How to Install External Cladding - Capel #18

so one thing I like to do before I put any cladding on so the final bit of the envelope is I like to go round in therefore there's any holes for example a cable hole I like to make sure I've filled those holes and the product I'm using is a HB 42 hybrid polymer I'll also be using this when I put my molded corner up it's a rebated section of timber I'll be using that behind there as well it gives it a little bit of flexibility one thing I'll also do as well when my bottom row of cladding goes on against my vent strip here it's designed to fit exactly over it so there's no space timber sometimes undulates so if there's any undulation there what's prudent is all also go along with a line of this here bottom rail cladding bed it against and then I'm completely sealed from those insects and other things that want to get up inside I've got a rebate in the back and what I'm going to do with this another line of polymer in here I'll set that up put my level on it if there's any slight deviation I can pull it in and out fix it and that polymer will go off and hold it exactly where I want it particularly like these guns get a hell of a lot more in them they're better value and more importantly we're not slinging away loads of empty plastic tubes the other thing is this will actually probably hold it in place while I go and get my gun so if you can just pilot this out for me to one there one there one there one there one there yeah then we can pull it in and out and we're not going to hit the screw so just so what we're going to do is we're going to fix the baton at one point for now [Applause] [Applause] let's go here even we need a gage stick now 14 hi so what I'm going to do is because I want my reveal to be dead true but more importantly when I cut 22 pieces of cladding for here I want to be able to use the saw with a stop and so they're all exactly the same size it eliminates me having to put one in market take it out and then potentially get some undulation so by fixing it where I want it I'll get myself a piece of batten that long I'll offer it in and I'll move this in and out and I'll fix it up so when I put my cladding on every bit can be exactly the same length saves time but moreover it will look perfect these are really plumb that call is really plumb so it will be parallel and square who's there Bob pencil [Applause] these screws are designed just for battening 77 millimeters long the absolute perfect length and they've got a really interesting head which is dead flat with a slight countless ink so it doesn't push the button apart without a countersink and obviously we rocks so it's good on moisture and for anyone who's interested in the color of this pattern this is a British Standard batten so on most sites especially new builds let's say we were doing roofing these are the battens that you need to use to comply and simply they are they've got less big knots which means they're fixed between rafters and you step on it it's not gonna break it's not just for strength is for safety also they also reckon that they're much much more uniform so that is 50 by 25 or 48 for 25 so even though I'm doing just a simple battening off job I like the activity levels of this material I've got a beautiful edge they just and it's about 10 percent dearer than the normal stuff so why not use it now the last thing I do with this piece of button is attach it to here and that stays there until I start the cladding when I start the cladding I'll take this off set the saw up to it my stop or my fence and that is my cladding link so I'm doing two jobs in one go what I like to do when I'm fattening a corner is that it barely one loose here and one loose here I'll simply preform them I'll get all my best lengths of battening for this job I'll fix them together now with timber frame you've gotta side with the skin coming through and you've got a panel butting into that skin what you need to do is make sure you've got the wide side over the skin that butted against the panel if you don't because we're only fixing through 25 mil so we're about 12 and a half in there you're going between the skin and the OSB it's nightmare Louis but you might catch the stud so what we do there is we make sure this section goes over that join so we're going to flip it around and it's going to run in there this one gets into the face and the end of the stud and that one misses that join [Music] so what would you really think as I become your trademark really good night yeah now tell me why it is that you're really suited up what defenders do you so I was doing a roof and I was around about 21 22 and I was working in someone's back garden putting up roof rafters and compliant the lady she stood behind me he I was working away and she was clapping really loud I sort of stopped I was doing I turn around and she said to me you can't hear me clap I don't know she went a clap is like a hundred decibels she said let's all you're using is well in excess of 100 decibels she said if you carry on like that you are guaranteed to get tinnitus or something a hearing disorder of some description and it was literally from that day forward I took her advice and shortly after that I was working for a guy who had tinnitus and he'd been a motor panel beater all his life and when we chatted about it he told me how much he suffered and he couldn't sleep nor it just resonated with me and literally I never took these things off and so I just used to wear the standard ones and then one time I got a set with an FM radio and because I'm working on my own quite a lot it was just really nice to have some music in the background or something else so that's why it's almost like an addiction for me I have to have them with me now I feel like they should be here if I haven't got Modern Life something's missing so that's the reason why I use them so it's safety and I was so quite like a little bit of talk radio while I'm working so you've got some swanky new ones it yeah so the observant viewers out there will always note if they used to have these blue ones now I've eat the life out of these and they've actually broken here and I've got duct tape which is there but they're really annoying me now because this one sort of hangs off here so they've they've sinned they're the end of their use unfortunately so they're gonna be retired so a treating myself to these at Christmas there by Helberg the top-of-the-range they feel really comfortable