How to mark and cut hip rafters on a trussed roof. ***(with splayed birdsmouth cut)***

hello everyone so today i'm getting to grips with this um carport double carport uh roof as i said in one of my previous videos it's uh it's a four hippo so it's a double hit end there's a four foot run of trusses in the middle so it's hit each end um i've put in uh the two hips on the other side which i think i showed in my previous video and i've just done this other one this morning and what i'm going to do is i'm going to try and show you me fitting this last um hip in this one's slightly more interesting because as i said it's got a splayed cut in the plum cut at the bottom and it's also got a splayed cut in the plum cut the hand that hangs over this girder so it's it's you know it's it's not fantastically technical i really enjoy cutting hips and i think it's possibly one of my favorite parts of roofing i think it's i like hip roots i like the way they look it softens the end you know rather than the gable um if the hip if the roof is do a nice job of running in the hips they're absolutely gorgeous as well so i really do like hipped roofs i think they're very nice um so there's a couple of things to note on here um we've obviously got a girder trust here that's supposed to be a double bar just put a single in at the minute because it helps me nail through from the back and when when i've done it i should just slide the other girder in behind and nail it up and there's usually more than one set of these flat top girders in these but this is quite a small roof so they've only done one which is a double so what i'm going to do is just show you how i'm going to set this corner up it's all fairly sort of straightforward hip setting out stuff which i've done i've got um the length of the hip across the end the length of the hip end is divided by two and then that's set back down the run of the main roof and that's where your what i call common truss would come and then there's a sort of a mono trust that goes on the end which is a sort of common mono but in effect there the common rafters you have your common rafter in the runner and your end common rafter i think various people call them different things so i'm just going to show you um i've set those up i'll show you how i'm going to mark this corner out now right so as i said i've got uh my main what we've called a sort of common trussel and that's the same as there's i think there's four of those then you've got this next truss which is a girder truss it's got this flat element in the top this is a double because obviously it takes quite a lot of weight and then this uh this little mono coming in the end is what i would call a sort of common mono um basically the rafter cord across the top that goes up the top there is exactly the same as the rafter chord that comes down here well it isn't it isn't um because there's no ridge on this one um these go right up to the true center point of the the triangle of the roof whereas this one has obviously had to have this this um common rafter that goes up the top of this mono is how to have half the thickness of this material cut off it so it lines in i know it sounds complex but when these are made they make all these raft all these rafter cords exactly the same so technically that can't fit without cutting half the thickness of that off it so anyway then the other thing you'll notice is that so we have this girder here and then if i just pan down here you can see it has this sort of flying rafter tail this has got to be cut off because obviously this is where the hip intersects and they have to leave it on because obviously we can't put on afterwards so we've got to the main thing we've got to try and do is find the line of the hip right we've got the line of the hip between the center point at the top where the rafters meet and then the corn of the building here what we've got to do is we've got to put a line up there so that we can make a mark and cut that off so i'll show you what i'm going to do here is i think as i said we haven't got normally you'd have this four by two plate would come all through all the way through here and it would join with another four potato it would join with another four by two plate coming all the way through here we haven't got that in this instance and as you can see this oak beam is actually it comes past the line of the plate and that is why we're going to have a splayed cut in the in the um in the plum card of the bird's mouth so what i'm going to do is just show you that this is our actual striking corner point where the hip comes so i'm going to mark up the center point there and then show you how we're going to end up getting some marks on there to uh to start marking this hip up but more importantly first we've got to set a string line up so that we can cut off that flying rafter tail this is the this is the plate of the hip tend and this wide oak beam is the plate of the run of the roof and where the two meet is this point point here this is the actual corner of the roof so we know this is an equal pitch so the the hipped end is the same pitch as the run of the roof so we know that um this is going to be a 45 degree hip so this is our corner point as i said what i'm going to do here to mark it up is just put a 45 degree line on and that's our center line now we're obviously using a 35mm hip in this instance what i've got to do is split that in half so all i'm going to do is go 17.5 mil one side it's 35 the other now what i do is bring those lines back down and there you can see this this here this is now signifies our where our hip rafter comes down so what we'd normally do if we were having a normal normally a hip certainly here in