we'll end up cutting this out and putting in a a t that goes in two different directions bring it out to this way and then bring venting up and off and reconnecting venting up top piece of cake really the secret isn't having enough space to know exactly what's going on so that you can make one trip to the store buy all your supplies and not be surprised as their job progresses this will be a piece of cake [Music] now that i got my measurements know exactly what i'm going to be doing here let's just go over the changes to my plant originally my plan was to take the drain and vent system here and tee off in both directions and install the vanity basically where the hole is cut out now now that we've worked on the tub and got that other thing the water out of the way the room feels so much bigger it just seems wrong to not center this on the wall so instead of using this okay and converting one here so that we can bring our drain left and right and one up here to reconnect the venting i'm going to maintain this system right now and i'm going to just cut it here and bring another drain over to this location all right and i'm going to be making this the center of my my wall and the center of my vanity okay so that means i've got to bring hot and cold to within three inches of the drain on each side to fit the back of the vanity and i've got to run all everything over tee it all off to do it again over there so i got to open up a little drywall i'm going to unscrew these boxes get them up out of the way because i'm going to do this really simple i'm not going to drill a bunch of holes for the wood simply going to take out my skill saw and cut my lumber and notch it out and put on some great big steel plates afterwards to protect the wall because this is not structural this is the benefit of interior walls you can cut them back to almost nothing and then just slide your plumbing in it's an easy diy system i think you're going to like what i'm going to do all right so first thing let's disengage the electrical there we go and then we'll mount these up and out of the way and that looks like there yeah there's wood there there we go now now this is out of the way right it's perfectly safe everything's still screwed together but i don't have to worry about anything because remember when you're renovating you start with the things that are the least flexible like duct work then you move on to your your drain and your venting then you do your electrical okay so if any of that's in your way get it out of your way same thing with the water lines i'm going to do the drain and the venting first and then the water supply always make sure that you've got the ability to be flexible right you don't want to be committed to doing something stupid all right so before i go and cut the water line and i have no recourse but to hold my thumb on it and scream for help i'm going to just try this slow and see if there's any water pressure left in this line pretty sure i turned it off and opened up the faucets i got busy talking to max let's find out of course that's just be silly wouldn't it here we go we're going to cut back here because we don't want to have nothing to do with this old style of plumbing we're upgrading okay ah now these are shark bites so i'll be able to save them for later we're not using them again after the fact we're going to put um pex caps on everything so we'll just reuse these later some other day for an emergency now here we go this is perfect i love this height this one comes through the stud it's going to be really awkward for me to try to make any changes so i'll have to tee off from here and that will be all right according to my measurements from my center line which is now here and 20 and a half is a perfect location for my drain really really close here so we're going to just call that perfect because i can do that okay and then 20 and a half from here so i got to get to just the other side of that brown mark all right so if i go two feet let's see yes one sheet of drywall will fill this hole perfect okay so let's just get on with it [Music] and the way i draw that line is i'm actually lifting with my knees and holding my arm straight and just standing straight up it usually works pretty darn good okay okay 20 and a half oh that's to the center i didn't go over far enough all right we're going to go add another few inches i'm going to cut this pipe at about three quarters of an inch so i can set this over top okay that's a female end and i need to cut my pipe here and here all right and then because it's a drain i've got to go that's level and i'm going to go a little bit off level one degree it's almost two inches wide because the inch and a half refers to the interior dimension okay that's the diameter of the inside of the pipe inch and a half exterior is almost two inches so i can make my life simple and just put this on that existing line and make a mark here we go and then when i cut i'm going to cut on the inside of each of these lines okay that way my pipe will fit in that groove and the plate that i buy will be big enough to go over top of the hole now we also have venting we're going to tie in for venting up here somewhere yeah let's do this nice and tall and mark that pipe here same thing only different only this one we're going to have a downward slope and the reason for that is when you put this pipe on and you've got this curl there is rainwater and that sort of thing that can work its way into the pipe okay so if i haven't a slope this way it'll actually get trapped in here and i don't want water sitting in here so we're going to slope it this way because it can come down and then i can follow this drain and then go down there again that made any sense i hope it did so we're going to go level and then downward slope okay there we go that was the math not too tricky at all once you see it coming together right okay so the secret to cutting a pipe is a small reciprocator i would prefer to have a smaller blade even okay what you want to do is you want to hold steady and then you want to shoot a little bit through like crazy but this close to the stud i've got all kinds of issues i don't want to cut backwards upside down i don't want to go in the other wall so what am i going to do i'm going to go get my multi-tool i know every six months i pull it out for just a minute and a half okay so now i got my multi-tool and because i'm a genius my power is still engaged oops genius can't fit in a plug now you know i should show you because honestly these are a couple hundred bucks right and if you're doing a diy project at home and you're not you don't have tools like this there's another option i'll show you one you go to the hardware store and you can ask them for a abs or pvc pipe saw it's a wire saw kind of works like this the wire goes around behind okay it's got rings on it it's kind of like from an old movie where someone's sitting in the back seat but they don't check the backseat when they get in the car and then the guy leans over and he chokes you to death right well the wire saw works like this and you just hold those rings and go back and forth you can slice through a pipe in any situation for six bucks all right so there's a great diy solution there i used to have one god only knows what happened to it most of my tools end up in the garbage because well my kids work with me and now we can go have some fun [Music] yeah the pipe's got a little bit of flexibility out there nice i got a trick for you there's a lot of play here and i don't know why so what i'm going to do do an old trick that plumbers told me one time when he was doing a galvanized replacement pipe situation okay so what he did is he took this the all-round strapping that you can buy at the plumbing store okay and he went like this and he wrapped the pipe and he threw a screw into a stud and what it does is when you cut the next piece of pipe it holds it where it is so it's not moving around because you don't want to do your plumbing cut your pipe and have whatever's sitting up top let's say it's a it's teed up and it goes across the room right it's not supported properly and then it comes down and then you go and do your measurement now you've got potentially you've screwed up the slope and what's going on in the attic you don't do that so strap your pipe connect it to the wall and then you can go [Music] it's like giving a kid a haircut around his ears there we go and when you're done this it makes a mess okay so you're going to want to just take a knife and cut all of these birds off because really a vibration tool like that it doesn't cut as much as it melts so it's like a bunch of candle wax all around the pipe okay so cut back all these burrs inside the pipe as well because this is going to be a drain okay so we don't want to have that rough stuff sitting there to catch all the hair up top it's on the vent so it doesn't really matter be careful with this right pay attention to where the knife is going to go if it slips now what i'm about to do should not be possible because i can't find one and a half inch abs anywhere in ontario don't know why stores are out all my suppliers are out can't find it but through the power of me being a hoarder i still had a couple of lengths sitting in my shed and you're damn right i kept that shed locked all year building materials if you have something rare they're a real commodity so i've got this and i've got a couple of six footers so i'm going to be okay to just do all this an inch and a half which is great if you're stuck and you want to do this project right now and you can't find one and a half you're allowed to use two inch pipe and fittings okay what you need to do is do this at some point you're going to have to go to inch and a half in order to do your p-traps and everything else so you're going to have to scrounge up a couple inches of this stuff if you open up your wall you might already have one and a half inch from here going up cut it out switch to two and use this pipe so that you can put your stems on for your new p-traps okay because you can use a conversion like this from two to one and a half or you can get a two inch coupler okay and this is called a bushing and it's two inch insert and then one and a half goes inside of that those are your options okay so you can convert from one and a half to two anywhere you need i am using this which is very common in in the building store it's a two inch drain inch and a half here and an inch and a half here and the reason for that is it's very very common that the drain coming off of the sink is also the vent for other things in the room so a lot of times this is what we'll see okay boom right like this and this is actually the vent for the shower or the tub or a toilet or something else in the room so that's why if it's going to be a drain and event it needs to be a two inch pipe that's why we have it so if you have to do everything in two inch pipe and then just convert so you can have inch and a half stems that way you've got the right plumbing you can do that let's call thor and have them open up the damn plumbing cap if you don't have a cheap pair of four dollar wrench you're not getting these open you know i don't care who you are this this is just tough now uh we're putting in a new floor so i don't care if i get this all over the place i'm going to try to be careful but i'm ahead of myself i haven't cut my hole yet slow down jeffrey slow down let's check our battery power no worries let's