The Big Build 25 The Lads First Roof, And making a Scarf Joint

[Music] we successfully got our trusses all into position they're all fixed there's a nailing schedule for when you're laminating trusses together we've got a three ply and we've got a four ply which simply means that's three trusses and four trusses and it all fits together and there's a particular way of fixing them as per the manufacturer's drawings we've also got up our lattice ridges i've talked about these lattice ridges before these are a pair of lattice ridges here now these ones travel from the end of this truss here all the way over to the load-bearing wall which is beneath me here and they do the work of that ridge there then we've got a pair of lattice trusses on either side of this big set of trusses here and then we're building a gable so we've already got a pair of common rafters cut and these ones here are for setting out we're setting out everything from these common rafters so you can see that we've got an ashlar wall which is going to come in underneath here and be directly underneath here and that's going to hold this whole section of roof through here we've got lots of rafters now there's only three spans on this whole job there's the first span we call the span number one and it's seven thousand six hundred and five millimeters from the outside of our oak to the outside of the wall plate on the other side and that ridge runs parallel all the way through that's the dominating part of the roof and that's obviously the highest because it's the widest span the second span span number two is behind me if i come over here the second span is from this wall plate all the way to the other side and that's 6960 so that's around about 800 millimeters just under three feet smaller which will give us a slightly lower ridge height on that section then in what will be an ensuite bar from here we have got the smallest of the three spans and that's running at around about 4.8 meters and that roof will pass up through here so it's really quite straightforward the roof pitch is 45 degrees now that's just what the old roof was on this building so the new one's 45 degrees there's no rhyme or reason to what pitch or what governs a picture of a roof other than an architect who might have drawn it at a particular pitch or it might be matching houses adjacent to it or you might be working to a maximum or minimum height so we're going to get on carry on cutting some timbers we've got a pair here ready to go up on the gable so we'll put a scaffold here some tower scaffold here and we'll hook the ends on the plates scissor them together fix them up brace them that will enable us to get the gable end stud work formed on both ends to sit our lattice ridge trusses on so we've got a lot to do and we're going to get on with that now yeah looking pretty good isn't it plate to plate that's where we really want to plumb it from yeah obviously not there because you know what yeah but we can't you can't have a four foot level on because [Applause] it's obviously a lot tighter at this point because of the um the metal work in it yeah that's pretty good that is then we'll just see what this is doing at that point there it's a bit more crude but yeah we're pretty good there yeah happy beautiful happy so we know we know that this can stay until we get this bit of roof framed and braced so what we'll do is you'll take one side on the drill i'll take the other side step on your plastic or put a bit of i've got another spreader somewhere you go in the middle so for now ed just put it just put it on the trestles come around like that put that side on the trestles but don't go on the mark yet just go roughly where we are then we'll all get into position now edge you've just got to be a little bit careful because you're holding you're holding it about that far out yeah yeah but it will because of this it will hold itself nice and steady yeah it's just going to feed it all together yeah i just think you need to straighten that screw up there see where it's kicking it over there just we'll pull that one out quickly just to straighten it up a bit that's it just go somewhere else that's it fine anyway lovely so you got a gun yeah everyone happy it's gonna spin mine all right everyone in position so what we're going to do is rattle it all together first yeah that's it use your hammer we've got the bottom now that's it you're going yeah going nice and gently towards the bottom until the points are the same at the top happy yeah yeah you're on your mark over there bro yeah we'll push it in and that's it it's all up to you that yeah yeah now you get your fixes yeah no tapping at the minute ed all right but it feels good didn't it you know the overall principle fitted good didn't it but it's a bit tight on the plates there and we're nice and plumb there and you know if you get it wrong you'd notice it straight away on there once we screw that top end that will pull it over a bit yeah when you put two ridges which are clamp everything together as well all right so we don't need to screw that because that will just push out again and we'll unscrew and push it up with the ridges when we put the ridge in yeah okay we'll get another pair at one end push the ridges through and it'll be happy days yeah two three two three two three two three so we need to get something to support that here two three two three two three seven five 52 mil so that hangs down 52 mil yeah so how would you do that how would you want to attach that to the the ridge um yeah we'll put a hang around it at some point but for now because you know it's only hanging down 50 ml yeah so the ridge bottom of the ridge hangs down further yeah so you've got you pack it off yeah so i would suggest that we put a piece of you know stout two but two across with a nice bit of iris be hanging off it like a plate so we screw through the back of the osb into to hold so those people osb would be flush with this here a timber across the back to hold the osb osb patrice is hanging down yeah yeah we'll mark a level line on it yeah put a bit of batten on it so it sits on there we can just position it just so it can be free until we got this pair of rafters in that will send they'll center and then we'll just stab our fixing through the back of the osb and that can stay there to a point or we can take it out afterwards and put the hang around it put the hang around it because it won't be in the way of the hanger because the hanger's going to be there yeah well you could