the uk we we don't drop our hips we just cut the width of the hip across across the corner so what i'll do is put my square across there so basically this plate run all the way through we would now cut that off and then our hip there'd be a straight or square uh plum cut in the bird's mouth which should go up against there but because this is all exposed we're going to have a splayed cut so instead of the cup being square it's going to be splayed but what we've done now is we've got ourselves a measuring point which is here and then it's just a case of making sure that when we cut display we cut it going the right way now what i've got to do now is the next job we've got to try and do is set a line up that basically signifies the top line of the hip so that it goes across that flying rafter tail so that we can mark that and cut that now what i've got here is um i've cut this block here now this block here uh this measurement of this block is exactly the same as what they call a height above plate of the common rafter and i'll just show you that right so here we've got a rafter that's coming down we're going to pretend this is the common rafter it's not because it's on this girder but it's in exactly the same plane so what we've got here is what would normally be called a height above plate now excuse the fact that these have got no um rafter feet on them i don't know what happened here but somewhere between ordering them and then being manufactured but they didn't leave the rafter tails on the rafter feet on here so normally these would run through you can also see that there's a chalk line here which this um the edge of this rafter goes to that's because this oak beam had a slight bowie so i just pinged a line and put them to that anyway i'm waffling this this indicates that the outside edge of the plate and then this line here which is vertical is what we call the height above plate which is the height above the plate to the top of the rafter so what i've done this block i showed you a second ago that basically is exactly the same height from the plate to where the top of the rafter is so this is height above plate and this measurement has to be maintained above the plate all the way around so that the line of the roof that runs right even on the hip so let's take this back over to this corner and show you what we do with it over here so here we've got a block and you'll notice what i've done has got a screw in there so what i'm going to do is now screw this down we're keeping to our this is the line what we said is where the hip line is and that's the edge of the the end of the hip or the plum start of the plum cut so we're going to line that up exactly with all those marks and then what i'm going to do is screw that down beautiful right so we know that now the distance from here to here signifies the height above plate but also we know that this edge here is the outside edge of the the hip and the reason we're doing on the right hand side here is because the raft that we're going to be cutting off is on the right hand side as well so what we need to do now is i'm going to try and get my line i want to run a string line from this point which is that the top of the hip but it's the top of the hip but also the the right hand side of the hip i want to i want to now string a line from here to a to the point at the top where the two rafters meet the common raft and the end rafter so i'm just going to cut a tiny little nick in here i know it does drop it like a millimeter below the line but you know we're not gonna be splitting hairs here it's a hit roof with you know concrete pan tiles on so i'll do that and then we'll go up the top and show you where the line is for the top uh so what we're going to do now is going to go up to the top where these two common rafters meet so you'll see this would be what i call the end common rafter and this is sort of the common rafter in the last common rafter in the run of the roof so what we've got is this common rafter meets in the middle here and you can see i've already done this hit what i've now done is he's got a small off cut of the thickness of this hip material and i've kind of let's say rough it in but just kind of place it in the corner so it looks roughly like it's at 45 degrees and as you'll see i put a pencil mark each side so this signifies the uh the hip it's the same thing this is the hip material then what i've done is stuck a little nailing on that line so now what i'll do is i'll join the line from the bottom that i just showed you onto the top here and then that gives us the line of the hip so oh so as you can see now we've basically got again i know i said this is this is fractionally out it's a fraction low and a fraction but you know we're not splitting hairs here so as you can see now uh this is a high up plate and this line now signifies the top edge of the hip on the right hand side so again if i just jump up here you can see that now this line intersects with that pencil and i put on earlier so as we follow the line down look now it gives an exact point again because we said this line signifies the outside right hand side of the hit where this um rafter chord will strike on it we've now got a mark so all we need to do now is uh what i'll probably do here is just put a pencil mark following that line i might set a bevel up and then put a plum cut down here and we can cut that off and then there's nothing to stop us marking out our hip and our hip will drop in i'm just going to give the line a little flick just to make sure it's not catching on anything these trusses are pretty consistent with those ones so it's only just kissing me there so just put them up there put them up there and join those two