check our depth remember my pipe is two inches i'm not not enough yet let's try that to two inches two and a quarter i like that two and a quarter is good all right so we're going to cut everything at two and a quarter hopefully this all works yeah let's see how that works okay now on my saw i took my my cut line the zero line and i put a black marker on it all right it helps make it really easy to identify when you're cutting because i got black marker on the wall i got black marker here my life just got really simple i put the black mark on the black mark [Music] yeah perfect every time [Music] and this is how we release the stud of the burden of that chunk of wood nice and easy and now we've got a nice place to run our pipes yep yep perfect time for the glue no mask required all right you want to glue the fitting and the pipe okay this is not really glue we call it glue it's a solvent and as such you want to actually melt both the fitting and the pipe so then when they meet they meld together [Music] then i actually get that just a hair off eh dang dab it okay we're going to connect this first okay well we have the luxury of being able to move everything up and down and this is going to be a 19 inch piece of pipe what i generally do when i'm dealing with this pipe is i'll measure and cut to a place where i know i'm going to see the printing 19 inches is right right between the 28 we haven't seen any of our plumbing videos before this is just a it's a pipe cutter it's only for inch and a half abs it has a little bit of a tooth on here so you're going to want to set the middle of the the middle of the fixture where your 19 mark is and that's right between the two and the eight twist and pull and then that's that easy all right the other advantage of this is it doesn't cause burrs it's no melting it actually cuts the pipe so ah we got to be a little quick with this again you want to melt the pipe on both ends okay i've set it [Music] forget it step one complete we want to come across here to 20 and a half from my center mark that's where i'm at my drain so that's going to be long enough that's good okay so the first thing i want to do is take a marker and mark the center line on the back of that wall so 20 and a half this is 17 so i got to go three and a half okay so this is my center line all right so now i've got a piece that's going to be long enough i got a center line i have to get my fitting now what i'm using is a t okay it's okay to use a t in a wall coming off the off the faucet make sure that the water is flowing in the right direction all right and it's going to go here it's not just going to go there the center of this pipe is going to go on that center line okay let me just go and check wow that's that's basically right off the wood that makes it easy to measure so i need because i'm going to be here i want to have three quarters of pipe for inside the fitting three quarters plus to the inside of this fitting 36 and a half okay 36 and a half is between the f and the six here's my tool there's my line and when you cut it you're better to cut it just a hair short all right these fittings if it's in that far and it's it's square it's still going to work it's better to work until it's right all the way in to get it all the way in actually requires a fair amount of glue once the adhesive is on there or the solvent then it works together much better now what i'm going to connect here is to save a fitting this is called a street 90 okay because this end is big enough for an inch and a half pipe to go in and this end is inch and a half pipe and so it's a fitting that goes right in the end okay so i'm gonna put these two together before i get started if it's on the floor it's so much easier to get that 90 degree angle all right we're going to put that in first okay the thing is is that it's tendency to want to sit low so now i'm going to take some of this all-round strap i'm going to glue that end i'm going to take some strapping and tie this up nice and tight to maintain my drain if you're doing a plumbing job go and buy a coil of this stuff it's five or six bucks um there's so many uses it's just crazy right you're gonna you're gonna just thank me because sooner or later you're gonna run into a situation like oh i wish i had the all around just get it now here's how you cut all around your electrical side cutters okay right there that's it done okay so now we're ready with that i've got a screw here because we're doing that one under pressure we'll do this joint first now while it's still setting up that's the time to do this okay put the screw through one piece through another piece don't even worry about it because what we're gonna do is we're gonna screw this on an angle okay see that and that's just gonna keep on pulling until we get it set right where we have maximum torque done everything's out of the way okay yeppers now we're good to go okay make sure you angle straight up if you're not sure stick a piece of pipe in it make sure it's not sticking out like this before the before i hear solvent sets okay you got a little bit of mercy here you got a few minutes all right now we're in the right direction next thing we're going to need six inches no solvent here just push it in make sure while you're at the store you buy one of these they come in blue as well okay um different plumbers use them for different things for me orange means that it's attached and blue means that it's not attached but i have a free one so i'm going to use it it's up to me to remember that that's not glued when i come back later what if i need this to come out just a little bit further for the sink you don't know until you know so leave it alone test cap it always when you're removing a test cut check to see if the pipe is attached it's just a really good habit all right in case you didn't do that joint you'll get everything installed and you'd be like oh look at that there's a little bit of water in the bottom of the vanity you'll think it's a water supply or the taps or something it's just a little drip coming out of here because it's just not quite snug enough without the adhesive i keep calling it adhesive and if you're in the comments going it's solvent man it's solvent then that's fine i guess you know you wouldn't be surprised how many times people have yelled at me in the comments because it's plum not level well i'm canadian okay we're a little weird let's just make sure that this is right you know the old expression everybody says a jack of all trades eh well that's not the expression the expression is a jack of all trades is better than the master of one because he's more confident on the job site all right let's take a piece of pipe here and mark the center line boom all right draw the line up great that was easy this pipe's going to come across right probably around there there we go okay so here is my intersection okay so boom there's the inside corner all right so this is the mark that i'm going to measure to make sense so now i'm going to measure from here to here and that comes out to be 17 and three-quarters always write down a measurement and then i'm going to go from here boom looks like above 40. now when i'm doing this i don't have a lot of flexibility here right so if i put this pipe in and i glue it there and then i glue this here see now i'm limited i don't really have enough room here to stick them on so what i'm going to do is i'm going to put this pipe in and i'm going to put this pipe in and then slam it over okay just always think about your installation and pick the easiest connection to be the last one okay it's not always just come all the way back to here maybe there's not a lot of flexibility just look for the opportunity to say that's the easiest connection yeah this is the best device i can give you you're on your own you got to figure it out because this is venting we can use these sharp 90s okay because it's mostly air if this was drain pipe because we only have drain from here down this is drained but a sweeping tea is okay you're supposed to go with really big 90s now world has changed really big 90s so if you're getting your plumbing inspected make sure you put in big sweeping 90s or 245s or they will give you some serious heck and make you do it all over again it's kind of funny you know because back when plumbing first started there was code there was rules and then uh the rule was inch and a quarter pipe for a drain galvanized yeah crazy and then they found out after i don't know you know 30 40 50 years wow this really doesn't work anymore the drains stopped functioning because of all the corrosion and the fact that the water supply in people's homes was cast iron water supply so then they changed everything they got new building materials and they changed the code and then since then they've changed the code and made so many modifications bottom line is when it comes to plumbing um the longer it sits on a wall the less it'll work for you there's no escape you're gonna run into problems so if you're still following uh 1970 or 1980 building code and you're not getting inspected that's between you and god but the truth is most of the latest upgrades unless you're getting inspected aren't necessary to even follow you didn't hear that from me here we go 17 three quarters gonna double check looks good to me i'm gonna go to 18. you know i got a piece that's still 18 inches there we go folks the last piece of abs pipe left in the city of ottawa i'm taking 18 inches off it's almost painful to watch it's like eating an endangered species for dinner there we go call me if you want them okay [Laughter] can the world just go back to work please again we're going to be quick here before everything sets [Music] all up and snug is a bug and a rug okay there's our waste and our venting finished and tied in we're now done with the good stuff okay don't do that at home kids all right here we go now remember earlier i mentioned if you need to you can go with two inch pipe everywhere the danger of that is is that two inch pipe is actually two and a half inch so you lose a lot of space so you gotta really pick your battles as to where you're gonna put your water lines um the challenge with notching in the front is now my water line's gotta go on the back side but i can't put metal plates back there so i really got to be careful not to go too deep and there we go check this out slow speed middle speed [Applause] and high speed pretty cool huh i showed you that in case you only have uh the finances to buy one drill right now that's the one to get we did a video where i showed the differences and all the flexibility of the impact driver so i'll link that um it was in our subfloor series i think remax video description or check the cars [Music] the reason i want to maintain this three inch rule is because the cabinet has already got a cutout in the back of it and i don't want to have to add the drilling holes in the cabinet because this looks cheesy right rather have all the holes coming through the drywall nice and clean come through that little slice that they've got built out so take the time to always measure off your cabinet don't just assume you know we'll set it at 18 or 20 and then within a few inches it takes time this is important now to tee off and this is why you always open it up on day one make a list of everything you're going to need and then go shopping and uh buy a couple of extra of everything because you can always take them back right um and when you're