How to set out, measure, cut and fix Timber featheredge cladding the carpenters way

i'm robin clevit welcome to my channel i'm out on site and i'm doing some cladding so i'm doing a whole building here and we're going around it with a beautiful bit of cladding and i'd like to show you a few tips and tricks first of all thanks to all my new subscribers recently and viewers and all the comments thanks for everyone joining me over on instagram too that's where i post a few pictures now and then of stuff that i don't get to put on the channel and anyway let's get on with it i've got a couple of things i'd like to go through with you i'm using a tantalized board and it's a really nice cladding board i've let it all stack here and dry right out before i use it i don't like it when it's too wet because you get a bit more shrinkage and that can sometimes result in a shake or a split somewhere so i like to avoid that so i've had it under cover it's in good order the moisture content is just about perfect so let's get on with it so we've got our building it's a timber frame structure we've got an osb sheathing behind this pro-tec membrane and then we've got a counter batten which is 25 millimeter and it's treated timber obviously and this goes all the way around to create a void for ventilation we've got a ventilation strip which serves a couple of purposes here it ventilates our floor continually all the way around and it also lets air into the cladding space the cladding i'm using is a feather edge cladding it's 175 we have around about a 40 millimeter cover which i'll show you and we're going to be going top to bottom with it and we're going to be using a solid corner so that's the first job i'm going to be doing is going around putting my corners up the reason i haven't got corner battens on is because i attach them to the corner post and put it all up as one and fix it so i've got hidden fixings and it keeps everything nice and straight and true so let's get on and do that first here's one of my corner posts i'm doing now i'm getting them all prepared and fixed before i start measuring my cladding in and this is the vent this is the typical vent that goes around the bottom and excuse the tractor as it goes bar you might hear that in the background there we're at in the sticks here so at the bottom of the post i've cut out some relief there and what that effectively does is that clears our vent strip which is effectively on like this and that is also the support for the bottom piece of cladding as well which gives us the correct tilt as we go around so you'll see that when it goes up so i'm going to fix my bands on here and then i'm going to fix the whole thing up there now i use a particular screw for battening it's a batten screw it's by spax it's wirock's so it's really good it's not going to corrode strong and also excuse me it will take the batten will take a fixing close to the end so if i just screw this in here it's got a really nice head on it which is dead flat so instead of like a normal countersink we'll just keep pushing the timber apart what this is going to do it just holds it there's no splitting there's no piloting needed they're designed not to have to have a pilot in but they're superb and they're easy to remember because they're 87mm long so when you search for them in one of the big okay tour station or screwfix you can actually find them just putting 87 mil spec screws and you will find them as well so let's whack this one on to give you an example of how it all works so what i'm doing here is by fixing this to the post i'm going to get secret fixing there's no straight fixing and also the post corner meets the corner of the building so it's particularly difficult to fix in normal circumstances let's get the other batten on the back side here here he is i'm gonna put that one on here let's put it around this way here we go let's get this one fixed on here i say there are superb these screws i'd like to show a little bit of the [Music] corner ah so that's it now we can put a few screws in so when i go and hold it up they're already there i'll just put one here and there that'll just make it easier for me and it's all about making your life easy out there guys life's hard enough without without being any different more difficult they're not cheap these screws 26 pound or something a box but there's nothing like him good let's go and whack that up and see how it looks and that's what we're looking at voila i wouldn't just slot that there like that that's it give me a little bit of membrane there and it holds itself which is lovely and then we just got to pop a screw in i'll start in the middle come round this side [Music] and that's it that's my first little tip for you that's how i fix my corners and it's a lovely solid job it gives you a really nice solid feel too so i have all my corners in now so the first thing to do now is clad this end and i'm going to clad the back as well so i've got a load of cladding here and they're all the lengths that the supplier sent me i didn't get much choice in that they're 4.8 meters long which means that in the case of the gables here i've got full lengths if i want them however if i cut those full lengths out if the offcuts aren't usable anywhere else i may run out of material so in fact what i may need to do is cut the first one use the offcut cut another one use the offcut and then i'll get a staggering join running up the gable but before i do that i'm going to set a rod out for the height work out how many courses i need so if we take the front for example between the bottom of the post is where my cladding is that's where it's going to start and it's going to travel up to my soffit here now there's a sort of minimum lap that you want there's no maximum lap but obviously you'll use more material i like to use so i've got a 175 mil board here i'll just show you the board this is the one this is 175 this board and i'm gonna have a lap of around about 40 millimeters okay so i'll just show you what that means i'll use a marker so you can see i'd use a pencil normally so that is what i will cover and that is what i will show i've got about 135 so what i'm going to do now is measure my overall run divide it by 135 in the first instance and see how many full boards i've got and then i'll make an adjustment so i can end up with exactly the same rip at the top so we have got between the soffit and the bottom we've got 2.4 meters so i'll rough that in first 2.4 divide that by 135 which is going to be tricky because i'm filming this with my phone and that's what i'd normally use as my calculator so let's just times it by 10. 