CLADDING THE NEW SHED | Wrap, batten and some great value Cedar!

hi folks welcome back to the restoration couple today's video is all about cladding and this is what we've just been up to clad in this shed in western red cedar feather edge stick around and i'll show you how i did [Music] it so in the same way we finished the last video we got to this point we got to having a doorway and all of our horizontal members are all at 600 sensors the only slight issue i did touch on it in the last episode but our membrane is one meter uh which doesn't marry up with any of our horizontals but that's okay i put in the block uh meter on the corners but we should be able to stretch it nice and tight we're gonna work right to left and this has got an integrated tape in it which should hold everything nice and tight and sealed [Music] [Music] so [Music] you holding it yeah [Music] [Music] okay i asked the membrane on could be a little bit tighter but really we haven't got any mid supports at the right place unfortunately to get it really drum tight it's fine though it should still be away from the cladding and it should also contain any insulation we might put in here in the future and keep that away so we retain an air gap behind the cladding so now we need to batten over the top of this from the outside [Music] first one is going to go on this door lining and we'll end up with another one inch board here and then our feather edge will butt into that and i've put the other one right on the corner i'll show you that corner detail in a bit all right so now i'm just going to measure between and just work out our sensors i said i was going to go 600 but it is quite thin feather edge so there's a chance it might move over time 400 seems a little bit excessive so because we don't have any reason to be on standard sensors i think 500 sensors [Music] oh nails [Music] [Music] might seem a bit fussy but finding the straight ones for the corners is worth it i think right corner details this is what i've done here left it open on the corner so the battens are just touching uh that way i can sit a little fillet of square uh either cedar or i might just rip down some treated in here and that's what the feather has your butt up against so you'll end up with a corner trim a few ways of doing it you could miter every board if you really wanted to [Music] well we're going to pick up on where we left off we've got the battening on two of the walls so we can just crack on with the cedar now because it's cedar i'm using stainless ring shanks which is fine but this framing nailer has a really aggressive nose on it for you know digging in and gripping into the wood so it mars it kind of makes a big dent i was thinking about what plastic or rubber could i melt and kind of form onto there but then joe had the idea of using some hot glue from a glue gun so i'm going to try that like many things if it works we're going to look like geniuses if it doesn't we're going to look like absolute idiots funny feeling this might just work that's what you would normally get two teeth of the nose above each nail which we don't want i'm sure people have done that before so i'm not going to celebrate too hard but if we have just come up with that for the first time then go us well done joe so there you go every nail would look like that if we hadn't done it and now it's gonna be like this we can probably back it out a little bit once we've done a couple of tests through that cedar so next part of the cladding adventure is once we've got one board on well actually we need to cut them first once you've got one board on then we need to make a a bit of a jig to get our spacings right so we've got an even overlap on each one rather than trying to tape measure it and when you're working on your own it's uh it's not ideal i keep saying i'm gonna replace this old miter saw but it it lives on for now all right let's try and get some sort of stock block sorted [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right so the board's going on okay few things i've learned so far which is good because i've started on a hidden side which is intentional working my way up and what i did is made up a couple of these little jiggy things which just making sure that we've got a good 30 ml overlap on each i made one which has a metal mending plate on it which kind of slides up and holds but because they're fitting quite tightly it's not actually any better so just holding one each end is fine what i've found is right at the end it's splitting which is you know quite obvious um it was going to happen so i'm pre-drilling and just snapping a nail off the strip and nailing those in by hand [Music] [Applause] [Music] right first of all went to plan this corner post works really well just about enough reveals some of the thicker boards just poke out a little bit but it hides most of it the way i've done this one is i've done hidden screws in from the back of the batons [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] first two walls or short just short of two walls done um pretty much gone to plan a couple of pointers i've just shared them on an instagram story but i'll kind of repeat myself because probably two weeks later now and these corner posts two by two 45.45 they're closing off the end of the lap so that's really a tidy we're doing it the distance from here to here will be a door lining of some sort of trim on the inside here so again there'll be an infill and i want to make sure that i carry around the same coursing all the same levels so it just looks neat a couple of other points is also a few boards that i'm just holding back to either use on something