doing plumbing feel free buy couplings get a couple couplings of every pipe size you're working with all right if you mess up a measurement and you don't have enough pipe to finish you can always use a couple couplings to cut a pipe stick it on stretch it out a little bit all right or make an adjustment and you can add two small pieces together with a coupling to make it work so these are like these are gold because they're like 69 cents they can save you an hour long trip back around to the store and that'll cost you like 10 bucks in gas so while you're at the store spend the 69 cents and have it on hand i want to get our solid copper rings and then our i want a tee this way here i'm going to feed this through the back side with the pipe already crimped on and then i'm going to roll it and then i'm going to cut it and then i'm going to attach it and then i'm going to grab a stub out here again we're going to go find my tools about 8 inches eight inches just seems to be the perfect depth whenever you're doing a stub out guys all right now with pecks of course leave your quarter inch while we're at it as we'll put on our cap okay this is gonna be the biggest challenge of the day getting this pipe in that hole there we go down over and out okay step one i it's nice to have a rule if you're gonna put the fitting in then crimp it all right don't start moving forward until you've dealt with because there's really visually it's very difficult to identify a crimped ringer or non-crimp ring until the water's on that's the wrong time to find it so if you put it on crimp it eight inches stub out here and we'll stick that on okay there we have it water supply for our first sink within three inches of the center line no problem right if you're worried about the location of it you can always grab a little bit of string and just tie them closer together okay and then when we come along with our drywall we'll have it locked in place so then you can rotate all three holes slide it over nice and clean now this is gonna be the tricky one all right so it turns out the best thing for me to do is actually drill new holes and then just bring it across up and out and i'm gonna use this special fitting here to bend the pipe if you got to make a turn you want it supported for the pipe will break okay so let me demonstrate you just bend it across the metal and it locks in and this piece here this bridge keeps it from crimping it won't bend in half and kill your water supply okay they're like 89 cents if you're gonna do plumbing get them all right worth their weight in gold so in this scenario i'm just gonna connect it and then i'm just gonna drill new holes that's the easiest way for me to just move forward anything else is just going to be a thousand fittings and i'm not in the mood for a thousand fittings fantastic all right now i'm just gonna let you know i've finished my running through i'm going to do a water pressure test now because you want to make sure you test your line before you close it up there is a special tool uh it's a gauge you can buy and you can go around and set it on every one of these crimps and make sure that it's been crimped that's how you tell the difference i don't have the tool on me i got it with the package i've never used it like i said i got a rule if i touch it i crimp it right so i know some guys will do the whole thing put it all together and then they'll come by and look crimp it all but that's not me um i'm happy just to do what water test i'm feeling pretty confident about this and it's a lot more exhilarating to do a water pressure test if you're not sure if you got it all crimped all right there we go let's just run through this again i got drain hot and cold within three inches okay that drain is higher but this one is actually a couple inches lower than normal it's 20 inches as normal this one is at 21. which is a little above normal so what i do is this the p-trap for this drain i'm going to use this collar attachment all right so this is a one and a quarter interior for sinks and this fitting sits right in the bottom of that p-trap all right that is a perfect way to get uh drain assembled if you're a little bit high if you're a little bit low same thing over here okay but this one is an exterior pipe dimension so then you cut the piece of pipe to fit there you go that's all we need to know so you can buy the male or the female version of that same fitting and then when you thread it on the pipe it gets nice and snug and water tight pressure test all right here we go okay max are there any drips forming anywhere nope no any hissing nope okay i'm gonna go full blast we're good perfect every time and we're back okay so for everybody who uh wants to see me do a pressure test well it's pressurized what i do is i just give max a call on my phone and he just visually inspects this while i turn on the water we wait about 10 to 15 seconds to pressurize the lines in the house we're good to go and like i said with this kind of crimp if it's not leaking now it never will okay there's no question it's only one kind of pressure full on so now we don't have any concern because there's no degradation in that seal you can even freeze that and it'll maintain its seal it's a miracle so i love this stuff all right guys there we go okay so now that i got the drywall on just want to mention real quick if you want to learn tips and tricks for doing drywall in weird situations and creative solutions to problems we'll put a link in the video description and the card over here um it's one of our top videos guys okay millions people have viewed it and love it and there's lots of great information there so if you haven't seen it check it out well you're just going to move ahead now it's time to grab the vanity and get it in place okay we want to actually set it in position and then from there we're going to be able to get perfect measurements for where all of our lights and our mirrors are going to go and we can sort out all of that information with the stud finder come up with a plan and then i got to drill some holes fix the wiring over here shouldn't be too big a deal cool okay good and and size down this went by a lot easier than i thought nice okay now we're going to bunny hop it over about a foot and a half now you see the holes in the plumbing for the walls looks dead center already so it's a 71 35 and a half if anything i'm a 16th off yeah done all right the only thing we're going to have a problem here matt is uh there's a really bad slope on the floor [Music] so let's get the level in here we'll see how much of a slope we have overall okay can you lift that end boat that much a little bit more keep going until this level's out look at that we're looking at an inch and a quarter we'll set it right on the right on the head okay [Applause] [Music] i wish life was always this simple okay all right [Laughter] okay can you drop the um the foot pedal on that corner i'm just trying to figure out which way is the right way that is the right way okay there we go we're back to level again okay that's the one i wanted now we got to go get the sink countertop set that in place because if you're like me your visual person and it's a lot easier for me to map out what to do here with my mirrors and my lights and what how i'm going to fix the wiring tomorrow once i've got the countertop in place right beside somewhere to put my tools yep and then then we'll worry about rolling it down afterwards okay all right we're going to use the shims to help us set it down and then manipulate it okay so up into more in the middle that's good watch your hand it's in a lousy spot get the shimmer on the outside corner can you hold the uh well here tilt well here if you move the chimney okay now this thing should roll pretty good even if we're just off the front okay if you know what i mean so there is about a half an inch overhang on each side we can lift a little bit come on yeah okay okay now you can see that yeah now come right flush to the front yep okay now we should be able to just roll it in no put your hand inside the sink and then fingertips on the outside corner yeah i got it yeah i'm here on the on the right side yeah not on the back okay all right you know what hold on let's go back up you can hold it like this yeah okay there's a lip inside the sink i'm just going to squeeze out nice and easy now take the shim in the middle please mine take the shim on your end okay so i am quarter to 3 16. yep that's perfect oh now it's perfect okay this is a 72 inch countertop 36 nice what do you think i think we did a good job i think it works like there's room to stand here and open the drawers i got three drawers downstairs let's just get them in okay um less things laying around on the floor the better okay so once you bring your vanity up guys the before you put your countertop on make sure you level it all off right so corner to corner back front going in three different directions with a shorter level this way there's a lot of different ways you can balance this in and depending on your floor and your conditions in your home you might even have to cut the feet like i did all right so that's fine do what you got to do but make sure that the the place that people see the most prominent corner looks the best and then make all your adjustments everywhere else if you need to leveling feet cutting the legs whatever you got to do but you want this to be level and you want it to be flush to the wall you don't have a gap opening up okay and then we're in a great position now i can get my laser line out and i can draw a laser line off my sink faucets and draw my center lines for my mirrors and then i have a line that i can measure from to open up the wall and move my electrical around gonna be a piece of cake all right guys so what i'm doing is i'm drawing a laser line here i want to have it going through the center of the hole and through the center of the drain because this is eight inches off the wall if it's centered on these two points it's going up this wall center i'm not going to have any issues right so i'm just going to go like this and like this turn this off before i go blind for the purpose of helping you all out i'm gonna be left-handed for two seconds okay we're gonna put a big c on that that's your mark so you can measure off this line left to right in every direction draw laser lines anywhere you need this is going to be the center of the mirror right and while we're at it i'll show you the fixtures it okay now you can see this mirror's got these little clips and so i need to have two positions for the screws right it's going to be interesting okay guys so because not everybody's going to be interested in mirrors and lights and all that sort of stuff we're gonna make that a separate video okay we're gonna add that in you can watch all that next week right now let's go get into the connecting of all the plumbing we'll drop in the faucets and the sinks and we'll get all that hooked up and check the water do that last water test so then you know that at least you've got your water taken care of and you're not gonna have any leaks and then next week we'll show you how we finish all of the rest as well cheers when it comes time to do the plumbing on your vanity there's a lot of people who say oh you should attach the taps first before you put the countertop in but if you saw us put that in can you imagine having two sets of taps and faucets and water supply lines on a six foot vanity that's already