1350 would be 10 boards 20 boards would be 2 700. so if i take off 135 will be 2 5 2 5 6 5 if i take off another 135 it's going to be 2 4 3 0 so i know that if i go up at that gauge i'm going to have a weird rip at the top so i'm going to divide it exactly by the number it's which i've i've worked out which is a 18 boards so i'm going to divide 2.4 by 18 and that'll give me the exact cover so that's that thing next thing i'll do is i'll mark a rod up and i'll go through and i'll mark all the courses on here and i'll keep that rod to transfer around the building so where i'm going to be cutting between my corner posts which are super solid and the other side i'll make i'll measure through that's 3704 i'll check that at the top the middle and the bottom and ideally what i want that is to be the same length 3704 so i'm pretty happy with that i'll just check it a little bit higher up because what i want to be doing is making them all as close to the same as possible yeah so 3704 is good now i'll just cut one piece at 3704 now this material they take it each one out of a pair so i've got one which is the reverse of this now as they cut it you have a 90 degree end here and i like that to be the back okay i don't want it the other way around so it's slanting upwards so i'm going to cut this one first i've got my chop saw here a long edge to support everything nice and flat i'll run that on there i'm going to just take the end square first the boards aren't often square so we'll square that up first and then what we're going to do is measure 3704 i'm gonna mark this with a pen so you can see it that's not very good too fat i shall get my pencil i've got so many pockets with these trousers which are great but um and strange things happen when i get home because the washing machine collects all of my bits and pieces out of my pockets it's magic actually i'll never there we go look carpenter's pencil got to have one of them so 3704 okay i'm just going to flop that around the other way let's cut the first one just to cut the first one and wet that in there like so [Applause] now i'm not going to cut all the way through i'm going to start it off that's my good end i'm going to put a mark here yes you know what's coming i'm going to attach a block just like so whack a couple of all this tape measures are jumping out of my pockets whack a couple of screws in there let me see well we've got some over here actually i've got just the feet in my pouch here we go new radio mic and this is why the sound is a lot better now thanks to all the people who said i hate the sound i can't watch your stuff it's a load of rubbish because of the sound so i worked it out and it was pretty easy so right that's the first thing where's the where's the ammo everything's everywhere today just going to attack this stop in the end here and that's it so i've got repeat cuts now i'm just going to complete that cut give it a go so i've got an off cut it's pretty useless to me apart from across one set of batons it would have been nicer if it was a little bit longer but i can use it in a few places but as i say i'm going to set this out now mark my rod properly work out how many courses i've got all the way around the building how many pieces i've got and see how many full lengths i can run without a series of joints let's get on with it so let's take this one in there just try it between the posts and if it works well we'll get on and make them all up that's absolutely mint that's perfect cladding this gable end up now i've got my rod here all i've got here is a level reference point which is what my rod butts against and the rod represents the boards you might want to have a quick closer up look at that so the rod represents each course so all i have to do when i'm setting out my cladding is butt this against here whack my nails in and that keeps it really nice straight and true so that's the only bit i wanted to level up there this gives me all my equal courses i use this on every side on the back on the side on the front and the top of this rod represents the soffit it gives me a full course and a cover fill it where i need it on the soffit so what i'm doing is got all of my cladding behind me here first thing i do is i leave them in the pairs as they were cut and i clean the end up i'll put a square end on there i'll show you what we do there so it's just a matter of not marking anything and we just literally run the circular saw through past the square clean them up and then from there we take them over to our table here we've got a stop on here that's been put on which is the length of the cladding whack this off and then i can take it and pop it in situ so what we want is a nice fit we don't want a really tight pinch fit to push the posts out even though they're super solid so the idea is this one will go in where it needs to be here i get my rod up against there pull that up onto the line spike it or hand spike this one just because it's easy now when you're fixing cladding you don't want to be going into the top of the board underneath the top of my board underneath is there so i want to get above that so here's the section through i've just put these here to give you an example there's the cover there that allows for shrinkage there's the nail there and it comes in just above the top of the other board all right so that's the correct way of fixing it the other way in tradition as well is if you are hand nailing this you aim the nail back there when this board shrinks that way which they do because the nail is aimed that way it pulls itself tight to the one underneath okay so that's another that's a traditional technique that's where we were taught years ago so when you're fixing a fever edge cladding this is an existing bit of beverage cladding i've got here on this site and i've noticed that it's been fixed with more of a second fix brad and they've also fixed it if you look at this brad they've also fixed it with one which isn't that suitable for outdoors if you're going to do this you really want a stainless steel one because even the galvanized ones that you find it only says suitable for indoor use and the problem with using a brad is you can clearly see it here it's just pulled away it's just not got enough strength and the other problem is as the boards get the sunshine on and this side dries out it's like a biometallic strip and it wants to curve out so all the moisture comes out of this side and it curves out it gets it shrinks and then that's what gives you this gap here if you watch me i can tap it back there and that's not really good for insects and all the rest of it you really don't want that so if you're gonna fix this cladding you really want to use a nail with a head you either you want to use if it's oak you've got to use a stainless steel now you can get them for your nail guns if it's a traditional treated soft wood like this a galvanized now or galvanized plus now is absolutely fine and as i've said before you really don't want to catch the board underneath so in this instance you can see they've actually caught the board underneath they've got three fixings there so instead of three fixings you just need one decent fixing and now with a head and the other beautiful thing about that is in the future if you just get a bit of movement you can just tap them back whereas these no matter what you do it's going to always pull away because there is no head it's just a very very small in this case rusty pin so let that be a bit of a sort of warning to you if you are thinking of using a brad or a pin back to the ends with my rod bring that down to where i want it to be and now [Applause] same the other end and then we can fix it all up [Music] [Applause] and that's it we've just got to keep repeating that now really nice and quick until we get to the top [Music] so [Music] you

Channel: Robin Clevett

Views: 81,802

Keywords: featheredge cladding, timber cladding, cladding, how to fit cladding, fixing featheredge, wooden cladding, paslode, how to fit featheredge, cladding video, champion timber, metsawood, siberian larch cladding, siberian larch, cedar cladding, summerhouse cladding, building a summerhouse, garden room cladding, fixing siding

Id: CX09PoDglEU

Length: 21min 29sec (1289 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 13 2020