together and then we'll just put a plunger on won't set the level for this one right let's get that cut don't need this line anymore i'll just move this board over a bit so lovely perfect so look at that hip now i thought i'd just quickly explain um why i've done that specifically i mean i did explain but you know you could say well i could have just left that longer put a nail in the side why'd i have to mess about you know cutting it off and cutting and notching um the reason i do it it's mainly habit and most of my roofing certainly when i was sort of being taught how to do it none of it was really done with mathematics or even roofing squares it was all pretty much direct measure done with sliding bevels you know spirit levels and stuff and the reason i do it like this again this gives you an opportunity to find the hip plumb cut absolutely accurately so as i said the outside corner of that block represents the top of the hip and then ultimately where those nails are sticking out where the two common rafters meet that also represents the top of the hip so what i've done many many times again if buildings are out square or out of level your stuff's not true you can rest the tip of the hip up on the top there and then the bottom of the hip on top of where is it going on top of the outside is there and then you can physically put a level up the side of the hip and that will give you absolutely perfect hip plum cut i'll just demonstrate that for you just needs to rest very gently on the top signifies the top of the hitch wrap hip rafter when it's cut so all i'll do is is a super super accurate direct measure measured and leveled hip flank there it is super accurate right now i've got my hit plumb cut and now it's just a case of taking some measurements and getting some cuts into this hip rafter i've nailed a small block in the same thickness as the um the hip material just to help hook my hook my tape on and i know this is not ideal so i'm doing it on my own but i'm going to now hook the tape in at the the top of where the common rafters meet and measure down to where this first um rafter cord hits and there'll be a measurement uh down to where we've got to cut the splay and then i'll carry on i'm measuring all the way down to where the plates are just spin that around a little bit all of that in i'm gonna have to alter that let's go try something else there get all that in here right let's get up there and give me that get that measured get the tape might help measure without a tape measure 82 and the measure went down eighty-six now all the way down to the bottom now the measurement down here three seven seven seven three seven seven seven three seven seven eight i'll just show you the where i've measured two down here so when i bought the tape down from the top and took the first measure to where that girder is that's preferred where my first birth mouse gonna be and then the measurement that i came down to the bottom here is this point here so we know that that is exact point and we know that that is the this measurement uh down from the top so we can that's a plumb cut will be that measurement down that is the point of the splay for the the plum cut part of the c-cut so we've got those measurements now we can transfer them onto the hip right we've got our length of hip here this is actually about the best one of the lot i've saved the best for last i've made it um i've i down it and made it so the crown or the bow is up i put a little cross on there and i also set this was the mark i put on early with the level when we were setting up the hip to to find the plum cut and i've set my roofing skirt square to that cut so what it's important here to make sure is that we're working to the right side of the hip when i mean the right side of the hip i mean the correct side of the hip which in this instance is the right side of the hip because that is where our measuring points are that's where our measuring points are from so it's on the right side of the hip where this rafter hits it and it's on the right side of the hip where it hits the plate at the bottom so it's really important to make sure that we get it oriented right so we're marking from the right side so first thing i'm going to do is put my double plunker on the top and that gives us something to work from because that's where our measuring point was from the top up there uh oh that's not the right pencil that's what i want [Music] [Music] what that's that lovely sort of compound um plum cut on the top of the hip and that now gives us our marking point to put the measurements that we made earlier down onto the hip i'll put just a tiny tiny nick in there just to keep the tape in the right place the first measurement was to the top of the rafter on the girder was eight eight two so i'll put the measurement here eight eight two measure down also from the top of the rafter to the flat part of that girder that is 88 millimeters so we'll put that on there as well now we've got the point for our seat cut that as well okay that's the first one and then the next one was three seven seven seven same again but this one isn't on the top of the rafter uh the hit rafter this one is actually uh at the base of the bird's mouth so it's slightly different so it's 377 so i'll just quickly show you down here and as i said the 3777 mark wasn't uh to the top edge of the hip rafter it was actually to the the bird's mouth or the back of the bird's mouth so what i had to do you kind of have to put a little bit of a raking arc in here so you can see that's three seven seven seven over a period because obviously our bird's mouth comes in here somewhere now what we've gotta do is uh find out our height above plate which is um in