a couple hundred pounds and tried not to screw that up really difficult right so i always prefer to be um uncomfortable when i'm doing my plumbing then take a risk of damaging everything while i'm trying to save a step anyway uh turn off the water drain the lines we're gonna do the water supply first then we're gonna attach all the faucets and then when that's done then we're gonna connect all the drain okay you don't wanna have the drain installed and then be crawling up there upside down trying to tighten in the faucet connections that'll drive you crazy so do this in the right order and it makes it simple first thing of course is we've drained the lines for a few minutes now we are going to squeeze and turn and there's always a little bit of water god help us uh the more patient you are with draining your lines the less pressure will be in the system yeah that one's had more time to drain well now that that's out of the way i'm going to show you the easiest diy plumbing shutoff valve system on the market i love this for a couple of reasons one it's just push connect shark bite shut off two it's just a 90 degree turn that's open when it's in line and that's closed we don't need this cat and now i'm going to go answer the phone and be right back these shutoff valves also come in 90. so you can have it come out the water supply comes up and then shut off valves on the front where i went shopping they were out of inventory i'll tell you right now um ever since the storms in texas last year companies like sharp right have had a horrible time keeping their stuff in inventory starting to get a little closer to normal but sometimes you're just going to have to be flexible you're going to find the water supply right and so the water supply lines on the rear belt pro faucet that i bought are like 20 to 24 inches so they'll have no problem coming down and looping back in a later date if i get a chance i might change it to 90s but for now it's just nice to get it finished so we're going to start off with these things in the closed position get rid of the decorative caps and we simply are going to press and twist all right you want to get about one inch on this pipe back so do yourself a favor and set your thumb about an inch or so back so you know when you're almost there because that's not on okay this is on there you go all right now i know i'm installed that pipe got collapsed a little bit when i cut it it's a little oval you don't want to try to force the shark bite on there like that make sure it's nice and round if you want to make sure grab one of your solid copper rings and slide it on that and if it goes on without any difficulty then you're okay okay if you're fighting with it to get it on you're gonna fight with the shark bite and you might cause damage to the fitting and then it won't work get that on there here we go okay so for ease of operation i'm right-handed i'm going to leave the shutoff valves on the right okay there we go that's set up woohoo now we get to go and assemble the faucets all right guys so here's an eight inch faucet set give you an idea how it works you're gonna have a water supply line and then a redirect back to the the tap that comes out okay all right and these are all deck mounted just a note when when my wife bought this vanity it was kind of like a hey honey i need this big this dimension to sink whatever i forgot to say if you can find one that has a countertop that has single hole all right then the faucets are really affordable when she went on the wafer site majority of these countertops had three holes drilled in it i don't know why the cabinet encountered people are in cahoots with the plumbing industry but it takes three times as much effort to drill three holes as it does to do one okay and guaranteed any faucet you buy you can put on this counter because they do make single hole faucets that have a huge plate right but who wants a huge plate if it was only one hole you could get a single hole faucet as it is this is three times the price and i had two of them i'm so blessed so word to the wise when you're shopping if you're worried about your budget get a single hole for your sink anyway this is a great demonstration how to hook up a sink because you get a whole lot more knowledge there's a lot of parts a lot of assembly okay most of it is actually a lot simpler than it looks all right um we're just going to go through this we don't need these i've done these faucets a thousand times i've been using real bell pro for 15 years maybe 12. god it feels like forever max it feels like forever so let's just go through all the parts we'll just kind of like um install them from the top first okay that's your water supply line i was talking about right that's gonna have no problem connecting to that shutoff valve down there now before we can drop it in the hole we need something to keep it from falling all the way through just a word of warning when you're undoing your packaging see these little here these little chrome stoppers they're in a separate bag it's not garbage don't throw that out they go in here afterwards okay what you're gonna do is you're gonna take each one of these water supplies we're gonna throw this over top okay and it's gonna thread go backwards there you go until it makes a click noise spin it down a little bit get out of the way now on this you're gonna see the little flat section okay that goes on the top all right and you're gonna thread that down until it doesn't thread anymore just finger tight nice and easy okay that's your stop now you can adjust this over time but you wanna have contact here and i'll show you why okay here's your handle and it just sits right on right in the boom okay this space here is what guarantees no rubbing all right if you don't sink it down far enough and then you install it you actually make contact with ring and you're gonna get grinding and noises you don't want that okay so finger tight all until it stops and then back this plate up to it now you're ready to install it okay make sure this gasket is in its rightful position and so anything on this about left and right are hot and cold yes these are marked is this a hot line okay and the reason you want to have this all marked is because these faucets will open and close counter like in different directions if you put them on the wrong side they'll still function but then your taps will look weird okay get these and that sits here boom well that's pretty much installed same thing from over here now let's put the bottom on the reason the flat section you want to top so if you ever have to do maintenance on this or replace it you can put your pliers and grab the flat spot and you can loosen off that connection after it's been there for a while trust me you're going to need the pliers okay it only works great out of the box there we go now that one's ready to go in that's the cold supply now the next stages we do from underneath the rubber gasket it's like a hat it's got a ridge on the top all right that's designed to go into this hole that's it's a universal hole okay so it goes into the hole in the granite and sits flush this is perfect all the countertop people are making the same size hole out there okay so we take that and goes underneath the counter this gets up and then we thread this on from underneath and when you do this you want to back off the screws here a little bit okay this will thread it from underneath and then you'll have this connection here then you take a drill with a drill bit and you can tighten this and it creates compression against the thread on here and the countertop and that's what keeps the handle from moving around okay so make sure you get the right screwdriver bit make sure you give yourself lots of room here to create that compression now i'm gonna crawl underneath and get this done so what i'm gonna do is i'm gonna install it upside down in the counter so you can see easily all right you take your washer with the with the top of the hat pointing the countertop okay now there we go that's just starts to make a lot more sense now doesn't it if you don't see the assembly it's going to be difficult now the same thing that sticker sure is in the way huh okay same thing go backwards until it sits in the in the groove you don't want to risk cross threading this because if it's cross threaded you're done right now you've made good contact i could tighten it up a little bit more but i want to have the screws on each side because that's really easy for me to get a hold of with my drill grab yourself a six inch drill bit okay because when you're underneath it's really easy to just go like this okay see how much that moved it's a fine thread it's like an 832 make a good torque or two on there okay now that's not going anywhere now that's exactly what i'm going to do from underneath on my back now that we've got that set up just to recap this is a quick connect okay so this just pops in there and then the two shorter lines just pop in here now your water supply is connected to your faucet that's the easy part we have this lovely little fitting here as well this is set up so that it could swivel if you want or you can set it up with the washer and nut system from underneath all right and set it in place which is what i'm going to do should just sit there i'm going to crawl down one more time i'm going to take my tiny little wrench with me they make little plastic wrenches for plumbers right sometimes you can buy and has a kit and it'll just be a little plastic gray thing that comes in there and you can just throw a screwdriver and make a wrench out of it it's not really needed i'm going to crawl under here and connect that and then connect the water supply yeah uh yeah i'm getting too old for this scrap max here we go just right on the shoulder blades that's nice because if this was particle board i'd probably destroy it because i'm a little bit overweight if you didn't notice okay here we go just like the other one rubber gasket first then the brass plate now i can look up through the drain hole and see the faucet and kind of guess what square is this is a great time to have somebody working with you you can have them up there holding the faucet while you tighten the ring on you can see why you don't want to have your p-trap and everything installed right now right because everything will be in the way so very important to do this in the right order all right one of the benefits if you're working alone [Applause] intentionally have it out of square just a little bit when i'm done tightening this on and i go back up and i just i straighten that out it'll be enough force to scrape straighten that out that i'll be comfortable it's not ever moving again okay i think i'm good with that all of the water supplies okay so cold line on one side just snapping it as far as it goes hot the other you see how they move freely okay now we're just going to go press it up right into the old there we go the secret here is make sure everything's nice and looped and not kinking next thing of course before we do the p-trap let's get these water supply lines on these are standard 3 8 water supply it's the same everywhere you go whenever you buy shut-offs they come in three-eighths threaded or they come in quarter inch threaded okay and quarter inches for fridge lines 3 8 is for anything to do with your faucet in the bathroom so make sure you get the right one once you've finger tightened it always take a little wrench with you okay grab it