they're pretty strong again FM radio they tune in well and they seem to hold the signal okay if I knock the little button which on tunes it's no big deal and often I change channels as well I like certain show in the morning and something else in the afternoon but they do seem to hold the signal even get a signal inside here and I've got plenty of silver foil built into this building so the next step once we've set ourselves up we've got our saw setup we've got a great saw table there is cutting all the cladding so what I did before we start on the cladding is we make all the reveals up so we've got a thermo would reveal which is a rip with a rebate to make sure that the face is nice and tight there we've airtight it all the frames the trims go in we've routed all of those trims as well all the way around the edges so when the trim goes back you've got this nice little detail which matches the corner posts that we've put in we've got a cat door here which is made out quite queer MDF so we've cut right through the envelope of the building really neatly really tightly so there's no air around it it's no gaps and this try Koya door goes all the way through to the back of the plaster board on the inside you can still see the vapor barrier that's intact there so that was quite key to me to make sure that when I cut through I didn't hit the vapor barrier now I can literally glue it cut it off inside flush and just put a little bit of glue around there and then the actual cat door slides into that it's actually intended for a house like this which is airtight so it's got two flaps one on the inside one on the outside and it's magnetic as well so hopefully we won't get any air leakage or heat leakage more importantly there so this is the first row that's fixed of the cladding it's fixed over the vent strip which you'll see so the cladding that we've got is called thermo wood we've all soft wood cladding they don't want to be jammed up tight now this is really dry it's been stored in the garage and the manufacturers say that there should be a two mil gap between each one and that just allows for a little bit of expansion and contraction droughts during the year so when you've got a lot of moisture it's going to expand and in the summer it's going to come back if you start off and you Jam them tight like that the chances are if it expands it's going to want to pop the nails out it's going to want to pop the pins out so what we need to use also is a stainless steel pin and the reason for that is if you use a counter coated galvanized type one as it's driven through sometimes the coating is damaged and then you can get corrosion and the chances are it might pop off you can probably get away with it but I'm going to use a stainless steel pin so the gauge that I'm working to is a hundred and ten millimeters so what I've got is a gauge stick here it's hard to see probably but he's all marked up at 110 it's got a little tongue at the bottom there which basically means that once the bottom row of claddings in I slot that to there and that is the rebate every time now the best way of setting this out is to hook your tape on and 10 is going to be if it's 110 10 is gonna be 1122 and then I go around and I'll make sure I mark them all up really accurately you only want to do this once and then I have an arrow on the top which indicates which is up and which is down and I use that gauge stick for everything but before I did that when it was dark I set my laser up outside right in the middle from this corner to the farthest corner and I put a datum round and on my gauge stick I've got that data marked and so before I start any cladding I'll go around I just checked that the bottoms are all exactly where I want them and when you're running a horizontal cladding like this it's pretty critical that you get the first one level obviously but equally as you're going up because some of the Timbers have a tend to have a bit of a bend in them and this is quite solid material if it's a long length you can pull the bend out so you've just got to make sure you select the straight ones where you can't pull the bend out so when we did every panel and we set up a rod that rod sets the distance between our trims and so we put the door trim up dead straight and then we use this everywhere and any sort of undulation there we adjusted it that comes off there it goes on to the saw table against the blade we put the stop in and then we just cut a whole load of repeats and all this cladding now is ready to go up so there's no measuring once you've done that initial bit of work so these ones here that's fixed these are loose now I'm going to start by fixing the top one up to my mark you can see I've had to pull it up which is the expansion and then I'll just cite these ones up I like to run about four courses at a time level the fourth one up to the mark and then just space the other ones up a couple of MIL every time I like to fix these around about 30 millimetres up from the bottom which effectively pulls the tongue of that one the next one will pull the tongue of that one and so it's a nice a nice fixing [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] meow Oh is there a cat there meow here we have for this section of clad in our setting button so we just whiz that over to the saw remove our fence which is finished on that section we were doing we've got a piece of tricor a little bit of aluminium as a fence and that's what we're doing is pinching that between there checking the square off of our fence removes a bit then she's good there we have it then we can cut padding we'll test the first one [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] but there's a couple of knots here I know I can lose it [Music] so that's a little bit more of my cladding completed I've got a little way to go yet so I'm gonna carry on and get that finished so join us on skill-builder for another exciting episode of the cable build keep checking back [Music]

Channel: Skill Builder

Views: 370,084

Keywords: wood siding, cladding installation, installing shiplap, do it yourself, how to install shiplap, cedar cladding, how to install cladding, how to install cladding panels, how to install cladding on wall, how to install cladding around a window, thermowood process, thermowood installation, timber siding, tongue and groove cladding, maintaining timber cladding

Id: JNVSb-yBI80

Length: 18min 14sec (1094 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 22 2020