put a hanger on but if you put the hanger on you're not exactly sure where the center is going to be yeah we have got a centimeter down there but we want it to be as per the rafters woman yeah look at that sky that's amazing isn't it so that's looking pretty good we just put a temporary batten on this one so it doesn't move all right right so the easiest way to do this one is get a string line around one side and plum it up with a stick turn the switch away you sure happy yeah all right that's good yeah we haven't got worry too much in a minute we just need to make sure we get the ridge in go the rafters in then we'll put a proper brace on straighten the first one up because bear in mind i'm going to put these plates on here from my fix through there it's going to straighten them up like t's they'll be like a t i'll be fixing all the way through there with the head plate of the stud wall yeah this is hard against my headplate so this can be flippy floppy but when we put a nice bit of 8x2 through it will be pucker [Music] so [Music] foreign [Music] do [Music] so you guys have done a real good job the guys have just made this roof and in fact they are learning the roofing square on my method of the roofing square and using the app so they're test driving the product for me and they've just done brilliantly i mean obviously both good chippies we've got ollie and you all know ed and they've done really really nicely this particular roof all out of 8x2 and i'm very fanatical about just how tight everything is and everything needs to be how well spaced out is how plumb the rafters are the selection of timber anyway they've done really well we'll have a look at that in a while we next need to do the ridges the scarf joint ridges which are going to run all the way through from this large gable to the party wall here and beyond and then from side to side so all the way through so they're on the bench we're going to set those out and get those done and that should be brilliant because we can cut them put them out the way they're all ready for when we need to stick them in so the very first job when i'm doing scarf joint ridges or scarf joint hips valleys whatever is making sure you pick out the timbers that will make a nice pair or make a nice ridge now one of our ridges is just about 12 meters long and the other one is around about nine meters long so i've got some stock lengths that are really long i'm going to put a joint immediately on the end of one and i'm happy with this selection of timber so this is a pair of timbers for one ridge this is a pair of timber for another ridge now what we're up against is lots of different things for example the higher the timber the more you get issues like this one here you can see how when i put my steel square over it rolls around and the same for that one and so what happens then is when you're using a circular saw and you're cutting across it's going to go over and down which effectively changes the cut a little bit so there will be some issues with binding and that sort of stuff so you can limit that eliminate that as much as possible by making sure the one that you cut first is as flat as it can physically be now you can take a small plane and just try and plane them off flat but you're reducing the width and all the rest of it the thickness and it might change things about but we're not worried about that we're site chippies we can get over anything that's what we do now i'm going to get myself my pencil out of my pouch just getting that pouch on might as well stick it on it's got all of my bits and pieces i need in it there we go these things are a godsend i used to hate wearing my pouch because it used to sort of like play on my back a bit but the the braces thing is pretty damn awesome i would recommend them highly recommend them fine so pencil stuck up there here are the basics of the scarf joint so you take the height of the timber in my case it's two two five and the joint is three times the height so that'll be in this case 675 millimeters that's the overall length of the joint i'm using the full end full length there's no benefit of cutting the end off there so that is the full length of the joint now we have to have how it basically works is we are doing this okay that's one piece and that's the other piece and there's a connecting pair of folding wedges so when you lock them together drive the wedges in it pushes this one this way and it pushes that one that way and you can get a nice mechanical fixing through these shoulders at that point and that gives you a really nice strong job they're not for joining floor joists together so a spanning member there for connecting timbers like ridges hips valleys that are fully supported but what it does do instead of just butting them together is giving you that really nice lateral restraint so that's the overall size of the joint now i've made my square similar to the size of our structural timber and i like to use that for the thickness of the joint okay and so what i do is we're going to come in a certain amount here in a certain amount there and then we're going to draw either side of that line to give us the two shoulders so we'll come in 40 mil there 40 mil there now if that was the center of the joint let me get a level so effectively what we're gonna have is we're gonna have one shoulder traveling this way and we're gonna have one shoulder traveling this way to make this nice locking joint i've got people all over the place it's amazing isn't it we also need to know where the center of that joint is so 675 half of that is three three seven that's the center of the joint let's just have a little line through there so we know where we're going and also mark a center line this way two two five one hundred and twelve and a half there so effectively what we've got is we've got one piece there and then we've got the other one here so that is the basis of of the joint i've i've connected this side of this block to that shoulder i've connected that side to that shoulder and i've basically drawn on either side then we take a square and we give ourselves a shoulder down the middle of course there which makes two equal ends we also square off these shoulders here this is why i particularly like a framing square because you can get a really nice marked up job that believe it or not is the simplicity of a scarf joint that is it now i'm obviously taking out this bit here and we simply cut that off and that's the only time we mark the joint because we use the