and get at least another good quarter turn finger tight means you've engaged the little washer in here and it is little okay now if you've got lots of line and you want to go like this what you can do is you can actually loop it in some cases like this and then add a twist tie to it keep it out of the way okay i'm not going to worry about that for now i think in this particular situation i'm more likely to go and get the different shutoff valves later but i'm going to deal with it for now because well it ain't no big deal to change the shutoff valve there we go so see that i can i can twist everything out of the way i can put a twist tie on that if i need to to get it out of the way no big deal for now okay but right now we're going to deal with this remember when we did the drain we said we're not going to glue that this is why next step is the drain assembly now you'll see this it's the same thing everything has a nut and a washer right here we go this is rolled for down here this is all to be assembled after the fact this is how it works this goes in the bottom of the sink like that this is a teflon ring that goes in between the metal and the rubber because these these the thread on the pipe is not level it's on an angle and so when you put all this together when you're tightening this up really hard you'll have one point of contact that has the most pressure and that's reduced on both sides okay it's on an angle and if i just go without that teflon right up against the rubber what happens it'll grab it and it'll go and it'll pinch and then you'll have a leak so this is just to help make sure that there's no no grab it's so slippery that you can put an incredible amount of tension that even though it's on an angle it'll be tight all the way around okay and it won't kink on you so make sure you put that assembly properly one then two then three all right um one of the reasons i love rebel pro is because they always have a gasket on their drains you don't have to make your own out of plumbers buddy okay this is set up for a typical sink that has an overflow on it right so that the the drain is the drain is going to connect to about this level and there's a huge gap here for the overflow in the sink to to operate drop that in place and the plumbing up top is finished and we'll just slide all three of these components on until we get to the brass ring and then we just crank it over there no i've already got a good seal here but it's still wiggling around right that's what i was talking about that whole one point of contact so i'm going to just use my crescent wrench you bugger it's not going to get big enough seriously stupid all right sorry crescent i can't give you compliments on that wrench all right i'm going to take my little wrench here and we're going to just work this around a little bit you can see how it's really almost closed here but bigger here on the gap on this side we're just going to keep on doing this until we have solid contact all the way around okay now my gasket's got solid contact with both sides of the sink i know i'm going to be good for our plumbing [Music] we have an abs system here okay here's our p-trap it's standard for a sink because it has a drain on it okay so if you ever lose a ring or something you can just open the drain put a bucket underneath to grab it and you can drain it all out okay and it has this release as well it sits in here like this if you ever get leaks where you get rotted out stem here on your old sink if you get hair clogs it'll cause the metal to rust out real prematurely you can actually disconnect and then just get a new p-trap and then reconnect it okay just a little something there to help people out all right wrap the threads again plumbing on plumbing plastic on plastic you run the risk okay of a bad joint and so this is less of a lubrication in this more of a sealant take the time to add it okay we're going straight front and back so we'll set it up like that really lightly at this point okay there's nothing worse than when you do new plumbing to have a customer call you back i was in the warranty department for that renovation company for a while i couldn't believe how many times get warranty for plumbing i make plumbing plumbing i think the plumber they were using was just a really big contract company they're always just cutting corners to get things done because they only gave a 30-day warranty of course the renovation company had a two-year warranty so we did nothing but plumbing repairs all the time all right now i'm going to check the back here where that pipe is you see the height that that's sitting at okay if i bring that out and i add this right now i'm still too low so now we're just going to walk through real quick the assembly that you're going to need to connect these drains if you do it in the right order it makes it really simple first thing you want to do put your your p-trap here okay where the bottom is and imagine this is glued to the very bottom of it all right if i go like this because i want to have this stem somewhere in closer to the bottom here okay i don't want to have it just barely making contact with the top if i go where i want it the back of the pre-trap is higher than the drain okay it's higher than that connection so now i know that i'm going to have a piece of pipe added in here the only way that we can measure that is really simple we'll just start from the front and we'll work our way to the back this has a washer ring okay and then this part threads over top and creates compression and when it's loose you can't grab the pipe okay but when you tighten it on it creates really good seal so it's not moving that is what we want so we're going to rough to mate here i'm just going to use the existing pipe stick it in the back dry fit no glue and i'm going to go i would like this seal up here somewhere this is really nice for me so now i'm going to measure down to my and i'm going to cut the pipe that goes about three quarters of the way inside each fitting okay so we'll go like this and i think three and a half is plenty okay you know me when i'm measuring pipe i always go on the printed side three and a half is at the u to the d on there we go okay remember this fitting this pipe cutter here the melt the joint line here this here that's my that's where it's going to cut so i put it right on that u to the d and then i stab it and i twist it i get a perfect cut nice and clean okay so that gives me that assembly and now we'll take this out of the wall get rid of this temporary loosen this off now we're going to glue all of this together okay oh yeah so you want to glue the fitting and the pipe and i'll tell you why we use the word glue here but this is a solvent so basically it's melting the two pieces right now and when i stick them together then they will when the solvent stops acting and reacting it takes about 30 seconds it'll just be an instant sealed bond okay and it's guaranteed never to leak as long as you're working with everything clean and new and you put the solvent on both pieces i know lots of guys out there who only put sullivan on one side there we go a little bit of a twist just to make sure everything's activated good to go now that's ready okay now now we can put this back on okay and now we can measure from inside the back fitting right from there okay up to this point right here okay about about three quarters again all right now this is going to get a little awkward and the fitting to there is four and a half all right let's see if maybe that'll work well that was five that's just too close to be able to do that four and a half just to the d line it up stab and twist and the reason i didn't cut it on that piece is i'm only taking a half an inch off and it's really hard for this thing to do a good job with half an inch okay just experience so that's why i grabbed a new piece okay now this is where this gets interesting because we're going to glue this fitting that fitting both ends of this pipe at the same time and connect it all and the way we do that is you just loosen this collar up a little bit okay so there's flexibility all right there we go okay i'll start in the back give that a run give this a run a little more both ends of the pipe oh got my finger that's nasty okay and we're going to stick it in here and then i'm going to go like this i'm going to lift it up into position exactly where i want it and then i'm going to just give it a bit of a lift and then i'm going to twist this tight now i'm going to tighten this color hand tight again okay don't want to go grabbing a wrench or anything remember what i said if you put too much torque on a plastic thread you cause it to go from round to oval and that's when they leak here we go so now that i have the drain connected i'm going to open up my cold water line i have no idea of knowing if the taps are open or closed at this point and good for them they shipped it closed now i can just okay so now we know these taps are going to get installed that way okay and then to turn them on your board there's gonna be a lot of water in this all right now there's two stages to testing your drain assembly one is just running cold water all right by itself with the sink open and you just go both 30 seconds get a good flow going basically we're doing is we're filling up the p-trap causing water and if there's any gaps or leaks the water will work its way through all the cracks and then it'll start to drip so this can take a couple of minutes all right and that'll test this joint this joint the glue joints here all right but it won't test the collar because this is higher than the rest of the drain so okay the way you test the collar is you have to fill the sink up with water all right so i plug the sink and then once your sink is full then you can just unplug it and be such a large volume of water right away if this is not tight then it'll then it'll leak oh and that's just running really smooth now when you're doing your own plumbing at home the amount of time i just did the leak test is no good it's not acceptable for abs plumbing okay because we have threaded fittings and compressions what i suggest is leave the cold water running on this bad boy grab a couple paper towels stick it underneath if anything drips it'll show up real easy let it go 10 or 15 minutes all right give it a good test because if there's just a little hair line where the water can work through it can take quite a while before it shows up and in most cases a little leak like that well you just got to give it a little bit of a little bit of a twist to tighten it up okay or it'll seal itself just because of all the debris in the water supply system okay well there we go that's done now let's finish off the handles up top all right i'm going to show you a little secret here watch this handle that's where you want it right down near the bottom okay this one it's not going all the way down it's because i haven't adjusted the set screw in here yet now i've got my precision tool kit here i know that it's a two and a half millimeter or is it there it is you have to open the set screw so you can see the blue till you see that blue there okay and that's like a thread sealer and then you know now it drops all the way down okay and then you stick your precision tool in there and you tighten up that thread once you have it in place okay now this handle is just a little bit off i want it here so now what i'm going to do is i'm going to go back underneath the sink i'm