HOW TO SCREW WOOD FRAMING

hello my name is Ben welcome to Vancouver carpenter this is something that I think a lot of people are going to struggle with if you're really new is you're trying to screw the piece of wood in and it never winds up quite where you want it and there's some basic tricks that US carpenters use to help make that happen so the first thing that's gonna really help you out is that you've got accurate cuts on your framing so you want your framing to be a little bit snug so you have to gently tap it into place but you don't want it to be so much that it pushes things out of square or out of level but just that it sort of Jen gently sits there in place where you're putting it so for putting your regular framing together I mean we're just using an impact driver which is really useful and the reason that impact driver helps so much over a traditional drill as it impacts it forces the drill bit into the tip of the screw and that stops it from wanting to slip out as easily so positioning is key here so how I like to start is I'll start by putting a toe screw in here and I'm actually gonna have the lumber a little bit out now not a quarter inch or 3/8 like I'm exaggerating but just about a big sixteenth to an eighth okay so when starting your screw now I want this basically on a 45 degree angle into the wood but that's kind of hard to start it so when starting I'm starting about 3/4 of an inch down from this line here and I'm gonna angle my drill like this so closer to parallel with this top plate I'm just gonna wait till it bites like that and then I'm gonna tilt it back to 45 degrees so the reason we start back is as it starts ratcheting in its gonna pull it forward right flush to where I want it to wind up so of course I neglected to do something because I don't usually put a square line here because I can just see it square with experience but you should have a line so that you can see if it's square like I've put on this one so that square I'm gonna quickly mark it and now we're just going to come in from the side and do the same thing I'm gonna push the stud this way a bit overcompensate by about an eighth of an inch and then let it go back there it is now I'm gonna put one more back here and because there was already two screws in place I didn't need to overcompensate because I already can't move it and just in case it's not exactly where you wanted it it is possible to fine tune it by 1/16 or so like this but for what you're doing maybe it doesn't need to be that perfect anyways so next level your stud down if you don't have a mark on the floor yet now this is the first one I'm putting in so I don't have a level mark so that's good mark it out so it's basically a wash rinse repeat of the same thing I've got my line here I'm gonna tap this over so it's about an eighth of an inch over start with my drill an inch up and not on the angle I want now that it's bit correct it and it's still just a hair proud so I can give it a little tap one in the back side over here oh and it pushed it way off my line so I'm going to back it off a bit [Music] yeah we go okay so I've got my stud in and it's totally plumbed and now I want this next one to wind up totally bum so I can now just measure and I have 19 and 5/16 I'm going to measure it down here 19 and 5/16 before I screw it in it never hurts to check and there must be a bow in the stud so it's not level where I need it to be level yet so I'm gonna tap it over a little more you'll see why this is important in this case in a bit okay that is good so the reason I'm fussing so much here is normally I wouldn't plus so much just over a stud but there's actually going to be a little opening here for shelves so these have to be totally perfect independently of the rest of the wall so because this is an opening for shelves the next thing I need to do is cut something that fits between here and here and this has to be perfect so I can't use friction to my advantage it has to be so perfectly cut that it won't stay perfectly put so right here is 17 and 3/4 and that's exactly what it has to be so now as you can see I've got my perfectly cut piece of wood because if I cut it with a little bit of friction it's gonna push these out and I'm gonna bow out my opening it's not gonna be the width I want and it's not going to be plumb so now I've got this thing and it's not staying still and how am I going screw that in easily especially once the ratcheting starts shaking it down so here's how we do this so I'm gonna start a screw on this side and it's going to poke out about a sixteenth of an inch I'm gonna start a screw on this side and it's gonna poke out a sixteenth of an inch so now I've got these handy-dandy little nubs from the screws that are acting as little claws I kind of hold the wood where I want it and I'm gonna get this perfectly in place and in this case I put it flush and it stayed flush because I am screwing from the back this time it's nice and square right where I want it and I'm gonna add one more here check your work it's good alright next go and pick the strangest corner of the jobsite to close your video up because after all this is a jobsite not a film set so thanks for watching Vancouver carpenter I hope you got some helpful tips out of that they're gonna help you get your framing nice and square and level it's just a couple of basic things I do so thanks for watching see you in the next video

Channel: Vancouver Carpenter

Views: 81,431

Rating: 4.9519649 out of 5

Keywords: wood, framing, carpentry, building, tutorial, homeowner, DIY, do it yourself, screw, how to, reno, renovation, remodel, wood frame, drywall, fast, easy, drill, impact, nail, nails, level, best, plumb, square, cut, saw

Id: JCSawRm3VcU

Length: 7min 39sec (459 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 14 2018