the hip plumb cut and what i'm gonna use is that block that we cut earlier to help me do that right so i've moved you down a little bit hopefully you can still see it here's our 377 mark which i said was a sort of arcing mark because it's the the back of the bird's mouth not the top of the rock so what i'm going to use here is we know we got um this is the gonna be a plum cut this is the hit plum cut and what we need to do is is this is our the block i showed you earlier i don't if i can see that yeah so this is the height above plate and so what i'm going to do is i'm going sorry if you can't really see this but i'm trying my best on my own i'm going to put this this corner to the top of the rafter here i'm going to slide it up to my the edge of my roofing square and then basically what i'll do is slide it up until these points meet i don't know if you can see this side if you can't i'm going to slide it up until the bottom edge of this which represents our height above plate as i said and the plumb cut here come together so in fact what i've got look when i take this off is i've got my bird's mouth there's the plum cut and there's my c-cup so now all i need to do is just extend that c cut out like that and we know that this plumb cut is right now it's just a case of making sure that we cut the splay going the right way and what i'll do is physically sort of almost offer this hip in just to double check right i'm i'm confident that uh the way that my splay is going because i kind of just offered the hip up and just roughly sort of pencil marked it so i know it's going the wrong way you know this display cut goes down this way it'll be just not disaster but you don't want to cut it the wrong way so i've set my saw over to 45 degrees i'm going to cut that out now oh nobody scaffold trying to do this so that you can see it i suppose we can get the square just trying to be careful on the scaffold so here the camera doesn't go flying that way all right [Music] [Music] nice lovely all right on to the next one right so i don't know if we can see that where's that out of show is he right let's do that so as you can see from this one uh i've scribbled the direction of display and we could get away with cutting a square cut on there but i think it looks better when it's splayed looks neater like you know what you're doing um so the splay goes the other way on this one and this is one of those instances having a blade left and a blade right in this instance is really helpful because um the blade right doesn't count the right way to cut this splay here whereas the blade left us so we'll just set that over to 45 and we'll cut that right set that back to there i'm not normally i can't do this i'm just trying to do it so that you can perhaps see it see if i can get it here as well [Music] beautiful right that's all those cuts cut let's offer it up and see and as with hips it may go in first time sometimes they just need a tiny little bit of teasing to get them in let's have a look my that is not bad yes oh yes let me release you here so here we go um really pleased with that so if we have a look on the bottom here look you can see that these are the points that we measured too look we've got that splayed card from the seat up under there look i'm completely guessing uh runs out of 45 degrees not bad there so that's that point as we move up the roof and there's a little bit we've got quite a nice as you can see there fits nicely down over the top that's the line we marked with the string line and then we've got the measurement right down here look sits nice and purply on top of this girder and then as we carry up to the top you can see that we've got a nice i mean these points you know i'm splitting hairs a little bit look so it all comes together sort of really nicely so actually you know as anyone that cuts hips in especially when they've got quite a few cuts in they'll know that it's nice when they fit in first time it's very satisfying as i said it's probably one of the reasons i like doing hips so much so really really pleased with that that doesn't need any adjustment whatsoever so now i'll just tack it up so that's pretty nice yes [Music] so really nice on the bottom absolutely welch off with that there we go let's just have another quick look at that just to show you i'm really pleased like i said you've got that lovely splay cut on the bottom sitting nicely down on the seat cut onto the another spline covers up look so we can see under there can we see that maybe i don't know um yeah fitting really really nicely down um lovely cut along there that was the cup i did by hand yeah and as we move on up we can see that cut lovely that hand cut that i put in there and then we've got the measurement right maybe just a couple of mil uh tall on the top there not going to get my knickers in a twist about that sits down nice on top of this girder and as i said this is a there's a double girder there's another one to go in here which we'll put in afterwards that we don't normally put them in afterwards they don't want to be in first but in this instance it just helped me because it's a small roof and then as we move on up there after now look in the top we can see all these points meet together really really pleased with that you know got some cracking little cuts in there look so yeah absolutely brilliant so now what happens is when we get back down the roof i'm going up the other end here what we now do is we know we know we've got our points right at the top and right at the bottom as we bring the camera down you should see that all of those trusses and those top chords all come into the same plane with that hip well we've got we've got this hip and then all of the jack