going to use the long drill bit i'm going to loosen those two screws and i'm going to turn the tower just a little bit here and then tighten them up again that'll square it all off that's exactly where i want it and then tighten them back up again and that is why it's made that way okay so you can have it perfect every time all right there we go only thing left of course if you found the package and you didn't throw it out decorative caps okay and they just slide in underneath and it goes in like this guys now it's just like compression right now if you need to get access to this handle in the future you grab your olfa knife okay you get underneath here and you can go like this and just pry it out of there okay there we go ta-da now you just gotta do that twice hey guys in this video we're gonna deal with how to finish off your renovations specifically in a bathroom um we should have enough skill sets by the time i've done this video that you can hang just about anything or install just about anything anywhere in your house we're going to deal with some electrical some gfi some plugs light fixtures we're going to deal with mirrors we're going to do with faucets we're going to deal with anything you have to attach to the wall really okay so we're going to have a bunch of different processes we're going through drywall we're going through tile we're going to do just about everything you could ever need to do we're going to show you how to use the basic hand tools to get all this done all right and then you can be competent and install anything moving forward this should be a lot of help it'll be pretty condensed hopefully you can learn something new for the first time here so let's just jump right in this generally speaking i like to work from the top down which means lighting and that is easy because if i do the lighting then i can turn the lights on all right so because we have the camera here today we have artificial lighting we have our own lights i'm not going to worry too much about that so i'm going to install one of these light fixtures and i'm also going to install a mirror and i'm going to use a laser line for this okay because we are looking for perfection here whenever you're doing a project you want to use the center of your faucet to be exactly the distance middle distance between your light fixtures all these kinds of things you really want to think end from the beginning frame everything put your boxes in with the end goal in mind okay so right now we've got this all set up so it's double sink two oval mirrors and the gap between the light fixture and each mirror edge is exactly the same on all along this wall so i think we're going to get a great finish this is my center line i've lined it up on the sink here and what we're going to do is well what's easier for the camera i'll get on this side of the line how's that so i've already measured this off to exactly center between the two light boxes and it's right on my tap which is what it should have been if you're not sure how i came to that conclusion you can watch the previous video on how to and go from a single to a double sink okay pretty sure we cover all the information about how to line up your boxes and put a reference mark here just in case i end up kicking the light as i go along okay so this is our mirror it's a nice oval see that's why i put that pencil line there i'm gonna want to have that for reference so we will put that back and straddle that okay what i'm doing now is i'm just gonna go and look for what looks the best right i don't need to see the ceiling and i'm five ten and a half five eleven in my dad's shoes right so i'm gonna bring it down just a bit this is good my thumbs are actually about two inches below where the the electrical box is i like that i can see everything i'm wearing i can see right to the countertop i think that's going to work out well so we're going to keep that in mind and we're going to take a look at the light fixture that hole mounts right in the middle of the box and the light centers a little bit below this so that means the center line in this mirror should be about an inch and a half below the box so that's a good spot right okay now what i can do with my laser is i can raise this bad boy up and the reason i love to use this is because i'm doing more than one mirror if you're only doing one mirror you can do all kinds of cheating here but when you're doing two you're gonna have a system that you can duplicate because you can see the hooks on the back here these are designed to put in two screw plugs in the wall and you hang it on the screw there's not a lot of mercy here so you got to get this pretty dead on now there's my laser line about two inches below the box we're going to call that the center okay so now i'm going to find the center of my mirror about there okay i'm going to put a line all right here we go from that line i'm gonna go nine inches what i'm gonna do is i'm gonna measure up nine inches from here this is gonna be the height of my hooks and this is my center line right here we go and my hooks my screw heads are gonna be seven and three quarter inches apart well that's just brilliant so let's change this again bathrooms are always so much fun because there's never enough room in here to really function okay seven and five-eighths if you're not good with math you take your seven and five-eighths and you just fold your tape over okay and then you can read right there it's three and seven-eighths okay so i'm going to put 3 and 7 8 on my red line make a mark 7 and 5 8 make my other mark there we go now all i got to do is make sure that that line is level and i don't need a laser for that there we go there and there now the only other thing you need to know now is if there's a stud there and if we don't have a stud then we know we need a wall plug so you put your stud finder right against the wall and then you press the button and when it says ready which is the green light you start sliding there's a stud there so i'm right on the edge of the stud that's going to be tricky and wow i have another stud here very unique huh so whether it's a stud or some other obstruction i'm not exactly sure i know my plumbing is in the center of the wall and it's horizontal here for the vents and i'm not sure what's going on there so what i'm going to do is i'm going to do an exploratory hole with i'm going to use my my robertson bit this is a safe way to check there's nothing here that's sharp enough to penetrate a plumbing line or electrical line and do damage so since we're not sure we're just going to start like this yeah i'm right off the edge okay and then this if i'm putting in a screw there it's going to go and it's going to be very very unique here i actually have stud in this case i don't need wall plates what i do need to do is just put a plug here and leave about 3 16 of space between the head of that screw in the wall so that that hook can go on and over here i'm going to cheat i'm going to drill in an angle so i get positive contact with that stud and the goal is to have that screw head line up where i want it when i'm done bam loving that all right now there are two ways to mount these mirrors right you can take a airline wire and you can buy a little mirror hanging kit at the store and you wrap it around each end and then you only put one screw in the middle and you can set your mirror on and you can level it off and that works great but when you have two you can't do that because they'll never be level so this is why we've got to do it the old-fashioned hard way what you want to do is get your fingers on here if it's stiff enough you can set them like that and forget it great stand to the side just line them up there we go boom button that's going to work great but the the secret here is taking this information transferring it over there so what we have to do before we move forward okay is get this horizontal line on again and we want to take this information and we were nine inches above yes i want to come over here off the center mark i want to mark my nine inches above okay and then i'm going to want to bring my laser level over off the center hole mark this get a center line measure both directions again and do the same thing okay now let's move on to the light fixture i already know because this is my house and i wired this that the power goes with that box then that box then over here so i'm starting at the end i'll work my way back over there and when i'm doing the the first light in the series i'll double check make sure the switch is off so i don't have any power in it right now i don't know but because it's not connected i know there's no power in this so just as a precursor so you know i'm not working crazy with the power on not that that makes me nervous but for today's video we'll assume i'm saying all right here we go this particular fixture comes with a few elements always open up your packaging before you go install you'll never find light bulbs in a light fixture box in most cases okay so we've got a lens we've got the mount with the wiring and we've got a mounting bracket okay and then this little ring here is what's used to tie all these together and once it's connected then you add the bulb afterwards so let's just go through the process first of all we're going to need a robertson screw bit which we have because these screws are the mounting screws for this plate now what we want to do is bring the wire through the middle nice and easy there we go and because we're mounting through the middle off this bracket anywhere where we can set this whereas i'm going to install easily we're going to go with okay you don't have to go with one of the little holes you can use one of the big ones and adjust it over time doesn't really matter these brackets are designed to be incredibly functional and and actually incredibly versatile you can even mount this round box on an old rectangular box and turn that into a light if you get if you need to all right because it has all these different options for mounting here we go so i got my neutral i got my power i got my ground and for good measure we're going to back up the ground screw and then tighten it on if you wire clockwise and you tighten clockwise everything tightens when you use the drill if you put it on the wrong side it'll all just fire right out of it okay you're going to run in all kinds of trouble look at this this is cuting like i was saying earlier you don't want to be doing all your fixtures and stuff until your paint has been drying for a couple of days it needs to harden every time something bumps into it it'll make a dent or a scratch or mark and you can't wash it off remember you can't wash your washable paint on your walls until 30 days after you paint because that's how long it takes it to cure before you can wash it oh geez careful jeff careful here we go so you can see how i'm wrapping it around that wire a lot trying to guarantee positive contact long term after this install is over hey that's enough of that there boy all right here we go now i'm gonna take this wire and i'm gonna do that as well i know this is overkill because these screws make this plate grounded to the box but you know going a little overkill isn't going to hurt anybody in this situation now you really want to figure out where your wires are going to go here okay and you want to kind of connect everything around free from obstruction and this is only a quarter inch thick and i've got almost an inch of