timber to mark its pair so therefore if you cut that and it goes a little bit awry when you mark your joint you're going to follow that as well you'll use that circular saw to follow that so this is basically what we're going to take out i'll get my ear defenders on i'll pick up a circular saw i'll try and do it with an 18 volt this stuff's quite um wet let's give it a go i've got this one here we'll try this one first [Applause] uh [Applause] [Music] [Applause] now [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] foreign [Music] ah [Music] [Music] oh [Music] so once you've cut an end ready then you'll take the piece that's going to join too and we'll lay that on well in our case we're lucky because we've got this big long straight flat floor to work on if i didn't have this i'd be on the road i'd be on the drive in the back garden somewhere as long as there's somewhere long enough and straight enough to put it so if you can cop the end of that ollie and i'm going to take my end um over the top for a sec i'm going to come around here we'll lay out the back i reckon if we lay that out the back here all the way down let's keep it going that's it so we've got plenty of space in front of us if we spin this one right round i'll go over the top here lovely so what we're going to be basically doing is offering them on top of one another yeah you could probably lift that through the gable that one it will still be flat enough bit more that's good okay we'll just block this end up so what we're doing is literally marking it like a template but what we need to do is get a string line all the way through and make sure it's straight first that's the first job so ollie's just going to attach his rave line because it looks like sort of thing you go to a rave with it's nice and bright though mate why are you so tall everyone's so tall and if you can attach that around the end of there yep lovely and tight so all we're doing boys is literally we're just going to the line now and we'll just tap the middle in and out until we're happy so people have asked me before when they've seen me doing scarf joints they said why don't you just make a plywood template it's great you can make a plywood template and put it in the van and use it just for one end but what you're up against is timber even regularized timber can vary in height so you know working off with a bit like doing joinery we're working off what's going to be the top regardless of the bottom not matching slightly the other thing as well you may get a bit of a kick in the end of your timber where you hold that template and that's going to give you a dodgy joint if the timber is going off like that so whereas this we're looking at this member this ridge member as a whole now from end to end using this string so when we actually attach the two together we know that they were straight when they were marked so when we're cutting them okay so let's take this as the top or the face side if you like now you can see there's a little bit of play there so it's i'd say that that is fairly straight but what i want to do now is just give myself a little mark with a pencil this is only a little bit of experience of doing all these things over the years and i'm just going to take me so myself about five millimeters this way and i'm going to set my joint up like that so a weeny bit out of straight a weeny bit out straight because when i put it together it's going to under its own weight it's going to want to sort of do that a little bit and that will just help it not fall away too much not scissor away too much it certainly wouldn't support its own weight because of the length of it but this will mean that it's in some sort of compression so you can see now we've got a nice flat top they're nice and straight i'm happy with all of that and we will simply mark that one over that one with the elusive pencil areas so i'm going to just use my pencil it's nice and solid it's nice and flat and i'm just going to mark over the top and that's exactly what we want to cut we know it's going to fit because we're templating from the joint so if we were using that bit of ply a template for example i've tried it don't get me wrong of course that's the first thing i thought about i love a jig it didn't work it was a little bit out and i couldn't fathom out why and then i realized the complexities of timbers and bends and shakes that this is the way of getting it absolutely on so we'll cut that one out and that's half the joint finished do it in situ i'm not going to move it again whack your box under there mate lovely job it's useful having these super strong tool boxes and that's about the right height for me as well so let's get this circular [Music] [Music] uh uh there's part two now let's get them together when i started setting the joint out i talked about folding wedges but when i cut the joint i haven't allowed for the for those wedges at the moment but all it is is simply taking off the same amount from each one of these i can do that at this point there's no need for that bit to be there anymore and the reason i don't do it before is because i want to mark it all completely and these can just be fashioned out by hand we just cut that out quickly like this uh and the same on the other one [Music] [Music] [Music] and now that's ready to try together there you go ollie nice one mate it's such a luxury having a floor to work on many years ago we never put the floors down first we joist it out pitch the roof and we'll be falling around on bits of ply and all sorts of stuff but this is an absolute luxury it's like having a massive workshop right i'm just going to pull him up put the shoulders somewhere near where they should be and we will have ourselves a joint so the idea is now when we put our wedges in we knock them together it pushes the shoulder to the shoulder here the shoulder to the shoulder here and it's a fabulous job [Music]

Channel: Robin Clevett

Views: 67,859

Keywords: the big build, Robin clevett, the big build robin clevett, scarf join, scarf, scarf joint, cutting scarf joint, roof construction, joinery, roofing square, cutting rafters, roof rafters, roof construction step by step, how to be a carpenter, carpentry, ridge boards roof, nail guns, how to be a carpenter uk, roof rafters vs trusses, ridge boards, nail guns for framing, roof rafters lean to, roof rafters and ceiling joists, framing square, joint, scarfing, join scarf

Id: xzEa2BoSehw

Length: 31min 59sec (1919 seconds)

Published: Thu Nov 18 2021