rafters the trusses and the hip on the other end all come into the same plane but they are there's a there's a tiny bit of up and down but you know that's just the um tolerance in in the trusses so yeah all in all absolutely fantastic and that hit fits an absolute treat it's nice and straight and really all i've got to do now is mark out and start cutting some of these jack rafters in so let's get on with that so the next shot of the next job we've got to do is cut this last mono truss in and what i've got to do to be able to do that is cut this rafter cord off on the top now i don't i can't really go into it in too much detail about why i'm going to cut this where i'm at but the spacing of this is less than 600 so i know that i can just cut it tight to this vertical member and it will be in the right position if it was a bigger roof and the spacing between the middle uh common truss mono trust whatever you want to call it was bigger than 600 then i would have to take some different measurements but the reality is and i've got a crack on there really and get this job it's just pretty this afternoon so some of the details might be a little bit more sparse for the rest of this video so um that's my plum cut that i put on there and now i'm just going to cut the correct um compound uh jack cut top jack cut and then we can fit that on and then it's just a case of literally simple jack rafters which which you'd fit in a normal hit nice foreign yes lovely we've got some fixed points to work to here but we can't really alter how this truss has been made we've got our fixed point on the end here which is a we can't alter and then because the bottom cord of this mono has been cut to a certain length and then that has to meet the bottom cord of this girder trust and be flush at the bottom which is why i screwed that piece of timber on there earlier so that's a fixed point and ultimately when we come up to the top it's got to be as tight as it can against the face of this girder here and as you see here look it's slightly down there's absolutely nothing i can do about that i can't put this rafter up flush with the top of this hip here because it would make the bottom out so but again you know that is uh well within tolerance for a roof like this even if you're putting slate on this um there's no way you'd pick that out bear in mind there's going to be big hip tiles all the way down here so yeah so that is all of the trusses in um just to finish off what i'm going to be doing here obviously as the eagle eyed amongst you will know and i've got to put metal work joist hangers on all of these and then as i said there's a double that goes on this is actually a double girder so what i'll do is just ease that that temporary brace off and just slide it in from this side i won't bother with the putting these get manicures and twists about these top cuts these jack cuts on that so just slide it in and then gang nail the whole thing together so i'm going to get all those jack rafters now and then hopefully all that's going to leave me to do tomorrow is just as i said put these girders in and get the rafter feet sorted out in these detail soffit fascia and then ready for the roofers [Music] oh my gosh that's terrible absolutely gosh so i'm going to call that a wrap on this hip part of this video um as you saw got the hip in went really really well i'm really happy with there's a couple of things i'm not 100 happy with which i'm kind of going to show you i think i need to check the 45 degree stop on my saw so there's a pair there and a pair there that i would like to be better if i'm honest but it's not the end of the world you know they should really be tight but you know everything else you know in terms of my bird's mouth and everything everything else is pretty good um i haven't done a full bird's mouth on him as you notice because um basically the rafter cord of the truss was supposed to come all the way through which would have only been this 70 yard mill so it was just pointless putting a bird mouth on here because i had to cut it off anyway so i'll now just block it in between here and then bring the boarding up to close that off um extend the rafter tails rafter feet onto these here i don't know why they came like that as i said earlier so there you go in terms of cutting a hip um over a truss roof you know that's pretty much the gut of how i do it certainly um nice and straightforward um particularly a little bit more sort of going on really as i said earlier because he's got these blade cuts on but that's going to look quite nice detail when all this is picked out in black against the oak when you look up from underneath that look like quite a nice detail this has got open eaves on it so i'll just cut these line this through cut these rafter feet off put ply on the top close that off as i said that's why i've set that back a little bit so we put a noggin in there and that finishes that little flush so um yeah very enjoyable it's been a cracking little roof this one and i'll just finish off these bits and bobs tomorrow and i may do a another video just to stop finalizing it but really just wanted to do this video really just showing hopefully um how i've done that hip i hope it's come across sort of relatively coherently it's it's difficult when you're trying to film it on your own and get particular details in and particular shots but also at the same time in the back of the mind thinking you've got a certain amount of work done during the day so i hope this is of use for somebody thanks for watching

Channel: The Tall Carpenter

Views: 102,713

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Id: A-_wQlpqL1s

Length: 40min 58sec (2458 seconds)

Published: Mon Jun 14 2021