this threaded rod sticking out so we're going to tighten it back up and i'm going to stick this on why is that only going in there we go i almost crossed threaded that max that one really sucked okay so i have another problem here that i'm gonna have to deal with now can you imagine can you guess anybody guess in the comments section that's right i used a pan box and for whatever reason they decided to give us a three inch bolt for mounting this box like that's the bolt needs to be an inch long here looks like it's making contact with the ground wire in there let's move that out of the way there we go now we should be able to get enough of that thread it in there to make enough room all right sometimes the thickness of the ground wire is all that it takes i'm liking my odds here yes sir that was it [Music] now we're going to polish this up this is a great time to check for stickers by the way the sticker is actually on the ring sometimes it's on the light fixture and it has stickers telling you information about the light bulbs you can use you want to remove that sticker as soon as possible in the old days we just have incandescent light bulbs and got really warm and those stickers would always leave a nasty residue if you turn the lights on before removing them electricians are famous for not removing stickers off a light fixture so be careful about that alright as it turns out how about some led light fixtures light bulbs holy crap are these ever huge that's a lot of bulb just wanted 60 watts i didn't realize i had to get something as big as my car there we go that's the light fixture installed yay um i would show you it work but we'll show you the end of the video okay we'll make sure that we do an after shot of the whole room so you get the whole idea here we go on to the next fixture we don't want to waste any of your time so regular wall plug um we got a lot of wire here okay i'm gonna grab the end and all you do is turn it it creates a nice hook okay it's easy to work with this okay you set it on one side of that box and you can pinch the wire shut and then you just tighten it on okay piece of cake now generally on almost every fixture you get the screws on the side with the ground are always the whites all right and brass and black okay white and the silver so the way you remember this is the brass and the black go together i think i did a video of this before and i got that wiring combination screwed up it wasn't always incredibly comfortable on camera my brains would scramble here we go so we're going to have this part of a circuit so this power's coming in and going out all right so generally what i like to do is do the whites first okay again you pinch the end and you curl a hook into it all right now i am not a master electrician by any stretch let's just be honest you don't need to have a master electrician to wire a receptacle any more than you need an engineer to drive a car down the street this stuff is not that tricky and anybody who's doing their wiring wrapping their wire around the screws is already miles ahead as far as integrity is concerned because on the back they have these little holes push and play like you can just push the wire in there i'm telling you right now if you want to do nice wiring job at your house don't use those holes yes they're convenient well that's really long yes the holes are convenient but they are known to fail get a loose connection and then you can't ever pull them back out you have to cut them off which means you have a live piece of wire sticking out of the back when you go in the box next time and you increase the risk of problems and starting fires and all that business just put a wire on a screw right and stop being lazy if you spend your whole career and you stop one fire from happening as an electrician because you do this versus the plug and play it was worth the time you took okay let's do this um talk to me are you the uh oh my god ex upside down or are you more like this kind of look which do you prefer i like to make them look like a face for whatever reason the human brain recognizes that and it finds it more aesthetically pleasing if you think i'm wrong let me know but i've had long conversations with people about this before there is no actual right way and wrong way here all right and the secret is you push it to the wall and then you tighten it up okay [Music] don't over tighten because you'll push this too far inside and then the wall plate won't cover nice speaking of wall plates if you do a decent job with your drywall then you won't need to use oversized plates you can get the normal size if however you have too big of a hole because of your remodel okay you don't like that you can always push them around just a little bit there we go gotta love a good olfa knife as long as you've got a knife on you you never need a screwdriver and again these screws go vertical okay aesthetically pleasing okay now we can jump on to the faucet before we do we'll talk real quick about the gfi all right okay gfi all right they have a few different versions out here the idea is if something horrible goes wrong it turns itself off that's all you need to know as a homeowner on the back again you got brass and you got silver you got a ground screw and you have this little taped on section okay if you're only bringing a single pair of wires a black and a white you wire it right here and if you want the circuit to continue from here you may remove the yellow tape and you put the black and the white here and that carries on to the next fixture wow that was complicated huh listen the technology is all in the switch you don't have to know anything different um that plug down there costs 1.95 and this one costs 28 you got to trust the technology don't wire it backwards or you most likely will kill it and then you have to spend another 30 bucks for a new one they're a little bit sensitive let's just set these wires up now this is contrary to common sense this one's actually live ah i'm just not in the mood to go downstairs and do this right now we are going to wire the whole switch right up to the last live wire and we'll do that one at the end all right again we'll do the ground first oh neat all right my bad these don't need hooks see that next these have got a big brass plate and the screw release makes hole to slide the wire straight in cut them all back again and we're just going to go with whatever the recommended distance is for this nice not too long you don't want to have exposed wires sticking out of the back of the box well this is actually a lot more entertaining than i thought so you have to hold it upside down in order to release the plate and then you can turn it over tighten the screw good now we're gonna do the two whites now this is the one with the power okay and this is the one where the power comes in okay and interesting system they got here all right now both of these screws are all the way through to the other side of the brass all right flip it over okay now it's time for some safety precautions because we're going to deal with a live circuit i'm going to wrap all of the screws in electrical tape okay perfect loving it and here's the reason why if you touch a live wire you don't electrocute yourself because there's no circuit until it connects to the neutral so if i can't come in contact with the neutral wire i can't complete the circuit loving it so now we're going to take the live power off and we're going to cut it back a little bit because it's a little long we're going to treat it with a healthy amount of respect here if anything goes wrong here it's on me so what i want to do is get rid of this i'm going to open that gate up okay i'm holding the tab at the end because these two are always safe even in the live situation okay good all right now let's hit the reset button and the little light should turn on oh i guess the power was not after all right on okay i'll have to go down and turn the breaker on always better to treat it like the power's on and then you'll never have to worry about someone like let's say uh one of your sons going downstairs and they go downstairs and they go oh that one's not working that must be mine yeah that happens so the other thing you can do is have a little proximity tester a little green stick on you or something all right so i just threw my laser level on the the mouth of that plug and it's on the mouth of that plug so the boxers are perfectly level what we have here is gonna be really common this countertop is not installed level there's a nasty slope it comes with these beautiful big feet on it that didn't give us the ability to level it off to perfection what we have is flat stable and pretty darn level as a result this plug is a quarter inch lower towards the countertop than this side and i have a stone backsplash so although it looks great it's going to be an issue as soon as i put the back on so what i've got to do got to raise this bad boy up because i need four inches of clearance right now i only have three and seven eighths okay so now i get to show you how to fix this as a diy renovator you're going to want to follow a lot of these little tips a little systems that i use okay here's one of my systems that i use when i mount my boxes i mount my boxes with one screw on a 45 degree angle from the middle going into the second hole all right here's why look at the size of this cover plate okay right i've got almost a half an inch of mercy here that i can play with so dig right in here max so what i'm going to do is i'm going to cut out drywall so that i can raise the box now this particular box has got the set screws on the inside of the box which is brilliant so when you're shopping you got choices the boxes come with the set screw on the inside or there's a little flange on the top and the bottom whatever you do make sure you always set it so that you can maneuver it to a new height [Music] okay now up we go right on okay okay let's get the mouth working let's pre-bend the wires so they collapse properly and finish vertical now listen this is kind of like best case scenario everything's brand new everything's already flat and level you know using a laser level works but as soon as you have to start modifying things to fit a space like we did with the vanity and you can watch that in the other video that we did about how to go from single to double vanity really this should not be that difficult for a screw okay here we go then you'll appreciate the amount of effort and energy that goes into making this look good i'm only off half a degree maybe one degree tops over six feet and that eighth of an inch is the difference between me doing what cutting the plate what's the other option here cut the stone i'm about to stick on no the option is lift this up and make it look like it's set at the same height it's not going to be the end of the world it's still going to look perfect when you walk in and nobody's going to walk in your bathroom the laser will go aha you're out of a 16th of an inch so there we go problem solved listen because we have lots of room we're going to do the backsplash then i'm going to add the silicone seal and then i'm going to put the faucets in why the heck not right let's just make life difficult for me work top down back front i would suggest usually in most cases put in the faucet first but i'm down for a challenge today i'm going to go get the backsplash and i'm gonna teach you how to mount this and no you can't just use anything you gotta use