else or stick them at the back on the back wall for instance this one is super thick so it would stand out proud on the corner and a couple of them are a little bit on the thin side so rather than have too much inconsistency i'm gonna hold off and get you know use the nice ones while i've got the choice [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] right so they kicked off with the last bit of boarding for now which is the back side down the back here and there's another section to put on the other end normally you stagger the joints but i'm trying to use up uh the best of the material so it will not end up with stupid oscars so i've got a load of off cuts from the first side i can use it the other side we're gonna have a little cover strip over those these corners work really well this is like a rough door lining which is all we needed and then i've put in a section running down there that just means that we've got somewhere nice and neat for everything to to bust up against same as we did on the corners and we've got all of the courses running through so on the inside as a stroke of genius last night i figured we won't panel and clap that end wall yet what i've done is left the membrane loose and we've created a slide will's here today he's giving me a hand and we've got a loaded sub base up there probably not enough but it's enough to get started so we can chuck that down the chute and then we can get a decent amount in here now the original idea was for just a crushed compacted sub base in here which would have been adequate for the shed side at least and then i might do a little concrete slab for the metal working area now i'm thinking this is our one opportunity to to bring in concrete easy uh in an easy way otherwise we can't even get a barrow around any other route so i tempted to just make that shoot a little bit more uh you know put some sides on it and then we'll mix up a load of concrete on monday and or monday or tuesday and see if we can get a slab poured in the whole thing uh i don't it's probably quite a few mixes but i think for the 100 quid or so it might cost probably cost a couple of um probably take a couple of bags of ballast but i think it's probably worth it in the long run yeah that worked so much right we took a little bit of a break from the cladding when we laid that concrete in there basically it was a last-minute thought to to get it done now rather than wait and do it next year so we made a shoot and we slid all the concrete in and now we can get on and do this wall so i've already put the membrane back up and fastened it about halfway up with the cladding once we get to the top we'll leave it until we've got the roof on and then we'll put the last few boards in that's pretty much it for the cladding we've got a little bit to do so we've got to cut the battens off just flush with the roof line and also add in our angled strips which are going to just tuck up and and nail in underneath the roof but let me give you a look around the building we went for 500 millimeter sensors no reason for that it just happened to break up that way evenly but you want to be somewhere between 400 and 600 the thinner the cladding the closer the spacing i would suggest because otherwise you can end up with these kind of moving around a little bit and twisting the corners worked out okay using this um east edge two by two and majority of places everything's lined up neatly we left those access down the back so we can maintain the hedge and also ensure that it's going to get enough light to stay green and not go brown funnily enough this is cedar hedging you can see the cladding so it's all very nice smelling back here the joint the one joint we have got i need to do a cover strip there um it's not really uh any issues with weather tightness but i'll do that and i'll probably put another one up the other end and then i'll mount a couple of hooks on there which we can hang our ladders on so it just gives something flat to um to anchor those fixings onto and then the last side which i've just completed is this end here this will get the most light so it'll silver the quickest in months to come i might paint or stain this but for now we'll just let it silver down this is also the wall that we'll see from the workshop up there for that reason at some point i'm going to decide on where i'm going to put a window i'm not going to hurry to do that but it might be here it might be at the front just to break up the expanse because this front wall is quite big remember i was going to do two doors on that end one this end but i think it's going to work better inside if i just have the one door and then break it up inside how i want but that's it that's the cladding done so quick reminder this is western red cedar just rough cut feather edge from our local sawmill i paid three pounds 20 for a 3.6 meter length so 85 i don't know 90 a meter it's pretty decent stuff and hopefully it's going to be a good option for this shed we will be finishing out the inside um but otherwise you could if you just had a traditional shed you'd be just nailing straight into those then you wouldn't end up with the issue of these nails coming through we'll just knock those down just so they don't catch anything they'll actually hold our insulation quite nicely [Music] do [Music] you

Channel: The Restoration Couple

Views: 212,165

Keywords: renovation, restoration, DIY, Do it yourself, how to, home improvement, reclaimed, projects, woodworking, maker, cedar cladding, featheredge, siding, cedar, shed, diy shed

Id: mQtXiFJHOZI

Length: 18min 1sec (1081 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 08 2020