the right stuff so let's just do a test on this first see how it looks that's upside down we really don't wanna start in the wrong direction there's a polish and an unpolished edge here this is natural stone i think it's quartz look at that that's pretty darn awesome you can tell gravity does most of the work here right when you go to install so anything that's a stone follow the same procedure like as if it's natural stone if you treat everything like marble you'll never make a mistake marble is porous different products have different porosity and you can attach things with white silicone black silicone clear silicone pl premium but sometimes the wrong combination of those adhesives will cause you to see the adhesive stain through the stone you'll end up with a big squiggly line and then who's going to look like an idiot so might i suggest the best process here is to just lay it down and you don't even have to get too close to the edge okay gravity is going to do most of the work here all right and we're going to just slide it into place there you go so i don't even know if i'm happy with that i might have to take this off and just raise it up another quarter inch to get a bit of a gap resist the temptation to press it into the wall most walls have got a bit of a bend and a wave to it okay come back with your clear silicone and just throw the tiniest little bead right against the top and if the hole opens up just make it a wider bead the reason we're using clear is because it's a pre-painted surface okay and you'll see the paint through the silicone after it dries and you won't really be able to tell the gap now don't use just transparent the transparent stuff gets a little cloudy white and it never looks as nice but the clear always comes out looking more like a window like a piece of glass all right and when you do this you want to have the side of the finger pressed against the wolf so that if it squeezes anywhere squeezes onto and behind the stone okay you see the gaps unacceptable always managing your silicone and your drips all right get a bigger hole and then open up the hole that wide and then just do a second pull close that gap if you fill it properly you won't get those shadows and stuff from the product not making contact with the back of the stone and behind it i know that looks a little funny right now but let it dry and it almost totally disappears that's how you fix an imperfect world clear silicone do not touch that again once you put silicone somewhere do not work above it for at least 24 hours all right or 12. like dumping nuts but at least 12. now we're also going to want to put a little bead right down here to prevent water from getting in between the backsplash and the countertop and this is just a thin bead nice and easy always managing the tip of that silicone this is where having the faucet here first is difficult trying to manage that look at all the difficulty i'm having here turn your water on use your finger to drive it okay there we go now we're gonna move on to the other faucet in case you didn't see me install the faucet on the going from one to two vanity video okay we're gonna do the quick version of this for the extended version you can watch the video where we went from not one vanity to two but one sink to two sinks we changed the plumbing we opened the wall we did everything rerouted it all right so it's worth the watch because one of the ways you can increase the value of your home is if you have a single vanity in your master bath change it to a double his and hers right easy money okay so here we go i just tried to remove what i saw was a foreign obstacle in the drain it turned out to be a piece of that broken glass from that damn light i wanted to show you so i reached down and pushed it with my finger and guess what it didn't move but the finger did that really sucked and there we go i just saved 1500 in hospital bills okay just joking i don't have to pay for mine up here and i didn't want to rub it in here we go here's our faucet assemblies right all right when you're dealing with these widespread faucets there's always multiple parts make sure you consult with the installation instructions but for the most part you're going to have something like this you back up the bottom plate so now you have something nice and tight and the handle goes on and it makes something pretty with an eighth of an inch there so there's no no rubbage when you're opening and turning it okay piece of cake and then we can thread on a washer from underneath they're marked hot and cold all right and then we have the faucet line which has got something similar going on right here like that there's no way to connect that and hold it in place until afterwards yay this is the drain it comes with a gasket for up top it's also threaded here okay here is a place i think i forgot to do that on the other video max anything that's threaded should have a joint compound okay and it can be as simple as something like this been in that box man for months look at that comes out like brand new okay nothing too serious go backwards until it sits in the cradle there off we go to the races okay that's just to make sure that nothing leaks down the road um you can buy different tailpieces that's why it comes like that all right sort of different functions so whatever is what it is we just drop that in the hole and everything else we connect from underneath here's the uh the shortened skinny on it okay so you drop that in and then from underneath you put this other gasket on this way okay there's a hole in the sink that you want that wedge to fill and it goes under compression by using a slip ring and that and then you tighten it all up okay now if you want to watch the whole palming assembly we've got it in the video for how to go from a single to a double sink i suggest you watch it it's very detailed and step by step but just so you know plumbing is pretty basic every time you buy a plumbing fixture it comes with instructions all right and if you like these particular faucets they're very affordable rear belt probe information in the video description so you can find out where to get it where you live the good thing is is the faucet part here okay it's a push connect all right and so the water supply hot and cold go into the bottom here underneath the sink and then just push connect the top in all right it's about as simple a plumbing as you're going to find in the market and this stuff works phenomenal let's just get it on make sure your handles go in horizontal so you turn towards you that's why they're marked hot and cold because they operate in the opposite function so make sure you put the hot on the right side and there's this lovely little set screws in here for the handles okay this little piece of packaging that looks like garbage keep it don't throw that out all right there we go there's the skinny okay now remember i showed you how to draw the lines over here for the other mirror i wanted to just put this one in because um real quick i got weirdly lucky with studs and framing in the wall this one not so lucky i missed it by half an inch and this one there's nothing here okay so in this case i'm just going to take my phillips bit all right i'm going to put it right where the hole is that's it okay i'm going to punch a couple of holes in here i'm gonna show you i got these at home depot okay these are actually one of the best wall drywall anchors out there now if you haven't seen it we do a video we're kind of making fun of drywall anchors because most of them don't work with their darn all right these actually do you collapse the middle and you push the points over all right you stick them in that hole and generally speaking they're bigger than your drill bit take your hammer and sink them in nice and flush they have that star grid on the backside it cuts the drywall okay so they won't twist so feel free to give them a good shot all right and then inside the package they have this little red plunger okay and it's skinny skinny skinny and then it gets thick and you want to put that plunger in there and push it until the thick part goes all the way to the back maybe i'll just show you what happens to it and what happens is it pushes the back out okay and then when you put in the screw this screw goes all the way through the back and then pulls it nice and tight and creates this crazy wedge right that is a really good system and i love it it's harder than you think sometimes there we go all right it takes a lot of force there we go now these are robertson's imagine that i wasn't expecting that to be a canadian problem and then at the same time i shouldn't be surprised that the best plug system that i like is a canadian product all right okay one more quick time i haven't even checked to see but because it's a robertson screw i'm thinking it's a canadian product i'm gonna check to see if this is available on amazon if it is i'll put in the video description down below not too many robertson screw fixture products available in the states wow the back of this mirror is crazy sharp i almost want to wear gloves touching this thing so what happens when you purchase stuff actually these weren't even on amazon my wife went and bought these at the store there we go okay all right another reason to buy an olfa knife right there makes your finger really long piece of cake right ah she's coming together well that was a lot of video i'm gonna suggest that if you're watching these a to z videos from here moving forward really suggest maybe you find a way to watch that on a really big tv we're filming this stuff in 4k ultra high definition right now which is blow your socks off kind of film quality so if you're in a place where you've got a good internet connection and you can watch this on a 4k tv you're going to get to see different angles and nuances that you aren't gonna pick up if you're watching on your phone okay that's just the bottom line for best viewing experience you should check this out on your television just go to your smart television and it'll be amazing now i wanted to encourage you guys subscribe to the channel if you haven't yet so you get the bell for notifications checked off the next video coming up is going to be the shower a to z and we did a complete remodel tile over tile in that one all brand new products that you can get at your local home depot to solve the supply chain issues that we're having with everything else in the market and if you're interested in what we're doing here in this 1880 farmhouse click the link over here and join this from the very beginning we've got videos on how we transform the entire home the only thing we saved was the framing everything else in here is brand new hope you enjoy it and you learned a lot you can do this yourself you can diy it and you can make a fortune too just like me cheers

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 2,521,763

Keywords: homerenovision, renovision, jeff thorman, homerenovisiondiy, small bathroom remodel, do it yourself, diy project, how to remodel a bathroom, bathroom renovation, small bathroom design ideas, bathroom remodel ideas 2021, tub surround, how to tee off plumbing lines, how to turn a single sink into a double sink, how to remodel a bathroom floor, tile backer, how to ground, how to do bathroom tile, bathroom vanity, how to hang a mirror, how to install wall sconces

Id: WQI6ZTrfq4Q

Length: 230min 20sec (13820 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 08 2022